#Spring 2016 Haute Couture

[guopei]

Guo Pei- Spring/Summer 2016

[vellaroque]

Armani Privé Spring 2016 couture

[alternativerunway]

Yiqing Yin Spring 2016 Couture

[cnladies]

ZHAO LUSI 赵露思 in Ulyana Sergeenko 2016 Spring/Summer Haute Couture | Weibo and Internet Video Summit 2024

Zhao Lusi: more photos here Weibo and Internet Video Summit 2024: more photos here

[forcedfemme-me]

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2016

[windsweptinred]

@zigzag-wanderer

PAOLO SEBASTIAN Couture Spring/Summer 2016

[dollsinvogue]

Monster High Howliday Cleo De Nile » Valentino haute couture spring/summer 2016

[judith-orshalimian]

Dice Kayek Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016 Details!

[arrakisser]

PAUL ATREIDES (HIGH FASHION EDITION)

Elie Saab Fall 2022 Haute Couture Balmain Fall/Winter 2016 Paris Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2019 DUNE: PART ONE, TWO (2021, 2024) dir. Denis Villeneuve

[thelibraryghost]

A Young Person's Introduction to Early 20th-Century Western Fashion

am i hip with the kids yet

General information Dotschkal, Janna. "1920's." FOUND. October 21, 2016. English Heritage. "Fashion Through History: Episode 3 – 1930s." YouTube. April 16, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Standardized Sizes in Womens Fashion and Why They FAILED." YouTube. May 16, 2021. Vintagebursche. "100 Years of Classic Menswear - and what we can learn from each decade." YouTube. February 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. May 20, 2018.

Accessories Cox, Abby. "Flappers, Y2K, & Capitalism are Why Women "Don't" Have Pockets." YouTube. January 12, 2023. Cox, Abby. "The Disappointing Truth On Why We Don't Wear Hats Anymore..." YouTube. December 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of the Iconic Cloche Hat: Making 1920s Fashion." YouTube. September 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "When Hats were Illegal: Sewing a Goth Edwardian Hat." YouTube. February 21, 2021. Sheehan, Sarah. "Neo-Egyptomania." PatternVault. December 31, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Did We Stop Wearing Hats?" YouTube. April 28, 2020.

Cosmetics Banner, Bernadette. "Making and Testing a Victorian Skincare Routine." YouTube. April 8, 2023. English Heritage. "1930s Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth." YouTube. December 18, 2018. Holland, Evangeline. "On How to Be Lovely." Edwardian Promenade. April 15, 2010. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023.

Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Wearing Overalls to Boycott Fashion Greedflation? Weird History of 1920." YouTube. March 16, 2024.

Gowns and formal wear Banner, Bernadette. "I Redesigned Mary Poppins' Jolly Holiday Dress Based on REAL Edwardian Lingerie Gowns." YouTube. February 20, 2021. Banner, Bernadette. "I Remade Mary Poppins’ Dress to be Actually Edwardian." YouTube. July 9, 2022. Cox, Abby. "Alexander McQueen & the Patriarchy Problem in Modern Fashion." YouTube. October 20, 2023. Cox, Abby. "What Makes a Gown Haute Couture (like House of Worth) in Victorian and Edwardian Eras?" YouTube. September 19, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "An Edwardian Woman's Fashion Evolution." YouTube. June 4, 2022. Oakes, Leimomi. "Terminology: what is a lingerie dress or lingerie frock? (and blouse, and skirt)." The Dreamstress. July 21, 2018. Rudolph, Nicole. "Stop Idolizing Coco Chanel: a shocking history of theft." YouTube. January 13, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth about the Fringed Flapper: Making 1920s Evening Dresses." YouTube. November 6, 2022. Vintagebursche. "1920s Theme Party - How to dress." YouTube. December 9, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Encyclopedia, Pt 1: Daywear." YouTube. November 27, 2019.

Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "I Tried Following a Real Edwardian Hair Care Routine." YouTube. May 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the Edwardian Era / Gibson Girl Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. June 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Titanic-era Hair Tutorial // Getting Dressed in the 1910's." YouTube.September 4, 2020. SnappyDragon. "Historical hair myths debunked : How often should you wash your hair—daily shampoo or no shampoo?" YouTube. August 12, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Weird Edwardian Beauty Tips." YouTube. February 11, 2017.

Laundry and starching Banner, Bernadette. "Ok but how did the Edwardians WASH these dresses?" YouTube. August 3, 2022.

Outerwear Cox, Abby. "Athleisure: Destroying Fashion & the Environment." YouTube. January 18, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "150 years of Masc Women causing a Moral Panic." YouTube. June 17, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "SPRING/SUMMER FASHION TRENDS REVIEW but it's 1936 (ft. original fabric samples!)." YouTube. April 22, 2022.

Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "I Made Witchy Edwardian Shoes by Hand!" YouTube. March 14, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Making 100 year old Comfy Slippers: Free Pattern!" YouTube. December 30, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The True History of Stiletto Heels : the battle between Ferragamo and Dior." YouTube. August 26, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Is No One Talking About 1930s Shoes?" YouTube. September 15, 2020.

Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "1903 Patented Bustle Pad Reconstruction." YouTube. June 8, 2019. Banner, Bernadette. "Achieving That Classic Edwardian Shape: Reconstructing a 1902 Bust Bodice." YouTube. April 16, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "So What are Guimpes Anyway? // Examining Antique Edwardian Guimpes." YouTube. August 21, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "They Wore Corsets in the 1920's?!" YouTube. January 29, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Brassieres End the Corset?" YouTube. February 28, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907." YouTube. November 1, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "How Flappers got their Figure: the 1920s Silhouette." YouTube. July 10, 2022. SnappyDragon. "How pin-up photos fooled dress history : the making and marketing of lingerie pictures." YouTube. April 1, 2023.

[madeleineengland]

- Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2016

- A Pathway in Monet’s Garden, Giverny by Claude Monet, 1902.

[lamaisongaga]

FASHION CREDITS: LADY GAGA BY ETHAN JAMES GREEN FOR VOGUE US OCTOBER ISSUE

I was highly expecting for Lady Gaga to land a Vogue cover and here we are, covering the October issue of the American Vogue. The photoshoot, which is highly inspired by her role as Harley Quinn in "Joker: Folie à Deux", was lensed by Ethan James Green.

Styling: Alex Harrington, makeup: Sarah Tanno-Stewart, hair: Frederic Aspiras, nails: Kim Truong using Glitterbels, tailors: Hailey Desjardins and Egle Paulauskaite, set design: Marla Weinhoff.

Photographed during her stay in Paris in July this year, the cover photo showcases Gaga in the blue embroidered trompe-l’œil synthetic hair coat made in collaboration with hairstylist Gary Gill from Balenciaga‘s 53rd Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection!

An iconic silhouette by now, Gaga rocks a pair of her favorite Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016 Kiki buckled black leather platform boots!

The mixture of couture, high-end designers and emerging talent is immense in this editorial as Gaga wears the grunge-inspired Hodakova Fall/Winter 2024 argyle double knit sweater in this hauntingly beautiful shot.

Hyperventilating is an UNDERSTATEMENT. I fell in love the moment John Galliano sent out his girls down the dramatic runway and ever since I was hoping to catch Gaga in one of the designs. Never would‘ve thought she‘d even get a whole custom look!

Gaga poses in custom Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal Haute Couture.

White cotton caisetted cape cut with the memory of an ulster coat, worn over a patinaed knitted silk bodysuit matching Gaga’s skin tone underpinned by a corset covered in jersey and a silicone hip prothèse.

A taped reverse swatching hat in white foam and caisetted cotton, patinaed knitted silk stockings and gloves, and custom Christian Louboutin for Margiela white patent leather criss-cross platform pumps with torn stocking overlay.

One thing you should know about Gaga is that she loves to layer multiple runway pieces to merge a whole new look.

From Dior‘s Resort 2025 collection, a love letter to Scotland, she wore a knitted argyle sweater with cut-outs, a tartan wool maxi dress which she layered underneath a mesh and metallic lace dress, and some argyle socks.

The Hodakova sweater makes a return, this time accessorized with an antique hand-painted plaque, ruby and diamond in 18kt gold brooch, and a smoky quartz and pearl in 18k gold brooch, both from Tony Duquette!

A shoe that changed herstory. Vivienne Westwood‘s infamous Fall/Winter 1993 Super Elevated Gillie platform shoes make a return, acquired from Pechuga Vintage. You might remember Gaga wearing a boot version of these for her 2010 Elle spread!

A firework of excitement ransacked my body when I first found out that Alessandro Michele would depart from Gucci to head over to Valentino as the new creative director.

LG is, to my knowledge, the first celebrity to rock a piece from the Resort 2025 "Avant Les Debuts" (Before the Beginning) collection – a pale yellow chiffon mini dress with high collar, tiered ruffle puff sleeves and floral sequin embroidery all over!

Paired with custom Maison Margiela distressed stockings and custom Christian Louboutin platform heels.

Gaga is working it in a bi-colored statuesque coat seen on Yohji Yamamoto‘s Fall/Winter 2024 "A Seamless Parable on Cubism" runway.

Rather than canvas and paint, Yamamoto’s medium is fabric and more than ever, it felt like he let his instinctual side take the wheel. Case in point: He said he couldn’t talk about how he’d arrived at these silhouettes. "During fittings, I can change, I can touch", he said with finality.

The look was crowned with a custom Vivienne Bow hat made of voluminous moiré fabric by emerging designer Andrew James!

One of the "Antwerp Six" designers, Dries Van Noten bid farewell earlier this Summer and decided to leave the fashion scene with a bang by celebrating his legacy at his final Spring/Summer 2025 collection where this epic embroidered cashmere coat is from.

Both her plaque-embellished black beanie...

...and double-breasted boxy oversized coat with peaked lapel are from The Row's Resort 2025 lookbook!

Gaga is the first ever person to wear this vintage Givenchy by Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1999 "Execution of Lady Jane Grey" Haute Couture chinoiserie embroidered silk balloon sleeve coat and bespoke black dress, both sourced from LILY et Cie.

In 1999, McQueen was going through, in his own words, "an emotional turmoil" both professionally and personally. But instead of relieving himself, he ventured into his own despair to understand his inner demons more poignantly. This painful journey led Lee to Paul Delaroche’s tragic but beautiful 1833 painting, "The Execution of Lady Jane Grey".

Like a painter to a blank canvas, McQueen filled an empty room with extravagant offerings: romantic silk ensembles with floral embroidery, 16th-century fur-trimmed tunics, luxurious velvet coats, as well as the designer’s signature leather suits, cowl-neck dresses, and even a heightened-for-couture bouffant piece that paid homage to his plaid.

Dialing in on his inspiration, McQueen presented his clothes not on models but on fiber-glass-headed mannequins that emerged from trap doors in batches, as if the audience were in an art gallery rather than a fashion show.

It's almost unrecognizable but Gaga is draping this Chanel Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture black silk taffeta opera coat around her torso. This piece, which served as the show's opening number, features a ruffled neck, bejeweled buttons and a voluminous cut.

[getincentstyle]

Zhao Lusi for Weibo TV & Internet Video Summit 2024 wearing Ulyana Sergeenko Spring/Summer 2016 Haute Couture

More photos HERE

[alternativerunway]

Yiqing Yin Spring 2016 Couture

[fashinistagirlunit4]

diversity on the catwalk

fashion creatives are embracing inclusivity and body positivity, exploring themes such as size, gender, age, race, and disability.

Precious Lee, Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser

The fashion industry is constantly improving and evolving, we are starting to see more culture and diversity through ought each season.

In July 2020, Gucci launched its new genderless shopping category on its website called ‘Gucci MX’ using only gender neutral models to showcase the pieces.

Brands such as Simone Rocha, Rachel Comey and Vivienna Westwood are starting to include many more older models to showcase their work this is making the fashion world more diverse and as the seasons go on their seems to be more inclusivity each time.

AlexandraKutas

Hailing from Ukraine, Alexandra Kutas claimed the title of the world’s first runway model in a wheelchair as well as Ukraine’s first fashion model with a disability. Alexandra modelled on the runway during Ukraine Fashion Week in 2015 and a couple of months later unveiled a photography exhibition called “Break Your Chains” alongside photographer Andrei Sarymsakov in an effort to break down society’s stereotypes and negative perceptions of people with disabilities.

Kelly Knox for Grazia 2018

Greater diversity within the fashion community opened up a space to celebrate all beauty and gave a platform for people with disabilities to be more visible. As a result we are seeing more people with disabilities making appearances on runways, on the cover of magazines, in fashion ads and beauty campaigns.

Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture spring/summer 1998

among the roster of major designers Jean Paul Gaultier is notable for his concerted adoption and celebration of queer aesthetics from placing men in skirts in 1985 to repeatedly drawing on the homoerotic motif of the Genet-esque muscly. Over the years he has had many collaborations and with friend and muse Tanel Bedrossiantz to various striking ends. In his spring summer 1998 Age of Enlightenment influenced couture show, Bedrossiantz apps rated in a tightly corseted ruffled gown over a white shirt and tie an image so iconic it was included in the catalogue for vogues 2019 camp.

Somali-American model, Halima Aden 2017

Halim Aden was the first Muslim woman to wear a hijab on the international high fashion catwalk at the Max Mara show held in Milan on 23rd February 2017.

Madeline Stuart is a 20-year-old model with Down syndrome from Brisbane, Australia. Madeline has walked in Art Hearts Fashion Week, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week China, Style Fashion Week, Melange Fashion Week, Runway Dubai, Sunshine Coast Fashion Festival, and Birmingham Fashion Week. She has appeared in Vogue, Teen Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Woman’s Day, Women’s Weekly, Elle, New York Times, People, Marie Claire, Huffington Post, and many more. She was also named Model of the Year in 2016.

Nina Marker famous model with autism

Nina Marker was scouted at a McDonald’s in 2014 and was quickly snatched up by Elite Model Management. She has walked the runway for Chanel, Dior, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Givenchy, Fendi, and Versace, among many others. Nina is an advocate for the Autistic community, as she herself has Asperger’s. She has talked openly about being treated differently when she was young and the depression she experienced following that; she is passionate about creating awareness for Autism and wants to show people that Autistic people can do anything they want to do.

Harvard Referencing:

Shutterstock (2020). Unforgettable Photographic Moments: 2020’s ‘Big Four’ Fashion Weeks. [online] The Shutterstock Blog. Available at: https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/big-four-fashion-weeks [Accessed 28 May 2023].

Mcloughlin, L. (2017). Ashley Graham shows off curvy figure in clinging latex mini dress. [online] Mail Online. Available at: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-4871728/Ashley-Graham-shows-curvy-figure-latex-mini-dress.html [Accessed 28 May 2023].

Brain, E. (2020). Gucci Mx Line Explores Gender Fluidity Within Fashion. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/gucci-mx-non-binary-gender-fluid-collection-fall-winter-2020-jackie-1961-bag-lookbook.

Tsui, D. (2019). Finally, Some Age Diversity on the Runway. [online] The Cut. Available at: https://www.thecut.com/2019/02/older-models-of-all-ages-were-on-the-runway-at-fashion-week.html.

Managment, M. (2018). | MiLK Model Management. [online] www.milkmanagement.co.uk. Available at: https://www.milkmanagement.co.uk/women/women/1152-kelly-knox/ [Accessed 28 May 2023].

The Photo Studio. (2018). 20 Disabled Models And How They Got Their Starts. [online] Available at: https://thephotostudio.com.au/all/modelling/20-disabled-models-and-how-they-got-their-starts/. [Accessed 7th June 2023]

Stuart , M. (2015). Madeline Stuart NYFW 1st catwalk appearance with my Jellyfish men. [online] www.youtube.com. Available at: https://youtu.be/n9PMB9y9xAc [Accessed 7 Jun. 2023].

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[thisislizheather]

Women Dressing Women Costume Exhibit at The Met

"The Costume Institute's fall 2023 exhibition will explore the creativity and artistic legacy of women fashion designers from The Met’s permanent collection, tracing a lineage of makers from the turn of the twentieth century to the present day by highlighting celebrated designers, new voices, and forgotten histories alike.

Women Dressing Women will feature the work of over seventy womenswear designers, spanning ca. 1910 to today, including French haute couture from houses such as Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Madeleine Vionnet, to American makers like Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo, along with contemporary designs by Iris van Herpen, Rei Kawakubo, Anifa Mvuemba, and Simone Rocha." - The Met

I love that The Met is doing two different costume exhibits a year now. This one only runs for three months, so obviously I had to go this week. Highlights below!

Above Photo: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Grace Wales Bonner at House of Dior, 2020, edition 2022

Above Photo: Louiseboulanger, 1928

Above Photo: Ana de Pombo at House of Paquin, 1938

Above Photo: Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2012

I remember when they last showed this McQueen piece in 2016 (at the Manus x Machina exhibit) and they’re finally highlighting the back of it, which I love.

Above Photo: Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons, spring/summer 1997

So in love with the story behind this design (above).

Above Photo: Norma Kamali, 1978

Above Photo: Betsey Johnson at Paraphernalia, 1966

Above Photo: Mad Carpentier, late 1940s

Above Photo: Melitta Baumeister, autumn/winter 2021-2022

At first glance, I really hated this one (above) and then after a few minutes it really grew on me, especially considering the fact that it’s a product of its time period.

Above Photo: Chanel, autumn/winter 1938-1939

Above Photo: Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy at Rodarte, autumn/winter 2006-2007

My favourite piece of the whole collection, by far.

Above Photo: Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy at Rodarte, autumn/winter 2006-2007 (the back of the dress)

And I love that someone had the good sense to put a mirror behind this one so we could see the all of the details.

The exhibit runs now until March 3rd.