#undergravel filtration

[aquariuminfobureau]

With any substrate, things like phosphates, iron, and ammonia come to be gradually and naturally concentrated at the bottom. This is why reddish cyanobacterial blooms happen on the substrate, sometimes, in even marine tanks with perfect water parameters. Its also why the sudden, physical stirring of an established substrate, can rapidly affect the water chemistry as reported by test kits; when 'bad stuff' is immediately sent upwards in the water column, and thus back into solution, because formerly percolated chemicals and particles have been disturbed.

The way in which the saturated substrate has different chemical parameters to the water column up above, means that - for example - the phisphate levels of the aquarium water can suddenly (and negatively) be affected, should the substrate become disturbed, usually by the activities of the aquarist. Needless to say, any such stirring of the substrate must be regular and small scale, for example through the activities of 'live sand' infauna, and those of larger, burrowing ornamental animals, such as shrimp, gobies, echinoderms, and gastropods.

A similar misunderstanding of a substrate involves freshwater tanks, and the fear that 'muck' or detritus in the substrate makes undergravel filtration ineffective. In reality such detritus holds well the beneficial nutrients, that plants require and are able to access with their root systems. Dirty gravel or sand is thus excellent for plant growth, and coarser grains trap more wholesome muck. As with marine tanks, and for the same reason as described above, substrates should not be disturbed large scale if it can be avoided, whether or not an undergravel filter happens to be employed in the tank.

The accumulation of detritus within a gravel or sand substrate, and the processes and products of its decomposition, are (as they say) a rather integral working or feature, and not at all a ‘bug’ to be avoided. Aquaria cannot be spotless, and vacuuming activities should only ever be done lightly, or not at all - and if done at all, then only lightly spruced, and only from the surface of the sand or gravel. It is important that only the surface of the gravel should be disturbed if at all, or its utility for natural biofiltration will be compromised.

Returning to the subject of substrates and filtration; in marine aquariums, but rarely in freshwater tanks, people sometimes advocate what are called 'anoxic plenums' beneath the substrate - the so-called 'Monaco method'. The whole point is that, unlike the workings of undergravel filtration systems, water is not at all pumped through the space, making it a stable volume or 'void space' of water, that is deprived of dissolved oxygen - constituting a plenum. Plenums were once a huge idea in reefkeeping, following the famous aquarium scientist, Jean Jaubert.

However, it seems that the idea of the often imitated Monaco system, is actually based on misunderstood observations of phenomena taking place in aquariums, that have other scientific explanations. Related to the facts and fallacies surrounding the dubious plenum method, is the popular notion that sufficiently deep beds of sand used as a substrate, are in themselves similarly beneficial, thus rendering the creation of a plenum superfluous. Typically associated with marine and especially reef aquaria, these methods have some advocates as regards freshwater tanks.

Where water flow is absent throughout the substrate, there is a risk, however slim, that organic material might end up decomposing deep in the substrate, in a way producing accumulations of bacterial toxins alongside noxious smells - and a possibility that there could be mortalities should this filth be released unto desirable organisms. I have only ever experienced such smells after disturbing a settled substrate, and yet fortunately, there were no mortalities despite a sudden and downward shift in my water quality, that distressed the fish - you should get the picture by now, not to disturb the substrate, wether it is being used as a filter medium or not.

Now returning to the subject of plants in freshwater aquaria. Vascular plants (or tracheophytes) access nutrients via their roots, and natural selection has furnished different plants with different root systems for this purpose. Plants such as Echinodorus and Cryptocoryne are heavy root feeders, equipped with long and deeply penetrating roots, Such plants do better when they are planted in gravel than on sand, because gravel traps detritus better. A reverse flow variant of the undergravel system, would actually help to bring nutrients to the living and feeding plant roots.

[fangirltothefullest]

Thinking about buying the undergravel filtration set and replacing the top filters with the rotational bubbler things my dad always used for my fish tank so the substrate gunk van actually reach the filter.

Cause right now the filter isn't grabbing half of what it should because it's all stuck in the substrate below but maaaaaybe if it can grab everything by sucking it from beneath the substrate where it sinks it'll help the omnipresent algae problem.

Dad never had this issue with his tank (high alkalinity in previous water caused a beard algae infestation we could NOT be rid of.... but that was the poor water quality we had no control of at the time it was fine until then) but he had a really good setup like this so I'll bet you this is a good place to start. Everything else I've tried has failed and i dont think its from overfeeding because it happened even when i fed them way less, so im guessing the issue is a combination of poor substrate filtering, that my padticular glo tetras prefer a higher temperature than previous fish which promotes algae growth, and that the LED lights of this tank are bright enough to promote plant growth too.

On the other hand, my plants are doing OK but the algae is trying to smother them so I think they'll do better with the addition of the filter. I think they'll thrive better if they're not having their light depleted with algae cover.

[s2vmarinelife-2023]

Best Aquarium Filter

Best Aquarium Filter: Enhancing Your Marine Life's Health and Beauty

Ensuring Clean Water for Your Aquatic Friends

Having a thriving aquarium with vibrant marine life requires more than just setting up a tank and adding water. One of the most crucial components for maintaining a healthy aquatic environment is the choice of the best aquarium filter. A high-quality aquarium filter not only keeps the water clean but also ensures the well-being and longevity of your underwater companions.

The Role of Aquarium Filters

Aquarium filters play a pivotal role in maintaining a clean and healthy aquatic environment. They remove impurities, toxins, and debris from the water, imitating the natural filtration processes that occur in oceans and rivers. By keeping the water quality optimal, aquarium filters create a comfortable and thriving habitat for your marine creatures.

Types of Aquarium Filters HOB Filters (Hang-On-Back Filters)

HOB filters are popular among beginners due to their simple installation and maintenance. They hang on the back of the aquarium, drawing water through a mechanical filter to trap debris and particles.

Canister Filters

Canister filters offer superior filtration for larger tanks. They operate by forcing water through various filter media, providing efficient mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration.

Sponge Filters

Sponge filters are gentle and ideal for tanks with fry or small, delicate species. They function through air-driven circulation, promoting biological filtration by cultivating beneficial bacteria.

Undergravel Filters

These filters are placed beneath the substrate, using uplift tubes to create water flow. While they offer biological filtration, they may require regular maintenance to prevent clogging.

Biological Filters

Biological filters are essential for establishing a healthy nitrogen cycle. They consist of porous materials where beneficial bacteria thrive, converting toxic ammonia into less harmful substances.

Factors to Consider When Choosing an Aquarium Filter

Tank Size and Volume

The filter's capacity should match the tank's volume to ensure effective filtration. An undersized filter can lead to poor water quality and stressed marine life.

Filtration Mechanisms

Consider a filter that offers mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration for comprehensive water purification. Each mechanism targets different impurities, ensuring a well-balanced ecosystem.

Maintenance and Ease of Use

Regular maintenance is vital for filter longevity. Opt for a filter with accessible parts, easy-to-change media, and clear instructions for hassle-free upkeep.

The Importance of Filtration in Marine Life Health

Nitrogen Cycle and Water Purification

Aquarium filters play a key role in the nitrogen cycle, which converts ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate. This cycle helps maintain safe ammonia levels, preventing harm to your marine inhabitants.

Removal of Debris and Toxins

Filters remove uneaten food, waste, and other debris that can deteriorate water quality. They also eliminate harmful chemicals, such as excess nitrate and phosphate.

Setting Up Your Aquarium Filter

Installation Steps

1. Rinse the filter media to remove excess dust.

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembly.

3. Place the filter in the designated spot on your aquarium.

Proper Placement

Position the filter where water flow is evenly distributed throughout the tank. Avoid strong currents that may stress your marine life.

Regular Maintenance of Your Aquarium Filter

Cleaning Schedule

Create a cleaning routine that includes rinsing mechanical media and replacing chemical media as needed. Regularly check for clogs and signs of wear.

Replacing Filter Media

Change filter media gradually to avoid disrupting the nitrogen cycle. Monitor water parameters after media changes to ensure stability.

Troubleshooting Common Filter Issues

Low Flow Rate

Low flow may indicate a clog in the filter media. Clean or replace the media to restore proper water circulation.

Noisy Operation

A noisy filter could result from air trapped in the system. Ensure all connections are secure and the filter is properly primed.

Leakage Problems

Inspect O-rings and seals for damage. Lubricate them with aquarium-safe silicone if necessary.

Enhancing Filtration with Additional Strategies

Live Plants as Natural Filters

Live aquatic plants absorb nutrients that contribute to algae growth, providing a natural form of filtration.

Beneficial Bacteria Boosters

Supplement your filter with beneficial bacteria products to boost biological filtration and maintain water clarity.

Advanced Filtration Techniques for Large Aquariums

Protein Skimmers

Protein skimmers remove organic compounds that contribute to water cloudiness. They are particularly beneficial for saltwater aquariums.

Fluidized Bed Filters

These filters fluidize fine sand or another media to create a breeding ground for beneficial bacteria, enhancing biological filtration.

Conclusion: Investing in the Well-Being of Your Marine Life

Choosing the best aquarium filter is a crucial investment in the health and vibrancy of your marine habitat. Proper filtration ensures clear water, a balanced ecosystem, and happy aquatic inhabitants. By considering factors such as tank size, filtration mechanisms, and maintenance needs, you can create a thriving underwater world for your marine companions.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: How often should I clean my aquarium filter?

A: It's recommended to clean the filter media as part of your regular maintenance routine, which is typically every 2-4 weeks.

Q: Can I use multiple types of filters in one aquarium?

A: Yes, combining different filter types can provide enhanced filtration. Just ensure they complement each other without causing excessive water flow.

Q: Do I need a filter for a small aquarium with few fish?

A: Yes, even small aquariums benefit from filtration to maintain water quality and prevent waste buildup.

Q: Are UV sterilizers a replacement for filters?

A: No, UV sterilizers primarily target microorganisms. They can be used alongside filters for comprehensive water treatment.

Q: How do I know if my filter is the right size for my tank?

A: Refer to the manufacturer's guidelines, which often provide recommendations based on tank volume and inhabitants.

[newlifekeys]

Types of Aquarium Plumbing Systems

There are several types of plumbing systems commonly used in aquarium setups. These systems are designed to circulate water, provide filtration, and maintain the overall health of the aquarium environment. Here are some of the main types of aquarium plumbing systems:

1.     Overflow System: An overflow system is one of the most common types of aquarium plumbing. It uses a combination of an overflow box or weir and a sump tank to maintain a constant water level in the main display tank. The overflow box collects water from the tank, which then flows through a pipe into the sump tank. From there, it is filtered, heated, and returned to the main tank.

2.     Canister Filter System: A canister filter system consists of a sealed canister or container that houses various filtration media. The water is pumped into the canister, where it passes through the filtration media, which can include mechanical, biological, and chemical filter media. The filtered water is then returned to the aquarium.

3.     Wet-Dry Trickle Filter System: fish tanks for sale Melbourne A wet-dry trickle filter system, also known as a sump filter system, involves water flowing over a series of filter media in a sump tank. The water is first drained from the main aquarium into the sump tank, where it is filtered and then returned to the tank. The filter media in a wet-dry system provides both biological and mechanical filtration.

4.     Undergravel Filter System: An undergravel filter system consists of a plate or grid placed on the bottom of the aquarium, with uplift tubes attached. The water is drawn down through the gravel bed by an air pump or powerhead, and the gravel acts as both a mechanical and biological filter. The water is then returned to the tank through the uplift tubes.

5.     Internal Filter System: An internal filter system is a compact filter that is placed inside the aquarium. It usually consists of a pump that draws water through a filter media cartridge, providing mechanical and biological filtration. Some internal filters also include additional features such as water circulation or surface skimming.

6.     External Filter System: An external filter system, also known as a canister filter, is placed outside the aquarium. It uses hoses to draw water from the tank into the canister, where it passes through various filter media and is then returned to the aquarium. External filters are often larger and more powerful than internal filters, making them suitable for larger aquariums or setups with higher filtration needs.

These are just a few examples of the types of plumbing systems used in aquariums. The choice of plumbing system depends on factors such as the size of the aquarium, the type and number of fish or other aquatic animals, the desired filtration capacity, and the overall setup goals.

[s2vmarinelife1]

What's The Best Aquarium Filter For My Fish Tank?

Introduction

When setting up a fish tank, one of the most crucial components you'll need is an aquarium filter. A good filter ensures the water in your tank remains clean and healthy for your fish. But with so many options available, how do you choose the best aquarium filter for your fish tank? In this article, we'll explore different types of aquarium filters and discuss important factors to consider when making your selection.

Understanding Aquarium Filtration

Before diving into the specifics, it's essential to understand the purpose of aquarium filtration. Filtration plays a vital role in maintaining water quality by removing waste, chemicals, and excess nutrients from the tank. It helps to create a stable and balanced environment for your fish, promoting their overall health and well-being.

Importance of Choosing the Right Aquarium Filter

Selecting the right aquarium filter is crucial for several reasons. Firstly, it ensures the removal of harmful substances that can harm your fish. Secondly, it helps maintain water clarity, preventing the build-up of debris and algae. Lastly, a proper filter supports the nitrogen cycle in the tank, where beneficial bacteria break down toxic ammonia into less harmful substances.

Types of Aquarium Filters

Undergravel Filters

Undergravel filters are placed beneath the gravel substrate in your tank. They work by pulling water through the gravel, where beneficial bacteria colonize and break down waste products. Undergravel filters are affordable and efficient for small tanks but may not be suitable for heavily stocked aquariums.

Canister Filters

Canister filters are external filters that provide excellent mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. They consist of a canister filled with filter media and a water pump to circulate water. Canister filters are known for their high filtration capacity and are ideal for larger tanks with a significant fish population.

Hang-On-Back (HOB) Filters

HOB filters are easy to install and are suitable for both small and large aquariums. These filters hang on the back of the tank and draw water through a cartridge or filter media, providing mechanical and biological filtration. HOB filters are compact, affordable, and offer efficient water circulation.

Sponge Filters

Sponge filters are air-driven filters that use a sponge as the primary filtration media. They provide gentle filtration and are suitable for breeding tanks or tanks with delicate fish species. Sponge filters are affordable, easy to maintain, and provide a surface for beneficial bacteria to thrive.

Internal Filters

Internal filters are compact filters that are fully submerged in the aquarium. They offer mechanical and biological filtration and are suitable for smaller tanks or as supplemental filtration in larger setups. Internal filters are easy to install, affordable, and provide adequate water circulation.

Wet/Dry Filters

Wet/Dry filters, also known as trickle filters, offer excellent biological filtration by exposing the water to the air. They consist of a chamber filled with filter media and a drip tray where water trickles down. Wet/Dry filters are ideal for larger tanks with a high bio-load, as they provide ample oxygenation and support beneficial bacteria growth.

Factors to Consider When Choosing an Aquarium Filter

When selecting the best aquarium filter for your fish tank, keep the following factors in mind:

Tank Size and Capacity: Consider the size and capacity of your tank, as different filters are designed for specific volumes of water.

Filtration Capacity: Evaluate the filtration capacity of the filter, ensuring it can handle the waste produced by your fish.

Maintenance Requirements: Assess the maintenance needs of the filter, including cleaning and replacement of filter media.

Noise Level: Consider the noise level of the filter, especially if you have the tank in a quiet environment.

Cost: Determine your budget and find a filter that offers the best value for your money.

Making the Best Choice for Your Fish Tank

To choose the best aquarium filter for your fish tank, consider the factors mentioned above and match them to your specific requirements. It's important to find a filter that suits your tank size, filtration needs, and budget. Consult with knowledgeable aquarium experts or do thorough research before making a final decision.

Conclusion

Selecting the right aquarium filter is crucial for maintaining a healthy and thriving fish tank. By understanding the different types of filters available and considering factors such as tank size, filtration capacity, and maintenance requirements, you can make an informed decision. Remember to prioritize the well-being of your fish when choosing the best aquarium filter for fish tank.

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[aquariuminfobureau]

If you were British in the 1990s, and entering the world of marine aquariums, the chances are you had read something by Nick Dakin. And especially The Book of the Marine Aquarium, from 1992. Nowadays this formerly iconic tome, as well as it's author, are denigrated, but is the book that bad? If it was, we will need to explain why Julian Sprung, no less, wrote a foreword for Dakin. To take a look inside is to see a piece of aquarist history, for this was written in quite a transitional era, between the old and new views of the tropical marine aquarium.

This once veritable tome starts off with an introduction to the animals kept in reef aquariums, to water chemistry, and to the technology allowing the aquarium itself. Diagrams illustrate to the novice, the basic principles involved, including this introduction to the reverse flow form of undergravel filtration. Nowadays it seems strange that any book on saltwater tanks, would mention undergravel filtration any deeper than in passing.

Blennies are an iconic clade of saltwater fishes, and naturally enough they are popular in coral tanks. The author thoughtlessly refers to all blennies as 'ideal' regarding 'invertebrate compatibility'. Excepting in an appendix page, where he rightly warns against buying Exallias brevis, a species known to be an obligate coralivore.

Knowing that at least one blenny eats corals, might have cautioned the author against such a hasty generalization that blennies are 'ideal' in coral tanks. Very few blenny species are strictly algivorous to detrivorous, and many of them will nip at sessile animals as well. Worse still, some individuals seem to show this habit more than others, and some individuals of the same species may not bite polyps or mantles at all.

The bicolor blenny, Ecsenius bicolor, actually is a grazer that preferentially eats microalgae, but can also eat coral tissues, however infrequently and faculatively. I have seen such behaviors in the grazing Ecsenius sp. and I can only conclude it is natural behavior for them. Whereas there are zooplanktivorous blennies classes in the same genus, such as the accompanying E. midas, that do not graze microalgae at all, and will never nip corals.

For that reason E. midas is of course useless as an algae control agent, the promise of which is one reason why the benthic blennies are so often purchased and placed in coral tanks. Generally though, it should be assumed that blennies have this instinct, not least because even blennies such as E. bicolor, that are ecologically quite strict algivores or detrivores, are observed to do so.

The pages about blennies also feature one species each of Salarias and Atrosalarias, genera of benthic, detrivorous blennies, that do not faculatively bite coral flesh. Retrospectively, a curious omission is the nowadays ubiquitous genus Meiacanthus, which does not consume sessile organisms at all. In this the book shows it's age, because they were not often seen in British home aquariums in the 1990s.

As one might expect, all of the great clade of butterflyfishes are painted as unsafe with corals, and with other sessile animals. Yet this evolutionary group are not all such grazers. The Chelmon and Forcipiger genera are marked by long, jointed faces, evolved through natural selection for probing into crevices for small, benthic prey.

Butterflyfishes adapted to eating corals have short faces and stronger bite forces, to tackle firmly attached coral flesh. Long faced butterflyfishes cannot even bite coral polyps, and are thus appropriate for coral tanks. For the same reason, C. forcipiger cannot possibly eat Aiptasia polyps that are too large to fit in its maw. Of course, this book is older than that piece of folklore.

Wrasse are a successful group of fishes and especially so in tropical seas. Yet they vary in their ecological niches, with implications for their suitability in home aquariums. A hogfish is described as becoming incompatible with non-vertebrates with age. In fact even small hogfishes will consume ornamental arthropods, and yet as adults they will not bother coral colonies, for example.

What is an 'invertebrate' in this context? There are countless, dissimilar animals in that historical, defunct category. What exactly is 'reef safe' when a coral reef is a food web? The author does not use that word, doubtless because he was writing in the early 1990s, but its the same, basic concept that he calls 'invertebrate compatibility'. Whatever it is called, the concept is useless and conveys nothing

Come the turn of the crabs, the author is writing before 2000, so he doesn't make mention of Clibanarius, Paguristes, or Calcinus, all of them small and harmless scavengers or algivores. Especially in the UK, the modern reef keeping hobby had not yet emerged, and invertebrates thus had to be showier to be of interest. Here a page features a large hermit crab of the genus Pagurus, carrying a symbiotic sea anemone, alongside a spider crab from the Western Atlantic including the Caribbean, the intriguing Stenorhynchus seticornis.

The text surrounding S. seticornis is interesting for regarding bristleworms as pests. In fact they are helpful for their scavenging behaviors, and it feels strange that anyone was ever paranoid about them. The reason why is made explicit - all bristleworms were assumed dangerous because of a coralivorous species, Hermodice carunculata.

S. seticornis is a benthivorous foragers, equipped only with very small 'claws' and can scarcely harm fishes as some people falsely claim. They may be a danger to small snails and hermit crabs, as well as sometimes probing into polyps to steal their food. Oddly despite sharing the page with a crab and anemone pair, no mention is made of S. seticornis as a fellow symbiote of sea anemones. Nor of the charming habit this species has, of setting up friendly 'cleaning stations', as do certain fish and shrimp, to access the skins of visiting fishes, and forage their ectoparasites as food.

Though the author features a few species of snail, the popular top snails, ceriths, and scavenging whelks of today are not among them. He tells us that whelks, wholesale, have no place in the reef aquarium, despite the helpfulness and harmlessness of the charming Nassarius sp. in countless reef tanks.

Conches are represented by two large species, instead of the smaller relatives now commonplace. An adjacent page features a tiger cowrie, an animal not traded very often today, though they used to be a common sight. Nowhere else, than in its treatment of the gastropods molluscs, does the book feel so dated in retrospect. There are no Turbo, no Trochus, and no 'Astraea'.

The pages on echinoderms feature some obscure taxa, in this case the motile crinoids or sea-lilies of the genus Heterometra. These are fragile animals to touch, and the aquarist must be very careful with them during transportation and acclimatization.

However the problem is they arrive starved of food, with little chance of recovering. Incidentally these are zooplanktivores, trapping particles up to 0.4 millimeters in size. We can certainly provide them appropriate food particles in the aquarium, but almost always, they still starve.

The pages on echinoderms predictably lean toward eye-catching species, like the red-knobbed starfish, the sea apple, and a long-spined sea urchin. The same focus of course, exists among the pages dedicated to the fishes, though compared to most earlier books, there is more emphasis on fishes smaller than 10 centimeters, or 4 inches, such as a good variety of the dottybacks.

As is not uncommon with pre-2000 British texts, the book makes some mention of native, British marine fish and invertebrates. Although the scope of this section is limited, it is a whole section, tucked away towards the back of the book. Nonetheless it feels almost an afterthought tacked on, these small sections are about the only information that is available, to those wishing to combine the aquarium hobby with rockpooling.

Although it is curiously presented as an appendix rather than a chapter, unlike the pages on coldwater marines, there is a section of the book dedicated to macroalgae. A topic most books do not pay much attention to, although planted tanks are so mainstream in the freshwater side of our hobby. 'Macro' possess a good diversity of growth forms and might be grown in certain aquariums, where corals can't. They also metabolise wastes produced by animals, and from scraps of uneaten food. That and a tank of live seaweed is stunningly beautiful and alien in its own right.

This appendix is not the only interesting thing about this book, which shouldn't be disregarded today, as often as it nowadays is. But there's no question its of limited informational use to the modern reefkeeper, not least for the limited information about the corals. Some of what are nowadays ubiquitous species in the trade, can also feel conspicuously absent from these pages. But little of the content is questionable or incorrect, that isn't repeated ad nauseum even today.

[successfulaquarium]

Undergravel filter vs Power filter- which is the best

Every filter comes with its benefits and downsides for different tank types. If you’re stuck between deciding what’s best between an under gravel filter or a power filter, here’s detailed information that will help you make the right choice and according to your preference. 

  The Undergravel filter

  The Power filter

Undergravel filter or power filter?

First off, overall, power filters are very, highly superior to undergravel filters. 

At least, the vast majority of fish keepers think so. 

The reason being that: 

Undergravel filters don’t perform impressively when it comes to filtering larger tanks. 

Undergravel filters are easy to set up; however, it’s a little laborious, as you must complete the setup process before you can lay the substrate. 

Undergravel filters require less cleaning than power filters, but cleaning them can be more wearisome.  Undergravel filters do not support just any kind of rooted plants, and in some cases, you may find it hard to ensure the stability of anything that sits on the tank’s bottom. 

Power filters (also called a hang on back filter) are undoubtedly the most used filter by many aquarium fish keepers. They suitably support medium-sized tanks, as these filters can filter water in a way faster than it’s under gravel counterparts.

Undergravel filters

Power filter

Mode of operation This type of filter comes with a reasonably simple design. As with its name, undergravel filters are placed under the gravel of the tank- which controls the filtration process. 

This filter has plates that connect to the tubings. As the filter pulls the water, the gravel works as a natural filter- it traps the toxins and sustains beneficial bacteria. 

The tubing accommodates the freshly-filtered water and transports it upward into your aquarium. This filter might require an air pump because it allows water to circulate consistently. 

If you’ve ever bought one of those small, cheaper aquarium sets before, it usually features a power filter. Power filters are not installed inside the tank but at the back of the tank.

Here’s how a power filter works: 

This type of filter allows water circulation through a pump. The pump allows the entry of water into a filtration chamber. The clean water is sent back into the tank via tubes. 

Power filters are averagely priced, simple to install, and because of where they are placed, they won’t suck up much space. 

Most power filters enable you to store other type of filters- paving the way for a better filtration process. 

Maintenance In terms of aesthetics, if you’re looking for a filter that won’t fault your tank’s view or you don’t like machinery, and several tubing, a pretty simple choice would be an undergravel filter. However, if you dislike several minutes of cleaning or don’t have much time, know that it takes some time to clean an undergravel filter- you must thoroughly vacuum the substrate every week, as it houses the filtered waste.  If your tank is larger or heavily stocked, we recommend going for a power filter because of its quality- it takes some time for a larger amount of water to purify, but a power filter does a quick, thorough and effective job.  Price Undergravel filter is cheap. You can purchase a decent one for as low as $20 or less.  Power filter is expensive, You can purchase from $20 to $50  Filtering capabilities  Undergravel filters are inarguably the cheapest filter types on the market. They are super easy to set up, perform surprisingly well, and are uniquely created to support small fish tanks. Your undergravel filter is useful if you own a tank that is undemanding- regardless of whether it is a quarantine tank, breeding tank, or a regular betta fish tank. Unlike the undergravel filter, you cannot submerge a power filter; else they won’t work. However, a power filter will never interfere with the interior of your tank- not only does this filter save spaces, but they are also a safe option for your plants and fish, which won’t get trapped inside. The major concern with power filters is cleaning-you have to disassemble them every few days to remove build-up, and you must replace the filter as soon as it performs less.  What you should be aware of Some undergravel filters come with carbon cartridges that stay at the head of the lift tubes. They can be harmful. 

These cartridges lack enough carbon to provide the right level of chemical filtration, if your filter is run using an air pump, enough water is not moving through the carbon to give the proper chemical filtration, plus the carbon will prevent or even stop the smooth flow of water through the filter. Make sure you’re aware of this. 

Remember, as with most filters, make sure you replace the carbon in the filter regularly, as saturated carbon may contain waste and release toxins. 

Introduction to list of Undergravel filter and Power filters

Undergravel filter: Top Selected Products and Reviews

Bestseller No. 1

Penn Plax Premium Under Gravel Filter System - for 40-55 Gallon Fish Tanks & Aquariums, Blue (CFU55)

Undergravel filter system includes 4...

Filter is suitable for most 40 and 50...

$16.50

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Bestseller No. 2

Penn Plax Premium Under Gravel Filter System - for 29 Gallon Fish Tanks & Aquariums

Includes filter plates, air Stones,...

Provides powerful biological and...

$13.99

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Bestseller No. 3

Penn Plax Premium Under Gravel Filter System - for 10 Gallon Fish Tanks & Aquariums

Includes filter plates, air Stones,...

Provides powerful biological and...

$9.95

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Bestseller No. 4

Lee's 50/65 Premium Undergravel Filter, 18-Inch by 36-Inch

Country Of Origin: United States

Item Package Height: 16.5

$69.99

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Last update on 2020-08-24 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Power filters: Top Selected Products and Reviews

SaleBestseller No. 1

Marineland PF0350B Penguin Power Filter, Upto 75 Gallons, 350 GPH

WITH ROTATING BIO-WHEEL: Patented...

MULTI-STAGE FILTRATION: Delivers...

$22.60

Buy on Amazon

Bestseller No. 2

Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B)

15 foot power cord

Illuminated ON/OFF switch

$35.99

Buy on Amazon

Bestseller No. 3

Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel Power Filter 150 GPH, Multi-Stage aquarium Filtration

WITH ROTATING BIO-WHEEL: Patented...

MULTI-STAGE FILTRATION: Delivers...

$14.25

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Bestseller No. 4

Aqueon QuietFlow LED PRO Aquarium Power Filter 75

Provides mechanical, chemical,...

Self-priming starts up automatically...

$47.99

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Last update on 2020-08-24 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Power filters vs Undergravel filters- which is the best? 

You’re probably still thinking: “which should I use between a power and an undergravel filter?”

While there’s no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to choosing between these two, your selection should be based on your budget tank design/size, and your goal. 

If you’re looking for quick water filtration for a large amount of water and not limited by budget, go for a power filter. But if you own a smaller tank with a subtle setup or you’re limited by budget, get an undergravel filter. 

However, in terms of filtration efficiency, power filters usually do a better 3 stage filtration job. Furthermore, here’s where a power filter does better than an undergravel filter:

Power filters can filter out impure water and make it into a quality of an undergravel filter, and most times, even better. 

They are usually hanged at either the side or at the back of the aquarium. Although the placement method is much like undergravel filters, the power filter still takes the win because an undergravel filter will still take up some space in the tank. Also, the power filter will never after your aquarium plant roots. 

Going further, anyone that prioritizes the aquarium’s aesthetics should go for an undergravel filter because, after all, you will barely see it. 

Also, if your tank is enclosed or features a good, it might be challenging to attach a power filter to the sides. In such a situation, an undergravel filter will be a preferred choice. 

Bottom line is, both filter types serve a different purpose and your choice should be based on what you intend to achieve with the filter. 

The post Undergravel filter vs Power filter- which is the best appeared first on Successful Aquarium.

[icipilou-blog]

How To Choose The Best Aquarium Filter For Your Fish

I typically hear individuals say "He made me mad!" or "I couldn't assist being livid!" or "It just takes place before I even understand it!" These declarations put the blame for ending up being upset on someone else, or circumstances. The bright side is that you can, if you want, reduce anger nearly right away. With a little effort and time you can overcome it and manage or convert the energy you might have wasted on anger, into something better. Studies have revealed that animals help emotional and mental health, but apparently they create a better sense of physical well being too. Did you understand that infants who are around animals from an early age grow up with fewer allergic reactions and a lower danger of asthma? Did you know that just checking out a go to this website can lower your high blood pressure? Did you understand that grownups and children respond much better to virtually all types of physical and behavioral therapy with pets present? How much maintenance you are able to perform for your fish tank will higher impact the type of aquarium filter that you purchase. You will require to decide for filters that need little maintenance if you are a busy individual with extremely little time on your hands. These include canister filters and diatom filters. But these filters will be more expensive. Keep in mind that you will have to carry out frequent upkeep if you are not ready to invest that much on your fish tank. For undergravel filters, this includes vacuuming the gravel. For sponge filters, you would have to wash the sponge and for corner filters, you would need to take out the filter media from package and clean it. If you do not do this, it will cause the filter to be obstructed and may even back the waste up into the aquarium water. Among the important devices for you to have in your aquarium is the filter. Filter is a device that removes pollutants from the water of your aquarium by method of fine physical challenge or by chemical procedure. It is suggested that you use an undergravel filter given that it's not costly and it keeps the particles completely out. But how you can choose the very best filter for your fish tank? Furthermore, getting the best filter can save you great deals of hours in upkeep. It features a best tank filter for turtles that is water resistant and peaceful and guidelines to set up and utilize the filter. Some are round, some are wine glass formed, some are square but others are nearly any shape you can envision. This is a big snail that brings to life live young. This works for the fish so that they can have a well-lit habitat. The majority of fish tanks are made out of glass and are, As a result, prone to breakage. Another advantage to the design of this filtration system is the positioning of the connectors. The output connectors are turned at a 45 degree angle which will make them much simpler to obtain into location. When it concerns positioning your filter other types can be a pain, however the Fluval FX5 will allow you to quickly get it in there and carry on with your day. This filtration system is a bit noisier than some others, however it isn't so loud that it need to be a significant bother to the majority of people. The most significant problem from users is that it has foam inside the canister which lowers the amount of media that it can hold. Aquarium filter mold does not straight damage fish, but can harm then indirectly. It robs the tank's water of oxygen if the mold is enabled to grow. Fish continuously gasping at the surface of the tank are residing in water with too little oxygen in it, according to "Freshwater Fish Tank Issue Solver" (TFH Publications; 2006.) Although some fish like bettas or plecostumus catfish are adjusted to gulp air, living in low-oxygen water can stress a fish, lowering its resistance to parasites or illness.

[hella-free-space]

How did you start your fish tank? I'd ;like to start one up myself but I have no idea where to start... Any tips or pointers?

Hello there anon! Thank you for the ask :DD

I’ve got tons of tips and pointers for ya :3 Below I’ll explain the basics of fishkeeping, the stuff that generally applies to all freshwater fish tanks like the basic supplies you’ll need to gather and explain the nitrogen cycle! (I’m not sure about saltwater stuff, though, as I haven’t gotten into that part of the hobby…yet ;p) The species you want to keep will dictate the specifics of your tank, beyond the basics, though, so keep that in mind going forward! :)

The Basic Supplies:- Tank- Filter- Heater/Chiller (if required)- Thermometer- Substrate (optional)- Décor/Hides- Water Test Kit

Tanks:Choose a tank that is sufficient in size for the species you plan on keeping! Long tanks are almost always better than tall tanks, as fish swim side-to-side and not up-and-down :) If this is your first ever fish tank, I’d start out with a fish tank no smaller than 5 or 10 gallons, if not larger! Larger volumes of water hold a stable cycle more easily! :)Filtration:There are three main types of filtration: mechanical/physical, biological, and chemical. Mechanical filtration is what filters out particles from the water, large or small. Biological filtration refers to the nitrifying bacteria that perform the nitrogen cycle! Chemical filtration is filtration that helps to take certain chemicals out of the water.Types of Filters:- Hang-On-Back (HOB) filters hang on the lip of the tank. They have a ‘media basket’ where the filter media goes (usually cartridges). If you buy a filter that requires filter cartridges, I recommend replacing those with a ceramic media, sponge media, or both since you’ll have to replace the cartridge eventually and that can disrupt your cycle. Fluval AquaClear filters are a great HOB filter for larger tanks, and come with sponge (physical, biological filtration), ceramic (biological filtration), and carbon media (chemical filtration)!- Sponge filters are great for fish and other aquatic animals that prefer (or require) low-flow! These filters are basically blocks of sponge hooked up to an air pump. The air pump forces air up through the sponge, creating a vacuum that sucks up particles (mechanical filtration) and water (biological filtration). The air is forced out the top of the sponge, creating bubbles that agitate the surface, aiding in gas exchange!-Canister filters are like HOB filters on steroids. Instead of a ‘media basket’ you get a literal ‘media bucket’ (biological, chemical, mechanical filtration). A canister filter (also called an external filter) is placed somewhere outside the tank, and doesn’t hang on the lip like a HOB does. Its great if you don’t want to see your filter or if you need a ton of filtration for a larger tank :p Mini canister filters also exist, if you’d like one for a smaller tank :)- Undergravel Filters are something I’ve heard pretty mixed reviews about, and I’ve never personally used one. They’re usually grated, plastic, thin hollow block filters that you put under the substrate of your aquarium (I believe gravel works best with these filters, as I assume using sand or another small-particle substrate would fall into the filter? someone please correct me if I’m wrong .-.). They may provide enough surface area for nitrifying bacteria (biological filtration) if you have a very small bioload, or if you could fill them with some type of media…these are probably the most painful to clean, though, since you’d have to take apart your entire tank…Heaters & Chillers:Your fish may require a heater or chiller! If they do, its for good reason. Fish are ectothermic (like reptiles), meaning that they rely on their environment to help them regulate body temperature. (Humans like you and me are endothermic, meaning that we can produce our own body heat/regulate our body’s temperature.)A fish that is too cold will become lethargic, stressed, and may refuse to eat. Temperature affects bodily processes as well, such as digestion, circulation, and metabolism regulation. Temperatures that are colder will slow down these bodily processes and warmer temperatures will usually do the opposite. Because improper temperature is stressful for any fish, they will experience a suppressed immune system as well, and will be more susceptible to illnesses as a result :/Some fish require heaters/higher temperatures to function properly (Bettas, tetras, other tropical fish). Some fish require no heater, or the addition of chiller, to function properly (goldfish, minnows, danios). As a general rule of thumb, heaters should be 5-10 watts per gallon. Adjustable heaters are always more reliable than non-adjustable heaters. Adjustable heaters also usually have thermostats, so they turn on and off automatically to ensure that the aquarium’s temperature stays constant(ish). Usually you don’t need a chiller unless you’re keeping a temperate- or cold-water species and where you live it doesn’t get below the high 70s all year.

Thermometer:Yes it’s necessary! You need to be able to monitor what temperature your tank is, whether you have a heater, chiller, or neither :) Even if you have an adjustable heater with a thermostat, it may not be accurate to +/-1 degree. Avoid those strip-sticker thermometers. They’re not very accurate :/ You can buy glass ones at Walmart for about 1.50$ though! :p

Substrate:There are lots of different substrates to choose from! Gravel, sand, plant substrate (like fluorite), or no substrate at all! Some substrates are ‘inert’ (don’t affect pH or other parameters) some substrates are ‘active’ (affect pH or other parameters). Some aquatic species have a very specific range of pH/KH/GH, like shrimp, and may require substrates that help you achieve that range of values. Some species require certain substrates for their health and safety, like corydoras, which require sand (or barebottom) as gravel and other rough substrates can cut up their tummies or injure their barbels. If the species you keep doesn’t require any special substrate, then choose whatever substrate you like best! It’s your tank! Have fun with it! :)

Décor:One of the funnest (idc if funnest isn’t a word *3*) part of setting up an aquarium is decorating it!! Some fish have delicate fins (like bettas) that require either live or silk (material, non-plastic) plants and décor devoid of sharp edges. Hides are also important. Providing adequate caves and cover for your fish to hide in/feel safe in/explore is the functional aspect of décor. Make sure you’re meeting your animal’s needs :) Other than making sure that your décor is safe and functional for the creatures you plan to keep, go full ham!! Crazy color gravel with wacky colors and glow in the dark caves or an aquascaped, planted tank with driftwood and rocks! :D

Water Test Kit:In order for you to maintain the health of your fish, you’ll need to know what your water parameters are :) You should at least test for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, and pH. You may need to test for other things like copper, KH, or GH depending on the species you’re keeping. A liquid test kit (like the API Freshwater Master Kit) is easy to read and very accurate :) (plus you get to use test tubes n stuff…like the lil fish scientist you are *3*)

The Nitrogen Cycle!*ALL* fish (yes that includes bettas…and all animals for that matter) produce waste. Because all aquatic animals produce waste, they require (biological) filtration of some sort to process that waste.Fish produce waste in the form of ammonia. Ammonia is toxic above 0ppm (parts per million). So you’ve got all this ammonia floating around in the water, right? and you’ve got water running through your filter…so these bacteria start growing all over your fish tank, wherever there’s water flow, but we want to concentrate on the bacteria that are growing in your filter media. This bacteria will be processing the waste that your fish or aquatic animal produces :)So your fish produced some waste, and it’s floating around in the water as ammonia. The first bacteria (#1) that grows will ‘eat’ the ammonia and then ‘poop’ out nitrites.Nitrites are also toxic to aquatic animals above 0ppm though :/ so then another bactiera (#2) grows and it ‘eats’ these nitrites that are floating around in the water and ‘poops’ out nitrates.Nitrates are safe for fish (up to 20ppm)! :D Since there’s no bacteria that’s going to grow to eat these nitrates that are in the water, we have to physically remove them by doing a water change. A helpful post about water changes, how they work, and why they’re important:https://hella-free-space.tumblr.com/post/160931725969/whats-the-rule-for-water-changes-like-ive-seenIf you have live plants, they will use some of the ammonia, nitrite, and/or nitrates in the water as nutrients :) Some plants will use more than others, as some plants are heavy root feeders, some are floaters, and some prefer to be somewhere in the water column. (note: live plants SHOULD NOT totally replace water changes! water changes are still necessary even for planted tanks :3)To recap:Fish waste (ammonia) -> bacteria #1 -> nitrite -> bacteria #2 -> nitrate -> water change

If you have any other questions, Anon, please send me a message or another ask!! :)If anyone would like to add onto this, or if corrections need to be made, please reblog/comment/let me know! :)

[lilkittay]

Male veiltail betta.

Approximate age: 1 yr

Known water conditions: Temp 80f, 0 ammonia/nitrite, less than 5ppm nitrate, 10 gallons, ph 8.2, hard water (exact hardness not known)

Filtration: combination air-driven undergravel filtration and aquaponics. Diet: high quality flake food. Lives alone.

[aquaresources]

How to Set up a Planted Tank

1. Aquarium Preparation And Position

A 20-gallon aquarium is an ideal and manageable choice for a beginner. First, clean the interior of your new aquarium with salt using a soft piece of cloth, then rinse it well with boiling water to get rid of the harmful organism and residue sediments, then wipe dry. This will ensure the elimination of any harmful bacteria or algae spores.

Choose a large enough location with level and well supported surface for your aquarium and stand. The total weight of an aquarium would be approximately 10 pounds per gallon of water, so a stand sufficient to hold the weight of the filled aquarium is a necessity. Make sure to leave enough space for electrical connections and other equipment as well as space around the aquarium for maintenance.

The aquarium should be located where light and temperature can be regulated and not influenced by sources such as windows or heating. Sunlight can be responsible for green algae in the tank. Ideally, you should select a location that will help in maintaining a constant temperature between 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Set Up The Substrate

After carefully cleaning your aquarium and placing it on a stand in a proper location, cover the bottom of your tank with a layer of substrate. If you want to grow stem plants in your planted tank, choose a soil substrate. If you want a low tech planted tank with moss, anubias, and epiphytic plants, use a gravel or sand substrate.

You will need 2 lbs of substrate per gallon of tank volume to fill a 2-inch bed. This rule of thumb is fairly useful for rectangle tanks. The exact number may vary according to your aquarium shape, it decreases in a tall tank and increase in a long one.

The base substrate will form the breeding ground for the beneficial bacteria that breaks down the organic waste substances. Once this is set up, it is difficult to clean the tank, and is impossible to clean the substrate frequently, so be sure your substrate is set properly before you proceed. The bacteria in the substrate and the roots of aquatic plants require a good supply of oxygen to grow. In order to meet this requirement, the substrate you select must remain loose and porous.

Eco-Complete Planted Black aquarium substrate is a ready-to-use substrate for growing aquarium stem plants. This substrate contains almost major and minor trace elements required to make your aquarium plants thrive and you don't need to supplement anything to it. Moreover, this substrate contains live microorganisms that are ready for establishing a good environment in your tank and nourishing your plants.

The Eco-Complete substrate is ready to use and doesn't need to be rinsed. However, if you use a fry substrate, ensure to rinse it well with clean water before adding to your tank.

3. Positioning Hardscape (Rock And Driftwood)

Stones and driftwood serves as the basic framework of your aquarium layout. The artistic composition of your planted tank is based almost entirely on the arrangement of stones and driftwood.

Most people feel that an object would look more attractive if it is positioned slightly off-center. This balance is called the golden ratio which is expressed by the ratio of 1:1.618 (approximate value is 2:3). Originally founded by an ancient Greek mathematician, the golden ratio is said to be the most harmonious proportion to the human eye and is used as the aspect ratio for postcards and various packages.

In an Iwagumi layout, the largest main stone which constitutes the main focal point of the layout should be placed in the position determined based on the golden ratio in order to achieve visual balance. The standard size of the largest main stone is about two-thirds of the tank height when it is placed on the substrate. The golden rule of Iwagumi is to arrange the stones in order of size from largest to smallest.

Besides stones, driftwood is a natural composition material essential for planted aquariums. It is vital to select driftwood appropriate to the tank size in order to produce a good driftwood layout. The shape of the driftwood is essential, but the most important factor is its size. Too large a piece of driftwood makes the viewers feel visual pressure from the layout, so it is advisable to combine a few pieces of driftwood.

4. Planting And Filling The Tank

After properly positioning the stones, gently pour dechlorinated water (tap water treated with a water conditioner) into the tank until the substrate is well soaked. The weight of water makes the substrate firm, thus preventing the plants from coming loose when planted with tweezers and make the planting procedure more simple.

Now, start preparing and planting your aquarium plants. Presenting depth and congruity in your aquascape is crucial. The size, growth rate and colors of the plants are all contributing factors to the layout and therefore, when planting, a certain basic order is necessary.

Foreground plants (undergrowth plants, carpet plants) form a carpet base for the aquascape,

Midground plants are used to fill in the middle space,

Taller background plants form a green backdrop for the layout.

Using tweezers helps you easily to plant some popular carpeting plants such as Glossostigma elatinoides and Eleochalis acicularis. Remember to water the plants and always keep them well moistened while you consider your design layout.

If you want to sow the substrate with aquarium plant seeds, do this after adding water to wet the substrate and wait until the seeds germinate. It may take you about 3 days for the seeds to germinate and 10 days for the new plants to develop their roots, which then will help the plants to stand against the water current from the filter. Carpeting a planted aquarium with this method takes more time than using mature plants but it is worth the waiting time.

You can tie your stones and driftwood with moss to make them look more naturally. You can also attach different types of moss to bonsai driftwood to make appealing moss trees. Cotton threads and super blue gel are very useful for moss attachment.

After planting all your plants, slowly and gently fill the tank to its capacity with warm water at 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit (25-27 oC). Remember to use dechlorinated water if you use a substrate with live helpful bacteria or want to add several fish right away after setup. Gently fill the tank to prevent the water pressure from destroying your work.

A final examination of the overall layout is required. By taking the time to make this meticulous check, you will strengthen your knowledge of and your relationship to every intricate detail of your layout aquarium. As one of the final touches, trim any plants that affect the overall appearance of the layout.

At this point, many small remnants of aquatic plants and other debris would be floating in the water. Replant anything that can still be used and then, with a fine mesh net, removes all the remaining debris. As another final touch, level the front part of the substrate again with a sand flattener.

Finally, the planting is over! All that remains now is the setup of aquarium equipment such as a filter, heater, lighting and CO2 supply system. Once that is done, you will have successfully completed the initial setup of your planted aquarium.

5. Set Up Equipment For The Planted Tank

Once the planting stage is over, it is time to start setting up various support equipment to keep the ecosystem in your tank alive and healthy. Filters play a crucial role in dissolving all unneeded organic substances and waste products of your aquarium. In other words, the filter is responsible for keeping the tank's water clean and clear.

There are many different kinds of aquarium filters you can use for a freshwater planted aquarium. When choosing, avoid selecting one that is too small for your aquarium, and not use an undergravel filter because it can drain away precious bacteria and nutrients from the substrate. I love to use an external power filter (Hang-On-Back) that is easy to use and very efficient in keeping your aquarium water clean for a long period.

You should choose a filter that is large enough to accommodate as many filter media as possible. The larger filter capacity offers to better filtration and longer maintenance. You should use all 3 types of filter media (biological, mechanical and biochemical) to completely purify your aquarium to not only make it clean and safe for fish but also clear for enjoyment.

Finally, install the filter and check if it works properly. Then, unplug it and set up your heater and other equipment.

As you know, colorful tropical fish are an essential part of a beautiful and lively planted aquarium, and these fish need a warm water at 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit (25-27 oC) to thrive. A good aquarium heater with thermometer helps to control and maintain the temperature at that point.

The thumb rule for choosing aquarium heaters is "4-5 watts per gallon" if you don't live in a region with extreme temperatures. The difference between your room temperature and the temperature you want to achieve, and the aquarium capacity are important factors for choosing the right heater. I have a complete guide for choosing the right aquarium heater by tank size here.

In a planted aquarium; CO2, lighting, and nutrients in the substrate are crucial factors for the plant growth. Aquatic plants could grow in an aquarium only if both light and CO2 were provided. Like plants in nature, plants in the aquarium also use light and CO2 in the morning for their photosynthesis and they need an alternate mode between day and night to thrive. Over lighting doesn't help to grow plants, vice versa it can cause stress and kills them.

A planted tank LED light, which provides white light at 6800-7000 K, is a great choice. The light you need depends on the plants you have in your tank. Consider all your plants and determine if they are low, medium or high light demanding. Then, choosing the right light rated for the tank size and the plant types.

Low light plants need approx 60 lumens per gallon (10-20 Lm/L).

Average or medium light plants need approx 110 lumens per gallon (20-40 Lm/L).

High light plants need over 150 lumens per gallon (> 40 Lm/L).

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 v2 LED light with controller is the best thing to buy for your planted tank, it features a 7000K/multi-color blend for the plant growth. Moreover, it has a 24/7 feature that allows for automatically repeating a preset lighting cycle without daily turning on/off the light by your hands.Read my guide for planted aquarium lighting: https://lovefishtank.com/planted-aquarium-led-light/.

If your have demanding plants that require much CO2 to flourish, you should consider a CO2 supply system. This type of system is fitted with a CO2 regulator for adjusting the CO2 injected into your aquarium. A good CO2 regulator will come with all compositions in the previous picture. (Read the full guide).

The CO2 concentration can be easy measured by using a cheap CO2 drop checker. The ideal CO2 level in a planted tank is 26-35 ppm, where the indicator solution of the drop checker changes to green color. You should ensure that the CO2 is provided at this range, which is best for the plants to thrive but still lie at the level the fish can live happily. This is very important, as the shortage of CO2 supply will result in the undergrowth and in many cases, the death of plants. On the other hand, the over CO2 supplied can harm your fish and shrimps.

If you are new to the CO2 system and your system doesn't include a CO2 bubble counter, you should install one. The CO2 bubble counter helps to quantify the amount of CO2 injected by counting how much bubbles per second. The amount of CO2 necessary differs according to the size and the growth stage of aquarium plants. It is recommended that you should supply approximately 1 bubble per second during the initial stage of your planted tank, then gradually increase the supply to 2-3 bubbles as the plants grow.

More details about CO2 supply system: https://lovefishtank.com/co2-regulator-supply-kit-planted-tank/

6. Test And Adjust The PH And Water Hardness

You should test and adjust the pH and water hardness before running the tank to make these parameters ideal for the healthy growth of your aquarium animals and plants. API test kits are the best ones to use. Remember to monitor the pH often when your planted aquarium has been set up.

The optimal pH range for each tank will depend on the types of plants and fish in that tank. The pH range from 6.5 to 7.5 meets the survival threshold of most freshwater plants and fish. Most aquarists maintain their planted aquariums at that range.

The true and scientific way to reliably change the pH of aquarium water is to change its buffer ability from supporting for neutral pH to acidic/alkaline pH. Seachem buffers are very efficient to do this work. Use 1/4 teaspoon (2g) of either of the buffers (depend on your purpose) for every 20 gallons of water daily until achieving your desired pH. For more details, read the guide for pH adjustment.

If your water is too soft or not well buffered, this is not good for aquarium creatures. Use both of the Seachem buffers together according to your target pH and the suggested ratio from Seachem to improve the hardness and buffer capacity of the water.

If you have the problem with hard water, the problem may come from your tap water, stones and/or other things you add into your tank. The fastest and cheapest way to solve the problem is to dissolve your water (aquarium water or tap water when changing) with RO/DI water. You can also use an aquarium softener to soften very hard water and make it ideal for your aquarium's inhabitants.

7. Cycle The New Setup Planted Aquarium

After installing all aquarium equipment, plug them in and start them up. Let the tank run for over 24 hours until you ensure everything are working properly, there is no water leakage, the filter works with no problem, etc. Now continue to the process.

Any new setup aquarium needs to be cycled before it can accommodate and keep fish healthy. The main purpose of this process it to accumulate helpful nitrifying bacteria, which process toxic ammonia and nitrites from fish and aquarium wastes, as much as possible to prepare for stocking live animals.

You have two options to cycle your aquarium, with fish or without fish. Read more about this procedure: https://lovefishtank.com/new-fish-tank-nitrogen-cycle/.

[aviculor]

rasec-wizzlbang reblogged your post and added:

could a low flow sponge filter work?

toadstule replied to your post“It’s too bad that filtration devices aren’t good for leeches and...”

Are they small enough to climb into an undergravel filter? I wanna get some but that's one of the things stopping me too

It’s been about 9 years since I kept aquaria so I’m not familiar with every technique or new advancement. Honestly, I’m rusty even when it comes to things I do have experience with and the filter I had was already a fucking dinosaur back then. I could barely sell the thing.

I’m under the impression that they’ll squeeze into any opening larger than a mesh screen, so I wouldn’t know what rigs would be secure and contained enough. I doubt it would need to be particularly efficient as long as it prevents the water from needing such frequent changes and as long as it doesn’t provide any space for the leeches to escape/get horribly mutilated.

[teruyalab]

Read more at teruyalab.com

Source: practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Meet Aaron Bowyer, a 6ft 6in tall reader with a beautiful reef tank that’s nearly as long as he is tall...

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: GEORGE FARMER

Aaron Bowyer is clearly a talented fishkeeper who thrives on a challenge. He started the hobby as an eight-year-old, encouraged by his mum who kept tropical fish. He kept bread and butter community fish, successfully bred many and by the time he was 14, he’d moved onto planted tanks and discus. He could grow plants, aquascape with natural flair and was breeding his discus at the age of 15. I know this because he showed me some very impressive photos taken with a 35mm film camera.

Soon he moved into marines at a time when undergravel filtration was the norm and SPS corals were virtually impossible to keep alive. With a natural gift for all things aquatic, Aaron took the logical step and after A-Levels studied for a BSc degree in Aquaculture and Fisheries Management at Sparsholt College.

After an admittedly unrewarding career managing a well-known arts and crafts outlet, he maintained his hobby and got chatting with the owner of the Reef Dreams shop in Winchester. It wasn’t long before Aaron was offered the job of full-time manager. No surprises that he made the move and hasn’t looked back since.

Being the manager of a reef retailer had its benefits. Aaron was offered his current six-foot tank and cabinet by the shop’s owner for the princely sum of £100 — if he could take it away himself. That was around 18 months ago and the result now is nothing short of stunning (scroll down to the bottom of the page for video).

The tank is turned over 90 times an hour!

I arrived at Aaron’s home in the evening to find him away, still at work in his shop. His girlfriend, Anneke, kindly let me in and the brightly lit tank instantly caught my eye with the familiar bluish ambient glow that’s associated with most reef aquaria. I think my jaw actually fell open involuntarily to allow my brain to compute the heady high-impact mix of bright colors and movement.

Daisy coral.

Relishing the challenge

With 90–95% of the corals being brightly-coloured SPS I knew I was witnessing something pretty special, even as someone who’s more akin to planted aquascapes. The colors were so vivid and bright that any non-fishkeeper could be left wondering if indeed the corals were real!

Aaron returned home soon after and we quickly entered into a dialogue about his hobbyist roots. When I asked, “why reef?” his answer was remarkably straightforward. “I need to challenge myself”, Aaron replied. To grow relatively demanding corals to such a high standard is indeed a challenge, and one that Aaron has clearly relished.

Skimmer, nitrite removers and other equipment is hidden away in the sump.

Consistency is key

He puts much of the success down to consistency in product usage using the balling method — the technique of dosing different solutions to give the corals the minerals they need. Aaron uses the Tropic Marin Pro-Reef range of salt and balling products. The three balling solutions are all dosed automatically using a GHL auto doser and Aaron goes through a total of 1100ml every day. He has calculated that this equates to a mighty total of 74Kg of balling salts every year! In theory this should mean that there’s around 74Kg of added mass to the corals, which is incredibly impressive and leaves me wondering how sustainable such heavy growth can be. Aaron tests the water regularly to ensure the parameters with a variety of high-end test kits to spot any trends in water chemistry fluctuations.

There’s almost 600W of high-output T5 lighting with reflectors, so Aaron runs a cooling fan constantly over the surface of the water. The PAR reaches around 400–600ųmol at the surface and 150ųmol at the substrate. No chiller is employed. Aaron plans on putting even more light over the tank in the form of an eight–T5 ATI unit. I asked if he had considered LEDs but he explained that to get a similar quantity of light would cost over £3,000, using several Radions or Hydra 52 units. Arguably the effect of T5 can be more impressive than LED with its consistency in light spread and lack of glitter lines. It’s largely down to personal taste and budget, as with all aspects of fishkeeping.

The Copperband butterflyfish is a firm favourite.

Feature fish

Aaron’s fish selection is equally impressive. I’m a fan of seeing more smaller fish versus fewer larger fish, as it gives an improved sense of scale; a principle that he agrees with too.

Male Pseudanthias squamipinnis.

Dominated by a wonderful collection of wrasses, blennies, damsels and anthias, the mix of color and movement in the tank, especially after feeding was a sight to behold.

A large Copperband butterfly and Purple tang stood out as feature fish, with the former being Aaron and Anneke’s favourite specimen.

I asked if he had encountered any major issues with his set-up over the 18 months it had been running and was pleased to hear of nothing, except a jumper that triggered the installation of the mesh cover.

Aaron’s tank is filled with colourful SPS corals, all glowing with health.

Better than the telly!

The tank sits pride of place in the couple’s living room and I can’t see them watching much TV when there’s such a spectacle as this to appreciate. But Aaron suffers a similar problem to many other experienced fishkeepers and aquascapers  — he’s never satisfied and is always looking at ways to improve his set-up.

He explained that one of the pink Bird’s nest corals in his system had lost its intensity and he was determined to rectify the problem. He told me that you can lose color in a coral in a matter of days, but it can take months to get it back again.

It’s this determination to reach the highest of standards that I believe has been the key to Aaron’s success, and I left his home feeling very inspired and motivated. Maybe it’s about time I set up a proper reef tank myself…

Meet the fishkeeper

Name: Aaron Bowyer. Age: 33. Time in hobby: 26 years. First fish kept: Platy. First fish bred: Platy. Favorite fish: Copperband butterfly. Fish he'd most like to keep: Achilles tang. Favorite coral: Any SPS. Top tip: Stick with a consistent approach.

Exquisite anthias swim between the corals.

Aaron’s fish list

Copperband butterfly, Chelmon rostratus Tile goby, Hoplolatilus purpureus Purple tang, Zebrasoma xanthurum Yellow wrasse, Halichoeres chrysus Yellow hogfish, Bodianus bimaculatus 2 x Yellow tail damsels, Chrysiptera parasema 2 x Orange spot gobies, Valenciennea puellaris Yellow tail wrasse, Anampses meleagrides 2 x Peacock wrasse, Macropharyngodon bipartitus Leopard wrasse, Macropharyngodon meleagris 6 x Lyretail anthias, Pseudanthias squamipinnis Green chromis, Chromis viridis Multicolor wrasse, Cirrhilabrus lubbocki Orchid dottyback, Pseudochromis fridmani 2 x Jewel algae blennies, Salarias fasciatus Red scribble blenny, Cirrhipectes stigmaticus Molly Miller blenny, Scartella cristata

Yellow hogfish, Bodianus bimaculatus.

Aquarium factfile

Tank and cabinet Custom 180 x 60 x 60cm/6 x 2 x 2ft with 120cm/4ft sump, total volume 1000 l/220 gal.

Lighting ATI luminaire 6 x 80W HO T5 lamps, 2 x 54W HO T5 lamps.

Photoperiod 8am to 11pm: 2 x 54W T5 White and Blue. 9am to 10.30pm: 2 x 80W T5 Blue and Aqua Blue. 11am to 10pm: 1 x 80W T5 Fiji Purple. 11am to 10pm: 3 x 80W T5 New Gen.

Circulation and flow 90 times per hour turnover; 2 x Jebao WP40, Jebao DC12000 in-line circulation pump, 2 x additional circulation pumps (15,000 and 20,000 lph), Eheim return pump.

Filtration

80Kg live rock (20Kg in sump).

C9 Bubble Magus protein skimmer

3 x Aqua Medic sulphur nitrate removers.

Rowaphos

Water management and additives

25 l/5.5 gal water change per week using RO water and Tropic Marin Pro-Reef salt.

Balling classic nutrient regime using Tropic Marin Balling ABC, total 1.1 litres per day.

A+, K+ elements daily, 15ml.

KZ Coral Boost, 5ml per day.

KZ Coral Vitaliser, 5 drops per day.

KZ Amino acids 2, drops per day.

KZ B Balance, 10ml per day.

KZ Coral Snow, as and when.

KZ Bio Mate, 2 drops per day.

GHL Auto Doser.

Water parameters

Calcium: 450 ppm.

Magnesium: 1600 ppm (deliberately high to combat Bryopsis algae, extra Mg added to auto top-up).

KH: 8°.

Nitrates: 1 to 3ppm.

Phosphates: 0.01 to 0.05ppm.

[donaldikeister-blog]

Choosing A Filter For Your Aquarium Setup

Every aquarium wishes a filter- it seems to be pretty common expertise. But beyond that, the confusion begins. One glance at the alternatives available at the neighborhood pet save or online store can leave the beginning aquarist misplaced in a sea of possibilities. And the manufacturers tend to no longer make it any easier. No remember what kind or length of filter they're promoting it's the proper one for you as a ways as they're concerned. This leaves it as much as you to choose the fine choice on your aquarium installation yourself. To do so, you're going to want a piece of expertise both of what it's miles an aquarium filter out does and how the different alternatives to be had accomplish this.

First, a piece on the three main styles of filtration and why every is important. Every clear out will fill at least this type of roles and some may additionally fill all 3.

Mechanical Filtration

Mechanical filtration is the only and easiest shape of filtration to understand. Mechanical filtration way passing the dirty water through a few sort of media to be able to physically trap any loose particulate it carries. In an ordinary aquarium, the putting thinks of filter pads or sponges. Mechanical filtration's process is to capture these relatively huge bits of waste as a way to without difficulty be eliminated from the system either by washing or converting the filter out media earlier than they have got a chance to interrupt down further.

Chemical Filtration

Not all the waste on your aquarium is in a solid shape which can without problems be extracted through mechanical filtration. The purpose of chemical filtration is to get rid of waste merchandise which have dissolved into the water by using soaking up them into some kind of media. In aquarium filtration, the most common technique is to use activated carbon. Activated carbon can lure many different common waste products related to aquariums. Various different chemical filtration media additionally exist, many of which target particular pollutants.

Biological Filtration

Biological filtration is varied further to chemical filtration however instead of the usage of a reactive media micro organism do all the work. Commonly called the nitrogen cycle, each aquarium, whether the proprietor knows it or no longer, depends on bacterial colonies to hold the water liveable for its occupants. These bacteria damage down the waste merchandise produced through fish and convert them into much less dangerous substances. And while those bacteria aren't specifically picky about where they live (they'll subsequently colonize extra or less each surface inside the tank) specialty filters and media have been created to offer them an excellent environment to thrive and do their work.

Meeting the biological filtration wishes of your aquarium setup is important for success. And even as the useful bacteria will develop in the course of your tank giving them a dedicated location to colonize with ideal situations will greatly improve their effectiveness. Mechanical filtration is additionally quite crucial if only to reduce the amount of upkeep your aquarium requires. Chemical filtration is the least critical. It can help polish the water till it's crystal clear or extend the time among water changes however it isn't essential. Still, having a filter in which chemical media can be utilized have to the need stand up is a pleasant choice to have.

So what are your options? Well, plentiful could be one way to position it. All varieties of techniques of filtration were devised through the years making it clean to discover a filter out that's just proper for any capability aquarium setup. Let's take a look.

Undergravel Filter (biological/mechanical)

This is a very old technique and no longer absolutely employed an awful lot anymore however a few human beings nonetheless swear via them. As the name shows the majority of this filter is positioned underneath the gravel in the aquarium. It includes a molded piece of plastic that when located beneath the substrate creates a thin empty chamber covering maximum of the bottom of the tank. The plastic is perforated with plenty of holes and so is basically like a mesh. It also has some large holes to connect riser tubes that stick up out of the substrate. A pump is hooked up to these tubes to pull water thru them which in flip pulls water down via the gravel. The concept is that the gravel can function as a medium for bacterial increase in addition to mechanical separation as waste is trapped inside it. Undergravel filters can be very effective but they require right protection to maintain. They can end up without problems clogged if not kept clean with common vacuuming. Fine substrates and/or fish that like to dig don't mix well with undergravel filters either.

Canister Filter (biological/mechanical/chemical)

Like with all the different filter out kinds the name canister filter out is pretty descriptive of what it's far- a sealed canister full of filter out media and connected to the tank thru a few tubing. bestcanister filters usually have a few kind of basket or tray gadget for organizing the filter out media and can be loaded with whatever you pick as you see fit. They're capable of holding a lot greater media than different filters and because the canister is sealed the water is forced to skip via it all rather than going round as it may in other designs. This makes them a amazing desire for larger systems. They're also a good desire if you would like to area the filter out either in the aquarium stand or in some different out of the manner region for the reason that tubing it connects to the tank with permits you a few freedom on this regard.

[dineshbdinesh]

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[aquarium-gallery]

Aquarium Gallery - Polyfilter is in the house!!!...

New Post has been published on https://localaquarium.store/blog/2019/08/06/aquarium-gallery-polyfilter-is-in-the-house/

Aquarium Gallery - Polyfilter is in the house!!!...

Aquarium Gallery

Polyfilter is in the house!!!

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Highly adsorbent chemical filter media pads quickly and efficiently remove impurities, medications, and phosphate from aquarium water. Use in conventional power filters, undergravel filters, thechemical filtration compartment of canister filters and wet/dry filters. Simply cut to any size or shape to custom fit any aquarium filter. Rapidly improves water clarity and actively removes harmful organic and various inorganic wastebuildup for several months. Changes color to indicate the pollutants being removed and when Poly-Filter (R)is exhausted. Will not leach pollutants upon saturation. Used by researchers, hospitals, etc. For use in freshwater or marine aquariums.

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$29 – 4"×8" $70 – 12"×12"