#rats mice and guinea pigs are all allowed though | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

katalyna-rose · 4 years

Text

Kat’s Rat Shopping List

I’ve gotten a few requests for a shopping list of my rat setup (tagging @collapseofthesky because they requested this, specifically, but I’ve had a few others message me), so I thought I’d give it a try and also add a few explanations for why I do some things the way I do. As such, this is going to be a very long post and is therefore under a cut. There will be a basic shopping list without all the explanations at the very end of the post under TL;DR if you don’t care about the rest or whatever.

I had a lot of fun with this and spent way more time on it than I meant to, and might be open to doing more of this kind of thing in the future.

Cage

First up, the cage. Obviously. I’ve said it before but it’s a Double Critter Nation and a Single Critter Nation with the side panels removed and zip tied together. These are sometimes sold in pet stores (the locally owned pet store I prefer has them in stock). I bought mine online because of a really good sale, but you can sometimes get really lucky and find them for resale on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for super cheap. I love this cage because the whole front opens up and that makes it super accessible and easy to clean, decorate, and get to my pets wherever they may be. It’s also huge!

US minimum for rat cages is 2 cubic feet per rat, with a minimum of two rats because rats cannot be housed alone as they are extremely social animals. No, human companionship is not enough, rats need same-age, same-species companionship at all times. Please be aware, as well, that minimums are not the ideal to strive for. Whatever space you intend to dedicate to your rats, fill it! Fill it all up! And if you don’t have enough space for a large cage, don’t get rats. My setup, with the Home Depot/Lowe’s large cement mixing tubs in the bottom, is roughly 45 cubic feet of space. If we’re looking at minimums, this means I could house 22 rats! There’s no way that 22 rats could ever actually be comfortable in my setup. It would be insane, chaotic, and extremely messy. So why would 2 rats be comfortable in 4 cubic feet? They wouldn’t. More space is always better, hard stop.

Also remember that wire cages with bar spacing of no more than an inch for adult rats and no more than half an inch for small or young rats is a must. Tanks are absolutely not recommended for rats due to poor ventilation, which will cause respiratory issues and allow ammonia to build up much faster.

Bedding

This is different from nesting. Yes, it is. Bedding is the substrate used at the bottom of the cage or on shelves to catch errant droppings and urine, and is generally left where it is by the rats because they have no interest in it.

My main bedding is pine wood horse stall pellets. They are as dust free as the alternatives like shavings or paper pellets, and combine the best aspects of both those types of bedding with the ammonia-neutralizing effects of wood shavings and the compact, easy-to-clean nature of pellets. I love them. I also get them super hilariously cheap from Tractor Supply Co, so despite it being a little bit of a drive for me (about an hour round trip) the fact that it’s half the price of the next cheapest option more than makes up for it. I buy a bunch all at once and currently have a few bags left in my trunk because I didn’t have enough closet space for them. It’s great stuff. It crumbles when wet so it helps me keep track of how much and where they’re urinating, and it’s easy to spot clean those areas in between deep cleans.

When choosing a wood, if that’s the route you want to go, remember to check what is safe to use. Pine is only safe when it’s kiln-dried, since it contains fragrant oils that can cause respiratory issues in rats, mice, and hamsters. Some people will advise you to stay away from it entirely, and that’s fine, but since pine is often the cheapest option it’s not always viable. Aspen is a safe wood, but harder to find in pellet form and slightly more expensive as shavings. I use aspen shavings in my litter trays. Cedar wood is NEVER safe, no matter how it’s treated. I don’t think cedar is ever safe no matter what for any animal it’s marketed to, actually. It’ll cause respiratory distress in rats, mice, and hamsters, and guinea pigs and rabbits should never be on shavings regardless though I’m pretty sure they’ll still experience respiratory distress. The oils naturally in the wood are not safe, do not use cedar. Also make sure your bedding is as dust-free as possible, also for respiratory reasons. If you have a small animal, their respiratory system is extremely delicate, and that’s just a fact of pet ownership that you should have learned before getting a pet when you were researching how to care for it.

Since I have two shelves in my cage and they are both shallow to the point of not even having a lip (Critter Nation’s only flaw is the trays that come with the cage), I line my shelves with fleece over an appropriately sized bath mat. Fleece makes a great shelf liner, but I don’t recommend using it in the entire cage because it gets dirty really fast and most rats will chew it up, so you’ll both be changing it every other day and going through it super fast as it is destroyed. However, it makes great shelf liners, especially when very little of the shelf is actually available to the rats like in my setup, where the shelves are mostly covered in other things. Remember that fleece must always be lined with an absorbent layer underneath because the fleece itself allows liquid to pass right through it. That’s the point: the fleece stays relatively clean and dry while the absorbent layer takes all the gross stuff away. Towels are generally not recommended for this because rats can get their nails stuck in the fabric and rip them out, which is painful and distressing for the rat and also you. Anything super absorbent with a really tight weave will do lovely here, hence the low pile bath mats I use. I get them for one or two dollars at Ikea and wash them every week. I keep several around to rotate through. The fleece I use is also a fleece blanket from Ikea for a couple bucks that I cut into four sections because that rendered it the perfect size to tuck around the shelves. This makes my bedding extremely cheap, and that makes me happy because I can spend that money on enrichment instead.

Nesting

This is the material that the rats like to push around, dig in, and sleep in. It’s important to provide soft but preferably absorbent materials for the rats to nest in because it’s enriching, comfortable, and helps them regulate body temperature. Multiple types of nesting are recommended for enrichment purposes. Rats like texture! I use unscented, unlotioned tissues as a main nesting material for within their hides because they’re cheap, safe, absorbent, and soft. I bought 30 boxes of 100 tissues each for super cheap online, but you can also buy dollar store tissues or whatever you have access to. Just make sure they don’t have scents or lotions, because those are not safe for your rats’ delicate respiratory systems. The empty boxes (plastic removed) can also be given for the rats to chew up and play in, or you can save them up to DIY some fun toys later, which is what I’m doing.

I also have two dig boxes, which will also go under the enrichment section. The bins I got for cheap from Target, but obviously you can get bins wherever you want to get bins. Just measure to make sure they fit in your cage properly. The only dig box I want to talk about in this section is the hay box, because the dirt is not actually a nesting material but rather an enriching one. So, hay. My girls love this stuff so much that they drag it all over the cage to shove it into all their sleeping areas. They build actual rat nests in the box, tunnel through it, stash food in it, shred it for fun, and generally spend as much time as possible with the hay. I use oat hay for the seed heads that provide additional enrichment and snacks because the rats have to get to the seeds in order to eat them. If you are feeding a low-quality diet to your rats, do not use oat hay because they’ll fill up on seeds instead of eating their nutritionally-balanced food and that is not good. My rats love their food so much that the seeds are a sometimes snack that I don’t need to regulate because they do it themselves. Any good quality hay will do for a hay box, however, and timothy hay tends to be the cheapest option. Just make sure it’s not super low quality, because low quality hay tends to be dusty. As mentioned previously several times, rats have delicate respiratory systems and dust is bad for them. I buy my hay from Small Pet Select because I like supporting small business, ethical business, and businesses that provide excellent products. They are, however, primarily a rabbit site. I keep hoping they’ll expand the other sections of their shop. Also, make sure your rats aren’t trying to eat the hay. This is highly unlikely because rats are smart and know what’s edible and what isn’t, and hay is not edible for rats. If for some reason your rats are eating hay, do not give them a hay box.

Other nesting options I’ve used in the past include cut up bits of fleece, cut up old clothes you might have lying around, and generally just bits of fabric. Just remember to change out/wash them regularly. Ammonia will build up, and once again that’s bad for your rats’ respiratory systems.

Hides and Hammocks

Rats are prey animals. Surprise! As such, they need plenty of places to hide and feel safe. Rats love small, dark places to rest in. Much like many introverted humans, myself included! Make sure to include plenty of hides all over the cage. Variety is excellent here for enrichment reasons. My rats absolutely love Space Pods! Lixit makes the ones I use, but there’s also a brand called Sputnik that’s basically the same thing. I’ve never seen them in stores, but they’re all over the internet. For rats, make sure you get the large size. Honestly I wish it was larger than it is, but oh well. The girls love it anyway. I kept getting sent only the bottom halves, which is why I have two half space pods in my cage. I got a refund or replacement on both because it’s not what I paid for, but, like… I received the usable half, so I’m gonna use it. The girls don’t like to sleep in them without the covers, but they’ll hang out in there and clean themselves, and they climb through them to get from one spot to another.

In addition to the space pods, I also have various other hides. Lixit also makes a pill-shaped plastic hide that I keep on the shelf over the dirt box. They used to use it a lot more than they do now, and I’m not entirely sure why. Even so, they still use it! I also have a woven grass tent that they enjoy, and a cork log. Neither of those are really for sleeping, but they do hide in them sometimes and generally like to hang out there.

Hammocks are great, and also available in wide variety all over the internet and in stores. My favorite banana hammock was just retired, but I intend to get another. The girls loved it and so did I! Hammocks come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and can pull double duty as both a place to sleep and a way to break up the cage so there aren’t any dead drops where your rats can fall from a height and hurt themselves. Fill your cage with hammocks! All the hammocks! Support small creators by buying homemade hammocks! Learn to make them yourself! They’re cheap and easy! Hammocks are great.

Enrichment Part 1: Levels

Rats are climbers. Rats need vertical space as well as horizontal space. Rats are sometimes clumsy idiots who fall off of things. As such, all vertical space must be filled with all kinds of fall breakers. As mentioned before, hammocks are great for this. So are ladders, bridges, ropes, and that Ikea tie hanger I have strung across the back of my cage. If your rat falls from anywhere in the cage, make sure there’s something to catch them!

Also make sure there’s something to do on all the levels of the cage, even if that thing to do is just get from one level to the next. Rats are dexterous and adventurous. Ramps are boring because they’re easy. If you have sick or injured rats, absolutely use ramps! Accessibility matters! If your rats are of sound body, however, make them work for it. Lava ledges and bird perches make great alternatives to ramps. Screw them into the cage walls and watch your rats hop around! They love it. Ladders are also fun, especially if they’re not used the way ladders are meant to be used. Suspend them from things, put them at weird angles, just make sure they’re secure. I get a lot of my levels from the bird aisle at the pet store (or virtual pet store). Be aware that sometimes your rats are going to prefer to climb directly on the bars of the cage. That’s normal! The bars are there, so the rats will climb them. That’s all there is to it!

Climbing frames like the wooden wine rack from Ikea that I have in the bottom of my cage are also good to have. My girls love it, and it does double duty as a chew toy.

Enrichment Part 2: Chewing

Contrary to popular belief and old science, rats do not actually require chews to keep their teeth trimmed. Rats trim their own teeth by bruxing, or grinding their teeth together. This does not, however, negate the need for chews. Rats like to chew! What your rat likes to chew best is entirely subjective. Some rats love wood and sticks, some rats will always chew fabric over anything else, some rats will never chew fabric. Every rat is different! Try as much variety as you can and keep stocked up on the things your rats like best. My rats really like woven grass, and I try to keep at least a couple different kinds around for them. I keep a grass mat on a shelf that they like to pull apart, and the woven grass tent will likely have a short lifespan, as well. There’s a woven grass tunnel thing that they’ve put into the dirt box and are slowly but systematically shredding. My girls also like willow sticks, so I’ve got a couple hanging toys of willow that are very slowly being chewed because there’s so much else to chew. The wooden bridges see a fair bit of chewing, and even the lava ledges get chewed on the edges. My girls also love destroying rattan and wicker balls. I bought a bunch of them for cheap and toss a new one in there about every week or so. They love them. I also got a couple things from Small Pet Select like a pine cone, a bit of natural loofah, and a dried okra pod. So far the okra pod has seen the most action and is shredded halfway to infinity. I think they like that it has seeds inside, but the others get chewed sometimes, too. There’s enough variety in my setup that everything lasts a decently long time. Except the rattan balls.

Enrichment Part 3: Digging

As much as rats like to climb, they also like to dig. That’s why it’s highly recommended to have a dig box. Safe substrate is important here. If you’re going with potting soil, make sure it’s just dirt and doesn’t contain any fertilizer. Personally, I found potting soil to be kind of annoying a little expensive. I prefer coconut soil. I use Exo Terra terrarium soil, which is sold in compacted blocks that you have to hydrate. I use two thirds of the recommended water because my rats don’t need humidity. I use three blocks per dig box, and replace the soil every month because the girls will do their business in it sometimes, leave food in it, leave bits of tissue or hay or various shredded chews. Basically, the dirt gets dirty in bad ways and needs to be replaced sometimes. It can also grow things if left too long because of the humidity (which will be a problem regardless of the type of substrate being used). So every deep clean, both dig boxes get emptied, wiped out, and refilled.

The hay box gets an honorable mention here, since it pulls double duty as both nesting and digging. Triple duty, really, since it’s also a forage toy.

Enrichment Part 4: Misc

Yeah, I didn’t know what category to put this under, so here we are. Litter boxes! No, seriously, this counts as enrichment. Training your rats, whether it’s to do tricks or just poop where you want them to, counts as enrichment. Rats are incredibly smart! They’re at least as trainable as the average dog, especially if they come from an ethical breeder who breeds for health and temperament (let me just slide a reminder not to buy live animals from pet stores that source from highly unethical breeding mills in right here; please support ethical breeders and rescues), and will happily take to any training. Remember that positive reinforcement is the only ethical way to train an animal. Treats are great for this, and your pet will love you even more because every living thing loves food. My rats actually didn’t require much training for their litter trays. Make sure that whatever you’re lining the litter trays with is not the same as their normal bedding. If you’re using aspen shavings in the main cage, use pine in the litter trays, or literally any distinct safe bedding. I use shavings in my litter trays and pellets in my main cage. This helps the rats distinguish the litter trays from the rest of the cage and makes it easier to identify where to do their business versus where not to do so. When you first put the litter trays in, just go in at least once a day and toss any poops you see into the tray. If you see your rats using the litter tray, offer a treat while they’re doing so. Rats are extremely clean animals and they like their mess contained as much as you do. It would not be possible for me to only deep clean once a month if I didn’t have litter trays that I clean out about twice a week (or more, if necessary) to get rid of the majority of the mess and smell. I’d be deep cleaning every two weeks at least without them, so the litter trays are a great investment overall. Your rats will never be perfect about using them, because they’re still rats, but they’ll help a great deal.

Also under this section are forage toys! Do not feed your rats from a simple bowl, it’s boring and encourages stashing, which means you’ll never know when they’ve actually run out of food because they’re just going to pick it up and take it somewhere else and have a great big hoard that you’ll find on deep clean day. You can definitely scatter feed, that’s enriching as well because it makes the rats go looking for their food, but forage toys are the ultimate way to feed your rats, I think. I mostly don’t get my forage toys from the small animal aisle. I do have one that’s small animal specific, a little ball that they roll around the get the food out. I also have some marketed for cats, and some marketed for birds. Having multiple kinds is really helpful. I’ve also noticed that while some stashing still occurs, it’s greatly reduced. I refill the toys as they empty and everyone’s happy.

Food/Water

What you feed your rats is extremely important, obviously. Many commercially available pellet foods marketed for rats are actually extremely not good for rats. The same is true cat and dog food. It is a sad fact that the companies that make these foods tend to be far more interested in their bottom line than the health of your pet. As such, do your research! Always do your research! Know what’s in the food and what your animal should be eating, and try to match those two things up as closely as possible. In the UK rat owners typically will avoid pellet foods and prefer homemade mixes for these reasons, but making your own mix is not always feasible and can be tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing. Most US rat owners tend toward pellets because it’s a lot harder to mess up the balance of nutrients when it’s done for you. Also, the UK does not have Oxbow, which is one of the most popular brands of healthy rat food. It’s the brand that I use, and my rats adore it. Mazuri is another popular and healthy option, but my rats prefer Oxbow over anything else. I kind of want to try making my own mix at some point, but I’m not sure I ever will. Like with most of my rat supplies, I buy food in bulk because it’s cheaper. A 20 lb bag of Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat food runs me about 40 bucks. Be careful to buy adult rat food, even for baby rats, because any food that says Young Rat and Mouse is not going to have the appropriate balance of fat and protein even for young rats. Adult food will do just fine for babies, too. If you want to add some extra protein to their diet, try a boiled egg or bits of meat every now and then, but it’s probably not necessary as long as they’re getting enough food and some extra fruits and veggies now and then. If you want to try making a mix, do so much research before you try it, and make sure your ingredients are good quality.

Rats should also receive other foods in addition to their pellet or main food. Rats are omnivores and love fresh veggies, fruits, milk, eggs, and meat! Make sure you research safe foods before giving them to your rats, as not everything is safe. If you adopt your rats from an ethical breeder, they should have resources available to you on what’s safe and healthy. If you rescue, you can still reach out to established ethical breeders for tips and tricks, or find lists online as you do your research. Some veggies are only safe cooked, some parts of certain plants are unsafe while others are safe, and some foods are only safe for males or females but not the other sex (citrus and mango are the ones I remember that fall into that category). Just do your research and try to keep processed foods away from your rats. Sodium is also not good for them. Any raw meat or fish should be frozen and then thawed before being fed to your rats to kill any potential contaminants. Like always, do your research first!

Rats obviously require water, as well. Water bottles tend to be the most widely accepted way to give rats water, because they don’t evaporate and are easy to keep clean. I, however, have a terrible time with bottles, and they always leak or break. Thus, I have opted for water bowls instead. The girls love them more than the bottles I’ve used in the past, and they’re a little more enriching, as well. The only downside is that I have to wash them out daily. But since I spot clean daily anyway, I don’t mind at all.

First Aid Kit

Any responsible pet owner should always keep a first aid kit around, no matter what kind of pet they have. Pet owners who have particularly vulnerable pets should especially be careful to make sure they have a well-stocked first aid kit. This should include single-use sterile syringes without needles, gauze pads, vet wrap, infant/toddler ibuprofen or acetaminophen, medical tape, cat nail trimmers, and probiotic powder like Benebac. But most importantly, it should include the phone number and location of a vet that will see and treat rats. Have a vet picked out that you have confirmed will see and treat your pets BEFORE getting pets. If an emergency arises and you’re suddenly scrambling for a vet last second, not only do you waste precious time getting your pet the help they need but you may find out too late that the nearest rat-friendly vet is too far away. That means your pet will suffer unnecessarily and you are an irresponsible pet owner. Hard stop. If there is no vet within reach that will see rats, do not get rats. Rats will require a vet trip at least once in their lives, since all rats are extremely prone to respiratory illness. Sometimes this happens for no reason at all, because all rats possess a bacteria in their respiratory systems called mycoplasma. There’s no way to get rid of it and nothing you can do about it except make sure your rats live in a clean, well-ventilated environment with safe bedding and materials. Even with all this, sometimes your rats will get sick. That’s normal! Just make sure you can take care of them when it happens. As such, make sure you have a vet fund at all times of at least a couple hundred dollars, in addition to a well-stocked first aid kit and the name and location of an appropriate vet.

It’s also beneficial and enriching to syringe train your rats. What this means is putting a liquid treat like baby food, yogurt, or apple sauce into a syringe and giving it to your rats. This teaches the rats that the syringe is a good thing so that if you ever need to give them medicine from the syringe (rat medicine tends to be oral and dissolved in a liquid solution, so those needle-less syringes will be necessary) they’re more likely to take the medicine with minimum complaints.

Storage

Maybe it goes without saying, but you also need places to put all of the things for your rats. Keep your first aid kit in a box to itself so you always know where it is, and organize your supplies appropriately. I really like Ikea bins for my bedding and food and other dry bulk items, and I keep a lot of my smaller stuff on a shelf at the foot of my bed. Work with the space you have, and plan appropriately.

And thus concludes this extremely long explanation of the bare basics of healthy rat living. Really, this is the bare basics and not even remotely comprehensive of the options available. Be creative when shopping, and definitely look outside of the small animal aisle at your local pet store because it will not contain anywhere near all of what you need.

TL;DR: A Basic Shopping List of My Specific Setup

-Double Critter Nation

-Single Critter Nation

-Zip ties

-2 Large sized cement mixing tubs from Home Depot/Lowe’s

-Pine wood horse stall pellets

-Low pile bath mats, enough to rotate while washing

-Fleece blanket, cut in quarters to fit shelves, enough to rotate while washing

-Bins to hold digging substrate

-Oat hay from Small Pet Select or Oxbow

-Exo Terra coconut fiber terrarium soil

-Lixit Critter Space Pods, large

-Lixit Small Animal Hideout

-Woven grass mat

-Woven grass tent

-Woven grass tube

-Rattan/wicker balls, lots

-Willow stick hanging toys

-Natural loofah

-Sanitized (and therefore safe) pine cone

-Dried okra pod

-Dog ropes

-Wooden bendy bridges

-C-clips, both the kind meant for shower curtains and smaller ones marketed for kids, for hanging things

-Hammocks. All the hammocks. From everywhere hammocks are sold.

-3 (sometimes 4) Ware Scatterless Lock-n-Litter Small Animal Litter Pan, Regular

-Ikea tie hanger

-Ikea wine rack

-Ikea storage bins

-Forage toys

-Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat food

-Ceramic (and therefore tip-proof) water bowls, and/or bowls that can be attached to the cage

-Sterile single-use syringes without needles

-Gauze

-Vet wrap

-Medical tape

-Infant/toddler ibuprofen/acetaminophen

-Cat nail trimmer

-Probiotic powder like Benebac

-The phone number and location of a rat-friendly vet

-A vet fund of at least a couple hundred dollars

A final note before the end: Always remember to do your research before getting pets, do not get pets if you cannot provide a good life for them with MORE THAN the bare minimum requirements for safe and healthy pets, do not buy live animals from pet stores unless it’s part of a rescue program, don’t take the word of just one person as law, don’t be afraid to ask questions respectfully, and always seek new ways to improve your pet care. This has been a PSA from your friendly small animal enthusiast.

#fancy rats #pet rats #my rat setup #rat care #rat care advice #pet care #long post

39 notes · View notes

connect-chemicals · 3 years

Text

What is Phenoxyethanol

What are other names for Phenoxyethanol?IS PHENOXYETHANOL SAFE IN SKINCARE?Is Phenoxyethanol Vegan?1. PREVENTS MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS2. ACTS AS A STABILIZER3. INCREASES THE SHELF LIFE OF PRODUCTS4. HAS VERSATILE USESAFETY CONCERNS SURROUNDING PHENOXYETHANOLWhat we know about Phenoxyethanol in pregnancy and breastfeedingGeneral safety info about Phenoxyethanol from CIR

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used in many cosmetics and personal care products. You may have a cabinet full of products containing this ingredient in your home, whether you know it or not.

Chemically, phenoxyethanol is known as glycol ether, or in other words, a solvent. Connect Chemicals GMBH is the manufacturer and distributer of phenoxyethanol.

It is an organic compound with the formula C6H5OC2H4OH.

where phenoxyethanol is used?

Various high-end cosmetics brands use Phenoxyethanol preservatives in their products

It commonly helps in the prevention of bacterial growth, stabilizes product, and lastly strengthen shelf-life

On the good part, cosmetic products containing Phenoxyethanol preservative can be used on the skin for daily purpose

It also works as a great ingredient with another preservative

Preservatives

2-HYDROXYETHYL PHENYL ETHER, 2-PHENOXY- ETHANOL, 2-PHENOXYETHANOL, 2-PHENOXYETHYL ALCOHOL, ETHANOL, 2-PHENOXY-, ETHANOL, 2PHENOXY, ETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOPHENYL ETHER, PHENOXYETHANOL, and PHENOXYTOL

What it does

Fights bacteria. Most personal care products are made with a lot of water and a variety of nutrients (consider all of the natural oils and botanicals in Honest products!) which makes an incredibly hospitable breeding ground for microorganisms. What’s worse — the product might smell and look just fine, but be swarming with bacteria or fungi that are dangerous to your health. Effective preservatives are vital for ensuring safety!

Why we use it:

Phenoxyethanol is not used for its effects on the skin but rather is included in skin care products as a preservative against bacterial contamination.

Prevents bacteria: It’s antimicrobial and highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria, and yeast in a product formula.

Prolongs product shelf life: The use of preservatives enhances the safety of products and prolongs the period of which a product can be stored.

Is stable: Gerstner says phenoxyethanol helps with product stability because it doesn’t react with other ingredients, air, or light.

Has versatile use: According to Gerstner, it’s effective at protecting against pathogens in a wide variety of products.

Phenoxyethanol has been deemed safe to use in skincare and cosmetics when used in low concentrations (below 1%). Both the FDA and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review consider this preservative safe to use in low concentrations. Even the European Commission of Health and Food Safety gave phenoxyethanol a safe rating.

Even though it is considered safe and has a valid reason to be included in skincare products, you’ll want to keep an eye on products using this ingredient.

Phenoxyethanol can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions in some people who are genetically predisposed to these issues due to sensitive skin or eczema. It’s recommended that if you have sensitive skin, you test products containing phenoxyethanol on a small patch of skin on your body for several days to check for any potential reactions.

Yes. Because it’s derived synthetically from laboratory chemicals, this ingredient is not animal-derived and is completely cruelty-free. Many vegan and cruelty-free skincare companies use phenoxyethanol in their products. As always, you should always look for brand information and read the labels of skincare products to check for non-vegan ingredients.

Due to its properties, Phenoxyethanol is readily utilized in most personal care products. Phenoxyethanol is used in hair care products, not because of its beauty benefits, but because it serves as an excellent preservative. It is ideal for those looking for paraben-free beauty products. Its included in hair care products as a preservative because of its antibacterial property. Other benefits of Phenoxyethanol include

It exhibits antimicrobial properties due to which it is considered to be very effective in preventing the growth of various kinds of bacteria, fungi, and yeast in your hair care products.

It adds stability to the product formula because Phenoxyethanol does not react with other ingredients in the formula, as well as with air and light.

The use of Phenoxyethanol in your hair care formula ensures the safety of the products, thereby increasing the shelf-life period of the products.

It is very effective in fighting a variety of pathogens in various haircare as well as skincare products.

You will find mixed responses among people about the safety of this ingredient in your cosmetic products. Topical use of Phenoxyethanol is considered to be safe if used sparingly. Normally the concentration of Phenoxyethanol up to 1% is allowed in product formulae. However, overuse and overexposure to it can lead to serious health problems. It is not safe to be used internally. The products containing Phenoxyethanol are considered to be unsafe for infants. It is advisable to avoid using products containing Phenoxyethanol if you are dealing with severe skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or dermatitis. Keep out of the reach of children. People with sensitive skin should do a patch test before using it and check for any allergic reaction. If you notice any allergic reaction on your skin discontinue its use and immediately consult a doctor.

Phenoxyethanol, when administered in the feed to mice, was a reproductive toxicant to F, mice. In addition, there was a dose-dependent decrease in live pup weight. Continuous exposure of the F, mice to Phenoxyethanol resulted in reduced body weights and in mortality in the mid-and high-dose groups. Phenoxyethanol in the diet was toxic to newborn and young mice. Seminal vesicle weights were reduced in the males of the mid-and high-dose groups. Bodyweight gain and reproductivity/fertility were not adversely affected by Phenoxyethanol at low- and mid-dose dietary concentrations. Dermal treatment of pregnant New Zealand White rabbits with Phenoxyethanol did not result in teratogenicity, embryotoxicity, or fetotoxicity at doses up to those which were maternally toxic. No significant testicular atrophy was seen in mice after oral treatment with Phenoxyethanol.

Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether that is used in cosmetics as a preservative at concentrations below I % and as a fixative for perfumes. According to the classification scheme of Hodge and Sterner,‚Äú’ Phenoxyethanol is practically nontoxic when administered orally or dermally to rats. In a subchronic oral toxicity study in rats of Phenoxyethanol, signs of toxicity included reduced body weights and an impaired ability to utilize feed. Increased liver, kidney, and thyroid weights were noted at necropsy in surviving rats. Undiluted Phenoxyethanol was a strong eye irritant but was nonirritating when tested at 2.2%. Phenoxyethanol at 2.0% was a slight irritant to rabbit skin but was neither an irritant nor sensitizer to guinea pig skin. In dermal treatment studies, Phenoxyethanol was neither teratogenic, embryotoxic or fetotoxic at doses that were maternally toxic. Phenoxyethanol was nonmutagenic in the Ames test, with and without metabolic activation, and in the mouse micronucleus test. In clinical studies, Phenoxyethanol was neither a primary irritant nor a sensitizer. Phenoxyethanol was not phototoxic in clinical studies. It is concluded that Phenoxyethanol is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration.

To get more information on phenoxyethanol visit our website to ask your quary @ https://connectchemicals.com/en/product-finder/phenoxyethanol

Visit Us @ https://connectchemicals.com

1 note · View note

devoted1989 · 4 years

Text

what legal protection do farmed animals have?

The Animal Welfare Act (Laboratory Animal Welfare Act of 1966, P.L. 89-544) was signed into law in 1966.

It is the only Federal law in the United States that regulates the treatment of animals in research, exhibition, transport, and by dealers.

Other laws, policies, and guidelines may include additional species coverage or specifications for animal care and use, but all refer to the Animal Welfare Act as the minimum acceptable standard.

Animals covered under this Act include any live or dead cat, dog, hamster, rabbit, nonhuman primate, guinea pig, and any other warm-blooded animal determined by the Secretary of Agriculture for research, pet use or exhibition. Excluded from the Act are birds, laboratory rats, laboratory mice, farm animals, and all cold-blooded animals.

Legal Protection for Farmed Animals

It is estimated that nine billion land animals are raised and killed for food every year in the U.S. The number of aquatic animals killed in the U.S. every year is unknown, because the statistics kept are in tonnages, not individual beings.

Despite their vast numbers, and severity of abuse they suffer, farmed animals receive only minimal protections by the legal system. No federal laws govern the condition in which farmed animals are raised and most state anti-cruelty laws exempt farmed animals.

Farmed animals raised for the meat, dairy, and egg industries are among the most abused in the U.S. Investigations and industry whistle - blowers have revealed abuses on farms and in slaughterhouses so horrific, most people cannot even bear to witness them.

These common, cruel, currently legal practices include: - Animals can have their testicles, tails, horns, beaks, or toes removed without anesthesia. - In most states, animals are intensively confined in spaces so small they cannot turn around, extend their wings, or lie down comfortably, as in gestation crates, veal crates, and battery cages. - Hens are systematically starved in order to artificially restart their egg-laying cycles (forced moulting). - Male chicks are ground up alive, and piglets are killed by slamming their heads on the ground. - Calves can be taken away from their mothers, mere moments after birth, causing distress for both. Calves raised for veal are so severely confined they cannot turn around or stretch their limbs.

Producers utilize these practices in order to maximize productivity and profits. Poultry are given no protections at all – not even the minimal ones accorded other farmed animals.

Animals used for food while on farms in the United States have no legal protections until they are transported off the farm.

The “28 Hour Law“: This law, enacted in 1873, requires vehicles transporting certain animals for slaughter to stop every 28 hours to allow the animals exercise, food and water. The law does not apply if the vehicle in which animals are being transported contains access to food or water.

Even then, poultry, which account for 98 percent of animals raised for food, do not fall under the protection of the few federal laws that apply to livestock.

The Humane Slaughter Act, or the Humane Methods of Livestock Slaughter Act: This law was first passed in 1958, then amended in 1978. The Humane Methods of Slaughter Act requires that animals be stunned into unconsciousness before slaughter, to minimize pain. Though chickens, turkeys and other birds feel pain just like other animals, they are not protected by this law either.

Sources: The Animal Legal Defense Fund, Wikipedia, The National Anti-Vivisection Society, Animal Welfare Institute and The US Department of Agriculture - National Agricultural Library.

More information may be found here:

National Anti-Vivisection Society (NAVS)

https://www.navs.org/what-we-do/keep-you-informed/legal-arena/research/explanation-of-the-animal-welfare-act-awa/#.XvxEnGgzbIU

#vegan #veganism #go vegan #govegan #go veg #goveg #legal protection for animals #animal rights

7 notes · View notes

imagine-organization-xiii · 5 years

Note

This is kind of dumb but uhh Organization members with a S/O who LOVES rodents and INSISTS upon always keeping a pair of gerbils/rats/mice/etc.?

NO IT ISN’T DUMB - also I used different rodents for each person

Xemnas - Doesn’t care what you have as a pet as long as you don’t leave him to take care of it. Would prefer if they don’t get in the way or make a mess, but other than that, he’s fine with whatever you want.

Xigbar - “You don’t want to get something… I don’t know. Something a bit more… tough?” “No, so back off.” Ends up LOVING your gerbils, though. The epitome of that meme ‘i’ve only know y/n’s pets for a day and a half and if anything happened to them, I would kill everyone in this room and then myself.’

Xaldin - Xaldin doesn’t see the appeal. They used to have a tomcat at his childhood home that they specifically had to catch mice that tried to get into the food in the kitchen, so he really sees them as a nuisance. He gets used to them, though, especially when you end up treating them as though they were any other type of pet, like getting toys for them and watching them all play together.

Vexen - “Oh, did you get new mice for us to use for experiment testing?” “nO” Has no idea why you would want a bunch of mice as pets but respects your decision. You can’t ever take them into the lab, though, in case he doesn’t realize what he’s doing and accidentally mistakes them for some of the test rats in the lab.

Lexaeus - You and your baby chinchilla are a package deal and Lexaeus kind of falls in love with the little creature??? He’s just so cute??? And seeing such a huge man with such a tiny, fluffy animal is seriously adorable for you. Usually takes the initiative of taking care of or feeding the chinchilla before you get to do so.

Zexion - Actually super intrigued about your pets so he does as much research as he can on taking care of rodents, especially hamsters and gerbils because those are some of his favorites. He’s nervous about handling them because he’s afraid that he’ll hurt them, but he gets used to it pretty quickly!

Saix - Much too busy to take care of a pet but doesn’t really care what you do with your own time. Allows you to keep a large terrarium for your pets on a dresser in your bedroom and thinks it’s amusing how you can stand there for hours just running around.

Axel - Axel never had a pet as a kid, but he always wanted one, so he pretty much considers your pet guinea pig as his own. Definitely does one of those dorky pet/owner photoshoots and gifts the photos to you as a Christmas present.

Demyx - It was his idea for you to get some kind of small pet, but he was really thinking that it would be a goldfish or something, not a small little cage of hamsters. But they’re cute, though, he’ll give you that. He can easily spend hours just watching the little things play around in their terrarium.

Luxord - He’s not really a pet person, but he understands that a lot of other people are and that they get attached to their pets. He knows that you and your mice come as a package deal and will happily tolerate them as long as he doesn’t have to touch them.

Marluxia - “I don’t care what you have as a pet, just make sure those little shits don’t get into my vegetable garden.” He tolerates your pets, at best, as long as you keep them under control. Not really a pet person tbh because he’s always afraid that they’ll make a mess.

Larxene - She immediately expects the worst when you say that you have rodents as pets, and is pleasantly surprised to see that your pets are just a couple of hamsters. They’re surprisingly cute, even though they sometimes squeak a lot at night when she’s trying to sleep.

Roxas - A pet??? Little guinea pigs?? Omg?? He absolutely loves them so much and loves watching them play and run around. He thinks they’re adorable and he’s so excited that you let him play with them because he’s never had the chance to have a pet before! It’s also a great stress reliever for him!

Xion - at first she was kind of hesitant to be around them because she isn’t really a fan of mice or rats or anything like that, but she gets over it fairly quickly, especially when she sees how much they mean to you! Finds them to be kind of cute, especially the gerbils, and will definitely offer to take care of them for you when you’re away on a mission.

#organization xiii #organization xiii headcanons #kingdom hearts headcanons #kingdom hearts

34 notes · View notes

alithographica · 7 years

Photo

The name “bandicoot” is derived from the Telugu “pandi-kokku”, or “pig-rat”.

Patreon | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | deviantArt

Transcript below the cut.

Bandicoots

Bandicoots are nocturnal, solitary mammals native to Australia and New Guinea. There are approximately 20 species of bandicoot. Most weigh about 1 kg (2.2 lbs) and are the size of a young kitten. They feed on insects, spiders, seeds, and fungi, but have been known to eat small lizards and mice too. While searching for food the bandicoot will dig and poke at the ground with their long snout, leaving small conical holes all around their territory.

Though they look rodents, bandicoots are actually marsupials like koalas and kangaroos. They give birth to underdeveloped offspring after just 11 days of gestation – the shortest of any mammal – and then carry them in a pouch for 3 months. Unlike most marsupials, this pouch opens towards the back to allow the mother to dig without throwing dirt into the pouch.

Numerous bandicoot species have gone extinct since European colonization and several others are threatened by habitat loss and introduced predators like cats and foxes. Bandicoots have also been affected by invasive rabbits, which compete for many of the same food sources and destroy the underbrush that bandicoots hide in. Though small, bandicoots play an important ecological role. Their digging helps to cycle nutrients in the soil and decompose leaf litter. The loss of bandicoots leads to poorer biodiversity throughout the area.

References: https://www.bushheritage.org.au/species/bandicootshttp://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/topics/animals-and-plants/native-animals/native-animal-facts/bandicoots

#scientific illustration #bandicoot #biology #biodiversity #marsupial #animal #nature #australia #new guinea #science #science fact friday #my art #artists on tumblr #original art

151 notes · View notes

lovemychinchilla · 4 years

Photo

Are Chinchillas Good With Other Pets?

If you have chinchillas, you're likely to have other pets too. But do dogs, cats, hamsters, gerbils and rats get along with chinchillas? If not, why not?

Can you keep chinchillas with other pets? It's possible to do so if you're careful, although it's not recommended. That's because other pets could attack your chinchilla, or at least cause it distress. If you must keep other pets with chinchillas, keep them in separate rooms and don't let them play together. Avoid direct or indirect contact to limit the spread of fleas, worms and ticks.

The guide below first looks at why chinchillas aren't good with other pets, and looks at some specific species (cats, dogs, other rodents and so on). It finishes by making certain recommendations, such that if you do want to keep both chinchillas and other pets, you can do so safely.

Are Chinchillas Good With Other Pets?

We recommend against keeping both chinchillas and other pets. There are three main reasons why:

Chinchillas are prey animals, and predator animals like dogs and cats will recognize them as such, so could attack

Other animals cause chinchillas distress

Chinchillas can cause other animals distress

It is possible to keep chinchillas with other animals successfully, and many owners do so. But it's not recommended practise.

Are Chinchillas Good With Dogs?

Chinchillas aren't good with dogs. Dogs are predators with hunting instincts. Chinchillas are prey animals. Almost every owner thinks their dog is different to others, that it's better trained, that it would 'never hurt a fly', and so on. But a dog's instincts can kick in at any moment.

The specific instinct that causes the problem is called the prey drive. This is a reflex that dogs have; when they see something running away from them, they want to chase it. So your dog may be perfectly well behaved while your chinchilla sits and watches it nervously. But if the chinchilla tries to run away, the dog will likely try to chase it, and what happens at the end won't be good news for your chin.

If you think this wouldn't happen because dogs were bred to hunt other animals, not chinchillas, that's not true either. Many dogs (particularly terriers, e.g. rat terriers) were bred specifically to hunt for rodents. Chinchillas are rodents. We recommend against keeping dogs and chinchillas in the same house.

Are Chinchillas Good With Cats?

Chinchillas don't get along with cats, either, and for the same reason. Cats are predators while chinchillas are prey.

If anything, cats are worse around chins than dogs are. That's because you can at least partly train a dog, while cats do whatever they like. There's therefore more of a chance that your cat will pester your chinchilla by sitting near its cage, reaching its paw through the bars, and so on.

The same applies to them playing together. Cats have the same chasing instinct that dogs do. The only comfort is that most cats wouldn't be able to kill a chinchilla, as chinchillas are too big. But even so, they wouldn't 'understand' each other—the chinchilla would think it's being hunted, while the cat would think it's hunting. Neither thinks it's playing!

Are Chinchillas Good With Birds?

If you want another pet and you already have a chinchilla, a bird wouldn't be a bad choice. Chinchillas don't have predatory instincts, so wouldn't hassle your birds. And unless you're planning on keeping a golden eagle in a cage, the bird won't want to eat your chinchilla either.

The only problem is that birds can be quite noisy. They squeak and they squawk, and your chinchilla might not like that. Some chins don't mind these kinds of noises or this much noise, but some do, so bear that in mind before you get one.

Are Chinchillas Good With Other Rodents?

Chinchillas are fine with other rodents, so long as each pet has its own space. You can't keep them all in the same cage, and ideally, you shouldn't keep them in the same room either.

Are chinchillas good with mice? Yes. Mice are small and non-threatening. The only issue is that they have a strong smell to themselves and their cages, which your chinchilla will smell if it's in the same room.

Are chinchillas good with rats? Yes, but again, they have a strong smell. If your chin smells other pets, it won't feel as secure in its home, even if those other pets aren't predators.

Are chinchillas good with hamsters? Yes.

Are chinchillas good with gerbils? Yes.

Are chinchillas good with guinea pigs? Yes. Chinchillas and guinea pigs are closely related as they're both from South America—but you still can't keep them in the same cage.

Are chinchillas good with other chinchillas? Yes! Chinchillas thrive when placed in small groups, ideally pairs, although they can live alone perfectly well.

Any other small rodent does equally well in the same house as a chinchilla. So long as you don't keep them in the same cage or allow them contact, there's no problem.

Are Chinchillas Good With Rabbits?

Rabbits aren't, strictly speaking, rodents. But as they're small animals, they're considered here too. Chinchillas can live in the same house as rabbits without issue. Both rabbits and chinchillas are prey animals, so neither will feel threatened by the other.

What might be a problem is if you keep the cages of both animals in the same room. While they won't be scared that the other pet is a predator, your chinchillas might not appreciate being in a room that smells like other animals. Chinchillas navigate the world with their senses of smell and hearing, so if they can constantly smell some other unknown (to them) animal, it might make them stressed.

Can Chinchillas Play With Other Pets?

Chinchillas can't play with other pets, whether those pets are predators or prey animals. If an animal is a predator, it obviously can't play with your chinchilla because it might attack it.

It might come as a surprise that another prey animal like a rabbit or a bird can't play with a chinchilla either, but it's true. There are two reasons why. The first is that chinchillas have unique body language. They hold their ears back when they're tired to show that they're sleepy, they make loud barking noises to alert the rest of the herd to danger; and at the other end of the spectrum, they stand up and stare at each other when they feel aggressive.

Unfortunately, other animals don't understand this body language. And some other animals, like gerbils, have body language of their own.

How to Keep Chinchillas And Other Pets in The Same House

If you do plan on keeping chinchillas with other pets, at least do so carefully. Here are a set of guidelines you can follow to ensure that all of your pets remain happy, healthy and safe.

1) Never Keep Chins in The Same Cage as Other Pets

This is an absolute rule that you must adhere to. Chinchillas cannot live in cages with any other pets. Of course, that applies to cats and dogs; you can't crate them together when you go out. But it applies to rabbits, guinea pigs, birds, mice, rats—any other animal.

Even though chinchillas and other small rodents have roughly similar needs, they won't get along if kept in the same cage. That's because they would view each other as competitors so would fight over resources like food, water and shelter. This applies even if your chinchilla and other pets are normally well-behaved.

2) Give Your Chinchilla Its Own Room

Chinchillas are skittish at the best of times. Your pet will be even more nervous and distressed if it's bothered by another of your pet's, e.g. if it stares at your chinchilla's cage or makes loud noises.

You can avoid this problem by keeping your chinchilla in a room that no other pet is allowed in. You could pick the basement, for example, or your bedroom. It doesn't matter which room you pick, so long as the room is suitable for chinchillas (with regards to temperature, humidity, natural light and so on). This will:

Stop the other pets from making your chinchilla stressed; it may not even know they're in the house

Avoid nasty accidents when your chinchilla is out of its cage playing

Ensure your chinchilla's room doesn't smell like other pets (which it does, even if you don't notice it)

Stop fleas and other pests from spreading

Of course, you can spend time in the room. It's just your other pets that can't. So long as you and your clothes don't smell like other pets, that won't be an issue.

3) Avoid Direct Contact

Direct contact between your chinchilla and other pets is bad for obvious reasons. First and foremost, the other pet could attack your chinchilla.

Another reason is that parasites like fleas, worms and ticks can be passed from pet to pet through direct contact. Chinchillas very rarely get parasites because they're kept securely in cages, so never have contact with a neighbor's pets, or feral animals. But if your other pets have these parasites, then there's a chance that through direct contact, they could be passed on.

On top of that, chinchillas don't know how to play with other pets. If your chinchilla and your dog, for example, were left to 'play' then they wouldn't know how. Dogs play by bouncing around, and are rough. While chinchillas like to bounce around too, they're much too delicate to play with a big animal. And besides, your chin would think it's being attacked, not being played with.

Chins can't play with other rodent pets either. That's because different rodents express body language in different ways. Plus, your chin will feel defensive over its space, its food and its water, which won't make it want to play with an animal that it sees as a direct threat to its resources.

4) Avoid Indirect Contact

That being said, parasites like fleas don't just live on their hosts; they infest your furniture, your bedding, and your home generally. So when one of your pets brings home fleas, they'll end up in the carpet or somewhere else around the room. Then, the next time you let your chinchilla out of its cage, the parasites could infest it. You can avoid this by keeping your chin in its own room.

Something else you have to do is wash your hands before and after handling any of your pets. If you pet your dog before handling your chinchilla, your hands will smell of dog, which will worry your chin. Avoid this by washing your hands with unscented soap.

Aside from this, be sensible and be safe. If you have to make any decision regarding your chinchilla and another pet, think: if I were my chinchilla, would I be happy with that? If not, don't do it.

Below, you can find our chinchilla quiz, new posts for further reading, and a signup for our Chinchilla Newsletter!

#chinchillas #chinchillacare

0 notes

simplyfandomish · 7 years

Text

Fluffy Love

Harry Potter x Muggle!Reader

Warnings: NONE, fluff??, fluffy creatures??

Harry Potter was anything less than ordinary, but to you, he seemed like your very normal, average, loving boyfriend.

After the Battle of Hogwarts, Harry deserved a well-needed vacation from the magical world. For years, he faced Voldemort and countless other things. Of course, he made sure to write to all of his closest friends whenever he could - the Weasley family were most intrigued by the use of the Muggle post system.

Harry decided that what better way to recover from such dramatic events than to get a pet? A PTSD recovery pet if you will.

That’s where he had met you.

The animal shelter was not only your summer job but also your happy place - who wouldn’t be happy to be surrounded by animals and get paid??

You had just finished changing the water bowls in the cat sanctuary when you spotted him scanning the dog section.

“Are you finding everything you need sir?” The man turned to you, allowing to see his appearance.

Messy raven locks, brilliant emerald green eyes were hidden behind large circular spectacles, and a slight stubble on his chin. Though one of the more handsome customers, you couldn’t help but look passed his charm and stare at the dark circles under his eyes and the exhausted, tired marks on his skin.

“Ah yes, thank you.”

You nodded, “Well if you need help with anything, please don’t hesitate to ask.”

He gave you a small, polite smile.

During the small encounter, Harry had also taken in your appearance. Peach skinned with a few freckles littered over your arms; long, wavy, wine color dyed hair pulled up loosely into a ponytail; deep dimples that formed when you gave him your “customer friendly smile”; and surprisingly, worked the plain light green shelter uniform shirt, with a pair of jeans, and your mussed up pair of converse.

Harry couldn’t deny it - you were a sight.

The pretty girl spun on her heel to carry on with her duties, but Harry couldn’t let her get away!

“Actually, I do need some assistance.” He piped up.

You turned back to him with another one of your smiles. “Of course! How can I help you?”

“I’m looking for a pet that isn’t too much to handle, but comforting,” Harry stated, making you purse your lips in thought.

Another cute thing to add to the list.

“Well, that could be a variety of the animals we have here. Do you have a size range you would like?”

Harry took a moment to think. “Well I live in an apartment, pretty spacious, but not the type for larger animals.” His eyes glanced towards the barking labs, rotties, and shepherds.

“So dogs are out of the mix.” You noted his look towards the barking animals. “And I get the vibe you’re not really a cat person.” Harry’s mind immediately went to Crookshanks - Hermione’s “pig with fur” as Ron had dubbed it. Blasted cat was more of a nuisance than the perfect puss Hermione always debated about. “Yeah, no on the cats.”

“Well, we have the smaller dogs we can look at. We have plenty of terriers, cocker spaniels, Scotties, Bulldogs-”

“I don’t think dogs are what I’m looking for.” Harry had immediately cut her off at the last dog breed. Though, cute and wrinkly (if you could actually stomach their smelly breath and breathing problems), he’s had enough of bulldogs. He could thank his Aunt Marge for that… Plus the fact that his late godfather could turn into a dog had left a bad taste in his mouth.

You shrugged, “The only things that I could think to describe your situation is the rodents.” You gestured him to follow you through the shelter before entering the rodent enclosure. “Please use the hand sani, we don’t want them to get sick.” After applying a generous amount of the foamy sanitizer, you led him into the enclosure.

All along the walls and sections of the floor was filled with cages and a large gated area.

In the small enclosure were rabbits of all sizes, color, and pattern; while the cages contained everything from mice to rats to guinea pigs to hamsters to - and what Harry found to be very amusing - ferrets.

“All of these guys are pretty quiet-” the guinea pigs whistled in order to prove you wrong, “Pretty quiet.”

Harry found himself staring amusedly at the few cages with the ferrets; again, his mind drifting back to his time at Hogwarts. Even though his fourth year was all Hell, Draco Malfoy being turned into a ferret seemed to be the only highlight.

“The ferrets?” You drew him out of the memory as you joined him to observe the cat snakes. “Cute little devils, I’ll give you that.” You wiggled your finger against the cage, your finger having now become the occupants’ prey. With a little hunch of its back and a wiggle of it bottom it pounced onto where your finger had been, the ferret now trying to capture your appendage as you teased it.

Harry thought of his options: dogs and cats were no-go; he may be a wizard, but not a magician - rabbits were out; a mouse and a hamster would be too small, and he doubted a rat would be pleased to see a portion of its species be used in potions. Was he seriously considering this??

“I-I think I may have found what I was looking for.” He could already feel the bewildered gazes he was going to receive from Ronald and Hermione.

You felt a smile grow on your face. “Perfect! Now we’re gonna have to decide which one of these lovely bachelors and bachelorettes, the handsome man will go home with.”

Harry whipped his head towards you, pink dusting his cheeks and the tips of his ears.

That day, Harry had left the shelter with a bachelor and a bachelorette, her phone number included.

Harry smiled at the memory.

He, now a year older, still on his vacation, and a few months swimming in the dating pool, was comfortably lying in bed running a hand through silky wine colored tresses.

Seven months and you still bore the same dyed color. Not that he was complaining, he grew quite fond of the color - especially when it haloed around your flushed face during a night of lovemaking.

Harry wouldn’t lie, keeping who he truly was hidden for seven months was a backbreaker. Especially when Hermione or Ron sent him letters by owl. Or you would persist to know his backstory, urging to know about his family and friends. Or when you accidentally came upon the weird stick enclosed in a glass case on one of his shelves. Or when you would always ask about how he got his signature lightning scar - and you sure as hell wouldn’t believe it was because of a car accident.

You rubbed your face against his chest, a sign you were waking up from your slumber.

A small squeak of protest came from the space between yours and his body. A small white head wriggled its way out from under the sheets and looked up at him. The snow-white ferret Harry had rescued from the shelter had proved to be a worth PTSD pet.

It wasn’t large and cuddly like a dog or would sit on your lap quietly like a cat, but it did bring entertainment when it would mindlessly crash into walls and furniture in its plastic ball. It also proved to be a good “scarf”.

Harry quietly chuckled as his furry companion climbed from its comfortable position on the mattress and crawled its way up his girlfriend’s back, before burrowing into her tresses.

His girlfriend made another sign of waking as the critter continued its slumber.

‘Today’s the day.’ Harry thought as he gazed down at you and rubbed his hand up your back in comfort. For him at least.

Today, he was going to tell you everything.

“Want some more bacon, love?” Harry called over his shoulder as he continued to slave over breakfast. “I think I’m getting full, thanks though babe.” You answered.

The breakfast was delicious, and it was a definite surprise when Harry took the pan and spatula out of your hands and took control of the stove. You always made breakfast, so when Harry wanted to cook, it meant something was bothering him.

Or maybe it was your birthday breakfast and you forgot?? Wait, your birthday’s not until another few months…Oh, you hoped it wasn’t one of those monthly anniversaries.

“Harry.” You drawled out as he turned off all the appliances and settled down across from you. “What’re you up to?” You tapped your fingernails against the table top.

Harry stared at you innocently. “Up to?”

“I’m the cook. So when you want to cook, you’re up to something.” You raised a brow, hitting the nail on the head.

Harry nervous laughed and ate a piece of bacon, “C-can’t a guy just cook for his beautiful girlfriend?”

You didn’t lighten your stare when you took a sip of orange juice. You found some enjoyment of making your boyfriend squirm under your gaze. Oh, what power a woman has. “You’re stuttering.”

Harry tried to come up with a rebuttal, but the gentle squeeze on his hand silence him. With concerned eyes and furrowed brows, you said, “Babe, what’s going on?”

Harry intertwined your fingers and sighed. “What if I told you there was another side of me that I never told you?”

You narrowed your eyes, “You’re not into hardcore BDSM are you?”

“BD…no!”

“Psycho murderer?”

“No.” Harry tightened the grip on your fingers. “I’m a…a wizard.” Emerald eyes stared into your (e/c) eyes with hope and longing.

After a moment of silence - “And I’m Snitch.” The snow-white ferret perked up at its name.

Harry groaned in the back of his throat. “I’m serious!” You raised your brow at him again. Harry sighed and rushed out of the kitchen.

“Babe!” You called after him and hung out of the kitchen doorway towards the staircase. “Come on, I’m sorry I didn’t take you seriously. So you’re a wizard, so what? You can be whatever you want to-” Harry came back down the stairs with the weird stick you’d come across from before and a small trunk in his palm.

You and Snitch turned to each other in confusion as he placed the small trunk on the couch and waved the stick. And right before your eyes, the trunk started to enlarge returning to its original large size.

Snitch squeaked in surprise and scrambled into your shirt, his head popping up from your chest. “Still don’t believe me?” Harry smirked at your dumbfound form.

“You drugged me.” You accused simply, making Harry’s smirk melt into a shocked one. Snitch seemed to squeak in agreement.

“No, no! I really am a wizard!” Harry waved his wand again, summoning a small army of birds to flutter around you.

“LSD? Coke?” You named off drugs that he might’ve slipped into your food, waving away one of the birds that flew around your face. The ferret leaped out form your shirt and hopped around trying to catch the feathery prey.

Harry sighed again and slumped onto the couch, beside his large school trunk. The birds disappeared into small sparkles, Snitch chirped with a tilted head.

You took in his distressed form and sighed as well before settling yourself on the couch next to him. It was quiet between the both of you as you leaned your head against his shoulder. “You know I’m just messing right?” You gazed up at him, “I believe you.” You nuzzled the side of his neck with your forehead as you reached over to grab his hand that loosely held his wand.

Bringing the appendage and piece of wood closer to your face, you observed the intricately carved wood. “It’s beautiful.”

“Had to go through four of them,” Harry stated quietly, he too staring at the wand. “But this was my original. Broke it almost three times".

You chuckled, “Of course you would. You’re so clumsy when it comes to fragile things. How many glasses have you gone through since I’ve known you?” You joked. The air around both of you growing lighter with each passing second.

“Many more times than you need to know. And that’s not counting during school.” Harry snorted as peeled the lens from his face and stared at the glass and metal in melancholy.

“So what other tricks do you have up your sleeve, Mr. Magician?” You brought him back to reality with your sense of light humor.

“You might wanna get comfortable. This may take a while.” Harry stated sheepishly as he leaned over to grab his old school trunk. Snitch took his owners advice and crawled his way back up onto your shoulders.

You placed a kiss in the crook of his neck, “I’ve got all day.” Harry leaned down, placing his lips tenderly on your own.

The moment could have prolonged if it weren’t the protesting squeaks coming from your shoulder. “I swear he gets jealous of me,” Harry muttered as he ran a hand through Snitch's soft white coat.

The both of you shared a smile before turning your attention back to the worn leather case of memories.

*BONUS*

“Wait so the only reason you were attracted to Snitch was because a school bully was transformed into a ferret?” Harry thought for a moment before nodding. It wasn’t false.

“Your life was…eventful.” You weren’t sure that was the correct word, but that was the better way to describe it.

“My life was a roller coaster, but now that I have you,” Harry intertwined your fingers and kissed your hand, “it’s a lot more tolerable.”

“That was the cheesiest thing you’ve ever said to me.” Snitch squeaked in agreement, but the animal was ignored. “And I love you.”

The ferret places his paws over his ears and covered his eyes as you wrapped Harry’s old House scarf around his neck and jerked him forward, promptly smashing his lips onto yours.

Snitch knew this was his cue to leave. He’s had enough of his owners’ mating habits.

#my writing #harry potter #harry potter imagine #harry potter x reader #harry james potter #cat snakes #fanfic

183 notes · View notes

lovemychinchilla · 4 years

Photo

Are Chinchillas Good With Other Pets?

If you have chinchillas, you're likely to have other pets too. But do dogs, cats, hamsters, gerbils and rats get along with chinchillas? If not, why not?

Are Chinchillas Good With Other Pets?

We recommend against keeping both chinchillas and other pets. There are three main reasons why:

Chinchillas are prey animals, and predator animals like dogs and cats will recognize them as such, so could attack

Other animals cause chinchillas distress

Chinchillas can cause other animals distress

It is possible to keep chinchillas with other animals successfully, and many owners do so. But it's not recommended practise.

Are Chinchillas Good With Dogs?

[caption id="attachment_2276" align="alignright" width="275"] Chinchillas definitely aren't good with dogs.[/caption]

Are Chinchillas Good With Cats?

Chinchillas don't get along with cats, either, and for the same reason. Cats are predators while chinchillas are prey.

Are Chinchillas Good With Birds?

Are Chinchillas Good With Other Rodents?

[caption id="attachment_2548" align="alignright" width="300"] Chinchillas can live with other rodents, just not in the same cage.[/caption]

Chinchillas are fine with other rodents, so long as each pet has its own space. You can't keep them all in the same cage, and ideally, you shouldn't keep them in the same room either.

Are chinchillas good with rats? Yes, but again, they have a strong smell. If your chin smells other pets, it won't feel as secure in its home, even if those other pets aren't predators.

Are chinchillas good with hamsters? Yes.

Are chinchillas good with gerbils? Yes.

Are chinchillas good with guinea pigs? Yes. Chinchillas and guinea pigs are closely related as they're both from South America—but you still can't keep them in the same cage.

Are chinchillas good with other chinchillas? Yes! Chinchillas thrive when placed in small groups, ideally pairs, although they can live alone perfectly well.

Any other small rodent does equally well in the same house as a chinchilla. So long as you don't keep them in the same cage or allow them contact, there's no problem.

Are Chinchillas Good With Rabbits?

Can Chinchillas Play With Other Pets?

Chinchillas can't play with other pets, whether those pets are predators or prey animals. If an animal is a predator, it obviously can't play with your chinchilla because it might attack it.

Unfortunately, other animals don't understand this body language. And some other animals, like gerbils, have body language of their own.

How to Keep Chinchillas And Other Pets in The Same House

If you do plan on keeping chinchillas with other pets, at least do so carefully. Here are a set of guidelines you can follow to ensure that all of your pets remain happy, healthy and safe.

1) Never Keep Chins in The Same Cage as Other Pets

[caption id="attachment_664" align="alignright" width="300"] Chinchillas need their own cages. They can live with other chins, just not with other pets.[/caption]

2) Give Your Chinchilla Its Own Room

Stop the other pets from making your chinchilla stressed; it may not even know they're in the house

Avoid nasty accidents when your chinchilla is out of its cage playing

Ensure your chinchilla's room doesn't smell like other pets (which it does, even if you don't notice it)

Stop fleas and other pests from spreading

Of course, you can spend time in the room. It's just your other pets that can't. So long as you and your clothes don't smell like other pets, that won't be an issue.

3) Avoid Direct Contact

Direct contact between your chinchilla and other pets is bad for obvious reasons. First and foremost, the other pet could attack your chinchilla.

4) Avoid Indirect Contact

Aside from this, be sensible and be safe. If you have to make any decision regarding your chinchilla and another pet, think: if I were my chinchilla, would I be happy with that? If not, don't do it.

Below, you can find our chinchilla quiz, new posts for further reading, and a signup for our Chinchilla Newsletter!

[ays_quiz id='9']

#chinchillas #chinchillacare

0 notes