#2022 fabric trend

[avithenaftali]

October 28, 2022, 7:11 P.M.

For whatever reason I enjoy thinking about Diana Wynne Jones' writing as a whole and picking out unexpected or resonant trends. For example, some things that comes up often is:

She'll fabricate a world (right down to its cosmology), fill it with memorable characters, set one or two short novels in it... and then never touch it again. On to the next one. Rinse and repeat for her entire career.

The concept of multiple/parallel universes appear half a dozen times in different novels/sequences, but always in completely different ways. The multiple worlds of Chrestomanci function very, very differently from the multiple worlds of The Homeward Bounders, which themselves function so different from the Ayewards/Naywards of Deep Secret, or the walls between the worlds in Dark Lord of Derkholm. More importantly, all these approaches to multiverse explicitly contradict each other. There is no larger DWJ multiverse; there is no way to coherently combine any of them, much less all of them. I love her for this. Every book is its own project. Franchising be damned.

With one exception (which is the Dalemark quartet, oddly enough), none of these worlds are sealed-off secondary worlds. Our own Earth appears in all of them, though usually from the 'wrong' end of the telescope. Meaning, it's stuff like reading Charmed Life and assuming you're reading a magical secondary world fantasy for most of the book... up until the point when Janet is pulled into the story due to Gwendolyn's spell. The reader instantly understands that Janet is from our own world, from the 1970s when the book was written. She never makes it home, either. She never sees her parents again. She's a supporting character who becomes permanently stuck in the world of Chrestomanci, as a casualty of Gwendolyn's spells.

It is interesting, though, how there are almost no sealed-off secondary worlds in DWJ's oeuvre.

There are lots of neat things to say about how DWJ did this, and why she'd do it, and the implications in the storytelling. But tonight I'm thinking mostly about how it can be a moment, narratively, that makes you halt and have to recontextualize all these things you thought you knew (or were assuming) about the nature of the story.

In Ursula Le Guin's The Dispossessed, Urras is obviously the metaphorical capitalistic stand-in planet for our own Earth... up until a moment right near the end, where we realize our own Earth exists in this novel too and is an ecological wasteland due to unchecked climate change.

Urras may be the distorted-mirror, uber-capitalist version of our own world. But it's also a planet with a functional ecosystem. It's a planet where society is careful about maintaining that ecosystem. We're not going to be Urras, says Le Guin. We'll be lucky if we become Urras. To become Urras means we wised up in time to not go extinct.

And suddenly, little subtle moments in the worldbuilding around both Anarres and Urras—their shared attention to their own ecology—come into a different light. All because our own, devastated Earth turns out to be present in the novel too.

And in Howl's Moving Castle, Howl is a magician who fits into the fairy tale landscape of Ingary as naturally as anyone else—until the chapter when he has to go home to retrieve a lost spell, and you realize home is in another world, aka home is our world, aka Howl is fucking Welsh and found his way into Ingary by pure accident. And Ben Sullivan, Ingary's missing royal magician, is no native of Ingary either.

To Sophie, it just means that both magicians travelled to Ingary from the same enigmatic foreign land, which is as strange to her as any spell.

To us readers, it means "oh my god he's Welsh too? Just how much is Wales secretly connected to Ingary? Next thing you'll tell me Ben Sullivan's a rugby player as well—"

[joeys-babe]

Joey B Blurbs: Can’t Help Falling in Love

————————————————————————-

Summary: You surprise Joe when he gets home from practice by putting on your wedding dress from your wedding back in March of 2022.

Warnings: Fluff

Pairing: Joe Burrow x reader

Imagine universe: Into The Mystic

A/N: Joe isn't injured.

————————————————————————-

*December 30th, 2023 - 22 weeks pregnant*

(y/n’s pov)

Joe was currently away at an early morning practice, preparing for the Chief’s game tomorrow.

The team would be getting on a plane for Kansas City tonight, and Zac called an ‘emergency’ practice this morning.

Since Joe was away, I was doing some seriously needed deep cleaning in the house.

Tyson and Miles’s room would have to be last to be cleaned since they wouldn't be up for a while.

I will never take for granted the fact that the terrible twos don't seem to be a thing to the twins. They're closer to three and have remained their happy selves.

The reason I mention this is because when they do wake up, they'll happily help me clean their room without being asked.

My heart warmed when I walked into what will be our baby girl’s nursery once she's born and old enough to be moved out of Joe and I’s room.

The walls were painted a cream color with an accent wall of vintage floral wallpaper.

Joe was the one who approached me with the idea, and I loved it.

Her name had a vintage feel, so her nursery having the same vibe was perfect.

One thing about our baby girl is that she was already 100% a daddy’s girl.

She loved it when Joe talked to my stomach, as she would kick after every sentence that left his mouth.

Joe ate every bit of it up, already taking his girl-dad role very seriously. He was so involved in my pregnancy, making sure to be there for his wife and beloved baby girl.

He just loved her so much.

My thoughts made me smile to myself as I looked around her unfurnished room and absentmindedly rubbed my bump.

Soon, I snapped out of my thoughts and remembered my cleaning.

——

After getting Joe and I’s bedroom and bathroom cleaned, it was time to move onto the closet.

I saved it for last because I knew it was going to be a doozy.

With constant packages of clothing items arriving at the house for Joe’s game-day fits, there was always a huge stack of boxes in here.

Usually, after the stack reaches a certain height, Joe would take them out to the dumpster.

Lately, though, he's fallen behind on his duties, and the stack was huge.

After clearing that out, I started going through my side of the closet, knowing Joe wouldn't exactly be happy if I moved his stuff around.

I knew I'd find some gems, doing a deep clean in my closet, but I didn't expect to find my wedding dress.

It looked just as beautiful as I remembered and it took my breath away.

Joe and I’s wedding back in March of 2022 was an absolute dream. We were so happy, nothing could sour our moods.

We looked back at our wedding photos all of the time, watching the videos of our vows being one of our favorite things.

I remembered a video I'd seen on TikTok last night of a wife putting on her wedding dress to surprise her husband, and I immediately decided to do it.

That is if the baby bump and growing boobs allow this dress to fit me.

It wouldn't necessarily be a prank or the usual trends that I've tried in him, so it would be a good change.

——

A few hours later, Tyson and Miles had been awake for a while, and we all got their room cleaned.

Joe would be home soon because he told me what time practice ended before he left this morning.

That being said, I was now upstairs trying to slip my wedding dress on.

Thankfully, the bodice part of the dress didn't quite reach my belly, so it was perfectly hidden under the skirt. I was a little surprised that my growing chest was able to stay contained under the fabric since I'd had to buy bigger bras since getting pregnant.

I didn't even attempt to try to zip the back of the dress up, though.

Moments later I could hear my phone ringing in the bedroom, and I had to practically waddle my way over there to get it.

It was Joe calling, probably telling me that he was on his way.

“Hey, Joey.” - you

“Hey, Mama. Just wanted to tell you that I'm leaving practice right now. I should be home in a bit.” - Joe

“Oh okay, how was practice?” - you

“As good as practice can be, I guess.” - Joe chuckled

I laughed along with him before he started talking again.

“How’s your day been? The boys and baby girl doing good?” - Joe

“We’re perfect. Just miss you. Princess has been a little restless today, probably wanting to talk to her daddy.” - you

“I miss you guys too, Imma be home soon. I promise to be with you till I have to leave tonight.” - Joe

“Okay. I love you, Joe. Be safe.” - you

“I will be. I love you too, so much. See you soon, my love.” - Joe

“See you soon. Bye.” - you

“Bye, baby.” - Joe hung up

Now I just have to wait.

——

I sat on the couch to the best of my ability, waiting for Joe to get home when I heard the garage door opening.

Tyson and Miles jumped off of the couch to go greet their dad, and soon I could hear that deep voice coming from the mud room.

“Where's your momma at?” - Joe

“Couch.” - Miles

A few moments later Joe’s heavy footsteps got louder and his tall frame was in my view.

His eyes lit up, and he stopped in his tracks when he saw me. Joe’s mouth dropped open into a taken-aback huge grin.

“Baby… woah. You look... woah.” - Joe

I stood up and walked closer to him, his eyes never once leaving me.

“y/n, you look so beautiful. I don't even know what to say.” - Joe

Standing on my tiptoes to place a kiss on his lips, Joe wrapped his arms around my waist.

“Where’d your bump go?” - Joe laughed

I turned to the side and flattened my hands around it, causing Joe to laugh and reach for it.

Joe rubbed over my bump for a second before pulling his hand back to take in everything.

“I’m not even gonna lie though, I will need your help taking this thing off.” - you

“Wouldn't be the first time.” - Joe smirked

“Joseph Lee!” - you playfully hit his arm

“I’m not lying though!” - Joe

——

Later, after Joe helped me out of my dress, he gave me something that he had brought home but forgot to give me because he got distracted by me in my dress.

It was some Mexican food that he had picked up pm his way home from practice since I had told him this morning that I was craving it.

Now, we were sitting on the couch together as I ate.

“Thank you for this.” - you took a bite of your chimichanga

“You’re so welcome, Mama.” - Joe kissed your cheek

A few seconds of silence went by as Joe stole a bite of my chimichanga.

“Did my wedding dress look good on me still? After having twins and currently being pregnant, I don't even want to know how different it looks on me.” - you

Out of the corner of my eye, I saw Joe giving me a stank face, and I couldn't help but laugh when I turned my head to face him.

“What’s that look for?” - you laughed

“You’re fucking with me, right? Like you're joking?” - Joe

“No?” - you

“y/n. No matter how many changes your body has gone through you are as beautiful as the girl I dated in high school, all through college, and the girl I said I do to. Wanna know why?” - Joe

“Why?” - you

“Because you're the same girl you were before you had our babies. And to be completely honest with you, those changes make you even more gorgeous than before. To me, you don't have any imperfections because I love every part of your body. Those little stretch marks you complain about? They are a reminder of your body growing to accommodate your babies. Your belly getting bigger? That's home to our princess. I say all that to say this. y/n you are the most beautiful woman on this planet, and I love you so much.” - Joe

Joe wiped the tears that were dripping down my cheeks. They were happy tears time ten.

“I didn't mean to make you cry on your chimichanga.” - Joe

I laughed and leaned into his touch, savoring the feel of his skin against mine.

“They're happy tears, Joe, and thank you for the pep talk… I needed that.” - you

“I know you did, baby. Now finish your food, Imma talk to the baby.” - Joe leaned down and looked at you, asking for permission to lift your shirt

“Go ahead.” - you grinned

What would I do without him?

————————————————————————-

Authors note: more of an imagine than a blurb but whatevs

Request for this fic;

Hope you enjoyed! 💕

[thelibraryghost]

A Young Person's Introduction to Late 19th-Century Western Fashion

hello fellow youths

General information Banner, Bernadette. "Exposing Victorian Influencers Who 'Facetuned' Their Photos. (Photo Manipulation was EVERYWHERE)." YouTube. July 17, 2021. English Heritage. "Fashion Through History: Episode 1 – Victorians." YouTube. February 9, 2023. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "100 Years of Fashion // The Fashionable Plus Size Silhouette from 1820-1910." YouTube. June 5, 2021. Victoria and Albert Museum. "100 Years of Fashionable Womenswear: 1830s – 1930s | V&A." YouTube. July 18, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Victorian Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. March 19, 2019.

Accessories Banner, Bernadette. ""Afro-Victorian": Bringing Historical Black Women's Dress into the 21st Century w Cheyney McKnight." YouTube. October 20, 2021. Cox, Abby. "A Fashion Historian Explains the History of the Handbag." YouTube. January 26, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dangerous Things in Victorian Pockets : Mens Pocket History." YouTube. March 2, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Disgusting and Creepy Victorian Fashion Trends." YouTube. October 17, 2018.

Bustles and hoopskirts Donner, Morgan. "Weirdest Victorian Invention: The Bustle-Chair (and we made one)." YouTube. November 20, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "100 Years of Underwear // The Changing Plus Size Shape from Regency to Victorian to Edwardian." YouTube. May 1, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "All About Bustles! A Deep Dive into 1870s Fashions." YouTube. December 26, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "Why were Victorian Hips Controversial?" YouTube. September 12, 2021.

Cosmetics Birchwood, Vasi. "1800s Makeup Is Not What You Think." YouTube. July 21, 2023. English Heritage. "Queen Victoria Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth." YouTube. May 20, 2019. Zebrowska, Karolina. "I Used Only Victorian Cosmetics For a Week." YouTube. July 26, 2023.

Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Silk Spontaneously Combust in the Victorian Era?" YouTube. August 8, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth About Arsenic in the Victorian Era." YouTube. January 24, 2021.

Gowns Bullat, Samantha. "Dress Historian Analyzes Victorian Mourning Clothing of the Mid-19th Century." YouTube. March 14, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "All About 1860's Fashion // What did Civil War-era fashion look like?" YouTube. November 12, 2022. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "How did fashion evolve from 1850-1859? // 1850's Fashion Deep Dive." YouTube. October 1, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Victorian Fast Fashion? The Truth about the History of Disposable Clothing." YouTube. February 6, 2022. SnappyDragon. "Were the Pre-Raphaelites painting accurate medieval dress . . . or Victorian fairtytalecore?" YouTube. April 26, 2024. Zebrowska, Karolina. "19th Century Fashion - How To Tell Different Decades Apart?" YouTube. November 17, 2017.

Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "Following a Victorian Home Made Hair Care Routine (1889)." YouTube. September 11, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in an 1888 Daisy Costume // Easy Bustle-Era Hair Tutorial." YouTube. November 13, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the 1870s & 1874 Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. February 23, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "Why did Victorian Women Cut their Hair Short?" YouTube. December 18, 2022. Laundry and housekeeping English Heritage. "A Tour of the Laundry - The Victorian Way." YouTube. September 6, 2019. English Heritage. "How to Wash Up - The Victorian Way." YouTube. March 18, 2021. English Heritage. "Laying the Table at Christmas – The Victorian Way." YouTube. December 14, 2022. Walkley, Christina, and Vanda Foster. Crinolines and Crimping Irons: Victorian Clothes: How They Were Cleaned and Cared for. Peter Owen Limited: London, 1978.

Outerwear and working wear Birchwood, Vasi. "What Irish Working Women Wore in the Late 19th Century | I Made the Clothing of My Irish Ancestors." YouTube. June 23, 2023. English Heritage. "The Real Mrs Crocombe | Part Four: A Victorian Cook's Outfit." YouTube. July 5, 2018. Stowell, Lauren. "It's Hot: Let's Look At Some Bathing Suits." American Duchess. August 18, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "The 1851 Women's Pants That Made The Victorians Go Crazy." YouTube. March 2, 2020.

Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "100 years of Antique Boots." YouTube. February 10, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "How to Make Regency & Victorian Shoes: Beginner Shoemaking." YouTube. June 27, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021.

Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "I Wore a (Medical) Corset for 5 Years. How do Victorian Corsets Compare?" YouTube. November 7, 2020. Banner, Bernadette. "Making Some Frilly Victorian Underwear || 1890s Combinations." YouTube. February 9, 2019. Birchwood, Vasi. "What Victorians Wore to Bed." YouTube. May 5, 2023. Cox, Abby. "I made weird Victorian underwear (it's a knit onesie) & a pretty 1890s corset || historical sewing." YouTube. March 21, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "How 8 Different Historical Corsets Affect the Same Plus Size Body." YouTube. December 12, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "100 Years of Corset History: How 8 Corsets affect the same body." YouTube. November 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "How Did Victorian Ladies Stay Warm in Winter? || THE EXPERIMENT." YouTube. January 22, 2021. Zebrowska, Karolina. "How Did Victorian Women Deal With Their Periods?" YouTube. October 17, 2019.

[mariacallous]

As Moldova hurtles toward critical elections on Sunday, the stakes couldn’t be higher. Malicious actors, bankrolled by foreign sources, are working to sway the country’s public. And their target? President Maia Sandu — fighting not only for reelection but for her country’s future as a European democracy.

 As Moldova’s first female president, Sandu’s candidacy has become ground zero for a flurry of gendered disinformation attacks, all designed to undermine her leadership and derail the nation’s EU membership referendum, which coincides with the election.

This is no ordinary election. It’s an all-out assault on Moldova’s sovereignty, and at the heart of the battle lies one simple truth: Whoever controls the narrative determines Moldova’s future.

In a crowded field of 10 candidates, Sandu’s still expected to win the first round, despite being buffeted by efforts to weaken and discredit her and the women serving in her administration. These attacks are gendered, insidious and relentless, looking to exploit traditional gender norms in a country where 97 percent of the population believes women should be “cherished and protected by men.”

But this isn’t about traditional values — it’s about manipulating them to maintain Russia’s grip on Moldova.

Disinformation targeting female leaders isn’t just a women’s issue. It’s a democracy issue; it’s a human rights issue; and in the digital age, it’s also a matter of national security. These weaponized lies are meant to fracture the foundations of participatory governance and erode trust in democracy.

Our organization, #ShePersisted, has been tracking these toxic trends since 2022, identifying common gendered narratives aimed at women in politics across major digital platforms in countries like Italy, Hungary and Ukraine. Now, it’s Moldova that’s become the latest battleground in Russia’s destabilization playbook.

The parallels to the U.S. are striking here. Much like Vice President Kamala Harris, who has similarly been the target of disinformation campaigns, Sandu’s candidacy has been a lightning rod for misogyny cloaked in political rhetoric. And just as we’ve seen false claims about Harris’s identity and qualifications, Moldova’s social media platforms are awash with deepfake videos and conspiracy theories aimed at the sitting president.

Both women have dealt with an onslaught of digital attacks designed to weaken the public’s trust in their leadership — attacks that are gendered, racist and xenophobic — and it’s no accident these narratives spread so easily. Social media algorithms reward the most divisive content. For the Kremlin, manipulating online discourse by gaming algorithms is as easy as shooting fish in a barrel, all thanks to the oligarchs of tech that foster this environment, where digital distortions flourish in the name of keeping users hooked and advertisers paying.

In Moldova in particular, the malign actors are explicitly pro-Russian, using inauthentic and coordinated behavior to seed and amplify their attacks. And the campaigns are part of a broader strategy to destabilize the country, oust pro-European Sandu and drag Moldova back into Russia’s orbit.

The Kremlin’s use of deepfakes and false narratives — claiming Ukrainian F-16s will soon land on Moldovan soil and fabricating stories about compulsory EU-mandated “sexual education” — mirrors the chaos it tried to sow in the 2016 U.S. election. Its methods, however, have become more sophisticated. According to a joint statement by the U.S., Canada, and the U.K., Russia is now actively using “disinformation, criminal and covert activities, and corruption to undermine sovereignty and democratic processes” in the upcoming Moldovan elections.

Despite the red alert, though, it’s still largely U.S.-based digital media companies that are acting as modern-day conflict profiteers.

Earlier this year, #ShePersisted combined social listening with forensic data analytics to understand the toxicity directed at women leaders in Moldova. The results? A chilling glimpse into the future of global disinformation campaigns.

From deepfakes of Sandu resigning while wearing a hijab to offers of bribes for voters to reject Moldova’s EU integration, the manipulation is as multifaceted as it is dangerous.

In one case, exiled oligarch and opposition leader Ilan Shor — widely seen as “Moscow’s man in Moldova” — used Facebook to run hundreds of ads that were viewed 155 million times. And the fact that he could do this while not, in fact, being in Moldova is a testament to the power online infrastructure afforded him, as Meta has repeatedly failed to track and remove these coordinated campaigns.

But the threats aren’t confined to political manipulation. Human traffickers and scam artists are leveraging these same platforms to victimize Moldovans too. In a country where 80 percent of the population is deeply concerned about human trafficking, social media platforms have become the primary tool for traffickers, targeting vulnerable women and girls.

And what has Meta done? Almost nothing. Regardless of clear abuse, social media giants continue to prioritize profits over safety, allowing both gendered disinformation and criminal exploitation to thrive.

For Moldova, the road ahead is now fraught with peril— it’s a path the U.S. knows all too well. And as Sandu prepares for a tight election, the parallels between the challenges faced by women leaders worldwide are impossible to ignore.

Whether it’s Harris or Sandu, gendered disinformation is among the most powerful tools bad actors use to erode democratic progress around the world today. And if social media platforms don’t step up to enforce their own rules — removing posts inciting violence, disabling accounts that spread gendered falsehoods and curtailing the amplification of disinformation — they’ll continue to be complicit in corrosion of democracy.

Moldova’s election isn’t just a fight for one woman’s political future, it’s a fight for the future of democracy itself. Like any good fight, it requires action — in this case, both online and off. And if we fail to address the weaponization of gendered disinformation now, the next battlefield could be much nearer to home.

[treemaidengeek]

you've probably seen this zigzag trim called ricrac/ rick rack, especially if you do craft supply thrifting or work with vintage materials (or grew up between the 1950s & 1980s).

(image from a 2022-23 article touting a rick rack revival)

✨️🧵🪡 Did you know rick rack was invented in the 1860s? 🧵🪡✨️

First known as “waved crochet braid” (catchy huh?), rick rack first appeared in the 1860’s but didn’t take on its modern form or name until around 1880. During the 1890’s rick rack sewing trim was imported for use by American sewists as a decorative edging for dresses, aprons, and lingerie. It was also incorporated into lace and then used to decorate curtains, bedding, and other home linens.

After a brief slump in popularity, rick rack ribbon once again came into vogue during the 1910’s when American manufacturers began to produce it. One of these was William E. Wright & Sons, which was founded in Massachusetts in 1897.

Cotton rick rack was in high demand from the 1930’s through the 1950’s when home sewists were upcycling cotton sacks used to pack commodities such as flour, cornmeal, and livestock feed to make dish towels, aprons, and clothing for their families. Wrights rick rack was prized because it was durable; it would tolerate rigorous laundering. The many choices of Wrights rick rack colors complimented the bright flour sack prints. Adding a bit of rick rack helped alleviate the stigma of having to use the feed sack fabric that was available.

After another lull during the 1960’s, rick rack experienced a resurgence of popularity during the 1970’s thanks to Laura Ingalls’ influence. But rick rack hasn’t ever really gone out of style, and it is available in a rainbow of currently popular colors.

(Missouri Star Quilt Co. on Wright's Rick Rack)

more interesting details on early-20th-C history, from Wikipedia...

During the 1910s, rickrack experienced a resurgence in popularity, and American manufacturers began producing rickrack to supply to the domestic market. Among other uses, this rickrack was incorporated into crocheted lace. Books of designs, such as Nufashond Rick Rack Book, helped to popularize the craft.

In rural America in the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s, rickrack was used to decorate feed sack dresses. These dresses were worn as everyday attire, and were constructed from the large cotton bags that flour, chicken feed, and other goods were shipped in. Since the food had to be shipped in fabric bags anyway, the flour mills competed with each other by using attractive, colorful fabrics that the buyer could either resell or upcycle into dresses, aprons, nightgowns, dishtowels, and other clothing and household items. Adding trim like rickrack was a way to reduce the stigma around needing to use whatever fabric was available, rather than buying it from a store.

I fell down this rabbit hole when I saw Anna wearing this hat in the early 1920s of Downton Abbey s3:

though on closer examination I see that her hatband accent is not actually ricrac, but rather velvet ribbon woven into a ricrac-style zizag pattern. given Downton's notorious attention to historical set & costume detail, & ricrac's contemporary popularity, I wonder if more "fine family" types & their staff picked up the visual trend in higher quality materials. Very cool!

[berkeleybeautyfashion]

Wear the History

Chinese calligraphy, not just for paper anymore, has been reborn on fabric. It’s not just a trend, it’s Eastern nostalgia.

Image sources: Junya Watanabe Spring 2022 Yohji Yamamoto SS 2002

[alexgadart]

analysis of in compliance of community guidelines

Hello, here is a short analysis of my painting for those who requested it. Hope this is to your liking and please let me know if you have any feedback, as a wrote this pretty quickly

In Compliance With Community Guidelines (2022) is first and foremost a reflection on the current political climate regarding trans, non-binary, gender non-conforming and intersex identities in the global north. It is a direct outcry against the unjust policing of our bodies and active effort to deny us of our bodily autonomy. The main thesis of this work is just that, a critique of the hundreds of anti-LGBTQIA+ policies and legislations that have been put into law in since the beginning of the pandemic, feeding into the narrative that non-cis bodies, bodies that do not conform to a heteronormative and eurocentric binary standard, are inherently sexual in nature. The portrayal of trans people as scapegoat boogeyman has led to an increase in the already present issue of censorship of queer and trans identities, most notably in the ever-so-sanitised and advertiser friendly online space. In our social age, this leads to a surge in completely safe-for-work content and users being flagged, reported, taken down or even banned, an issue that disproportionately affects trans feminine individuals (though this piece depicts the artist, a transmasculine person). 

In terms of technique, the piece consists of a painting, a quilt, and some ornate embroidering. Squares of white fabric were first hand printed into their respective colours by screen printing on it using the quadricromia (CMYK) printing process. They were then cut to size and sewn together in order to build the quilt, which was hemmed and then attached to canvas with a sewing machine. The canvas was stretched out on a frame, prepped and then painted on around the quilt. Embroidered scars were added at the end to serve as detail. 

Moreover, this piece serves as a challenge against the current art trends leaning strongly towards digital mediums and techniques such as digital art, 3D modelling and to an extent, NFTs and AI art. On one hand, the piece was created using only traditional mediums, a blend of painting, traditional printmaking and textile techniques. These methods of artistic expression have been used for centuries by artists, yet are slowly fading from the mainstream. As such, In Compliance With Community Guidelines serves as a reminder of their value and relevance of such techniques in an increasingly digital art market. The painting style is purposefully appropriative of said digital aesthetic and so is the use of pixelation within the quilt. Furthermore, the colour palette alludes to the vivid screen-like experience of a digital drawing. It was in fact inspired by the RGB colour model used by screens to emulate an array of colours. 

On another hand, the specific use of quilting as a technique was done in a way to specifically highlight forms of art that were deemed irrelevant and reduced to the title of crafts by the sole reason of being historically done by women. The same can be said about the embroidered scars on the top of the painting. The use of textile is in reference to the act of mending, creating anew: not only transforming oneself into a desired form, but also reflecting the mark, the scar that is left behind. 

Lastly, the usage of trans bodies as artistic nudity reflects the artist’s ongoing statement on the massive lack of  representation of trans identities and corporeality in art history. The body depicted is done in a way to directly reference famous nude art, which historically almost exclusively portray white cisgender women; if diverging from that norm, then used as fetish to the coloniser gaze. 

Notes: 1- trans is used as an umbrella term in this essay in order to abridge the whole thing

2- CMYK =cyan magenta yellow black colour model used in printing

3-RGB = red green blue colour model used in screens/light specific mediums

[the-garbanzo-annex-jr]

by David Litman

CNN has a shaky relationship with polling data, as CAMERA has documented previously. In a previous, admittedly more egregious case, CNN’s Christiane Amanpour appears to have entirely fabricated the existence of polling data that fit her preferred narrative. On July 14, however, CNN’s Abeer Salman took a slightly different track by using existing polling data, but only some of it.

In an article titled “Palestinian leader calls on world to ‘protect us,’ and his people respond with bitter laughter,” Salman reports on the declining popularity of Palestinian Authority president Mahmoud Abbas. To her credit, this is a story that needs to be told.

But Salman, who has a history of slanted coverage (and even uncritically publishing an antisemitic cartoon), doesn’t end there. She portrays the story as one in which Palestinians are frustrated that Abbas is not “protecting” them from “increasing Israeli settler violence and frequent, deadly Israeli military incursions…”

In doing so, Salman shifts the story from one of growing Palestinian extremism and violence into one of Palestinian victimhood. The narrative portrays the situation as one in which Palestinians are mocking Abbas’ “calls for peaceful resistance” (a dubious claim itself) not because they are increasingly supportive of violence against Israelis, but because they are victims of Israeli violence.

But the data, including the polling data from Salman’s own source, works against her narrative.

The CNN reporter cites a Palestinian Center for Policy and Survey Research (PCPSR) poll, pointing out that “71% were dissatisfied” with Abbas as president and “74% demanded that he resign.”

However, Salman leaves out the other side of the story from those PCPSR polls. As Abbas’ popularity has declined, two other indicators have taken notable and contemporaneous turns: (1) support for the two-state solution has declined; and (2) support for “armed confrontations and intifada” has risen.

Tracking all three questions since March 2015, we see the following trend:

Source: Palestinian Center for Policy and Survey Research

Shortly after satisfaction with Abbas began dramatically declining (from 37% in 2020 to 32% in 2021, 23% in 2022, and 19% in 2023), support for armed confrontations and intifada” began sharply increasing (from 43% in 2021 to 52% in 2022 and 58% in 2023). Equally important to note is that support for a two-state solution has simultaneously declined in a similarly dramatic fashion (from 40% in 2022 to 27% in 2023).

That is, the story isn’t just one of declining popularity for Abbas. It’s one of greater support for violence and for rejection of living peacefully, side by side with Israel.

While one must always be cautious of reading too much into polling data, as a recent CAMERA study showed, around the same time that polling data began showing these trends, the level of Palestinian violence dramatically surged, jumping from 1,248 attacks in 2020 to 2,063 in 2021 and 2,674 in 2022. And while UN data suggests violence by Israeli settlers has also increased, the data shows quite clearly that settler violence grew more slowly and remains at levels dramatically lower than Palestinian violence, with 358 incidents in 2020, 496 incidents in 2021, and 849 incidents in 2022.

This preempts the suggestion that the growth in support for violence among Palestinians was a response to growing Israeli violence, given that the data shows the surge in violence has been overwhelmingly driven by the Palestinian side.

One other polling point left out: what Palestinians prefer over “peaceful resistance.” While Salman states that many Palestinians mock calls for “peaceful resistance,” she leaves out what the polls show they prefer: “armed struggle.” While the polling question has not been consistently asked over the same period by PCPSR, the March 2023 poll showed Palestinians chose “armed struggle” (54%) over “popular resistance” (21%) as the “most effective” method to end the conflict and achieve statehood (only 18% chose “negotiations”).

This information exposes Salman’s narrative as rather superficial and misleading in its portrayal of the larger context. While she is correct in noting Abbas’ decline in popularity, a story which deserves far more attention than it has gotten in Western media, her misleading narrative leaves works to distort the other highly relevant trends shaping Palestinian societal views.

[fuckdamn]

ok this may only be interesting to me but this is how the top image results for “y2k” changed from 2015 to 2022. it’s kinda fun to witness a term get recontextualized in real time, watching it go from:

pretty much only meaning “the bug and/or doomsday event that people were anticipating would disrupt computer operations on 1/1/2000”

to meaning that, but also being a nostalgic way to refer to “the era +/- about 3 years from 2000”

to meaning both of those but also pretty notably a fashion trend emulating said era

to predominantly invoking the fashion trend, which despite its name incorporates some elements that are entirely a fabrication of the 2020s, and which has sort of expanded the timeframe considered “y2k” to at least the mid 2000s

[trevorendeavors]

October 15 - November 19, 2022. Basically I thought, "What if Hexsquad but in skirts?" and this happened. Oh yeah and the brushes used to paint the patterns on the skirts are all my own brushes/textures! So here's the idea behind each of their skirts:

Willow: layered skirt, basically a living couch.

Gus: literally a chopped shower curtain.

Hunter: He's not used to comfortable clothing so Willow recommended a maxi skirt to him and well now this has no impact on his gender whatsoever now does it? Btw I drew this before transfemme Hunter was trending(?) so yeah. I prefer transmasc Hunter but I vibe with a lot of the femme posts too

Luz: The top is inspired by Dominican dresses: the bottom is kind of supposed to be Luz's homemade patchwork of rejected pieces of fabric and patches come together to make this.

Amity: Mini holographic skirt and ribbon. Inspired by my IRL friend's pastel goth vibes.

Vee: The bubble skirt she's wearing is made of her own scales. Also she's looking at a particularly good-looking enby standing just offscreen.

[fouryearsofshades]

Hi, I have a few questions — are there any new trends in the hanfu movement you’re fond of/don’t like? Why or why not?

Is there a website out there that complies a list of the most popular and active hanfu taobao shops? Or even just a “top XX hanfu taobao shops of 20XX”? A lot of my favs aren’t available or the shops have closed so i don’t know where to really look anymore haha

Hello~ Thanks for the ask.

Ok, to be frank, I am not really following the fashion closely nowadays because I am neither on little red book nor douyin. I followed a few bots on weibo but they are generally only reblog the more "authentic Han" style products. For example my friend told me that heziqun was very hot in 2022 and she received a lot of requests but I maybe saw 2 or 3 heziquns on my dash for the whole year.

汉服资讯 summarizes top ten shops of the month/year but it is a paid service (but you can google the title and see what will come out). In December 2022, the top 10 hanfu shops are:

十三余

织造司

重回汉唐

七月夕

钟灵记

池夏

游园惊梦

织羽集

远山乔

乌扣旗舰店 （specialize in children hanfu）

There is also an official account on wechat called 汉服安莉 that can be used to check if the shop is authentic.

New trend I like: pockets on mamianqun! They usually couldn't hold anything heavier than a card because it will mess with the smoothness of the pleats (especially in skirts made with lighter fabric) but one can put their hands in it and that is enough for me.

Dislike stuff below (basically just rants):

New trend that I really dislike: The weird "xiyu" (western territories) or Tibetan style or whichever minorities style. I don't know how popular they actually are as I only see them on my dash when people are complaining about them. I am not familiar with Tibetan culture so those often just looked like cheap knockoff of Tibetan robes (because they are), but there are people who write analyses about why some of those patterns are offensive when they were used that way. IDK how should I feel that hanfu is not exotic enough for consumers that some designers thought they need to include those elements.

The other things are just more of a personal tastes... Also they are older than one year so possibly not new trend per se, like fake peals tassel on skirts. I just think they don't look flattening on people not as flat as paper because they will not hang down smoothly. It is just too messy for me.

[thelibraryghost]

A Young Person's Introduction to Early 20th-Century Western Fashion

am i hip with the kids yet

General information Dotschkal, Janna. "1920's." FOUND. October 21, 2016. English Heritage. "Fashion Through History: Episode 3 – 1930s." YouTube. April 16, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Standardized Sizes in Womens Fashion and Why They FAILED." YouTube. May 16, 2021. Vintagebursche. "100 Years of Classic Menswear - and what we can learn from each decade." YouTube. February 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. May 20, 2018.

Accessories Cox, Abby. "Flappers, Y2K, & Capitalism are Why Women "Don't" Have Pockets." YouTube. January 12, 2023. Cox, Abby. "The Disappointing Truth On Why We Don't Wear Hats Anymore..." YouTube. December 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of the Iconic Cloche Hat: Making 1920s Fashion." YouTube. September 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "When Hats were Illegal: Sewing a Goth Edwardian Hat." YouTube. February 21, 2021. Sheehan, Sarah. "Neo-Egyptomania." PatternVault. December 31, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Did We Stop Wearing Hats?" YouTube. April 28, 2020.

Cosmetics Banner, Bernadette. "Making and Testing a Victorian Skincare Routine." YouTube. April 8, 2023. English Heritage. "1930s Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth." YouTube. December 18, 2018. Holland, Evangeline. "On How to Be Lovely." Edwardian Promenade. April 15, 2010. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023.

Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Wearing Overalls to Boycott Fashion Greedflation? Weird History of 1920." YouTube. March 16, 2024.

Gowns and formal wear Banner, Bernadette. "I Redesigned Mary Poppins' Jolly Holiday Dress Based on REAL Edwardian Lingerie Gowns." YouTube. February 20, 2021. Banner, Bernadette. "I Remade Mary Poppins’ Dress to be Actually Edwardian." YouTube. July 9, 2022. Cox, Abby. "Alexander McQueen & the Patriarchy Problem in Modern Fashion." YouTube. October 20, 2023. Cox, Abby. "What Makes a Gown Haute Couture (like House of Worth) in Victorian and Edwardian Eras?" YouTube. September 19, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "An Edwardian Woman's Fashion Evolution." YouTube. June 4, 2022. Oakes, Leimomi. "Terminology: what is a lingerie dress or lingerie frock? (and blouse, and skirt)." The Dreamstress. July 21, 2018. Rudolph, Nicole. "Stop Idolizing Coco Chanel: a shocking history of theft." YouTube. January 13, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth about the Fringed Flapper: Making 1920s Evening Dresses." YouTube. November 6, 2022. Vintagebursche. "1920s Theme Party - How to dress." YouTube. December 9, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Encyclopedia, Pt 1: Daywear." YouTube. November 27, 2019.

Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "I Tried Following a Real Edwardian Hair Care Routine." YouTube. May 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the Edwardian Era / Gibson Girl Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. June 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Titanic-era Hair Tutorial // Getting Dressed in the 1910's." YouTube.September 4, 2020. SnappyDragon. "Historical hair myths debunked : How often should you wash your hair—daily shampoo or no shampoo?" YouTube. August 12, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Weird Edwardian Beauty Tips." YouTube. February 11, 2017.

Laundry and starching Banner, Bernadette. "Ok but how did the Edwardians WASH these dresses?" YouTube. August 3, 2022.

Outerwear Cox, Abby. "Athleisure: Destroying Fashion & the Environment." YouTube. January 18, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "150 years of Masc Women causing a Moral Panic." YouTube. June 17, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "SPRING/SUMMER FASHION TRENDS REVIEW but it's 1936 (ft. original fabric samples!)." YouTube. April 22, 2022.

Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "I Made Witchy Edwardian Shoes by Hand!" YouTube. March 14, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Making 100 year old Comfy Slippers: Free Pattern!" YouTube. December 30, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The True History of Stiletto Heels : the battle between Ferragamo and Dior." YouTube. August 26, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Is No One Talking About 1930s Shoes?" YouTube. September 15, 2020.

Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "1903 Patented Bustle Pad Reconstruction." YouTube. June 8, 2019. Banner, Bernadette. "Achieving That Classic Edwardian Shape: Reconstructing a 1902 Bust Bodice." YouTube. April 16, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "So What are Guimpes Anyway? // Examining Antique Edwardian Guimpes." YouTube. August 21, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "They Wore Corsets in the 1920's?!" YouTube. January 29, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Brassieres End the Corset?" YouTube. February 28, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907." YouTube. November 1, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "How Flappers got their Figure: the 1920s Silhouette." YouTube. July 10, 2022. SnappyDragon. "How pin-up photos fooled dress history : the making and marketing of lingerie pictures." YouTube. April 1, 2023.

[mariacallous]

In 2023, the fast-fashion giant Shein was everywhere. Crisscrossing the globe, airplanes ferried small packages of its ultra-cheap clothing from thousands of suppliers to tens of millions of customer mailboxes in 150 countries. Influencers’ “#sheinhaul” videos advertised the company’s trendy styles on social media, garnering billions of views.

At every step, data was created, collected, and analyzed. To manage all this information, the fast fashion industry has begun embracing emerging AI technologies. Shein uses proprietary machine-learning applications — essentially, pattern-identification algorithms — to measure customer preferences in real time and predict demand, which it then services with an ultra-fast supply chain.

As AI makes the business of churning out affordable, on-trend clothing faster than ever, Shein is among the brands under increasing pressure to become more sustainable, too. The company has pledged to reduce its carbon dioxide emissions by 25 percent by 2030 and achieve net-zero emissions no later than 2050.

But climate advocates and researchers say the company’s lightning-fast manufacturing practices and online-only business model are inherently emissions-heavy — and that the use of AI software to catalyze these operations could be cranking up its emissions. Those concerns were amplified by Shein’s third annual sustainability report, released late last month, which showed the company nearly doubled its carbon dioxide emissions between 2022 and 2023.

“AI enables fast fashion to become the ultra-fast fashion industry, Shein and Temu being the fore-leaders of this,” said Sage Lenier, the executive director of Sustainable and Just Future, a climate nonprofit. “They quite literally could not exist without AI.” (Temu is a rapidly rising ecommerce titan, with a marketplace of goods that rival Shein’s in variety, price, and sales.)

In the 12 years since Shein was founded, it has become known for its uniquely prolific manufacturing, which reportedly generated over $30 billion of revenue for the company in 2023. Although estimates vary, a new Shein design may take as little as 10 days to become a garment, and up to 10,000 items are added to the site each day. The company reportedly offers as many as 600,000 items for sale at any given time with an average price tag of roughly $10. (Shein declined to confirm or deny these reported numbers.) One market analysis found that 44 percent of Gen Zers in the United States buy at least one item from Shein every month.

That scale translates into massive environmental impacts. According to the company’s sustainability report, Shein emitted 16.7 million total metric tons of carbon dioxide in 2023 — more than what four coal power plants spew out in a year. The company has also come under fire for textile waste, high levels of microplastic pollution, and exploitative labor practices. According to the report, polyester — a synthetic textile known for shedding microplastics into the environment — makes up 76 percent of its total fabrics, and only 6 percent of that polyester is recycled.

And a recent investigation found that factory workers at Shein suppliers regularly work 75-hour weeks, over a year after the company pledged to improve working conditions within its supply chain. Although Shein’s sustainability report indicates that labor conditions are improving, it also shows that in third-party audits of over 3,000 suppliers and subcontractors, 71 percent received a score of C or lower on the company’s grade scale of A to E — mediocre at best.

Machine learning plays an important role in Shein’s business model. Although Peter Pernot-Day, Shein’s head of global strategy and corporate affairs, told Business Insider last August that AI was not central to its operations, he indicated otherwise during a presentation at a retail conference at the beginning of this year.

“We are using machine-learning technologies to accurately predict demand in a way that we think is cutting edge,” he said. Pernot-Day told the audience that all of Shein’s 5,400 suppliers have access to an AI software platform that gives them updates on customer preferences, and they change what they’re producing to match it in real time.

“This means we can produce very few copies of each garment,” he said. “It means we waste very little and have very little inventory waste.” On average, the company says it stocks between 100 to 200 copies of each item — a stark contrast with more conventional fast-fashion brands, which typically produce thousands of each item per season, and try to anticipate trends months in advance. Shein calls its model “on-demand,” while a technology analyst who spoke to Vox in 2021 called it “real-time” retail.

At the conference, Pernot-Day also indicated that the technology helps the company pick up on “micro trends” that customers want to wear. “We can detect that, and we can act on that in a way that I think we’ve really pioneered,” he said. A designer who filed a recent class action lawsuit in a New York District Court alleges that the company’s AI market analysis tools are used in an “industrial-scale scheme of systematic, digital copyright infringement of the work of small designers and artists,” that scrapes designs off the internet and sends them directly to factories for production.

In an emailed statement to Grist, a Shein spokesperson reiterated Peter Pernot-Day’s assertion that technology allows the company to reduce waste and increase efficiency and suggested that the company’s increased emissions in 2023 were attributable to booming business. “We do not see growth as antithetical to sustainability,” the spokesperson said.

An analysis of Shein’s sustainability report by the Business of Fashion, a trade publication, found that last year, the company’s emissions rose at almost double the rate of its revenue — making Shein the highest-emitting company in the fashion industry. By comparison, Zara’s emissions rose half as much as its revenue. For other industry titans, such as H&M and Nike, sales grew while emissions fell from the year before.

Shein’s emissions are especially high because of its reliance on air shipping, said Sheng Lu, a professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. “AI has wide applications in the fashion industry. It’s not necessarily that AI is bad,” Lu said. “The problem is the essence of Shein’s particular business model.”

Other major brands ship items overseas in bulk, prefer ocean shipping for its lower cost, and have suppliers and warehouses in a large number of countries, which cuts down on the distances that items need to travel to consumers.

According to the company’s sustainability report, 38 percent of Shein’s climate footprint comes from transportation between its facilities and to customers, and another 61 percent come from other parts of its supply chain. Although the company is based in Singapore and has suppliers in a handful of countries, the majority of its garments are produced in China and are mailed out by air in individually addressed packages to customers. In July, the company sent about 900,000 of these to the US every day.

Shein’s spokesperson told Grist that the company is developing a decarbonization road map to address the footprint of its supply chain. Recently, the company has increased the amount of inventory it stores in US warehouses, allowing it to offer American customers quicker delivery times, and increased its use of cargo ships, which are more carbon-efficient than cargo planes.

“Controlling the carbon emissions in the fashion industry is a really complex process,” Lu said, adding that many brands use AI to make their operations more efficient. “It really depends on how you use AI.”

There is research that indicates using certain AI technologies could help companies become more sustainable. “It’s the missing piece,” said Shahriar Akter, an associate dean of business and law at the University of Wollongong in Australia. In May, Akter and his colleagues published a study finding that when fast-fashion suppliers used AI data management software to comply with big brands’ sustainability goals, those companies were more profitable and emitted less. A key use of this technology, Atker says, is to closely monitor environmental impacts, such as pollution and emissions. “This kind of tracking was not available before AI-based tools,” he said.

Shein told Grist it does not use machine-learning data management software to track emissions, which is one of the uses of AI included in Akter’s study. But the company’s much-touted usage of machine-learning software to predict demand and reduce waste is another of the uses of AI included in the research.

Regardless, the company has a long way to go before meeting its goals. Grist calculated that the emissions Shein reportedly saved in 2023 — with measures such as providing its suppliers with solar panels and opting for ocean shipping — amounted to about 3 percent of the company’s total carbon emissions for the year.

Lenier, from Sustainable and Just Future, believes there is no ethical use of AI in the fast-fashion industry. She said that the largely unregulated technology allows brands to intensify their harmful impacts on workers and the environment. “The folks who work in fast-fashion factories are now under an incredible amount of pressure to turn out even more, even faster,” she said.

Lenier and Lu both believe that the key to a more sustainable fashion industry is convincing customers to buy less. Lu said if companies use AI to boost their sales without changing their unsustainable practices, their climate footprints will also grow accordingly. “It’s the overall effect of being able to offer more market-popular items and encourage consumers to purchase more than in the past,” he said. “Of course, the overall carbon impact will be higher.”

[nqynhhh]

Slow Fashion in Vietnam: A Movement Gaining Momentum

Slow fashion is not just a trend; it's a shift in mindset. It's about valuing quality over quantity, investing in timeless pieces, and supporting sustainable practices. In recent years, the slow fashion movement in Vietnam has been steadily gaining momentum as consumers become more conscious of the environmental and social impacts of the traditional fast fashion industry. Fueled by a growing awareness of sustainable practices and a desire to support local artisans, Vietnamese brands and designers are embracing the principles of slow fashion and offering thoughtful, ethically-produced alternatives to the mass-produced garments that have long dominated the market.

Embracing Sustainable Practices

One shining example of the slow fashion ethos in Vietnam is Kilomet109, a Hanoi-based brand that showcases the country's rich textile heritage. Founded by designer Vu Thao, Kilomet109 meticulously crafts each garment, utilizing eco-friendly materials and traditional techniques (Ngo Quynh,2022). Their dedication to sustainability extends beyond the production process, as they actively promote environmental awareness and encourage responsible consumption habits among their customers.

Another notable brand, Fashion4Freedom, shows the desire to use fashion to liberate and develop. Each F4F product is a true work of art thanks to its uniqueness in concept and processing. Dragon Shoes is an example. The sole of the shoe "takes advantage" of jackfruit wood purchased from local families, intricately carved. F4F also has many impressive products such as patterned costumes of the Ta Oi people, jewelry collections from phones and computers. and broken tablets, wooden jewelry... When looking at products from F4F, we have the right to be proud of a carving culture coming from traditional craft villages (Nhi Nguyen, 2022).

Environmental Benefits and Cultural Preservation

The environmental benefits of slow fashion in Vietnam are undeniable. Slow fashion brands typically utilize natural, organic materials like organic cotton, hemp, and Tencel. These materials require less water, energy, and harmful chemicals compared to conventional fast-fashion fabrics. Additionally, slow fashion emphasizes smaller production batches, minimizing textile waste, a significant environmental concern in the global fashion industry.

Furthermore, slow fashion in Vietnam celebrates and revitalizes traditional craftsmanship techniques. Many brands collaborate with local artisans who possess skills in weaving, dyeing, and embroidery passed down through generations. This not only preserves cultural heritage but also empowers local communities by providing sustainable livelihoods for artisans. Brands like Gia Studio, which uses natural dyes and handwoven fabrics to create traditional Vietnamese clothing, are examples of this cultural preservation (Pameyla Cambe,2024)

A promising for future

The slow fashion movement in Vietnam is still in its early stages, but it has the potential to make a significant impact on the global fashion industry. As more and more Vietnamese consumers embrace slow fashion principles, the industry is poised to play a significant role in reducing the fashion industry's environmental impact and promoting ethical labor practices.

The rise of slow fashion in Vietnam signals a promising shift towards more sustainable and socially responsible consumption. As this movement grows, it not only brings environmental and economic benefits but also strengthens the cultural fabric of Vietnamese society, weaving a future where fashion respects both people and the planet.

References

Cambe, P. (2024, April 2). Vietnamese Fashion Brand Gia Studios Is Crafting The Ultimate Minimalist Wardrobe. Grazia Singapore. https://grazia.sg/fashion/gia-studios-lam-gia-khang-vietnamese-fashion-brand-minimalist-interview/

Maker Profile: Kilomet109. (2017, September 21). THE KINDCRAFT. https://thekindcraft.com/kilomet109/

Nguyen, N. (2022, July 18). 5 thương hiệu thời trang việt bền bỉ theo đuổi sự bền vững. Vietcetera. https://vietcetera.com/vn/5-thuong-hieu-thoi-trang-viet-ben-bi-theo-duoi-su-ben-vung

Quynh, N. (2022). Top 10 thương hiệu thời trang bền vững nổi tiếng tại Việt Nam. Coolmate. https://www.coolmate.me/post/cac-thuong-hieu-thoi-trang-ben-vung-tai-viet-nam

[melonthesprigatito]

Melon Ranks Sprigatito Plushies (But Only The Ones I Own Sorry)

BOOTLEG SPRIGATITO

Face Leaf Pattern Thing: Embroidered Edges

Eyes: Fully Embroidered

Neck Leafs: Two Strips of Fabric

Cheek Fluff: Strips of Fabric

:D or :3 Face: :D

Ears: Flat and floppy

Huggability Rating: 2/10 (This thing is stuffed like a rock, man.)

Overall rating: 3/10

Overview: Probably the worst plush you could get. The colour is too... radioactive, the tail is sewn on upside down in a way???? (that little tuft is supposed to be pointing upwards), the legs are weird., it's head is very flat. This plush is very obviously based on the official art and was made long before we ever saw Sprigatito in 3D (I got mine in May 2022) so it's flat out missing things that aren't visible in the official art like the paw pads and the leaf on the back of Sprigatito's neck. But this one is the OG Melon and my profile pic and I took it on vacation with me so I can't fault it too hard. :)

JAZZWARES/ WICKED COOL TOYS SPRIGATITO

Face Leaf Pattern Thing: Embroidered Edges

Eyes: Fully Embroidered

Neck Leafs: Strip of fabric on top of stuffed thing

Cheek Fluff: Strips of Fabric

:D or :3 Face: :3

Ears: Flat but stuffed with plastic card

Huggability Rating: 3/10 (Stuffed like a brick and the ears are firm and pokey. I'm sad :c )

Overall rating: 5/10

Overview: The dime a dozen Sprigatito plush found in pretty much every single toy store and supermarket that sells toys. No need to order online which is a plus. Got a nice subtle snoot to boop. Because the front neck leaf is stuffed, it sticks out. They don't let you see the back of it in the toy store website reference images, which I thought was weird until I bought it. The back is where it all falls apart. The back neck leaf isn't a single piece, it's too halves sewn together for some reason???? Which causes the seam allowance to make it crinkle up. The tail is the worst I've ever seen on a Sprigatito, at least the bootleg made AN ATTEMPT to look like the official art. The tail is a very narrow carrot shape with a tiny, barely noticeable single fabric triangle for the tuft. Yikes. Though it is made by a third party plush company so I guess the quality not being perfect is to be expected. Jazzwares does other Pokémon that look a whole lot better.

OFFICAL POKÉMON CENTER KEYRING SPRIGATITO

Face Leaf Pattern Thing: Printed on

Eyes: Fully Embroidered

Neck Leafs: Strip of fabric on top of very loosely stuffed thing

Cheek Fluff: Strips of Fabric

:D or :3 Face: :3

Ears: Firmly stuffed with embroidered inside detail

Huggability Rating: No/10 (Good luck hugging something that can fits snugly into the palm of your hand. Maybe hold it like an ice cream)

Overall rating: 7/10

Overview: So smol. 🥺 Perfect for slipping it into your pocket and carrying it everywhere. You're better off not using it as an actual keyring though. Just keep it as a cheaper, minature version of the standard Pokémon Center Sprigatito. The plastic loop is awful, it opens too easily so your Sprig could get lost in the wilderness without you knowing if it actually was put on your backpack. I just cut the keyring off and by that I mean I spent 20 minutes persistently sawing through plastic with fabric scissors so I could attach a normal metal key ring to the loop. Also the back neck leaf is LITERALLY handing on by a thread. It's held on by a single stitch. I get its a small plush, but come on, really????

OFFICIAL POKÉMON CENTER POKÉDOLL SPRIGATITO

Face Leaf Pattern Thing: Printed on

Eyes: Fully Embroidered

Neck Leafs: Strip of fabric on top of very loosely stuffed thing

Cheek Fluff: Not felt! Sewn piece

:D or :3 Face: :3

Ears: Firmly stuffed

Huggability Rating: 7/10 (SQUISHYYYYYYYYY)

Overview: Gonna come right out of the gate and say I really hate this trend of the Pokémon Center just printing on details (i.e the face leaf) instead of embroidery or different coloured fabric stitched on. It reminds me of that £2 Judy Hopps plush my mom bought for me years ago that had the clothes printed on instead of fabric pieces. And that plush was a bargain bin thing that was SUPPOSED to be lower quality. Not a fan of spending £10-15 plus £5 shipping on a plushie with printed details. I just think it looks cheap and I wish they put a little more effort into some of their plushies. It looks like it could be washed away if you put it in a washing machine.

Other than that, BABYYYY!!!!!!!! KITTY!!!!!!!! A BEAN!!!!!!!!!!!! (ﾉ◕ヮ◕)ﾉ*:･ﾟIT'S SO FUCKING CUTE LOOK AT THAT FACE OH MY FUCKING GOD. Doesn't have paw pads though. :c BUT IT'S A TOO PURE FOR THIS SINFUL EARTH I WANNA GENTLY HOLD IT FOREVER 🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺

BUILD A BEAR SPRIGATITO

Face Leaf Pattern Thing: Embroidered Edges

Eyes: Fabric with embroidered edges.

Neck Leafs: ALL LIGHTLY STUFFED

Cheek Fluff: STUFFED

:D or :3 Face: :D

Ears: Stuffed but not too blocky. Very close to ingame model

Huggability Rating: 1000/10 (HELP I'VE BEEN STUCK HERE HUGGING THIS PLUSHIE, I HAVEN'T SEEN MY FAMILY IN TEN YEARS)

Overall rating; 9/10

Overview: Some may hate Build a Bear Pokémon for their chubby proportions but I think this is fucking PERFECTION. No more strips of fabric, every single part is stuffed, the nose is some sort of plastic thing with a fuzzy texture, maybe the muzzle it's on is sticking out a little too much but for once the head ISN'T crammed full of too much stuffing! I think it's close to life size too? Probably. I haven't compared it with Sprigatito's official height yet. AND ITS GOT PAJAMAS. AND A CAPE. THAT FITS ONTO MY EEVEE AND GLACEON BUILD A BEARS TOO. Truly it must be Arceus' gift to the world. If you're willing to give your wallet a sucker punch to the stomach,

BUY IT, GOD DAMN IT, BUY IT

If you want to