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Insulin Resistance~ An Equine Epidemic ~

Insulin Resistance~ An Equine Epidemic ~

Insulin Resistance (IR) falls under the umbrella of Equine Metabolic Syndrome and describes a metabolic problem caused by high sugar diets and a lack of exercise. IR causes weight gain, hormone imbalances, poor immunity, and laminitis. Eventually, if left unchecked, most cases will progress into Cushing’s Disease (PPID).

IR is now a wide-spread problem and is being diagnosed in record numbers even in our younger horses. It is estimated that up to 40% of domestic horses are overweight and 30% have been diagnosed with IR.

What Is Insulin Resistance?

IR occurs as a result of over-feeding unsuitable feeds and unrestricted grass grazing, mostly combined with a lack of exercise. Not very different from people. When blood sugar rises after eating, insulin is secreted by the pancreas to open up glucose receptors in the muscles and liver. This transports the sugars out of the blood and into the tissues for energy or for storage. Normally sugars are stored in the muscles and liver as glycogen – the storage form of sugar – from where they are converted back into sugar and released into the blood when needed for energy. However, when the muscles and liver storage depots are full the receptors will no longer respond to insulin and will therefore not open to allow the sugars entry into the tissues. At this point the insulin production will continue to rise in an effort to keep signaling the receptors to open.

Sugars which cannot be stored as glycogen must now convert to fat or triglycerides resulting, of course, in weight gain and sometimes a fatty liver, especially in Minnies, ponies, and donkeys. In time, blood sugar and insulin imbalances also disrupt the adrenals, thyroid and pituitary as they work harder to regulate the insulin levels and the disruption to the metabolism. These imbalances along with low levels of dopamine eventually progress to Cushing’s disease (PPID).

Signs & Symptoms of IR

The changes in insulin levels, hormones, and metabolism are responsible for a number of symptoms. These include:

Fatigue

Increased thirst

Increased urination

Poor immunity

General inflammation

Body soreness

Laminitis – particularly if the high sugar diet is combined with poor trimming practices which are very common.

Why Is My Horse Hangry?

Leptin, a hormone released from fat cells, sends signals to the hypothalamus in the brain to tell the brain that the body is full of food. It is therefore called the satiety hormone because it inhibits hunger and regulates energy levels by only triggering hunger when it needs energy. Therefore, the primary purpose of leptin is to help the body maintain normal weight; it is the master hormone of body fat regulation.

When levels of this hormone fall, it sends a starvation alarm to the brain triggering huge increases in appetite and food cravings – usually sugar, as well as an increase in fat storage. It also reduces the motivation to exercise and decreases the resting metabolism which slows weight loss. And it makes them irritable.

And while overweight horses may have enough leptin, many of them have become “leptin resistant” (LR); like insulin resistance the body becomes resistant to any hormones which are excessively high. This is part of a defense mechanism to protect the body’s metabolism. Once a horse is leptin resistant the fat cells as well as the brain are no longer receiving the leptin signal to burn fat or to stop eating. This causes the brain to think that it needs to conserve energy because it is missing fat, so the horses become lazier and heavier.

The Easy Keepers

The horses most at-risk for weight gain are the ‘easy keeping’ breeds: ponies such as Shetlands and Welsh Mountain ponies, Minnies, Icelandics, Arabs, Mustangs, Morgans, draft horses and gaited horses. Although to be honest, almost all breeds are susceptible now because of the domestic environment that we have forced them into. IR is now even seen in both recreational horses and performance horses.

Easy keepers are easy because their ancestry and metabolism is adapted for survival in harsh, low nutrient environments rather than lush sugar-laden pastures with oats for dessert. The over-weight horse standing knee-deep in a lush grass field with no reason to walk or run, other than to graze and saunter over to the water trough is a classic image.

For our early equine ancestors, EMS was actually a survival mechanism to endure seasons of food shortages whereby hormone fluctuations, especially insulin, acted to slow down metabolism. This ensured that they could rely on less fuel as a way of survival.

In addition, the ubiquitous easy-keeping ponies and donkeys found in back yards everywhere appears to be caused by their ability to absorb more sugar than larger horses. This is thought to be a result of the “thrifty gene” which means that in order to survive starvation in the wild they have learned to absorb sugar, store fats, and slow down metabolism. And the sugar receptors in their livers and muscles don’t seem as receptive to opening to allow the sugar entry from the blood. So, the smaller equines have to produce more insulin (insulin opens the receptors) to try and activate those resistant receptors. This receptor mechanism is true for all IR horses mind you, no matter the size.

Senior horses are also prone to IR which is to be expected since their overall metabolic rate is lower, their stress coping abilities are reduced, and their hormones are no longer as efficient.

Not all overweight horses and ponies have IR, but all IR horses and ponies are prone to weight gain.

If walking around a grass field to graze is the only exercise your horses and ponies get, especially given their high sugar grass diets, excess weight gain and its ill health effects are a certainty, not a possibility. And the grazing horse in domestic pastures cannot be compared to horses walking in the mountains foraging on native grasses. Our grass is no longer natural and is not the best thing for a horse, as we once believed.

Lifestyle Changes for Insulin Resistant Horses

1. Exercise is critical in helping your horse overcome weight gain, LR and IR. Horses should be encouraged to exercise a minimum of 2-3 times per week through hand-walking or jogging, light riding, ponying, liberty work, or playing with other horses. Studies show that within three weeks of regular exercise the number of insulin receptors can quadruple. In addition, regular exercise increases the metabolism, accelerates weight loss, improves the immune system, contributes to mental well-being, and is critical to maintain healthy hooves.

2. Use slow feeders so that they do not run out of hay at any given time and always have something to nibble at. Slow feeders help horses stabilize blood sugar, reduce stress levels, relieve boredom, improve digestion, and promote weight loss. Many times, people want to restrict an IR horse from eating by feeding them more infrequently and reducing their quantities of hay. However, anytime that a horse gets hungry and cannot graze, forage or nibble, their stress levels rise and so do their stress hormones. These hormone imbalances cause the adrenal glands to produce higher cortisol levels, increases weight gain, increases inflammation, depresses the immune system, and disturbs the metabolic hormones including insulin and leptin. When leptin levels drop due to lack of food, it triggers extreme hunger. Restricted feeding also adversely affects digestion resulting in more cases of acidity and/or colic. See our selection of Slow Feeders here.

The Insulin Resistant Diet

Eliminate all high sugar feeds including grains, oats, corn, and barley.

Eliminate or drastically reduce grass grazing.

Eliminate all commercial feeds which often contain unhealthy by-products and ingredients that can drive inflammation.

Ensure the hay is low sugar and low fructan. Feed in slow hay feeders.

Increase fibre and protein, both of which help to decrease the absorption of sugars from the intestines into the blood. For added fibre add two cups of soaked beet pulp with one cup of alfalfa pellets or a pound or two of soaked alfalfa cubes. Ensure that your horses are able to tolerate these food groups.

Feed Helpful Supplements

Pro-Colon

– ¼ tsp daily

Provides probiotics and prebiotics to support digestion and nutrient absorption. Maintains a healthy intestinal immune system

Metabolism Drops

One dose (5-10 sprays) daily for 21 days, or as needed

A homeopathic remedy for easy keepers to support normal sugar metabolism, blood sugar, and weight. Maintains a normal appetite in overly hunger horses.

Vitamin B6

– 1 tsp daily (= 750 mg)

Supports sugar metabolism, healthy weight, and insulin levels. Maintains hormone balance and healthy thyroid function.

Vitamin B12

- 1 tsp daily (= 6,000 mcg)

Supports carbohydrate metabolism, liver function, and a healthy nervous system. Maintains energy levels and a healthy hindgut.

Take Our EMS Course – Resolving Equine Metabolic Syndrome

This course will walk you through the process of formulating a specific feed, remedy, and supplement program for all EMS conditions including Insulin Resistance (IR), Cushing’s Syndrome (PPID), and Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy (PSSM). You will learn strategies for prevention, recovery, and maintenance.

This is a self-paced short course available at any time.

More Info: www.elishaedwards.com

___________________________________________

By: Marijke van de Water, B.Sc., DHMS

Equine Health & Nutrition Specialist Homeopathic Practitioner Medical Intuitive & Healer Educator & Author

Marijke is a life-long horse lover, the author of the best-selling Healing Horses Their Way, and the founder, formulator, and CEO of Riva’s Remedies. She is a gifted healer who helps horses, and their people, from around the world live happier, healthier lives.

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To Blanket or Not to Blanket

Winter is upon us and can be a challenging time of year for the animal kingdom including our domestic horses. Many people believe that their horses need to be blanketed in order to stay warm and/or to maintain weight. While others believe that horses are from the wild and that the natural horse doesn’t need any clothing in order to survive cold weather.

It turns out that the answer is not as simple as a yes or no, and that the decision needs to be based on each horse and their individual situation. Let’s first take a look at how horses normally retain body heat.

How do Horses Naturally Stay Warm?

The first species of horses arose on several different continents, including Asia, Europe, and North America in a variety of different habitats with different climates. The exposure to both hot and cold climates required horses to develop unique methods of thermoregulation. These adaptations appear to have served them very well as to this day, whether they are wild or domestic, they are found to live in areas with all kinds of weather elements including wind, hot sun, pouring rain, deep snow, and temperatures which range from minus 50C to over 45C degrees.

There are three primary ways in which horses stay warm in cold weather.

1. Skin

In large animals such as horses, the skin is very thick, in fact it may be a total of 12-24% of their entire body weight! The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin and acts as a barrier to both foreign substances and toxins. It also prevents heat loss, and protects from heat and cold. Horses also have a layer of sub-cutaneous fat under their skin which is an effective insulator and has three times more insulating capabilities than other tissues. This is why underweight horses are more at risk for cold-related problems. However, horses with a less thick fat layer will grow a longer hair coat than horses with more fat.

In general, horses have a greater ratio of surface area to body weight which helps to conserve heat as well. But smaller breeds with stocky builds grow thicker hair coats because they have more relative surface area from where to lose heat from. Think Shetland ponies or Fjords who grow very thick and heavy hair coats.

Horses may also shiver by contracting muscles to stimulate metabolism which breaks down ATP in the muscles resulting in more heat production. Shivering is usually only seen in response to sudden cold weather, or prolonged exposure to cold wet weather.

2. Hair Coat

A horse’s hair coat is an amazing thermoregulator. Hair coats are insulators which change thickness twice per year as they adjust to current temperatures by growing hair in the winter and shedding it out again in the summer. Colder climates produce thicker and longer coats, while warmer climates result in increased hair loss.

Hair coat changes react to sensors in the horse’s skin which are activated by changes in the hours of daylight. Amazingly, their hair begins to grow longer, albeit slowly, right after the summer solstice when days start getting shorter. And then hair loss begins again slowly, after the winter solstice when days start getting longer. A lot of us in the northern climates see a significant loss of guard hairs by the end of February.

Horses also have a mechanism called piloerection. Erector muscles in the hair follicles can raise or lower the hair coat which increases or decreases the thickness of the insulation layer. When the hair coat stands on end it increases the space between the hairs allowing an increase of air flow to the skin which then traps the body heat and creates a layer of insulating heat. This is what is happening when you see the raising or bristling of the hair in cold weather. Piloerection can increase the coat depth to anywhere from 10-30% in mature horses. But, in horses covered in rain or wet snow their piloerection ability drops, allowing the water to reach the skin which cools them off.

A horse’s hair coat is also covered in natural oils which helps to repel rain and melting snow keeping the deeper hair coat dry.

3. Arteries

Arteries either dilate or constrict depending on how much heat is required. This regulates the amount of blood flow to the skin. A large amount of blood flow during dilation will release heat and lower internal body temperature when it returns to the interior of the body. If the blood is not able to release enough heat, the sweat glands will secrete warm fluids. When arteries constrict the blood flow is reduced which will then conserve heat and prevent internal heat loss.

How to Keep Your Horses Warm (With or Without Blankets)

1. Provide Forage 24/7

A horse generates body heat by digesting food and fermenting fibre. Fermentation in the hindgut creates internal heat to help keep the body warm from within. Therefore, horses must have ample amounts of hay forage to stay warm in cold weather. High fibre foods such as beet pulp and various types of bran are also helpful.

2. Weight Maintenance

It is estimated that for each degree that the temperature drops below 0C degrees your horse needs an extra 1% increase in feed. Otherwise, s/he will lose weight due to the increased energy required to keep warm. And if a horse is being exercised in cold weather, they will lose weight very quickly if they don’t eat more than usual.

3. Water

Ensure that your horse has unfrozen water available that is warm enough to be palatable. Soaked beet pulp is also a good source of hydration.

Dehydration puts your horse at risk for weight loss, heat loss from digestive problems, colic, muscle cramps, muscle fatigue, and loss of coordination. And dry, cold air increases water loss from the respiratory airways and the lungs.

4. Exercise with Caution

Body temperature increases during exercise because heat is created by the muscles which are producing energy. But exercising in the cold can affect their ability to stay warm.

Exercising in cold weather uses more energy, and glycogen (stored starch used for energy) is burned up 5 times faster in cold weather. This is why horses (and people) lose weight faster by exercising in the cold.

I notice with my own horses if the temperature is below about minus 20C they really slow down and don’t walk a lot. At first this surprised me because I had assumed that more exercise would help keep them warm, but they instinctively know that by moving slowly they are conserving heat. It appears to be a seasonal biorhythm which comes naturally to them since wild horses have been observed to do the same. By breathing less frequently, they will reduce the heat lost in expired breaths. And less movement reduces the need for extra food should that not be available to the horse, whether domestic or wild.

Moderate cold is not usually a problem for healthy horses, as they only breathe through the nose, so the inhaled air is warm and moist before reaching the lungs. Nevertheless, respiratory symptoms can be common during very cold spells for some horses because the airways narrow or constrict caused by breathing large volumes of cold, dry air. This dehydrates the airways, and so the respiratory system doesn’t maintain the normal warm temperatures as easily. Dehydrated airways can also cause induced asthma.

5. Grooming

If your horses don’t wear a blanket it is best to not brush your horses in the wintertime since excessive brushing can distribute or remove the protective oils interfering with their repellent properties. For the same reason mud and dirt and even snow (unless melting) should be left on since all of these act as insulators.

6. Provide shelter

Horses will naturally seek out shelter, if available, from the rain and wind or heavy snowfalls. This is important because wild horses can use the forests and the trees, so we need to provide our domestic horses with the same freedoms to maintain comfort. It is estimated that a shelter can prevent up to 20% of a horse’s heat loss.

Horses will also often choose to stand with their hindquarters to the wind with their heads low. This helps to protect their vulnerable areas: head, ears, eyes, underbelly, and sheaths. Horses that are feeling cold may huddle together with the herd, may be reluctant to move from a sheltered space, or may not want to leave the barn if they are inside.

But horses that live outside with shelter, and no barn time are better able to maintain their body heat than a horse that is kept in a warm barn overnight with a blanket on and then gets turned out for the day.

Which Horses Could Use a Blanket?

1. Lifestyle Considerations

If your horse is or has not been enjoying natural living conditions, then a blanket could be warranted. Horses that have been previously blanketed might not have grown a thick enough coat yet. Horses that have been under artificial lighting will have inferior coats, horses that have been clipped will definitely need blankets, and the haircoats on horses that have moved from a warm to cold climate will need time to adjust. Similarly, horses that travel to a warmer climate for a short time and then return home to the cold will also need time to adapt.

And horses that don’t have any shelter at all against the wind, rain, and snow should be moved or a shelter made available. Barring those measures, an unsheltered horse in cold or wet climates (and even warm ones) will need a blanket.

2. Breed Considerations

Breeds that are heavier, with thicker compact legs, and lots of fetlock feathers have thicker skin and more fat. This would include the drafts, Warmbloods, Fjords, Icelandics, and some ponies who are more adapted to cold weather climates.

Horses with lighter bones, longer legs, leaner muscles, or silky hair coats have thinner skin and sometimes blood vessels that are visible. Thus, thoroughbreds and Arabs for example are better suited to warmer climates and may feel the cold more easily. Nevertheless, even lean horses know how to thermoregulate and with enough food, water, and shelter healthy light-breed horses will most likely not need blanketing.

3. Health Considerations

Senior horses with low metabolism may need help retaining heat in the cold weather since they are not as efficient as regulating their temperature as younger horses.

Underweight horses will need help since they don’t have less insulation.

Horses with chronic health problems and/or poor immunity may need extra warmth until they are feeling better.

Horses who have not or cannot grow a thick enough coat should be blanketed in cold climates.

Horses enduring chronic stress are less capable of retaining body heat since stress hormones interfere with the natural thermoregulatory mechanisms. Stabling, boredom, lack of freedom, lack of friendship, excessive training or exercise programs, and infrequent feedings of forage are all risk factors.

Responsibilities to the Blanketed Horse

Once a horse wears a blanket, we are obligated to pay attention to a number of things.

1.      Blankets must be removed on a regular basis for various reasons.

a.      To check for body temperature and the suitability of the blanket relative to the climate. And to ensure that they are not wet underneath which could chill them or cause rain rot. Make sure that their blankets are waterproof and/or insulated adequately as needed. Blankets must also be removed or replaced on warmer days. How many times have we seen horses wearing thick blankets on a too warm day? How uncomfortable this must be. Excess heat also interferes with metabolism so don’t let your blanketed horses sweat.

b.      To check for weight loss and/or skin problems that may have developed from getting too warm and/or not being exposed to fresh air. Horses can develop blanket rubs, skin infections, or rashes.

c.       To let them roll in the dirt, and the mud, and snow. This is how horses clean and massage themselves and ground themselves to the Earth.

2.      If horses wear blankets and spend too much time in the barn their thermoregulatory mechanisms are less efficient from under-use. So, if these horses are suddenly exposed to very cold temperatures, it could not only result in an inability to stay warm but may also compromise the immune system and overall metabolism.

3.      Keep in mind that blankets of all kinds do flatten the hair coat preventing piloerection and interfering with the insulating layer. Blankets also inhibit hair growth so transitioning from a blanket to no blanket should be done gradually according to the weather.

Conclusion

Consider your horse’s situation carefully as to whether or not they need a blanket. Horses that are acclimatized to their particular area, have access to shelter, have a good winter coat, have 24/7 forage, are not underweight, and have low stress levels are unlikely to need a blanket. I have a blanket here ready for my 25-year-old this winter but thus far she is showing no physical signs of needing help to keep warm. And surprisingly she makes very little use of the shelters, less than the younger horses, unless it is really raining or snowing hard.  

Each horse is an individual however, so the choice is up to your horse; let them guide you so that you can make the best decision for them.

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The World of Parasites: Part I

Horses & Worms

Parasites are a part of our horses world, and they are here to stay. Almost all horses carry some level of parasites all of the time and the horse-parasite relationship seems to be an important part of the overall ecosystem. And the parasites, like most pathogens in the microbiome, are not a problem if they are in balance. In fact, they help support our horses’ immune system. However, should parasites over-produce to the point where the horse is carrying a heavier load, health problems can easily develop, some of them quite serious. Horses with heavy loads lose nutrients and blood and suffer reduced reproductive and athletic performance.

We refer to our horses’ worms as parasites which they are. But the term parasites actually encompasses many other types of organisms that live on or in a host and gets its food at their expense. Technically, worms are “helminths” which describe them as intestinal worms and helps to distinguish them from the many other types of parasites which can reside within our horses. The average horse is home to thousands of different kinds of protozoa, molds, fungi, bacteria, and viruses; these pathogens are mostly not yet scientifically identified and the ones that are known, are often not detected since they don’t always cause clinical symptoms until the imbalance is extreme.

Worms, both adults and their encysts, can be responsible for a lot of different symptoms. We are familiar with common signs of parasite overgrowths such as a rough hair coat, pot bellies, weight loss, and digestive issues including poor appetite, diarrhea, and colic. But parasites are responsible for many other symptoms as well because they produce different chemicals and toxins including ammonia, which have adverse effects on our horses’ chemistry and physiology.

Parasites frequently cause anemia (by eating blood), alter the metabolism, reduce circulation, decrease energy levels, and compromise immunity by disturbing the intestinal immune system and contributing to leaky gut. Horses with parasite loads therefore often have an increase of allergies, skin problems, chronic infections, generalized stiffness, and difficulties in recovering from illness. And what is not often discussed is the effect of parasites on hoof health; laminitis is exacerbated through chemicals and toxins in the blood which circulate through the feet causing inflammation and damage to the tissues.

Encysted parasites are the larvae which become enclosed in a protective sac. Encysts frequently migrate from the large colon to other parts of the body as they seek to hibernate. Encysted parasites can be found in the intestinal membranes, the mesenteric artery, other blood vessels, liver, kidneys, pancreas, lungs, and even the heart. These encysts can scar the affected organs and also interfere with important body functions.

Why Do Horses Get Parasites?

Of all domestic livestock, horses have the largest numbers of parasites including large strongyles, small strongyles, roundworms, and pinworms. Horses graze close to the ground and, more than other livestock, are always smelling, nibbling, and licking, whereby they can pick up large numbers of eggs or infective larvae that live on the grass blades. Therefore, horses that graze on grass in a domesticated living environment are the most susceptible. In fact, studies have determined that grazing horses are far more likely to host a parasite load than those horses housed on dry lots with hay diets.

Grazing horses are also at risk if they are allowed to overgraze their pasture, because overgrazed, nutrient-poor grass favours higher larval populations. Insufficient space for multiple horses is also a risk factor because in tight quarters they are more likely to pick up eggs shed by one another. And horses kept in crowded facilities are generally not as healthy and have weaker immune systems.

Horses can be susceptible to a wide variety of internal parasites. The types of parasites and the parasite load is dependent upon grazing, soil conditions, diet, age, overall health and immunity, and exposure to other horses.

So, let’s find out what culprit worms are the most common and likely to cause the horses a variety of health problems.

What Type of Common Worms Can Infect Horses?

The life cycles of the different parasites are very similar and rotate between the external environment and the inside of our horses. Eggs are passed through the manure and onto the grass or barn floor as eggs and are then inadvertently ingested by the horses. Eggs grow into the larval stage either before ingestion or in the hindgut, intestinal membranes, and other organs. And then after several months the larvae move back into the hindgut where they mature into adult worms and lay thousands of eggs which are then passed back out again into the pasture to start the cycle all over again.

Large Strongyles (Strongylus vulgaris)

Strongyles, both large and small, are the most common of parasites and also the most destructive. There are three species of large strongyles (S. vulgaris, S. endentatus, and S. equinus) with S. vulgaris being the most common. Strongyle vulgaris eggs are shed into the manure and hatch out into the larval stage outside in the grass or soil in as little as three days. Strongyles can survive in a freezing environment, but a hot, dry environment will often kill them. The infective larvae survive up to 30 weeks at winter temperatures, compared to up to 7 weeks in the summer.

The horses ingest the larvae through grazing, the larvae drop their protective coating, and then in the fall, prompted by changes in daylight, they attach themselves to the intestinal wall in the hindgut. From here they migrate through the arteries to the mesenteric artery. After 6-8 months the larvae travel back to the large colon where they mature into adult worms and lay several thousand eggs each day. In the spring the eggs are passed into the manure and back onto the pasture starting the cycle all over again. The entire life cycle is 6-7 months.

S. vulgaris are often referred to as blood worms or red worms because they travel in the bloodstream and because they can rough up the artery walls with lesions that cause inflammation, thickening, and the formation of blood clots. These clots can break away from the wall and block blood flow in the vessels, including the mesenteric artery which is the artery that flows to the intestines. If the mesenteric artery itself becomes damaged it can cause “verminous arteritis” where a segment of the intestines can become inflamed or die due to loss of blood supply. This is known as thromboembolic colic (the blocking of a blood vessel by a blood clot particle) and can be fatal.

Adult large strongyles can also bite off pieces of the intestinal membranes leading to colic, diarrhea, fevers, and anemia from the bleeding bite wounds.

A parasite load of large strongyles can cause weight loss, poor circulation, a dull hair coat, pot bellies, diarrhea, constipation, liver toxicity, anemia (worms feed off blood), immune problems, skin conditions, damage, or ruptures to the artery walls, mild or severe colic, and laminitis. Encysted strongyles can be found in the blood vessels, the liver, kidneys, the pancreas, and the heart.

S. endentatus, and S. equinus have a similar life cycle, but their larvae migrate through the liver. This migration damages the liver but not to the extent that S. vulgaris can cause to the arteries. They also return to the large colon with a life cycle of 8-11 months.

Small Strongyles (Cyathostomes)

Small strongyles have similar life cycles to the large strongyles. They pass their eggs into the grazing pastures during the summer which then hatch into larval stages 1 and 2 in the grass. Larval stage 3 is the infective larvae which are encased in a protective sheath that enables them to withstand winter climates very well. Once they are ingested, they lose their protective sheath in the small intestine and then move into the large colon where they encyst into the colon membranes and stay there. This damages the intestinal lining and so the intestines launch a defense strategy by forming scar tissue to envelop each larva. These little capsules or nodules are usually filled with blood that the larvae can feed off.

The larvae can live here for several weeks and even up to several years. The larvae develop into the 4th stage in late winter-early spring when the weather warms up and then emerge from the cyst and enter the large colon. However, the majority of the larvae remain encysted in the intestinal walls which is why fecal tests are often negative for small strongyle eggs.

As they emerge, they release toxins from the accumulated larval waste products. If too many encysted larvae emerge all at once they can cause diarrhea, recurring colic, blood loss, anemia, loss of appetite, weight loss, conjunctivitis, depression, dehydration, edema (water retention in the lower legs), and laminitis. This hindgut overload is more likely to occur with immune compromised horses, horses with a history of infrequent deworming, and exposure to other pasture horses with high worm loads.

If a very large number of small strongyles emerge all at once a health crisis called “larval cyathostomosis” can occur. This causes an immune reaction with inflammation and swelling of the intestinal wall. It results in damage to the hindgut membranes as well as a shutdown of peristalsis (normal gut action) which may lead to severe colic, and even death. A larval cyathostomosis is most often caused by using the wrong dewormers. As we shall see in Part II if adulticide dewormers are used in horses with a large load of small strongyles it will act as a trigger for an excess of encysted L3 larvae to come out of the intestinal membranes and dump into the colon in large numbers. Small strongyles are also much more resistant to chemical dewormers than large strongyles.

In some horses, small strongyle larvae continue to encyst and fail to erupt at all. Therefore, massive amounts of cysts build up causing an increase of scar tissue and therefore reducing gut absorption capacity. This usually occurs in late summer after significant exposure to contaminated pastures with L3 stage larvae, the stage that is also immune to chemical dewormers. Symptoms of this “adult cyathostomosis” could include weight loss, poor condition, anemia, fatigue, elevated liver enzymes, persistent diarrhea, and intestinal ulcers.

Roundworms (Parascaris equorum)

Roundworms are also known as ascarids, and the eggs are ingested by the horses, then migrate to the liver and lungs and back to the small intestine in the foregut to become adults. This process takes about 10-12 weeks. Adult worms can produce 200,000 eggs per day which are then passed into the manure. The eggs have a thick shell and are very resilient; roundworm eggs can survive in the environment for many years.

Roundworms are large white worms about the size of a pencil and can grow to be a foot long. Roundworms mostly affect youngers horses under 2 years of age and foals may have an overload of roundworms as early as 2-3 months. Many horses develop immunity by the age of 2 although they occasionally can be found in adult horses with poor intestinal health.

Symptoms of the migrating larvae can cause coughing and nasal discharge.  Adult round worms can cause a pot belly, digestive problems, weight loss, poor appetite, and poor nutrient absorption. Roundworms can become very large and block the intestines resulting in colic including severe colic. They can also scar the liver and migrate through the lungs resulting in coughing, fevers, shortness of breath, and respiratory infections such as pneumonia.

Pinworms (Oxyuris equi)

Pinworm eggs are ingested from contaminated pastures. They can also cling to stall walls and other surfaces. Once ingested the larvae hatch out in the hindgut and grow into adults. The female pinworms lay their eggs around the anus producing a sticky yellowish secretion. Pinworms can cause considerable irritation, itching, and tail rubbing; but do not usually cause digestive problems. Many horses on pasture itch a lot from the sugars in the grass that affect their overall immune system and skin health. So be sure and confirm the presence of pinworms before treatment.  

Tapeworms (Anoplocephala)

Tapeworms are more common in older and younger horses. They can grow to 4 feet in length and attach themselves to the blood vessels in the ileo-cecal junction just inside the cecum between the small and large intestines.

They release segments which contain eggs into the feces and the eggs are eaten by forage mites on the pasture The horses then eat the mites while they are grazing. Tapeworms are usually found in areas with lush green pastures and are very uncommon in dry arid areas or dry lots. The ingested tapeworm eggs mature in 6-10 weeks when they attach to the intestinal linings and absorb nutrients. Then in the spring the segments full of eggs break off from the tapeworm and are passed into the manure where they are ingested by pasture mites to start the cycle over again. However, because the eggs are housed in these segments, they are difficult to detect in fecal counts and are most often missed.

Symptoms of adult tapeworms are not clearly defined but can include rough hair coat, slow growth, nutrient deficiencies, and hindgut ulcers. If there’s enough of them they can cause an impaction colic in the region of the ileocecal junction.

Bots (G. intestinalis, G. nasalis)

Bots are not technically worms. The eggs are laid by the big yellow bot flies in late summer and are typically found on the shoulders, front legs, neck, mane, and flanks which must be removed with a bot knife or serrated knife. Very often they are worse on the left side of the horse. The eggs are dormant until the horse licks the eggs off and the moist warmth inside the mouth causes the eggs to hatch, and the larvae burrows into the gums and tongue. Eventually they migrate to the stomach and attach to the stomach wall causing inflammation and ulceration. The eggs will release from the stomach wall within 8-12 months and are passed into the manure and will hatch into another bot fly continuing the cycle. A bot infection can cause chronic colic, infections, changes in appetite, stomach pain, and other digestive problems.

Stomach Worms (Habronema spp)

These parasites reside in the stomach. They lay eggs here which are passed through the manure where they adhere to maggots. When the maggots develop into flies they can land on open wounds and deposit the larvae where they cause irritation and impede healing.

Neck Threadworm (Onchocerca cervicalis)

This parasite is transmitted by gnats or midges and the larvae live underneath the skin where they can cause severe dermatitis and thickening of the skin. Adult threadworms live in the tendons and ligaments.

Lungworm (Dictyocaulus arnfieldi)

The horse lungworm is long and slender measuring up to 1-3 inches. These parasites travel from the intestinal walls through the blood stream to the lungs where they mature. When large numbers of larvae are present the lining of the bronchioles may become stressed resulting in persistent coughing, difficulty breathing, and loss of appetite. Older horses are more immune, but foals are very susceptible. Nevertheless, foals as well as donkeys may not show any clinical signs.

Healthy Horses

Parasites are not interested in killing their hosts, rather they are interested in using their hosts as a pathway in continuing their life cycle to increase their numbers. However, they are more likely to cause harm to horses who are in a weakened condition and who have a poor intestinal immune system. The naturally healthy horse with a high level of resistance is a horse with efficient digestion, low sugar diets, free forage, strong immunity, adequate levels of exercise, regular cleanses, and well-selected remedies, including the smart use of chemical dewormers.

The effective prevention and treatment of parasites is discussed in detail in Part II: How Should I Deworm My Horse?   

Marijke van de Water, B.Sc., DHMS Equine Health & Nutrition Specialist Homeopathic Practitioner Medical Intuitive & Healer Educator & Author

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Undiagnosed parasites can be a big deal for all animals, including cats, because of their significant adverse affect on all areas of health. Parasites do their damage by interfering with digestive function, robbing the host of nutrients, depressing the immune system, and intoxicating the system by excreting waste products and toxic chemicals such as ammonia, which affect the intestines, liver, and kidneys.

Parasites are generally contracted from ingesting larvae from the soil, infected rodents, and/or fleas. They can be responsible for weight loss, a scruffy hair coat, anemia, poor appetite, and poor circulation. They also contribute to allergies and unhealthy skin.

What Kind of Parasites Can Cats Get?

Common parasites affecting cats include: roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Cats do not contract pinworms. Crowded shelter and stray cats, poorly nourished cats, sick cats, stressed cats, and cats with digestive problems are at highest risk for contracting parasites.

Roundworms

Roundworms (ascarids) are round, white to light brown, and can be up to 13 centimetres long. Roundworms are the most common parasite, especially in kittens. Adult cats ingest larvae from contaminated soil or from infected mice or other small mammals. Roundworms eggs are protected by a hard shell and can, therefore, exist in the soil several years.

Kittens can be born with roundworms if the larvae cross the placenta before birth. Nursing kittens can also ingest the larvae from milk. Kittens will have a pot-bellied, depressed appetite, dull hair coat and appearance and poor growth. Roundworms live in the intestines and consume the food that the cat eats. Larvae can encyst to the liver and can also travel to the lungs causing respiratory symptoms and are then coughed up or swallowed again where they hatch out in the intestines. Roundworms can be seen in stool or vomit.

Hookworms

Hookworms are smaller than roundworms and are not usually seen in the stool or the vomit. The hookworm lives in the intestines and attaches itself to the intestinal membranes with sharp teeth and suck the host’s blood resulting in blood loss and anemia. They live and reproduce in the small intestine and, like roundworms, can encyst to the liver and/or travel to the lungs. Adult cats can ingest hookworms from spoiled meat or contact contaminated soil whereby the larvae can burrow through the skin or feet. Hookworms are also passed to kittens through nursing. Hookworms can be a common cause of illness in older cats, resulting in low energy levels, weakness, poor immunity and weight loss. Unfortunately, we often erroneously blame these symptoms on old age.

Whipworms

Whipworms are wide at one end and taper off to a narrow head. They live in the large intestine where they bite the intestinal membranes and suck the host’s blood. They can cause bloody diarrhea in the cat but anemia is not as common as with hookworms. Whipworms are even smaller than roundworms and are also not often seen in the stool. However, the stool can be covered in mucus. Whipworms are also contracted from soil where they can lay dormant for years until consumed by a host. Whipworms can cause intermittent diarrhea, dehydration and weight loss. They are difficult to detect in the stool since they shed very few eggs.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are long, flat worms that can grow up to 10 to 15 centimetres in length and attach themselves to the small intestine of the host. They consist of multiple segments that grow onto the head and neck of the worm. Each segment has a reproductive section. Cats get tapeworms from ingesting fleas since tapeworm eggs develop inside fleas, or if they are frequent hunters they eat the abdomen of their prey and ingest the larvae during consumption. Tapeworm infections do not commonly cause observable symptoms but can appear as flat, rice-like segments around the anus. You may see segments left in places where the cat has been sitting. The tapeworm itself is still inside the intestines since it is not shed into the stool.

Heartworms

Heartworms are a variety of roundworm that are only spread by mosquitos, but not all mosquitos – only certain female mosquitos and under very specific conditions. The larvae slowly mature into worms as they migrate from the muscles to the pulmonary artery, heart, and lungs, a process which can take up 6 to 8 months. The heartworm lifecycle is very much dependent on temperature whereby the temperature has to be above 27°C (80°F) for over two weeks and over 14°C (57°F) for over six weeks. Thus, the only areas with a high incidence of heartworm is Florida and parts of Texas and Hawaii. And despite the hot temperatures in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia the incidence of heartworm there is relatively low. Symptoms may not appear for months until the heart is infected and can include coughing, fatigue, shortness of breath and poor immunity.

What Symptoms Does A Cat With Parasites Display?

Symptoms of parasitic infection can range from none whatsoever to mild to gravely ill. Common observable symptoms are diarrhea, vomiting, pot bellies, mild to severe coughing, increased appetite, weight loss, dull hair coat, scratching at the base of the tail, fatigue, anxiety, and lack of focus or poor immunity. Other symptoms include heart abnormalities and anemia which further depresses the immune system predisposing them to more infections – parasites or otherwise. Symptoms can be a result of encysted larvae or adult worms.

Which Tests Are Available to Detect Parasites In Your Cat?

Roundworm and hookworm are detected by a fecal flotation test where the eggs can be observed and counted. However, the fecal flotation is not a reliable test for either whipworms or tapeworm nor for encysted larvae. Encysted larvae are larvae that have migrated to other organs and encapsulated. Larvae can migrate to any other tissues or organs where they encapsulate themselves until they hatch into adult worms. So Cats can have long-term problems with parasites despite negative test results.

The common test to detect heartworms involves checking a blood sample for worm protein; however, there is also a DNA test now available which is more accurate. If your cat lives in a high-risk area test for heartworms every 3 to 4 months. But do not be duped into giving your cat monthly preventative drugs for a lifetime. Despite the fearmongering by the pharmaceutical industry, heartworms have a low incidence of killing cats. But the drug industry has marketed to thousands of veterinarians (and, therefore, millions of cat owners) to convince them that all healthy cats are at risk – even in low-risk areas – unless they use preventative medication. And this so-called preventative medication is an insecticide that kills larvae but can have multiple side effects including digestive symptoms and skin reactions. Chemical medications should always be kept to a minimum.

As with all intestinal diseases the best treatment of all parasites is prevention. Weaker, unhealthy cats attract illness and parasites while healthy cats with strong digestion and a strong immune system have a much greater resistance to all pathogens and parasites. A healthy intestinal immune system can destroy or eliminate parasitic larvae, including heartworm larvae, before they hatch out into mature worms or migrate into other organs. Research has also shown that a healthy colon ecosystem with healthy levels of probiotics can influence the lifespan of intestinal worms.

Natural Health Program for Cats with Parasites

The best prevention is to build resistance by maintaining a strong intestinal immune system. This is accomplished with a healthy diet, keeping stress to a minimum, regular cleansing, and well-selected supplements.

Diet

Ensure that the meat fed is “clean” and free of bacteria and other contaminants.

Be mindful of any food allergies and intolerances present in the diet that are continually straining the digestive processes and weakening the intestinal immune system. Avoid all foods which contain wheat or corn gluten.

Add fresh vegetables to your cats cooked or raw meat for extra fibre and roughage. Many vegetables are also a natural prebiotic – prebiotics help to produce more probiotics. If you are unfamiliar with feeding cats’ vegetables check out the blog Should Your Cat Eat Vegetables?

Recommended Supplement & Remedy Program:

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

Vitamin C helps to acidify the large intestine to increase parasite resistance and encourage the elimination of parasites and pathogens. It is a powerful immune nutrient and supports liver function.

Pro-Colon

Pro-Colon is a blend of live prebiotics and probiotics for intestinal support and healthy digestion. Probiotics discourage the growth of parasites, unfriendly bacteria and yeast. It promotes optimum absorption of nutrients and maintains a healthy intestinal immune system. Pro-Colon is kept refrigeration to ensure maximum potency

Immune Force

Immune Force is blended to support and promote optimum immune function in the kidneys, liver, and respiratory systems. It also promotes positive energy levels and acts as a detoxifier and cleanser.

Pumpkin seeds - crushed [1/8 tsp daily] – Pumpkin seeds are a natural anti-parasitic, and are a source of fibre and essential fatty acids to support digestive health.

*See the product links for recommended dosages by weight*

Parasite-Free Cats

As so often said, the best treatment for all diseases and health conditions is prevention. The same is true for parasites. A healthy digestive system, a strong intestinal immune system, good nutrition, a clean diet, regular exercise, and good quality herbal supplements to regularly detoxify and cleanse your cat will ensure that s/he maintains a low-risk lifestyle that prevents parasites, yeast, bacteria, and many other intestinal diseases.

[rivasremedies]

Does Your Dog Have Worms?

Undiagnosed parasites can be a big deal for all animals, including dogs, because of their significant adverse affect on all areas of health. Parasites do their damage by interfering with digestive function, robbing the host of nutrients, depressing the immune system, and intoxicating the body by excreting waste products and toxic chemicals such as ammonia, which affect the intestines, liver, and kidneys.

Parasites are generally contracted from ingesting larvae from the soil, infected rodents, and/or fleas. They can be responsible for weight loss, a scruffy hair coat, anemia, poor appetite, and poor circulation. They also contribute to allergies and unhealthy skin.

What Kind of Worms Can Dogs Get?

Common parasites affecting dogs include roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Dogs do not contract pinworms. Rescue dogs, puppies, poorly nourished dogs, sick dogs, stressed dogs, and dogs with digestive problems are at highest risk for contracting parasites.

Roundworms

Roundworms (ascarids) are round, white to light brown, and can be up to 13 centimetres long. Roundworms are the most common parasite, especially in puppies including rescue puppies. Adult dogs ingest larvae from contaminated soil or from infected mice or other small mammals. Roundworms eggs are protected by a hard shell and can, therefore, exist in the soil several years.

Puppies can be born with roundworms if the larvae cross the placenta before birth. Nursing puppies can also ingest the larvae from milk. Puppies will have a pot-bellied appearance and poor growth. Roundworms live in the intestines and consume the food that the dog eats. Larvae can encyst to the liver and can also travel to the lungs causing respiratory symptoms and are then coughed up or swallowed again where they hatch out in the intestines. Roundworms can be seen in stool or vomit.

Hookworms

Hookworms are smaller than roundworms and are not usually seen in the stool or the vomit. The hookworm lives in the intestines and attaches itself to the intestinal membranes with sharp teeth and suck the host’s blood resulting in blood loss and anemia. They live and reproduce in the small intestine and, like roundworms, can encyst to the liver and/or travel to the lungs. Adult dogs can ingest or contact contaminated soil whereby the larvae can burrow through the skin or feet. Hookworms are also passed to puppies through nursing. Hookworms can be a common cause of illness in older dogs, resulting in low energy levels, weakness, poor immunity and weight loss. Unfortunately, we often erroneously blame these symptoms on old age.

Whipworms

Whipworms are wide at one end and taper off to a narrow head. They live in the large intestine where they bite the intestinal membranes and suck the host’s blood. They can cause bloody diarrhea in the dog but anemia is not as common as with hookworms. Whipworms are even smaller than roundworms and are also not often seen in the stool. However, the stool can be covered in mucus. Whipworms are also contracted from soil where they can lay dormant for years until consumed by a host. Whipworms can cause intermittent diarrhea and weight loss. They are difficult to detect in the stool since they shed very few eggs.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are long, flat worms that can grow up to 10 to 15 centimetres in length and attach themselves to the small intestine of the host. They consist of multiple segments that grow onto the head and neck of the worm. Each segment has a reproductive section. Dogs get tapeworms from ingesting fleas or eating animals such as rodents that are infested with fleas since tapeworm eggs develop inside the fleas. Tapeworm infections do not commonly cause observable symptoms but can appear as flat, rice-like segments around the anus. The tapeworm itself is still inside the intestines since it is not shed into the stool.

Heartworms

Heartworms are a variety of roundworm that are only spread by mosquitos, but not all mosquitos – only certain female mosquitos and under very specific conditions. The larvae slowly mature into worms as they migrate from the muscles to the pulmonary artery, heart, and lungs, a process which can take up 6 to 8 months. The heartworm lifecycle is very much dependent on temperature whereby the temperature has to be above 27°C (80°F) for over two weeks and over 14°C (57°F) for over six weeks. Thus, the only areas with a high incidence of heartworm are Florida and parts of Texas and Hawaii. And despite the hot temperatures in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, the incidence of heartworm there is relatively low. Symptoms may not appear for months until the heart is infected and can include coughing, fatigue, shortness of breath and poor immunity.

What Symptoms Do Worms Cause?

Symptoms of parasitic infection can range from none whatsoever, to mild, to gravely ill. Common observable symptoms are diarrhea, vomiting, pot bellies, coughing, increased appetite, eating dirt, sand, or fabric; weight loss, dull hair coat, fatigue, anxiety, and lack of focus or poor immunity. Other symptoms include heart abnormalities and anemia (low iron) which affects energy levels and depresses the immune system predisposing them to more infections – parasites or otherwise. Symptoms can be a result of encysted larvae or adult worms.

Which Tests Are Available to Detect Parasites In Your Dog?

Roundworm and hookworm are detected by a fecal flotation test where the eggs can be observed and counted. However, the fecal flotation is not a reliable test for either whipworms or tapeworm nor for encysted larvae. Encysted larvae are larvae that have migrated to other organs and encapsulated. Larvae can migrate to any other tissues or organs where they encapsulate themselves until they hatch into adult worms. So, dogs can have long-term problems with parasites despite negative test results.

The common test to detect heartworms involves checking a blood sample for worm protein; however, there is also a DNA test now available which is more accurate. If your dog lives in a high-risk area test for heartworms every 3 to 4 months. But do not be duped into giving your dog monthly preventative drugs for a lifetime. Despite the fear-mongering by the pharmaceutical industry, heartworms have a low incidence of killing dogs. But the drug industry has marketed to thousands of veterinarians (and, therefore, millions of dog owners) to convince them that all healthy dogs are at risk – even in low-risk areas – unless they use preventative medication. And this so-called preventative medication is an insecticide that kills larvae but can have multiple side effects including digestive symptoms and skin reactions. Chemical medications may be necessary at times, especially for heavy loads, but these should be kept to a minimum.

As with all intestinal diseases the best treatment of all parasites is prevention. Weaker, unhealthy dogs attract illness and parasites while healthy dogs with strong digestion and a strong immune system have a much greater resistance to all pathogens and parasites. A healthy intestinal immune system can destroy or eliminate parasitic larvae, including heartworm larvae, before they hatch out into mature worms or migrate into other organs.

Research has shown that a healthy ecosystem in the colon supported by healthy levels of probiotics can reduce the numbers and shorten the lifespan of intestinal worms.

Natural Health Program for Dogs with Parasites

The best prevention is to build resistance by maintaining a strong intestinal immune system. This is accomplished with a healthy diet, regular cleansing, and well-selected supplements.

Diet

·         Ensure that all meat that is fed is “clean” and free of bacteria and other contaminants.

·         Be mindful of any food allergies and intolerances present in the diet that are continually straining the digestive processes and weakening the intestinal immune system. Avoid all foods which contain wheat or corn gluten.

·         Add fresh vegetables every day for extra fibre and roughage. Many vegetables are also a natural prebiotic – prebiotics help to produce more probiotics.

 Recommended Supplement & Remedy Program

 ·  Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) – give one dose daily for 2-3 weeks. Vitamin C helps to acidify the large intestine to increase parasite resistance and discourage parasites and pathogens. It is a powerful immune nutrient and supports liver function. https://rivasremedies.com/shop/animals/dogs/symptom/allergies-immunity/vitamin-c/

·  Pumpkin seeds crushed [one teaspoon for every 4.5 kilograms of bodyweight] – Pumpkin seeds are a natural anti-parasitic and are a source of fibre and essential fatty acids to support digestive health.

·  Para+ Plus, tincture. Feed Para+Plus tincture to promote resistance to parasites. Para+Plus supports the intestines and digestive health and helps to address overgrowths of yeast and bacteria. It is a natural detoxifier that supports liver function and a strong immune system. https://rivasremedies.com/shop/animals/dogs/symptom/ear-infections/para-plus-tincture/

·         Pro-Colon is a blend of live prebiotics and probiotics for intestinal support and healthy digestion. Probiotics discourage the growth of parasites, unfriendly bacteria, and yeast. It promotes the absorption of nutrients and maintains a healthy intestinal immune system. Pro-Colon is kept refrigerated to ensure maximum potency. https://rivasremedies.com/shop/animals/dogs/symptom/allergies-immunity/pro-colon/

Parasite-Free Dogs

As so often said, the best treatment for all diseases and health conditions is prevention. The same is true for parasites. A healthy digestive system, a strong intestinal immune system, good nutrition, a clean diet, regular exercise, and good quality herbal supplements to regularly detoxify and cleanse your dog will ensure that s/he maintains a low-risk lifestyle that prevents parasites, yeast, bacteria, and many other intestinal diseases.

For more information and extensive information on diet, nutrition, and natural health programs for all health conditions,  include a copy of Healing Dogs Their Way.

Marijke van de Water, B.Sc., DHMS Animal Health & Nutrition Specialist

Homeopathic Practitioner Medical Intuitive & Healer  Educator & Author

Marijke is a life-long animal lover, the author of Healing Dogs Their Way, and the founder, formulator, and CEO of Riva’s Remedies. She is a gifted healer who has helped thousands of pets live happier, healthier lives.

[rivasremedies]

Do Horses Love Garlic?

The History of Garlic

Garlic is one of the oldest known foods and has been consumed by humans for several thousand years dating back to 2600-2100 BC. Its roots began in China, Japan, and Korea. From there it migrated to the coasts of the Mediterranean Sea and then Great Britain. Today, it is one of the most popular medicinal foods in the world. Garlic is used across the globe, including India, Egypt, and Israel, for its nutritional and culinary value, as well as its medicinal properties. Close relatives to garlic include onion, shallot, leeks, and chives.

Garlic for Nutrition

Garlic, which is categorized as a vegetable, contains high levels of sulphur and vitamin B1 (thiamine), both of which nourish the skin. And because Vitamin B1 changes the body odor, it is a popular addition to supplements to help resist or repel insects including flies and ticks. Garlic also contains the essential minerals of calcium, phosphorus, manganese, and selenium, as well as a high content of Vitamin C. There is also germanium in it; a lesser known but still important mineral with antioxidant properties that heals wounds, strengthens the immune system, and has been used in cases of cancer.

Garlic as Medicine

Garlic contains allicin, a phytonutrient which breaks down to form a variety of organosulfur compounds, compounds which give garlic a number of therapeutic effects. Garlic is widely used for bacterial infections, yeast infections, viruses, colds, flus, immune problems, respiratory conditions, toothaches, abscesses, a lack of appetite, and low vitality. In war-time Russia, garlic was known as “Russian penicillin” because it was so effective in treating wound infections. In more recent times we have learned that garlic is also an effective blood thinner and helps to reduce high blood pressure as well as cholesterol. There is also an association between the intake of garlic and the reduction of certain cancers.

All this considered, garlic makes an excellent tonic.

Garlic is also thought to ward off ghosts and negative energies and can be used for those people or animals who are prone to attracting entities that deplete their life force.

Garlic as Horse Medicine

It seems that everyone is passionate about garlic! There are garlic lovers and there are garlic haters. Especially when it comes to feeding it to horses! In fact, one of my Facebook posts on garlic was in the top ten posts ever for record engagements. Whew! That’s a lot of passion over garlic. The conversation went on for days.

Garlic lovers see a lot of positive changes in their garlic-eating horses. Garlic can help horses with digestive upsets, leaky gut, respiratory problems, infections, skin problems, and overall malaise. It is also an excellent general detoxifier. Garlic can also be used as a poultice on abscesses, wounds, and joint infections.

What The Studies Say

Some horse folks are fearful to feed garlic because of its reported effects on red blood cells. But studies are sparse and often unreasonable and inconclusive. One study showed that high quantities of garlic over several weeks can lead to anemia, i.e., a reduction in red blood cells. The study included four horses and two of them were controls which meant that only two horses ate the garlic which was fed in freeze dried form. These two horses were given .1 grams/kg of body weight (approximately 45 grams in total) every day to start which was then gradually increased to .5 grams/kg (approximately 227 grams in total) of garlic over 41 days. This higher dosage was then continued for another 30 days for a total of 71 days.

This means that a one-thousand-pound horse would have been fed the equivalent to 7 medium cloves of raw garlic for the first 6 weeks and then up to 38 medium cloves of raw garlic for another month!

And so, perhaps of no surprise, after 2-1/2 months of these toxic doses the horses’ blood work showed a type of anemia called Heinz body anemia but no other visible signs of physical symptoms or other health problems. Symptoms of anemia can include fatigue, muscle weakness, loss of appetite, pale gums, and yellowish eyes. In any case, within 5 weeks of discontinuing the garlic, all of the blood work returned to normal.

Link to resource: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15822591/

Another study used 250 grams per day on 1,000-pound horses with the same results.

Now I don’t know about you, but I don’t know why any sensible horse person would feed their beloved horses these kinds of toxic dosages. It defies common sense. Few vegetables or plants would NOT be toxic if fed in this way. It’s all about the dose. Horses are very sensitive and do not need to be overdosed with anything for it to work.

According to the National Research Council in 2008, a presumed safe intake for horses is 90 mg/kg (= .09 grams) of body weight per day (6 raw cloves) and a historically safe intake is 15 mg/kg (.015 grams) of body weight per day (1 raw clove).

Meanwhile Health Canada has approved garlic for all equine supplements, with a precaution to not feed to any horses with a bleeding disorder. Fair enough.

Garlic as People Medicine

The effects of garlic on red blood cells are not exclusive to horses, it has the same effects on humans, and dogs too. In fact, it is these chemical properties that make it such an excellent antioxidant to improve circulation and reduce blood pressure. And so, while some people may be nervous about its supposedly adverse effects on horses, many of these same people are eating lots of garlic for themselves. But no one is worried about the same potentially toxic effects on people because they are focused on the benefits. In fact, the world production of garlic for human consumption is over 25 million tons! That’s a lot of garlic!

My own mother took garlic every day for many years and credited it for her strong immune system. Good thing she didn’t live in ancient Greece though, the authorities of the time forbade anyone who smelled like garlic from entering their sacred temples.

How to Feed Garlic to Horses

Horses are also garlic lovers and garlic haters, although most of them really like it. They must know that garlic has a long history of helping people and animals with its nutritional, medicinal, and therapeutic benefits. So, we side with both the horses and Health Canada and highly recommend it for equine medicinal purposes where indicated. But like all medicinal herbs and supplements, it should only be given if the benefits are obvious, and of course it should not be given over long periods of time as in months or years. A shorter duration will not only prevent any kind of toxic effects, but it will avoid desensitization where the body no longer responds to it in a positive way. Most herbs or supplements, if given for longer than is needed, will lose their potency. So, it is always best to use herbal plants or vegetables temporarily as indicated for specific situations.

The Garlic Equine Dosage

Raw garlic is the best and most potent form. Feed 2-3 medium or large cloves daily for 2-3 weeks or less if the condition improves. And if your horse doesn’t like the taste or stops eating it take that as a sign that your horse is finished with it. My own horses let me know when they have had enough because they start to flip the cloves out of their dish. This is usually after about 2 weeks of 2-3 garlic cloves per day. Horses know best!

~ Stop and Smell the Garlic ~

Marijke van de Water, B.Sc., DHMS

Equine Health Nutrition Specialist Homeopathic Practitioner Medical Intuitive & Healer Educator & Author

Marijke is a life-long horse lover, the author of the best-selling Healing Horses Their Way, and the founder, formulator, and CEO of Riva’s Remedies. She is a gifted healer who helps horses, and their people, from around the world live happier, healthier lives.

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Should Your Cat Eat Vegetables?

Posted by Darla Cameron on 2021 Sep 17th

Cats Are Carnivores

It’s true; cats thrive on a high protein lifestyle. They are defined as obligate or hyper carnivores which means that many of the nutrients that they require are found only in animal flesh. The vitamin and mineral content they require from meat is specialized and without it they will not meet the basic requirements to live.

While obligate carnivores might be able to ingest small amounts of plant matter, they lack the necessary physiology required to fully digest it. We can see that this basic tenant holds true when looking at a cat's digestive system; they have the shortest digestive tract compared to body size then almost any other land mammal adapted to digest meat. Unlike omnivores and herbivores, they do not need a long hindgut for the fermentation process to take place and to break down the tough cellular wall of plant fibre.

So, why should I add vegetables to my cats diet?

There are 3 primary reasons:

1. Let’s first consider the cat-mouse relationship. If you have an outdoor or mixed indoor/outdoor cat you can almost see the ear-to-ear grin when they catch a mouse! This is an ancient biological predator/prey relationship that is accepted among the mice and the cats no matter how brutal it may look to us. Every cat is entitled to their opinion but generally speaking cats find mice absolutely delicious. And each one of the cat’s organs works together to digest these little rodents with very little stress on the cats’ digestive system.

In addition, mouse fur is an insoluble fiber which aids the cat’s digestive process. And it also provides minerals because of the dust and dirt that is on the fur collected from their environment. The fur also acts as an anti-parasitic by scraping the intestinal wall. So, you can see that the entire mouse is in perfect harmony for a cat’s meal.

But how many mice or other prey species does your cat actually eat? Perhaps some or none at all. Needless to say, most of our domestic cats do not eat mice or other small prey animals as their primary diet. The fibre and minerals from the fur and the plant matter from the mouse’s stomach that is consumed fresh, is replaced with highly processed commercial food that may or may not take into consideration the need for moisture, fibre, and minerals.

2. The second important point is that the modern diet for cats lacks living food. The majority of cats are eating dry kibble and canned food. Both are shelf stable for our convenience and the animal meat now in a bag or a can is de-natured by high-heat processing and chemical preservatives. The addition of sugar, salt and artificial odors are used to attract and hook your cat into wanting more. These packaged foods may have added minerals, vitamins, fibre, and protein but it is not living. Furthermore, there is no guarantee that your cat will assimilate the minimum requirement from these added vitamins and minerals.

The most common health conditions that arise from a de-natured diet are feline urinary issues such as bladder stones, crystals in the urine, and urinary tract infections, along with diarrhea, constipation, parasites, poor skin and coat conditions, and obesity.

3. Our cats are also exposed to increasing toxicity from domesticated practices including the chemicals we have around us in our homes and yards. These environmental toxins also require more nutrition, moisture and especially fibre, to offset their negative impact; fibre is an excellent detoxifier. Environmental toxins are implicated in allergies, respiratory issues, nervous system dysfunction and liver and kidney failure.

Back to the Vegetables...

So, without further delay, we can see how important it is to introduce vegetables as a food-based supplement to compensate for what your cat is not able to get any other way because they are in a domesticated setting.

Benefits of feeding vegetables include:

Provides an extra source of water to a cats diet which is often lacking because of the dehydrating effects and higher salt levels in dry foods and kibble.

Provides more potassium to balance the high salt levels in dry food and meat.

Safely and effectively detoxifies the elimination organs, such as the kidneys, liver, and colon.

Vegetables are high in essential vitamins, including Vitamin A, C, and E and minerals such as Magnesium and Calcium.

The plant kingdom is here for us all, including cats, to heal, restore and feel nourished. Vegetables have powerful healing properties, and they deserve a lot of praise. No wonder cats enjoy nibbling on leafy greens, even zucchini and seaweed!

What types of vegetables do you feed cats?

There are many healthy vegetables to choose from including winter squash, zucchini, carrots, peas, steamed broccoli, spinach, steamed asparagus, green beans, sweet potato, yam, and potato. Fruits such as melons, bananas and blueberries are beneficial in small portions.

Is my cat going to like vegetables?

The question of how to get your cat to eat vegetables inevitably comes up. Cats do not like surprises. A cat's survival and happiness depends on being able to predict what is going to happen with a stable and consistent environment. Sameness equals safety and comfort. This also applies to their food and more specifically the texture. If the texture changes that can be a red flag to them indicating something has happened to their meal to make it unsafe. They may turn up their nose and look at you with wide eyes while questioning what happened to their meal? This is then followed by a demand to know why you served them this foreign, potentially dangerous substance.

How to Prepare Cat-Friendly Vegetables

Start by steaming and pureeing the vegetables to mimic the look and texture of what they are used to. They typically expect food to be smooth like pate or chunky like the stews you find in canned foods. The brassica family (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale) may be more difficult to introduce because it has a strong smell. But cats are as unique as the next and yours may love them.

For cats who have never had vegetables before, introduce them slowly in very small amounts and gradually increase. The easy road to success is to start them early by introducing your kittens to all cat friendly fruits and vegetables. They will be lifelong foodies! And remember, keep an open mind because if you feel resistance they will too.

Overall Health

To improve their overall health and to ensure they are getting all the vitamins and minerals they need for a shiny coat, healthy skin and nails, and an optimum immune system consider adding Happy Pets or Happy Pets Senior. It is a high quality, all-natural plant based herbal supplement. These blends are an excellent source of added nutrition that can be mixed in with their current food.

 Happy feeding and exploring new food groups with your feline family members!

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Magnesium: An  Essential Nutrient!

Magnesium is required for the normal  function of every cell in the body. It is necessary for muscle and joint  health, metabolism, energy levels, and a healthy nervous system. It is  therefore an extraordinary mineral for horses since they need a lot of  support for both their muscle function and their stress levels.

Since grass and hay do not usually  provide enough magnesium to meet their daily requirements, horses are often  deficient. But your equine partner doesn’t need to be deficient in order to  receive the numerous benefits of magnesium; like all minerals, magnesium,  when provided in therapeutic dosages, can help horses with a variety of  different health conditions.

3 Benefits of Supplementing  Horses with Magnesium:

1) Bone and muscle function

Sixty percent of tissue magnesium is  located in the skeleton. It is essential for maintaining healthy bones by  initiating the chemical pathway for calcium absorption.

2) Conditions of the nervous  system

Magnesium supports the nervous system  by regulating neurotransmitters and facilitating nerve transmission. It is  also heavily involved in managing the stress response by supporting healthy  production of cortisol from the adrenal glands.

3) Sugar metabolism and energy  production

Magnesium is also very important for carbohydrate or sugar  metabolism. This can be especially beneficial for horses that are easy  keepers or horses that are Insulin Resistant or have Cushing’s Syndrome  (PPID).

How do I know if my horse needs Magnesium?

What factors can lead to a Magnesium deficiency?

What type of Magnesium should I feed?

Read the full blog on our website for more information!

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Osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia, cruciate ligament tears and more are ALL too common in all ages of dogs. And neither pain relievers or nutraceuticals have offered solid solutions. But what if we told you that these conditions are not an inevitable consequence of breed or age? And that these health problems are due to degeneration caused by the acid effects of diet along with mineral deficiencies. Read more here to learn how the underlying cause(s) of your dog’s joint problems can be addressed to get them back running and playing like youngsters!

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Eliminate Sweet Itch and Seasonal Insects from your horse’s life

If you have a sweet itch horse, then you know how awful it is to watch them frantically itch and rub looking for anything to give them a moment of relief. Just imagine how painful it is to be so intensely irritated and itchy and not be able to scratch with your hands! You would find any way possible to get to those hard to reach spots. Our horses are no different; you will find them rubbing on anything they can find from fences to trees to stall doors. They will even drop to the ground to rub their bellies back and forth in the dirt.

It is incredibly hard for them to deal with never mind how awful it looks to see their haircoat, mane and tail rubbed out, and in some cases rubbed raw. Most dedicated horse owners will spend hundreds of dollars on emptying litres of fly spray on their horses every season, only to be spending more money on fixing fences. So, before you open your pocketbook and start spraying for another season let me share another approach.

Before we jump right into the solution lets be clear about what causes Sweet Itch and why some horses are more prone than others, so we understand why the protocol I am going to give you in this article works so well.

What is sweet itch?

“Sweet Itch” is also often referred to as “summer eczema” and is caused by a hypersensitivity to insect bites - usually flies, mosquitoes and especially biting midges (“no-see-ums”).

Why do some horses get it so bad and some don’t?

Sweet itch and insect sensitivity is caused by poor immunity and damaged skin, which is why some horses have much more trouble with insect reactions than their mates. Sensitive horses not only attract more bites but have actual allergic reactions to those bites which is why they experience increased pain and itching.

Insects are no different than any other predator and they will prey on the weak

The skin has a protective layer known as the acid mantle, a layer of lactic acid that protects the skin from bacteria, parasites, insects and infections. But the acid mantle can be damaged by diet, poor nutrition, stress, poor immunity, blood toxins or food allergies, predisposing them to inflammation, infection, various skin conditions, and increased hypersensitivity to insects. The opportunistic blood-sucking insect is very attracted to this weakened condition.

The most logical approach to resolving sweet itch is to build up the immune system and heal the skin

Having first-hand experience with a severe “sweet itch” horse myself, we wanted to formulate a product that would not only provide relief but that would address the underlying cause. We knew the key to eliminating sweet itch was to neutralize their allergy reactions so we had to formulate something that would detoxify their blood, liver and lymph system, restore the acid mantle, and build up resistance to insects from the inside.

The safest and most effective solutions start with diet and natural medicine

After a bit of research and experimentation we found the winning combination. Riva’s Summer Tincture and Vitamin C worked so well not even I could believe it! Fifteen years and thousands of happy horses later, our customers still swear by it.

Many of our customers use the Riva’s Healing Oil for external use as well. If your horse has open sores from scratching it will help expediate healing and will provide a little extra help repelling the insects. It is an incredible formula in its own right and is safe and natural so you and your horse won’t have to breathe in all those chemicals either.

This combination of herbal tinctures and nutrients is truly the most effective solution for sweet itch we have come across. It has offered SO many horses’ permanent relief, so they can now continue to enjoy their summers focused on spending time with their human instead of looking for objects to scratch on.

Recommendations:

Riva’s Remedies Summer Tincture contains Calendula, Echinacea, Linden, Thyme and Yellow Dock. Combine with vitamin C. Give 1 tsp daily. Supports the immune system, neutralizes allergy reactions, maintains skin health.

Riva's Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) 1 tsp daily (=5,000 mg) Promots a healthy immune system, is an important skin nutrient and supports liver function.

Riva’s Healing Oil is an amazing blend of Goldenseal and Tea Tree Oil. It is formulated to accelerate healing from insect bites, open sores, wounds and skin rashes. Spray on to the affected areas. The flies will hate the smell of it, but we love it!

See our Sweet Itch Product Special.

Diet Tip: In addition, sweet itch horses should not be given any high sugar feeds or grains (such as oats, barley, corn, sweet feed) nor added fats as these foods will intoxicate the liver, compromise the immune system and aggravate allergy reactions.

Marijke van de Water, B.Sc., DHMS Equine Health & Nutrition Specialist Homeopathic Practitioner Medical Intuitive & Healer Author & Educator

Marijke is a life-long horse lover, the author of the best-selling Healing Horses Their Way, and the founder, formulator, and CEO of Riva’s Remedies. She is a gifted healer who helps horses, and their people, from around the world live happier, healthier lives.

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Pets & Homeopathy - Part I

Homeopathy is a big deal. It is the second most widely-practiced type of medicine in the world today and is practiced by millions of health professionals. It is a very sophisticated type of medicine that addresses a variety of different health conditions. Perfect for all animals, no matter the breed or the age, it is safe, effective, and is reasonably priced.

Read Part I of my blog and learn up-to-date facts and information: Homeopathy For Pets.  https://rivasremedies.com/blog/homeopathy-for-pets/