#bib bodice
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1909 Journal des Demoiselles, Supplément au Toilettes de Mmes Forcillon by anonymous (Rijksmuseum). From their Web site 3218X4644.
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#1900s fashion#1909 fashion#Belle Époque fashion#Edwardian fashion#flowered hat#bouffant coiffure#blouse#high clerical neckline#long sleeves#ruff#jabot#bib bodice#vest#princess cut#coat#close skirt
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Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 16, vol. 18, 19 avril 1896, Paris. 11. Robe de maison en foulard mauve. Modèle de la Capdeville, 58, boulevard Haussman. 22. Corsage Tannhaüser en lainage violet évêque. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
(11.) Robe de maison en foulard mauve, de forme droite, froncée devant et dans le dos, avec pli rond rapporté retenu par une ceinture de ruban nouée de côté, i rangs de petite Valenciennes ornent le devant et le haut des manches; la manche ballon, très basse sur l’épaule, se termine par un bracelet de ruban, double col rabattu orné de dentelle.
(11.) House dress in mauve foulard, straight, gathered at the front and back, with round pleat held in place by a ribbon belt tied at the side, rows of small Valenciennes adorn the front and the top of the sleeves; the balloon sleeve, very low on the shoulder, ends with a ribbon bracelet, double turn-down collar decorated with lace.
Matériaux: 10 mètres soie ou 5 mètres lainage, 20 mètres dentelle.
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(22.) Corsage Tannhaüser en lainage violet évêque, rentré flans la jupe, le devant avec col revers est croise de côté; il est ouvert du lia ut sur un plastron en pareil surmonté d’un col de velours, garniture de velours assorti. Manche d’une seule pièce avec revers velours.
Matériaux: 3 mètres de tissu, 1m,50 velours.
(22.) Tannhaüser bodice in purple bishop wool, tucked into the skirt, the front with lapel collar is crossed sideways; it is open from the lia ut on a bib in the same surmounted by a velvet collar, trimmed with matching velvet. One-piece sleeve with velvet cuff.
#Le Petit écho de la mode#19th century#1890s#1896#on this day#April 19#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#description#Forney#dress#corsage#devant et dos#gigot#Modèles de chez#Maison Capdeville
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This Vietwardian socialite, armed with a letter opener that is sharper than strictly necessary, is prepared to stab the next person who tries her patience. Her gown is inspired by a classic áo dài, but with an Edwardian train and cold-shoulder lace sleeves. The black bobbinet overlay retains the raglan line of an áo dài, combined with a sweetheart neckline. The body panels are linen damask draped over a structured under-bodice, embroidered and beaded with glass jet and cut steel. Rather than traditional trousers, the gown is worn over a frilly black cotton petticoat. The gold bib necklace is inspired by traditional Vietnamese kiềng, particularly the beautiful styles worn by the Hmong, and Art Nouveau enameled jewelry. Her khăn đóng is cloth of gold. She is framed and haloed by pale yellow and pink chrysanthemums.
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I finally finished this piece!
Do not edit or remove my caption, crop, edit, or repost on any platform.
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Lady Deadpool and Y/N leave an event…
Lady DP: another assassination in the bag
Y/N: I just hope Sony won’t be missing Jared Leto anytime soon.
Lady DP yanks out the dress bib from her dinner vest, exposing her bodice underneath…
Lady DP: so wanna go celebrate the way we do every mission?
Y/N: if we keep bouncing the Odyssey like that we’re gonna need a new suspension system.
Lady DP: we can afford it. Now get in there and let me rock you hard to the music of Tay Tay. Our Odyssey really fu—
#marvel#marvel fluff#marvel imagine#mcu#mcu imagine#mcu fandom#marvel incorrect quotes#incorrect marvel quotes#lady deadpool#blake lively#deadpool#deadpool x reader#deadpool and wolverine#deadpool 3
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Doll-like 🪦 Dress and lace bib vintage, bodice Selkie, shoes Strangecvlt, Fuseli’s “The Nightmare” earrings by Captain Hanna.
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La Femme chic Avril 1954
Madeleine de Rauch Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1954 Collection. Joan Whelan wears a finely pleated shirtdress in pinkish beige silk duppion by Pétillault; the bodice bib repeats the theme of the skirt. Hat by Paulette.
Madeleine de Rauch Collection Haute Couture Printemps/Été 1954. Joan Whelan porte une robe-chemisier au plissé fin, en douppion de soie beige rosé de Pétillault ; le plastron du corsage répète le thème de la jupe. Chapeau de Paulette.
Photo Frères Séeberger
#la femme chic#avril 1954#fashion 50s#spring summer#printemps été#haute couture#madeleine de rauch#joan whelan#frères séeberger#paulette hat#pétillault fabric#vintage magazine#vintage fashion
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need the summer outfit plans pls, your new style is everything, us girls love it!
2024 Early Spring Trend Forecast
This season is going to give toned down coquette on the bodice, Y2K bellow the waist, on the feet, and perched on the shoulder in form of your besties beloved pet cat.
In the next few months your instagram feed will increasingly fill with grown woman sporting sailor themed ensembles. Yes, Like the ones you wore for photo day in pre-school. This is where the toned down coquette comes into play for the season. I also foresee lots of Peter Pan style collars and neck lines. It’s all about the baby doll, and growing up your girlish childhood favorites. Paired with Mary Janes or riding boots. The girls will also be sporting victorian style accessories, like bonnets, bibs and spats.
Prints and colors? Polka dots, rain jacket yellow, pastel and deep shades of purple, green, and blue paired playfully to make a monocromatic masterpiece, sweaters with equestian or floral embroidery, opt for a sheer fabric, nipples and well groomed pubic hair is in, and the fashionable girlies will have it on display.
Children’s wear/Skipper doll/Y2k mix bellow the waist, capri’s are hot, Bubble skirts are hot, vintage cheer skirts are hot, and we still like skirts over pants this year, trade in your Adidas track pants for Adidas track capri’s to be more on trend.
We’ll be incorporating YTK into our bags, and shoes this season. I’ve seen other reports that we will be Jane Birkinfying our bags again, but we already did that. Instead we will be doing insanely fun bags, and shoes strait out of the 2000’s. Check out pic’s bellow for ideas.
Keep but switch it up! “Siren core” glasses are getting tired, dilute them for translucent frames of similar shapes or round frames in any color you want.
Hot Depop sections to browse are “$20 and under” and “elevate your look” but avoid fast fashion brands like Shein ect and opt for vintage pieces made out of higher quality fabrics.
The key to styling every outfit is contrast, if you pick a coquette top, do a simple bottom, and a Y2K shoe or bag. You never want the whole outfit to be one aesthetic it will make you look tacky, and separates a well dressed person from the rest.
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Do you know anything about the “Mad Dresser” costume in Phantom? I stumbled upon a photo of Lily de-la-Haye in a costume I’ve never seen before and with a little bit of digging I found of that it’s referred to as the “Mad Dresser.” Is this character/costume a new West End thing or has it been around for a while?
The "Mad Dresser" is an original character! Seldom credited in the cast list, but always present. She is one of the people running distressed across stage after Piangi is found dead. I believe she was first played by Patricia Richards in the original West End production. At least the costume is often donned by a Carlotta understudy, and she is the one appearing in costume documentation photos:
The dress design has stayed fairly consistent throughout the years, with a floor-length, long-sleeved dress with collar, made of a dark floral fabric and usually two decorative bands down the bodice front. But the accessories may vary. The apron varies in colours, and some aprons have a bib while others are tied around the waist - though most feature one or more pockets. She is a dresser, after all. Sometimes she wears a headcarf, sometimes not. She can be redhead, blode, brunette, it doesn't seem to be a system to it.
Here she is "fixing Carlotta's costume", as depicted by Louise Fribo and Frederikke Kampmann in Copenhagen:
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Corinne Schaefer in Hamburg:
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Unidentified actress from Essen with the same apron as above, but different dress plus a headscarf. Interestingly the headscarf seems to match the dress above...
Rachel Spurrell and unidentified co-player mixing up costumes in West End c. 2010:
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Rebecca Robbins on Broadway, with Ellen Harvey and Jessica Radetsky:
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But whereas the character is well established, it looks like the West End revival has changed the look of the costume somewhat. Regardless of some of the variations above, the new costume doesn't appear to have the two distinct trims down the front, it doesn't always have a collar, and is made of smaller-patterned fabrics. I get more Fantine / factory worker vibes from it, TBH. Maybe it is to different her more from the "Wardrobe mistress" costume? I don't know. Here's Olivia Holland-Rose (left) and Lily de-la-Haye (middle, right) in the West End revival:
...and yes, she is indeed named "mad dresser" in Maria Bjørnson's original design, here seen with and without shawl:
#mad dresser#presumably it's piangi's death making her mad#phantom of the opera#costume nerding#maria bjørnson#phantom of the opera design#from design to costume
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Of Maid Outfits and Other Frilly Things
“It comes with stockings!” Phoenix cries and indeed it does–pastel pink stockings that match the bodice. Extremely thin pink stockings that you could probably rip if you pulled too hard. “And it’s got some sort of neck… thing? It’s like your cravat!”
If Phoenix Wright thinks that the distinguished silk cravat he wears to court is anything like this white lace bib? choker? on display, then his sense of fashion is even worse than Edgeworth thought. The bar is already low but Phoenix somehow still manages to duck under it.
“No,” Edgeworth says and he feels like a broken record, stuck on repeat. Phoenix wriggles his eyebrows in a manner that he probably thinks is suggestive. In reality, his eyebrows look more like caterpillars writhing in agony. “No.”
call me a chef with the way i am cooking 👨🍳 i hope my sister wakes up to this on her dash and has an aneurysm
#ace attorney#ace attorney fic#wrightworth#miles edgeworth#phoenix wright#MILES EDGEWORTH IN A MAID OUTFIT IS OVERRATED OKAY#I WILL DIE ON THIS HILL#missiletoe fic
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I want to sew…..I haven’t sewn in months. But there’s so many other things that need to take priority that I shouldn’t. But also. I want to make pretty dress :( this a mock-up of it ft. my bonnet that looks fucking gigantic for some reason and my 1860’s parasol I need to make a pattern for to fix….so much to do. But it’s a bib front, meaning it’s got a layer that ties the bodice together and then is pinned over the front to cover it. It also has slits for pockets but I don’t think I’m going to do that in the final version bc it rips so easily.
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#I need to finish my white regency bib front one#I got a really cute neckerchief I want to go with it#then I want to make a black version of it based off of a painting#then I need to make a new ballgown…..#and also I want to make a blue museum replica that is SO pretty#and then also. a gingham one. and another blue one. I’m crazy#I won’t probably finish more than one of these LOL
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One Dress a Day Challenge
May: Purple Redux
Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries (s1e2, "Murder on the Ballarat Train") / Essie Davis as Phryne Fisher
I had this one on my list for the month but only just managed to track down which episode it's in! So it's really squeaking in under the wire. Worth it, though, for such a spectacular dress.
It seems to have a wrap structure; you can see there are gaps on both sides of the bodice where a piece overlays the front like a bib. The asymmetrical neckline is an interesting feature. I also think the belt ornament is beautiful and unusual--looks like winged roses! Other accessories include a hat trimmed to match her car, a white fur wrap, and a waveable dyed ostrich feather.
#miss fisher's murder mysteries#purple dresses#essie davis#one dress a day challenge#one dress a week challenge#television costumes#tv costumes#period drama#1920s style#1920s fashion#miss fisher#miss fisher season 1#miss fisher s1#phryne fisher#purple dress#murder on the ballarat train#20th century costumes#purple redux
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La Mode nationale, no. 4, 27 janvier 1900, Paris. No. 12. — Groupe de toilettes et de manteaux pour dames et enfants. Bibliothèque nationale de France
(1) Manteau de promenade ou de voyage pour fillette de 8 ans, en drap gris zinc, à deux pèlerines. Au bord deux biais de 2 centimètres. Col et poignets en velours gris sours.
(1) Walking or traveling coat for 8-year-old girl, in zinc gray cloth, with two capes. On the edge two 2-centimeter biases. Collar and cuffs in sour gray velvet.
Matériaux: 3 mètres de drap.
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(2) Robe pour fillette de 8 et 10 ans, en cover-coat mousse clair. Jupe en forme unie; corsage blousé décolleté en carré sur un plastron en taffetas mousse plissé. Revers en velours mousse foncé; même col et ceinture. Deux pattes ferment le corsage avec deux boutons de nacre.
(2) Dress for girls aged 8 and 10, in light moss cover-coat. Plain skirt; bloused bodice with square neckline on a pleated moss taffeta bib. Lapels in dark moss velvet; same collar and belt. Two tabs close the bodice with two mother-of-pearl buttons.
Matériaux: 3m,50 de lainage.
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(3) Redingote pour jeune femme, en drap bois, bordé de biais piqué. Cette redingote très ajustée forme jupe et collet. Trois bandes de fourrures posées en V l'ornent à mi-hauteur. Le collet court est fait d'un col très montant etd'un plastron de fourrure à larges revers, d'un volant de drap en forme, et d'un volant de fourrure en forme également.
(3) Young woman's frock coat, in wood cloth, edged with stitched bias. This very fitted frock coat forms a skirt and collar. Three fur strips placed in a V adorn it halfway up. The short collar is made of a very high collar and a fur plastron with wide lapels, a shaped cloth flounce, and a shaped fur flounce.
Matériaux: 6m,50 de drap.
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(4) Robe de dîner pour dame d'âge moyen, en velours glacé turquoise. La tunique princesse, drapée à la taille tombe sur une jupe bordée d'un haut volant plissé. Cette tunique est richement ornée de Venise el fermée par des pattes de velours bleu foncé et des boutons de strass. Le grand col forme berthe et s'ouvre en fichu sur un drapé de mousseline de soie bleu turquoise. En faisant monter le drapé jusqu'au cou, on aurait une très jolie toilette de ville.
(4) Dinner dress for a middle-aged lady, in turquoise glazed velvet. The princess tunic, draped at the waist, falls over a skirt edged with a high pleated flounce. This tunic is richly decorated with Venice lace and closed with dark blue velvet tabs and rhinestone buttons. The large collar forms a berthe and opens into a fichu on a drape of turquoise blue silk muslin. By raising the drape to the neck, one would have a very pretty city outfit.
Matériaux: 18 mètres de velours.
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(5) Dos de la figure 6.
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(6) Collet mi-long en drap rouge brique. Grand col en châle et revers en astrakan; bord dentelé en astrakan. Trois biais piqués suivent les contours de la bordure. Haute frange de mongolie.
(6) Mid-length cape in brick red cloth. Large shawl collar and lapel in astrakhan; serrated edge in astrakhan. Three stitched biases follow the contours of the border. High Mongolian fringe.
Matériaux: 2 mètres de drap.
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(7) Tailleur en drap prune. La tunique bordée d'un biais piqué de blanc recouvre la jupe ornée de deux volants en forme. Jaquette courte derrière et sur les côtés, les pans de devant un peu plus longs. Col et revers découpés en deux pointes; parements crispins doubles. Col montant en velours.
(7) Plum cloth suit. The tunic edged with a white stitched bias covers the skirt decorated with two shaped flounces. Short jacket at the back and sides, the front panels a little longer. Collar and lapels cut into two points; double crispin facings. High velvet collar.
Matériaux: 7m,50 de drap.
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(8) Dos de la figure 7.
#La Mode nationale#20th century#1900s#1900#on this day#January 27#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#color#description#bibliothèque nationale de france#dress#cape#collar#children#devant et dos#january color plates#fav january
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Vietwardian look 2/? — This Vietwardian socialite is prepared to stab a man with her letter opener if she hears one more word of nonsense out of his mouth.
This gown is based on a classic áo dài, but with an Edwardian train and cold-shoulder lace sleeves. The black bobbinet overlay retains the raglan line of an áo dài, combined with a sweetheart neckline. The body panels are linen damask draped over a structured under-bodice, embroidered and beaded with glass jet and cut steel. Rather than traditional trousers, the gown is worn over a frilly black cotton petticoat. The gold bib necklace is inspired by traditional Vietnamese kiềng, particularly the beautiful styles worn by the Hmong, and Art Nouveau enameled jewelry. Her khăn đóng is cloth of gold.
Do not remove my caption, crop, edit, or repost on any platform.
#my art#vietwardian lookbook#illustration#god i desperately want to make this look#added an explanation of the design!
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leFlacon, The Sleeper II
Finally, it has arrived.
Read more for a lot of nitpicking and complaining.
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To be honest, I’m a bit bothered about this release...I preordered it in November of 2021 (!) and it was supposed to ship in spring of 2022, but was delayed due to pandemic/factory delay reasons. Which is understandable, but again and again, leflacon kept telling me “it will be ready in july... august... november...” until finally, a year after the original ship date, they are ready.
I have mixed feelings about leFlacon in general. I find their quality not up to the price point (even on Taobao, which is cheaper than their global store), and the final product can differ from the listing/sample photos. Whether or not the sample pictures are just photographed really well (a lot of them seem to be overexposed or blown out, so it’s difficult to see the quality of material), or the sample is really a totally different piece, only the shop knows, I suppose. What I especially notice is that the sample piece can differ in dimensions/proportions compared to the final product, although the measurements provided in the listing itself are accurate, so don’t worry about that.
Anyways, despite the above, I like and own a couple leFlacon items with mixed feelings that vary on the item. I had felt a little snubbed in the past, but I still like leFlacon’s designs and brand concept, so I decided to take a gamble and purchase this one. Not sure if the long delay was some kind of sign, though.
The quality is fine--I definitely received what was on the tin, I think. The construction is also fine, and I don’t see any glaring problems with the stitching. But here are some notes I felt like making about the piece (good and bad):
The material is quite thin.
It’s cotton, and this thinness could be considered an advantage--slightly gauzy and nice for summer. It does wrinkle easily, but I don’t think this is necessarily a bad thing. The dress has a kind of frumpiness in its design with its long length and oversized sleeves, so wrinkles make it feel comfy and lived-in if the wrinkles are in areas that would happen naturally with wear (and not like you put it on after stuffing it in your closet in a ball).
The dress is completely unlined, not even in the bodice.
Not really a problem since I imagine most will wear with a petticoat/underskirt and camisole, but I wasn’t expecting unlined (I don’t own other leFlacon dresses, only accessories, so I’m not sure if this is normal for the brand). I think this might be due to the insertion lace making adding lining costly/difficult, but it wouldn’t have been impossible. Not a dealbreaker, but odd, I think, since the material is so thin it’s see-through.
(Although, the seraphim OP below seems unlined too, so maybe that’s just how these things are.)
All of the lace is synthetic (except the bottom “lace” panel)
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leFlacon seems to use stretch lace a lot, which I think has the advantage of being both very cost effective and soft/not scratchy. It may have a tiny bit of a glittery effect or sheen due to the synthetic content. Some may actually prefer this, but I’m not a fan, personally. After spending so many years surrounded by cotton lace pieces, I think synthetic lace just doesn’t feel as delicate to me.
All of the wider lace portions (such as the bib lace and sleeve ribbons) are stretchy. The insertion lace portion uses a convincingly historical looking bobbin lace portion, but it is also synthetic (nylon, maybe?). It looks completely fine from far away and presents no problems, but I also think that synthetic really pales in comparison to real cotton bobbin lace. Pictured is a small length taken from my stash, purchased from Japan, but originally imported from France.
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I recall brands such as Seraphim use high quality cotton lace for their insertion portions, so they’re out there.
Edit: A late thought, but I should note that Pink House (which is one of leFlacon’s style inspirations) uses high quality cotton lace like the above on their pieces (notably the underskirts which have insertion lace) as well.
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Seraphim, Miranda OP
The bottom of the dress uses an embroidered cotton lace panel. The density of the embroidered threads is not as high as some other brand lace I’ve seen in the past, and has a slightly blurry appearance because of it.
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(Not as sharp a photo as I would like, but hopefully the point is expressed...)
Compare old AP lace with newer (almost all pieces from 2019 or so, though the following example is older) custom lace. AP hasn’t used lace with a cotton base very often in recent years, so it was difficult for me to think of an example. Below is tulle lace, which utilizes the same concepts.
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AP Creamy Cherry (2017) top; Wrapping Cherry (2016) bottom
However, I think it would be unreasonable to expect a brand at this price point (despite my price complaints) to find a large panel of very high quality cotton lace to use on the dress, which would likely be very costly, so don’t consider this a real complaint.
...
and the menial gripes:
Skirt centre seam
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The skirt joins with a long seam right down the middle, to join the skirt details into its signature ‘V’ shape. The seam ends at the horizontal pintuck portion. I was under the impression that a seam in a place so obvious is a bit of a no-no, but because of the skirt pintucks and V shape, I believe logistically it made the most sense to just sew it all up with a centre seam. But, I don’t have to like this or the way it looks, and I still think there are ways to prevent the seam along the top portion of the skirt.
A centre seam also seems to make the fabric inclined to fold in where it is located (at the middle), which I don’t love but I suppose it hides the seam and looks pretty normal.
Bib lace
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I wouldn’t consider this a real gripe, but the bib lace doesn’t extend all the way to the back. This is a design decision you can see from the stock photo scratch that, I just checked and there are almost no pictures of the back, only one photo where the model is turned slightly to the side so you get the slightest glimpse, but it is definitely not the focus.
I did strike me as a bit weird because the pieces I’m used to looking at have lace up to the back.
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Sheglit, Edelweiss OP
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A random Gunne Sax dress referenced from some seller on Poshmark because I don’t own any GS dresses with this type of bib (very sorry seller for using your photo, someone please send me a photo I can use)
Price
The preorder price at the time for this piece was 968 RMB total (368 at the end of 2021, 600 in 2023...I note this because the exchange rate has fluctuated wildly in that time). For the delay, all customers who preordered (on Taobao, I don’t know about the global store) were entitled to a tiny refund of 30 RMB, plus free shipping (11 RMB value).
The dress is back on preorder right now for about 200 RMB more (1280 I think), and $269 USD on the global store.
Conclusion?
To be clear, I do like the dress, and I really like the design! Otherwise, I wouldn’t have even purchased it in the first place. I’m happy to finally have the piece in my hands, and opted to wait it out instead of asking for a refund for a reason. I do feel like I received the piece I ordered, I just wanted to write down my mental complaints. This post is mostly for me, and I’m probably going to be embarrassed later, writing so much about the minutiae...
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M'kay, got the bodice sewn to the skirt. Now just need to make the bib-front, waist ties, and then tuck and hem the skirt itself.
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February 24, 2023 - Milan
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Florence graced the front row at Gucci during Milan Fashion Week.
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She's wearing a @gucci Spring 2023 Twinsburg powder blue accordion-plissé silk chiffon gown that features a high neckline, a ruffled bib, sequin-embroidered bodice with crystal tassel detail, trumpet sleeves and a flowy train.
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Accessories include a statement piece all-over beaded clutch bag with a clasp closure and a detachable pearl fringe shoulder strap and edgy black leather studded buckle sandals from the same collection.
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Styling: @aldenejohnson MUA: @sarahreygate using @guccibeauty Hair: @leighkeateshair
#florence welch#florence and the machine#dance fever#milan fashion week#front row#gucci#gucci beauty#alessandro michele#what is florence wearing
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