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Brycelands FW Lookbook

The Hong Kong-based label takes us on an indoor journey through some of the best curated "Stay at Home" looks out there. I've been a fan of Kenji Cheung and Ethan Newton's label for quite some time now, as they seamlessly blend workwear with sartorial elements and somewhat of an oriental twist that harmoniously blends it all together.

An unusual combination that is nothing short of breatyhtaking upon materialized in impeccably styled looks worn with a matching attitude.

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Remembering Alain Delon

Rest in style legend

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Brands to Know: Atelier Estorninho

Portugal is renowned for its fashion industry worldwide, with some the leadi ng fashion labels producing in its collections here due to the vast know-how and expert craftsmanship. It’s a fact that the quality/price ratio is virtually unmatched, what might lead us to think that we’d have a burgeoning market for new designers and independent fashion brands to pave their way into the mainstream market. However, that is not the case here, as let’s admit it, we lack the branding capacity to make it happen and government support is solely focused on massive scale internationalization.

Nonetheless, every now and then a new name pops that caughts the attention on both local and international markets with the prime players being Portuguese Flannel, La Paz and more recently, Ernest W Baker. As you may know by now if you’ve following me for a while, I’m a sucker for promoting local quality products and projects and on this note, today I bring you and up and coming label that has been gaining momentum in the local scene: Atelier Estorninho.

Inspired by a retro-vintage meets military aesthetic, Estorninho has been consistently putting out interesting designs that are thoroughly tested before hitting the shelves, a philosophy I can relate with including in my own project. I reached out to Hugo, the brands founder, to learn a bit more about his vision of contemporary menswear

1 - Hi Hugo. Can you tell us a bit more about what lead you to create this eponymous label?

The creation of Atelier Estorninho was driven by a desire to blend my personal interests in classic timeless garments, vintage aesthetics and military-inspired fashion with modern textile technology. I wanted to bring a unique perspective to the industry, offering pieces that are not only stylish but also functional and timeless.

2 - Do you come from a fashion background or is it born out of pure passion?

While I don't have a traditional fashion background, I do have a strong foundation in design. Since I was a kid, I always dreamed of pursuing a creative career. I was obsessed with video games like Medal of Honor, action figures like G.I. Joes and war movies, and I often funnily geared up in camouflage in kindergarten. My passion for creativity and design, combined with my fascination with military aesthetics, naturally led me to start my own label. Although I've never had any formal classes related to fashion, my journey into this field is fueled by pure passion and a lifelong love for innovative and expressive design. I've always been fascinated by how fashion can tell a story and express individuality, which motivated me to start my own label.

3 - You have a keen eye to create stand out pieces with heavy military influence but that simultaneously merge preppy elements. What inspired you to go this way?

The inspiration comes from a love of classic military uniforms and their functionality combined with the refined, versatile and polished look of preppy style. I wanted to create a fusion that captures the best of both worlds – ruggedness and elegance.

Specific army uniforms that have influenced my designs include the US Army's OG 107 uniforms issued during the Vietnam War, named after their color (Olive Green, shade 7). These uniforms inspired the cut of my cargo trousers and the rear patch pockets with flap closures. Another significant influence is the Gurkha shorts used by the British military, named after the fierce Nepalese soldiers. The wide fit of these shorts inspired the silhouette for my Ivy Chino Shorts.

Additionally, my Ivy Chino Trousers are inspired by the French Military M-52 trousers, known for their back flap pockets and shallow pleats. These trousers were adopted by the French army in 1952, during a time when iconic designers like Christian Dior, Balenciaga, and Chanel were active, marking the golden age of French fashion. This era also saw significant events such as the China War and the Algerian War, where military force played a crucial role. The M-52s were created in this historical context and were mass-produced as French uniforms for about a decade.

On the preppy side, the reason I named many of my clothing items "Ivy" is because I am very interested in the clothing worn on college campuses during the late 1950s in the Northeastern United States, particularly those of the Ivy League. These institutions were the predecessors of preppy style, and I wanted to embody the lifestyle of someone who lived in an Ivy League school environment. This includes a shared dorm room and a small wardrobe that demands a carefully curated selection of items elegant enough for classes, lectures, and school events, but also comfortable, stylish, and versatile enough for adolescent life—whether wrestling around at the park with friends or grabbing a beer at the bar. These clothes are meant to be reliable companions in every situation. My Ivy League Cardigan is inspired by the cardigans worn during that era too, but combining it's charm with a cozy feeling of a hoodie by utilising jersey fabric instead and kangaroo pockets, just like your favourite hoodie.

By merging these historical military elements, preppy charm and modern fabrics, I hope to create distinctive and versatile pieces that stand out.

4 - What would you say are the trademark features of an Atelier Estorninho item?

Simple: Timeless charm, deliberate craftsmanship, premium materials.

5 - You approach each design carefully, releasing limited styles and runs at a time. Is this a necessity due to the scale of the brand or a business model in itself?

It's both a strategic choice and a practical necessity. Being the sole designer, I take a hands-on approach to every aspect of the creation process—I love every bit of it, but it's a ton of work! Although I have a small team, this setup enables me to produce meticulously crafted items that stand out and ensures each piece meets exacting standards for quality and timeless design. Limiting our runs isn't just about enhancing exclusivity; it's about managing production sustainably and staying true to my commitment to quality over quantity.

6 - What’s your favourite item in the collection and why?

My favorite item would have to be our signature military-inspired Ivy Chino Shorts. They perfectly encapsulate the brand’s ethos, combining quality, practicality, and versatility with style. The attention to detail and the story behind their design make them a standout piece in the collection. Features like the double pleats, side waist adjusters, and flexible cotton fabric ensure comfort and ease of movement. The deep front slanted pockets and two back pockets with flaps provide convenient storage where your items won���t fall out. These shorts can be dressed up or down thanks to their classic and elegant cut. The use of Spanish luxury cotton fabric, Italian corozo buttons, and patterned pocket liners add a fine, luxurious touch to the detail.

7 - We seem to share a common passion for unique trouser styles. In your opinion, what makes trousers so special?

Trousers are a cornerstone of any outfit, second only to shoes in their visual impact. They have the power to transform the overall look and feel of an ensemble. For me, investing in high-quality trousers is crucial; I'd prefer to pair a $100 pair of trousers with a $10 t-shirt rather than the reverse.

I have very specific rules for trousers: the leg opening shouldn't be tight on the ankle, but rather sit at least half the length of your feet. This ensures a comfortable fit and a balanced silhouette. I also prefer high-waisted trousers with a long fly on a man, as this enhances a man's physique and silhouette, providing a classic and flattering look. Additionally, a straight cut for a standard fit is my go-to, as it offers timeless elegance and versatility.

Personally, I prefer pleats for suit trousers and chinos, as they add a touch of elegance and functionality, providing extra room and comfort. For jeans, selvedge denim is my fabric of choice due to its durability and classic appeal. The meticulous craftsmanship involved in creating selvedge, indigo dyed denim results in a superior product that ages beautifully over time.

One of the reasons I focus so much on trousers is that they need to be both stylish and functional. People often tell me how much they appreciate the practical elements, such as deep pockets and durable fabrics, alongside the aesthetic appeal. For example, my cargo trousers, feature rear patch pockets with flap closures that are both stylish and highly functional. Additionally, the preppy influence in my designs, particularly seen in my Ivy Chino Trousers, offers a versatile option that fits seamlessly into various settings, from casual to more formal occasions, you'll always look appropriate and stylish.

Trousers not only provide structure and style but also offer versatility and comfort. They carry a lot of personality in a look, more than any graphic t-shirt ever can in my opinion. Their design, fabric, and fit can dramatically enhance personal style and make a strong fashion statement. The right pair of trousers can elevate any ensemble.

8 - You recently launched a capsule collection at The Feeting Room. What are the future plans in terms of collections and brand evolution?

I plan to continue exploring new design ideas and collaborations, maybe diving deeper into functionality, timelessness, and style. I aim to create clothing that is practical and comfortable for traveling or everyday errands, yet elegant. This includes incorporating classic visual influences, durable construction, functional pockets, and using natural and luxury fabrics.

For the long term, I hope to continue capturing an essence of timeless masculine charm, balancing ruggedness and elegance. Maybe including a women's collection too, with a different approach that merges seamlessly with the brand. I hope to expand internationally and eventually open a flagship store. I hope to create memorable pieces in my customers' wardrobes, prioritizing owning less but owning better.

9 - Where can we get your items?

Our collections are available at select boutiques, including The Feeting Room, and through our online store. We also participate in pop-up events and fashion fairs, which are great opportunities for customers to experience our brand in person.

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Mads Mikkelsen for Zegna, shot in Shanghai

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Aimé Leon Dore SS24 drop #2

The gift that keeps on giving.

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Love to see a revamped @dunhill under the helm of Simon Holloway. An ode to classic menswear that exudes luxury and sophistication while feeling fresh and contemporary.

Looking forward to see more.

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Beams Plus SS24 Lookbook

Almost as an antagonistic approach to the previous post, today we delve into the brilliance of Beams Plus and its uncanny ability to merge nuances from different historical fashion movements with other more varied influences.

As usual, the Japanese label gifts us with their unique view of contemporary menswear, which often includes oddities and unexpected combos. The beauty of it though, relies on the fact that what initially seemed distracting or even strange to the eye, soon becomes harmonious and serene.

Bending classic menswear and styling rules, but maintaining their quintessential principles, Beams can coordinate a range of beautifully styled ensembles that inspire us to experiment and risk outside our preconceived notions.

The collection is now available at Beams' official website and select retailers worldwide.

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Brunello Cucinelli SS24 Lookbook

Cucinelli is always a great palate cleanser of sorts when it comes to menswear. Hailed as the epitome of luxury and embodying the quintessential hallmarks of the "quiet luxury" rage that has been swiping the fashion scene, the Italian brand still remains the go-to choice of the tasteful ultra-wealthy.

And truth be told, it's easy to understand why. The formula needs no introduction nor alteration, as it materializes the very essence of luxury menswear. The trademark palette of cream and nude shades bring a soothening, sophisticated touch to the tailored looks, often toned down through combinations with worn out denim.

Monochrome remains the word of order as tonal garments are seamlessly layered to deliver high-end Summer looks that are both comfortable and impeccable.

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Introducing: Mr. Archive

What better way to kickstart 2024 than with one the most beautifully curated, styled and fair-priced vintage stores out there?

Mr. Archive has been one of my go-to places the last few months, be it for visual inspiration on their instagram profile or the browse some of the most interesting pieces around. To be fair, after 15 years of working in this industry is getting more and more difficult for me to find garments and brands that are truly exciting and fresh. If on top of that we take into account the price point of some of these labels, many of which produce in Portugal with accessible costs, my enthusiasm dims even further.

I’ve always been passionate about the universe of vintage and pre worn garments, but this love has been fueled in recent years by the appearance of highly specialized shops that seem to be perfectly in tune with my personal style. I’ve had the chance to chat with Matteo, the mastermind behind Mr. Archive to learn more about this outstanding project.

BF: I came across Mr. Archive fairly recently and I must say that it definitely hit a soft spot within the range of vintage providers currently on my radar. How long have you been in business? What drove you to create it?

Matteo: I'm passionate about my job, believe I have a somewhat general knowledge of the fashion world, but about 4 years ago, I got fascinated by this industry, even though I already knew it. I come from a family that has always worked in the clothing industry.

BF: For me, your selection is perfectly curated, bringing a mix of military and navy-inspired garments, with a twist of Americana. Is this an extension of your own style and taste, or is it more business-oriented?

Matteo: What I propose is all based on my personal taste; I create outfits on the spot, drawing inspiration from magazines, newspapers, etc., and then I elaborate and create. My mom is an artist, and I think I took inspiration from her.

BF: Vintage has always inspired me ever since I got into fashion roughly 15 years ago. There's just something distinctive about the fabrics and the history behind each garment that you can not replicate with new items. How/where do you source your amazing selection?

Matteo: My pieces come from warehouses worldwide; I'm constantly looking for new things, and that's the wonderful thing about my job! I have strong trust in my suppliers!

BF: With sustainability being the word of order when it comes to fashion, have you noticed an increase in demand for pre-owned garments? Do you think part of the solution can be provided by vintage?

Matteo: Recently, there has been an increase in the purchase of vintage and second-hand clothing items. To be honest, I believe that a few years ago, not many people knew about this world, but now it's expanding and captivating even those who knew little about it.

BF: I noticed you have a small capsule of garments carrying your own label, namely selvedge denim and accessories. What's the story behind those? Can we expect more designs in the future?

Matteo: I won't deny that creating my own clothing line would be a great personal satisfaction, a significant growth. I recently created a small line, "MRARCHIVE," currently composed of jackets, pants, and hats. One day, I'd like to expand, but I still have much to learn and study.

BF: Any tips or advice you wish to leave for those more reluctant to explore the world of previously owned items? It's still somewhat taboo for some people.

For many people, this world is still a taboo; they're still stuck in the thought of "they're used clothes." What I think is that one should see the story and originality behind each piece to appreciate its value, both from a historical and an aesthetic perspective. Sometimes, I compare some clothing items to paintings—they should be framed.

You can find Mr. Archive here.

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Todd Snyder SS24 Lookbook

Wishing for warmer days with @toddsnyderny SS24 Lookbook. As they so eloquently put it, the collection is an ode to an endless summer brimming with warm breezes, cold beer and the perfect soundtrack.

An exercise in comfort sophistication that brings together tailored elements with looser silhouettes and breezier, Summer-ready essentials.

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Beyond Fabric x Norwegian Rain #2

The third look of the Norwegian Rain series features a contemporary take on the traditional three piece suit.

Well, let’s face it, any suit by T-Michael despite being rooted in tailoring techniques is far from traditional per se, so I took the opportunity to play with length and proportions. A timeless navy suit paired with a long tunic and loafers that matched beautifully the tan of the raincoat.

Photo: Elisabeth Teixeira

Styling & model: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Items: Norwegian Rain coat, navy suit by T-Michael, long tunic by Beyond Fabric, braided loafers by Buttero

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Drake’s FW23 Lookbook

There’s a reason menswear enthusiasts crave the cold season: layering. The ability to delve into the fundamentals of styling to create complex attires that appear seamlessly non chalant.

An art in itself that once mastered, as any other, allows it user to strive for greatness and elevation amidst his peers. Something quite evident in all of the pictures above.

A masterclass in dressing for the season, bearing in mind not only aesthetic but functionality as well. The collection is now available online at Drake’s official website, here.

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Essential outerwear inspiration, courtesy of Ralph Lauren's FW23 Collection.

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Beyond Fabric x Norwegian Rain

A while back I was challenged by T-Michael and Alex over at Norwegian Rain to rethink modern officewear using some of their most classic raincoats. A sort of a social experiment aimed at registering a moment in time and context, that portrays my interpretation of professional attires in 2023.

Inspired by 3 of Norwegian Rain’s weatherproof styles, I put together 3 different looks I could wear to work in a not overly formal environment. Breaking down the traditional suit and tie paradigm, all 3 proposals are polished and sophisticated, with their own unique twists.

The first, depicted here, is a vintage-inspired combination that feels fresh by incorporating the raincoat’s technical fabric and a raw hemmed flannel sports jacket. On the more classic end, we have a stripped club collar shirt and wool tie, paired with off white corduroy trousers.

Ph: Elisabeth Teixeira

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Beams + FW23 Lookbook

As usual, Beams + latest FW23 Lookbook cannot be overlooked. A continuous, coherent perusal of menswear staples drawing influences from everything from Ivy League to streetwear, that always feels fresh and contemporary.

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Louis Vuitton Saint-Tropez Café

Fashion brands are having a blast this Summer, boasting pop-ups in highly sought havens and venturing into lifestyle ventures through restaurants and cafes.

Louis Vuitton has recently joined the movement with its Saint-Tropez café headed by Michelin-Star awarded Chef Arnauld Donckele. Serving French-Riviera inspired dishes, this is the go-to place if you’re around.

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A selection of looks from @stoffa collection 04. A prime example of how cut, fit, design and curated simplicity can deliver some of the most sophisticated garments around.

Special emphasis on the subdued colour palette that just screams perfection.