#Marie Salamagne

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Dries Van Noten & Marie Salamagne / Eau de Parfum / Soie Malaquais / Fragrance / 2022

[odoroussavourssweet]

Sephora perfumes quick takes:

Givenchy Pi

Alberto Morillas, the man who created the 90s -- Pleasures, cK One, Acqua di Gio, Mugler Cologne, Marc Jacobs Daisy

Notes: mandarin, tarragon, rosemary, basil; anise, neroli, geranium, lily of the valley; vanilla, almond, tonka, benzoin, cedar

a mildly pleasant, sweet, biscuit-y thing, plus abstract woody-amber corporateness. Surprisingly likable.

Tom Ford Soleil Neige

"the nose behind this fragrance is Givaudan" lololol

Notes: bergamot, carrot seeds; orange blossom, white flowers, jasmine, rose; benzoin, vanilla, labdanum

weirdly it does make me think of sun on snow! I don't know why that has a smell!

YSL Libre

Moses: Anne Flipo & Carlos Benaim

lavender, orange, black currant, petigrain; lavender, orange blossom, jasmine; vanilla, ambergris, cedar

I'm surprised how much I like this! it's orange blossom, with a little weirdness in the opening that's apparently supposed to be lavender. I just like orange blossom, I guess. It smells good. Until the drydown, of course, which is cheap and tinny.

Armani Code

Nose: Antoine Lie

lemon, bergamot; star anise, olive blossom, guaiac; leather, tonka, tobacco

nasty, hostile, stinky-smoky-chemical top. It smells like a terrible person who enjoys hurting people. A fruity note underneath poking through, like orange, that might have been okay in a different perfume.

Twilly d'Hermes

Nose: Christine Nagel

Notes: ginger, bitter orange, bergamot; tuberose, orange blossom, jasmine; sandalwood, vanilla

a very fruity, pink, squeaky-clean tuberose; I might have liked it at age 13 when "dressing up" with real grownup feminine accoutrements was exciting. Too juvenile for me now, but I'll give it to her, the drydown is graceful and not screechy.

Dior Addict

Nose: Thierry Wasser

Notes: blackberry, mandarin; jasmine, night blooming cereus, orange blossom, rose; vanilla, tonka, sandalwood

playdoh top; sweet "vanilla" bottom. could conceivably have been worse, but that's a low fucking bar.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Nose: Alberto Morillas

Notes: chamomile, almond; musk, jasmine; sandalwood, cedar, vanilla

super faint, pleasant enough floral, smells like the soap in an old-fashioned Paris hotel with black-and-white tile bathrooms. Fine for what it is, I guess.

Chanel Gabrielle

Nose: Olivier Polge

Notes: grapefruit, mandarin, blackcurrant; orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, lily of the valley, pear, pink pepper; musk, sandalwood, cashmeran, orris

The thinnest, most nondescript synthetic floral imaginable. It doesn't smell outright bad, but it's basically a shrug in scent form.

Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom

Nose: Marie Salamagne

actually kind of nice, with the mildly cardboardy scent that mimosa can often have. a decent light-tan scent that isn’t too cliche.

Tom Ford Bitter Peach

peach, blood orange, cardamom, heliotrope; rum, cognac, davana, jasmine; patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka, cashmeran, benzoin, labdanum, styrax, vetiver

smells like peach, with, yes, more of a bitter-almond vibe and some pleasant tartness.

Do I want to smell like a peach? No. Do I like smelling it on the strip? Yeah.

Jo Malone Poppy & Barley

Notes: fig, blackcurrant, violet; wheat, powdery notes, poppy; barley, white musk, bran

nah. since poppies have no scent, they went with a fruity-powdery thing I find unpleasant.

Jo Malone Myrrh & Tonka

Notes: lavender, myrrh, tonka, vanilla, almond

it fits the "dark and sweet" expectations, but with so much "evil vibes" that I don't actually enjoy it.

Jo Malone Fig & Lotus Flower

Screechy chemical aquatic.

Lancome Idole

Notes: pear, bergamot; rose, jasmine; vanilla, musk

Zendaya notwithstanding, Idole is a pale, personality-less rosy thing. At least it's inoffensive.

Tom Ford Lost Cherry

Nose: Louise Turner

Notes: sour cherry, almond, liquor; plum, rose, jasmine; tonka, vanilla, peru balsam, benzoin, cinnamon, sandalwood, cedar, cloves, vetiver, patchouli

Take syrupy sour cherry jam; then add Evil Abstract Corporate aromachemicals. Now you have Evil Cherry. Christian Grey's Maraschino Cherry. I wonder if Tom Ford could just do that for all the fruits. Evil Apple? Evil Banana? I can't imagine who wants to wear Evil CEO Fruit, but it's such a wacky idea I gotta respect the hustle.

Jo Malone Vetiver & Vanilla

Notes: vetiver, vanilla, cardamom, tea, grapefruit

This one's not bad. Furry soft vetiver and sweet, golden vanilla. Mostly vanilla in the drydown but not 100% sugar.

Armani Si

Nose: Christine Nagel

Notes: cassis; rose, freesia; vanilla, patchouli, ambroxan, woods

Too sweet at first, but dries down kind of nice, skin-like, beige, with a sunniness that I thought was orange blossom.

[persolaise]

Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica Review - Marie Salamagne; 2014/2023

Wow… a Jo Malone scent that’s actually half-decent??!? — My thoughts on Tuberose Angelica.

A few of Jo Malone’s ‘cologne intense’ creations have had a packaging shake-up, and one of them, Tuberose Angelica (Marie Salamagne) was under the spotlight in a recent episode of Love At First Scent. Here’s a link: Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica review. (more…) “”

[angelitam]

Alien Goddess Supra Florale de Mugler

Version florale d’Alien Goddess de Mugler. Alien Goddess Supra Florale de Mugler Alien Goddess de Mugler se fait florale et libère une extraordinaire énergie. Alien Goddess Supra Florale de Mugler Alien Goddess Supra Florale de Mugler Elle est lumineuse. intrépide. féroce dans son désir de réenchanter le monde. alors que son pouvoir rayonne tout autour d’elle, la déesse fait des merveilles, et…

[cleolinda]

So I tried Black Opium Extreme again

A relatively simple installment this week: remember how I tried this one and got nothing but jasmine? Well, I remembered two things:

I tried this on my wrist, not the back of my hand.

I tried it only a couple days after the sample arrived in the mail, rather than letting it settle for a couple of weeks.

I cannot tell you why either of these things make a difference. All I can tell you is that I wore Black Opium Extreme again, and suddenly it was an intense mocha (more a chocolate supported by coffee than the other way around, on me) with an undertone of licorice. In fact, through the lifespan of the perfume, the white floral blend (jasmine and orange blossom) was the least noticeable. I mean, it was there, but you could smell it as part of all the other notes, not standing unto itself. And if you look up there in the original post, jasmine was all I got. Even after the coffee-chocolate-licorice fades, it's not really the jasmine that comes out; it's more of the pear-heavy gourmand I remember from getting vaguely sprayed with the original Black Opium at an Ulta.

And I have also been able to (re)try the original. Let's compare the notes for a moment:

Black Opium (2014): Pear, pink pepper, orange blossom, coffee, jasmine, bitter almond, licorice, vanilla, patchouli, cashmere wood (Cashmeran), cedar.

Black Opium Extreme (2021): Black coffee, cacao, mandarin orange, lemon, pear, jasmine (grandiflorum? sambac?), orange blossom, bourbon vanilla, patchouli.

(For the record: the creators are Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc.)

The newer variant is advertised as being very heavy on the "dark" gourmand notes, especially the coffee, and when I finally got Extreme to cooperate, that's what I got. Licorice isn't listed, but I feel like that's a big ol' lie, because I smell it more clearly here than in the original. Who knows? Not me.

As for the original, we gotta put an asterisk by this, because what I have is a very old Sephora sample (but less than ten years old). I think it aged really nicely, but I can't tell you for sure if the balance of the fragrance has changed—have the basenotes gotten stronger, has something else faded, what have you.

The original opens with the fruity pear-citrus blast that nearly choked me out while shopping; gradually the gourmand notes come out as a sort of pear cupcake foundation. I mostly read the (remember: aged) sample as a vanilla cupcake rather than a coffee or chocolate one, with those notes and the patchouli (which has probably aged very smoothly) subconsciously giving the base more weight. It doesn't come off like a mocha latte; it smells very Vanilla, and very Cake, and eventually, that's the scent left behind once the fruits have gone home. The white floral is still wound up in there, but again, you wouldn't really think of this as "floral" or "blooming," as opposed to the way that the Samsara EdT smelled oddly fresh and airy for a heavily sandalwood fragrance. So: A fresh batch of Black Opium might smell very different, but with this sample, that's what I get. The Extreme version is meant to bring the coffee and chocolate out and put it on top, so that checks out.

What any of this has to do with opium, or even Opium (1977), I do not know.

The thing that intrigues me is that I keep seeing jasmine/licorice combinations in perfume; I've been having a little trouble distinguishing licorice-anise notes, so I've been researching that. By researching, I mean "eating actual licorice candy even though I don't like it." The short version is that licorice, anise, star anise, fennel, and even magnolia blossoms all have a very characteristic smell/taste (granted, I have never eaten a magnolia blossom), and that common denominator is the compound anethole. That's what I'm looking into.

Jasmine sambac (aka night-blooming jasmine, mogra, sampaguita, melati putih, "Arabian jasmine") doesn't seem to have any anethole, but I'm convinced that it blends particularly well with licorice (etc.). As it turns out, I have a sample of Nemat's "Mogra," just because I like jasmine, and will you look at that: mogra is jasmine sambac. It's exactly what's in Black Opium(s). I don't care what anyone says, that's what it is. And jasmine sambac apparently has a scent that, if not containing anethole, is damn compatible with it; either I haven't learned to distinguish licorice very well yet, or they just blend together that well.

And I noticed that the jasmine/licorice combination is in two other fragrance samples I have: the original, eponymous Lolita Lempicka (1997), and the (for some reason completely different) eau de parfum concentration of HYPNOTIC POISON. So I'll be reporting back on those soon.

Perfume discussion masterpost

[gdbot]

Dries Van Noten & Marie Salamagne / Eau de Parfum / Soie... https://ift.tt/DkdIHcn Telegram: https://t.me/gdesignbot

[thebeautycove]

ATELIER DES ORS - BLUE MADELEINE - Memory Lane Collection - Eau de Parfum - Novità 2024 -

Welcome to the Proust syndrome club. Everything has a smell, every smell is a living memory. A scent for the moments I treasure most.

•

Ad ogni ricordo un odore, ad ogni profumo un pezzo di vita e memoria.  Spesso si è parlato delle madeleine di Proust che, per primo, descrisse ne La Recherche questa esperienza olfattiva legata ai famosi dolcetti francesi. Il loro aroma e sapore sollecita la memoria involontaria, quella che ti viene restituita in pienezza emotiva, richiamo sensoriale che fa emergere il passato attraverso un ricordo intenso e struggente.

Milioni di milioni i ricordi, custoditi con cura, alcuni nitidi, altri sfocati o sbriciolati dentro altri ricordi, un archivio di sensazioni, esperienze, emozioni che hanno un interruttore magico comune, lo scent-click il tasto-profumo che le riporta all’istante in primo piano.

L’olfatto è un senso potentissimo (e ahimè sottovalutato) ed è quello che incide con più efficacia sul nostro inconscio, determinante la vicinanza anatomica a due importanti strutture del lobo temporale del cervello: amigdala (gestione delle emozioni) e ippocampo (gestione della memoria) che elaborano l’esperienza olfattiva collegandola istantaneamente ad un ricordo e all’emozione che da esso scaturisce.

Ho sempre cercato, nel mio lungo peregrinare olfattivo, di dare valore all’arte del comporre, all’armonia della creazione, all’emozione del sentire. A volte mi sottraggo al diktat delle piramidi e insisto nello spingermi oltre le note per scovare e far brillare sensazioni che conosco mie, ho percepito e vissuto. Non sono l'immaginazione o la fantasia ad attivarsi, che valgono certo per alcune composizioni, ma il ricordo vivido di un momento personale vissuto, che mi impegno a cercare, come qualcosa di perduto nel tempo che debbo ritrovare.

Bello è stato quindi ripescare certi istanti di sincera piacevolezza in Blue Madeleine, ultima creazione di Atelier des Ors per la nuova collezione Memory Lane.

Un piccolo scrigno dove si intrecciano aromi caldi e speziati di pepe rosa e cannella, un’infusione di te nero e ginepro dai toni affumicati a sbiadire in una gradazione lattea molto amabile, perfetta citazione della soffice madeleine da inzuppare nel te pomeridiano. 

E poi lo svelamento dell’accento romantico nostalgico di rosa centifolia e pralina ad enfatizzare la delizia estendendola all’armonia ultracreamy vanigliata boisé di balsamo del Perù e legno di sandalo. 

Così il ricordo è qui, intatto, ti accarezza dolcemente e ti affida per sempre i suoi bagliori dorati.

Creata da Marie Salamagne.

Eau de Parfum 100 ml. Online qui

Della stessa collezione scopri anche Villa Primerose qui

©thebeautycove   @igbeautycove

[blogperfumes]

Mugler Alien Goddess Supra Florale Eau De Parfum

Alien Goddess Supra Florale é uma fragrância floral e frutada lançada em maio de 2023. É uma celebração da sensualidade mística feminina, combinando frescor, flores opulentas e notas picantes. Notas Olfativas: - Topo: Flor de cacto de pera espinhosa - Coração: Jasmim Sambac, Imortelle - Base: Flor do deserto, Âmbar, Almíscar Características: Desenvolvida por Marie Salamagne e Nathalie Lorson, esta fragrância promete uma experiência supra-sensorial e feminilidade elevada. Mugler lançou a Alien Goddess Supra Florale Eau de Parfum, uma fragrância floral frutada para mulheres, introduzida em maio de 2023. Este novo flanker do Alien Goddess de 2021 é uma celebração da sensualidade mística feminina, representando força e generosidade de espírito. Inspirada por três flores supra, esta fragrância oferece uma experiência olfativa rica e envolvente, capturando a essência do poder feminino. Alien Goddess Supra Florale é um flanker do Alien Goddess de 2021, que foi um flanker do Alien de 2005; segue o Alien Goddess Intense de 2022. Mugler Alien Goddess Supra Florale Eau De Parfum é um EDP floral e frutado para mulher, concebido como uma expressão da sensualidade mística feminina, de uma mulher que transmite poder e generosidade de espírito. O novo flanker de Mugler foi lançado em Maio 2023, Mugler Alien Goddess Eau De Parfum Supra Florale. Representa uma celebração da sensualidade feminina mística, incorporando força e um espírito generoso. A sua composição gira em torno de três flores supra, entrelaçando-se harmoniosamente para desvendar o futuro perfumado dos aromas florais. O perfume abre com uma explosão de notas cítricas, cortesia do acorde de flor de cacto de pera espinhosa. https://youtu.be/-z4Gei1-NLI

Mugler Alien Goddess Supra Florale

Esta introdução revigorante prepara o terreno para o aroma floral, opulento e etéreo do jasmim. A fragrância atinge o seu auge com a base da flor do deserto, misturando acordes especiados e frutados. A composição assume a forma de três flores supra que, em uníssono, transmitem o futuro perfumado da floralidade. A revelação misteriosa nas notas sensuais e exóticas traz uma promessa sagrada de feminilidade. O perfume abre-se com as notas cítricas do acorde de pera da flor de cacto de pera espinhosa, conduzindo à fragrância rica, pulverulenta e celestial da flor de jasmim. O aroma culmina na eterna fragrância frutada e picante da Flor do Deserto. Sinta o poder do absoluto da flor eterna, os seus tons âmbar realçados por um toque de musgo mineral, uma forma única e surpreendente de a fragrância atingir a sua apoteose. Uma experiência supra-sensorial que mostra a criatividade e a experiência de Mugler com três revelações radiantes: - A revelação refrescante - pungente e feroz, é a força da vida, resistente a qualquer provação. O seu símbolo é o acorde da flor de cato, que abre a fragrância com uma explosão de frescura vegetal vital e luminescente, abrilhantada por um toque sumarento de acorde de pera. - Uma revelação em flor - Este é um momento de transcendência e transformação. A icónica superinfusão de jasmim Grandiflorum é exaltada por uma nova flor híbrida: um co-destilado de jasmim sambac e flor de imortela. A opulência das flores brancas é realçada pelas notas ligeiramente salgadas da flor de imortela. - A revelação ousada - ouro líquido e incandescência floral. Sente-se o poder do absoluto de immortelle, cuja faceta mais ambarina é realçada por um toque de mousse mineral. Uma forma singular e surpreendente de assinar esta extraordinária Eau de Parfum.

Alien Goddess Supra Florale transforma o jasmim solar caraterístico do perfume original numa supra flor monumental e de outro mundo. A nova flor é o símbolo da feminilidade aumentada encarnada por Alien Goddess. O futuro das flores, infundido numa eau de parfum ousada e vanguardista. Mais do que um aroma, esta fragrância transforma-se numa experiência supra-sensorial. Deixa-o florescer. O design do frasco adornado a ouro foi inspirado na Ametista, um símbolo de meditação e tranquilidade. Representa uma celebração da sensualidade mística feminina, personificando tanto a força como um espírito generoso. Notas Olfativas de Alien Goddess Supra Florale Notas de Topo: - Acorde de flor de cacto de pera espinhosa (fresco e cítrico) Notas de Coração: - Jasmim Sambac - Imortelle (floral e celestial) Notas de Base: - Flor do deserto - Âmbar - Almíscar (frutado e picante) O Frasco de Alien Goddess Supra Florale O frasco de Alien Goddess Supra Florale é adornado com ouro, inspirado na Ametista, um símbolo de meditação e tranquilidade. O design combina elegância e misticismo, refletindo a essência da fragrância que representa uma celebração da feminilidade aumentada e encarnada por Alien Goddess. Perfumistas por Trás de Alien Goddess Supra Florale Desenvolvida pelas renomadas perfumistas Marie Salamagne e Nathalie Lorson, Alien Goddess Supra Florale inclui notas adicionais como immortelle, notas minerais, âmbar e musgo, proporcionando uma base rica e sofisticada.

Alien Goddess Supra Florale foi desenvolvido pelas perfumistas Marie Salamagne e Nathalie Lorson. As notas adicionais para o âmbar floral incluem immortelle, notas minerais, âmbar e musgo. Como usar As fragrâncias Mugler não são aplicadas da mesma forma que as outras. Devido à sua estrutura e ingredientes únicos, deixam um rasto poderoso. Por isso, a Mugler concebeu um ritual único e dedicado para proporcionar o melhor desfrute possível da essência e voluptuosidade do perfume: a "nuvem Mugler". Primeiro, vaporize uma quantidade generosa de Alien Goddess Supra Florale num círculo à sua frente para criar uma nuvem de perfume. Entre nesta auréola luminosa. O gesto da nuvem garante a aplicação da dose certa de perfume, para durar todo o dia. Mugler Alien Goddess Supra Florale estará disponível em 30, 60 e 90ml Eau de Parfum. Read the full article

[perfumestars]

In 2024, Hugo Boss introduced Alive Absolu, a captivating addition to the BOSS Alive fragrance collection that redefines femininity and strength. Crafted by the talented perfumer Marie Salamagne, this Floral Woody Musk fragrance embodies the essence of a BOSS woman who lives life with confidence and without limits.

[theshoegirldiaries]

LOTD: MAC Retro Matte Lipstick in Eternal Teddy with Too Faced Lip Injection Lip Gloss in Say My Name. #Scentoftheday Fame Intense EDP by Rabanne.

Day 7, final day of my first impressions reviews and today it's the MAC lipstick. I tried the Lustreglass version from this collection the last time I was reviewing new items. I also went on a major MAC rant, so shall refrain from that this time! This is a Retro Matte formula, which didn't drag, but didn't glide as smoothly over the lips as I'd have liked. There looks to be less red in Eternal Teddy than Ready Teddy from the side-by-side image above (and more brown in it). On the lips, it did look a reddish brown and comparing it to selfies I took when wearing the Lustreglass, the Retro Matte is just deeper and more dense looking because of the finish having less sheen and more depth. It's nice enough, but not my favourite formula in the world.

Swatches above as always, swatched several times on bare skin with no light/colour edits made.

The perfume I'm trying today is the latest in the Fame line-up, an intense version with a gold dress. There was the original (silver) Fame EDP, Blooming Pink (pink dress, but same original Fame fragrance inside), the black was Fame Parfum EDP, which was supposed to be a more intense, longer lasting version of the original and now Intense, which is...also intense?! I find so many perfumes these days are misleading with their releases, do we need 3 EDP's of the same fragrance or should it be a new stand-alone release? Often they'll say one is lighter, one heavier etc and you find little to no connection with the original scent. Also the smallest size in these (30ml, mine here is a miniature), all look the same. They look like this mini, glass with no silver/black/gold dress. How can you tell them apart? The juice varies ever so slightly, but then you'd need them all to compare, plus perfume changes colour over time.

Anyway, Fame Intense EDP by Paco Rabanne is a Floral/Woody/Musk fragrance which launched in 2024 and was created by Dora Baghriche, Alberto Morillas, Fabrice Pellegrin and Marie Salamagne. The notes are listed on Fragrantica as Jasmine, Sandalwood and Incense with no top, middle and bottom specified.

I found this very woody, a creamy sandalwood. I didn't get the incense (was expecting church pew vibe) and felt it was missing that juicy mango of the original in amongst all the woodiness. I found it very dense and strong at first, though it didn't project much (however I should note I was using a dab-on mini bottle rather than spray). I think it could be headache inducing. I just found it too heavy.

[artparfumuri]

Yves Saint Laurent - Apa de parfum

Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium - 90 ml

pentru femei

Un parfum Oriental Condimentat pentru femei .

Acesta este un parfum creat de Nathalie Lorson , Marie Salamagne , Olivier Cresp si Honorine Blanc si lansat in anul 2014 .

Intens precum un shot de cafea care creaza dependenta , electrizant precum florile sale albe , aceasta noua generatie de parfum gourmand-oriental are o directie radical diferita fata de structura parfumului clasic : inspirat de miscarea artistica a clar-obscurului , in care accentul cade pe contrastul si tensiunea dintre lumina si intuneric .

[alex-0i90j]

Cedrat De Diamante Perfume By Versace For Women

[persolaise]

Jo Malone London Orange Marmalade review - Marie Salamagne; 2021/2024

Dear Paddington -- what have you done?? My thoughts on the new Jo Malone Orange Marmalade.

— On paper, the scent sounds as though it should have be one of the company’s more likeable releases. The website blurb talks of orange peel simmering on a stove and the tantalising sweetness of sugar. The celebrity being used to promote the perfume is none other than Mr Paddington Bear himself — presumably, he’s trying to raise his profile before the release of his next film later this year.…

[angelitam]

Alien Goddess Intense de Mugler

Version intense d’Alien Goddess de Mugler. Alien Goddess Intense de Mugler Alien Goddess de Mugler se fait intense. Quant l’extraordinaire entre dans une nouvelle dimension. Alien Goddess Intense de Mugler Alien Goddess Intense Eau de Parfum porte l’optimisme et la bienveillance à des niveaux inédits grâce à son nouvel accord avec la noix de coco, la signature florale du thé au jasmin, et les…

[cleolinda]

Black Opium Extreme (Yves Saint Laurent, 2021)

A relatively quick review today, although I may do a What Is [This Note]? follow-up later:

I cannot in good conscience review the original Black Opium. The only time I tried it, I was in an Ulta getting sprayed by an enthusiastic sales associate (we actually bonded over our shared perfume fixation), and I was already covered in HYPNOTIC POISON and Angel. The one thing about Black Opium that came through was a shrill pear note that drowned out everything else, which is really saying something.

So, when I read that the Black Opium Extreme flanker (not to be confused with Intense, Neon, Illicit Green, Nuit Blanche, Floral Shock, or... Baby Cat? ) really focused on the gourmand notes, I thought, let me give this a try. I don't even like coffee, but surely, anything will be better than the Screaming Pear.

Extreme, per the YSL site: "A shot of adrenaline from extra black coffee is paired with luminous ultra-white flowers, set against a base of sweet, earthy patchouli and heady vanilla. This exhilarating amalgamation of ingredients makes for an intense and long-lasting women’s scent; crafted by Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc."

Now, according to Fragrantica, the original Black Opium has pear, pink pepper, orange blossom, coffee, jasmine, bitter almond, licorice, vanilla, patchouli, cashmeran, and cedar (obviously, I need to order a sample and retry this in earnest).

The newer Extreme variant only has coffee and cacao (specifically, as the top notes you would smell first), jasmine sambac, orange blossom, bourbon vanilla, and patchouli. It's much simpler, it's less woodsy, it's unpeared. I don't even like coffee, but I bet it smells really good with the vanilla and cacao; I'm so hype to try it.

It smells like jasmine.

That's all.

Remember how I told you that jasmine loves me? That I amp tuberose—a similar white floral—like a motherfucker? Yeah. This is 10,000% not a criticism of the perfume itself; I'm saying that my skin chemistry ate all the other notes and breathed out J A S M I N E like a flower-hoarding dragon. The orange blossom might be twined in there, but I can't actually tell it apart at this point. I was so disappointed. I wore Extreme three times; I begged it for some coffee and chocolate notes, I pleaded. After more than two hours of wear, I managed to get it to cough up a mere base of vaguely mocha vanilla (it was very nice) underneath the white floral. I have not yet been able to get anything to come out more clearly than that.

I actually did enjoy wearing it because I do like jasmine, don't get me wrong. But this perfume has six (6) notes in it, and I can only get, like, two and a half to come out. I bet it would be great layered with a coffee or chocolate fragrance; several indie companies offer single notes like that (maybe I can put on a mocha fragrance and just think about jasmine real hard). Black Opium Extreme has been, more than anything, an object lesson in the vagaries of skin chemistry for us. If white florals tend to come out really strongly for you, be warned—or, hell, this might be exactly what you want.