#kirtle

[hurglewurm]

been thinking a lot about the Layers in fashion during the 15th-16th centuries in europe... this is a highly inaccurate mishmash because i was just doing more or less the original design and put on some slashed sleeves lmao

[zwierendezwam]

Wore my new kirtle to Muiderslot today!!

[tetrachromate]

after english brass effigies circa 1500

[jortschronicles]

T Tunic Assembly

Notes created for the cast of the Medieval Fair of Norman intended as a good starting point for costumers made nervous by curved lines.

Meaurements and suggested cutting layout for this tunic are here

Cut out 4 body panels, 2 sleeves, 2 gussets, and some* gores.

Sew 2 body pieces down the long edge. This makes your back panel. **Optional for skirt volume: sew butt gore into back seam**

Sew the other 2 body pieces down long edge. This makes the front panel

Sew the front panel to the back panel at the shoulders

Trace a circle with a 3" radius (6" diameter) with the center 1" down the front center seam (This places 2/3 of the circle on the front panels and 1/3 on the back panels). Cut this out & seam rip ~2-4" down the center seam of the front. This makes the keyhole neckline we use for trying on our mockup.

Center one of the sleeves along the shoulder seam. Repeat for the other side.

Sew the gusset (armpit) into the right angle formed by the sleeve and the body. Repeat for the other side.

7. Attach gores to the body panels as depicted in diagram on left. If gores are in multiple pieces (i.e. 4 or more right triangles, as instructed in the prior post, see diagram on right.)

8. Fold tunic in half and start sewing along the outside edge. Gussets should be folded diagonally making armpit "triangles" when viewed from the front.

You now have a T tunic! start fitting and making adjustments as desired. Consider the following suggestions:

pinch and pin along the sleeve to tighten the fit. mark and trim if the sleeve is too long.

pinch and pin under the widest part of the chest and along any part of the torso with too much ease.

mark how wide you want your neck to be, if wider than the keyhole neckline.

consider moving your gores up or down to start at your natural waist or hip.

Consider narrowing or shortening gusset if it has too much of a bat wing. Gussets can also be a "kite" shape with the long narrow end pointing down the arm and the short end into the body.

[fabric-whore]

Welcome back to shitty light central! This time featuring The Orb ™

The blue dress is later medieval and the purple one is early, it's also a bit wack but wtv

I dyed the blue one, it was supposed to be green but I rather like the blue

There are buttons made out of dimes on the blue kirtle so it's worth at least 1 dollar

[beans-wit-da-sauce]

finishing up a 1500s tudor kirtle. sewing eyelets it totally so fun 10/10 would reccomend. pattern and techniques are from The Tudor Tailor. @zeltrair we should throw a tudor style hallows eve party. eat a turkey leg and fear the dead.

[gogmstuff]

1489-1490 Giovanna Tornabuoni by Domenico Ghirlandaio (Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza - Madrid, Spain). From tumblr.com/life-imitates-art-far-more/642167958715695104/domenico-ghirlandaio-1448-1494-portrait-of; adjusted to fit screen  781X1400 @72 484kj.

[mahi1313]

[alexsrandomramblings]

Is final happened. The kirtle is finally hemmed and finished. Still. Need to add the shoulder ties for detachable sleeves, but those aren't necessarily for wearing the actual kirtle itself.

[rebel-girl-queen-of-my-world]

I’ve got to add some to this list:

1. Obviously, I’m going to say pockets. Having big pockets you can tie around your waist is so convenient and a petticoat will hide any bulges. Plus they were often gorgeously embroidered.

2. Fans! Why don’t we still carry these in general? They come in handy all the time, what with a warming planet and all. This one, obviously not HA, I got from @pennyriver on Etsy as part of a fundraiser she was doing for a refugee organization. It’s good for telling off shitty history-whitewashers.

3. Cloaks. You can have it with a capacious hood, without a hood, you can line them, add hand holes and hidden pockets - they’re endlessly modular and you can’t help but feel cool wearing one. Also relatively easy to make.

4. Linen shifts/chemises - at least to sleep in. It feels great to swan about your place in a long white shift like a gothic heroine.

5. Market wallets - these are incredibly convenient for carrying anything too big for your pockets.

6. Not my period, but I love a medieval kirtle. Easy frontal laceup, sleek lines, and a flattering shape with lots of layering options. Also looks cool with a belt! I might try to make one of these one day, modified for modern wear.

Top 5 historic clothing items we should bring back into style (stockings on men, big cuffs on coats etc.)

Well I am very biased, because my everyday clothes are mostly 18th century menswear inspired, but for a list as short as 5 it’s good to narrow it down!

1. 18th century shirts. Big puffy soft linen shirts. Best shirts. Comfiest shirts. Though tragically, since they get softer with more washing, they’re at their absolute most comfortable right before they wear out.

(This one’s from the post where I copied the tiddy-out violinist painting.) Besides being the nicest softest comfiest, they’re also the most economical, being made entirely from rectangles. And they’re versatile, they look good with lots of different garments! Someday I will do a very detailed youtube tutorial for my machine sewn shirt method. I’ve done so many now that I think I’ve finally got it down.

2. Adjustable waistbands. Why did this ever stop being a thing? 18th century breeches have lacing at the back, then in the 19th century trousers have a buckle tab. Now they do not, even though we’re all still humans with bodies that change. (These are my orange silk breeches)

Do you know how many hours of my life I’ve spent taking in or letting out the waist seams of modern trousers? I don’t know either, but I’ve been an alterations tailor since 2019, so it’s got to be a fair amount.

All that waist altering wouldn’t be necessary if they still made them adjustable! Waistlines fluctuate, so too should waistbands!!

3. Shoulder capes attached to coats. This was a thing in the late 18th century, and in the 19th, and I think into the early 20th too. It adds extra protection from the rain and snow, and it looks cool.

(c. 1812, The Met.)

(c. 1840-60, MFA Boston. The cape on this one is detachable)

You can make them long or short, and stack them up like pancakes or just have one. I’ve got 2 small ones on my corduroy coat, and one on my dark blue wool. Both cut from almost the same 1790’s-ish pattern.

I also want to give a shoutout to fitted sleeves! I love me some two piece sleeves with a distinct elbow! And the coat pockets were bigger back then.

4. Indoor caps. I don’t care what era or how fancy you go with it, I just want people to wear caps indoors when it’s cold! This one’s super simple, it’s just a tube of linen tied with a ribbon.

(Detail from Le Marchand d’Orviétan ou l’opérateur Barri by Etienne Jeaurat, 1743.)

If it’s cold in your apartment you need slippers for the feets and a cap for the head. Speaking of which.

5. Medieval hoods. This one is wayyy outside my usual era, but the wintery below-freezing weather has just started here and the knit hat I’ve been wearing isn’t quite long enough to cover my ears. I want to make a simple hat with ear flaps, but I also wouldn’t be opposed to trying to work something vaguely similar to this into my wardrobe. It looks so warm!

(Image source. Also she has a printable pattern available!)I actually made one of these once, an entire decade ago. But it was scratchy blanket wool and I’ve since given it away.

That’s some of the main things I think we should bring back! There are lots of other things too, like men’s nightgowns, and waistcoats with little scenes embroidered on them, but for this list I tried to be mostly practical.

[15-lizards]

Inspired by the latest episode, what would the Brakens and the Blackwoods wear?

They are average riverlanders to me, though the Blackwoods are genetically more goth, and all Brackens are fated to be jocks. The most beautiful part is that no matter the time period, they would wear the exact same fucking thing. Definition of same text different color scheme

Blackwood voice our proud and noble colors reminiscent of the dragon kings themselves. Our sturdy leather doublets and finely crafted but perfectly humble wool tunics. Our modest gowns and flowing skirts and sleeves. Unlike those garish horse piss drinkers down the road.

Bracken voice our noble golden colors that shine like a light upon this land. Unlike the evil ravens whose colors are reminiscent of only death and blood. Our fine, carefully crafted embroidery that speaks of our rich history. Our flowing sleeves and grand robes that are needed for people of our ancient lineage. Unlike those uncultured heathens down the road who sully the riverlands with blood magic

[queenmarytudor]

Mary's gowns by colour and year of purchase, from Of Crymsen Tissue: The Construction of a Queen: Identity, Legitimacy and the Wardrobe of Mary Tudor by Hilary Doda, 2011

Mary's kirtle and sleeves by colour and year of purchase, from Of Crymsen Tissue: The Construction of a Queen: Identity, Legitimacy and the Wardrobe of Mary Tudor by Hilary Doda, 2011

[jortschronicles]

Dressing the Despencers pt 3: The End of An Era

Part 1 | Part 2

I had to accept that due to time constraints and a sum total of 1 hour to fit two people, my dreams of fully buttoned full length cotehardies would not be fulfilled. However, I am very satisfied with the way things turned out. My cuffs were long enough and sleeves snug enough to prevent riding up, and did not need the planned emergency Glamorgan chevronelly cuff. The mens' cotes were kept long (just below and just above the knee) for personal taste of the wearers. Both boys were put in hoods, though I seem to have failed to catch a picture with Thomas le Despencer in a hood. I have a habit of leaving my phone in the cast tent, so I am not surprised. The yellow dagged hood was my first foray into dagging and I am OBSESSED.

As both of the boys playing Edward and Thomas le Despencer were new to the historical costuming scene, neither were comfortable with the snug fit in the torso of a good cotehardie and requested an expansion to fit more like T-shirts. Due to the short time remaining, I opted to go for a stripe of dark brown linen down the front opening to ensure a semi-unified look. Unfortunately the literal last minute nature of this change resulted in some puckering down the front of each cotehardie that makes my eye twitch. I was terribly sad as this decision came after I'd installed what felt like thousands of buttonholes down the front of Edward's cotehardie.

Alas, some concessions must be made for the hellish clash of the impending deadline of an event and the limited available time for fittings with students. I have very mixed feelings about the results of this project, as I feel I did not make these costumes up to my standards, but I am incredibly proud of what I managed with the restrictions and barriers I encountered.

Some highlights:

To maximize the length of the sleeve and reduce the bulk, I applied a piece of 3/8" polysatin bridal ribbon to the serged edge with the tiniest back stitches I've ever done, then folded the ribbon to the inside and whip stitched it in place to secure the edge and hide the serging. To prevent the thin satin from tearing where I applied my (machine) buttonholes, I took a scrap of linen, folded it in half, and applied it to the buttonhole edge as a facing to take the majority of the strain of the buttons off the fashion fabric.

At the suggestion of Countess Christyana at LPT, I made a long strip of craft felt to apply to the inside of my hem, backing the lions. I found this gave a body to the bronze and blue fabrics that they did not have previously, giving me a much better silhouette, as well as stiffened the edge of the dress and helpfully preventing me from tripping over my own two feet. I wore it with just the craft felt basted in to one dress rehearsal before applying a facing of scrap muslin to the interior edge. This encased the felt, preventing it from picking up every blade of grass in the state of Oklahoma.

Regrettably I have no pictures of the process of inserting the felt, but my process was simple. First, I applied the felt as a facing, turning it towards the interior edge. This I basted fairly loosely to the seam allowance where the red trim is attached to the bottom of the dress.

I then cleaned up the edge where the "grass guard" met the felt met the red embroidered band with some small whip stitches to give a crisp, clean finish.

After three days in a variety of weather conditions, the interior lining did relax a little as seen below, and will require some cleanup.

Pictured: Baroness Elizabeth Despencer attending the court of His Majesty Edward III, wondering why, exactly, one of the privateers has been handed the sword of state. (it was for a bit, we promise)

Also seen above, I purchased 14 badges of Prince Edward of Woodstock for the members of Prince Edward's Court (court 2) to wear, as a gift to the wonderful cast members who variously learned and developed new skills, stepped out of their comfort zones, and maybe let me turn them into human barbie dolls a little bit.

I really enjoyed wearing this outfit for three days through the course of the Norman Medieval Fair. I was incredibly worried about the polyester fabrics causing me to overheat, but found the linen lining and tight fitting torso prevented the polyester from building the dreaded heat pocket of humidity, and I stayed fairly cool and dry throughout the weekend. I found a personal preference for the structure and bulk of a wimple and veil when the face edges of both are folded, providing protection from the dust on the wind and the blazing sun. I cheated and safety pinned the bottom edge of my wimple together in the back, though the rest was secured by a single pin through the crossed upper edges to my brigitta cap and held tight by the pair of pins that attached my veil. Dancing in this garb made me feel more regal than I ever have in my life.

Pictured: a happy baroness with croissants. Fed nobility is happy nobility!

Unfortunately due to mental and physical health issues, I will not be returning as costuming director to the cast.

What comes next?

A klappenrock for a commission

Lesbian Minoan ;)

Coordinating Roman and Greek for myself and my consort

an attempt at a little viking cap!

a nap, probably.

[roaldseth]

So the fellows not over on the other site don't miss out. Everyone's up in arms about no Octopath Traveler II, so it's fashionable to get around to finally upload cosplay photos.

Photography : @ falling_cat_media (Instagram)

Editing : @roaldseth