#Gagelin

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode, Pl. 310, 17 août 1833, Paris. Mousseline Indoue, dite rose des enfants d'Edouard; des Magasins Gagelin. Chapeau de gros de naples Princesse par Mme. Millet. Echarpe de blonde de Mme. Gleizal. Cannezou de tulle. Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library

The seated woman on the left is wearing a dress with floral print, gigot sleeves, and a white tippet. She is wearing white gloves, a black stole, and a white bonnet decorated with flowers. She is holding a handkerchief in her right hand. The seated woman on the right is facing away from the viewer. She is wearing a pink dress with gigot sleeves and a white tippet. She is wearing a black stole around her neck and a pink bonnet decorated with flowers.

[hopebiscuit2]

Night Swan and Gageline

Night Swan and Gageline We're Young Sisters in South Island of Origin World To help build and They're turning evil to conquer the West side island

And transfer island into loveness Side island to Released the love potion in the island And it was not good who should rescue them and Turned the West side island normal 'Smarty Emeraldlust' 💙

[vintagefashionplates]

La Toilette de Paris, 1887 : Toilettes de Gagelin..., anonymous, 1887 (x)

[silvestromedia]

SAINTS OCTOBER 17 "There is only one tragedy in this life, not to have been a saint."- Leon Bloy

St. Ignatius of Antioch, Roman Catholic Priest and Martyr. He was among the Apostolic Fathers, was the third Bishop of Antioch, and was a student of John the Apostle. En route to Rome, where according to Christian tradition he met his martyrdom by being fed to wild beasts. Feast day is October 17th. https://www.vaticannews.va/en/saints/10/17/st--ignatius-of-antioch--bishop--martyr-in-rome.htm

Bls. Marie Magdalen Desjardin and Marie Louise Vanot, Roman Catholic Nuns and Martyrs. Ursuline martyrs of the French Revolution. She was guillotined in Valenciennes with Marie Louise Vanot. In religion, Marie Magdalen was called Marie-Augustine. Marie Louise was called Natalie. Feast day is October 17th.

Bl. Jane Louise Barre and Jane Reine Prin, Roman Catholic Nuns. Ursuline martyrs. Known in the religious life as Sisters Cordula and Laurentina respectively, the 3 were guillotined by officials of the French revolutionary government at Valenciennes and were members of the Ursuline nuns martyred during the French Revolution. Feast day is October 17th.

St. Richard Gwyn, 1584 A.D. One of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales. Also called Richard White, he was born in Montgomeryshire, Wales, in 1547, and studied at Cambridge University, England. Converted from Protestantism, he returned to Wales in 1562, married, had six children, and opened a school. Arrested in 1579, he spent four years in prison before his execution by being hanged, drawn, and quartered at Wrexham on October 15, for being a Catholic. While jailed, he composed many religious poems in Welsh. He is considered the Protomartyr of Wales and was included among the canonized martyrs of England and Wales by Pope Paul VI in 1970.

St. Francis Isidore Gagelin, Roman Catholic Priest and Vietnam Martyr. Born in Montperreux, France, in 1799, he entered the Society of Foreign Missions of Paris. He was sent to Vietnam in 1822, where he was ordained a priest. In 1833, Francis was seized by anti-Christian forces and was martyred by strangulation. Feastday Oct 17

Sts. Ethelbert and Etheired, 670 A.D. Martyred great grandsons of King Ethelbert of Kent, England (d. 616), at Eastery near Sandwich. Their shrine is at Ramsey Abbey in Huntingdonshire.

St. Nothlem, Archbishop of Canterbury. Originally a priest in London, he was named archbishop in 734 A.D. Notheim conducted research on the history of Kent which was collected by Abbot Albinus and in turn utilized by the Venerable Bede in the writing of his Ecclesiastical History.

St. Louthiem, 6th century. Irish saint, patron of St. Ludgran in Cornwall, England. Also called Luchtighem.

St. Regulus, 4th century. An Abbot of Scotland. He is best known for bringing the relics of St. Andrew to Scotland from Greece.

St. Colman of Kilroot, 6th century. Abbotbishop of Kiltrout, near Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland. He was a disciple of St. Ailbhe of Emly.

B. PETER CASANI, PIARIST

[toutmontbeliard-com]

Miss Franche-Comté 2024 est...

L’élection de Miss Franche-Comté 2024 s’est déroulée ce samedi 21 septembre 2023 à Dole. Parmi les 13 prétendantes au titre venant du Doubs, du Territoire de Belfort, de la Haute-Saône et du Jura, c’est Manon le Maou 27 ans, de Baume-les-Dames, Miss Doubs 2024, qui a remporté la couronne et l’écharpe de Miss Franche-Comté 2024, et qui participera à Miss France 2025 le samedi 14 décembre 2024 au Futuroscope et en direct sur TF1. Louison Courtois (1ère Dauphine de Miss Pays de Belfort-Montbéliard 2024) de Montbéliard est 1ère Dauphine, Agathe de Froissard est 2ème Dauphine, Anaïs Gagelin est 3ème Dauphine, Alexia Cordier est 4ème Dauphine. Read the full article

[brookston]

Holidays 10.17

Holidays

Big Yellow Hat Day

Black Poetry Day

Day of Dignity (Bolivia)

Dessalines Day (Haiti)

Digital Society Day (India)

Edge Day (Straight Edge movement)

Eggplant Day (French Republic)

Feminists Day

Festival of Hengest (Asatru)

Forgive an Ex Day

Gaudy Day (a.k.a. Wear Something Gaudy Day)

Global Day Against Pain

Global Maker Day

The Great Shake Out Earthquake Preparedness Day (at 10:17 a.m.)

International Day For the Eradication of Poverty (UN)

International Donnie Day

International Sawfish Day

Kanname-Sai Harvest Festival (Japan)

Legalization Day (Canada)

Loyalty Day (Argentina)

Mulligan Day

National Ass Day

National Body Confidence Day

National Catholic Men’s Conference Day

National Edge Day (UK)

National Geographic Day

National Hicatee Day (Belize)

National Light Day

National Lighting Day

National Nursery Practitioner Day (UK)

National Opossum Day

National Playing Card Collection Day

National Police Day (a.k.a. Wan Tamruat; Thailand)

National Sweetest Day

National Teen Arrive Alice Day

National Transfer Student Day

National Vehophobia Awareness Day

Paint A Mural On A Sidewalk Day

Pay Back a Friend Day

Spreadsheet Day

Women in Military Service for American Memorial Day

Work On Your Charisma Day

World Geothermal Energy Day

World Poverty Day

World Trauma Day

Food & Drink Celebrations

Cake Decorating Day

Chivita World Juice Day (Nigeria)

Four Prunes Day

National Pasta Day

3rd Tuesday in October

Information Overload Day [3rd Tuesday]

National Flex Day [3rd Tuesday]

National Pharmacy Technician Day [3rd Tuesday]

Pay Back a Friend Day [3rd Tuesday]

textiles Tuesday (Canada) [3rd Tuesday]

Independence Days

Empire of the United States of America (Declared by Emperor Norton; 1859) [unrecognized]

Onopolissia (Declared; 2022) [unrecognized]

Stigistan (Declared; 2008; since dissolved) [unrecognized]

Feast Days

Aequinoctium Autumnale VII (Pagan)

Andrew of Crete (Christian; Saint)

Anstrudis (Christian; Saint)

Audry (a.k.a. Etheldreda), Abbess of Ely (Christian; Saint)

Bum Biting Day (Pastafarian)

Canaletto (Artology)

Catervus (Christian; Saint)

Childe Hassam (Artology)

Cristofano Allori (Artology)

Dean Martin & Jerry Lewis Day (Church of the SubGenius; Saint)

Doburoku Matsuri (Sake Festival; Shirahigetawara Shrine, Japan) [Day 1]

Ethelred and Ethelberht (Christian; Saints)

Florentius of Orange (Christian; Saint)

François-Isidore Gagelin (Christian; One of the Vietnamese Martyrs)

Hedwiges (a.k.a. Avoice), Duchess of Poland (Christian; Saint)

Hosea (Christian; Saint)

Ignatius of Antioch (Christian; Saint)

John the Short (a.k.a. John Colobus; Christian; Saint)

Locke (Positivist; Saint)

Madeline (Muppetism)

Marguerite Marie Alacoque (Visitadines; Christian; Saint)

Megan Meier Day (Australia)

Nothhelm (Christian; Saint)

Regulus (Christian; Saint)

Rule of Andrew (Christian; Saint)

Richard Gwyn (Christian; Saint)

Shemini Atzeret (begins at sundown; Judaism) [22 Tishrei]

St. Audrey’s Day Fair (Original Tawdry Fair; Isle of Ely, UK)

Victor of Capua (Christian; Saint)

World Pasta Day (Pastafarian)

Lucky & Unlucky Days

Lucky Day (Philippines) [56 of 71]

Taian (大安 Japan) [Lucky all day.]

Unfortunate Day (Pagan) [49 of 57]

Premieres

Angels in the Outfield (Film; 1951)

Around the World in 80 Days (Film; 1956)

Batman vs. Two-Face (WB Animated Film; 2017)

Before the Mayflower: A History of Black America, by Lerone Bennett Jr. (History Book; 1964)

Birdman (Film; 2014)

The Black Stallion (Film; 1979)

The Book of Life (Animated Film; 2014)

The Book of Mirdad, by Mikhail Naimy (Spiritual Book; 1948)

Bosko the Doughboy (WB LT Cartoon; 1931)

Buddy the Detective (WB LT Cartoon; 1934)

Bullitt (Film; 1968)

The Colbert Report (TV Series; 2005)

The Color of Money (Film; 1986)

Connections (UK Documentary Series; 1978)

The Crab with the Golden Claws, by Hergé (Graphic Novel; 1941) [Tintin #9]

The Devil’s Advocate (Film; 1997)

Earl and Water Don’t Mix or Next Time, Take the Drain (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 118; 1961)

Easy Peckin’s (WB LT Cartoon; 1953)

A Feast for Crows, by George R.R. Martin (Novel; 2005) [A Song of Fire and Ice #4]

Fury (Film; 2014)

Great Guns (Disney Cartoon; 1927)

Hair (Musical Play; 1967)

I Know What You Did Last Summer (Film; 1997)

I Want to Hold Your Hand, recorded by The Beatles (Song; 1963)

Jailhouse Rock (Film; 1957)

Led Zeppelin: Celebration Day (Music Documentary Film; 2012)

Loudermilk (TV Series; 2017)

The Man Who Watched Trains Go By, by Georges Simenon (Novel; 1938)

Mr. Smith Goes to Washington (Film; 1939)

The Naked Ape, by Desmond Morris (Anthropology Book; 1967)

RCA (Electronics and Communications Company; 1919)

The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, by William L. Shirer (History Book; 1960)

The River, by Bruce Springsteen (Album; 1980)

Rue Britannia, Part 1 (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 117; 1961)

’Salem’s Lot, by Stephen King (Novel; 1975)

The Seagull, by Anton Chekov (Play; 1896)

Selena, by Selena (Album; 1989)

The Sensual World, by Kate Bush (Album; 1989)

Shake Your Powder Puff (WB MM Cartoon; 1934)

Spinout (Film; 1966)

Storm Front, by Billy Joel (Album; 1989)

Street Survivors, by Lynyrd Skynyrd (Album; 1977)

Stuart Little, by E.B. White (Children’s Book; 1945)

Tarzan (Animated Film; 2013)

Through the Looking Glass (Adult Film; 1977)

Travelers (TV Series; 2016)

12x5, by The Rolling Stones (Album; 1964)

The Weirdstone of Brisingamen, by Alan Garner (Novel; 1960)

Today’s Name Days

Anselm, Ignatius, Rudolf (Austria)

Ignacije, Vatroslav (Croatia)

Hedvika (Czech Republic)

Floretinus (Denmark)

Vesta, Veste (Estonia)

Saaga, Saana, Saini (Finland)

Baudouin, Solène (France)

Adelheid, Marie-Louise, Rudolf (Germany)

Hedvig (Hungary)

Ignazio (Italy)

Gaitis, Gaits, Karīna, Karola, Vita (Latvia)

Gytė, Kintautas, Marijonas (Lithuania)

Marta, Marte (Norway)

Lucyna, Małgorzata, Marian, Sulisława, Wiktor, Wiktoriusz (Poland)

Osea (Romania)

Veronica (Russia)

Hedviga (Slovakia)

Ignacio (Spain)

Antonia, Toini (Sweden)

Brad, Braden, Bradford, Bradley, Brady, Braeden, Brayden, Braydon, Rodolfo, Rudi, Rudolf, Rudolph, Rudolphine, Rudy (USA)

Today is Also…

Day of Year: Day 290 of 2024; 75 days remaining in the year

ISO: Day 2 of week 42 of 2023

Celtic Tree Calendar: Gort (Ivy) [Day 15 of 28]

Chinese: Month 9 (Ten-Xu), Day 3 (Wu-Shen)

Chinese Year of the: Rabbit 4721 (until February 10, 2024)

Hebrew: 2 Heshvan 5784

Islamic: 2 Rabi II 1445

J Cal: 20 Shù; Sixday [20 of 30]

Julian: 4 October 2023

Moon: 9%: Waxing Crescent

Positivist: 10 Descartes (11th Month) [Locke]

Runic Half Month: Wyn (Joy) [Day 6 of 15]

Season: Autumn (Day 24 of 89)

Zodiac: Libra (Day 24 of 30)

[brookstonalmanac]

Holidays 10.17

Holidays

Big Yellow Hat Day

Black Poetry Day

Day of Dignity (Bolivia)

Dessalines Day (Haiti)

Digital Society Day (India)

Edge Day (Straight Edge movement)

Eggplant Day (French Republic)

Feminists Day

Festival of Hengest (Asatru)

Forgive an Ex Day

Gaudy Day (a.k.a. Wear Something Gaudy Day)

Global Day Against Pain

Global Maker Day

The Great Shake Out Earthquake Preparedness Day (at 10:17 a.m.)

International Day For the Eradication of Poverty (UN)

International Donnie Day

International Sawfish Day

Kanname-Sai Harvest Festival (Japan)

Legalization Day (Canada)

Loyalty Day (Argentina)

Mulligan Day

National Ass Day

National Body Confidence Day

National Catholic Men’s Conference Day

National Edge Day (UK)

National Geographic Day

National Hicatee Day (Belize)

National Light Day

National Lighting Day

National Nursery Practitioner Day (UK)

National Opossum Day

National Playing Card Collection Day

National Police Day (a.k.a. Wan Tamruat; Thailand)

National Sweetest Day

National Teen Arrive Alice Day

National Transfer Student Day

National Vehophobia Awareness Day

Paint A Mural On A Sidewalk Day

Pay Back a Friend Day

Spreadsheet Day

Women in Military Service for American Memorial Day

Work On Your Charisma Day

World Geothermal Energy Day

World Poverty Day

World Trauma Day

Food & Drink Celebrations

Cake Decorating Day

Chivita World Juice Day (Nigeria)

Four Prunes Day

National Pasta Day

3rd Tuesday in October

Information Overload Day [3rd Tuesday]

National Flex Day [3rd Tuesday]

National Pharmacy Technician Day [3rd Tuesday]

Pay Back a Friend Day [3rd Tuesday]

textiles Tuesday (Canada) [3rd Tuesday]

Independence Days

Empire of the United States of America (Declared by Emperor Norton; 1859) [unrecognized]

Onopolissia (Declared; 2022) [unrecognized]

Stigistan (Declared; 2008; since dissolved) [unrecognized]

Feast Days

Aequinoctium Autumnale VII (Pagan)

Andrew of Crete (Christian; Saint)

Anstrudis (Christian; Saint)

Audry (a.k.a. Etheldreda), Abbess of Ely (Christian; Saint)

Bum Biting Day (Pastafarian)

Canaletto (Artology)

Catervus (Christian; Saint)

Childe Hassam (Artology)

Cristofano Allori (Artology)

Dean Martin & Jerry Lewis Day (Church of the SubGenius; Saint)

Doburoku Matsuri (Sake Festival; Shirahigetawara Shrine, Japan) [Day 1]

Ethelred and Ethelberht (Christian; Saints)

Florentius of Orange (Christian; Saint)

François-Isidore Gagelin (Christian; One of the Vietnamese Martyrs)

Hedwiges (a.k.a. Avoice), Duchess of Poland (Christian; Saint)

Hosea (Christian; Saint)

Ignatius of Antioch (Christian; Saint)

John the Short (a.k.a. John Colobus; Christian; Saint)

Locke (Positivist; Saint)

Madeline (Muppetism)

Marguerite Marie Alacoque (Visitadines; Christian; Saint)

Megan Meier Day (Australia)

Nothhelm (Christian; Saint)

Regulus (Christian; Saint)

Rule of Andrew (Christian; Saint)

Richard Gwyn (Christian; Saint)

Shemini Atzeret (begins at sundown; Judaism) [22 Tishrei]

St. Audrey’s Day Fair (Original Tawdry Fair; Isle of Ely, UK)

Victor of Capua (Christian; Saint)

World Pasta Day (Pastafarian)

Lucky & Unlucky Days

Lucky Day (Philippines) [56 of 71]

Taian (大安 Japan) [Lucky all day.]

Unfortunate Day (Pagan) [49 of 57]

Premieres

Angels in the Outfield (Film; 1951)

Around the World in 80 Days (Film; 1956)

Batman vs. Two-Face (WB Animated Film; 2017)

Before the Mayflower: A History of Black America, by Lerone Bennett Jr. (History Book; 1964)

Birdman (Film; 2014)

The Black Stallion (Film; 1979)

The Book of Life (Animated Film; 2014)

The Book of Mirdad, by Mikhail Naimy (Spiritual Book; 1948)

Bosko the Doughboy (WB LT Cartoon; 1931)

Buddy the Detective (WB LT Cartoon; 1934)

Bullitt (Film; 1968)

The Colbert Report (TV Series; 2005)

The Color of Money (Film; 1986)

Connections (UK Documentary Series; 1978)

The Crab with the Golden Claws, by Hergé (Graphic Novel; 1941) [Tintin #9]

The Devil’s Advocate (Film; 1997)

Earl and Water Don’t Mix or Next Time, Take the Drain (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 118; 1961)

Easy Peckin’s (WB LT Cartoon; 1953)

A Feast for Crows, by George R.R. Martin (Novel; 2005) [A Song of Fire and Ice #4]

Fury (Film; 2014)

Great Guns (Disney Cartoon; 1927)

Hair (Musical Play; 1967)

I Know What You Did Last Summer (Film; 1997)

I Want to Hold Your Hand, recorded by The Beatles (Song; 1963)

Jailhouse Rock (Film; 1957)

Led Zeppelin: Celebration Day (Music Documentary Film; 2012)

Loudermilk (TV Series; 2017)

The Man Who Watched Trains Go By, by Georges Simenon (Novel; 1938)

Mr. Smith Goes to Washington (Film; 1939)

The Naked Ape, by Desmond Morris (Anthropology Book; 1967)

RCA (Electronics and Communications Company; 1919)

The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, by William L. Shirer (History Book; 1960)

The River, by Bruce Springsteen (Album; 1980)

Rue Britannia, Part 1 (Rocky & Bullwinkle Cartoon, S3, Ep. 117; 1961)

’Salem’s Lot, by Stephen King (Novel; 1975)

The Seagull, by Anton Chekov (Play; 1896)

Selena, by Selena (Album; 1989)

The Sensual World, by Kate Bush (Album; 1989)

Shake Your Powder Puff (WB MM Cartoon; 1934)

Spinout (Film; 1966)

Storm Front, by Billy Joel (Album; 1989)

Street Survivors, by Lynyrd Skynyrd (Album; 1977)

Stuart Little, by E.B. White (Children’s Book; 1945)

Tarzan (Animated Film; 2013)

Through the Looking Glass (Adult Film; 1977)

Travelers (TV Series; 2016)

12x5, by The Rolling Stones (Album; 1964)

The Weirdstone of Brisingamen, by Alan Garner (Novel; 1960)

Today’s Name Days

Anselm, Ignatius, Rudolf (Austria)

Ignacije, Vatroslav (Croatia)

Hedvika (Czech Republic)

Floretinus (Denmark)

Vesta, Veste (Estonia)

Saaga, Saana, Saini (Finland)

Baudouin, Solène (France)

Adelheid, Marie-Louise, Rudolf (Germany)

Hedvig (Hungary)

Ignazio (Italy)

Gaitis, Gaits, Karīna, Karola, Vita (Latvia)

Gytė, Kintautas, Marijonas (Lithuania)

Marta, Marte (Norway)

Lucyna, Małgorzata, Marian, Sulisława, Wiktor, Wiktoriusz (Poland)

Osea (Romania)

Veronica (Russia)

Hedviga (Slovakia)

Ignacio (Spain)

Antonia, Toini (Sweden)

Brad, Braden, Bradford, Bradley, Brady, Braeden, Brayden, Braydon, Rodolfo, Rudi, Rudolf, Rudolph, Rudolphine, Rudy (USA)

Today is Also…

Day of Year: Day 290 of 2024; 75 days remaining in the year

ISO: Day 2 of week 42 of 2023

Celtic Tree Calendar: Gort (Ivy) [Day 15 of 28]

Chinese: Month 9 (Ten-Xu), Day 3 (Wu-Shen)

Chinese Year of the: Rabbit 4721 (until February 10, 2024)

Hebrew: 2 Heshvan 5784

Islamic: 2 Rabi II 1445

J Cal: 20 Shù; Sixday [20 of 30]

Julian: 4 October 2023

Moon: 9%: Waxing Crescent

Positivist: 10 Descartes (11th Month) [Locke]

Runic Half Month: Wyn (Joy) [Day 6 of 15]

Season: Autumn (Day 24 of 89)

Zodiac: Libra (Day 24 of 30)

[pdxstitch]

1871 fashion plate showing two women inside, looking out a window. The women are shown mostly from the back.

Left: The woman wears a light purple ensemble. The bodice has a high neck, with a squared collar falling to cover her shoulders. The sleeve is fitted to the elbow. A bell-shaped oversleeve hangs from the elbow and is trimmed in black lace at the opening. There is a fitted undersleeve in darker purple that reaches the wrist. The overskirt is trimmed with black lace and is pulled up at the sides over the hips. The overskirt hangs down in a swag in the back, and is trimmed around the hem with gathers and ruffles. The underskirt is floor length and trimmed at the hem with more ruches and ruffles.

Right: The woman wears a light yellow skirt with small train, with little or no decoration visible. Over the yellow skirt, she wears a wrapper or mantle. It is cream-colored and loose, with long, unfitted sleeves to the wrist. The mantle covers the torso and ends at low hip height. It is trimmed with a very wide band of multi-colored floral embroidery at the wrists and hem, with a narrower section of embroidery at the neckline. There are multi-colored tassels at the bottom hem, sleeve opening, and two large tassels at the low point of the V-shaped back neckline.

Text at the bottom reads (in French):

La Toilette de Paris Toilettes de la Mon. Gagelin - Passementeries et Rubans de la - de la Ville de Lyon - Foulards pour robes de la Malle des Fudes - Parfumeries du Monde Elégant - Modes de la Mon Camille - Machines a coudre Elias Howe

[Approximate English translation: The toilette of Paris - Toilettes from Mr. Gagelin - Trimmings and Ribbons from the City of Lyon - Scarves for dresses from the Malle des Fudes - Perfumes from Monde Elégant - Fashions from Mr. Camille - Elias Howe Sewing Machines]

From the NY Metropolitan Museum of Art

[ebonyrosefashionfmp]

Haute Couture

Haute couture is a huge part of the Paris fashion scene and no dress or garment can be claimed as haute couture unless it has been partly made in the city of Paris. in 1868 the first establishment was founded, Le Chamber Syndicale the designer earn the rights to label themselves a couture house according to all the specifications. The term haute couture was found in 1908. Haute couture means high sewing/high fashion. In the haute couture world garment maker and designer would spend up to 700 hours just creating one project, which is exclusively designed for one person which can sell for millions as it is a one of a kind garment and created specifically for one client. The haute couture is famously know for the French and Parisian culture however it was an English man named Charles Fredrick Worth, he moved to Paris in 1856 and began dress making in a fabric store called Gagelin, creating bespoke pieces for clients.

Lucien Lelong was the man who save Paris, the haute couture culture. During the war haute couture was being faced by a hostile take-over by the Nazis, Lelong was governing the body of haute couture of at the time and is credited with saving the French haute couture businesses by derailing the plans of the Germans to move haute couture to Berlin, due to his negotiations 92 fashion houses were able to remain open during the war.

www.youtube.com. (n.d.). Behind the scenes of high fashion: Paris haute couture workshops. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPl20FTlWGs. [accessed on 21st February 2023]

Harper’s BAZAAR. (2017). The History of Haute Couture. [online] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a31123/the-history-of-haute-couture/. [accessed 21st February]

McQueen, P. (2016). The Story of Haute Couture. [online] Culture Trip. Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/paris/articles/a-brief-history-of-haute-couture-in-paris/.

‌fashion.telegraph.co.uk. (n.d.). Lucien Lelong: the man who saved Paris - Telegraph. [online] Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG3497094/Lucien-Lelong-the-man-who-saved-Paris.html.

[omgthatdress]

Charles Fredrick Worth didn't invent couture, but he absolutely re-invented it and made it what it is today.

Born to two textile merchants in Lincolnshire, he followed his parents into the textile business, apprenticing in London. Eventually, he re-located to Paris in 1845. There he worked at luxury textile firm Gagelin, becoming their lead salesman and eventually, a dressmaker. His designs quickly drew attention and garnered accolades. In 1858, he started his own firm, Worth and Bobergh.

On top of his unique talent for design and dressmaking, Worth came along at a good time. The French monarchy had been restored, once again placing the royal court and Empress Eugénie at the center of the French fashion world. The industrial revolution also created a new class of wealthy clientele and a new demand for luxury, hand-made goods. While Worth was very much a gifted dressmaker, perhaps his greatest talent was self-promotion.

Worth understood the value of a personal relationship between a dressmaker and his clients. One of his revolutionary ideas was while previously, a dressmaker would go to a client's home, Worth had his clients come to him, inventing the couture house. Once there, they could choose from a vast selection of fabric, consult with the designer on what they wanted, and get fitted for the perfect garment. It was an experience. House of Worth became more than just a salon, it was a social hub where the rich and glamorous could gather. Worth was also innovative in that he was the first designer to use live models rather than mannequins to showcase his creations.

Beyond that, he also courted the masses, with his designs appearing in Godey's Lady's Book and across the ocean in American publications. He courted celebrities like Jenny Lind and Sarah Bernhardt, dressing them for their appearances and performances. A LOT of later designers get credit for being the first to work with celebrities or using promotional stunts, but Worth was the one who did it all first.

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode, Pl. 260, 20 octobre 1832, Paris. Coiffure ornée de rubans en fil d'écosse. Robe de mousseline brodée des Magasins de Me. Gagelin. Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library

The seated woman on the right is wearing a white dress with floral print, gigot sleeves, and a white tippet. She is wearing earrings, gloves, and bows in her hair. She is holding a book in her hands. The young girl on the left is wearing a dress with a white bodice, white gigot sleeves, a blue skirt, and white pantalettes. She is wearing a cap.

[hoopskirtsociety]

Fashion plate from La Gazette Rose,

January 1, 1876

Opera ensembles from the House of Gagelin-Opigez

[propaganda-fide]

Holy Martyrs of the Paris Foreign Missions

SAINT LAURENT IMBERT

Mgr Laurent Imbert, Joseph-Marius, bishop of Capse, martyr in Korea, was born on March 23, 1796, in the farm of Bricart, in Marignane (Bouches-de-Rhône)…

SAINT JACQUES CHASTAN

CHASTAN, Jacques-Honoré (Le Ve), martyr in Korea, was born in Marcoux (Basses-Alpes) on October 7, 1803. He began his studies at Brusquet, continued in the preparatory seminary in Embrun, and finished at the seminary in Digne.

SAINT PIERRE DUMOULIN-BORIE

‘I must warn you that I will follow my vocation wherever it calls me, even to the foreign missions.’ This is what Pierre Dumoulin-Borie, born on February 20, 1808, at Beynat, in the Department of Corrèze, declared to his parents when he informed them of his intention to join Sacred Orders.

SAINT FRANÇOIS JACCARD

François Jaccard was born on September 6, 1799, at Onion, in Haute-Savoie. His parents had him, their first child, after twenty years of marriage, and saw in his birth, a “sign of the Lord”; this child would probably become a priest.

SAINT JEAN-CHARLES CORNAY

‘Allow me to go to Paris, I will stay there for at least three years and I will have all the facilities there to test my vocation, and all the means to prepare for it if it is true.’ That was how Jean-Charles Cornay, born on February 27, 1809, at Loudon (Vienne), tried to convince his mother to let him follow the Lord’s call to the Paris Foreign Missions.

SAINT JOSEPH MARCHAND

According to his colleagues, he was ‘reserved without hiding it, serious without constraint, simple and joyful without exaggeration’. His reserve, however, made him conceal a secret that he shared with only one confidant: his younger brother Jean-Baptiste who also wanted to become a priest.

SAINT FRANÇOIS-ISIDORE GAGELIN

François-Isidore Gagelin was born on May 10, 1799, at Monperreux, in Doubs. He was baptised, discreetly, by a rebel priest, on July 14. His father died when he was two years old, and his two elder sisters took care of him. At the age of five he announced his desire to become a priest.

SAINT AUGUSTIN SCHOEFFLER

‘Christians do not dethrone kings, even during times of persecution. You will learn about their loyalty when you reign one day.’

SAINT JEAN-LOUIS BONNARD

Jean-Louis Bonnard was born on March 1, 1824 and was baptised the same day in Saint-Christôt-en-Jarez church, in the Loire valley.

SAINT THÉOPHANE VENARD

Saint Therese of Lisieux’s favourite martyr, Jean-Théophane Vénard, died at the beginning of 1861, aged 31.

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‘Les Modes Parisiennes’

Caption: ‘Etoffes des Magasins de la Tentation, Confections de la M"on Gagelin, Chapeaux des dames Noël. Dentelles Monard, Jupons à ressorts inoxidables de Huteau, Corsets de Bonvallet, Passementeries de la Ville de Lyon, Gants et Parfums de la M"on Faguer Laboullée.’

Print maker: Laurent François Guerdet after drawing by: François-Claudius Compte-Calix printer: Moine (mentioned on object)

Paris 1858

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SAINTS OCTOBER 17

St. Ignatius of Antioch, Roman Catholic Priest and Martyr. He was among the Apostolic Fathers, was the third Bishop of Antioch, and was a student of John the Apostle. En route to Rome, where according to Christian tradition he met his martyrdom by being fed to wild beasts. Feast day is October 17th. https://www.vaticannews.va/en/saints/10/17/st--ignatius-of-antioch--bishop--martyr-in-rome.htm

Bls. Marie Magdalen Desjardin and Marie Louise Vanot, Roman Catholic Nuns and Martyrs. Ursuline martyrs of the French Revolution. She was guillotined in Valenciennes with Marie Louise Vanot. In religion, Marie Magdalen was called Marie-Augustine. Marie Louise was called Natalie. Feast day is October 17th.

Bl. Jane Louise Barre and Jane Reine Prin, Roman Catholic Nuns. Ursuline martyrs. Known in the religious life as Sisters Cordula and Laurentina respectively, the 3 were guillotined by officials of the French revolutionary government at Valenciennes and were members of the Ursuline nuns martyred during the French Revolution. Feast day is October 17th.

St. Richard Gwyn, 1584 A.D. One of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales. Also called Richard White, he was born in Montgomeryshire, Wales, in 1547, and studied at Cambridge University, England. Converted from Protestantism, he returned to Wales in 1562, married, had six children, and opened a school. Arrested in 1579, he spent four years in prison before his execution by being hanged, drawn, and quartered at Wrexham on October 15, for being a Catholic. While jailed, he composed many religious poems in Welsh. He is considered the Protomartyr of Wales and was included among the canonized martyrs of England and Wales by Pope Paul VI in 1970.

St. Francis Isidore Gagelin, Roman Catholic Priest and Vietnam Martyr. Born in Montperreux, France, in 1799, he entered the Society of Foreign Missions of Paris. He was sent to Vietnam in 1822, where he was ordained a priest. In 1833, Francis was seized by anti-Christian forces and was martyred by strangulation. Feastday Oct 17

St. Nothlem, Archbishop of Canterbury. Originally a priest in London, he was named archbishop in 734 A.D. Notheim conducted research on the history of Kent which was collected by Abbot Albinus and in turn utilized by the Venerable Bede in the writing of his Ecclesiastical History. St. Louthiem, 6th century. Irish saint, patron of St. Ludgran in Cornwall, England. Also called Luchtighem.

Sts. Ethelbert and Etheired, 670 A.D. Martyred great grandsons of King Ethelbert of Kent, England (d. 616), at Eastery near Sandwich. Their shrine is at Ramsey Abbey in Huntingdonshire.

St. Regulus, 4th century. An Abbot of Scotland. He is best known for bringing the relics of St. Andrew to Scotland from Greece.

St. Colman of Kilroot, 6th century. Abbotbishop of Kiltrout, near Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland. He was a disciple of St. Ailbhe of Emly.

B. PETER CASANI, PIARIST

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Today the Church remembers the Vietnamese Martyrs (Vietnamese: Các Thánh Tử đạo Việt Nam), also known as the Martyrs of Annam, Martyrs of Tonkin and Cochinchina, Martyrs of Indochina, or Andrew Dung-Lac and Companions (Anrê Dũng-Lạc và các bạn tử đạo).

Orate pro nobis.

The Martyrs of Vietnam

The Vatican estimates the number of Vietnamese martyrs at between 130,000 and 300,000. The Vietnamese Martyrs fall into several groupings, those of the Dominican and Jesuit missionary era of the 18th century and those killed in the politically inspired persecutions of the 19th century. A representative sample of only 117 martyrs—including 96 Vietnamese, 11 Spanish Dominicans, and 10 French members of the Paris Foreign Missions Society (Missions Etrangères de Paris)—were beatified on four separate occasions: 64 by Pope Leo XIII on May 27, 1900; eight by Pope Pius X on May 20, 1906; 20 by Pope Pius X on May 2, 1909; and 25 by Pope Pius XII on April 29, 1951. All these 117 Vietnamese Martyrs were canonized on June 19, 1988. A young Vietnamese Martyr, Andrew Phú Yên, was beatified in March, 2000 by Pope John Paul II.

Vietnamese martyrs Paul Mi, Pierre Duong, Pierre Truat, martyred on 18 December 1838.

The tortures these individuals underwent are considered by the Vatican to be among the worst in the history of Christian martyrdom. The torturers hacked off limbs joint by joint, tore flesh with red hot tongs, and used drugs to enslave the minds of the victims. Christians at the time were branded on the face with the words "tả đạo" (左道, lit. "Left (Sinister) religion") and families and villages which subscribed to Christianity were obliterated.

The letters and example of Théophane Vénard inspired the young Saint Thérèse of Lisieux to volunteer for the Carmelite nunnery at Hanoi, though she ultimately contracted tuberculosis and could not go. In 1865 Vénard's body was transferred to his Congregation's church in Paris, but his head remains in Vietnam.

The Church in Vietnam was devastated during the Tây Sơn rebellion in the late 18th century. During the turmoil, the missions revived, however, as a result of cooperation between the French Vicar Apostolic Pigneaux de Behaine and Nguyen Anh. After Nguyen's victory in 1802, in gratitude to assistance received, he ensured protection to missionary activities. However, only a few years into the new emperor's reign, there was growing antipathy among officials against Christianity and missionaries reported that it was purely for political reasons that their presence was tolerated. Tolerance continued until the death of the emperor and the new emperor Minh Mang succeeding to the throne in 1820.

Converts began to be harassed without official edicts in the late 1820s, by local governments. In 1831 the emperor passed new laws on regulations for religious groupings in Viet Nam, and Christianity was then officially prohibited. In 1832, the first act occurred in a largely Christian village near Hue, with the entire community being incarcerated and sent into exile in Cambodia. In January 1833 a new kingdom-wide edict was passed calling on Vietnamese subjects to reject the religion of Jesus and required suspected Christians to demonstrate their renunciation by walking on a wooden cross. Actual violence against Catholics, however, did not occur until the Lê Văn Khôi revolt.

During the rebellion, a young French missionary priest named Joseph Marchand was living in sickness in the rebel Gia Dinh citadel. In October 1833, an officer of the emperor reported to the court that a foreign Christian religious leader was present in the citadel. This news was used to justify the edicts against Christianity, and led to the first executions of missionaries in over 40 years. The first executed was named Francois Gagelin. Marchand was captured and executed as a "rebel leader" in 1835; he was put to death by "slicing". Further repressive measures were introduced in the wake of this episode in 1836. Prior to 1836, village heads had only to simply report to local mandarins about how their subjects had recanted Christianity; after 1836, officials could visit villages and force all the villagers to line up one by one to trample on a cross and if a community was suspected of harbouring a missionary, militia could block off the village gates and perform a rigorous search; if a missionary was found, collective punishment could be meted out to the entire community.

Missionaries and Christian communities were able to sometimes escape this through bribery of officials; they were also sometimes victims of extortion attempts by people who demanded money under the threat that they would report the villages and missionaries to the authorities.

The court became more aware of the problem of the failure to enforce the laws and applied greater pressure on its officials to act; officials that failed to act or those tho who were seen to be acting too slowly were demoted or removed from office (and sometimes were given severe corporal punishment), while those who attacked and killed the Christians could receive promotion or other rewards. Lower officials or younger family members of officials were sometimes tasked with secretly going through villages to report on hidden missionaries or Christians that had not apostasized.

The first missionary arrested during this (and later executed) was the priest Jean-Charles Cornay in 1837. A military campaign was conducted in Nam Dinh after letters were discovered in a shipwrecked vessel bound for Macao. Quang Tri and Quang Binh officials captured several priests along with the French missionary Bishop Pierre Dumoulin-Borie in 1838 (who was executed). The court translator, Francois Jaccard, a Christian who had been kept as a prisoner for years and was extremely valuable to the court, was executed in late 1838; the official who was tasked with this execution, however, was almost immediately dismissed.

A priest, Father Ignatius Delgado, was captured in the village of Can Lao (Nam Định Province), put in a cage on public display for ridicule and abuse, and died of hunger and exposure while waiting for execution; the officer and soldiers that captured him were greatly rewarded (about 3 kg of silver was distributed out to all of them), as were the villagers that had helped to turn him over to the authorities. The bishop Dominic Henares was found in Giao Thuy district of Nam Dinh (later executed); the villagers and soldiers that participated in his arrest were also greatly rewarded (about 3 kg of silver distributed). The priest, Father Joseph Fernandez, and a local priest, Nguyen Ba Tuan, were captured in Kim Song, Nam Dinh; the provincial officials were promoted, the peasants who turned them over were given about 3 kg of silver and other rewards were distributed. In July 1838, a demoted governor attempting to win back his place did so successfully by capturing the priest Father Dang Dinh Vien in Yen Dung, Bac Ninh province. (Vien was executed). In 1839, the same official captured two more priests: Father Dinh Viet Du and Father Nguyen Van Xuyen (also both executed).

In Nhu Ly near Hue, an elderly catholic doctor named Simon Hoa was captured and executed. He had been sheltering a missionary named Charles Delamotte, whom the villagers had pleaded with him to send away. The village was also supposed to erect a shrine for the state-cult, which the doctor also opposed. His status and age protected him from being arrested until 1840, when he was put on trial and the judge pleaded (due to his status in Vietnamese society as both an elder and a doctor) with him to publicly recant; when he refused he was publicly executed.

Many officials preferred to avoid execution because of the threat to social order and harmony it represented, and resorted to use of threats or torture in order to force Christians to recant. Many villagers were executed alongside priests according to mission reports. The emperor died in 1841, and this offered respite for Christians. However, some persecution still continued after the new emperor took office. Christian villages were forced to build shrines to the state cult. The missionary Father Pierre Duclos (quoted above) died in prison in after being captured on the Saigon river in June 1846. The boat he was traveling in, unfortunately contained the money that was set for the annual bribes of various officials (up to 1/3 of the annual donated French mission budget for Cochinchina was officially allocated to 'special needs') in order to prevent more arrests and persecutions of the converts; therefore, after his arrest, the officials then began wide searches and cracked down on the Christian communities in their jurisdictions. The amount of money that the French mission societies were able to raise, made the missionaries a lucrative target for officials that wanted cash, which could even surpass what the imperial court was offering in rewards. This created a cycle of extortion and bribery which lasted for years.

Saint Vincent Liem Le Duang.

He was born into the Christian community of Thong-Dong in 1731. From a young age he showed great devotion and ability. He was sent to the Philippines at the age of fifteen and took the habit in 1753. After completing his studies at the University of St. Thomas, he was ordained priest and returned to his native land. As he could speak Vietnamese he started his apostolate immediately. He spent the next fourteen years ministering to Christian communities, teaching at the seminary of Trung-Linh and preaching in the non-Christian areas.

From 1767 the Church in Vietnam came under attack from the authorities. Vincent nevertheless continued to proclaim the Gospel openly, regardless of the obstacles and threats. He was captured in 1773, beaten and imprisoned. He was placed in a cage and displayed like a wild animal. However the local Mandarin believed that this ritual humiliation would not help the authorities’ attempt to crush the Christian religion. Vincent was released from his cage and allowed to walk about the prison. He took advantage of his relative liberty and preached the Gospel to his fellow prisoners and all who would come to listen. This status was short lived and he was put back in his cage and taken to Hanoi and the Imperial Court.

At the Court the Emperor arranged a disputation between Vincent, a Buddhist, a Confucian and a Taoist. His reasoning, clarity and elegance, in defending the true faith, left a deep impressio, so much so that an Imperial Prince declared the superiority of Christianity. However Vincent’s fate was decided after a stormy dialogue with the Queen Mother. He was sentenced to death and was beheaded on the 7th of November 1773.

The persecutions of the Vietnamese Church continue. In 1975, the exodus of Vietnamese friars would result in the formation of a new vicariate outside their motherland: the Vicariate of St Vincent Liem. Every day, the brothers of the vicariate, pray for the conversion of Vietnam, through the intercession of St. Vincent.

Those whose names are known are listed below:

(Please keep in mind that for Vietnamese martyrs these are the anglicized versions of their names)

* Andrew Dung-Lac An Tran

* Augustin Schoeffler, MEP, a priest from France

* Agnes Le Thi Thanh

* Bernard Vũ Văn Duệ

* Dominic Mậu

* Emmanuel Le Van Phung

* Emmanuel Trieu Van Nguyen

* Francis Chieu Van Do

* Francis Gil de Frederich|Francesc (Francis) Gil de Federich, OP, a priest from Catalonia (Spain)

* François-Isidore Gagelin, MEP, a priest from France

* Francis Jaccard, MEP, a priest from France

* Francis Trung Von Tran

* Francis Nguyen

* Ignatius Delgado y Cebrian, OP, a bishop from Spain

* Jacinto (Hyacinth) Casteñeda, OP, a priest from Spain

* James Nam

* Jerome Hermosilla, OP, a bishop from Spain

* John Baptist Con

* John Charles Cornay, MEP, a priest from France

* John Dat

* John Hoan Trinh Doan

* John Louis Bonnard, MEP, a priest from France

* John Thanh Van Dinh

* José María Díaz Sanjurjo, OP, a bishop from Spain

* Joseph Canh Luang Hoang

* Joseph Fernandez, OP, a priest from Spain

* Joseph Hien Quang Do

* Joseph Khang Duy Nguyen

* Joseph Luu Van Nguyen

* Joseph Marchand, MEP, a priest from France

* Joseph Nghi Kim

* Joseph Thi Dang Le

* Joseph Uyen Dinh Nguyen

* Joseph Vien Dinh Dang

* Joseph Khang, a local doctor

* Joseph Tuc

* Joseph Tuan Van Tran

* Lawrence Ngon

* Lawrence Huong Van Nguyen

* Luke Loan Ba Vu

* Luke Thin Viet Pham

* Martin Tho

* Martin Tinh Duc Ta

* Matthew Alonzo Leziniana, OP, a priest from Spain

* Matthew Phuong Van Nguyen

* Matthew Gam Van Le

* Melchor García Sampedro, OP, a bishop from Spain

* Michael Dinh-Hy Ho

* Michael My Huy Nguyen

* Nicholas Thé Duc Bui

* Paul Hanh

* Paul Khoan Khan Pham

* Paul Loc Van Le

* Paul Tinh Bao Le

* Paul Tong Viet Buong

* Paul Duong

* Pere (Peter) Almató i Ribera, OP, a priest from Catalonia (Spain)

* Peter Tuan

* Peter Dung Van Dinh

* Peter Da

* Peter Duong Van Truong

* Peter Francis Néron, MEP, a priest from France

* Peter Hieu Van Nguyen

* Peter Quy Cong Doan

* Peter Thi Van Truong Pham

* Peter Tuan Ba Nguyen, a fisherman

* Peter Tuy Le

* Peter Van Van Doan

* Philip Minh Van Doan

* Pierre Borie, MEP, a bishop from France

* Simon Hoa Dac Phan

* Stephen Theodore Cuenot, MEP, a bishop from France

* Stephen Vinh

* Théophane Vénard, MEP, a priest from France

* Thomas De Van Nguyen

* Thomas Du Viet Dinh

* Thomas Thien Tran

* Thomas Toan

* Thomas Khuong

* Valentine Berriochoa, OP, a bishop from the Basque Country

* Vicente Liem de la Paz

* Vincent Duong

* Vincent Tuong, a local judge

* Vincent Yen Do

Almighty God, who gave to your servants the Martyrs of Vietnam the boldness to confess the Name of our Savior Jesus Christ before the rulers of this world, and courage to die for this faith: Grant that we may always be ready to give a reason for the hope that is in us, and to suffer gladly for the sake of our Lord Jesus Christ; who lives and reigns with you and the Holy Spirit, one God, for ever and ever. Amen.