#bib bodice
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1909 Journal des Demoiselles, Supplément au Toilettes de Mmes Forcillon by anonymous (Rijksmuseum). From their Web site 3218X4644.
#1900s fashion#1909 fashion#Belle Époque fashion#Edwardian fashion#flowered hat#bouffant coiffure#blouse#high clerical neckline#long sleeves#ruff#jabot#bib bodice#vest#princess cut#coat#close skirt
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Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 16, vol. 18, 19 avril 1896, Paris. 11. Robe de maison en foulard mauve. Modèle de la Capdeville, 58, boulevard Haussman. 22. Corsage Tannhaüser en lainage violet évêque. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
(11.) Robe de maison en foulard mauve, de forme droite, froncée devant et dans le dos, avec pli rond rapporté retenu par une ceinture de ruban nouée de côté, i rangs de petite Valenciennes ornent le devant et le haut des manches; la manche ballon, très basse sur l’épaule, se termine par un bracelet de ruban, double col rabattu orné de dentelle.
(11.) House dress in mauve foulard, straight, gathered at the front and back, with round pleat held in place by a ribbon belt tied at the side, rows of small Valenciennes adorn the front and the top of the sleeves; the balloon sleeve, very low on the shoulder, ends with a ribbon bracelet, double turn-down collar decorated with lace.
Matériaux: 10 mètres soie ou 5 mètres lainage, 20 mètres dentelle.
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(22.) Corsage Tannhaüser en lainage violet évêque, rentré flans la jupe, le devant avec col revers est croise de côté; il est ouvert du lia ut sur un plastron en pareil surmonté d’un col de velours, garniture de velours assorti. Manche d’une seule pièce avec revers velours.
Matériaux: 3 mètres de tissu, 1m,50 velours.
(22.) Tannhaüser bodice in purple bishop wool, tucked into the skirt, the front with lapel collar is crossed sideways; it is open from the lia ut on a bib in the same surmounted by a velvet collar, trimmed with matching velvet. One-piece sleeve with velvet cuff.
#Le Petit écho de la mode#19th century#1890s#1896#on this day#April 19#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#description#Forney#dress#corsage#devant et dos#gigot#Modèles de chez#Maison Capdeville
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This Vietwardian socialite, armed with a letter opener that is sharper than strictly necessary, is prepared to stab the next person who tries her patience. Her gown is inspired by a classic áo dài, but with an Edwardian train and cold-shoulder lace sleeves. The black bobbinet overlay retains the raglan line of an áo dài, combined with a sweetheart neckline. The body panels are linen damask draped over a structured under-bodice, embroidered and beaded with glass jet and cut steel. Rather than traditional trousers, the gown is worn over a frilly black cotton petticoat. The gold bib necklace is inspired by traditional Vietnamese kiềng, particularly the beautiful styles worn by the Hmong, and Art Nouveau enameled jewelry. Her khăn đóng is cloth of gold. She is framed and haloed by pale yellow and pink chrysanthemums.
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I finally finished this piece!
Do not edit or remove my caption, crop, edit, or repost on any platform.
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Lady Deadpool and Y/N leave an event…
Lady DP: another assassination in the bag
Y/N: I just hope Sony won’t be missing Jared Leto anytime soon.
Lady DP yanks out the dress bib from her dinner vest, exposing her bodice underneath…
Lady DP: so wanna go celebrate the way we do every mission?
Y/N: if we keep bouncing the Odyssey like that we’re gonna need a new suspension system.
Lady DP: we can afford it. Now get in there and let me rock you hard to the music of Tay Tay. Our Odyssey really fu—
#marvel#marvel fluff#marvel imagine#mcu#mcu imagine#mcu fandom#marvel incorrect quotes#incorrect marvel quotes#lady deadpool#blake lively#deadpool#deadpool x reader#deadpool and wolverine#deadpool 3
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Doll-like 🪦 Dress and lace bib vintage, bodice Selkie, shoes Strangecvlt, Fuseli’s “The Nightmare” earrings by Captain Hanna.
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need the summer outfit plans pls, your new style is everything, us girls love it!
2024 Early Spring Trend Forecast
This season is going to give toned down coquette on the bodice, Y2K bellow the waist, on the feet, and perched on the shoulder in form of your besties beloved pet cat.
In the next few months your instagram feed will increasingly fill with grown woman sporting sailor themed ensembles. Yes, Like the ones you wore for photo day in pre-school. This is where the toned down coquette comes into play for the season. I also foresee lots of Peter Pan style collars and neck lines. It’s all about the baby doll, and growing up your girlish childhood favorites. Paired with Mary Janes or riding boots. The girls will also be sporting victorian style accessories, like bonnets, bibs and spats.
Prints and colors? Polka dots, rain jacket yellow, pastel and deep shades of purple, green, and blue paired playfully to make a monocromatic masterpiece, sweaters with equestian or floral embroidery, opt for a sheer fabric, nipples and well groomed pubic hair is in, and the fashionable girlies will have it on display.
Children’s wear/Skipper doll/Y2k mix bellow the waist, capri’s are hot, Bubble skirts are hot, vintage cheer skirts are hot, and we still like skirts over pants this year, trade in your Adidas track pants for Adidas track capri’s to be more on trend.
We’ll be incorporating YTK into our bags, and shoes this season. I’ve seen other reports that we will be Jane Birkinfying our bags again, but we already did that. Instead we will be doing insanely fun bags, and shoes strait out of the 2000’s. Check out pic’s bellow for ideas.
Keep but switch it up! “Siren core” glasses are getting tired, dilute them for translucent frames of similar shapes or round frames in any color you want.
Hot Depop sections to browse are “$20 and under” and “elevate your look” but avoid fast fashion brands like Shein ect and opt for vintage pieces made out of higher quality fabrics.
The key to styling every outfit is contrast, if you pick a coquette top, do a simple bottom, and a Y2K shoe or bag. You never want the whole outfit to be one aesthetic it will make you look tacky, and separates a well dressed person from the rest.
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Do you know anything about the “Mad Dresser” costume in Phantom? I stumbled upon a photo of Lily de-la-Haye in a costume I’ve never seen before and with a little bit of digging I found of that it’s referred to as the “Mad Dresser.” Is this character/costume a new West End thing or has it been around for a while?
The "Mad Dresser" is an original character! Seldom credited in the cast list, but always present. She is one of the people running distressed across stage after Piangi is found dead. I believe she was first played by Patricia Richards in the original West End production. At least the costume is often donned by a Carlotta understudy, and she is the one appearing in costume documentation photos:
The dress design has stayed fairly consistent throughout the years, with a floor-length, long-sleeved dress with collar, made of a dark floral fabric and usually two decorative bands down the bodice front. But the accessories may vary. The apron varies in colours, and some aprons have a bib while others are tied around the waist - though most feature one or more pockets. She is a dresser, after all. Sometimes she wears a headcarf, sometimes not. She can be redhead, blode, brunette, it doesn't seem to be a system to it.
Here she is "fixing Carlotta's costume", as depicted by Louise Fribo and Frederikke Kampmann in Copenhagen:
Corinne Schaefer in Hamburg:
Unidentified actress from Essen with the same apron as above, but different dress plus a headscarf. Interestingly the headscarf seems to match the dress above...
Rachel Spurrell and unidentified co-player mixing up costumes in West End c. 2010:
Rebecca Robbins on Broadway, with Ellen Harvey and Jessica Radetsky:
But whereas the character is well established, it looks like the West End revival has changed the look of the costume somewhat. Regardless of some of the variations above, the new costume doesn't appear to have the two distinct trims down the front, it doesn't always have a collar, and is made of smaller-patterned fabrics. I get more Fantine / factory worker vibes from it, TBH. Maybe it is to different her more from the "Wardrobe mistress" costume? I don't know. Here's Olivia Holland-Rose (left) and Lily de-la-Haye (middle, right) in the West End revival:
...and yes, she is indeed named "mad dresser" in Maria Bjørnson's original design, here seen with and without shawl:
#mad dresser#presumably it's piangi's death making her mad#phantom of the opera#costume nerding#maria bjørnson#phantom of the opera design#from design to costume
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Of Maid Outfits and Other Frilly Things
“It comes with stockings!” Phoenix cries and indeed it does–pastel pink stockings that match the bodice. Extremely thin pink stockings that you could probably rip if you pulled too hard. “And it’s got some sort of neck… thing? It’s like your cravat!”
If Phoenix Wright thinks that the distinguished silk cravat he wears to court is anything like this white lace bib? choker? on display, then his sense of fashion is even worse than Edgeworth thought. The bar is already low but Phoenix somehow still manages to duck under it.
“No,” Edgeworth says and he feels like a broken record, stuck on repeat. Phoenix wriggles his eyebrows in a manner that he probably thinks is suggestive. In reality, his eyebrows look more like caterpillars writhing in agony. “No.”
call me a chef with the way i am cooking 👨🍳 i hope my sister wakes up to this on her dash and has an aneurysm
#ace attorney#ace attorney fic#wrightworth#miles edgeworth#phoenix wright#MILES EDGEWORTH IN A MAID OUTFIT IS OVERRATED OKAY#I WILL DIE ON THIS HILL#missiletoe fic
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One Dress a Day Challenge
May: Purple Redux
Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries (s1e2, "Murder on the Ballarat Train") / Essie Davis as Phryne Fisher
I had this one on my list for the month but only just managed to track down which episode it's in! So it's really squeaking in under the wire. Worth it, though, for such a spectacular dress.
It seems to have a wrap structure; you can see there are gaps on both sides of the bodice where a piece overlays the front like a bib. The asymmetrical neckline is an interesting feature. I also think the belt ornament is beautiful and unusual--looks like winged roses! Other accessories include a hat trimmed to match her car, a white fur wrap, and a waveable dyed ostrich feather.
#miss fisher's murder mysteries#purple dresses#essie davis#one dress a day challenge#one dress a week challenge#television costumes#tv costumes#period drama#1920s style#1920s fashion#miss fisher#miss fisher season 1#miss fisher s1#phryne fisher#purple dress#murder on the ballarat train#20th century costumes#purple redux
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🤔💭👗
I’m brainstorming late this evening about addy’s next outfit. I know I want to make her a new dress featuring narrow tucks and ruffles, plus the flat sleeve header that turns into a puffed sleeve. I used a similar technique on last winter’s dress, just without the ruffle. Not sure yet whether to go for a full length bodice or yoked bodice.
For the apron, I want to have a scooped square neckline, with a bib featuring narrow tucks and curved in ruffles at the sides, and a gathered skirt just in the front— not a wrap around kind. Pockets would be nice, but idk yet if I want to trim the whole skirt perimeter with ruffles/ lace. I could also make the apron bib and skirt separates for more versatility in styling.
Still considering things…. I love sewing fancy things for Addy, because she deserves the world; I just don’t want to go overboard with the details on the bodice, because that could make it look too crowded.
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Quick question: I’ve heard both the term “bib dress” and “apron-front dress” used for late Georgian era dresses that tied up at the front bodice with strings. Was there a difference or were those two terms used interchangeably? Thank you and I hope you have a wonderful day.
They are the same thing, yes!
I know modern sources use them interchangeably. However, one must take care to ensure that one doesn't misinterpret phrases coined by more recent researchers as common in the period. A quick poke through Google Books finds no sources referencing "bib gowns" OR "apron-front gowns" in the relevant time periods. That doesn't mean those terms were never used at all back then- GB doesn't have every source in the world, after all -but it does imply at least a potential uncommonness, to my mind.
I found "stomacher front" in The Lady's Monthly Museum of May 1800 and The Edinburgh Annual Register of 1812 as well as a few other periodicals digitized on there, and I've also heard "placket front" used as a modern option (though no sources for that seem to have crossed Google's consciousness either).
Hope this helps!
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Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 40, vol. 10, 7 octobre 1888, Paris. 1, (1.) Toilette en drap alezan et velours noir, à 195 francs; — (2.) Toilette en peau de soie olive, surah rose pâle, à 135 francs. (S’adresser à Mme Gérardin, 60, rue de Verneuil.) Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
(1.) Toilette en drap alezan et velours noir. — Jupe ronde montée à plis, garnie au bas et devant de soutache et motifs de passementerie; polonaise droite mi-partie en drap et velours ouverte sur un plastron plat soutaché, encadré par un gilet de velours agrafé de côté, pouf rond gracieusement drapé monté à fronces au bis du dos, manche légèrement plissée avec revers de velours au bas, dessus de manche en velours. Col droit agrafé de côté.
Manière de faire cette toilette.
Sur un fond de jupe ordinaire (voir la description sur le no. 33 de la Mode Française) disposer 2 lés 1/2 de drap sur 1m,10 de haut, coupé en biais sur le côté, afin de moins gros sir les hanches, puis de gros plis plats derrière, la doublure de la polonaise est courte comme celle d’un corsage, le côté droit croise sur celui de gauche, et droit au milieu avec deux bandes de velours en biais disposées de chaque côté pour la polonaise, un lé de drap coupé eu deux forme les devants, second devant en velours, formant le dessous de bras, relevé de chaque côté, manche plate en doublure sur laquelle est plissée une bande de drap, droit fil, serré au bas par un revers de velours, taillé en biais et doublé de mousseline, bande de velours droite droit fil, formant le reste de la manche, dessous de manche en drap.
(1.) Dress in chestnut cloth and black velvet. — Round skirt set up with pleats, trimmed at the bottom and front with soutache and braiding patterns; straight half-part polish in cloth and velvet open on a flat bib with soutache, framed by a velvet waistcoat stapled on the side, round pouf gracefully draped set up with gathers at the bis of the back, slightly pleated sleeve with velvet cuffs at the bottom, upper sleeve in velvet. Straight collar stapled on the side.
How to make this dress.
On an ordinary skirt base (see the description on no. 33 of the French Fashion) arrange 2 1/2 strips of cloth 1.10 m high, cut on the bias on the side, in order to make the hips less thick, then large flat pleats behind, the lining of the polonaise is short like that of a bodice, the right side crosses over the left side, and straight in the middle with two strips of velvet on the bias arranged on each side for the polonaise, a strip of cloth cut in two forms the fronts, second front in velvet, forming the underarm, raised on each side, flat sleeve in lining on which is pleated a strip of cloth, straight grain, tightened at the bottom by a velvet cuff, cut on the bias and lined with muslin, strip of straight velvet straight grain, forming the rest of the sleeve, undersleeve in cloth.
Métrage: 3m,30 tissu pour la jupe, 2 mètres tissu pour polonaise, 4m,S0 tissu pour la jupe. Total: 6m,80 drap, 5 mètres velours.
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(2.) Toilette en peau de soie olive surah rose pâle. — Jupe unie en peau de soie, seconde jupe montée sur un plastron qui tient au corsage, formant coquillé à gauche, pouf droit à droite relevé très peu à gauche sous une ceinture en ruban même teinte, corsage court à petite pointe ouvert en V à l’encolure, garni de deux écharpes croisées sur le devant finissant dans la jupe. Manches bouffantes terminées par un plissé.
Manière de faire cette toilette.
Sur un fond de jupe ordinaire disposez à plat 5 lés de soie sur 4m,40 de haut, seconde jupe droite coupée sur 4 lés de 1m,40 de haut, ourlet non compris, sur le côté gauche enlevez une pointe en biais dans la longueur afin d’obtenir le coquillé; pour le pouf assemblez 4 lés de 1m,20 de haut, plissé à droite et monté dans la ceinture, puis relevé à gauche par quelques points, et arrondir légèrement, coque de ruban avec pans garnissant le côté; pour le devant froncé, taillez un patron plat en biais, froncez l’étoffe dessus comme l’indique la gravure, puis montez Te devant de la seconde jupe, agrafez ensuite sur le corsage une fois la jupe mise; corsage droit fil devant. Côté et des sous de bras droit fil à la taille, dos droit fil biaisé au milieu, manche d’une seule pièce droit fil, écharpe coupée sur Om,60 de haut, plissée et cousue dans l’épaule. (2.) Olive surah pale pink silk skin toilet. — Plain silk skin skirt, second skirt mounted on a plastron which is attached to the bodice, forming a shell on the left, right pouf on the right raised very slightly on the left under a ribbon belt of the same color, short bodice with a small point open in a V at the neckline, trimmed with two scarves crossed on the front ending in the skirt. Puffed sleeves finished with a pleat.
How to make this ensemble.
On an ordinary skirt base, lay flat 5 strips of silk 4.40m high, second straight skirt cut on 4 strips 1.40m high, hem not included, on the left side remove a point diagonally in the length in order to obtain the shell; for the pouf assemble 4 strips of 1m,20 high, pleated on the right and assembled in the belt, then raised on the left by a few points, and rounded slightly, ribbon shell with panels garnishing the side; for the gathered front, cut a flat pattern on the bias, gather the fabric on it as indicated in the engraving, then assemble the front of the second skirt, then staple on the bodice once the skirt is on; bodice straight grain in front. Side and underarms straight grain at the waist, back straight grain biased in the middle, sleeve in one piece straight grain, scarf cut on Om,60 high, pleated and sewn in the shoulder.
Métrage: 5m,30 pour jupe, 4m,40 tissu pour seconde jupe, 4m,80 tissu pour le pouf, 3 mètres pour corsage. Total: 17m,70; 0m,60 surah.
#Le Petit écho de la mode#19th century#1880s#1888#on this day#October 7#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#cover#cover redo#description#bibliothèque nationale de france#dress#bustle#polonaise#Modèles de chez#Madame Gérardin
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Vietwardian look 2/? — This Vietwardian socialite is prepared to stab a man with her letter opener if she hears one more word of nonsense out of his mouth.
This gown is based on a classic áo dài, but with an Edwardian train and cold-shoulder lace sleeves. The black bobbinet overlay retains the raglan line of an áo dài, combined with a sweetheart neckline. The body panels are linen damask draped over a structured under-bodice, embroidered and beaded with glass jet and cut steel. Rather than traditional trousers, the gown is worn over a frilly black cotton petticoat. The gold bib necklace is inspired by traditional Vietnamese kiềng, particularly the beautiful styles worn by the Hmong, and Art Nouveau enameled jewelry. Her khăn đóng is cloth of gold.
Do not remove my caption, crop, edit, or repost on any platform.
#my art#vietwardian lookbook#illustration#god i desperately want to make this look#added an explanation of the design!
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leFlacon, The Sleeper II
Finally, it has arrived.
Read more for a lot of nitpicking and complaining.
To be honest, I’m a bit bothered about this release...I preordered it in November of 2021 (!) and it was supposed to ship in spring of 2022, but was delayed due to pandemic/factory delay reasons. Which is understandable, but again and again, leflacon kept telling me “it will be ready in july... august... november...” until finally, a year after the original ship date, they are ready.
I have mixed feelings about leFlacon in general. I find their quality not up to the price point (even on Taobao, which is cheaper than their global store), and the final product can differ from the listing/sample photos. Whether or not the sample pictures are just photographed really well (a lot of them seem to be overexposed or blown out, so it’s difficult to see the quality of material), or the sample is really a totally different piece, only the shop knows, I suppose. What I especially notice is that the sample piece can differ in dimensions/proportions compared to the final product, although the measurements provided in the listing itself are accurate, so don’t worry about that.
Anyways, despite the above, I like and own a couple leFlacon items with mixed feelings that vary on the item. I had felt a little snubbed in the past, but I still like leFlacon’s designs and brand concept, so I decided to take a gamble and purchase this one. Not sure if the long delay was some kind of sign, though.
The quality is fine--I definitely received what was on the tin, I think. The construction is also fine, and I don’t see any glaring problems with the stitching. But here are some notes I felt like making about the piece (good and bad):
The material is quite thin.
It’s cotton, and this thinness could be considered an advantage--slightly gauzy and nice for summer. It does wrinkle easily, but I don’t think this is necessarily a bad thing. The dress has a kind of frumpiness in its design with its long length and oversized sleeves, so wrinkles make it feel comfy and lived-in if the wrinkles are in areas that would happen naturally with wear (and not like you put it on after stuffing it in your closet in a ball).
The dress is completely unlined, not even in the bodice.
Not really a problem since I imagine most will wear with a petticoat/underskirt and camisole, but I wasn’t expecting unlined (I don’t own other leFlacon dresses, only accessories, so I’m not sure if this is normal for the brand). I think this might be due to the insertion lace making adding lining costly/difficult, but it wouldn’t have been impossible. Not a dealbreaker, but odd, I think, since the material is so thin it’s see-through.
(Although, the seraphim OP below seems unlined too, so maybe that’s just how these things are.)
All of the lace is synthetic (except the bottom “lace” panel)
leFlacon seems to use stretch lace a lot, which I think has the advantage of being both very cost effective and soft/not scratchy. It may have a tiny bit of a glittery effect or sheen due to the synthetic content. Some may actually prefer this, but I’m not a fan, personally. After spending so many years surrounded by cotton lace pieces, I think synthetic lace just doesn’t feel as delicate to me.
All of the wider lace portions (such as the bib lace and sleeve ribbons) are stretchy. The insertion lace portion uses a convincingly historical looking bobbin lace portion, but it is also synthetic (nylon, maybe?). It looks completely fine from far away and presents no problems, but I also think that synthetic really pales in comparison to real cotton bobbin lace. Pictured is a small length taken from my stash, purchased from Japan, but originally imported from France.
I recall brands such as Seraphim use high quality cotton lace for their insertion portions, so they’re out there.
Edit: A late thought, but I should note that Pink House (which is one of leFlacon’s style inspirations) uses high quality cotton lace like the above on their pieces (notably the underskirts which have insertion lace) as well.
Seraphim, Miranda OP
The bottom of the dress uses an embroidered cotton lace panel. The density of the embroidered threads is not as high as some other brand lace I’ve seen in the past, and has a slightly blurry appearance because of it.
(Not as sharp a photo as I would like, but hopefully the point is expressed...)
Compare old AP lace with newer (almost all pieces from 2019 or so, though the following example is older) custom lace. AP hasn’t used lace with a cotton base very often in recent years, so it was difficult for me to think of an example. Below is tulle lace, which utilizes the same concepts.
AP Creamy Cherry (2017) top; Wrapping Cherry (2016) bottom
However, I think it would be unreasonable to expect a brand at this price point (despite my price complaints) to find a large panel of very high quality cotton lace to use on the dress, which would likely be very costly, so don’t consider this a real complaint.
...
and the menial gripes:
Skirt centre seam
The skirt joins with a long seam right down the middle, to join the skirt details into its signature ‘V’ shape. The seam ends at the horizontal pintuck portion. I was under the impression that a seam in a place so obvious is a bit of a no-no, but because of the skirt pintucks and V shape, I believe logistically it made the most sense to just sew it all up with a centre seam. But, I don’t have to like this or the way it looks, and I still think there are ways to prevent the seam along the top portion of the skirt.
A centre seam also seems to make the fabric inclined to fold in where it is located (at the middle), which I don’t love but I suppose it hides the seam and looks pretty normal.
Bib lace
I wouldn’t consider this a real gripe, but the bib lace doesn’t extend all the way to the back. This is a design decision you can see from the stock photo scratch that, I just checked and there are almost no pictures of the back, only one photo where the model is turned slightly to the side so you get the slightest glimpse, but it is definitely not the focus.
I did strike me as a bit weird because the pieces I’m used to looking at have lace up to the back.
Sheglit, Edelweiss OP
A random Gunne Sax dress referenced from some seller on Poshmark because I don’t own any GS dresses with this type of bib (very sorry seller for using your photo, someone please send me a photo I can use)
Price
The preorder price at the time for this piece was 968 RMB total (368 at the end of 2021, 600 in 2023...I note this because the exchange rate has fluctuated wildly in that time). For the delay, all customers who preordered (on Taobao, I don’t know about the global store) were entitled to a tiny refund of 30 RMB, plus free shipping (11 RMB value).
The dress is back on preorder right now for about 200 RMB more (1280 I think), and $269 USD on the global store.
Conclusion?
To be clear, I do like the dress, and I really like the design! Otherwise, I wouldn’t have even purchased it in the first place. I’m happy to finally have the piece in my hands, and opted to wait it out instead of asking for a refund for a reason. I do feel like I received the piece I ordered, I just wanted to write down my mental complaints. This post is mostly for me, and I’m probably going to be embarrassed later, writing so much about the minutiae...
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Making a regency gown: Part I-lost-count
Based on the fact that I haven't posted an update in an entire month, you'd think I finished the gown, right?
Right??
Wrong
The back looks beautiful and I finally attached the skirt to the bodice, but this thing is still nowhere near finished. As you can tell from the front view, I still haven't gotten around to drafting the front bodice bib thing. I'm also contorting my arm behind my back because I haven't finished the waistband yet, so the apron front skirt doesn't close yet. (Btw, I also sewed little drawstrings running down the length of the sleeves so they can be adjusted and puff up a bit more.)
What you also can't tell is that the bottom half of the skirt still needs to be embroidered. Unfortunately, I've been running the inpatient service for the past 2 weeks so I haven't really had much time for this project. But I was able to embroider the parts of the skirt that are near seams so that I could get the construction of the skirt done. The parts that I haven't embroidered yet are just blank expanses of flat fabric, so they'll be easy to go back and finish later.
I wanted the front panel of the skirt to be flat and more structured, so I lined it with a sturdier cotton than the gauze fashion fabric, and that made it easy to do the colonial knots. I chose not to back the rest of the skirt with a lining because I wanted the back gathers to drape properly. But that posed a problem because the gauze is an open weave, and my colonial knots wanted to pull right through. I ended up taking a clue from the inspiration extant gown, where the dots are actually thousands of tiny metal staples, not embroidery stitches. They made the dots by stacking 3 staples in a "snowflake" configuration. So I tried that with my embroidery floss, and it worked pretty well but took much, much longer.
However, it quickly became apparent that I was going to run out of both embroidery floss and sanity before I would finish. So I had to go and buy several more spools of navy blue embroidery floss, albeit in 2 different shades because they'd run out of the exact color I need, but it's not terribly noticeable so I'm just going to have to live with it. I also forced myself to spend at least 1 hour a day doing the stupid embroidery on the skirt...until work got busy and I wadded the gown into a ball in the back of my closet for 3 weeks
Anyway, I've been tracking the amount of time I've spent on the project. Not including time spent on patterning and mockups, the bodice took 30 hours to construct and embroider by hand. The skirt took 9.5 hours to cut out and construct (a good percentage of that time was spent on prep work and being finicky about the placement of my pattern pieces because I had a very limited quantity of fabric to work with--seriously, strongly strongly recommend against trying to make a regency gown with only 3 yards of this cotton gauze, 0.5 yd of which I can't even use because the pre-embroidered border is hot pink). The skirt embroidery took 35 hours thus far, and I'm halfway done, so it'll probably take another 35 hours to finish. And then I have to make and embroider the bib front and waistband, which will probably take another 1-2 weekends. Except I need to study for boards, so idk when I'll get to that.........
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M'kay, got the bodice sewn to the skirt. Now just need to make the bib-front, waist ties, and then tuck and hem the skirt itself.
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