#Copper Ended Connector

[yamunason]

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[mychlapci]

<- has been in da server room all day

Hey hey I think Tarantulas should plug Prowl into a whole bunch of servers. Cables snake to and from his frame, lodged into ports never meant for such purposes and wires pulled from him and spliced to those of external computers. The webbing he's tied in coils round his frame and the bundles of rubber-sheathed copper. It's almost indistinguishable where the webs start and wires end.

It's never encouraged for mechs to supplement external processors with their own. It's possible, but the chance of injury is high. Whilst manual limits can be set on the machine to prevent an overdraw of power from the mech, if the mech loses themselves in there, their own will is likely to overpower these manual limits and will burn out their processors.

But since when has Tarantulas ever cared for "encouraged" practices.

Prowl's processor is so beautiful, so boundless in potential. His battle computer was known to be unmatched, and yet was never fully put to the test. He had suggested, several times, for Prowl to allow him just a little test- to see how far he could truly push that wonderful mind of his- but Prowl always refused. A stubborn one, he could be. Sometimes, he needed to be coerced into having a little fun.

And that's how Prowl ends up here. Of course he had struggled, as he always does. But not anymore. Now his frame shudders as a city's worth of data is pumped into him, or through him, really.

Each simulation, each request for a calculation, is pushed into his system via ports that are almost never used. Each push of data is but a shock of static, but together are a frame-rattling charge. So much extra data, and power, flows through his cabling. His actuators twitch and his vocaliser glitches with static.

Prowl always loved a challenge, didn't he? Simple tactics and problem solving weren never enough for his brilliant processor. And yet, Tarantulas had only succeeded in getting Prowl to assist him in a simulation once. Just once.

Just once, he had hooked Prowl up to his newest invention. Just once, he had clicked that data cable into Prowl's waiting port and watched him cry out.

It had been mesmerising. Prowl's frame had tensed, optics wide, darting between unseen strings of data being pushed through his circuits. At first Tarantulas had wondered if his partner was in pain, but soon realised his doorwings twitched in the same way they would when Tarantulas stroked his digits down sensitive panelling.

Oh. Prowl had liked it.

Prowl, goaded into it by the promise of yet another glorious weapon, had later reluctantly confessed that it felt like an itch in his processor had finally been scratched. It almost hurt, and yet it was warm and inviting. It felt like someone reached a servo into his battle computer and yanked- and yanked and yanked until it hurt- but in a way that he craved and sent charge surging through his circuits.

And yet he had never agreed to it again.

Which is why he didn't have a choice this time.

Tarantulas coos as he runs his servo down Prowl's sparking armour, relishing in the way it makes the bot's vocaliser crackle and frame jerk and twitch.

His pedipalps busy with another port in Prowl's side, one sliding the overheated port open, and the other gently pressing yet another cord towards it. Electricity arcs between the connector and the exposed contacts of the port, forcing another aborted cry out of Prowl.

He pushes the head of the cable against the port, but doesn't quite push it in. It's just close enough just for Prowl to be able to feel it's charge.

Tarantulas coos and leans his helm into Prowl's as he continues to tease the connector around the open port, systems purring as Prowl keens and whines at the contact.

"Please...!"

Tarantulas' systems purr louder at the broken plea. His servo comes up to cup Prowl's cheek as he leans in to rest his forehead against his partner's.

"Please what, my dear?" He wiggles the cable against the port again, drawing another cry from Prowl. His voice shakes and he strains so hard that his optics are wet.

How beautiful.

"Please- Please do it. Push it in. I want- I need it- Please-!"

Tarantulas chuckles then, nuzzling against Prowl's solvent-stained cheek.

"Of course, my dear. All you needed to do was ask," he whispers before plunging the cable in. It connects with a barely audible click before Prowl wails, current coursing through his circuits and doorwings going rigid

oughhh this is really something. Tarantulas plugs Prowl back in after all that time and they remember how wonderful it is... his battle computer, his entire processor, blinking and buzzing and rattling as the servers struggle to contain all that charge.

Prowl loves it. Loves how overwhelmed it makes him feel, how terribly full his ports feel as the large connecting cables slide in and fill his frame with stimuli. Everything feels so hot and Tarantulas knows that...

[talopeiros]

Learning to Smelt - 1

I've been wanting to talk about this for a while. Last year, I wanted to pick up smelting. It seemed fun, and felt right up my field in the realm of making things. I did all the research, got the equipment and earlier this year I finally managed to start! My goal is, once I'm comfortable enough to do it solo (since I had help from my insane uncle during my training adventure) to have it livestreamed and smelt things on request! Honestly at this point I reckon my skills have advanced to the point of almost competence (huzzah!) Nonetheless I want to post some stuff showing the process, just in case anyone's curious!

First off, I made an AGGREGIOUS error when it came to choosing the smelter brand. The one I bought didn't have a connector that worked with Australian Gas tanks, only US ones. I was very luck my uncle had a bunch of spare fittings/hoses lying around otherwise it would've been impossible to do anything from the start. Funnily enough too, despite it eventually getting to +1000 C temperatures, it didn't need that much fuel overall! Only had to slightly open the valves with one full rotation on the gas tank. I guess that's by design, since the whole idea is keep heat in (this just in, local hoplite PNGTuber discovers how heat works!) Also, fun fact! Don't buy a shitty $50 temperature gun that says it can get to 1000+ C and expect it to do so! So many infrared sensors are so pricey and there was no way in tartarus that I would use that kinda money on a glorified nerf gun but then it turns out the cheap one I got was incapable of reading anything beyond 400 C. Fortunately you can just eyeball it when it comes to smelting using this simple rule! If metal = solid: Wait If metal = liquid: Congratulations, you've done it!

Have to make sure it's done in a well-ventilated area too. Doubly so if you're melting brass since that garbage can burn and make zinc oxide which is NOT GOOD. First time I melted stuff was just done to make sure I knew what I was doing, not to cast anything. All I did was melt down brass and copper separately to make small ingots.

(btw if you ever plan to make casted finery, don't bother with a specific ingot mold, those things are pricey. Just get a cast iron muffin tray w/o the teflon on it or something similar. You can make a lot more that way and they're more likely to fit in the crucible if you want to re-melt). Also another piece of advice: DON'T OVERLOAD THE CRUCIBLE. My uncle wanted us to melt down all the copper we had (which was a lot, I had been going to town on the neighbourhoods wiring/plumbing in preparation for this) since "it was more energy efficient to smelt more instead of letting it cool down!" While technically true, a crucible full of copper is VERY HEAVY and picking that thing up with crucible tongs is gonna be a legendary struggle. We did end up spilling a bit, fortunately it didn't go anywhere. The vid attached to this post shows it: A crucible full of copper and regret for our lack of forethought. Following day I did try to cast one thing: My channel emblem as a medallion. I poured molten copper into an open sand mold and well, you be the judge:

Still, twas a good first go! Thanks to the ingot molder we used the cast metal in it's default form comes out in a style akin to that of a paperweight.

I'll be posting details on the second and third smelt soon, so stay tuned!

[pico-digital-studios]

Into, Across and Beyond!: Quill Society Logs (First Findings)

(All recorded by Errorverse Sonic.)

Log 5: Recruitment Requirements

"Log 5; recruitment requirements. It's been a couple of months, and the Quill Society's foundation has started well after both the most recent issue my dimension faced and the failed scheme by Eggman Prime to destroy the original Sonic, with a lot of side villains from other universes helping him, including a brainwashed Sara from Dimension OVA-1996.

The recruit applications had been starting to climb since I brought OMT!Mina in. Considering what her Ash tried to do to her back there... I knew I couldn't just leave her to either die or be thrown into prison for the rest of her existence for something she didn't cause. I also bore witness to Eggman Nega's multidimensional energiser trying to muck things up around us. I'm glad OMT!Tails and those who came to his world managed to stop it, though.

Now, as for the point of this log. I've seen the ways the Spider-Society and the Funkin' Society have operated, and it's something I really want to avoid as a bid to make the Quill Society more of a welcoming side-job for heroes from across dimensions. So, here's some major rules I had pinpointed:

No canon event nonsense is to be utilised within the Society. Our motto is doing the right thing, not just abiding by fate by leaving loved ones to perish.

As long as a potential recruit has any ties to a SEGA property or has ownership under SEGA, like how Avalice used to be around a Sonic fan game, they're open for recruit material with no questions asked. I might consider seeing if some of the -friends through the Funkinverse might suit a role here, depending on their ties.

Abuse is an issue I take really seriously here, so therapy is always available for any victims of abuse in their worlds, but inflicting abuse on other Society members is strictly forbidden. And honestly? Anyone utilising rape shamelessly are those I see as deserving of "Damnatio Memoriae", a fate worse than death.

Unless stated otherwise, I will not stand for any Society member or villain from other worlds as "anomalies". It... makes me feel like any nice person called that is cited as undeserving of basic human rights or sympathy.

A hero in the Society has especially gotta be willing to do the right thing if they're open to doing missions out on the field in other dimensions. That's our whole motto, after all, since helping others is always the right thing to do, even if it causes trouble later down the line.

I'll get a rule board set up while the other facilities like the café are under construction, and I'll hopefully document more findings as I go along. End log."

Log 9: Lightmatter and the Shadow Anomalies

"Log 9: Lightmatter and the "shadow anomalies". I've discovered a recurring event in a few Earths, around the Cave Johnson era of Aperture Science before GLaDOS, or the "Genetic Lifeform and Disc Operating System", took over. There was another company existing at the same time while the AI prototype was in construction, not counting Black Mesa, of course. I'm talking about "Lightmatter Technologies".

The company was headed by two men named Virgil and Arthur, who had scaled a mountain to discover photon crystals, though along the way, something ended up costing Virgil one of his legs, but his pride remained steadfast for finding the first photon crystal. Experiments went on with technology like photon connectors and photon power cells, the latter of which was a replacement for copper wiring in one block of the mountain facility, until...

...they managed to complete a central part of the base, known as the "CORE", a collection of massive photon crystals. The company got its name when the photon crystals produced a beam so solid, it literally looked like light had become matter! The general idea was to provide infinitely renewable, clean and sustainable energy to the whole world, and the whole thing genuinely does seem like an awesome concept! At least, on paper.

But underlying problems started happening, when side-effects of the crystals' tapped-into energy started causing minor cellular degradation, such as hair loss. Virgil immediately thought that the matter could be solved by installing mineral decontaminators in the facility, though sicknesses were still high and the facility got practically locked down where Virgil and Arthur had been in... disagreements, meaning no employee could leave.

Shortly after, Arthur had seemingly started poisoning employees and using it as further proof to Lightmatter's board of directors that the energy source was causing these side-effects. Virgil wasn't happy, to say the least, and while he was investigating the matter, he learned from one of his employees, who is named "Ellen" from the tape recordings I've taken from one of the Earths, that Arthur had plans to overload the CORE and destroy the facility. Arthur was quickly chucked out by Virgil and his security manager, James, for his actions.

However, just weeks later, the problems were getting worse. Employees were having intense headaches that only subsided when in presence of light, and the decontaminators were not doing their job, since they were still losing hair and fingernails. Ellen took it upon herself to sneak into Arthur's office and do some investigating as to what he was doing, and what she discovered changed everything.

Arthur had built a prototype of his intended experiment on the CORE, and discovered that the CORE was producing a deep-black, obsidian-like tar that only shows up in complete darkness and causes rapid cellular degradation! We've since referred to these as "shadow anomalies", despite actual shadows not being as harmful. And though Arthur knew, he was clearly willing to risk killing billions of lives just to bring Lightmatter into fruition!

Now, onto that theory. Since the CORE cannot be truly shut down and is completely self-sustaining, another solution was found with the prototype. Overcharging the crystals with multiple mother sources would outright destroy them, and within a radius of the smaller CORE, the shadow anomalies were neutralised and all cellular degradation there came to a stop. He managed to find a solution to the problem!

Fortunately, by some unknown people, any Lightmatter mountains between Earths have been wiped out, with the shadow anomalies all neutralised, even if Ellen couldn't do the deed herself. But... I dread to think what would happen in Earths where the anomalies could leave the mountain unimpeded and wipe out humanity for Virgil to rebuild in his image.

So, if any Earths I can record have a Lightmatter Technologies and there is nobody to stop the CORE, I'll send out agile two-man teams to overload them and wipe them out before the shadow anomalies can wipe out an Earth's civilisation. Ellen, wherever you are now, we owe you big time for uncovering all this information, and you have my gratitude for keeping these tapes intact for us to learn about it. End log."

[sorcerous-caress]

Yeah they did all live under the same roof and the same room because this version of the Merry Men are basically a thieves guild but I forgot to specify that each one of the kids have separate adoptive mothers that are all genderbent members of the Merry Men gang. Gillian Gysbourne who I made alongside my character’s mothers was taken in by Big Joan (genderbent Little John) Katharina Lamelin was taken in by Alana Adell (genderbent Alan-a-Dale) and Esai was taken in by Billie Scathelocke (genderbent Will Scarlett)

This one is Zarek a Warforged Paladin taken in by Cleric Till (genderbent Friar Tuck). Zarek is based on the story of King Midas specifically King Midas’ daughter who he turns to gold when she hugs him. In this version Zarek doesn't die when turned to gold he is still alive and able to move. Originally he was a human but due to the magic of being a man turned to gold he acts similarly to a warforged. After being turned to gold he ran away from his kingdom and ended up running into the Merry Men. He's the oldest of all the other kids being 18 when recruited while most of the others were around 8 or 9 when recruited and by the events of BG3 he’d be 29. He was also 18 when turned to gold and has looked 18 ever since not being able to age.

Also since there’s no option to actually make a character gold in BG3 I just had to give a rough idea of how he looks.

Also you’re right to see similarities in Robyn Hood and Jaheria because I immediately caught that after going to her house in Baldur’s Gate. Both blonde, both wear green, both are folk heroes, both have adopted kids. My Tav would probably be very close to Jaheria due to how much she reminds him of his mom. I don’t think he’d ever tell Jaheria why he’s so close to her though at least not unprompted.

Gold?? GOLD?? WARFORGED?

OKAY lemme be a nerd for a moment so.

Idk shit about electronics but I was researching stuff about computers the other day out of curiosity and I've always wondered why do they use so much gold in them?

Long long rant below about gold as a conductor and warforged in general

Let's start with the fact most warforged are made! For one to appear naturally like yours is very unique experience, so much I can't even think of another situation where a warforged is just born into the world without an inventor.

And since warforged are made, they're really really fucking expensive. Much like a decent pc in today's standard would cost around 1000$ just to meet the minimum requirements for most games and softwares. And even those ones are quickly degerading, especially since Windows 11 rolled around, most of the low end pcs don't meet the requirements to update to it.

Imagine how expensive a warforged would be? Probably ten times as that just for a low end one. So to lower the cost people use copper wiring, switches and connectors.

There is also silver an aluminium but copper has the best rounded out stats for its price.

Then comes gold, which literally sweeps the floor with all the other competition. Gold is so much superior as a conductor in electronics that even just plating things with a thin gold layer helps in improving them and allowing for more electrons to pass through faster.

But it's expensive, crazy expensive which is why it's literally unimaginable for someone to make a warforged out of gold, that's Nasa space computer level budget.

Everyone except for Zarek, who was handed his literal own weight in gold.

Other reasons why Gold is superior in electronics

It doesn't oxidise (or only does very very veryyyyy slowly) and there is no fear or tarnish or rusting! Literally a warforged worst ever enemy. Gold isn't reactive either so there is no fear of it mixing with chemicals. It is a noble metal! Which means any alchemist or evil witch throwing potions your way would probably have zero effects.

It's extremely easy to mould and work with. Gold can be recycled, and there are so many gold jewellers across the globe who specialise in working with it. A warforged made out of gold would have an easier time finding a smith or jeweller willing to fix them up! Plus, it allows for a lot of decorative opportunities since gold can be moulded into any shape and isn't brittle , nor does it break easily. (Gold purple exists too, a naturally purple gold, but it is extremely brittle, so ignore it)

AMAZING CONDUCTIVITY, i can't even stress this enough. Your warforged would be running at 240hz with a 4x64GB RAM in comparison to your every day to day warforged.

IT LOOKS METAL(hehe) AS FUCK

And making him based on that fairytale concept is such a good backstory? Fuck that's a beautiful fully closed loop that I'm adorning. This is just a great character concept 10/10

Also I really like the make up! It was the first thing I noticed before reading the ask. Now I know it's just supposed to resemble gold but still.

If you ever play on pc or with mods, there are multiple skin colours ones that can make him glossy and metalic gold yellow!

Idk if this was intended, but the name Zarek is also an arabic word

زَريق

Which can mean "blueish" or "to become blue"

Also can mean something hitting the target, the action of it connecting with its target is called zarek.

Side note: Sol would literally be so obsessed with a gold made warforged. Gold in general is the love of their love so making a living being out of it is like winning the jackpot. If their bad ending ever happens, Zarek is on top of the lists of people they plan to kidnap and keep in their dragon hoard. Zarek better stay away from any flying red dragons who'd wanna snatch him up.

[christanworkshop]

Weathering Ghostbusters Proton Pack

Everyone who got a Haslab Ghostbusters Proton Pack must have watched Adam Savage's video on all the upgrades and weathering he did to his Proton Pack and decided to do the same thing. Well, I am one of those people ... LOL I actually did this earlier this year and just posting it now, so some things below may not be in chronological order.

I started with the easy stuff, applying wire tape over the faux wire tape and Rub'nBuff the connectors. Love the results of using Rub'nBuff.

This was followed by using Rub'nBuff for the rest of the pack. I think I went a little overboard with it ... LOL

It was a pain trying to find the right cable sleeve over here in Malaysia, so I had to improvise.

I also designed and printed some stickers.

And finally to my makeshift spray booth to blast it with hair dye and matte coat, like what Adam Savage did in his video earlier.

Okay, not really final, as all modders know, there is always more to be done ... LOL ... I put copper tape on the ends of the connector wires and replaced some screws with more screen accurate ones, and weathered them accordingly.

Well, that's as far as I've gotten. I still need to weather my Neutrona Wand. That will be a project for another day.

[pioneerpowers]

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[suyooo]

Making BIG SIF2 (Part 2)

Hello again. In case you missed the first part of this project, I'm trying to recreate an old SIF(1) attraction where nine players jump around on floor buttons to play the game cooperatively. Last time, I went into how those buttons work, how they connect to the game, and completed the first switch.

Just need to do that eight more times.

This is another post with a bunch of text I'm writing down as I work on the project, in case you want to see where it's going or want to build something similar yourself. The TL;DR is that all floor switches are done now, I had to change the button mapping app, and found a nice solution for selecting songs and starting Lives - and then there's a video of me trying (emphasis on trying) to play BIG SIF solo.

This is the part of a project where there's nothing to do but boring, repetitive work. There is more interesting stuff to do, but you can't get to it before you just spend several hours doing the same thing over and over again, and it's hard to get excited to do it. So, even though this was probably the most time-consuming step of the project with 25+ hours, it can be summarized in one sentence: there are now eight more functioning switches.

This involved cutting out a total of 24 more shelf liner circles, clipping holes into 8 more rug pad spacers and 8 of the shelf liners, inserting 128 snap caps, crimping 16 connectors, and placing all the copper tape and soldering it together. One small change I made is that I added a little bit of copper tape to move all the connectors a bit to the side, so you don't step right on it when going for a press, and also gave it a generous glob of hot glue to serve as strain relief. Also, I had to purchase more anti-slip rug pad after all - turns out most of the one I owned was too flat to work properly. Oops. With the new rug pad, I noticed this beady style of rug pad is more stretchy on one axis than the other, so these layers are not rotationally symmetrical. To help with that, I cut out the corner where the connectors are glued on - not only does this make that spot a little flatter, but it also makes it easy to tell which orientation the pads must be placed when assembling the switches to align everything correctly.

Since I don't own any proper presses, all of the snap caps and crimp connectors had to be done by hand. That - combined with all the liner cutting, rug pad trimming, and soldering - has not been a fun time for my wrist :) It might be a good idea to invest into snap cap and crimp presses instead of pliers, it's probably cheaper than replacing my wrist down the road... and for the soldering, I'll probably just go with copper tape with conductive adhesive next time as mentioned before, to avoid that problem altogether.

Speaking of crimp connectors: add 36 more to the count for those connecting cables, and 18 more for the other ends on the controller board. The latter one just involved replacing the little button connectors the board comes with, which would usually make it easier to wire up arcade panels.

As for the cables, those are speaker wire. It's probably extremely overkill for a simple signal wire. I originally wanted to use dirt-cheap doorbell wire which would have been more than enough to carry the signal even over long runs, but there were two reasons I didn't go with it. One reason is that doorbell wire is solid wire. But if people might step on the wire, or I want to roll up and transport the parts of this project, stranded wire is far more durable, so I wanted to make sure to use it for the extra reliability. The other reason is that it was on sale :) I decided on buying a 25m roll and having each cable be 2m long - which is probably somewhat overkill again, but for things like cable length, I'd rather go too long than too short.

But hey, we've got over the mountain that is the boring and repetitive part of the project, and now we can ride down the hill to the finish!

Wait, no, that would have been too easy. Of course there's problems.

There was something that I completely missed in my test from the first post. I only had one floor switch, so I didn't try an actual song, which would have uncovered a big issue with using Key Mapper: it doesn't support pressing multiple buttons at once. If one player holds down a switch for a hold note, and another player taps their switch, the hold immediately ends. And of course, I didn't notice that problem until I actually had multiple floor switches completed.

After a few hours of searching and experimenting, I could only find one other app that worked. It is called Mantis, and it sucks. It contains ads, requires a weird and completely intransparent set up procedure through a wireless ADB debugging session, you must map the inputs of the arcade controller board to an Xbox controller layout before you can use them or they'll just be ignored, there's an unremovable menu button on your screen at all times, the map can't be programmatically disabled to stop the buttons from inputting for a moment, and I've found it's maybe a little unreliable? It just suddenly stopped while the game was running once. But as I said, it's the only one that I've found that works. So, I'll have to live with it. At least it supports the holds that Key Mapper doesn't do. So, you can play the game fine now. We can get back to finishing up the setup.

But before that, have you noticed though some of the mapped tap locations for the buttons are slightly off from the center of the spots in the game? I intentionally moved them a little, so they still hit the tap spots during Lives, but miss certain menu buttons! For example, the tap locations for spots 4 and 6 are moved down, so they don't hit the menu buttons while the game is paused. Otherwise, the player on floor switch 6 could accidentally use up my loveca if they kept stomping on the button after their stamina ran out and continued…

Here's everything connected together! The nine completed switches, all linked up to the board, and all that's left to do is set up Mantis and the HDMI output on the phone, plug in the single USB-C cable, and it's ready to play!

But before we plug everything into the phone, I really quickly want to note something about the adapter: The adapter required for this project was not just about needing a way to go from USB-A to USB-C - after all, that could have been solved even easier by just replacing the USB-B-to-A cable of the board with a USB-B-to-C cable and connecting it directly to the phone. As you might have been able to tell from the cover picture from the first post, playing BIG SIF on the phone screen is kind of... not optimal. So, the adapter had to have both an USB-A port and an HDMI port, so you could show the game on a TV or projector!

The adapter I ended up picking not only had those two ports, but also two more USB-A sockets and an USB-C socket. The USB-C port is for power delivery - everything runs off of the phone battery if it is not used, but this allows you to use a powerbank to extend the battery, or just plug in a wall charger so you don't have to worry about it at all. And the other USB-A ports come in really handy, as well. One of them can be used for an Ethernet adapter, which can vastly improve the stability of the required internet connection, if available. As for the other USB-A... one problem I hadn't considered at all is the game menus. As in, song selection and actually getting into the game. Of course, you could always just walk over to the phone, and try to find the correct tap spot on the screen that is turned off, then walk back to the switches - but there's a better approach thanks to that last USB port, with a wireless keyboard I had around already:

This one in particular is a wireless keyboard and touchpad combo, which gets recognized as a generic keyboard and mouse on any device you can plug it into - including Android. So now, you can use the touchpad on that to move around a cursor and do the menuing that way, without having to run back and forth! It's still a little awkward to control the pointer via the touchpad, but there's more that you can do: the keyboard part is not actually needed for this project, since we don't need to type any text... and Key Mapper is sitting idle now that we replaced it with Mantis, so how about we pass the keyboard to it? The keyboard won't have to deal with multiple simultaneous presses, so by setting up keys from it in Key Mapper, we can get an entire keyboard worth of buttons to map even more taps to! That way, instead of having to move the cursor across the screen, you can select and start songs by just pressing a few keys in order. And Mantis still handles the floor switches, so holding down the buttons still works fine, no matter how many are pressed.

Also, yes, I am planning to run regular Lives when playing on this. You might be wondering - "Why? There's a Rehearsal mode now, wouldn't that be better for something like this?" And the answer is yes, it absolutely would be, since I don't have to care about LP or running out of HP during a Live then! But the Rehearsal mode has a static background (see video below) instead of the cool Live Monitor, so I'll be happy to sacrifice my LP candies for the cool effects :) I'm not going to ever use all of them, anyways. And as for the HP problem, I could just add some healers... and if anyone ever wants to see how badly a Master chart would go, I can still start a Rehearsal by clicking on that button using the touch pad.

~~~ a quick little bit of an aside

Speaking of Rehearsal though, even if I'm not using that mode - can I just say how much I appreciate SIF2's gameplay direction? It just feels like the game is far more about "having fun just playing songs" than SIF1. There's changes like the ability to restart songs right from the pause menu if you're aiming for an FC, not losing LP if you fail, all songs being unlocked from the start - but also, obviously, the addition of the Rehearsal mode, where you can play any song without using LP and with infinite HP. One key result of this kind of design is that the game is far less punishing for making a mistake, and I think it invites people to challenge themselves to higher difficulties. There's no need to play it safe anymore: If you're curious about whether you could pass a Master chart, you can just play it, without having to worry about failing and wasting resources anymore. If the chart ends up being too hard, you don't lose any LP or other resources. You can choose to either run it back as many times as you want, or to play another song, neither option carrying any penalty. That makes the harder difficulties so much more approachable, and I think it's a fantastic change.

~~~ back to your regularly scheduled programming

With the system fully set up, it can finally be played! The problem being, I don't have nine players here, just one. I tried a couple times, but it went about as well as you'd expect, even on Normal - it's kind of hard to consistenly find and hit the floor switches while staring at the screen. But it does work! All the buttons work great (as long as I can hit them)! And even with me stepping on the connectors and cables and kicking the switches around by accident, they don't immediately break.

So with that, the project is technically done! All the switches are functional, you can play BIG SIF as intended, and I can bring the controller system anywhere. That's a massive milestone done, of course - but overall, this project still very much in the "janky mess of cables" state. So there's still some stuff to do...

On the next part of Making BIG SIF2: making it nice, making it good. Probably at least a box to put everything in, maybe something to improve reliability, maybe make the interface something better than just a keyboard with labels on it? Let's see how far I can take this

update: you can find the third part here!

[earthingproducts]

Steps to Install Grounding Rods and Alligator Clip to Ensure Effective Grounding

Is it the first time you plan to carry a portable generator or you think about temporary electric fencing? If so, make sure you know how to use a grounding rod.

Grounding rods play a crucial role in ensuring the safety of electrical systems. You can use them for protecting against electrical faults and lightning strikes, dissipating static electricity, equipment grounding, and stabilizing electrical systems.

Generator grounding rods are available in different types. Such as copper rods, galvanized steel rods, and stainless steel rods. No matter which one you choose, you can establish an effective electrical ground only if use them properly.

In this article, let’s talk about the general steps to install grounding rods and alligator clip and ensure effective grounding in the area.

Step 1: Identify the installation location

Determine the appropriate location to install the grounding rod. Usually, it should be placed close to the electrical system that requires grounding.

The soil for grounding should have good moisture content as moist soil offers better conductivity.

You should avoid areas with shallow bedrock, large rocks, or other obstructions that restrict grounding rod insertion.

Step 2: Select a suitable grounding rod

As mentioned earlier, grounding rods are made of copper or steel. Copper rods are known for their excellent conductivity and resistance to corrosion. You can use this to serve your grounding purpose.

Copper grounding rods should have the required length based on local electrical codes and standards. Generally, a grounding rod is about 8 to 10 feet long.

Step 3: Find the installation tools

Besides grounding rods, a portable generator installation also requires other essential tools.

With ordinary grounding rods, you need a grounding clamp and a wire stripper to prepare the grounding wire. Not so with the Nasafes grounding rod, because here everything works with plug and play connectors. All you need is a hammer to drive the stick into the ground.

Step 4: Place the grounding rod

Before you place the rod, you should clear any debris or vegetation from the installation area.

Using suitable tools, you can drive the grounding rod into the ground vertically and ensure proper insertion.

The top end of the grounding rod should be accessible and protruding from the ground surface.

Step 5: Choose the alligator clip

Find an alligator clip based on several factors, such as size, material, and electrical specifications.

You should ensure that the jaws of the alligator clip are clean and free from any dirt hindering the electrical connection.

Step 6: Place and secure the alligator clip

The plug of the grounding cable is plugged directly into the grounding rod and the alligator clip is connected to the device to be grounded, such as a generator or electric fence.

A established and secure connection is thus guaranteed because the grounding cable is connected directly to the copper rod.

Step 7: Verify the grounding system

Once the grounding rod and alligator clip are in place, it’s essential to test the grounding system to determine its effectiveness.

Experts prefer using a grounding resistance tester or a multimeter to measure the resistance between the grounding system and the Earth. According to the result, you can take the necessary measures. For example, if the resistance is too high, you can improve the soil moisture or add additional grounding rods.

Conclusion

In order to maintain the integrity of electrical systems and safeguard assets, it's essential to understand the significance of grounding rods and how to use it for proper installation. Now, the installation requirements may vary depending on local electrical codes. In such cases, you can consult a licensed electrician or qualified professional to ensure proper grounding rod installation complying with the regulations.

[yamunason]

Protect Your Equipment with Yamuna Denson's Heat Shrinkable End Caps

Yamuna Denson Heat Shrinkable End Caps provide optimum waterproofing and environmental protection for underwater, underground, and outdoor applications. Our heat-shrink end caps are highly resistant to moisture, fungus, and weathering. We also offer electrical end caps with pre-coat sealants. The heat-shrink end caps are available in several sizes to accommodate varying cable diameters due to their large range-taking ability.

Contact Us Today.

[suntelecomcn]

Data Center Cabling Solution: Active Optical Cable

As data rates rise and data center grows in size, copper cable is getting stretched to its limits. However,  active optical cable (AOC) has emerged to replace copper cable in data centers and high-performance computing (HPC) applications. It provides high-speed, high reliability, high flexibility, and low power consumption. This article will provide some knowledge of AOC cable. 

What is an Active Optical Cable?

Active optical cable (AOC) is an optical fiber jumper cable terminated with optical transceivers on both ends. It uses electrical-to-optical conversion on the cable ends to improve the speed and distance performance of the cable without sacrificing compatibility with standard electrical interfaces.

Active Optical Cable Structure

AOC cable consists of the fiber optic connector and fiber cable. The connection between fiber cable and fiber optic connectors is not separable. If the fiber optic connector or fiber cable needs to be changed, they should be removed together. The electrical and optical signal conversion can be achieved right through each end of the optical fiber.

Active Optical Cable Types

There are several varieties of AOC cable available on the market , including 10G SFP+ AOC, 25G SFP28 AOC,40G QSFP+ AOC, 56G QSFP+ AOC, 40G QSFP+ to 4x SFP+ breakout AOC, 40G QSFP+ to 8x LC breakout AOC, 100G QSFP28 AOC, 100G QSFP28 to 4x SFP28 breakout AOC and 120G CXP AOC, etc. These AOC cables are commonly used for short-range multi-lane data communication and interconnect applications between two devices, such as rack-to-rack, shelf-to-shelf interconnect, storage, hubs, switches, routers, servers, etc.

Features and Benefits

AOC cable provides low power consumption, high density, high speed, high reliability, high security, small size, strong heat dissipation, low electromagnetic interference, long transmission distance, low energy consumption, low latency, lightweight, and ease of installation.

Application Scenarios

AOC Cable is used to connect top-of-row (ToR) switches to end-of-row aggregation switches, and to connect the ToR switch with storage subsystems at reaches greater than direct attach copper (DAC) limits of 3-7 meters. The following three scenarios show the specific applications.

Scenario 1:  AOC cable is used to connect two switches directly.

Scenario 2: The breakout AOC cable provides a highly cost-effective way to connect within racks and across adjacent racks. The following figure shows 40GbE QSFP+ to 4 x SFP+ AOC cable connecting to a 40G QSFP+ port switch on one end, and to four 10G SFP+ port switches on the other end.

Scenario 3: For the long-haul transmission between the two switches, a suitable solution is recommended to use single-mode patch cable, OEO converters, and AOC cables, which can provide seamless integration of different fiber types by converting multi-mode fiber to single-mode fiber.

Conclusion

AOC cable achieves high data rates over long reaches interconnection, which is the best solution for data centers and high-performance computing applications. Sun Telecom specializes in providing one-stop total fiber optic solutions for all fiber optic application industries worldwide. Contact us if any needs.

[excellencewire]

Unshielded U/UTP CAT.6 Flat Patch Cord

EXW High quality Cat.6 U/UTP FLAT Patch Cord. Both ends with shielded 50U" gold thickness RJ45 male connectors.

● High Quality Flat Patch Cord with Different Moldings

● Cat.6A / Cat.6 / C5E Available.

● Bare Copper with More Stable Performance

● 50U" Gold Plating RJ45 Plugs with Patented Design

● Various Colors & Molding Available

● Mating Cycles: Up to 1200 Times

● Suitable 4PPoE (IEEE802.3bt / IEC60512-99-002) Applications

● Operation Temperature Range:-10~60 ℃

● 4PPoE / CE Certified & Comply with RoHS & REACH

[discoverymar]

What Material is Best for Audio Cables?

When it comes to selecting the best material for audio cables, the choice significantly impacts sound quality, durability, and cost. Audio cables are vital for transmitting sound signals from one device to another, and the material used for the conductor, insulation, and shielding plays a critical role. While several materials are used in manufacturing audio cables, copper, silver, and gold are the most common, each with unique properties that influence their performance.

Best Headphone Cables

Copper: The Industry Standard Copper is the most widely used material for audio cables due to its excellent electrical conductivity and affordability. Oxygen-free copper (OFC) is particularly popular because it offers reduced oxidation and better sound transmission. Copper cables provide a balanced combination of performance and price, making them the go-to option for most consumers. Despite its many advantages, copper is susceptible to corrosion over time, which can affect signal quality if not properly maintained.

Silver: Premium Conductivity Silver is a step above copper in terms of conductivity, making it an ideal choice for audiophiles seeking superior sound quality. Its lower resistance allows signals to pass through with minimal loss, resulting in clearer and more precise audio. However, silver cables are significantly more expensive than copper, and their cost often outweighs the marginal improvement in sound quality for the average user. Silver is also prone to tarnishing, though this does not typically affect its conductivity.

Gold: Corrosion Resistance Gold is not as conductive as copper or silver but excels in corrosion resistance. It is often used as a plating material for cable connectors rather than the primary conductor. Gold-plated connectors ensure long-lasting performance, especially in environments prone to humidity or oxidation. While pure gold cables are rare and not cost-effective, its inclusion as a plating material enhances the longevity and reliability of audio connections.

Choosing the Right Material The best material for audio cables depends on the user’s needs and budget. For everyday use, copper cables provide excellent value and performance. For high-end applications or professional audio setups, silver might be worth the investment. Gold-plated connectors, regardless of the conductor material, are a smart choice for ensuring durability. Ultimately, understanding the trade-offs between conductivity, cost, and durability can help you make an informed decision tailored to your specific audio requirements.

[theringlord]

The Role of Jump Rings in Keychain Crafting

Jump rings are an essential component in crafting durable and visually appealing keychains. Whether you're creating a simple keyring or a more intricate design, jump rings provide the functionality and flexibility to hold everything together. In this article, we explore the significance of jump rings for keychains and how to use them effectively.

What Are Jump Rings?

Jump rings are small, circular or oval metal loops that act as connectors in a variety of crafts. For keychains, they’re indispensable in linking decorative elements, charms, or tags to the main ring or chain. They come in various materials, sizes, and finishes, making them adaptable to different design requirements.

Types of Jump Rings for Keychains

Open Jump Rings:

These have a small slit that allows them to be opened and closed with pliers.

Best for adding or removing elements, making them ideal for customizable keychains.

Closed Jump Rings:

These are soldered shut and cannot be opened, providing extra strength and security.

Commonly used in designs where durability is a priority.

Split Rings:

Often confused with jump rings, split rings are like miniature keyrings. They provide a secure connection without the need for soldering.

Perfect for attaching heavy or high-stress items.

Heavy-Duty Jump Rings:

Made from thicker gauge wire, these rings are specifically designed to handle heavier loads.

Great for keychains meant to hold multiple keys or larger decorative elements.

Choosing the Right Jump Rings for Keychains

When selecting jump rings for keychains, consider these factors:

Material:

Stainless Steel: Offers excellent strength and is resistant to rust and tarnish.

Brass or Copper: Provides a warm, vintage aesthetic but may require sealing to prevent tarnish.

Aluminum: Lightweight and affordable but less durable.

Size:

The diameter and gauge of the jump ring should complement the size and weight of your keychain components.

Larger rings (e.g., 10mm OD or more) work well for substantial designs, while smaller ones (e.g., 6mm OD) are better for delicate charms.

Finish:

Polished, matte, or oxidized finishes can enhance the overall look of the keychain.

How to Use Jump Rings for Keychains

Prepare Your Tools:

Use two pairs of flat-nose or chain-nose pliers to open and close jump rings.

Avoid using your fingers to prevent distortion.

Open the Ring:

Hold the ring with one pair of pliers on either side of the opening.

Gently twist the ends away from each other—never pull them apart directly.

Attach Components:

Slide the desired charm, tag, or chain onto the jump ring.

If attaching to a split ring or keyring, ensure the jump ring is large enough to fit securely.

Close the Ring:

Twist the ends back together until they align perfectly. A tight closure ensures strength and durability.

Benefits of Using Jump Rings for Keychains

Versatility: Easily connect a variety of materials, from leather straps to metal tags.

Customizability: Swap out charms or elements for personalized designs.

Durability: High-quality jump rings provide secure connections that withstand daily use.

Aesthetic Appeal: Available in various finishes to match any design theme.

Creative Keychain Ideas Using Jump Rings

Layered Designs:

Use multiple jump rings to create cascading layers of charms.

Combine different ring sizes for a dynamic look.

Themed Keychains:

Attach charms that represent hobbies, interests, or professions using jump rings.

Beaded Keychains:

String beads onto a wire and secure them with jump rings for a colorful, tactile design.

Minimalist Styles:

Use a single, polished jump ring to attach a sleek metal tag for a modern aesthetic.

Maintenance Tips for Keychains with Jump Rings

Check for Gaps: Regularly inspect the rings for any gaps that might compromise their hold.

Reinforce Weak Points: For extra security, consider using soldered rings or applying a dab of jewelry glue.

Clean Periodically: Keep jump rings clean by wiping them with a soft cloth to remove dirt or oils.

Conclusion

Jump rings are a vital component in keychain crafting, offering both functionality and design flexibility. By choosing the right type, size, and material, and mastering proper usage techniques, you can create durable and attractive keychains. Whether for personal use or as a handmade gift, jump rings help bring your creative visions to life.

[provisionavl]

Choosing the Right Speaker Cables for Superior Sound Quality

When it comes to setting up a high-quality audio system, selecting the right speaker cables is just as crucial as choosing your speakers or amplifier. These cables are the backbone of your sound system, transmitting the audio signal with precision and clarity. Whether you're an audiophile, sound engineer, or casual listener, understanding the importance of speaker cables can elevate your listening experience.

Why Speaker Cables Matter

The role of speaker cables is often underestimated. They ensure the seamless transfer of audio signals from your amplifier to your speakers, making them critical for achieving optimum performance. Poor-quality cables can result in signal loss, distortion, or reduced audio clarity, which can compromise your entire audio setup.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Speaker Cables

Cable Gauge (Thickness): The gauge of a speaker cable determines its ability to transmit power efficiently. Thicker cables (lower gauge numbers) are ideal for long distances and high-power systems, as they minimize resistance and signal loss.

Length: The length of the cable is a key factor. Shorter cables are preferred for minimizing signal degradation, but in larger spaces, high-quality longer cables like those from Procab can maintain audio integrity.

Material: Most speaker cables are made of copper due to its excellent conductivity. Some high-end cables use oxygen-free copper for enhanced performance.

Connector Type: Ensure compatibility between the cable connectors and your audio equipment. Common connectors include banana plugs, spade lugs, and bare wire.

Why Choose Procab Speaker Cables?

Procab is a trusted name in the audio industry, known for its durable, high-performance cables. Their speaker cables are designed to deliver reliable performance across various applications, whether you're setting up a home theater, professional studio, or concert sound system.

With a focus on quality and innovation, Procab speaker cables provide:

Exceptional signal clarity

Robust construction for durability

Compatibility with a wide range of audio equipment

Optimize Your Audio Experience

Investing in the right speaker cables is an investment in better sound quality. By choosing Procab, you’re ensuring that your audio setup performs at its best, providing you with an immersive and enjoyable listening experience.