#Andrea Chung

[abwwia]

Andrea Chung, installation view of the exhibition “if they put an iron circle around your neck I will bite it away,” John Michael Kohler Arts Center, Sheboygan, Michigan, 2022.

Photo : Courtesy of the artist and the John Michael Kohler Arts Center, Sheboygan, Michigan.

[bigcats-birds-and-books]

Indie Bookstore Day 2024!

I can hardly be expected to have shelf control if Indie Bookstore Day and my birthday are within, like, a week of each other, right?? ESPECIALLY not if one of them was doing a Buy 3 Get 1 Free on paperbacks (evidenced by the bottom row), and if ARCHANGELS OF FUNK and TRANSLATION STATE were Birthday Gifts To Myself (pre-ordered in December and everything!)??

Anyway! Great week for books! Good thing we gave up on the moderated book buying ban, huh.

[sohmiya]

seven 5:34 AM

seven lawless x f!oc: andrea chung

if: infamous by @infamous-if

written by andi in her secret songwriting notebook <3

here i was thinking

i would never have to write this at all

how did something that started out so right

end up so wrong?

i swear i’m glad that you’re doing better

doing things that we planned together

i just wish i’d known then

you would do them alone

i’ve been lying through my teeth

i tell our friends i can take it each time our eyes meet

like i’m not the first one to break it

i’ve racked my brain for words to say

that could’ve changed your mind

it was supposed to be

the whole world versus you and i

now you’re further than the rest

but you’re still the one who knows me best

you have the upper hand

i’ve never seen you so cynical

you turn into a stranger right before my eyes

i guess that makes more sense

in the way we don’t speak at all

otherwise, you go and try to pick a fight

you never stutter when you say you blame me

when did it become easier for you to hate me?

what am i still trying to save?

has someone taken my place?

i’ve been lying through my teeth

i tell our friends i can take it each time our eyes meet

like i’m not the first one to break it

i’ve racked my brain for words to say

that could’ve changed your mind

it was supposed to be

the whole world versus you and i

now you’re further than the rest

but you’re still the one who knows me best

so before you go,

can you send my best regards to your mom?

if she asks, tell her i’m alright

i can’t say it’s made up, though it’s half a lie

you’re too fine to pick up on what’s plaguing my mind

our conversation on your rooftop that night

i’ve been lying through my teeth

i tell our friends i can take it each time our eyes meet

like i’m not the first one to break it

i’ve racked my brain for words to say

that could’ve changed your mind

it was supposed to be

the whole world versus you and i

now you’re further than the rest

but you’re still the one who knows me best

[thetristoneera]

While looking up faces for my characters, I used a number of randoes to actuals. New Profile Pic, the AI Art Generator has improved a lot of my story telling capabilities. Then they started to add features over the years… This is one of the best features they’ve added in a long time. Some of my favorite things in life are women, chicks, dames, broads, ladies, girls, females in general, imagination land, wings & fantasy. 🤙🏽

[fourorfivemovements]

Films Watched in 2023: 113. May December (2023) - Dir. Todd Haynes

[randomrichards]

MAY DECEMBER:

Actress does research

Teacher who married student

Real or exploited

[rollercoasterwords]

hey rae! you said you haven’t been reading many fics lately and i was wondering what were your favorite books you read this year :))

LOVE this question omg thank u 4 giving me an excuse 2 talk abt books <3 i'm gonna split this into fiction + nonfiction + poetry...will try 2 keep it somewhat concise but. fear it may get long...

fiction

the archive of alternate endings, by lindsey drager [favorite book i've read all year]

how to live safely in a science fictional universe, by charles yu

giovanni's room, by james baldwin

stone butch blues, by leslie feinberg

i'll give you the sun, by jandy nelson

and then i woke up, by malcolm devlin

on earth we're briefly gorgeous, by ocean vuong

cursed bunny, by bora chung

i have the right to destroy myself, by young-ha kim

infect your friends and loved ones, by torrey peters

the bloody chamber and other stories, by angela carter

at least we can apologize, by lee ki-ho

nonfiction

playing the whore: the work of sex work, by melissa gira grant

cistem failure: essays on blackness and cisgender, by marquis bey

gender trouble: feminism and the subversion of identity, by judith butler

essays against publishing, by jamie berrout

trans liberation: beyond pink or blue, by leslie feinberg

females, by andrea long chu

socialism: utopian and scientific, by friedrich engels

capitalist realism: is there no alternative? by mark fisher

whipping girl: a transsexual woman on sexism and the scapegoating of femininity, by julia serrano

poetry

soft science, by franny choi

grit, by silas denver melvin

in the pines, by alice notley

[llovelymoonn]

hello darling could you do a webweave on chronic illness/ the body you live in and love not loving you back? thank you 😘

erika l. sánchez departure \\ jessica lauren chung \\ heidi andrea restrepo rhodes wet sands: poetry exchanges: "a small disunified theory" \\ rainer maria rilke journal of my other self (via @weltenwellen) \\ erika l. sánchez all of us \\ @mysticalspiders

kofi

[siegecraft]

2023 Reading (So Far)

For the first time in a couple years I'm actually on track to finish a book each week, which is always one of my yearly goals. Below is a list of what I've read so far and which books I particularly recommend.

✨ incredible, recommend without exception ☕ I quite enjoyed this but your mileage may vary

Novels & Novellas The Candy House by Jennifer Egan Tomorrow, and Tomorrow, and Tomorrow by Gabrielle Zevin ✨ Interior Chinatown by Charles Yu Upright Women Wanted by Sarah Gailey The Charm Offensive by Alison Cochrun All Grown Up by Jami Attenberg Swamplandia! by Karen Russell Any Other City by Hazel Jane Plante ☕ Paul Takes the Form of a Mortal Girl by Andrea Lawlor The Guest by Emma Cline Turtles All the Way Down by John Green Mostly Dead Things by Kristen Arnett Romantic Comedy by Curtis Sittenfeld ☕ Finna by Nino Cipri Pet by Akwaeke Emezi ✨ Harlem Shuffle by Colson Whitehead ✨ Fiona and Jane by Jean Chen Ho Crook Manifesto by Colson Whitehead ☕ Luster by Raven Leilani ☕ Counterweight by Djuna

Short Stories Night of the Living Rez by Morgan Talty ✨ God of Want by K-Ming Chang Manywhere by Morgan Thomas ☕ Cursed Bunny by Bora Chung Someone Who Will Love You in All Your Damaged Glory: Stories by Raphael Bob-Waksberg

Nonfiction & Essays Bad Jews: A History of American Jewish Politics and Identities by Emily Tamkin Tanqueray by Brandon Stanton and Stephanie Johnson You Sound Like a White Girl by Julissa Arce Side Affects: On Being Trans and Feeling Bad by Hil Malatino ☕ Minor Feelings: An Asian American Reckoning by Cathy Park Hong ✨

Poetry Bloodstone Cowboy by Kara Jackson ✨ Homie by Danez Smith ✨ Tits on the Moon by Dessa ☕

Comics/Graphic Novels The Boondocks: Because I Know You Don't Read the Newspaper by Aaron McGruder ☕ The Boondocks: Fresh for '01...You Suckas by Aaron McGruder ☕

[a-moth-to-the-light]

Most-Listened of January 2024

[last month]

Yeah, winter officially hit this month. Half of December was too Finals to be winter, and the other half was me reflecting on the year in music (so lots of 2023's most hard-hitting songs, which weren't exactly cozy winter music!). But in January, the snowy-gray-won't-leave-the-house mood actually hit--and I think it shows in this list (prepare yourself for LOTS of gloomy folk)! There were so many exciting releases this month, though, even though I couldn't muster up all that much energy about them--I'm really excited to see how the Sleater-Kinney, G-IDLE & Andrea Santiago albums will age!

1 . Boy's a liar Pt.2 -- PinkPantheress, Ice Spice

Yeah I sooooo get it now!! Like I don't fully get the lyrics, but it's so charming that I don't care! It's peak girl-next-door sweetness :)

2. BDH - Acústica Versión -- Bely Basarte

The first time I heard this, I wrote down: "Now THIS is how you do layered harmonies, cowards." I stand by my assessment—this is proof that acoustic tracks aren't boring, at least not when you give them a soundscape as beautiful as this one!

3. Tanta adrenalina -- Bely Basarte

This reminds me of the summer I was obsessed with Chung Ha's "California Dream"—even in January, I need some light, fluffy house in my life! (And yes, you can see that my Bely Basarte phase has kept going strong from last month!!)

4. Big Black Car -- Gregory Alan Isakov

I am a sad boy <3 (HOPE WAS A LETTER I NEVER COULD SEND !!!!)

5. Lost On You -- LP

I've been watching Loudermilk this month, and when I heard this song in the end credits of an episode, I instantly went to find it online. It's so wonderfully desolate, especially with those vocals... and the soft jingling of the guitar... *happy arm wave*

6. Southern Star -- Gregory Alan Isakov

Can’t stop singing this one—the melody is pure magic!

7. When the Party's Over -- Faux Paz

I like the original version better, but I'll never get tired of Faux Paz, either!

8. Ungrateful -- Megan Thee Stallion, Key Glock

Saw @shyreol post about this, and I'm so glad I decided to check it out (thank you for sharing)!! I'm absolutely obsessed with the hook—instant comfort song!

9. The Healing Game -- Van Morrison

Loudermilk part 2. This one hasn't even been played in the show yet, as far as I know, it just gets quoted by one of the characters—and deservingly, because these lyrics hit HARD. (And now I can cross 'liking a new Van Morrison song' off my music bucket list for the year—thanks, Loudermilk!)

10. Lalalala -- Stray Kids

This one has lost most of its appeal after a few weeks of listening, but it was very good noise to keep me sensory-happy during some rough weeks (and that ‘lalalalala’ hook is still great)! We'll see how it ages, I guess!

11. The Fall -- Gregory Alan Isakov

Speaking of Stray Kids, Isakov's lower register in this song is GLORIOUS.

12. Soldier, Poet, King -- The Oh Hellos

Believe it or not, I hadn’t heard of this one before December! It’s so good tho :)

13. What's Love -- Empress Of, MUNA

This sounds like the best parts of nighttime—it’s a little more muted than most synthpop these days, but it manages to stand out with just how ethereal it is! The production really just gets more beautiful with every listen—okay, maybe I just have a thing for vocoders…

14. La isla de Lesbos -- Javiera Mena

I don't really remember listening to this one in the past month? But I'm not mad about it being here—it's a classic in my book, because I can never say no to sparkly house music!

15. Smiley -- Yena, Bibi

An instant shot of energy, every time!! So glad I finally added Yena to my stan list, her music soooo deserves it!

Five-Star Songs This Month:

Ungrateful -- Megan Thee Stallion, Key Glock

Hell -- Sleater-Kinney (i mentioned how excited i was about this album right?? i love the texture of this song i love how it go grrrrr i love the line “hell is just a place that / we can’t seem to live without” !! i have a very good feeling about this one helping me get through the year SCREEEEEE)

BDH - Acústica Versión — Bely Basarte

Certainty -- Big Thief (this is what love is to me btw like i realized this month that i don’t think any other song has captured it better so here we are) (YOU LAY BESIDE ME / SLEEPING ON A PLANE / IN THE FUUUUUTUREEEEEEEE)

Was I Just Another One -- Gregory Alan Isakov (i listened to this allll the time in 2020, but i ended up developing a new appreciation for its atmosphere this month like good god i’m in awe GLOOMY FOLK GLOOMY FOLK IT IS A WASTELAND IT IS IMMACULATE EEEEEE !!)

[abwwia]

[dear-indies]

i’m looking to cast a korean woman who’s 30ish, but i want her to have darker skin instead of the norm in the tags. her father is played by gong yoo and her mother isn’t casted (can be white, korean, black, etc etc etc!). she’s very like, that clean girl aesthetic? simple, old money, eldest daughter syndrome, kinda vibe! not very glam herself bc she’s a surgeon (resources aren’t super necessary bc it’s on discord!) i have adeline rudolph atm but looking for alts. the fc can also be younger, i dont mind aging up by a few years! thank youuuu. and if you know of fcs who aren’t stick thin that would be appreciated as well! also open to models, influencers, singers. 💜 sorry this got so long! thank you!!!

adding on to my ask (korean fem fc/30s): by darker skin i just meant not super pale! but open to anyone who’s mixed 🫶

Kim Gee-yang / Vivian Kim (1986) Korean.

Jin Baek-Nedd (1991) Korean.

also:

Grace Park (1974) Korean - has younger roles/resources!

Jamie Chung (1983) Korean - has younger roles/resources!

Greta Lee (1983) Korean - has younger roles/resources!

Crystal Kay (1986) Korean / African-American - has younger roles/resources!

Samantha Futerman (1987) Korean - has younger roles/resources!

Jihae (1989) Korean.

Alice Lee (1989) Korean.

Michelle Lee (1991) Korean / African-American.

Blair Kim (1994) Korean / African-American.

Andrea Bang (1989) Korean.

Hyolyn (1990) Korean.

Ashley Park (1991) Korean.

Gia Kim (1992) Korean.

Nicole Kang (1993) Korean.

Adeline Rudolph (1995) Korean / White.

Hey sweet anon! I'm sorry I couldn't find more suggestions but I hope this helps!

[sohmiya]

thank you for the tag @quinnorion 💕

what colour is your love? (uquiz & meiker)

maxine: light yellow. your love is the colour of sunrays seeping through curtains, of light glittering on the ocean. your love is a such a joy to have. it brings both peace and excitement.

andi: forest green. your love, though sometimes kept secret, makes others feel safe and at peace. it is the colour of deep, quiet forests and secret paths covered in leaves. it is the colour of growth.

tagging: @wayhavenots @mavbystar @pierceaugust @sussoro + anyone who wants to join <333 (no pressure!!)

[imperiohq]

older (30 - 40) male and female poc suggestions?

Kim Min-Gue , oliver jackson-cohen , oscar isaac , song joong ki , kerem bürsin , kirby howell-baptiste , pedro pascal , gong yoo , gugu mbatha-raw , hannah john-kamen , harry shum jr. , henry golding , jameela jamil , jamie chung , jason mamoa , jd pardo , alisha wainwright , amber stevens-west , andrea bang , alex meraz , angel coulby , angelababy , anna diop , antonia thomas , anthony mackie , anupriya goenka , arjun gupta , ashley madekwe , bálint jaskó , ben levin , berk cankat , burak özçivit , calgar ertugrul , candice patton , carlos valdes , chai hansen , charles michael davis , chris pang , claudia kim , clayton cardenas , constance wu , daniel kaluuya , danai gurira , david castaneda , diane guerrero , dichen lachman , eka darville , elodie yung, gemma chan ,jesse rath , jessica lucas , jessica matten , julia jones , kristin kreuk , lee dong wook , lee min-ho , lesley-ann brandt , lewis tan , laverne cox , lupita nyong'o , manny montana , meaghan rath , michael b jordan , michael trevino , nafessa williams , nathalie emmanuel , nathalie kelley , ni ni , ok taecyeon , rami malek , raymond ablack , ritesh rajan , sen mitsuji , sonoya mizuno , steven r. mcqueen , steven yeun , summer bishil , tessa thompson , trevante rhodes , tuğçe kumral , xin zhilei , yusuf gatewood , zhang xinyu

[awardseason]

10th Annual Make-Up Artists & Hair Stylists Guild Awards — Film Winners

FEATURE-LENGTH MOTION PICTURES

Best Contemporary Make-Up “The Batman” (Naomi Donne, Doone Forsyth, Norma Webb, Jemma Carballo) “Everything Everywhere All At Once” (Michelle Chung, Erin Rosenmann, Dania A. Ridgway) — WINNER “The Menu” (Deborah LaMia Denaver, Mazena Puksto, Donna Cicatelli, Deb Rutherford) “Nope” (Shutchai Tym Buacharern, Jennifer Zide-Essex, Eleanor Sabaduquia, Kato De Stefan) “Spirited” (Monica Huppert, Autumn J. Butler, Vivian Baker)

Best Period and/or Character Make-Up “Amsterdam” (Nana Fischer, Miho Suzuki, Jason Collins) “Babylon” (Heba Thorisdottir, Shaunna Bren Chavez, Jean Black, Mandy Artusato) “Blonde” (Tina Roesler Kerwin, Elena Arroy, Cassie Lyons) “Elvis” (Shane Thomas, Angela Conte) — WINNER “Till” (Denise Tunnell, Janice Tunnell, Ashley Langston)

Best Special Make-Up Effects “The Batman” (Michael Marino, Mike Fontaine, Yoichi Art Sakamoto, Göran Lundström) “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever” (Joel Harlow, Kim Felix) “Elvis” (Mark Coulier, Jason Baird) “Roald Dahl’s Matilda the Musical” (Barrie Gower, Emma Faulkes, Chloe Muton-Phillips) “The Whale” (Adrien Morot, Kathy Tse, Chris Gallaher) — WINNER

Best Contemporary Hair Styling “The Batman” (Zoe Tahir, Melissa Van Tongeran, Paula Price, Andrea Lance Jones) “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever” (Camille Friend, Evelyn Feliciano, Marva Stokes, Victor Paz) — WINNER “Everything Everywhere All At Once” (Anissa E. Salazar, Meghan Heaney, Miki Caporusso) “Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery” (Jeremy Woodhead, Tracey Smith, Leslie D. Bennett) “The Menu” (Adruitha Lee, Monique Hyman, Kate Loftis, Barbara Sanders)

Best Period Hair Styling and/or Character Hair Styling “Amsterdam” (Adruitha Lee, Lori McCoy-Bell, Cassandra L. Russek, Yvette Shelton) “Babylon” (Jaime Leigh McIntosh, Ahou Mofid, Aubrey Marie) “Blonde” (Jaime Leigh McIntosh, Lynnae Duley, Ahou Mofid, Robert Pickens) “Elvis” (Shane Thomas, Louise Coulston) — WINNER “The Woman King” (Louisa Anthony, Jamika Wilson, Plaxedes Kelias, Charity Gwakuka)

[amphtaminedreams]

Currently Obsessing Over, Debrief No.3: All Hail Queen Vivienne Westwood & Here’s to her Eternal Reign

-Vivienne photographed in June 2012-

“Fashion: I really love doing it. It’s really a kind of lifeline to me. It’s recharging my batteries. It’s exciting. I love what we’re doing, and I think the next thing we are doing is the best thing I have ever done. Because it’s totally political.”

-With Chrissie Hynde & Jordan at the SEX boutique in Chelsea, 1976-

-Clockwise L-R: making an appearance on the runway with husband Andreas Kronthaler at the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 2016 Menswear collection, in 1976 with Chrissie Hynde & Jordan, c. 1976, and in 2012 in her studio-

-in attendance at memorial for Vivienne @ Southwark Cathedral, Friday 17th February 2023, centre: Lila & Kate Moss, clockwise L-R: Alexa Chung, Matty Bovan, Christina Hendrix & husband, Helena Bonham Carter, Ellen von Unwerth, Farida Khelfa, Lucinda Chambers, Elle Fanning-

-Anson Boon in attendance at memorial for Vivienne @ Southwark Cathedral, Friday 17th February 2023-

Look, I am far from a royalist but as London Fashion Week draws to a close, the weekend saw a who’s who of the fashion mourn a Queen of the people whose crowning would’ve truly made me reconsider my position. It goes without saying that the impact Vivienne Westwood has had on both her contemporaries and a younger generation of up and coming designers is monumental, but above and beyond that, what made her such an incredible individual was the consistency with which she stuck to her principles over the years and championed a fairer world, free of structural barriers, discrimination and the destructive force of rampant capitalism on the earth. 

-Upper left portion: Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S 2016, & bottom right: Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S 2017, then whole image clockwise L-R: Vivienne Westwood RTW F/W 2010, & RTW F/W 2009-

-Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY collections, Clockwise L-R: Menswear RTW F/W 2020, RTW F/W 2022, RTW Menswear S/S 2018, RTW S/S 2023-

-Undercover collections, clockwise L-R: RTW F/W 2011, RTW F/W 2013, RTW S/S 2004, RTW S/S 2009, RTW S/S 2011-

-Matty Bovan collections,  L-R: RTW F/W 2018, & S/S 2019-

-Ambush Resort 2023-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW, top to bottom: F/W 2007, S/S 2013-

-Undercover collections, L-R: RTW F/W 2019, RTW S/S 2022, RTW F/W 2020-

-Stella McCartney collections, L-R: RTW F/W 2018, RTW F/W 2017, F/W 2020-

-Undercover collections, upper left portion, clockwise L-R: RTW F/W 2003, RTW F/W 2015, RTW S/S 2005, RTW S/S 2007, then whole image clockwise L-R: RTW S/S 2015, RTW S/S 2014, RTW F/W 2014-

She didn’t have to be That Bitch, in an industry which too often actively worked and continues to work against her goals, but she did at risk to her own success, and she made some fucking incredible clothes whilst she was at it.

Vivienne had every capability of being a thorn in the side of the industry figureheads operating business models domineered by overconsumption and yet her legacy will outlive every trend cycle imaginable ten to the dozen, reminding us that above all, principles & passion are the best thing we have if we want to truly make in impact.

-12 Emerging Designers on How Vivienne Westwood Inspired Them, AnOther Magazine, Autumn/Winter 2021 issue-

-”Pirates” collection, 1981: Though by this point Vivienne had already established a name for herself within the industry, namely through the widespread popularity of the Chelsea boutique she opened with partner Malcolm McLaren in 1971 and her work styling the Sex Pistols, whom McLaren managed, it wasn’t until a decade later that she made her runway debut with her “Pirates” collection. And you know what? She was so right for that. These are men who sail the world in pursuit of Jewells, ffs. How historically accurate that statement is, I have no clue; Peter Pan probably isn’t the best frame of reference. All I know is that ruffles and Jewells and big hats and bold patterns are absolutely my cup of tea and all those of us girlies with a preference for maximalism owe Vivienne Westwood a thank you for helping the stiff upper lipped power players of that period realise that.-

-”Britain Must Go Pagan” collection, S/S98 RTW-

-Clockwise L-R: Vivienne Westwood RTW F/W 1993, RTW S/S 1994, RTW F/W 1994, RTW S/S 1997, RTW F/W 1995, RTW S/S 1994-

-Arguably, the early years of Vivienne’s runway residency was characterised by a consistent drive to dissect, explore, and push the boundaries of the fashion of bygone eras through her work in a provocative, tongue in cheek kind of way, but one that ultimately showed her knowledge and love of fashion. Her flirtation with the whimsical, ethereal hallmarks of romantic period dressing and references to the costume-like decadence associated with the nobility and wealth of the post-renaissance world helped to torpedo a giant, jagged hole through the perfectly polished wall high fashion had built around itself to retain its status as an interest reserved for the privileged. 

Vivienne’s growing cultural relevance occurred in the midst of the 90s grunge movement that banished the illusion everything had to be perfectly refined at all times, and championed the gaudy, the over the top, the playful, controversial and performative. This time, counterculture was unruly, broody, and intentionally unyielding in a way that closely harked back to the values of the ‘70s London punk scene where VW had started out, and so it makes sense that interest in her work grew given the position her clothing came to be associated with in this decade

I don’t claim to be enough of a fashion expert to know the complete history of costume piece inspired designers and to be able to say Vivienne was the very first to bring this subversion of the expectation to appear aloof, elegant, and let’s be honest, occasionally boring as fuck, to the runway through her exploration of period clothing but she has to be one of the first to bring such a playfulness to it and her collections at the time certainly helped to reignite the childhood desire that exists in every person interested in fashion to play dress up.- 

-Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 1998, “Les Incroyables” collection-

-Christian Lacroix Haute Couture S/S 1998-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW F/W 1996-

-Christian Lacroix Haute Couture S/S 1999-

-Clockwise L-R: Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S 2013, RTW S/S 2012, RTW S/S 2014-

-Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 1998-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S 1996-

-Clockwise L-R: Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S 2010, RTW F/W 2015, lower right portion: RTW Menswear F/W 2017, RTW F/W 2011, RTW Menswear F/W 2017, & RTW F/W 2011-

-L-R: Vivienne Westwood Bridal Made to Order 2022, Vivienne Westwood Bridal Made to Order 2020.

Marriage:

*Reasons AGAINST: too many to list 

*Reasons FOR: Vivienne Westwood’s bridal collections (and also a big party with all your friends that they feel morally obligated to attend, where you get to pick all the food and cheesy music is socially acceptable)-

-Vivienne Westwood Bridal Made to Order 2021-

-She further developed her brand’s reputation as a disruptor of the status quo in a time which saw young people in the Western world grow tired of the straight laced conservatism of the Thatcher/Reagan (forget Charlie Kelly and Frank Reynolds, these 2 were the OG gruesome twosome) and the tastemakers of the fashion world followed suit, lauding her work. As much as the impact of massive industry players is portrayed as having a trickle down effect (see what I did there) on the trend cycle, designers inevitably draw inspiration from the current social climate whether acknowledged or not and in this way the aesthetics adopted by boots on the ground, the influence of art and pop culture, makes its way back up to the runway where the Anna Wintours of the world have to like it. For people like Vivienne Westwood, Rei Kawakubo (founder of Commes Des Garcons), Ann Demeulemeester, and Yohji Yamamoto, who occupied much of the same avant-garde, anti-establishment scene from the ‘70s onwards with all 3 having been customers at Vivienne’s boutique and setting up shop in London at one point or another, incorporating that disruptive spirit probably felt like a return to their roots as designers.-

-Vivienne Westwood Bridal Made to Order 2019-

-Yohji Yamamoto collections, L-R: RTW S/S 2015, & S/S 2016-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW, top to bottom: F/W 2008, S/S 2012-

-Yohji Yamamoto RTW S/S 2023-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW, top left: S/S 2009, remaining photos: S/S 2011-

-Top to bottom: Ann Demeulemeester RTW F/W 2019, & RTW F/W 2017-

-In this period where anti-fashion established itself as an integral part of what was decidedly “in”-fashion, new roots, which would go on to produce some of today’s boldest designers, buried themselves deep and inevitably soaked up Vivienne and her contemporaries’ celebration of androgyny, experimentation with subversive silhouettes and prints, and embrace of the dark and dramatic to tell stories through their styling which served as the antidote to the immaculate coordination of looks showcased by fashion giants like Chanel. Vivienne collections managed to grasp hold of the psyches of even the most prestigious designers, and the lasting effects were visible in the heavily period themed, almost theatrical collections, the debuts of which broke the expected mould for labels traditionally associated with a sense of refinement and/or glamour. That Donatella Versace, for example, would draw influence from punk aesthetics is unexpected but once you’re aware she’s expressed her admiration for Vivienne Westwood, there are a number of Versace collections over the years where you can’t unsee that inspiration. John Galliano was known to sit front row at her shows! John Galliano. That, baby, is one mighty flex.-

-John Galliano collections, top to bottom: RTW S/S 2018, RTW F/W 1997, RTW S/S 2019-

-Valentino RTW F/W 2005-

-Versace collections, L-R: RTW F/W 2017, RTW F/W 2013, RTW F/W 2018-

-John Galliano RTW F/W 2018-

-Ralph Lauren RTW F./W 2016-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW, upper left portion, clockwise L-R: F/W 2016, “, “, RTW F/W 2016, then whole image, clockwise L-R: RTW S/S 2015, RTW F/W 2012, F/W 2013, & F/W 2012-

-Versace RTW S/S 1994-

-John Galliano RTW S/S 1993- 

-You could argue the prevalence of Westwood gowns amongst the rich and famous is kinda antithetic to its founder’s manifesto but we can’t be delusional and forget it’s a high fashion label we’re talking about and well, a business. Ultimately the craftsmanship and time which goes into original designs means red carpet photos are probs the closest 99% of us are gonna get but I’ll take it. I’m thirsty. Helena Bonham-Carter, one of the many prominent figures in attendance at Vivienne’s funeral, kinda symbolises the dichotomy; as much as her public image is of her as someone who exists outside the boundaries imposed by a privileged, aloof, very airbrushed elite, we are talking a woman with a double-barrelled family name which carries with it the exactly the kind of wealth and lineage you’d expect it to. But at the same time, she is someone who has chosen to break away from the expectations set upon her by this kind of background and do things her own way. Not so much so that her whole mismatched, slightly dishevelled whilst simultaneously very cool outer appearance isn’t made up of expensive, designer subcomponents, but if you’re going to have some brand loyalty, Helena being a Vivienne simp feels correct:

“I have an obscene amount, a sinful amount of her clothes. Decades’ worth. She wouldn’t like it, given she was always telling us to buy less.” Helena recalled buying her first pirate shirt, aged 15, from Westwood’s shop in World’s End “so I could be Adam Ant.” She explained how she once reprimanded a red-carpet journalist who asked why she always wore Westwood, because it was always “the same, same, same.” Bonham Carter replied: “No, no, no…. You have no idea how many ideas and choices have gone into this dress. She is never boring. And the dresses do all the work. All the actresses on this red carpet haven’t eaten for weeks—and I have had a full-fat English breakfast.” Of wearing Westwood she said: “I feel like who I want to be. I feel like a woman…. She has given me my armor to face the world for so many years.” She added: “Thank you for the cutting, the draping that makes your clothes so dynamic and alive, so much so that I wouldn’t be surprised to wake in the night and find them dancing in my closet, alive.”

-Extract from “Vivienne Westwood is Remembered in London” Vogue article, Luke Leith, published 17th February 2013 @ https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/gallery/vivienne-westwood-memorial-

-Helena Bonham Carter in Vivienne Westwood-

-FKA Twigs wearing Vivienne Westwood, photographed for her zine, published May 2019-

-You can’t talk about Vivienne’s impact on street style and its adoption by today's anti-it girl (which in itself has made her kinda the ultimate it-girl in my eyes, lmao) without a section dedicated to FKA Twigs, whose love of the designer is evident in her ethereal take on ‘90s grunge inspired fashion. If anyone doubts the existence of Vivienne’s influence on Twigs’ street style, may I gift you with knowledge that she included an absolutely STUNNNNINGGG feature about her whole COLLECTION of VW corsets in her zine. Money can’t buy you happiness but it can buy you archival designer pieces by the Grand Dame of Punk (no, I’m not talking about Karen from RHoP) and the ability to circumvent a year long waiting list for treatment of your ailments on the NHS sooo I mean…we’re talking substantial quality of life improvements here.-

-FKA Twigs personal style-

-Public figures in Vivienne Westwood over the years, upper left portion, clockwise L-R: Dua Lipa on the red carpet @ the 2021 Brit Awards, Kim Kardashian via Instagram backstage @ the 2019 Emmys, Winnie Harlow on the red carpet @ the 2019 British Fashion Awards, Kim Kardashian photographed in 2019, Kristen Stewart hosting SNL in Vivienne Westwood suit in November 2022, Lashana Lynch on the red carpet @ the No Time to Die premiere in 2021, Jade Thirlwall on the red carpet @ the 2021 Brit Awards, Elle Fanning on the red carpet @ the 2021 Vulture Festival, upper right portion: Bella Hadid’s street style ft. a love of Vivienne Westwood, bottom right portion, clockwise L-R: Dua Lipa on the red carpet @ the 2021 Brit Awards and on stage for the event, Billie Piper @ the 2021 UK Fashion Awards, Thandie Newton on the Cannes Red Carpet in 2018, Rihanna performing @ the 2012 Victoria’s Secret fashion show, Zendaya on the red carpet @ the Art of Elysium gala in 2016, Maude Apatow via Instagram photographed @ the 2022 Emmys afterparty, Alexa Demie @ an event for Tiffany & Co. in 2022, bottom left: Winnie Harlow on the red carpet @ the 2020 Vanity Fair Oscars afterparty-

-Vivienne’s personal style over the years, clockwise L-R: making an end of show appearance in December 2011, photographed c. 1995, @ the V&A museum in London in 1998, with Naomi Campbell at the 1993 Designer of the Year Awards, @ the opening of the Costume Institute’s Anglomania exhibition in 2006, with husband Andreas Kronthaler at Ascot in 1995, photographed by paparazzi c. 2009-

-Vivienne Westwood’s “Portraits” collection, 1991-

-You really can’t talk about the common appeal of Vivienne Westwood and the label’s legacy without an acknowledgement of the irreverence of the Portraits collection, which most likely constitutes the strongest imagery of the brand in most people’s minds. For all that rambling on I did about her challenging fashion conventions, the corset is probably, like, one of the most stereotypically feminine garments out there, and so it seems contradictory that it’s probably the most famous VW piece. That being said, you just have to look at the earliest prominent iteration of the staple showcased in Portraits; the way the shape was utilised flew in the face of all that was conventional and “demure” through its combination with religious iconography, micro skirts and nude illusion cut outs, in the ‘80s ffs, so need I say more about what it is that made it so groundbreaking? It was a moment that was emblematic of the middle finger to the world attitude that Vivienne’s collections are known for, and which makes it such an iconic, and true to brand piece that is still loved, emulated, and collected by a very lucky few today.-

-Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S 2023-

-It’s only half the picture to say Vivienne’s participation in the fashion industry contradicts her personal politics, which completely ignores how much of her fortune has been redistributed through her activism over the years; to advocate for her brand is to advocate for the anti establishment mission she has made an inextricable part of it, which over the past few decades has ranged from her vocal commitment to fighting climate change, her stance on sustainability, her support of Chelsea Manning and Julian Assange, and notably her Ethical Fashion Africa campaign, shots from which feature below.-

-Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood RTW, clockwise L-R: S/S 2008, S/S 2007, S/S 2019, “-

-Andreas & Vivienne at Paris Fashion Week, 2nd October 2021-

-Andreas Kronlather for Vivienne Westwood RTW, top: S/S 2016, bottom L-R: S/S 2018, S/S 2014-

-”, top L-R: RTW S/S 2006, RTW F/W 2014, & bottom: RTW S/S 2023-

Ending with the content Vivienne would most likely find to be closest to her heart is a reflection on the Andreas Kronlather for Vivienne Westwood, surely the purest form of her punk spirit that will go on without her. Undeniably, Vivienne has had no greater influence on anyone than her husband, Andreas, with whom she publicly entrusted the more affordable offshoot of her brand, and whose creative relationship first began when he began working under her wing in the late ‘80s. They were artistic geniuses, revolutionaries, and basically the much more aspirational version of the rockstar bf/gf model bc/gf duo. Above all they were cutie pies<3 

-Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood RTW, clockwise L-R: S/S 2010, “, F/W 2017, & F/W 2015-

-”, L-R: RTW S/S 2017, RTW S/S 2009, RTW F/W 2016-

Though for the majority of the 30+ years they spent collaborating Andreas chose to be a silent contributor, the name change of the red label offshoot to Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood was the clear realisation of his journey in becoming an equal partner and suggests that over time, the direction of influence evolved from the latter over the former to a much more reciprocal force.

-”, L-R: RTW F/W 2012, RTW F/W 2018-

-”, left portion: RTW F/W 2010, top right portion: RTW S/S 2011, bottom right portion L-R: RTW F/W 2013, RTW F/W 2011-

-”, L-R: RTW S/S 2006, RTW S/S 2014-

-”, L-R: RTW F/W 2019, RTW S/S 2015-

 I’m going to get real cheesy here but I have to say it: there is no doubt that whilst he continues to showcase his designs, Vivienne’s presence in the industry will not cease to be felt. Regardless-we’ll miss you anyways, Queen.-

-Vivienne photographed at the end of her RTW F/W 2016 runway presentation, February 2016-

-Vivienne photographed attending premiere screening at Regent Street Cinema, November 2022-

Vivienne Westwood, April 1941-December 2022