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curareblog · 4 years ago
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{Therapeutate // Le Fumoir, Chrys 14, Exotic Flower, Taosi // Evaluations Below}
The first review of a black-owned fragrance brand! So... how did they do?
Let me preface this by saying that many of these fragrances are heavy, dark, earthy scents. If you should know anything about me at this point, dear reader, it’s that this type of scent is not exactly in my wheelhouse. However, I’m always interested in giving something new a sniff in the hopes that my preferences be pleasantly surprised. Therefore, the ratings are based purely on my personal likelihood of enjoying and wearing the scent. This is no commentary on the talent, or lack thereof of any creator.
Enough about me! Time to peek behind the tapestry.
As an overall note, the four samples that I received (with the exception of Taosi) very much seemed like variations on a theme (click the link for some relevant “variations” for background listening). One (and by “one” I mean me) is reminded of the distinctive scent of those stores in the mall that sold incense, wall tapestries, and Grateful Dead merchandise. It’s a seminal experience when malls are the hottest thing going for miles around. Essential smelling, if you will, for a young person.
Before you turn your nose up, recall that Therapeutate makes their fragrances with natural ingredients. Only. Natural. Ingredients. One can not help but to imagine this takes a few cards out of the deck, so to speak.
Le Fumoir 6/10
Are you ready for another one of those hyper-specific cultural touchstones I sprinkle liberally into my narratives? 
Mint Chocolate Chip Astronaut Icecream.
The opening of this scent is at once a minty, powdery, musty chocolate blast. Never mind the fact that there is no mint or chocolate in this fragrance. I blame the marjoram and green pepper on convening to deceive me. Well played.
The rest of the fragrance (to my nose) falls into a melange of dark brown, patchouli/medicinal/spiced notes - Tiger Balm, anyone? I don’t smell many of the other floral notes listed besides the spiced flower of carnation.
Chrys 14 6/10
And there is the vase of dried roses my grandmother kept in the alcove next to the image of the Virgin Mary and her rosary. The light was never on in the alcove. Mary’s gaze dark and inscrutable.
Exotic Flower 6.5/10
Enter the burlesque performer’s boudoir. The flames of the gas lamps dance frantically in their sconces. It’s clear the windows have not been opened in weeks. She gives a desultory glance to the chocolates and roses on her desk, as untouched and unloved as she. Ennui has pervaded the mantle, a coating of dust on the clock. The compact is open, and the cheeks powdered for the guest that will never come.
Taosi 8.5/10
First thought - who the heck made a perfume based off of hotpot? I’m talking Sichuan spicy 麻辣 hotpot. You know the one. Well... whatever that opening accord was rapidly morphs into something else.
Second though - I know you.
Who did I know? Who was it that I hadn’t expected to meet?
Nard Himalaya. Anyone who has been to a Hindu temple knows this smell. I was absolutely shocked to find it in a fine fragrance, but I could not help but smile! The smell is like an instant teleportation device to wander through rooms with plaster statues of Hindu gods, stores whose shelves held statues of the same deities, or even markets selling Thums Up cola.
Here is the bottled feeling of night-blooming, summertime visits to an impressive edifice surrounded by lush natural beauty. 
The fragrance then deftly transitions into a perfectly legible and pleasant drydown that veers in the dry, spicy/sweet/woody masculine direction. Skillful execution of (to me) a novel idea.
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