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La Mode, Pl. 310, 17 août 1833, Paris. Mousseline Indoue, dite rose des enfants d'Edouard; des Magasins Gagelin. Chapeau de gros de naples Princesse par Mme. Millet. Echarpe de blonde de Mme. Gleizal. Cannezou de tulle. Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library
The seated woman on the left is wearing a dress with floral print, gigot sleeves, and a white tippet. She is wearing white gloves, a black stole, and a white bonnet decorated with flowers. She is holding a handkerchief in her right hand. The seated woman on the right is facing away from the viewer. She is wearing a pink dress with gigot sleeves and a white tippet. She is wearing a black stole around her neck and a pink bonnet decorated with flowers.
#La Mode#19th century#1830s#1833#on this day#August 17#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#color#description#lapl#dress#gigot#flowers#tippet#Gagelin#Millet#Gleizal
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Night Swan and Gageline
Night Swan and Gageline We're Young Sisters in South Island of Origin World To help build and They're turning evil to conquer the West side island
And transfer island into loveness Side island to Released the love potion in the island And it was not good who should rescue them and Turned the West side island normal 'Smarty Emeraldlust' 💙
#just dance#dandy's world#Just dance 2024#Dandy's world oc#Night Swan#Gageline#Saxo Gageline#Smartanaut West Side Dancetown Island#Quartz Quadrant Experience: Delinquent Eurovision
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La Toilette de Paris, 1887 : Toilettes de Gagelin..., anonymous, 1887 (x)
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SAINTS OCTOBER 17 "There is only one tragedy in this life, not to have been a saint."- Leon Bloy
St. Ignatius of Antioch, Roman Catholic Priest and Martyr. He was among the Apostolic Fathers, was the third Bishop of Antioch, and was a student of John the Apostle. En route to Rome, where according to Christian tradition he met his martyrdom by being fed to wild beasts. Feast day is October 17th. https://www.vaticannews.va/en/saints/10/17/st--ignatius-of-antioch--bishop--martyr-in-rome.htm
Bls. Marie Magdalen Desjardin and Marie Louise Vanot, Roman Catholic Nuns and Martyrs. Ursuline martyrs of the French Revolution. She was guillotined in Valenciennes with Marie Louise Vanot. In religion, Marie Magdalen was called Marie-Augustine. Marie Louise was called Natalie. Feast day is October 17th.
Bl. Jane Louise Barre and Jane Reine Prin, Roman Catholic Nuns. Ursuline martyrs. Known in the religious life as Sisters Cordula and Laurentina respectively, the 3 were guillotined by officials of the French revolutionary government at Valenciennes and were members of the Ursuline nuns martyred during the French Revolution. Feast day is October 17th.
St. Richard Gwyn, 1584 A.D. One of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales. Also called Richard White, he was born in Montgomeryshire, Wales, in 1547, and studied at Cambridge University, England. Converted from Protestantism, he returned to Wales in 1562, married, had six children, and opened a school. Arrested in 1579, he spent four years in prison before his execution by being hanged, drawn, and quartered at Wrexham on October 15, for being a Catholic. While jailed, he composed many religious poems in Welsh. He is considered the Protomartyr of Wales and was included among the canonized martyrs of England and Wales by Pope Paul VI in 1970.
St. Francis Isidore Gagelin, Roman Catholic Priest and Vietnam Martyr. Born in Montperreux, France, in 1799, he entered the Society of Foreign Missions of Paris. He was sent to Vietnam in 1822, where he was ordained a priest. In 1833, Francis was seized by anti-Christian forces and was martyred by strangulation. Feastday Oct 17
Sts. Ethelbert and Etheired, 670 A.D. Martyred great grandsons of King Ethelbert of Kent, England (d. 616), at Eastery near Sandwich. Their shrine is at Ramsey Abbey in Huntingdonshire.
St. Nothlem, Archbishop of Canterbury. Originally a priest in London, he was named archbishop in 734 A.D. Notheim conducted research on the history of Kent which was collected by Abbot Albinus and in turn utilized by the Venerable Bede in the writing of his Ecclesiastical History.
St. Louthiem, 6th century. Irish saint, patron of St. Ludgran in Cornwall, England. Also called Luchtighem.
St. Regulus, 4th century. An Abbot of Scotland. He is best known for bringing the relics of St. Andrew to Scotland from Greece.
St. Colman of Kilroot, 6th century. Abbotbishop of Kiltrout, near Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland. He was a disciple of St. Ailbhe of Emly.
B. PETER CASANI, PIARIST
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Miss Franche-Comté 2024 est...
L’élection de Miss Franche-Comté 2024 s’est déroulée ce samedi 21 septembre 2023 à Dole. Parmi les 13 prétendantes au titre venant du Doubs, du Territoire de Belfort, de la Haute-Saône et du Jura, c’est Manon le Maou 27 ans, de Baume-les-Dames, Miss Doubs 2024, qui a remporté la couronne et l’écharpe de Miss Franche-Comté 2024, et qui participera à Miss France 2025 le samedi 14 décembre 2024 au Futuroscope et en direct sur TF1. Louison Courtois (1ère Dauphine de Miss Pays de Belfort-Montbéliard 2024) de Montbéliard est 1ère Dauphine, Agathe de Froissard est 2ème Dauphine, Anaïs Gagelin est 3ème Dauphine, Alexia Cordier est 4ème Dauphine. Read the full article
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Holidays 10.17
Holidays
Big Yellow Hat Day
Black Poetry Day
Day of Dignity (Bolivia)
Dessalines Day (Haiti)
Digital Society Day (India)
Edge Day (Straight Edge movement)
Eggplant Day (French Republic)
Feminists Day
Festival of Hengest (Asatru)
Forgive an Ex Day
Gaudy Day (a.k.a. Wear Something Gaudy Day)
Global Day Against Pain
Global Maker Day
The Great Shake Out Earthquake Preparedness Day (at 10:17 a.m.)
International Day For the Eradication of Poverty (UN)
International Donnie Day
International Sawfish Day
Kanname-Sai Harvest Festival (Japan)
Legalization Day (Canada)
Loyalty Day (Argentina)
Mulligan Day
National Ass Day
National Body Confidence Day
National Catholic Men’s Conference Day
National Edge Day (UK)
National Geographic Day
National Hicatee Day (Belize)
National Light Day
National Lighting Day
National Nursery Practitioner Day (UK)
National Opossum Day
National Playing Card Collection Day
National Police Day (a.k.a. Wan Tamruat; Thailand)
National Sweetest Day
National Teen Arrive Alice Day
National Transfer Student Day
National Vehophobia Awareness Day
Paint A Mural On A Sidewalk Day
Pay Back a Friend Day
Spreadsheet Day
Women in Military Service for American Memorial Day
Work On Your Charisma Day
World Geothermal Energy Day
World Poverty Day
World Trauma Day
Food & Drink Celebrations
Cake Decorating Day
Chivita World Juice Day (Nigeria)
Four Prunes Day
National Pasta Day
3rd Tuesday in October
Information Overload Day [3rd Tuesday]
National Flex Day [3rd Tuesday]
National Pharmacy Technician Day [3rd Tuesday]
Pay Back a Friend Day [3rd Tuesday]
textiles Tuesday (Canada) [3rd Tuesday]
Independence Days
Empire of the United States of America (Declared by Emperor Norton; 1859) [unrecognized]
Onopolissia (Declared; 2022) [unrecognized]
Stigistan (Declared; 2008; since dissolved) [unrecognized]
Feast Days
Aequinoctium Autumnale VII (Pagan)
Andrew of Crete (Christian; Saint)
Anstrudis (Christian; Saint)
Audry (a.k.a. Etheldreda), Abbess of Ely (Christian; Saint)
Bum Biting Day (Pastafarian)
Canaletto (Artology)
Catervus (Christian; Saint)
Childe Hassam (Artology)
Cristofano Allori (Artology)
Dean Martin & Jerry Lewis Day (Church of the SubGenius; Saint)
Doburoku Matsuri (Sake Festival; Shirahigetawara Shrine, Japan) [Day 1]
Ethelred and Ethelberht (Christian; Saints)
Florentius of Orange (Christian; Saint)
François-Isidore Gagelin (Christian; One of the Vietnamese Martyrs)
Hedwiges (a.k.a. Avoice), Duchess of Poland (Christian; Saint)
Hosea (Christian; Saint)
Ignatius of Antioch (Christian; Saint)
John the Short (a.k.a. John Colobus; Christian; Saint)
Locke (Positivist; Saint)
Madeline (Muppetism)
Marguerite Marie Alacoque (Visitadines; Christian; Saint)
Megan Meier Day (Australia)
Nothhelm (Christian; Saint)
Regulus (Christian; Saint)
Rule of Andrew (Christian; Saint)
Richard Gwyn (Christian; Saint)
Shemini Atzeret (begins at sundown; Judaism) [22 Tishrei]
St. Audrey’s Day Fair (Original Tawdry Fair; Isle of Ely, UK)
Victor of Capua (Christian; Saint)
World Pasta Day (Pastafarian)
Lucky & Unlucky Days
Lucky Day (Philippines) [56 of 71]
Taian (大安 Japan) [Lucky all day.]
Unfortunate Day (Pagan) [49 of 57]
Premieres
Angels in the Outfield (Film; 1951)
Around the World in 80 Days (Film; 1956)
Batman vs. Two-Face (WB Animated Film; 2017)
Before the Mayflower: A History of Black America, by Lerone Bennett Jr. (History Book; 1964)
Birdman (Film; 2014)
The Black Stallion (Film; 1979)
The Book of Life (Animated Film; 2014)
The Book of Mirdad, by Mikhail Naimy (Spiritual Book; 1948)
Bosko the Doughboy (WB LT Cartoon; 1931)
Buddy the Detective (WB LT Cartoon; 1934)
Bullitt (Film; 1968)
The Colbert Report (TV Series; 2005)
The Color of Money (Film; 1986)
Connections (UK Documentary Series; 1978)
The Crab with the Golden Claws, by Hergé (Graphic Novel; 1941) [Tintin #9]
The Devil’s Advocate (Film; 1997)
Earl and Water Don’t Mix or Next Time, Take the Drain (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 118; 1961)
Easy Peckin’s (WB LT Cartoon; 1953)
A Feast for Crows, by George R.R. Martin (Novel; 2005) [A Song of Fire and Ice #4]
Fury (Film; 2014)
Great Guns (Disney Cartoon; 1927)
Hair (Musical Play; 1967)
I Know What You Did Last Summer (Film; 1997)
I Want to Hold Your Hand, recorded by The Beatles (Song; 1963)
Jailhouse Rock (Film; 1957)
Led Zeppelin: Celebration Day (Music Documentary Film; 2012)
Loudermilk (TV Series; 2017)
The Man Who Watched Trains Go By, by Georges Simenon (Novel; 1938)
Mr. Smith Goes to Washington (Film; 1939)
The Naked Ape, by Desmond Morris (Anthropology Book; 1967)
RCA (Electronics and Communications Company; 1919)
The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, by William L. Shirer (History Book; 1960)
The River, by Bruce Springsteen (Album; 1980)
Rue Britannia, Part 1 (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 117; 1961)
’Salem’s Lot, by Stephen King (Novel; 1975)
The Seagull, by Anton Chekov (Play; 1896)
Selena, by Selena (Album; 1989)
The Sensual World, by Kate Bush (Album; 1989)
Shake Your Powder Puff (WB MM Cartoon; 1934)
Spinout (Film; 1966)
Storm Front, by Billy Joel (Album; 1989)
Street Survivors, by Lynyrd Skynyrd (Album; 1977)
Stuart Little, by E.B. White (Children’s Book; 1945)
Tarzan (Animated Film; 2013)
Through the Looking Glass (Adult Film; 1977)
Travelers (TV Series; 2016)
12x5, by The Rolling Stones (Album; 1964)
The Weirdstone of Brisingamen, by Alan Garner (Novel; 1960)
Today’s Name Days
Anselm, Ignatius, Rudolf (Austria)
Ignacije, Vatroslav (Croatia)
Hedvika (Czech Republic)
Floretinus (Denmark)
Vesta, Veste (Estonia)
Saaga, Saana, Saini (Finland)
Baudouin, Solène (France)
Adelheid, Marie-Louise, Rudolf (Germany)
Hedvig (Hungary)
Ignazio (Italy)
Gaitis, Gaits, Karīna, Karola, Vita (Latvia)
Gytė, Kintautas, Marijonas (Lithuania)
Marta, Marte (Norway)
Lucyna, Małgorzata, Marian, Sulisława, Wiktor, Wiktoriusz (Poland)
Osea (Romania)
Veronica (Russia)
Hedviga (Slovakia)
Ignacio (Spain)
Antonia, Toini (Sweden)
Brad, Braden, Bradford, Bradley, Brady, Braeden, Brayden, Braydon, Rodolfo, Rudi, Rudolf, Rudolph, Rudolphine, Rudy (USA)
Today is Also…
Day of Year: Day 290 of 2024; 75 days remaining in the year
ISO: Day 2 of week 42 of 2023
Celtic Tree Calendar: Gort (Ivy) [Day 15 of 28]
Chinese: Month 9 (Ten-Xu), Day 3 (Wu-Shen)
Chinese Year of the: Rabbit 4721 (until February 10, 2024)
Hebrew: 2 Heshvan 5784
Islamic: 2 Rabi II 1445
J Cal: 20 Shù; Sixday [20 of 30]
Julian: 4 October 2023
Moon: 9%: Waxing Crescent
Positivist: 10 Descartes (11th Month) [Locke]
Runic Half Month: Wyn (Joy) [Day 6 of 15]
Season: Autumn (Day 24 of 89)
Zodiac: Libra (Day 24 of 30)
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Holidays 10.17
Holidays
Big Yellow Hat Day
Black Poetry Day
Day of Dignity (Bolivia)
Dessalines Day (Haiti)
Digital Society Day (India)
Edge Day (Straight Edge movement)
Eggplant Day (French Republic)
Feminists Day
Festival of Hengest (Asatru)
Forgive an Ex Day
Gaudy Day (a.k.a. Wear Something Gaudy Day)
Global Day Against Pain
Global Maker Day
The Great Shake Out Earthquake Preparedness Day (at 10:17 a.m.)
International Day For the Eradication of Poverty (UN)
International Donnie Day
International Sawfish Day
Kanname-Sai Harvest Festival (Japan)
Legalization Day (Canada)
Loyalty Day (Argentina)
Mulligan Day
National Ass Day
National Body Confidence Day
National Catholic Men’s Conference Day
National Edge Day (UK)
National Geographic Day
National Hicatee Day (Belize)
National Light Day
National Lighting Day
National Nursery Practitioner Day (UK)
National Opossum Day
National Playing Card Collection Day
National Police Day (a.k.a. Wan Tamruat; Thailand)
National Sweetest Day
National Teen Arrive Alice Day
National Transfer Student Day
National Vehophobia Awareness Day
Paint A Mural On A Sidewalk Day
Pay Back a Friend Day
Spreadsheet Day
Women in Military Service for American Memorial Day
Work On Your Charisma Day
World Geothermal Energy Day
World Poverty Day
World Trauma Day
Food & Drink Celebrations
Cake Decorating Day
Chivita World Juice Day (Nigeria)
Four Prunes Day
National Pasta Day
3rd Tuesday in October
Information Overload Day [3rd Tuesday]
National Flex Day [3rd Tuesday]
National Pharmacy Technician Day [3rd Tuesday]
Pay Back a Friend Day [3rd Tuesday]
textiles Tuesday (Canada) [3rd Tuesday]
Independence Days
Empire of the United States of America (Declared by Emperor Norton; 1859) [unrecognized]
Onopolissia (Declared; 2022) [unrecognized]
Stigistan (Declared; 2008; since dissolved) [unrecognized]
Feast Days
Aequinoctium Autumnale VII (Pagan)
Andrew of Crete (Christian; Saint)
Anstrudis (Christian; Saint)
Audry (a.k.a. Etheldreda), Abbess of Ely (Christian; Saint)
Bum Biting Day (Pastafarian)
Canaletto (Artology)
Catervus (Christian; Saint)
Childe Hassam (Artology)
Cristofano Allori (Artology)
Dean Martin & Jerry Lewis Day (Church of the SubGenius; Saint)
Doburoku Matsuri (Sake Festival; Shirahigetawara Shrine, Japan) [Day 1]
Ethelred and Ethelberht (Christian; Saints)
Florentius of Orange (Christian; Saint)
François-Isidore Gagelin (Christian; One of the Vietnamese Martyrs)
Hedwiges (a.k.a. Avoice), Duchess of Poland (Christian; Saint)
Hosea (Christian; Saint)
Ignatius of Antioch (Christian; Saint)
John the Short (a.k.a. John Colobus; Christian; Saint)
Locke (Positivist; Saint)
Madeline (Muppetism)
Marguerite Marie Alacoque (Visitadines; Christian; Saint)
Megan Meier Day (Australia)
Nothhelm (Christian; Saint)
Regulus (Christian; Saint)
Rule of Andrew (Christian; Saint)
Richard Gwyn (Christian; Saint)
Shemini Atzeret (begins at sundown; Judaism) [22 Tishrei]
St. Audrey’s Day Fair (Original Tawdry Fair; Isle of Ely, UK)
Victor of Capua (Christian; Saint)
World Pasta Day (Pastafarian)
Lucky & Unlucky Days
Lucky Day (Philippines) [56 of 71]
Taian (大安 Japan) [Lucky all day.]
Unfortunate Day (Pagan) [49 of 57]
Premieres
Angels in the Outfield (Film; 1951)
Around the World in 80 Days (Film; 1956)
Batman vs. Two-Face (WB Animated Film; 2017)
Before the Mayflower: A History of Black America, by Lerone Bennett Jr. (History Book; 1964)
Birdman (Film; 2014)
The Black Stallion (Film; 1979)
The Book of Life (Animated Film; 2014)
The Book of Mirdad, by Mikhail Naimy (Spiritual Book; 1948)
Bosko the Doughboy (WB LT Cartoon; 1931)
Buddy the Detective (WB LT Cartoon; 1934)
Bullitt (Film; 1968)
The Colbert Report (TV Series; 2005)
The Color of Money (Film; 1986)
Connections (UK Documentary Series; 1978)
The Crab with the Golden Claws, by Hergé (Graphic Novel; 1941) [Tintin #9]
The Devil’s Advocate (Film; 1997)
Earl and Water Don’t Mix or Next Time, Take the Drain (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 118; 1961)
Easy Peckin’s (WB LT Cartoon; 1953)
A Feast for Crows, by George R.R. Martin (Novel; 2005) [A Song of Fire and Ice #4]
Fury (Film; 2014)
Great Guns (Disney Cartoon; 1927)
Hair (Musical Play; 1967)
I Know What You Did Last Summer (Film; 1997)
I Want to Hold Your Hand, recorded by The Beatles (Song; 1963)
Jailhouse Rock (Film; 1957)
Led Zeppelin: Celebration Day (Music Documentary Film; 2012)
Loudermilk (TV Series; 2017)
The Man Who Watched Trains Go By, by Georges Simenon (Novel; 1938)
Mr. Smith Goes to Washington (Film; 1939)
The Naked Ape, by Desmond Morris (Anthropology Book; 1967)
RCA (Electronics and Communications Company; 1919)
The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, by William L. Shirer (History Book; 1960)
The River, by Bruce Springsteen (Album; 1980)
Rue Britannia, Part 1 (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 117; 1961)
’Salem’s Lot, by Stephen King (Novel; 1975)
The Seagull, by Anton Chekov (Play; 1896)
Selena, by Selena (Album; 1989)
The Sensual World, by Kate Bush (Album; 1989)
Shake Your Powder Puff (WB MM Cartoon; 1934)
Spinout (Film; 1966)
Storm Front, by Billy Joel (Album; 1989)
Street Survivors, by Lynyrd Skynyrd (Album; 1977)
Stuart Little, by E.B. White (Children’s Book; 1945)
Tarzan (Animated Film; 2013)
Through the Looking Glass (Adult Film; 1977)
Travelers (TV Series; 2016)
12x5, by The Rolling Stones (Album; 1964)
The Weirdstone of Brisingamen, by Alan Garner (Novel; 1960)
Today’s Name Days
Anselm, Ignatius, Rudolf (Austria)
Ignacije, Vatroslav (Croatia)
Hedvika (Czech Republic)
Floretinus (Denmark)
Vesta, Veste (Estonia)
Saaga, Saana, Saini (Finland)
Baudouin, Solène (France)
Adelheid, Marie-Louise, Rudolf (Germany)
Hedvig (Hungary)
Ignazio (Italy)
Gaitis, Gaits, Karīna, Karola, Vita (Latvia)
Gytė, Kintautas, Marijonas (Lithuania)
Marta, Marte (Norway)
Lucyna, Małgorzata, Marian, Sulisława, Wiktor, Wiktoriusz (Poland)
Osea (Romania)
Veronica (Russia)
Hedviga (Slovakia)
Ignacio (Spain)
Antonia, Toini (Sweden)
Brad, Braden, Bradford, Bradley, Brady, Braeden, Brayden, Braydon, Rodolfo, Rudi, Rudolf, Rudolph, Rudolphine, Rudy (USA)
Today is Also…
Day of Year: Day 290 of 2024; 75 days remaining in the year
ISO: Day 2 of week 42 of 2023
Celtic Tree Calendar: Gort (Ivy) [Day 15 of 28]
Chinese: Month 9 (Ten-Xu), Day 3 (Wu-Shen)
Chinese Year of the: Rabbit 4721 (until February 10, 2024)
Hebrew: 2 Heshvan 5784
Islamic: 2 Rabi II 1445
J Cal: 20 Shù; Sixday [20 of 30]
Julian: 4 October 2023
Moon: 9%: Waxing Crescent
Positivist: 10 Descartes (11th Month) [Locke]
Runic Half Month: Wyn (Joy) [Day 6 of 15]
Season: Autumn (Day 24 of 89)
Zodiac: Libra (Day 24 of 30)
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1871 fashion plate showing two women inside, looking out a window. The women are shown mostly from the back.
Left: The woman wears a light purple ensemble. The bodice has a high neck, with a squared collar falling to cover her shoulders. The sleeve is fitted to the elbow. A bell-shaped oversleeve hangs from the elbow and is trimmed in black lace at the opening. There is a fitted undersleeve in darker purple that reaches the wrist. The overskirt is trimmed with black lace and is pulled up at the sides over the hips. The overskirt hangs down in a swag in the back, and is trimmed around the hem with gathers and ruffles. The underskirt is floor length and trimmed at the hem with more ruches and ruffles.
Right: The woman wears a light yellow skirt with small train, with little or no decoration visible. Over the yellow skirt, she wears a wrapper or mantle. It is cream-colored and loose, with long, unfitted sleeves to the wrist. The mantle covers the torso and ends at low hip height. It is trimmed with a very wide band of multi-colored floral embroidery at the wrists and hem, with a narrower section of embroidery at the neckline. There are multi-colored tassels at the bottom hem, sleeve opening, and two large tassels at the low point of the V-shaped back neckline.
Text at the bottom reads (in French):
La Toilette de Paris Toilettes de la Mon. Gagelin - Passementeries et Rubans de la - de la Ville de Lyon - Foulards pour robes de la Malle des Fudes - Parfumeries du Monde Elégant - Modes de la Mon Camille - Machines a coudre Elias Howe
[Approximate English translation: The toilette of Paris - Toilettes from Mr. Gagelin - Trimmings and Ribbons from the City of Lyon - Scarves for dresses from the Malle des Fudes - Perfumes from Monde Elégant - Fashions from Mr. Camille - Elias Howe Sewing Machines]
From the NY Metropolitan Museum of Art
#victorian fashion#paris fashion#1870s#1871#19th century#victorian era#bustle era#bustle#pleats#paris#women's fashion#pdxstitch costume
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Haute Couture
youtube
Haute couture is a huge part of the Paris fashion scene and no dress or garment can be claimed as haute couture unless it has been partly made in the city of Paris. in 1868 the first establishment was founded, Le Chamber Syndicale the designer earn the rights to label themselves a couture house according to all the specifications. The term haute couture was found in 1908. Haute couture means high sewing/high fashion. In the haute couture world garment maker and designer would spend up to 700 hours just creating one project, which is exclusively designed for one person which can sell for millions as it is a one of a kind garment and created specifically for one client. The haute couture is famously know for the French and Parisian culture however it was an English man named Charles Fredrick Worth, he moved to Paris in 1856 and began dress making in a fabric store called Gagelin, creating bespoke pieces for clients.
Lucien Lelong was the man who save Paris, the haute couture culture. During the war haute couture was being faced by a hostile take-over by the Nazis, Lelong was governing the body of haute couture of at the time and is credited with saving the French haute couture businesses by derailing the plans of the Germans to move haute couture to Berlin, due to his negotiations 92 fashion houses were able to remain open during the war.
www.youtube.com. (n.d.). Behind the scenes of high fashion: Paris haute couture workshops. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPl20FTlWGs. [accessed on 21st February 2023]
Harper’s BAZAAR. (2017). The History of Haute Couture. [online] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a31123/the-history-of-haute-couture/. [accessed 21st February]
McQueen, P. (2016). The Story of Haute Couture. [online] Culture Trip. Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/paris/articles/a-brief-history-of-haute-couture-in-paris/.
fashion.telegraph.co.uk. (n.d.). Lucien Lelong: the man who saved Paris - Telegraph. [online] Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG3497094/Lucien-Lelong-the-man-who-saved-Paris.html.
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THE VICTORIAN ERA
Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895)
'The father of Haute Couture' Charles Frederick Worth was born in 1825 in the market town of Borne, Lincolnshire. at the age of 11, he started working in a department store in London. in 1846 at the age of 21 Charles moved to Paris with little money in his pocket. He became a sales assistant at Gagelin-Opigez & Cie, where he sold silk fabrics, this is where he met his wife Marie Vernet which he married in 1851. Marie Vernet is considered now the first model.
thedowntownallure. (2017). MARIE_VERNET_WORTH. [Online]. thedowntownallure.wordpress.com. Last Updated: April 5 2017. Available at: https://thedowntownallure.wordpress.com/2017/04/05/fashion-show-evolution/marie_vernet_worth/ [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Granger. (2012). Charles Frederick Worth. [Online]. fineartamerica.com. Last Updated: July 2nd 2012. Available at: https://fineartamerica.com/featured/charles-frederick-worth-granger.html [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Marie Vernet and Charles Frederick Worth
Charles began sewing simple dresses, and his work caught the eyes of the stores' clients, later he got given permission to open a dress department with a business partner Otto Gustaf Bobergh. This started in 1858 and was called Worth & Bobergh.
This was their first fashion label.
Alexandra Bosc. (2022). 19TH-CENTURY COSTUMES DEPARTMENT. [Online]. Palais Galliera. Available at: https://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/collections/collections/19th-century-costumes-department [Accessed 1 January 2023].
His wife Marie Augustine Vernet played a significant role in the brand, such as selling the clothes and introducing many customers
in 1871, Worth cut off his business with Bobergh and established his own brand called 'House of Worth'. Specialising in Haute Couture, Ready to Wear, and perfume. He also hosted his first fashion show to display his work
House of Worth at 7 Rue de la Paix, Paris in 1894
Fredericks's skills in dressmaking made him the official dressmaker of Empress Eugenie, the last empress of France
This is empress Eugenie in his work
CUSTOMERS OF CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH
Elizabeth of Austria, Jenny Lind, Lillie Langtry, Sarah Bernhardt, and many more.
SOME DESIGNS OF CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH
Jessa Krick. (October 2004). Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1895) and the House of Worth. [Online]. Met Museum. Available at: https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm [Accessed 1 January 2023].
his work included a large amount of silk, and the silhouette of his work was the voluminous dresses that dominated this era, these dresses were a brand-new fashion that spread across the globe. the beautiful materials used to elevate these dresses to luxury, dresses included ruffles, striped and floral.
The Visite was a coat that was fashionable with the bustle style, it had slits to accommodate the fullness of the back of the dresses. The designs on the back were designed to emphasize the bustle. this work was finely detailed and took immense talent.
The Visite
Some of Worths included lace ruffles, intricate designs, silk satin, and gorgeous fabric. Later on in his designs, the skirts reduced in size, and around 1890 the shoulders expanded, and gigot sleeves. The sleeves became stiffer and bigger, reaching their biggest in 1895.
Jessa Krick. (October 2004). Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1895) and the House of Worth. [Online]. Met Museum. Available at: https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm [Accessed 1 January 2023].
Frederick had two sons Gaston and Jean, which in 1874 joined the business to help with management, finance, and design. this gave Charles time to enjoy his life in his later years as he struggled with a variety of health problems. Unfortunately in 1895, Charles Frederick Worth died of pneumonia at the age of 69.
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La Mode, Pl. 340, 11 janvier 1834, Paris. Coiffure orne de diamants par Sergent, boulevart des Italiens, 22. Robe de satin et Manteau bayard des Magasins Gagelin. Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library
The woman on the left is wearing a short-sleeved, pink dress with flowers decorating the skirt and bows decorating the sleeves. She is wearing elbow-length, white gloves, and is holding a fan in her left hand. She is wearing a necklace and earrings and flowers in her hair. The woman on the right is wearing a navy blue coat with fur lining over a white dress decorated with bows on the skirt. She is wearing elbow-length, white gloves and is holding a handkerchief in her left hand. She is wearing earrings and her hair is decorated with flowers.
#La Mode#19th century#1800s#1830s#1834#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#retouch#color#description#lapl#dress#coiffure#Sergent#Gagelin#mantle#coat#gigot#pink#evening#gown#cape#cloak#sleeve
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Charles Fredrick Worth didn't invent couture, but he absolutely re-invented it and made it what it is today.
Born to two textile merchants in Lincolnshire, he followed his parents into the textile business, apprenticing in London. Eventually, he re-located to Paris in 1845. There he worked at luxury textile firm Gagelin, becoming their lead salesman and eventually, a dressmaker. His designs quickly drew attention and garnered accolades. In 1858, he started his own firm, Worth and Bobergh.
On top of his unique talent for design and dressmaking, Worth came along at a good time. The French monarchy had been restored, once again placing the royal court and Empress Eugénie at the center of the French fashion world. The industrial revolution also created a new class of wealthy clientele and a new demand for luxury, hand-made goods. While Worth was very much a gifted dressmaker, perhaps his greatest talent was self-promotion.
Worth understood the value of a personal relationship between a dressmaker and his clients. One of his revolutionary ideas was while previously, a dressmaker would go to a client's home, Worth had his clients come to him, inventing the couture house. Once there, they could choose from a vast selection of fabric, consult with the designer on what they wanted, and get fitted for the perfect garment. It was an experience. House of Worth became more than just a salon, it was a social hub where the rich and glamorous could gather. Worth was also innovative in that he was the first designer to use live models rather than mannequins to showcase his creations.
Beyond that, he also courted the masses, with his designs appearing in Godey's Lady's Book and across the ocean in American publications. He courted celebrities like Jenny Lind and Sarah Bernhardt, dressing them for their appearances and performances. A LOT of later designers get credit for being the first to work with celebrities or using promotional stunts, but Worth was the one who did it all first.
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Fashion plate from La Gazette Rose,
January 1, 1876
Opera ensembles from the House of Gagelin-Opigez
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‘Les Modes Parisiennes’
Caption: ‘Etoffes des Magasins de la Tentation, Confections de la M"on Gagelin, Chapeaux des dames Noël. Dentelles Monard, Jupons à ressorts inoxidables de Huteau, Corsets de Bonvallet, Passementeries de la Ville de Lyon, Gants et Parfums de la M"on Faguer Laboullée.’
Print maker: Laurent François Guerdet after drawing by: François-Claudius Compte-Calix printer: Moine (mentioned on object)
Paris 1858
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#vintage fashion plates#french fashions#vintage fashion#victorian fashion#fashion history#rijksmuseum#ilovethis
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SAINTS OCTOBER 17
St. Ignatius of Antioch, Roman Catholic Priest and Martyr. He was among the Apostolic Fathers, was the third Bishop of Antioch, and was a student of John the Apostle. En route to Rome, where according to Christian tradition he met his martyrdom by being fed to wild beasts. Feast day is October 17th. https://www.vaticannews.va/en/saints/10/17/st--ignatius-of-antioch--bishop--martyr-in-rome.htm
Bls. Marie Magdalen Desjardin and Marie Louise Vanot, Roman Catholic Nuns and Martyrs. Ursuline martyrs of the French Revolution. She was guillotined in Valenciennes with Marie Louise Vanot. In religion, Marie Magdalen was called Marie-Augustine. Marie Louise was called Natalie. Feast day is October 17th.
Bl. Jane Louise Barre and Jane Reine Prin, Roman Catholic Nuns. Ursuline martyrs. Known in the religious life as Sisters Cordula and Laurentina respectively, the 3 were guillotined by officials of the French revolutionary government at Valenciennes and were members of the Ursuline nuns martyred during the French Revolution. Feast day is October 17th.
St. Richard Gwyn, 1584 A.D. One of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales. Also called Richard White, he was born in Montgomeryshire, Wales, in 1547, and studied at Cambridge University, England. Converted from Protestantism, he returned to Wales in 1562, married, had six children, and opened a school. Arrested in 1579, he spent four years in prison before his execution by being hanged, drawn, and quartered at Wrexham on October 15, for being a Catholic. While jailed, he composed many religious poems in Welsh. He is considered the Protomartyr of Wales and was included among the canonized martyrs of England and Wales by Pope Paul VI in 1970.
St. Francis Isidore Gagelin, Roman Catholic Priest and Vietnam Martyr. Born in Montperreux, France, in 1799, he entered the Society of Foreign Missions of Paris. He was sent to Vietnam in 1822, where he was ordained a priest. In 1833, Francis was seized by anti-Christian forces and was martyred by strangulation. Feastday Oct 17
St. Nothlem, Archbishop of Canterbury. Originally a priest in London, he was named archbishop in 734 A.D. Notheim conducted research on the history of Kent which was collected by Abbot Albinus and in turn utilized by the Venerable Bede in the writing of his Ecclesiastical History. St. Louthiem, 6th century. Irish saint, patron of St. Ludgran in Cornwall, England. Also called Luchtighem.
Sts. Ethelbert and Etheired, 670 A.D. Martyred great grandsons of King Ethelbert of Kent, England (d. 616), at Eastery near Sandwich. Their shrine is at Ramsey Abbey in Huntingdonshire.
St. Regulus, 4th century. An Abbot of Scotland. He is best known for bringing the relics of St. Andrew to Scotland from Greece.
St. Colman of Kilroot, 6th century. Abbotbishop of Kiltrout, near Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland. He was a disciple of St. Ailbhe of Emly.
B. PETER CASANI, PIARIST
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Holy Martyrs of the Paris Foreign Missions
SAINT LAURENT IMBERT
Mgr Laurent Imbert, Joseph-Marius, bishop of Capse, martyr in Korea, was born on March 23, 1796, in the farm of Bricart, in Marignane (Bouches-de-Rhône)…
SAINT JACQUES CHASTAN
CHASTAN, Jacques-Honoré (Le Ve), martyr in Korea, was born in Marcoux (Basses-Alpes) on October 7, 1803. He began his studies at Brusquet, continued in the preparatory seminary in Embrun, and finished at the seminary in Digne.
SAINT PIERRE DUMOULIN-BORIE
‘I must warn you that I will follow my vocation wherever it calls me, even to the foreign missions.’ This is what Pierre Dumoulin-Borie, born on February 20, 1808, at Beynat, in the Department of Corrèze, declared to his parents when he informed them of his intention to join Sacred Orders.
SAINT FRANÇOIS JACCARD
François Jaccard was born on September 6, 1799, at Onion, in Haute-Savoie. His parents had him, their first child, after twenty years of marriage, and saw in his birth, a “sign of the Lord”; this child would probably become a priest.
SAINT JEAN-CHARLES CORNAY
‘Allow me to go to Paris, I will stay there for at least three years and I will have all the facilities there to test my vocation, and all the means to prepare for it if it is true.’ That was how Jean-Charles Cornay, born on February 27, 1809, at Loudon (Vienne), tried to convince his mother to let him follow the Lord’s call to the Paris Foreign Missions.
SAINT JOSEPH MARCHAND
According to his colleagues, he was ‘reserved without hiding it, serious without constraint, simple and joyful without exaggeration’. His reserve, however, made him conceal a secret that he shared with only one confidant: his younger brother Jean-Baptiste who also wanted to become a priest.
SAINT FRANÇOIS-ISIDORE GAGELIN
François-Isidore Gagelin was born on May 10, 1799, at Monperreux, in Doubs. He was baptised, discreetly, by a rebel priest, on July 14. His father died when he was two years old, and his two elder sisters took care of him. At the age of five he announced his desire to become a priest.
SAINT AUGUSTIN SCHOEFFLER
‘Christians do not dethrone kings, even during times of persecution. You will learn about their loyalty when you reign one day.’
SAINT JEAN-LOUIS BONNARD
Jean-Louis Bonnard was born on March 1, 1824 and was baptised the same day in Saint-Christôt-en-Jarez church, in the Loire valley.
SAINT THÉOPHANE VENARD
Saint Therese of Lisieux’s favourite martyr, Jean-Théophane Vénard, died at the beginning of 1861, aged 31.
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