Hey! Since it seems like goth women's fashion is a lot easier to find examples of and information about, I've decided to create a short visual guide to a good, basic look you can do as a male or masc goth! Note that this is intended as a guide for more casual, everyday wear; for a fancier goth style, like a vampire or Victorian goth look, this might not be the right guide.
For a good, basic, every day casual goth look, here's what I like to do.
Let's start with shoes. I typically wear black Dr. Martens with platforms. They can be bought new or used, and I recommend real leather, as it's much longer lasting and more environmentally friendly. But Docs are expensive. If they're not in your budget, any similar black boot will do. You can also get creative and do a different kind of black boot, or, if you manage to get your hands on some, a pair of winklepickers (also known as goth pikes) are a classic look!
The next thing to look at is pants. You'll probably want a nice, simple pair of black jeans. I would recommend skinny jeans, but if they're not comfortable or you don't like the look, a pair of straight or athletic jeans, or anything else should work! That being said, I'd stick to black (or something else that you feel looks gothy). Normal or ripped are both great!
After that, a completely optional step is a belt or several layered belts (black if possible). Not everyone wears them, but one or more edgy belts are another classic look with a deathrocker vibe. Some fun options are belts with chains and O rings, studs, or bullets. A wallet chain is also an option.
Over that, a classic staple in any goth wardrobe is a black goth band shirt. This is a way to show you know the music, look cool, and support bands you love - many bands make the majority of their profits as musicians from merch!
One thing you can do, especially for a more tradgoth or deathrocker look, is to add either fishets or a layer or two of ripped tights as sleeves under the t-shirt. Not everyone does this, but it's a fun element for extra flair. If you go with fishnets, I recommend getting tights and simply ripping or cutting a hole in the crotch rather than buying a shirt, because it's much cheaper, and because the ripped look is cool.
On top of that, you'll probably want a jacket. Some people wear trench coats. Some people wear a black denim vest or jacket with patches, studs, or spikes (again, this is more common among deathrockers). Some wear a black leather jacket; it could be new or vintage, real or pleather, and plain or covered in painted band logos/patches/spikes. Some even wear distressed sweaters. Most goths prefer black, regardless of what you go for, and if it's got spikes or patches, most goths DIY them rather than buying them like that. Patches are another way to show off your love and support for bands.
You may also want to add jewelry. Some goths wear a lot of creepy rings. Many wear chokers or necklaces, and often layer them; some classic ones are rosaries, ankhs, and bats. Many goths of all genders and sexualities also wear black nail polish. If you choose to wear facial piercings, avoid tribal ones. They're culturally appropriative and will alienate marginalized people and lead to people getting upset with you.
If you have hair, you have several options for styling it. Most goths choose to dye their hair black, but some may bleach it, keep it natural, or color it. Some may even choose to wear different wigs for different occasions. How you style it is up to you, but many choose to style it by backcombing/teasing it, applying a strong hairspray (got2be Glued is typically the most recommended), and using a hair dryer to make it stay in place (there are several tutorials for this on YouTube). Alternatively, you can simply leave it long (this is a less classic look, but many goths do it). Many, especially deathrockers like to style their hair in a deathhawk, which is a mohawk or crest hairstyle with backcombed hair. (There is some debate about whether this is culturally appropriative or not. I've met someone online who claimed to be from the Kanien'kehá:ka Tribe (the indigenous name for the tribe) who told me they don't consider it appropriative because the original hairstyle involves plucking, not shaving the hair, and involves a certain amount of ritual and spiritual significance; this person also said they don't think it should be called a Mohawk because it's not the same hairstyle as the one associated with the tribe. That being said, I'd never met them before and don't know if they were being honest with me. I've also met a white person who sent me an article by another white person who claimed to have asked members of the same tribe, who said they do consider it appropriative. If someone who is actually from the Kanien'kehá:ka culture would like to tell me what the consensus is, or if there even is one within the culture, I would appreciate it.). I've also see goths with any number of styles that involved shaving various parts of their heads, so you can also just go wild with the clippers and see what happens. A tower (a style in which the sides and back are shaved and the top is styled to stick up) is also an option. Just be aware that something that involves backcombing and hairspray is a lot of work to be doing on a daily basis and can damage your hair; using extensions instead may help protect it. If you have textured hair, many Black goths tease or comb it into various styles. The important thing with many looks is that it has body and sticks up, that it has shaved parts, that it's generally edgy, or some combination of those traits at play. When in doubt, look to goth icons like Robert Smith and Dave Vanian for inspiration, or simply try to look as much like a vampire as you can. Or, you can look at modern goth artists, like Twin Tribes, Male Tears, and She Past Away!
Most goths (even cis, straight men) wear some amount of makeup, although it's not necessary if you don't want to. A basic beginner look may just be black eyeliner and/or eyeshadow smudged around the eyes. If you'd like the get creative with it, some contouring, black or red lipstick, or more elaborate eye makeup may be in order. You can imitate women's looks or do something more elaborate; I'll make a separate post for that. Goth makeup often focuses on looking gaunt and pale, but this is not because goth has always been for skinny, white people (it's never been just for them); it's more that the goal when goth makeup became a thing was to look like a corpse. Being pale and being skinny are not requirements. Looking dark and edgy is the goal, not looking conventionally attractive.
Doing all or most of these things will give you a good, basic goth look, and with just a few band shirts, you'll have a solid wardrobe to work with that doesn't have to be expensive. Remember, goth fashion has always been pretty androgynous, so don't be afraid to borrow ideas from goth women as well! If you're able to spend time around other goths or follow them on social media (Goth Dad is an influencer who has his own goth male fashion tutorials that are worth looking at, and others like Sweeney DeVille and James from the band Male Tears have good tutorials for things like hair and makeup), you'll pick up on more ideas, and can even get creative on your own!
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