#corset history

[resplendentoutfit]

Edwardian Fashion: The S-Bend Silhouette

The curious S-shape figure of the Edwardian woman was achieved by wearing an undergarment invented by a physician in the later part of the 19th century and marketed as a "health corset". The S-bend or straight-front corset sat lower on the body and was characterized by a rounded, forward leaning torso with hips pushed back. It was thought that because this new corset, unlike the Victorian styles, alleviated pressure on the abdomen and internal organs, that it promoted a healthier posture. Unlike many fashion trends in history, it would take several years for the S-bend to become a fashion statement unrelated to health concerns, reaching the height of its popularity between 1904-1905. It was coloquely referred to as the "pouter pigeon" silhouette.

S-bend corset • V & A, London | The look achieved.

Fashion illustrations tended to exaggerate the S-bend silhouette. It's likely that many women achieved a less severe shape while still maintaining a fashionable appearance.

Day dress • Wool crepe/silk taffeta • 1902-04 • FIDM Museum

Sources:

• FIDM Museum

• Fashion History Timeline (fit.nyc)

• Julia Bennet (juliabennet.com)

[charliethemanticore]

please tell me about sayer and bernard roth, and do not pretend to be normal about it 🩷

okay okay okay, anon I am giving you a little kiss on the forehead. I am gonna be going back through my notes so if this takes a hot minute, that’s why.

Update: This is… getting very long so I’m going to do this in sections. Your introduction lies below the readmore. Because I’ve hit 850 words. It really needs an edit. I am not doing that. Have fun. There will be another installment later.

So. Corsets (and Why We're So Weird About Them)

So, a few things need to be established here to understand the roots of modern anti-corset rhetoric. I will be dealing with sexism, ableism, and likely touching on racism within the medical field during the 19th century. If you’re anything like me, you will be angry by the end of this, just hopefully at some guys who have been dead a really long time, and not me. I’m just some guy who is three arbitrary credits off having a degree in History (with High Distinctions, btw. I’m very proud of my disabled ass for my current 6.0 on our 7-point scale)

France, America, and the UK in the 19th century were very Christian in the 19th century. The research I’ve done mostly focused on these countries, however I did briefly dabble in German history because the medical dress reform movement more or less started there, but more on that later.

As many of you know, it is a fairly standard belief in (many denominations of) Christianity* that if you do something Wrong™ then you will be Punished™ with misfortune. During this period, if someone was ill then they had Done Something To Deserve It™. This meant that, often, your physical condition was treated as a shorthand for your moral standing.

* For the purposes of this discussion, Catholicism is included under the “Christianity” blanket, I know many Catholics disagree with that categorization, but I am not writing “Christians and Catholics” fifty times

The medical field was professionalized to a recognizable degree in the 19th century. A lot of that professionalization resulted in super fucked up ideas about gender, race, and disability. The professionalization of medicine was parallel to the rise in global eugenics movement. This will probably surprise no-one but needs to be stated, nonetheless.

Many disabilities are more frequently observed in Women* than Men*. Scoliosis, which was the focus of my research for my major work, was one of these conditions. It followed, therefore, that women were doing something Bad™ that men weren’t** and the easiest options were exercise and corsetry. Now, doctors genuinely believed that women were more delicate and susceptible to disease and injury (both to the physical and spiritual being). For the most part, many doctors did NOT want women to be doing as much exercise as they were recommending for men. So corsets were Public Enemy #1

* I’m nonbinary, I know that the binary is bullshit and biology is weird soup, but I am using the terms applicable to the medical understanding and discussion of the period, it’s just easier when referring to primary texts.

** Many men did actually wear corsets. I want one of the advertisements as a tattoo. They’re great.

Right. So now that we have the basic facts outlined, onward. I will include a reference list below. I might put some of my recommended reading in a google drive or smth if anyone wants that.

So. First of all we should probably talk about what a corset is. “Oh by Charlie I know what a corset is” shush. Maybe you do. Maybe you know what a modern corset is. This is my ted talk and I will be as obsessive about my definitions as I like.

For the purposes of SEO algorithms, a corset is a generic term that could refer to bodies, stays, corselets, true corsets, and anything you can find on google when searching for a fast fashion corset top. A generic term that can be applied wantonly for a thousand different garments from the 16th century to today is not very helpful.

When I say “Corset” I mean a garment that began to evolve from stays in the 1820s and had established itself as the popular foundational garment by the 1840s and remained so until the 1920s. For simplicities sake, a corset is a “rigid bodice” supported by vertical boning (Usually baleen/whalebone. Sometimes steel, sometimes reed, sometimes cording)(1). Its primary function was to support the bust, but they also formed the foundation of popular fashions (2).

Corsets work by distributing weight of the bust (and also clothing) across the entire torso, supported by resting on the hips (think of the difference between cradling a toddler – or a heavy box - and sitting them on your hip)(2). They also formed a smooth surface so that clothing could be tight to the body while limiting wrinkling but, more importantly, IT STOPPED WAISTBANDS NEEDING TO DIG INTO THE BODY TO STAY UP. They could be tight to the body, but the corset would not allow them to dig into the body. They were (USUALLY) custom made to the individual and (USUALLY) only worn to the tightness comfortable for the level of activity for the individual. (I will talk about exceptions later). Tight lacing wasn’t hugely common. Usually the drastic shape was achieved through optical illusion and padding (Bust improvers, bustles, bum pads) (3)(4). If you make the hips and bust appear larger, the waist will naturally appear smaller, regardless of actual measurements.

God this is going to be so long I haven’t even got to the Bernards. Okay so this might have to be in installments.

REFERENCES

1 Steele, Valerie. Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Kindle ed. Charles Schribner’s Sons, 2005, p. 290

2 Waugh, Norah, and Judith Dolan. Corsets and Crinolines. Abingdon, Oxon; New York, Ny, Routledge, 2018, p. 75.

3 Kunzle, David. Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body Sculpture. Sutton Publishing, 2004, p. 89.

4 Steele, Valerie. Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age. Oxford University Press, 1985, pp. 62-63

[that-witchy-pan]

Please, for the love of all things good, if you are a fanfic writer, STOP ENGAGING IN CORSET MYTHS. I cannot stress how little the common woman tighlaced, and it very much takes me out of the moment when I see 'they laced it so tight I couldn't breathe.' Yes, it was possible for exceptions, but if I see one more corset myth perpetuated, I'm going to explode.

[marzipanandminutiae]

I feel like a more useful phrase for encompassing how Hollywood's Corsets Are Evil attitude underestimates women's intelligence, as opposed to "would we have worn something like them for 500 years if they weren't comfortable?" is

"would the vast majority of us have worn something like them for 500 years if they were absolute torture devices in 100% of use cases?"

would we have worn them if they weren't comfortable? just as a blanket statement with no further modifiers...yes. I've been watching deep dives on lip fillers while I sew this morning. people will ABSOLUTELY do things that are not only uncomfortable but outright dangerous, for beauty

however

"the vast majority" is a key difference here. most women don't get lip fillers, especially not to the point of looking cartoonish. most of us, regardless of gender, look at that and cringe. corsets were worn with the ubiquity of bras, and I cannot emphasize that enough. so it's hardly the same thing

and as for comfort...well, that's a moving target. I can't say "X garment is comfortable" and leave it at that, because different people find comfort in different things. and we all have different bodies, to boot. I don't find stiletto heels comfortable, and most people agree with me on that. I also don't find sweatpants comfortable, though- they're mostly polyester and therefore overly warm to me, and they make me mentally uncomfortable to wear because they're so far outside of what makes me feel happy and confident

and anyway, the media isn't saying that corsets were UncomfyTM. that's not engaging with the actual message. they're saying corsets were TORTURE. that they made women faint all the time! that they killed us! that they broke ribs and chafed us bloody! and that they did all of this regardless of how one wore them, because this is just How Corsets Always Work!

which is...demonstrably not true. some women did tightlace. that cannot be denied and I wouldn't try to. but go back to the filler situation- it's not everyone. and even some women who were willing to put up with tightlacing for special occasions wouldn't do it every day. some brides wear Spanx for their weddings now, who wouldn't touch the stuff 99% of the time

would it have happened, period, if it wasn't comfortable? yes, easily. but that's the wrong question

would it have been as ubiquitous as wearing a bra is today if it were a hellish pain-nightmare across the board? absolutely not

[iridessence]

c.1899 black woman wearing embroidered pin dot stockings

[pastlivesfinery]

Revue de la Mode, 1873

[frostedmagnolias]

White Cotton Corset Cover

1850-1874

unknown maker, England

Victoria and Albert Museum

[princesskuragina]

Call this corset not safe for tumblr the way it got. Boning and gore

[eroticlamb]

Promo poster for a Lou Reed concert at Memorial Hall, Kansas City, May 2, 1973 ♡

[lookingbackatfashionhistory]

• Woman's Corset and Shoulder Braces.

Date: 1890's

Designer/Maker: Probably Made by Williamson Corset and Brace Co., Saint Louis

Medium: Black and off-white cotton sateen, brown cotton lace, brown cotton twill, yellow silk thread, black and brown cotton/elastic.

[yellow-yellow-jacket]

avid historical fashion enthusiast here to remind you that corsets and stays were not created as ancient methods of torture.

sure, i am not going to deny that some women did tightlace their corsets — however, not everyone was struggling to breathe and fainting everywhere like fucking goats. part of a corset’s purpose was aesthetic and fashion, but it was also for support. most women still lived their lives, they weren’t just lying around being damsels in distress with itty bitty waists and zero lung capacity.

i just think it’s scary how hollywood has popularized the misconception that corsets are made to be tightlaced — for example, if someone who isn't well educated about historical fashions buys a corset for a costume, they might think it’s normal if they can’t breathe, and that’s dangerous. i cannot emphasize that enough.

when i was performing in a production of beauty and the beast earlier this year, some of the girls — my friends — were tightening their corsets to seriously dangerous extents, and that fucking scared me. i felt like a broken record telling them to loosen their corsets, but all they knew was pirates of the caribbean (that one scene pisses me off sO BAD) and bridgerton (i am NOT gonna start on the corset tightening scene in bridgerton s1, i do not need to get on that soap box).

if you read nothing else in this little rant of mine, read this:

if you cannot breathe while you are wearing a corset, something is wrong.

[rabbits-of-negative-euphoria]

"corsets are only surrounded by stigma because MEN demonized them" you can say it's because of the feminists. it's okay. sometimes feminists were wrong and did bad. it's okay to admit that.

[desolatus]

Corset, C. 1891

France

Maison Léoty

[marzipanandminutiae]

Twh corset apologism is insane. Every medical professional with knowledge to day says wearing a back support all day every day is BAD for you!!!!!! "Less supportive" corsets were better for people and also it's funny how corsets are apparently the savior of big titty women to you but comfortable flexible corset that holds your tits in shouldn't be worm because if regressive? fuck off

I literally had to read this like three times to understand what you were saying and I'm still not fully sure I do

first of all, most doctors say that wearing back braces does not cause muscle atrophy. they're pretty quick to reassure people of that online, in a way that makes it kind of hilarious that they believe it of corsets that support the same muscles as aforesaid braces. here is a study on the matter, and a search for "do back braces cause muscle atrophy" will turn up a lot more info for you

secondly, I don't know what you're talking about re: "comfortable flexible corset that holds your tits in." are you referring to bras? if so, there's certainly nothing inherently wrong with them; the support from the shoulders can be less comfortable for some people than the support from over/underneath that a corset provides, but I've never said one is unilaterally better than the other for everyone

are you talking about 1920s corsets or corset/binder combos? because if so...yeah that's not "comfortable;" it's Spanx + a binder. It was designed to flatten, not merely support, and it was basically an elastic band squishing your torso. I'm sure that wasn't a universal torture device either- women got things done in it, clearly -but it's hardly the ideal support option

or you could be talking about something else entirely. it's really hard to say

anyway. corsets were not unilaterally awful. the medical "evidence" against them is over a century old across the board, often guesswork at best and misrepresentation of preserved specimens at worst, from doctors who had no access to modern diagnostic tools and also thought vigorous exercise could cause uterine prolapse. reliable primary sources suggest that most women did not wear them in a way that caused physical injury or significant discomfort, on a daily basis. of course not all women found even moderately-laced corsets comfortable, and it would be naïve to suggest that tightlacing never happened. but those are not the claims I'm making here

if that's "corset apologism," then I'm a horrible, brainwashed corset apologist, babey

[pastlivesfinery]

La Mode, 1840 🩷

[beggars-opera]

I think all the drama over corsets would be a lot less if we stopped seeing them as a binary of either I'm Comfortable In One So They're Great or They Were Designed To Torture And Subjugate Women.

Think of them a little bit like shoes. Pieces of clothing that have a very important function, but they're going to run the gamut of comfort and the idea of not wearing them at all feels very anti-establishment altogether, even if a lot of people would be happier that way. There are ways of making shoes that don't pinch or mess up your legs, many of us choose not to wear them and instead go with heels because of fashion and dress codes. Tightly laced corsets are the stilettos of the 19th century; few people are going to go all the way and do themselves damage. Plenty of people are just wearing something snug but comfortable, and a decent number of people are walking around facing what we would consider mild discomfort and not really thinking that anything else is an option, because anything else isn't an option. Bras weren't invented yet, so if you wanted any support at all that's what you had.

I'm not saying that wearing an inherently restrictive piece of clothing like a corset is more comfortable than a modern bra. We're not accustomed to it, so obviously it feels foreign and uncomfortable to us. I'm saying that a bra isn't that comfortable either, and lacks some of the good features of a corset, like back support. But because bras are normal to us we don't judge them in the same way we do a corset. We spend a lot of time negating the agency of historical women without taking a good look in the mirror.