#waistcoats for all

[badassindistress]

Hi!

I desperately want to make myself a waistcoat (or ten), but where I live doesn't have a lot of the more traditional materials I see listed for waistcoats. I was wondering if you might be able to either give me a guide for what qualities to look for in materials for the parts (i.e. lining, back, front) or just say what materials should be used for each part as a rule so I can gear up for an expensive overseas purchase.

Thank you so much, I hope you have a glorious day!

Hi!

I very much support you in your wish to make yourself many waistcoats. And there's fewer barriers here than you think. Sure, wool suiting and silk and horsehair canvas make a beautiful tailored waistcoat, but if you don't have access to that it's fine! (I've never managed to get my hands on horsehair canvas... someday...)

There are a few guidelines, more for your sanity than anything else:

Nothing too light or delicate, it will tear

Stretchy makes it a vest and will give a very different look

Nothing too prone to fraying unless you have access to and patience for anti-fraying methods

So, within those guidelines there's a lot of space. Historically, the backs were generally white linen, in modern times I see a lot of black polyester.

I’ve used old sheets and curtains for my waistcoats:

The front is a very fancy curtain I got secondhand, the back is cheap synthetic polyester and the inner lining is an old sheet.

If you have money to spend on this, lightweight fusible interfacing (here it’s called vlieseline but I don’t know if that translates) is a good investment. You just iron it on your front fabric to give the whole thing more body. It allows you to use much lighter fabrics for your front.

So, for the back: anything goes, but old sheets are particularly suitable. Polyester satin works fine for a shiny modern look, i think one of my old ones has my dad's jeans under the thin polyester to give it durability. (Not exactly a recommended method, but It'll do in a pinch)

for the interlining: fusible interfacing if you can get it, but the same fabric as the back sewn to the front fabric works as well. I use the back fabric as lining too.

For the front: something pretty that can take a bit of strain in the buttons. Silk and wool are great, but I’ve made some nice ones with polyester taffeta or cotton-polyester mixes. You don’t need a whole lot of this fabric, especially if you’re thrifty with only using a litttle bit of it on the lining, just so the part that falls open only shows the pretty fabric:

This top was only a size or two above mine, but i could just about get a waistcoat out of it. Might be an option for you too, if fabric is hard to come by but clothing isn't.

I hope this was helpful to you, sorry it got so long. I hope you get to make many lovely waistcoats!

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