#pierpaolo could never

[atenderofsycamoretrees]

Naeem Khan Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear

Photos by Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

[weclassybouquetfun]

I read W magazine's article speculating on who could take over as artistic director at Chanel after the announcement that Virginie Viard is stepping down after 30 years.

Some of the bandied about names: Sarah Burton formerly of Alexander McQueen, Jeremy Scott formerly of Moschino, Hedi Slimane of Céline (who is the presumptive favourite as Chanel's former artistic director Karl Lagerfeld was a big fan of Slimane and lost weight in order to fit into his designs), Pierpaolo Piccioli formerly of Valentino, Haider Ackermann formerly of Berluti (another favourite of Lagerfeld and one whom Lagerfeld said he would love to see work at Chanel), fresh out of designer jail John Galliano of Maison Margiela, Phoebe Philo formerly of Céline and Marc Jacobs.

Never 5get.

The talk of succession at Chanel is of interest to me because I not too long ago watched BECOMING KARL LAGERFELD starring Daniel Brühl as Kunty Karl and Théodore Pellerin as the entrancing Jacques de Bascher, love of Karl Lagerfeld, lover of Yves Saint Laurent.

de Bascher and Saint Laurent.

Here is Brühl on being wooed by Pellerin.

If I'm ranking the limited series about fashion designers, my ranking goes

Cristóbal Balenciaga - As Balenciaga was an enigma who reportedly never gave an interview, the series could be bolder in its storytelling compared to the other series. And it gave lavish focus on the design as much as his personal relationships. A well-rounded series. Sumptuous.

Halston - I liked that it ventured into the business side of how designers had to diversify in order to survive.

The New Look - The second half of the series was very strong and more of interest to me than the front half as it dealt more with the design side whereas the first half is about the personal lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel.

Becoming Karl Lagerfeld. While very good, the series IMO is more about de Bascher and his desire to be loved by Lagerfeld (who amazingly never slept with him!) and his place in the love square that was Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent and Laurent's business partner/former lover Pierre Bergé. The ending does set it up for a potential second series and I hope it does get one.

[inyourwildestdreams22]

Are you excited about the met Gala? I'm looking forward to it for the first time because of Z, and I think we should do a poll on who she's going to wear.

Because there is a chance she could wear Jonathan Anderson for Loewe as she will still be promo for challengers and they're the host, but then I'm like ehhh LV would've a fit atp, so it's them.

But then I get like in my head and Pierpaolo never designed for her at the Met, and I hope he's announced as the head for Givenchy (LVMH), then i quickly dismiss that coz time frame is too small.

So then i get more loony and start thinking since the theme is waking up sleeping beauties, what if we see her in a never seen Dior from the vault (LVMH), coz Law said even though we shouldn't believe him they don't have ideas yet, too small time grame to have something made? Let's wear vintage, or if they make a new outfit it could be an inspired new gown paying homage to a sleeping creation.

Anyway, can you tell I'm excited for this year? It has been so long, and I can't wait for her to have this moment as a host.

I’m so excited too, I know Z’s return will be iconic and we will all be gagged. I don’t know what she’ll wear tbh, I think she might wear some vintage one that will gag everyone like the robot suit mugler

[jemeryas]

Olivier Rousteing Brings Congo Fashion History to the West

Olivier Rousteing never fails to amaze me. From the time that I was introduced to him I have paid close attention to the campaigns and collections that he has been apart of since stepping into the creative director role of Balmain back in 2011. Most notably his campaign with Kanye West for his ‘Wolves’ music video that featured models like Joanne Small, Jourdan Dunn, Jordan Barrett and a slew of other recognizable faces, it was my first time fully able to witness the creative genius of Olivier as well as the impeccable tailoring and craftsmanship that he brings to his clothes; while also getting to enjoy one of my favorite songs from Kanye West’s 2016 album ‘Life of Pablo’. While Olivier has designed for the likes of Rihanna and Beyonce, it was just something about that 2016 era of Balmain that altered my brain chemistry and really made me pay attention to the French Fashion house. I am unashamed to admit that the Wolves campaign moved me so much that junior year Jemeryas would go custom content shopping, scouring Tumblr for replicas from that campaign that my sims could wear in the Sims 3. 

So yes, a true Stan through and through.

That being said this collection, which was showcased at the Grande Halle de la Villette, helped me see past my Western lens on fashion and culture, introducing me to the world of Sapeurs. Coming from La Sape or ‘Sapeur’ this fashion movement started in the heart of Brazzaville and Kinshasa as a way for it’s participants, who would work as gardeners, taxi drivers or day laborers, to begin finding upward social mobility and respect from colonial powers through their clothes. Further explanation of this history would be given by Tariq Zaire’s in his 2020 novel, “Sapeurs: Ladies and Gentlemen of the Congo.” Even though Sapeur was mainly embraced by men in the 1920s, it soon became a way of life for the people of Congo to express their individuality as well as a curated fashion sense and Rousteing, alongside his team of talented designers at Balmain, executed that vision beautifully. 

Initially the range of diversity in models for this show is something to marvel at. Models of different skin tones and backgrounds all get to be apart of this cultural unveiling to the West; a beautiful parade of suits with red-stained lipsticks coating the garments are the first to make their appearance on the runway. Lips would become a recurring motif throughout the show and, in my own interpretation, serve as a way for Rousteing to reclaim the stigma around the Black community and our lips. A stigma that would go all the way back to the days of Jim Crow when white actors would overdraw their lips in the color red to emulate a Black person. It is a subtle detail that, if not knowing Black history, you could miss. In the background thumping afro-beats, brought to you by popular Nigerian artist Wizkid, adds an even more colorful ambience to the show that gives male models a chance to showcase themselves on a new level of swag. Rousteing can be heard overhead at times discussing the people that he would encounter and draw inspiration from for this show. The vibrancy of some of these patterns would make me recall my review of PierPaolo and what he was aiming to achieve in his Valentino collection ‘Le Salon’, Rousteing however, takes that baton and exceeds all expectations, achieving what only so few designers can do, take a homogeny of colors and make it cohesive, while simultaneously honoring a culture unheard of by so many. My personal favorites being an orange ensemble that would feature Black silhouettes in green dresses, a Black, sequined blazer worn by model Mathieu Simoneau and others that are included in pictures below. I would also be remiss if I did not mention the gold facial accessories that send me running to the internet checking price points. I also accept gifts Olivier if you’re feeling generous. This accessory was most recognized by the media for being worn by Naomi Campbell who would go on to close the show wearing a beige trench and blouse with Black trousers and a bouquet of gold flowers as the literal centerpiece of the outfit.

And while Naomi would look stunning going across the room, this is the only critique that Rousteing would receive from me for this show. While watching I half-expected Alton Mason to make an appearance on the runway. This particular styling and art direction seems right on brand for the model who has been riding a high the past few years winning male model of the year back in 2021 and playing Little Richie in Baz Luhrmann’s “Elvis” in 2022. I personally believe that he has cemented himself as thee male supermodel of the 21st century so it would only make sense for Naomi’s protege to begin stepping into that calling fully. While I have followed Mason’s career for awhile now, back when he made his debut at the Tommy Hilfiger x Zendaya show, this would have been such a fantastic way for him to really show the fashion world that he is here to stay. I believe though this is a consistent problem that I see across the modeling world. The space, or lack thereof, for male supermodels. I think about myself growing up and the desire to get into modeling but unable to see anyone who looked like me, and was the same gender as me, in these spaces succeeding; and those that were didn't seem to last very long. I think what is needed from these big fashion houses is to be intentional and invest into the male supermodel and help push them into the mainstream, almost like Gianni Versace did with the supermodels of the late 90s, but that is another essay for another time.

Overall this show challenged all preconceived notions that I had coming in. Unsure of what I was going to be watching and not fully sold on how to write this, now having the opportunity to dive into the rich history that is La Sape and see the contributions given from the people of Congo being recognized to the Western world was a true delight. This collection, for me, continues to mark the creative genius that Rousteing has on the fashion world. For outstanding color combinations and the exploration of fashion history, particularly African fashion history, this show receives its 10’s across the board for me.

[zendayastylefiles]

Kinda crazy that Flo and Valentino’s pr teams would let that story run with the unnecessary shade thrown at Z. Very tacky very tasteless. And Flo better be buried in Valentino… that’s all I got to say

Honestly, that onus is more on The NY Times than it is on Florence Pugh and Pierpaolo Piccioli. I’ve been interviewed for a magazine before and I can say first hand that everything you see in print is heavily condensed and edited. It could have been a much longer interview and there could be more questions and answers given than what was actually included in the article. You never know how the article is going to turn out or what angle the editor wanted until it is published. I would not be surprised if the editor of the piece got a phone call from the publicists.

[svt-kiki]

( 🖇️ ) 𝐄𝐍𝐃𝐎𝐑𝐒𝐄𝐌𝐄𝐍𝐓 ⌅ .

as of august, 2024

3RD GEN IT GIRL ! 𓂃 .⠀࣪*

　unlike today’s 4th gen idol, kiki hadn’t gathered popularity immedietly after the debut. yes, she was known as her unmatched dance skills, but most people recognize her just because she was a only female member among the group, or the very first japanese female idol in kpop industry. in addition, many people thought she would dissapear from the group or public in couple years, because of her quite unique ‘position’ and concerns that were already in the group itself.

　however — surprisingly, she didn’t leaved the group. seventeen didn’t disband. no one never leaved the group. kiki started to blooming each year, step by step, like jun once said. is she a late bloomer? probably. but the flower she made was the most unique and sparkling art piece. now she understand her strongness, the charisma, and the possibility to become the main character not only in the room, but even nation and generation. she knows what she doing, she understands the elements and assignments, and lots of brands and designers love her because she pay attention to deatils and willing to study its history. or, world just can’t help but falling in love with her.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟨𝟩 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.) 　

　　　　　　　　›　𝐑𝐀𝐋𝐏𝐇 𝐋𝐀𝐔𝐑𝐄𝐍　‹

AMBASSADOR　OCT 2019 —

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR　MAR 2022 —

　guess what, she’s a human ralph lauren ! she has that preppy, old money aesthetic by nature. RL is the brand that gave his attention to kiki much earlier than others, and they build the special connection to each other. ralph treats her as their main issue since she pays attention to details of craftsmanship, history and collections. there is no doubt she’s a face of brand.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟦𝟫 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.)

　　　　　　　　　　›　𝐀𝐃𝐈𝐃𝐀𝐒　‹

AMBASSADOR　SEP 2020 —

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR　DEC 2022 —

she is a hard worker. it’s never easy to be the only female member among the mostly-boys big band. she trained herself to build her body so that she could complete the tour and live concerts with boys, and she was known for having a disciplined personal image for the public. she does dance a lot, work out a lot, so kiki is the perfect choice for the face of brand. she launched the limited collaboration line in summer, 2023 with the brand as ’kiki x adidas’ including track suits, sweat shirts and sneakers and it sold out within a day.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟧𝟫 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.)

　　　　　　　　　›　𝐕𝐀𝐋𝐄𝐍𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐎　‹　

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR　MAR 2022 —

her first achievement with grand maison ! mostly, she represents the later collection and aesthetics by valentino garavani himself in later 90s to early 00s. it’s needless to say that she’s the first kpop idol who associated officially with the brand, and that indicates that valentino taking her seriously. kiki drew attention especially her in recent ‘black tie’ collection. and even pierpaolo piccioli admitted she’s one of the inspiration ! suit and black tie are always her signature look, so it’s natural for them to chose kiki as a muse. although she has a contract with the brand, valentino hasn’t forced her to wear their piece every time.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟨𝟪 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.)

　　　　　　　　›　𝐂𝐀𝐋𝐕𝐈𝐍 𝐊𝐋𝐄𝐈𝐍　‹

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR　APR 2023 —

since she appeared in spring 2023 campaign, the famous jeans & underwear brand fell in love with her. not only jeans and underwear ( well she wasn’t comfortable to wearing just a pair of underwear in ads, so just a sport bra under the jacket that covered her cleavage ) but kiki loves the brand’s classic, sophisticated minimalism in 90s, pulled out vintage and archives and wear it in on and off. she has the class, and it looks really good on her.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟪𝟦𝟩 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.) 　

　　　　　　　　　 ›　𝐂𝐀𝐑𝐓𝐈𝐄𝐑　‹

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR　SEP 2023 —

　carats found out suddenly she appeared in the big billboard in the major cities around the world, wearing gold iconic jewelries, taken with a model in the same picture with relaxing expression. yes, it was the surprise announcement of kiki as a new face of cartier. she was known for using cartier watch for long time, carries two or three of it whenever she goes to oversea schedules, collecting some vintage watches. she is an ambassador for watch and jewelry. her favorites are standard tank louis with black belt and gold frame, and the love bracelet.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟩𝟪 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.)

　　　　　　　　　 ›　𝐕𝐄𝐑𝐒𝐀𝐂𝐄　‹

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR　APR 2024 —

　trust me, they are highly frustrated when valentino snatched her right under their nose lol. they have been inviting kiki to the collection since 2022 and they wanted her as an ambassador so bad. her persona as an idol and performer matches with brand’s lavish and luxury color so well ( speaking of her natural personality which is soft, calm character is ... maybe not so much ). she was thinking her presence would be a bit overwhelmed for versace’s couture like clothing would own her more than she owns it... but kiki became a woman who fits with their aesthetics more and more as she becoming confident as a ‘star’. as of april 2024, maison finally announced her as the face of brand with introducing kiki as an ambassador in new versace icon campaign besides cillian murphy and anne hathaway.

𝐂𝐀𝐌𝐏𝐀𝐈𝐆𝐍 𝐌𝐎𝐃𝐄𝐋 !

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟤𝟢𝟣𝟣 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.) 　

　　　　　　　　 ›　𝐓𝐀𝐌𝐁𝐔𝐑𝐈𝐍𝐒　‹

CAMPAIGN MODEL　SEP 2022 —

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟪𝟫𝟪 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.) 　

　　　　　　　　　 ›　𝐑𝐈𝐌𝐎𝐖𝐀　‹

CAMPAIGN MODEL　SEP 2023 —

𝐏𝐀𝐑𝐓𝐍𝐄𝐑𝐒𝐇𝐈𝐏𝐒 !

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟩𝟤 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.) 　

　　　　　　　›　𝐘𝐎𝐇𝐉𝐈 𝐘𝐀𝐌𝐀𝐌𝐎𝐓𝐎　‹

　he is indeed the one of the most greatest, phenomenal designer in the japanese fashion history. his first company that established in 1972 “Y’s” is under the concept of “women wearing men’s clothes”. it doesn’t remind someone? well, if there’s an one person who can go well with concept the most, it’s her. maybe kiki was the embodiment of the spirit he was looking for long time… and after all these years, she finally appeared in front of him.

　　　　　　　　　୨ৎ　—　𝟣𝟫𝟨𝟫 (𝖾𝗌𝗍.) 　

　　　　　　›　𝐂𝐎𝐌𝐌𝐄 𝐃𝐄𝐒 𝐆𝐀𝐑𝐂𝐎𝐍𝐒　‹

　now you can see kiki clearly has a passion for legend designers in japan… and the monochrome haha. rei kawakubo, the founder of the brand is also a big name in japanese fashion history like yohji yamamoto. their couture collections esp in 90s are still so odd, new, fun and refreshing to watch in present and she’s there for it. now carats literally betting what brand she will wore on her first met gala and come des garçons is a powerful candidate alongside these big names. ( aka carats are CRAVING for she goes there and makes fashion moment in the history because they know the girl won’t waste the opportunity )

also, she would love to work with thom browne, miss sohee, le fame, tanakadaisuke, and robert wun.

(    📁    )   :   NAVI   :  MASTER LIST     

(    tag list    )   :   @smh-anon @jennwonwoo @angie-x3

[modafactor]

MOODS AND MUSES: FASHION DESIGNERS AND THEIR MUSES

In the fashion world, designers would be not as successful without their muses, whose influence occasionally even shapes the trajectory of their work and careers.

Reference- https://www.elle.com.au/

With every great fashion moment, there's an iconic designer to thank, and some of the most prolific wardrobe moments in history were the result of a close companionship between designer and muse.

Take Bob Mackie, whose risqué work with Cher catapulted him to global superstardom, or Hubert de Givenchy, who crafted some of the most iconic looks worn by Audrey Hepburn—or in the modern day, Riccardo Tisci, who was one of the first high-fashion names to dress Kim Kardashian West when he was the creative director of Givenchy.

List of the most iconic designer/muse in history:

Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn.

Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux.

Karl Lagerfeld and Ines de la Fressange.

Riccardo Tisci and Kim Kardashian.

Jean Paul Gaultier and Madonna.

Monica Bellucci and Dolce&Gabbana.

Sofia Coppola and Marc Jacobs.

1. Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn

Hubert de Givenchy, the man behind the house of Givenchy, and actress Audrey Hepburn's relationship was one of the most successful designer/muse duos to date. Givenchy designed the iconic 'little black dress' worn by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, which cemented the actress as one of the most stylish women of the 20th century.

"His are the only clothes in which I am myself. He is far more than a couturier, he is a creator of personality," said Hepburn. The Breakfast at Tiffany's dress also helped Givenchy gain worldwide recognition, and his intricate, feminine designs became the subject of adoration.

2. Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux

Over the span of his working years, Yves Saint Laurent had many female muses, including the likes of Victoire Doutreleau and Paloma Picasso. However, there was one woman who stood out from the rest—model Betty Catroux. The two met in Paris in the early days of Laurent's career and soon became inseparable. Like many of Saint Laurent's muses, she retained a rebellious edge which inspired many of his designs, including the pantsuit.

3. Karl Lagerfeld and Ines de la Fressange

In 1982, Ines de La Fressange became the first model to sign an exclusive modelling contract with Chanel. Fressange became Lagerfeld's muse due to her uncanny resemblance to Coco Chanel, and soon became a popular figure in the fashion industry. In 1989, Lagerfeld and Fressange had an argument after she went to serve as a model for Marianne, the symbol of France.

However, the duo eventually reunited, and Fressange made her return to the Chanel runway at the brand's spring summer '11 show. 

4. Monica Bellucci and Dolce&Gabbana

Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce are long time personal friends with Monica,who they have chosen as their  muse long ago. As Stefano says himself: ‘She expresses perfectly the Dolce & Gabbana woman. She is ravishing – a true Italian icon.’ Domenico is just as complimentary about the actress and describes her beauty as ‘timeless’ and adding that she ‘never fails to inspire us.’

5. Pierpaolo Piccioli and Adut Akech

Piccioli's work as creative director of Valentino is highly acclaimed by fashion critics, and supermodel-in-the-making Adut Akech could be considered his main muse. 

Snap up apparel and accessories at- https://amzn.to/3awpXDh

[statemant]

SUNDAY STATEMANTS - NO 1

This post is a solution that I have reached few days ago – due to having almost no time to create posts daily (while I really want to share my option), I thought of making one (longer) post on every Sunday (which I have mostly free – except fashion months) and combine everything that happened in Menswear during the past week – let’s see how It works out. So,

What would be the better start for the new format than Paris Men’s Fashion Week, that has just recently finished (on Sunday according to official FHCM schedule but actually on Monday with JACQUEMUS show).

FACTS

Runway Shows: 60 (according to official schedule)

Presentations: 27 (according to offial schedule)

Total Looks: Around 3500

Yes, when you combine the numbers, there’re fascinating results – there were around 3500 looks offered – just for Men, just in Paris – that is around 12000 pieces of clothing, 3500 pairs of shoes, around 2000 accessories – a lot! Especially considering the fact that few brands produce very identical outfits (in terms of fabrics, styling, vibes) and there’s a rapidly rising competition at Men’s fashion market. Thanks god Paris is the most diversified of them all and I could name like like only 7-8 brands that does not really fit in the schedule (compared to other 50 brands) – either they look similar, or I don’t get them (my problem?).

PALOMO SPAIN   (18 June, 11:00)

The SS 2020 (that already sounds quite major itself) has started on Tuesday, 18th June, 11:00 AM with Palomo Spain (who returned in Paris after previous season’s try in NY) with some beautiful dresses – yes, you read it correctly. Designer thinks that none of the specific garments are made exclusilvey for any gender and that he sees many boys that could rock those chiffon garments – a significant part of the collection that was inspired by Pompeii.

BODE  (18 June, 12:00)

Emily Adams Bode has just recently won CFDA Award (Emerging Designer of the Year) and there she was at 12:00 AM (straight after Palomo) in Paris, sending the collection that was inspired by her family’s history as wagonmakers for Circus in the early 1900s. She literally looked at the outfits from century ago and re-made them to keep appropriate with time.

AMI   (18 June, 20:00)

My favorite Parisian house is becoming bigger and bigger every season (and it little bit worries me to be honest, strange no? Here’s why: what I always loved about AMI is that it’s one-off menswear-only brands that produces timeless men’s clothes in a very affordable prices (and in a perfect quality), everything in the collections always feels modern (with bit of a twist), the styling is always impeccable with unexpected colors combined together BUT! I kind of missed this in the latest collection, shown at Grand Palais, it felt little bit too dark and serious (especially for Summer collection), I’ve missed color and the sense of freshness. I did like what was shown, there is a lot I would wear myself (especially now when Black has become favorite of mine) but I kind of think I could find many of those pieces at other rival brands, I understand that now brand established itself and it just becomes matter of brand loyality, when you decide where to buy regular black trench coat - that’s where AMI is headed now I guess.

ACNE STUDIOS   (19 June, 15:30) 

With Ambition to Create Novel Expressions, Jonny Johansson (brand founder) presented the collection that felt little bit weird for me (a huge brand fan tbh). I totally loved the opening with beige shirt, styled with yellow scarf, but then I did not quite get printed cycling shorts, or lace insets, or pvc details (and bit more, tbh). It was kind of everything but kind of nothing notable (Luke Leith from Vogue Runway agrees), and I felt disappointed, especially after few very, very strong seasons and increasing fame (after so many years on the market). At least, some great blazers were there (thank god!).

J.W. ANDERSON   (19 June, 13:00) 

It’s a second time for Jonathan in Paris, after moving his namesake label from London (that probably made his 2 out of 3 famed iPhones busier than before). As one of the pioneers who pushed gender-fluid shapes since the very beginning of the career, designer has put signature pieces on the runway - including dresses worn by male models. Blazers and coats had wide shoulder extensions and pants included giant fringe insets. Some of the looks could be well-fitted at his Loewe (the show was day after this in the calendar) but this still feels ”harder” and more personal.

Y/PROJECT   (19th June, 14:30)

Y/Project shows feel like a hard mathematical induction, you need a time to realize the logic behind and “solve” it, or maybe you don’t. Glenn Martens once again proved that there’s no stopping of him and he is cementing the brand aesthetic with gigantic steps every single season. For SS 20 (after showing previous Menswear at Pitti) distortion and asymmetric proportions became even more solid and serious. How can you not love the incredible outerwear, tailored blazers, knitwear and jaw-dropping denim pants – each of them proving that you can combine ugly and beautiful in a very smart way. One could analyze every single look in details, but I bet it would take a lots and lots and lots of time. Additional drama was brought by Bizet's "L'amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle" in one of the Parisian churches. It’s clear that brand’s approach to clothes are not welcomed just by fashion insiders or avid trend followers anymore, it’s just for everyone who love “smart”, fashion-forward and beautiful outfits (even if most of them are everything but classic understanding of beauty). There’s always a surprise cut or detail hidden in most of the Y/Project pieces, once you buy the garment, you get the freedom and possibility to wear it on your own way – I’ve seen myself three men wearing same Y/Project pieces in a completely different way in a same day.

VALENTINO  (19 June, 17:30) 

Pierpaolo Piccioli is keeping the youthful attitude with the insertion of loud graphic prints (this time deisgned by Roger Dean) at Valentino Men’s collections (continued from previous season’s UNDERCOVER collaboration) while keeping brand staple shapes and cuts and not following any of the ongoing trends as much, even the VLTN logo was gone this time (which makes me very happy), replaced with single vintage V sign. The signature camouflage sneaker (my first ever most expensive fashion purchase back in 2012) got upgrade shown alongside with new shapes. Long live Mr. Pierpaolo!

RAF SIMONS   (19 June, 21:00)

Raf Simons clearly is not done with America. After leaving CALVIN KLEIN (end of 2018), it’s his second outing in Paris and I think he used this time to digest everything then to express all in his latest collection. It was very Raf, I feel like he was just being honest putting his feelings and thoughts as motifs (likes of: STONED AMERICA, etc) and showing that he was disappointed with America.

LOUIS VUITTON   (20 June, 14:30)

Virgil Abloh has invited guests at Place Dauphine (Remember Carrie Bradshow walking there in SATC) and offered LV branded wooden green benches, crepes and ice creams, alongside with the beautiful collection. It was clear – Virgil has settled at the house in a year, already has several signature shapes (and lots of accessories) and as he mentioned he just (or “just”) wants to present collections that will be consistent, will help more men express themselves (and he has a huge fandom in that area) and he won’t push the exact specific inspirations (remember Michael Jackson case from previous season?). Show featured some mind-blowing floral pieces (in a form of signature harness, hat and various embroidery) modern tailoring (note: the colors), lots of mixtures of work wear with formal wear and many, many bags (some really hardcore shapes). Originally, show was planned around Notre Dame, but it had to be changed due to the recent fire (although the cathedral was still present as a motif on some of the pieces). In a few words – there’s no stopping for Virgil Abloh and his “work”.

DRIES VAN NOTEN   (20 June, 16:30)

I can never describe my exact feelings about Dries. It means and express so much of everything for me. I just let clothes speak themselves – out of this world beauty, that is all things modern, masculine, sexy, sensual, rebellious, stylish - just b e a u t I f u l. Sometimes I cried…

VETEMENTS   (20 June, 20:00)

I, myself predicted year ago that Vetements could go to McDonald’s one day - and it actually happened today. Guests went to Champs-Elysees branch of the restaurant (biggest one in Paris) to see the show that did not really shock anyone but I guess still brought the excitement to them. Show featured all things Capitalism and more - re-worked famous logos (Likes of Heineken, Vodafone, Internet Explorer to name a few), police-branded bombers, signature flower prints and awkward quotes - everything VETEMENTS has became known For. After previous season’s dark extravaganza (my least favorite show of the brand), they kind of got back to the roots and put everyone’s favorite parody and sarcasm backed pieces. Does it felt new? Ofc No, but still you do not get the fashion show at McDonald’s everyday (or at all) and condom as an invitation, so the mission that means making fashion more fun and sarcastic (but still sell it expensive) was again completed. One of the most interesting quotes that Demna Gvasalia has mentioned to Sarah Mower_ is that he always wanted to have his own celebration at McDonalds since 1997, when McD has opened in Tbilisi, Georgia (and I also remember that very day like it was yesterday, how happy I was to hold Happy Meal menu in my hands there) but he could complete it oy now, in Paris. I can’t stop loving the Gvasalias, for making my country on an international map by showcasing its darkest secrets to everyone!

BERLUTI   (21 June, 13:00)

It’s Kris Van Assche’s 2nd runway show at Berluti and we kind of see where he is going - positioning brand as impeccable (quality-wise) tailor-maker with an youthful, modern touch (mostly expressed in vibrant colors of formal clothing alongside with layered styling). Featuring older models on the runway is a message that Berluti does not forget about mature customers but wants them to look modern. Despite the very strong comptetition in this particular niche (Dior Men's and Louis Vuitton Men's in the same holding as Berluti, LVMH), there's always a need for a good (and fashion-forward) tailoring.

JIL SANDER   (21 June, 15:00)

If you thought Jil Sander could not get more sensitive and delicate, here you go with latest collection, as designers Lucie and Luke Meiers (wife and husband) mentioned in an interview with Alex Badia, they are showing their vision of tailoring, how they feel about the it and offering new ways of wearing it and it just feels right! I kind of feel the duo’s takeover at Jil Sander is still underrated and they are actual creators of the modern but absolutely timeless fashion!

SSS WORLD COPR   (20 June, 11:00)

t’s a daddies world! Justin O’Shea keeps the dandy aesthetic and crazy prints on top of his brand, always showcasing at the fanciest locations of Paris - this time at Ritz, casting some really hot models who are actually various sport (boxing among them) athletes and maybe thats why all the extravagant prints felt more real and wearable than before. And I bet many of you saw the O’Shea serving the guests himself by champagne at the start and taking the bow while he was riding a bike - very casual, indeed.

DIOR MENS   (21 June, 18:00)

Mr. Kim Jones was man of the hour (or the season) once again. He killed it 3rd time. With his couture-approach to the Men’s clothing (with continuous revisiting Dior’s women archives, especially Haute Couture alongside with John Galliano creations) and collaboratiosn with the hottest creative minds of the moment, Jones is just writing down history of modern menswear. This time it was Daniel Arsham, whom Kim contacted year ago with a request and to put his unique approach to the Dior pieces. Known formanipulating and reinterpreting existing materials and structures, Arsham has clearly engaged with Dior aesthetics and we have got some really extreme accessories (with Yoon Ambush included in the work). Appears, it’s not first time for Arsham working for Dior – back in 2005, Hedi Slimane commissioned him to design Dior’ Homme’s LA flagship. Wll, I just think of time, when they let Kim Jones take over entire Dior house (with rumors on Maria Grazia heading to Fendi after SS 20 show).

GmbH   (21st June, 19:00)

Did you notice the evil eye? Hard not to! Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby literally decided to ”protect” models (and then customers) from the misfortune but making it look fashionable and wearable. Featuring the usual diverse and exotic casting, GmBH presented their best to date (imo) collection at the National Institute of Young Deaf People in Paris. It was all things GmbH does the best - tailoring mixed with sportswear paired with both formal and Asics collaboration shoes - and everything being as vegan as possible. Designer duo rapidly took the spot for one of the most anticipated shows at PFW and with every season they are showing a very logical development in all areas. They’ve easily made some of their signatures well-recognisable: would this be a double-zipper denim or their logo-branded pieces and now the broader introduction of accessories, they will surely strengthen their space in buyers order sheets and customers wallets - and the strange magical effect of the ”evil eye” should actually play the significant role.

SIES MARJAN   (22 June, 13:00)

Sander Lak is the latest designer to move from NY to Paris (a step that has not been effective for Proenza or Rodarte, but still works for Altuzarra) and take Opera Bastille as a location for its debut Parisian show. Starting from knitted jampsuit (season’s trend) continued with beautiful segment of beiges (denim and cotton) and colorful crocodile-effect faux leather outwear, show also included variations on zebra print. Most of the pieces felt quite gender-fluid - all the pieces that were worn by male models could be well put on 6 females that also walked the show. Except SS 2020, show also featured Fall 2019 capsule pieces that will be available for purchase now. It all felt very modern and easily wearable - everything we all need now.

OFFICINE GENERALE   (23 June, 10:00)

Peter Maheo always serves us with delightful Sunday morning breakfasts in Paris – no, there are no croissants or chocola-chauds, but some really chic Men’s clothes. I could spend entire Spring wearing the show’s opening look (mint tailored duo), or the second look, and third, and all of the 45 others. I love how Officine Generale has kept it consistent and doe not tries hard to present gimmicks that you can never wear – I just want them all!

LANVIN   (23 June, 11:00)

After all the past year’s shake-overs at LANVIN , it seems that brand is on the way to settle and reboots itself with a fresh new page. Will this become a successful book tome? Only time will tell, but the foreword looks promising. It was a first Men’s show for house’s new creative director, Bruno Sialelli (who went from Loewe) and what he presented to audience made everyone think about only one thing – holidays! Staged around one of Parisian public pools, the show featured everything (and more) you associate with holidays – nautical stripes, bucket hats, sailor collars and even sleeping bags – white and blue shades dominated. LANVIN men now also wears printed sequin dress, azur intarsia knit jacket on a naked body and lots of baggy jumpsuits – and it all feels very young and naïve.

ALYX   (23 June, 19:00)

Can we call it the coolest show of the season? It just amazes me how Matthew Williams managed to put the brand on top of the current fashion industry in such a short time. I guess the quality that you can feel all around the brand and a dedication that Matthew and her wife Jennifer Williams (who walked the show actually) put in their brand (they have moved from NY to Ferrara, Italy to oversee brand’s production in the local factories). The collection featured sharp and sophisticated shapes. Started with classy suits and quite sexy (women’s especially) looks, show continued with signature streetwear vibe, but it also felt very, very sophisticated and elegant (and that’s not wrong for streetwear, at all), outerwear was to die for - crocodile effect rubber-like coat just nailed it!

CELINE   (23 June, 20:00)

With the second standalone Men’s show under the label, Hedi Slimane has presented “nostalgia for things I probably have never known” (read embroidery on a tote bag). It was classic Hedi (and it’s now a definition of particular style, not a single designer aesthetic), classic 70’s but felt still modern for me (and many argue on that). There’s clearly a huge market for what he is doing and with Saint Laurent making shifts to detach itself from Hedi (and CELINE as a brand), sales should be heading to the desired peak (LVMH plans to double brand sales with the help of Hedi in a short time).

JACQUEMUS   (24 June, 17:00)

Do we need to say anything more on this show?

- - -

it was a season of SS 2019 (in June 2018) that made a huge breakthrough in Menswear – that was when Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh both had a debut seasons at Dior and Louis Vuitton and when Raf Simons returned to Paris – the craze that you could feel in Paris those days was insane, that was when everyone agreed that Menswear has its notable importance and it’s only gonna rise with every new season – with SS 2020 being fantastic continuation for that.

Oh and almost every designer mentioned how they are trying to be more sustainable, nature-friendly, gluten-free, etc…

[atenderofsycamoretrees]

Who are some designers who could be good but waste their potential? They release mediocre collections except for 3 perfect pieces. Their HC collections are overblown and unedited but their Target collab is amazing. Etc.

oh my god dude. i mean obviously dennis basso, who is hurting my feelings more and more with every collection. frankly i think zuhair murad is the biggest offender just because he ISN’T TRYING. bibhu mohapatra is really good but overdesigns to an extent that is really frustrating.

alberta ferretti’s insistence on doing daywear when she is capable of making fantastic gowns. actually pierpaolo piccolini is doing that at valentino right now too and it makes me nuts. i hate this idea that luxury fashion should be minimal and blend in, the whole concept of the designer white t-shirt. if you’re paying thousands of dollars for something i think it should look like a fucking fairytale gown.

i always tag alexis mabille as my problematic fave because he is talented but works with really unforgiving shapes and fabrics. i actually think this is true of zac posen too and i think it’s why he went out of business. he’s currently designing for brooks brothers and the limitations placed on him there actually really force him to create better, more curated looks, imo.

i think daniel rosenberry at schiaparelli could stand to go much weirder than he does. schiaparelli is a brand known for surrealism but he’s been leaning hard on making more conventional clothing but super weird accessories, which makes sense from a business perspective because people can wear a schiaparelli dress and look elegant and normal but weird it up with nipple earrings if they want. however, from a me perspective, i feel cheated.

vera wang is doing a lot of weird beige tulle creations, but as someone who learned about her from her all-red bridal collection i wish she would play with colors more.

i’ve never hated simone rocha or anything, but she just did an h&m collab that is really nice -- i feel like the need for it to be sellable reigned in some of her less wearable tendencies and so the collab ended up being super nice. she usually likes volume and kind of cocoon shapes but this line is more streamlined.

as a general rule of thumb, though, any time a brand is like “we’re going to make more conventional sellable stuff” i am disappointed, because i prefer things to skew towards drama and weirdness.

i pretty much hate any time designers do disney collaborations. i don’t like the use of cartoon characters in prints and i also dislike disney making even more money off its ip. this is just my opinion, though -- there’s nothing wrong with cartoon prints, they just aesthetically are very much not my thing.

i’m not calling any brands to mind rn, but every season there are 15 or so lines that produce collections that are super mediocre except for one great dress. i used to collect all those “one good piece” photos and just make a giant tumblr post for them, but i didn’t really like those posts because they weren’t very cohesive. the aesthetics of all the different brands never married into a single post well. but definitely that is a thing.

[the-fashiongeek-blog1]

S/S ’19 in Review; The Big Three

    Pop culture is littered with references to the fashion industry. Even if someone doesn’t know the history or signatures of a brand, they might still recognize that brand’s name. Valentino is a luxury staple, but the younger generation probably knows the name best for an entirely different reason. (“L-lipstick? In my Valentino white bag?!”) American Horror Story and Halsey alike have referenced Balenciaga. And Chanel, well, it’s Chanel. What more is there to say? These three are, arguably, some of the most widely-known names and biggest brands both inside and outside the world of fashion.

    …And they’re three brands I wouldn’t generally consider myself a fan of. Valentino used to be one of my favorites, but I just haven’t been as interested in the house as of late. Sorry, Pierpaolo, but I’m team MCG. (That being said, I think they both did their strongest work when they were partnered together.) Likewise, I think Balenciaga had a good thing going with Ghesquière and Wang, but lost me at Gvasalia. Chanel, however, has never really counted me amongst their fans.     That’s all well and good - I’m probably not their target demographic and fashion’s all about differing styles anyway. These brands certainly wouldn’t be as substantial as they are without a significant, steady, devoted client base. It’s a matter of personal opinion. For me, these three brands have consistently ranked among my least favorite shows for the last several seasons now. However, in a Shaymalan-style twist, all three of their most recent collections wound up on my favorites list. Not terribly high up, mind, but the fact that I enjoyed them alone was enough to surprise me. I can only hope these brands continue to craft collections like these.

—VALENTINO     As I mentioned above, Valentino used to be one of my favorite brands. The team of Pierpaolo Piccoli and Maria Grazia Chiuri was almost unstoppable. I say almost because there were a few collections they showed during their collaborative tenure that were complete misses for me. Still, their last couture collection together remains one of my all-time favorites and I don’t think I’ll ever stop obsessing over their rock stud shoes. After MGC’s departure, I found that I’m not so much a fan of Pierpaolo’s aesthetic. His color sense tends to leave me confused and, as someone with a rather petite frame, I gravitate towards a more fitted silhouette. And while his clothes are generally meant for an older clientele, his runway casts are filled with the newest (and often, youngest), faces of the season, which creates a sense of dissonance in the presentations.     This collection resolved many of my complaints about prior seasons. Yes, the looks were generally monochromatic, but none of the colors had that sickly undertone that’s run through Pierpaolo’s other collections. The maroon-and-pumpkin combo was particularly lovely, if a bit more F/W than S/S. While I wasn’t a fan of the multicolored prints, I didn’t enjoy the less colorful variants either, so it may have just been the print itself. Prints are a hard sell for me, and this one was just a little too dated. I did, however, enjoy look 43. It was an interesting take on the print, though I think there might’ve been one two many disparate colors in the garment with nothing to tie them together.     The silhouettes in this collection still had plenty of volume, but they found a way to flatter the body underneath. This is probably due to Pierpaolo’s use of lighter-weight fabrics this season. Chiffon has more movement, and when the wearer walks, will show hints of the body beneath. The sheerness of the material also has the same effect. The taffeta he’s used in previous seasons will do neither. His use of pleating on certain pieces was also beautiful, particularly on the pieces with higher waistlines. There were some looks, most notably the opening number, that had similar volumes of fabric to prior collections. However, this was less bulky and more refined than looks he’s shown in the past. Kristen McMenamy didn’t look like she was drowning in fabric; she looked like she was reveling in it.     Speaking of everyone’s favorite silver-haired model, the cast was wonderful this year. There were still many new faces, but there were some more well-established models as well, such as Liu Wen, Meghan Collison, and Mariacarla Boscano. While it isn’t much, this cast had wider age range than most other shows this season. It successfully highlighted the greater age range appeal in this collection’s clothes. Heck, I would wear at least half the pieces that went down the runway. (Maybe just not those feather duster shoes.)

—BALENCIAGA     First things first; we need to talk about that set design. Installation art is one of my favorite mediums, even if it’s often pretty hit or miss. Andy Goldsworthy is one of my favorite artists, but half of the Dia Beacon was lost to me. Jon Rafman’s projections fall decidedly into the former category. Perhaps it was due to how strongly the artist’s intentions came through. Sure feels like the world’s on fire right now, doesn’t it? The installation was not only immersive, even from the other side of a computer screen, but added to the collection as well.     I actually…really liked a lot of the pieces in the collection? It’s written as a question because I’m still surprised, to be honest. While I like the occasional garment from Vetements (particularly the reimagined denim), Gvasalia’s main line isn’t really my thing. Even moreso at Balenciaga, where I’m still mourning the loss of two of my favorite designers in a row. Last season, my impressions of the pieces ranged from utterly forgettable to downright hilarious. There were similar pieces in this collection, but I felt they worked better here. Whether it was the material, the tailoring, or some other part of the design process, the exaggerated silhouette of the coats didn’t feel as cartoonish this time. In some cases, it was actually flattering. I also enjoyed the draped crushed (and uncrushed) velvet tops and dresses - though the cut of look 35’s neckline did something strange proportions-wise. (The pants they were paired with were quite nice as well.) On the other hand, the use of differently-sized squares on the checker print in look 41 was brilliant.     Unfortunately, not all of the looks were wins. Many of the garments just read as basics; collared shirts, straight-legged trousers, etc. Then there were some pieces that just seemed to be cut wrong. At first I thought it was a case of strange styling, a la Gvasalia’s F/W ’17 collection for the brand. Upon closer inspection, I’m not so sure. Have you ever worn a top where the shoulders aren’t in the right place and find yourself constantly shifting around like that will somehow make it fit better? There were several pieces that appeared to be cut that way intentionally (see looks 29 and 45). Some looks had oversized collars, worn popped up so you could get a better glance at just how big they were. Look 64, however, just appeared to be tailored wrong. Trust me, I’ve made plenty of big, stand-up collars for cosplays in my time and messed up nearly all of them. This is what it looks like when you cut the bottom of the collar too wide and the top to short. The fit on the slip dresses was also strange. Between the print and the circular neckline, they looked like shower curtains. Also, having the brand’s tag sitting up vertically on the shoulders of some pieces also felt like conspicuous consumption, but I guess it’s just Balenciaga hopping onto the logo mania trend.     There are a few more complaints I had for the collection, but I’ll reserve them. This is a post about collections I enjoyed, after all. This made the list, and not without reason. I would actually wear a majority of the pieces, which is more than I can say about previous years. And while there may have been cut and tailoring issues, the draping was lovely. Some of the gowns and shirt dresses were pretty brilliant. Moreover, I can see quite a few of these dresses on a red carpet. Black tie isn’t something I’ve seen from Gvasalia’s Balenciaga since that F/W ’17 show I mentioned earlier. And, to be honest, I’m actually looking forward to it.

—CHANEL     Let me start this off by saying; I am not Chanel’s ideal client. Price tag not withstanding, I’m just not a fan of adding extra bulk to my hips, much less hiding my figure completely. Also, I really don’t like tweed. So it probably isn’t a huge shock that a tweed-light collection made up of lighter materials piqued my interest. At the very least, it was a pleasant surprise. Recently, I feel as though Karl Lagerfeld has been taking Chanel in a different direction and I’m interested to see where it goes. The pieces in the collection felt aimed towards a wide variety of buyers for a wide variety of occasions - even if the astonishing set did imply it was everyone was beach-bound. The color pallet was, for the most part, light and fun. It did get overwhelming sometimes, particularly in some of the print pieces. However, it never felt particularly dreary.     As I implied a little earlier, I’m not the biggest fan of logos on clothes. Even in my long-passed middle school years, when Abercrombie and Hollister reigned supreme, something about it irked me. If I was paying more for a clothing item, I wanted it to be for the design of the item itself, not the name plastered on front. And I didn’t feel like playing walking billboard for a company with millions to spend on advertising. The current logomania trend just feels like repeating history, except with more conspicuous consumption. To say nothing about his work over at Fendi, I think Lagerfeld actually did something really neat with the Chanel logo in this collection. The two separated syllables were everywhere from the breast pockets of a chic cropped blouse to the front and back flaps of a deerstalker cap.     Unfortunately, one of the most interesting things about the collection is also related to one of it’s biggest faults. Someone on Twitter wrote that it used to be designers creating trends for influencers, and now it’s become influencers creating trends for designers. That was never more apparent than on the runways this season. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing (particularly if this phenomenon can be harnessed for positive change), but it does have one obvious downside; if everyone is influenced by the same thing, then their collections will all look the same. How many pairs of bike shorts did you see on this season’s runways? And how about fanny packs the season before? I am willing to cut Chanel a little slack for the bike shorts thing. Several seasons ago, I remember seeing perennial Lagerfeld muse, Kristen Stewart, arrive to one of his shows in a jumpsuit that was bike short length. In fact, the length has been a staple in Chanel silhouettes for years. This collection, however, included actual bike shorts. Eh, I’ll give this one a pass. Those double cross-body bags and the swimsuit-as-a-top look on the other hand…     And I know this is a lot of complaining about a show I said I liked, but there is one more point I want to make; tweed. Sure, there wasn’t a lot of it compared to other seasons, it just felt off in some looks. I’m not suggesting Lagerfeld ditch the textile altogether - it’s a Chanel staple and he’s probably contractually obligated to produce X amount of tweed suits a year. However, there were some places where it just didn’t work. A bathing suit cover-up, for instance, has no business being that heavy outside the omni-seasonal universe of It Follows. There were also several pairs of wide-legged pants with slits up the front made of tweed or other weighty fabrics. The slit is meant to introduce movement and flow to the garment, but these fabrics are just too stiff. Compare looks 41 and 58 to look 77. Chiffon just flows better and gives the garment an easier feeling overall.     All of the closing looks were quite nice, actually. (With the exception of the strange silhouette of 75). What can I say? I’m a sucker for black and Chanel does LBDs like no one else. What was also quite lovely were all the little details in the collection. The embroidery on the top of look 35 was beautiful, even compared to the beautiful embroidery in featured in other looks. I also really enjoyed the seams on the jeans of look 53. I even liked the silhouettes of some of the oversized blazers. Finally, there was Adut Aketch closing her second Chanel show in a row. She looked lovely, her dress was lovely, the set was lovely. Um, can it be summer again yet?

[jemeryas]

Valentino's 'Le Salon' is a Lesson in Regressive Storytelling

I never know what to expect when it comes to Valentino and this past Haute Couture show titled ‘Le Salon’ proved why I am so critical towards the current state of fashion. The livestream premieres with flashing lights from Place Vendôme in Paris, France as notable guest like Florence Pugh, Kris and Kylie Jenner also featuring Kylie’s daughter Stormi and founding house father Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani decked in a burgundy velvet suit that gives off exactly what Nicki Minaj would say a lot of you people can’t spell. Couth. 

But the second the circus was over and everyone had taken their seats the real show began. Burgundy seems to be a common color scattered throughout shows recently that I am slowly becoming rather fond of. The color reminding me of the Christmas sweater that Mrs. Weasley would make every year for her son Ron Weasley in the films. It is that kind of consistent love that I am beginning to associate with this color. I am sure that nearly every Harry Potter fan will understand what I am trying to describe. Continuing on an Italian aria echos as the models continue walking down the runway. Tombstone grays paired with egg yolk yellows or neon oranges is only something PierPaolo, the current creative director of Valentino, could envision being paired together. Does that mean that all the silhouettes are terrible? Absolutely not! A dress that was worn by Florence Pugh for her Australian Vogue November issue, and that I would have the fortune of featuring on my own tiktok page, would make an appearance; proving the point in my Dior Couture review that certain pieces would look better on a fuller-sized model and Pugh perfectly captures that look. 

Yet as the show continued on there were only a few more pieces that would capture my eye. A turquoise evening gown brought a smile to my face as I watched a dark skinned model sporting a shaved head, a quicker-than-lightening attitude and a walk with so much elegance that you couldn’t help but give a small, “you better go girl,” under your breath. The gown only an added accessory to the model. This is the type of energy, I realize, is missing from the runway scene. A lack of personality. I guess we can blame Prada for that one, but that’s for another essay. 

The show continued on in tulles, sequins and unique pairings that again, some may say is a work of genius, but I would have to disagree. Now, do not mistaken my disdain for Le Salon as disdain for the creative director. The L’Ecole show still holds a special place in my heart and is shelved right in my top two alongside the Pink PP collection. However, coming off the heels of an amazing show like L’Ecole I had high hopes to see what PierPaolo would showcase and was let down in a tremendous way. In terms of music and performance, I loved the traditional Italian Opera, but when you compare that to, what can only be described as a spiritual conversion to the world of FKA Twigs, I don’t think a younger demographic would care too much for this show once they hear the music. The clothes were, at best, in-cohesive; and at worst, a dumpster fire of the worst color combos you could put together. But just as I was about to write the rest of this show off, Black silhouettes made their appearance and I paused to watch. Each look channeling something that was made specifically for the femme fatale. The Black Swan of her family. I was hooked but by that point the show was over and I was left feeling…underwhelmed. 

In terms of artistry and storytelling this was not it Valentino and PierPaolo. I know that I was a fan of the burgundy and the Blacks but the few good  pieces that were in those colors were so far in between that it just wasn’t enough to save them this time around. The ten’s are replaced with the 6’s in my book for color crimes against humanity. But again, don’t crucify me, this is just my opinion. It’s not like I am Anna Wintour…yet.

[loftstudios]

This could easily be the face of an angel! But Mariacarla Boscono is just a normal working girl. Albeit a 5′10 Italian supermodel who has been shot for most of the major fashion houses including  Chanel, Moschino, Etro, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Diesel, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano, Hermes, Lanvin, Loewe, Prada, Pucci, Missoni and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Most recently she was the face of Bottega Veneta, Vera Wang and Oscar de la Renta's Fall/Winter campaigns, and last year she held a star studded party to celebrate twenty years in the fashion industry. 

Aged 37, the Italian born beauty was discovered by one of her parents friends when he came over for a dinner party, and he encouraged her to give modelling a whirl. And since then she has never looked back. 

Having worked with all the supers of the nineties- Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Gisele Bündchen, Kristen McMenamy, Stella Tennant- she still crosses paths with them, although she is now juggling modelling as a single mother; But being best friends with designer Riccardo Tisci (ex Givenchy) means that she will always be at the cutting edge of fashion.

Her schedule is still so intense, she just got shot for the cover of the March issue of S Moda in London, before she jetted off to sunnier climes for the rest of the shoot. 

Credits

S Moda Magazine, March 2018

Photographer: Cuneyt Akeroglu

Fashion Editor/Stylist: Natalia Bengoechea

Hair: Pierpaolo Lai

Makeup Artist: Helena Komarova 

Casting Director: Anissa Payne

Model: Mariacarla Boscono

By Sara Darling

27.2

[hotteetrend]

Disney Dory Fish Im Never Drinking Again Oh Look Wine shirt

I first met him in Disney Dory Fish Im Never Drinking Again Oh Look Wine shirt . 1968 in Rome,” Collins said post-event, this morning, over email. “I was looking for something to wear at a TV appearance and someone suggested a new young designer who would be happy to dress me. Since then, Signor Garavani and I have been very close friends and have enjoyed collaborating together. He’s designed several outfits for my movies and TV appearances throughout the decades, which I hope now to continue with his deserving successor Pierpaolo.” Disney Dory Fish Im Never Drinking Again Oh Look Wine shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt

Classic Ladies

Hoodie

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Unisex And so she has, starting last night with, in Collins’s words, the “elegant, royal, glamorous, magical” Pierpaolo Piccioli–designed gown Disney Dory Fish Im Never Drinking Again Oh Look Wine shirt . The process all started, according to the actress, “two months ago, when Pierpaolo started to send me several wonderful sketches and we spoke almost on a daily basis to fine-tune the design.” Collins notes of her plumed ensemble, “He must have thought I was mad because I insisted on more and more feathers!” The look certainly spoke to Susan Sontag’s note that camp is “a woman walking around in a dress made of three million feathers.” For Collins, whose hair and makeup for the red carpet was done by stylist Joey Maalouf, it was also about the tiny glittering crown atop her head: “What’s more camp than a tiara?”When it was time for Collins to walk into the gala with her new friend and fashion fairy godfather Piccioli, she thought lovingly about her long history with Garavani and realized the moment, after years of dressing in Valentino—both for the red carpet and onscreen—was nothing short of “surreal.” It was also, she said, “very hard to maneuver 50 pink steps in a massive skirt and 5-inch heels.” If anyone could pull off such a feat in Valentino Couture, it’s Collins—with a little help from the divine spirit of Alexis Carrington, of course. You Can See More Product: https://trendteeshirts.com/product-category/trending/ Read the full article

[statemant]

WHAT TO EXPECT FROM PARIS FASHION WEEK SS 2019 - PART 2

Some of you may already have seen my post about upcoming Paris Fashion Week here featuring most anticipated shows of the calendar, but there’s so much more happening in Paris next week, that I could not just miss them without any mention. So, find below what are the shows to look forward in a few days:

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Dries is absolute king of Paris Fashion Week for me, especially during Menswear. His shows just go with a one full breath. It’s not just about the pieces or the particular look at Dries, it’s about entire vibe and emotion coming from the very personal offerings that designer shows. I think I can't say anything that can make you love him more, because I am sure he is already on top of my and true fashion lovers minds! With recent news that after 30 years of independence, Dries Van Noten has sold majority stake to Spanish fashion group PUIG (Puig already owns the labels Jean Paul Gaultier, Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci and Paco Rabanne). I hope that this move does not "hurt" the brand as much and won't kill Dries's design inspirations. But before that, remember, jut when you need little bit of an inspiration expressed in fablous outfits go to 7 Quai Malaquais, Dries store, located along the Seine river, just like I do multiple times during my week-long stays in Paris. Can not wait for another incredible show (and hopefully not last "real" Dries) on 21st of June.

COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS 

Can I just say - COMME des GARÇONS, COMME des GARÇONS, COMME des GARÇONS - Last season, it came as a shock when we learned that majority of the pieces shown on the runway (like the one below) were turned out, so all we saw was just a lining! I can not wait to be amazed million times, this season!

VALENTINO

Valentino is a very special brand to me - it’s connected with my first ever major fashion show attendance, first ever luxury purchase, personal experiences with their designers (which you can read here) so I am always excited to go there. What the duo Maria & Pierpaolo and now latter one alone did for the brand is absolutely magical! Last seasons, more millennial-oriented VLTN offering was another fact how Piccioli keeps the brand of the moment, but still maintains codes of the house, which we all love!

THOM BROWNE

How often do we see man wearing heels? He just never ceases to amaze us with unexpected showing, which no one can blame, always showing that gender is not an issue while wearing particular piece of clothing, even though offered in classic men’s clothing materials, he has adopted traditional womenswear shapes to the male body! Excited to see what he is going to offer this time!

OFF-WHITE

Virgil Abloh has his biggest year, with his Louis Vuitton appointment (read here) and various collaborations popping up here and there. Although all eyes are on his LV debut, there’s Off-White SS 2019 collection show just 1 day before a big event. Being one of the most demanded brands on the current luxury streetwear market, it’s always interesting to see what he is going to put in “caps” next.

ACNE STUDIOS

Swedish fashion house has recently switched to the January/June calendar format, with the aim to deliver new collections earlier in their stores, although still keeps Mens and Womens presentations separately, in the same week. Masters of high-quality, everyday wear in incredible colors and often in oversized shapes, are on top of every true fashion insiders and outsiders hearts. 

OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE

Like a Garcon - representation of the stylish French guy’s look, who is well-dressed but not better than a French lady - essentials at its best. Desicribed as “beautiful normality” by the designer Pierre Mahéo, Officiene serves as a great breakfast for Sunday mornings at Mens Fashion Week. Below image, from SS 18, held at courtyard of the Lycée Henri-IV, was all about color-coordinated outfits, which may seem boring for some (as I’ve heard after the show) but still very on-point for me!

OAMC After spending 10 years working for Supreme, designer Luke Meier has launched own label OAMC (currently one of the most talked-about brands on a Menswear scene). Luke’s interests both in the streets and savoir-faire results in well-engineered separates and statemant outwear. 

SACAI

Before the closure, Parisian store Colette has dedicated it’s entire 2nd floor to a Sacai takeover among the major brands like Chanel, Balenciaga or Saint Laurent – which once again shows how important Sacai brand is to the fashion world and market. They always have a gender-less looks which usually carry a perfect balance between streetwear and more designer-y fashion – especially my favorite jackets that are timeless.

CERRUTI 1881

Since the childhood, when they’ve first opened CERRUTI 1881 store in my home town, Tbilisi, on my mind, it was always a brand you could go for a high quality classics that office guys wear and look great – I think it still is but for SS 2018 I saw many of the cool outfits, offered on the runway that many fashion-forward (but still preferably classy-looking) guys would wear with a pleasure!

ÉTUDES

An ode to Paris - that’s what lies behind the ongoing inspiration of Etudes. After a revamp that happened to the house seasons go, you can already spot Études logo sweats or caps at major street style reports. I think designers are slowly cementing their vision to the menswear scene and they’re doing it right!

LANVIN

It’s been 10 years now, since Lucas Ossendrijver works behind Lanvin Menswear and he is among few designers who has been very consistent throughout the seasons. Even during the golden era under Alber Elbaz (Womenswear), Lanvin’s Menswear was never overshadowed, cause it always kept the game on a high note. 

PAUL SMITH

For a few seasons row, Paul Smith will show it’s co-ed (Men’s and Women’s) show. As he mentions, this gives him a chance to work on a women’s pieces with the same effort as on men’s and it looks better on the runway, as well. For me, Paul Smith was always a perfect go-to brand for affordably luxe shoes and they still look perfect after many years.

JUUN. J

I could easily call a brand (especially previous season’s co-ed Womens & Mens show) an unisex label – there were lot worn by woman that men could rock, or vice versa. I am usually sucker of shirting and playing with it – so I can’t wait to see the Spring offering.

SEAN SUEN

Previous Summer was a very pastel-colored show, inspired by the works of German artist Daniel Sinsel. Sean Suen is a brand to watch this time around – a contemporary men’s wardrobe with lots of oversized and sleek fabric-made pieces.

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I first met him in Never underestimate a woman who understands football and loves Baltimore Ravens shirt . 1968 in Rome,” Collins said post-event, this morning, over email. “I was looking for something to wear at a TV appearance and someone suggested a new young designer who would be happy to dress me. Since then, Signor Garavani and I have been very close friends and have enjoyed collaborating together. He’s designed several outfits for my movies and TV appearances throughout the decades, which I hope now to continue with his deserving successor Pierpaolo.” Never underestimate a woman who understands football and loves Baltimore Ravens shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt

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Unisex And so she has, starting last night with, in Collins’s words, the “elegant, royal, glamorous, magical” Pierpaolo Piccioli–designed gown Never underestimate a woman who understands football and loves Baltimore Ravens shirt . The process all started, according to the actress, “two months ago, when Pierpaolo started to send me several wonderful sketches and we spoke almost on a daily basis to fine-tune the design.” Collins notes of her plumed ensemble, “He must have thought I was mad because I insisted on more and more feathers!” The look certainly spoke to Susan Sontag’s note that camp is “a woman walking around in a dress made of three million feathers.” For Collins, whose hair and makeup for the red carpet was done by stylist Joey Maalouf, it was also about the tiny glittering crown atop her head: “What’s more camp than a tiara?”When it was time for Collins to walk into the gala with her new friend and fashion fairy godfather Piccioli, she thought lovingly about her long history with Garavani and realized the moment, after years of dressing in Valentino—both for the red carpet and onscreen—was nothing short of “surreal.” It was also, she said, “very hard to maneuver 50 pink steps in a massive skirt and 5-inch heels.” If anyone could pull off such a feat in Valentino Couture, it’s Collins—with a little help from the divine spirit of Alexis Carrington, of course. You Can See More Product: https://kingteeshops.com/product-category/trending/ Read the full article

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Lion fall for Jesus he never leaves shirt

Balenciaga’s extremely long show did make some sense Lion fall for Jesus he never leaves shirt . As designer Demna Gvasalia had described his collection as an ode to customers. You could imagine a video of the show playing on a loop in his stores, where they could pick out looks and wear them as the models did. But in person at the show, the lighting made it tough to make out much of the detail. The silhouettes seemed to shift on the axis from horizontal to vertical, meaning the over-wide shoulders of seasons past had shifted to extra-long coats for fall. Another group of jackets had stiffly crimped shoulders, as if they still had the hangers in them. Lion fall for Jesus he never leaves shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt

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Unisex Then came a passage of bright monochromatic knits, dresses, and tops with hoops woven into the necklines, making the wearers look kind of like spacemen who had removed their helmets Lion fall for Jesus he never leaves shirt . Meanwhile, the basic suits and jackets, the checkerboard jeans, the shopper totes and more that you could pick out of the collection were striking for their — dare I say? — approachability. And the gowns, especially a sleeveless one made of looped thread in silver, were sensational, but not easy for most people to wear. So, I guess you could say there’s something for everyone. Clare Waight Keller’s latest offering for Givenchy was also filled with new ideas, and some older ones, too. The Fortuny-like pleated dresses at the heart of the collection, printed with a floral pattern, were beautiful, but then they did seem a tad repetitive after the 10th or so. They tended to overshadow the many smart belted coats with puffed up shoulders in the show, which looked really cool and powerful, as did a new, looser cut of a white blouse worn with a long flat black bow. Speaking of cool, Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino knows when to move on from a hot look, even one that he helped create. More than anyone, Piccioli is responsible for the popularity of the lavishly cut tent dresses seen in pop colors on runways and red carpets everywhere these days, but he’s ready for something fresh. You Can See More Product: https://shirttrending.com/product-category/trending/ Read the full article