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beyondfabric · 4 months ago

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Brands to Know: Atelier Estorninho

Portugal is renowned for its fashion industry worldwide, with some the leadi ng fashion labels producing in its collections here due to the vast know-how and expert craftsmanship. It’s a fact that the quality/price ratio is virtually unmatched, what might lead us to think that we’d have a burgeoning market for new designers and independent fashion brands to pave their way into the mainstream market. However, that is not the case here, as let’s admit it, we lack the branding capacity to make it happen and government support is solely focused on massive scale internationalization.

Nonetheless, every now and then a new name pops that caughts the attention on both local and international markets with the prime players being Portuguese Flannel, La Paz and more recently, Ernest W Baker. As you may know by now if you’ve following me for a while, I’m a sucker for promoting local quality products and projects and on this note, today I bring you and up and coming label that has been gaining momentum in the local scene: Atelier Estorninho.

Inspired by a retro-vintage meets military aesthetic, Estorninho has been consistently putting out interesting designs that are thoroughly tested before hitting the shelves, a philosophy I can relate with including in my own project. I reached out to Hugo, the brands founder, to learn a bit more about his vision of contemporary menswear

1 - Hi Hugo. Can you tell us a bit more about what lead you to create this eponymous label?

The creation of Atelier Estorninho was driven by a desire to blend my personal interests in classic timeless garments, vintage aesthetics and military-inspired fashion with modern textile technology. I wanted to bring a unique perspective to the industry, offering pieces that are not only stylish but also functional and timeless.

2 - Do you come from a fashion background or is it born out of pure passion?

While I don't have a traditional fashion background, I do have a strong foundation in design. Since I was a kid, I always dreamed of pursuing a creative career. I was obsessed with video games like Medal of Honor, action figures like G.I. Joes and war movies, and I often funnily geared up in camouflage in kindergarten. My passion for creativity and design, combined with my fascination with military aesthetics, naturally led me to start my own label. Although I've never had any formal classes related to fashion, my journey into this field is fueled by pure passion and a lifelong love for innovative and expressive design. I've always been fascinated by how fashion can tell a story and express individuality, which motivated me to start my own label.

3 - You have a keen eye to create stand out pieces with heavy military influence but that simultaneously merge preppy elements. What inspired you to go this way?

The inspiration comes from a love of classic military uniforms and their functionality combined with the refined, versatile and polished look of preppy style. I wanted to create a fusion that captures the best of both worlds – ruggedness and elegance.

Specific army uniforms that have influenced my designs include the US Army's OG 107 uniforms issued during the Vietnam War, named after their color (Olive Green, shade 7). These uniforms inspired the cut of my cargo trousers and the rear patch pockets with flap closures. Another significant influence is the Gurkha shorts used by the British military, named after the fierce Nepalese soldiers. The wide fit of these shorts inspired the silhouette for my Ivy Chino Shorts.

Additionally, my Ivy Chino Trousers are inspired by the French Military M-52 trousers, known for their back flap pockets and shallow pleats. These trousers were adopted by the French army in 1952, during a time when iconic designers like Christian Dior, Balenciaga, and Chanel were active, marking the golden age of French fashion. This era also saw significant events such as the China War and the Algerian War, where military force played a crucial role. The M-52s were created in this historical context and were mass-produced as French uniforms for about a decade.

On the preppy side, the reason I named many of my clothing items "Ivy" is because I am very interested in the clothing worn on college campuses during the late 1950s in the Northeastern United States, particularly those of the Ivy League. These institutions were the predecessors of preppy style, and I wanted to embody the lifestyle of someone who lived in an Ivy League school environment. This includes a shared dorm room and a small wardrobe that demands a carefully curated selection of items elegant enough for classes, lectures, and school events, but also comfortable, stylish, and versatile enough for adolescent life—whether wrestling around at the park with friends or grabbing a beer at the bar. These clothes are meant to be reliable companions in every situation. My Ivy League Cardigan is inspired by the cardigans worn during that era too, but combining it's charm with a cozy feeling of a hoodie by utilising jersey fabric instead and kangaroo pockets, just like your favourite hoodie.

By merging these historical military elements, preppy charm and modern fabrics, I hope to create distinctive and versatile pieces that stand out.

4 - What would you say are the trademark features of an Atelier Estorninho item?

Simple: Timeless charm, deliberate craftsmanship, premium materials.

5 - You approach each design carefully, releasing limited styles and runs at a time. Is this a necessity due to the scale of the brand or a business model in itself?

It's both a strategic choice and a practical necessity. Being the sole designer, I take a hands-on approach to every aspect of the creation process—I love every bit of it, but it's a ton of work! Although I have a small team, this setup enables me to produce meticulously crafted items that stand out and ensures each piece meets exacting standards for quality and timeless design. Limiting our runs isn't just about enhancing exclusivity; it's about managing production sustainably and staying true to my commitment to quality over quantity.

6 - What’s your favourite item in the collection and why?

My favorite item would have to be our signature military-inspired Ivy Chino Shorts. They perfectly encapsulate the brand’s ethos, combining quality, practicality, and versatility with style. The attention to detail and the story behind their design make them a standout piece in the collection. Features like the double pleats, side waist adjusters, and flexible cotton fabric ensure comfort and ease of movement. The deep front slanted pockets and two back pockets with flaps provide convenient storage where your items won’t fall out. These shorts can be dressed up or down thanks to their classic and elegant cut. The use of Spanish luxury cotton fabric, Italian corozo buttons, and patterned pocket liners add a fine, luxurious touch to the detail.

7 - We seem to share a common passion for unique trouser styles. In your opinion, what makes trousers so special?

Trousers are a cornerstone of any outfit, second only to shoes in their visual impact. They have the power to transform the overall look and feel of an ensemble. For me, investing in high-quality trousers is crucial; I'd prefer to pair a $100 pair of trousers with a $10 t-shirt rather than the reverse.

I have very specific rules for trousers: the leg opening shouldn't be tight on the ankle, but rather sit at least half the length of your feet. This ensures a comfortable fit and a balanced silhouette. I also prefer high-waisted trousers with a long fly on a man, as this enhances a man's physique and silhouette, providing a classic and flattering look. Additionally, a straight cut for a standard fit is my go-to, as it offers timeless elegance and versatility.

Personally, I prefer pleats for suit trousers and chinos, as they add a touch of elegance and functionality, providing extra room and comfort. For jeans, selvedge denim is my fabric of choice due to its durability and classic appeal. The meticulous craftsmanship involved in creating selvedge, indigo dyed denim results in a superior product that ages beautifully over time.

One of the reasons I focus so much on trousers is that they need to be both stylish and functional. People often tell me how much they appreciate the practical elements, such as deep pockets and durable fabrics, alongside the aesthetic appeal. For example, my cargo trousers, feature rear patch pockets with flap closures that are both stylish and highly functional. Additionally, the preppy influence in my designs, particularly seen in my Ivy Chino Trousers, offers a versatile option that fits seamlessly into various settings, from casual to more formal occasions, you'll always look appropriate and stylish.

Trousers not only provide structure and style but also offer versatility and comfort. They carry a lot of personality in a look, more than any graphic t-shirt ever can in my opinion. Their design, fabric, and fit can dramatically enhance personal style and make a strong fashion statement. The right pair of trousers can elevate any ensemble.

8 - You recently launched a capsule collection at The Feeting Room. What are the future plans in terms of collections and brand evolution?

I plan to continue exploring new design ideas and collaborations, maybe diving deeper into functionality, timelessness, and style. I aim to create clothing that is practical and comfortable for traveling or everyday errands, yet elegant. This includes incorporating classic visual influences, durable construction, functional pockets, and using natural and luxury fabrics.

For the long term, I hope to continue capturing an essence of timeless masculine charm, balancing ruggedness and elegance. Maybe including a women's collection too, with a different approach that merges seamlessly with the brand. I hope to expand internationally and eventually open a flagship store. I hope to create memorable pieces in my customers' wardrobes, prioritizing owning less but owning better.

9 - Where can we get your items?

Our collections are available at select boutiques, including The Feeting Room, and through our online store. We also participate in pop-up events and fashion fairs, which are great opportunities for customers to experience our brand in person.

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