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Basilicata: Authentic Italy ~ Book Review

Basilicata: Authentic Italy ~ Book Review

Author Karen Haid holding her book Basilicata: Authentic Italy Karen Haid kept me spellbound as I recently finished reading her fascinating book, Basilicata: Authentic Italy. Here she shares her intimate experiences throughout the southern region of Italy, getting to know the culture, the land, and the warm hearted people who occupy it in a deep and personal way. Clearly a place of many…

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Italy's Abandoned Churches ~ What Happens to Them?

Italy’s Abandoned Churches ~ What Happens to Them?

Small abandoned Church in Tuscany

While driving through Tuscany I couldn’t help but pull off the road to snap a shot of this old abandoned church. It was small, but very ornate. As I surveyed the facade, I wondered how many abandoned churches there were in Italy. As the stronghold of the Catholic Church, it’s not surprising that Italy has thousands of churches. I read recently that it is…

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Why I Love Southern Italy

Why I Love Southern Italy

Baia, just north of Naples, combines antiquity with modern

When I dream of Italy, I see myself wandering along the shimmering Bay of Naples.  A mountainous backdrop rises up to meet a baby blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds. I inhale the salty sea smell mingled with driting aromas from restaurants passed along the way.  A gentle breeze tugs at my hair as I watch several white boats skim the…

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Good Government Vs Bad Government; Lorenzetti's 14th Century Depiction Remains a Timeless Warning

Good Government Vs Bad Government; Lorenzetti’s 14th Century Depiction Remains a Timeless Warning

I love to spend time observing artwork in Italy, from ancient frescos and sculptures up through the Renaissance masters. One of my very favorites is in the Tuscan town of Siena. On the main piazza named the Campo, stands the medieval Palazzo Pubblico, the old town hall. Inside is the Sala della Pace (Hall of Peace) also known as the Sala dei Nove (Salon of Nine or Council Room). Painted on the…

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We arrived at Country Hotel Bosco Ciancio inside Sicily’s Etna Park, passing down a long and wooded driveway, the kind that makes you hold your breath because you know something special is waiting on the other end. What we saw gave us that ‘fairytale cottage in the forest’ feel as the driveway opened up into a clearing with a long stone and wood building, complete with a black iron gate.

We parked the car and walked through the chill of an early October evening into a stone courtyard divided by a patch of green grass with a gnarled old olive tree at one end. At the other end was a wide rock terrace dotted with small umbrella tables. Soft lights began to glow around the courtyard as darkness crept over the land. We stood there, enveloped in a realm of rustic enchantment.

Alberto, the proprietor of the hotel, met us inside with a warm reception. He explained that the hotel was a part of the ancient estate of Baroni Ciancio, duke of Adrano. The old stone villa was thoughtfully and authentically restored into the hotel it is today on 74 acres of chestnut, oak, pine and birch forests.

The hotel encompasses fifteen rooms gathered around a central courtyard. Each room is tastefully yet simply decorated with warm colors, wood beams, and terracotta tiles. Alberto is still adding some small embellishments throughout the building. We found our room with attached bathroom very comfortable. The romantic ambiance of the courtyard and terrace aglow at night from our panoramic balcony view was lovely.

Alberto has put some personal touch into this particular room with a local Chestnut tree headboard.

Dinner was served in the small and cozy on-site restaurant Alloro later that evening. The generous set menu included a good variety of food options that Alberto took time to describe. It was difficult to choose so we relied on his suggestions which proved to be delicious. It was immediately apparent that he had a top-notch chef working in the kitchen. Alberto shared some of his expansive knowledge of Sicilian wines and we took him up on his recommendation of a local red.

We began the next day with a hearty breakfast of both sweet and savory options prepared by the friendly and accommodating staff.

The weather was sunny so we took our plates out onto the terrace and enjoyed the freshness of a new day.

The cable cars to Mt. Etna are just a 20-minute drive further up the road. We drove it the next morning and passed small groups of chestnut pickers filling their bags. As we neared Mt. Etna, the landscape became dark and covered with cinder ash everywhere. Large outcroppings of lava rock rose in spots, evidence of the last volcanic eruption.

We parked our car and took a cable car up to the gift shop and panini/café bar. Although there were off-road vehicle tours, we opted to walk some of the trails leading upward. Ladybugs seemed to be everywhere, which seemed strange but refreshing at the same time. Even though the dark results of a natural disaster lay all around us, these delightful little bugs brought a good dose of life back into the landscape.

The panoramic views provided an exhilarating experience and extended out over the sea. If you choose to join a tour, the Mt. Etna guides will take you as close to the active volcano as the local safety regulations will allow. Several external craters can also be viewed.

Back at Bosco Ciancio, Alberto took us on a one-mile walk along a trail that wound through the chestnut forests. We passed a clearing lined with about 40 hives of bees busily gathering nectar.

Beekeepers are hired to bring hives in every spring for about 5 months to gather pollen and make honey. Some of it is left with Alberto and served at breakfast in the morning. It has a slight nutty-chestnut taste and very delicious!

Country Hotel Bosco Ciancio is an experience in nature that is tranquil and soothing. I could have easily spent my three days right at the hotel, sipping café on the terrace, reading in the sunshine, or walking the forest trails.

However, the hotel is ideally located to Mt. Etna as well as the seaside towns of Taormina, Siracusa, and Catania along the eastern coast. You will need your own car to navigate about. We picked up a car rental for our time in Sicily from the Catania airport upon arrival.

A warm welcome by the multi-lingual staff combined with the serenity of the forest and comforts of home easily put Hotel Bosco Ciancio on my list of great places to come back to. Not to mention that chestnut honey…

Things to do nearby –

Mt. Etna is only a 20-minute drive away and is the highest active volcano in Europe at over 10,900 feet. Cable cars will take you up close to the craters where you can take an off-road vehicle tour, hike, or ski in the winter. Snow usually appears in December. Check out this website for more info – http://funiviaetna.com/en/

Mountain biking and hiking trails will immerse you in the lush vegetation of Etna’s volcanic soil within the park.

Take a day trip and visit the ancient Greek cities of Siracusa and Ortygia, only 98 km away. If you love architecture, history, and a seaside village ambiance, this is the place for you. For sightseeing and learning more about the fascinating history of Ortygia or Siracusa, I highly recommend tour guide Marco Sanzaro at http://www.personal-turist-assistant.it/  Catania and Taormina also make great seaside escapes.

Save a day to hang at Hotel Bosco Ciancio for a tranquil, peaceful experience nestled in the beauty of Mt. Etna.

Seeking Adventure on Sicily’s Mt. Etna? Make Hotel Bosco Ciancio Your Perfect Stay We arrived at Country Hotel Bosco Ciancio inside Sicily's Etna Park, passing down a long and wooded driveway, the kind that makes you hold your breath because you know something special is waiting on the other end.

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Wine and Liquors, Secrets of the Monks of Padua

Wine and Liquors, Secrets of the Monks of Padua

Abbazia Di Praglia-( photo taken from website http://www.praglia.it )

Grey afternoon skies hung low over the countryside surrounding Padua, about a 40-minute drive west of Venice. I had just driven ten kilometers southwest of town to arrive at my destination, the Abbazia Di Praglia, a Benedictine community of monks. Nestled at the feet of the Euganean hills, along an ancient road leading to the…

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Easter Wishes

St. Peter’s Basilica September 2014 Rome

My steaming cup of freshly brewed coffee begins to awaken me as I gaze out the window of my living room in Oregon. Sunlight brightens a blue morning sky and spills down over the valley, bringing life to the tall evergreens and farms that dot the rolling landscape. I can see the coastal mountains at the end of the horizon, standing like guardians over the…

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Roman Skies

Enjoy my photos of the skies of Rome taken one September while strolling the eternal city.

Rome, sweet Rome!

Statue of Castor taming a horse in the Piazza Quirinale

Morning breaks over Rome

Blue sky fights with the clouds over St. Paul Outside the Walls

Roman Beauty

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The Griffon and the Guelph Lion of Perugia

The Griffon and the Guelph Lion of Perugia

  Legendary animal symbols in Italy intrigue me and they usually impart some meaning to a particular place. While visiting the lively city of Perugia in Umbria, I saw the Griffon and the Guelph Lion bronzes, medieval symbols of Perugia, as I entered the impressive gothic Palazzo dei Priori near Piazza IV Novembre in the historical center. It is a beautiful medieval building made into a museum of…

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A Colorful Evening in Trastevere, Rome

A Colorful Evening in Trastevere, Rome

To my delight, I found myself once again in Trastevere on a warm night in September. I had just arrived in Rome to meet up with a blog tour as one of the participants. We gathered to celebrate our kick-off for ten days of traveling in bella Italia to explore some charming tucked away places.

Located on the west bank of the Tiber River and south of Vatican City, Trastevere has a spirited medieval…

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Mastroberardino Restores the Ancient Wines of Pompeii

Mastroberardino Restores the Ancient Wines of Pompeii http://wp.me/p32is8-1Cb

Mt. Vesuvius Towers Over a Newly Planted Vineyard in Pompeii

Mastroberardino Winery has been introducing an incredible new concept to the wine world. With a long-standing family commitment of retaining the antiquity of their wine region of Campania in southern Italy, the archaeological superintendent of Italy has given Mastroberardino full rights since 1996 to discover and implement the ancient…

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Magic is alive in Italy and the vast majority of it is found in the medieval walled hilltowns that dot the landscape. The preservation of tradition, the old ways, and the  ancient sites lead directly to the heart and soul of a community. It is here that one begins to truly understand the Italians and their culture.

I arrived in Castiglion Fiorentino on a late Fall day as the sun began to cast shadows over the land. The small Tuscan city looked enchanted, touched by the waning sun’s golden glow. Located between Arezzo and Cortona, it is a small walled city on a hill that is known for its annual festivals and ancient Etruscan sites. Tradition runs deep here and there resides within the locals a fierce loyalty and pride for their community, past and present.

After passing the Porta Fiorentina, one of the three old original gates to the walled medieval town, I found Residence Le Santucce, the expansive stone convent which would be my lodging for the next few nights. Seriously impacted by WWII, it rose huge and austere in appearance yet artistically embellished to provide a sense of welcome.

Over the next few days I discovered Castiglion Fiorentino to be every bit as charming as I expected, and more. The entire historical district is easily accessible by foot and well worth the stroll. Here are a few of my favorite things that left me with a good sense of what Castiglion Fiorentino is all about, not to mention the warm and friendly people.

First was the Porta Fiorentina, which leads into the historic center of town. Massive wooden doors stand open at the old archway and quickly give one a sense of feeling quite small. Originating from the 13th century, it has stood the test of time and witnessed many human affairs. The colorful Palio dei Rioni, a horse race similar to Siena’s Palio, has been held the 3rd Sunday of June since 1977 near the Porta. Horses race around Piazza Garibaldi, preceded by an extraordinary parade of flag wavers, dames, knights, and musicians.

Next is the Cassero Tower, part of the old castle, which stands at the top of the town.  It is a legacy of the Perugian domination in the mid 1300’s. While under their authority, the Casseretto, a small fortress inside the larger Cassero, was built with accompanying high walls that are partially collapsed today. The Caseretto was the last defensive bulwark built. Within was found a well thought to be essential to the survival of the people during a long siege. Large amounts of majolica and glazed pottery remains have been found during excavations which assumes a good number of artisans in the area at the time.

If you love medieval and renaissance art, you will enjoy the art gallery, or pinacoteca, which is very close to the Cassero Tower. It is housed inside the old church of Sant’Angelo and contains religious art collected from the local monasteries and churches. Famous painters with works on display include Taddeo Gaddi and his Maestà from 1328, Bartolomeo della Gatta’s paintings Saint Michael Archangel (1480) and Stigmata of St. Francis (1486). There is also a fine display of medieval jewelry in the sacristy (that I’d love to play with).

Castiglion Fiorentino has produced many Etruscan artifacts through excavations that are housed in the Archaeological Civic Museum near the pinacoteca. The museum also has an interesting display of precious ancient and renaissance majolica ceramics as well as relics from the middle ages.

Fronting the Piazza del Commune, the central square, is the nine arch Le Logge Vasariana. It is a renaissance arcade next to the town hall that provides an elegant filter between the Piazza and the lush Val di Chio below. The panoramic views are astounding.

Architect to Grand Duke Cosimo I, Georgio Vasari built the loggia during the early 1500’s when the Medici coat of arms was placed outside the walls. Interesting to note are the pillars and moldings of the stone arches from the white plastered base which displays the Florentine tradition developed by Filippo Brunelleschi, whom Vasari knew well. It is adorned by the coats of arms of the town podestà (mayors) and commissioners.

Some of the arches of the loggia overlooking the valley have been walled in to protect  markets in the piazza from the wind.

Below the town and only a few miles away stands the 10th century Castello di Montecchio, perched on a hill. It is stunning to look at and easy to photograph. The turreted walls, the tower, and parts of the mansion can still be seen along with the well-preserved surrounding walls. It is one of the last and most authentic medieval fortresses left in Tuscany. Once given to the British mercenary John Hawkwood, it is now privately owned and used for special events.

What about you? Have you had the pleasure of exploring one of Italy’s unforgettable hill towns? What was your impression? I’d love to hear your thoughts so feel free to leave a comment below.

Click here to learn more about Castiglion Fiorentino.

      The Charisma Of Castiglion Fiorentino Magic is alive in Italy and the vast majority of it is found in the medieval walled hilltowns that dot the landscape.

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A Peak at Marina di Portofino

A Peak at Marina di Portofino

The small, elegant harbor of Portofino in Liguria has long been a haven for the rich and famous. Sapphire colored waters rimmed by pastel-painted buildings makes this fishing village and holiday resort magnetic. Known during the early Roman era as Portus Dolphini, attributed to the many dolphins on the coast during that time, Portofino has been a sought-after playground for centuries. Steven…

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Rome's Pantheon...Did You Know?

Rome’s Pantheon…Did You Know?

Michelangelo described the famous Pantheon in Rome perfectly after seeing it for the first time in the early 1500’s when he said it was “an angelic and not a human design.” The architecture is mind-blowing and incredibly devised. Built by Emperor Hadrian in 120 AD, it is the best preserved ancient Roman monument as well as a testament to the ingenuity of the early Romans and their fascinating…

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What Does 'La Dolce Vita' Mean To You?

What Does ‘La Dolce Vita’ Mean To You?

La Dolce Vita, the sweet life, is a term I’ve grown to love because it embraces all that life should be. Ordinary everyday life is meant to be lived only a moment at a time, savored and cherished with a grateful attitude. For me, time spent with my family and friends over good food and conversation is the very best way to feel fully engaged in the moment. But La Dolce Vita means more than that.…

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What is My Favorite Place in Italy? Let Me Tell You...

What is My Favorite Place in Italy? Let Me Tell You…

As a travel writer who specializes in Italy, I often get asked the question, “what is your favorite place in Italy?” Honestly, that is a very hard question to answer. Italy has 20 regions of unique and wonderful beauty. Each is so different from the other. It is impossible for me to say that just one place is my dream destination.

So what I decided to do is include some of my favorite photos of…

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Buon San Valentino ~ Happy Valentine's Day

Buon San Valentino ~ Happy Valentine’s Day

It’s February already, and thoughts of love are circulating through my mind. Red hearts, candy kisses, chocolate cupcakes with pink frosting, and romantic cards seem to pop out at me everywhere I go. I love Valentine’s Day because, as a typical woman, I love romance. What could be more heart-pounding than to imagine yourself as Audrey Hepburn in ‘Roman Holiday,’ zipping around Rome on a Vespa…