#spring/summer collection 2017

[newestcool]

Celine s/s 2017 rtw ''Clasp Bag'' Creative Director Phoebe Philo Newest Cool

[sgiandubh]

What happened with Barbour ?

Dear Barbour Anon,

My favorite kind of Anon, even if I know the question has recently been asked again and not in this corner. Never mind, I think it's time to talk about it, too.

I bought my first Barbour (entry-level, so olive) Bedale wax jacket 25 years ago, from their (long gone, now) shop on Boulevard Raspail, in Paris. It was a mandatory clothing item to own if you wanted to properly mingle with the law school crowd (it still is) and it ended up being one of my most prized possessions, possibly a part of me. I still have it somewhere, back home. Two more followed, along with a fetishist array of shirts, scarves, beanies and even one of those sturdy crossbody bags you can fit half a house in. So you can imagine my absolute thrill when I found out, very very late, that S had had a rather substantial collaboration with them, from 2016 and until 2019.

I am very bad with timelines, as you probably know and possibly even cackle about, but still: S was appointed as the company's first ever Global Brand Ambassador on July 16, 2016. His mission statement was very precisely defined by the brand and for some reason we'll analyze a bit later, this is important:

(Source, heh: https://www.astonbourne.co.uk/is-barbour-a-luxury-brand-unraveling-the-mystique-of-classic-outerwear/).

A shirt and vest signature collection followed in 2017 and 2018, with the contract being renewed. Advertisement was absolutely gorgeous and designed to shape a very positive image, both for S and the brand. Last autumn's SS Gin promo retained some of that irresistible aesthetic DNA and I discussed it at length.

See for yourself, Anon. The fandom endlessly discussed the first long clip (with the chocolate labrador), but I have no idea if these two have been seen, let alone debated. If they did, let that be my nostalgic mistake.

Spring/Summer 2018:

Fall 2018:

And then disaster stroke, with S's trip to Ha-wa-wee 1.0, in the spring of 2019. A short reel, featuring a rather agglomerated boat trip, was posted on socials. Unfortunately for S, it also featured an allegedly horrifying scene involving the 'traditional' bludgeoning to death of a tuna fish. Emotions ensued and as it often happens here, they spun out of control. Many people, including some of the most vocal S haters, tagged Barbour in their diatribes, filled with environmentalist indignation. They suggested this guy (who did not participate to the savagery and I would be even unsure he realized what was going on) was, by no reasonable means, a proper 'embodiment of the brand's identity, values and aspirations' (remember that mission statement?).

Tone deaf as ever in the midst of a serious PR crisis, S put friendship above anything else, and publicly praised the boat's owner, calling him 'the heart and soul of the island', if I remember well. I still would like to think he has no idea what the hell exactly happened. And then, when somebody finally (August 2019) asked Barbour on Insta about their collaboration with S, they got this politely dry, but clear answer:

"We don't have any plans for a collaboration with SH in the near future" means, in my book and to my understanding, "we are never going to work with this guy again". Truly, some people in here who dare to give morality lessons to others, should be proud of themselves: they did it knowingly and in a very organized way, using multiple sock accounts, to give the impression of a collective retching reflex. To cut the story short, the dread of any ad campaign on this planet.

The effort was genuine. The result of that collaboration was very good. Take, for example, this somewhat heartbreaking customer review by an American guy who has no idea who SRH is and who bought one of those jackets from a Barbour factory warehouse, in 2021, with a hefty rebate (70% off). Clearly something Barbour wanted to get rid of at all costs - what a pity and really what a SHAME on all those hypocrites who will never admit to a public assassination by the book:

This time, I am absolutely not sorry for the length, Anon. This is something that still makes me boil. Unfairness and cheap nastiness simply disgust me.

(Thank you, sweetheart, for the screenshot, always. You know who you are 😘😘😘).

[booklovershallway]

Elegantly Black

Elie Saab haute-couture-autumn-winter-2023-24

Paolo Sebastian Once Upon a Dream 2018 Spring Summer Couture Collection

Paolo Sebastian The Nutcracker 2018-19 Autumn Winter Couture Collection

Ziad Nakad Fall Winter 2017 – 2018

[fashionsfromhistory]

Apropriyeyshin

Laduma Ngxokolo for Maxhosa AFRICA (South Africa)

Spring/Summer 2017

The Apropriyeyshin dress is part of the 2017 Spring/ Summer collection, and was one of the first dresses to be made by Ngxokolo. With this collection Ngxokolo wanted to address cultural appropriation, but from a positive angle, recognising the way fashion can be used to celebrate different cultures and material traditions. For the collection he combined his staple Xhosa inspired patterns with traditionally western silhouettes, in this instance a form-fitted knitted maxi dress. Ngxokolo recongises that in wearing his Xhosa inspired clothes there is appropriation of sorts, yet he insists that there is a “way the people of that culture feel empowered by this form of expression”, by ensuring the recognition of Xhosa heritage within the collection.

Victoria & Albert (Accession number: T.2431-2021)

[brian-in-finance]

Twitter

Everything You Need To Know About Standing Ground, the British Brand Making Time-Traveling Garments

Ahead of his London Fashion Week show, the designer offered a look inside his sculptural fashion label, built on Irish mysticism, fantasy classics, and an intuitive approach to craft

Ireland’s standing stones, or dolmens, are the oldest remaining neolithic monuments in the country. For Michael Stewart, the designer behind London-based label Standing Ground, they are portals through time: stoic witnesses to the eons. He recalls taking frequent trips to visit them as a child, enchanted by the centuries-old mysticism buried deep within. “Ireland is a superstitious country, which is a good thing, because the dolmens have been preserved and protected over time,” he muses. “They’re feared in a way, so people don’t dare touch them.”

It’s no secret that Stewart’s spiritual connection to these megalithic tombs informs his brand’s name and modus operandi. Speaking from his new studio at the Sarabande Foundation in East London, he explains that the dolmens possess a transcendent quality, which he projects onto his own statuesque garments: deceptively simple creations that borrow from the futurism of sci-fi and fantasy classics such as Lord of the Rings to imagine evening wear, custom garments, and body ornaments that feel rooted in neither past, present, nor future.

After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2017, Stewart established Standing Ground in 2022, before attracting the attention of Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East incubator program, and making his London Fashion Week debut as part of the Spring/Summer 2023 shows.

Remaining loyal to his source material of neolithic artifacts and figures—images of a dolmen and a Saint Brigid’s cross adorn his spare studio walls—he doesn’t have a mood board or sketches, and freely admits to having done no new research since his master’s degree. Instead, Stewart takes an intuitive, and manual, approach to draping, sculpting, and craft, developing his own lines and patterns by hand to produce alien silhouettes that flow from and protect the body like topographic armor.

Stewart is currently working on his third collection for Spring/Summer 2024, which expands on the dialogue between distant pasts and otherworldly futures. “It’s different to what I would’ve presented last February, which was very beautiful, but not as menacing,” he confesses. “I wanted to take some time to figure out what I was doing, and not pigeonhole myself.”

This collection dials back the clock to pre-human times, focusing on primordial, skeletal, and fossilized forms to create uncanny garments that explore the relationship between objects and their surrounding environment. Imagining a world where ancient objects grow and shapeshift across each collection, the designs suggest a speculative place where humankind and nature are mirrors for each other—or, as Stewart puts it: “seeing the body as a landscape and the landscape as a body.”

Makeup by Machiko Yano / Hair by Moe Mukai / Casting by AAMØ Casting / Model is Nyaueth Riam / Fashion Assistance by Florence Thompson / Makeup Assistance by Krishna Branch-Mackowiak

Cultured

Brian’s Note: Cultured magazine’s story was published last year on 15 September. It mentions “Stewart is currently working on his third collection for Spring/Summer 2024.” Some of the dresses included in that collection are the dress Caitríona wore to the IFTAs and the ones below.

Instagram

Remember… Ireland’s standing stones, or dolmens, are the oldest remaining neolithic monuments in the country. ☘️

[leopauldelr]

The beginner's guide to the Pretty Series

With the recent announcement of the new Pretty Series installment titled Himitsu no AiPri, it's about time the Pretty Series returned after over a year since the Waccha PriMagi! series finale. In celebration of the newest installment, let's take a quick history lesson about the Pretty series.

The Pretty Rhythm Saga (2010-2014) - The Pretty Series saga began on July 15, 2010 with the arcade game titled Pretty Rhythm Mini Skirt. Made by Takara Tomy and developer SynSophia, this arcade game pits players in the role of Prism Stars, performing Prism Jumps, and collecting Prism Stones.

While the one that started it all made a slow start, the folks from Takara Tomy wanted to do more with the Pretty Rhythm saga, and with that, a TV anime titled Pretty Rhythm Aurora Dream was made. Aired in TV Tokyo on April 9, 2011, for 51 episodes, this anime is the fruit of Japan-Korea collaboration thanks to Japan's Tatsunoko Production and South Korea's Dong Woo Animation. The TV anime is all about Aira, Rizumu, and Mion in their quest to take on the prestigious Prism Queen Cup.

As Aira Harune's journey to become Prism Queen is completed, Mia Ageha takes the baton as the star of the next Pretty Rhythm story; Dear My Future. Aired in TV Tokyo on April 7, 2012, for 51 episodes, Dear My Future centers on the rivalry between Prizmmy☆ and the K-Pop group PURETTY. Believe it or not, there are real-life versions of the groups as seen in the anime. There's even a live-action segment featuring Prizmmy☆ as well.

As Mia Ageha's road to Grateful Symphonia is well and truly over, Naru Ayase steps to the spotlight in the third and final chapter of the Pretty Rhythm saga, titled Rainbow Live. Aired in TV Tokyo on April 6, 2013, it features an original storyline unlike the previous two. It's about Naru, An, and Ito, who are working together at the Prism Stone Shop while trying to take good care of a mysterious girl named Rinne.

Although the Pretty Rhythm saga ended, the story continues with the KING OF PRISM spinoff films featuring male characters from the Pretty Rhythm saga. They even got a 2019 anime show as well showcasing the rise of the boys who would be Septentrion.

The PriPara saga (2014-2018, 2021~) After the end of the Pretty Rhythm saga,  the folks of Takara Tomy prepped up what it seems to be the second generation of the Pretty series. It's called PriPara and it aired on TV Tokyo in the Summer of 2014 and lasted for three seasons, four if you count Idol Time PriPara of course. This anime series centers on the life and times of Laala Manaka, a little girl who wants to be the best PriPara idol. Together with Mirei Minami and Sophy Hojo, they became SoLaMi Smile and they fought their way against the best idol teams of PriPara, especially Dressing Pafe consisting of Dorothy, Reona, and Sion, Tricolore, and Gaarmageddon, among many others. PriPara is a huge win for the people behind it and such success prompted the show to spawn four movies and outrageous merchandising rights.

In the spring of 2017, the next chapter of PriPara begins with three new main characters penning the final pages of this saga. Titled Idol Time PriPara, it's all about Yui Yumekawa, whose fateful encounter with Laala Manaka changed everything following an accident. With Nino Nijiiro and Michiru Kouda joining alongside, the MY☆DREAM trio made the best closure to this saga.

Although the PriPara TV series is finished, the story continues with Idol Land PriPara. First announced in December 2020, it was originally slated to be released in the spring of 2021 until it became subject to long gestation and delayed launch dates. It was released on August 17, 2023. It is the second official PriPara app game after the defunct PriPuz puzzle app game. This app game also features an original anime series set moments after the events of Idol Time PriPara. It introduces new characters such as Amari Katasumi, Mario, and Pololo, among others.

The Kiratto PriChan years (2018-2021) - Aired in TV Tokyo since April 2018 for three seasons, Kiratto PriChan is set in a world where fame comes from social media just like in the real world. It's about a group of girls who called themselves the Miracle☆Kiratts who are striving to become the best PriChan idols above the rest. For three seasons, we watched Miracle Kiratts taking on big challenges such as heated competition with rival teams such as Meltic StAr and Ring Marry, the jewel idol competition, saving the world, the road to the Queens Grand Prix, and saving the world...again, while they do what they do best; showcasing the world that they're the best PriChan sensations ever known.

PriMagi (2021-2022) - Waccha PriMagi! is the fourth installment of the Pretty Series that revolves around the lives of Primagistas striving to become the best of the best. The show is about Matsuri Hibino, a middle-schooler who dreams of being the best just like her idol, the legendary Jennifer Sumire Sol.

AiPri - After over a year of void, the Pretty Series has returned with the newest installment coming to TV Tokyo this April 2024. Titled Himitsu no AiPri, the new series stars Minori Fujidera as Himari Aozora and Sae Hiratsuka as Mitsuki Hoshikawa. For the first time in Pretty Series, the animation sequences were provided by OLM, the studio behind the Pokemon and Yo-Kai Watch anime series, while South Korea's Dongwoo A&E returned to cooperate for it.

Welcome back, Pretty Series! The world can't wait for the franchise's comeback show this April.

[saccharine-dreamer]

Thom Browne 2017 Spring/Summer Collection

[rjzimmerman]

Excerpt from this story from Smithsonian Magazine:

On a sweltering summer day in Madison, Wisconsin, Jade Kochanski wades through a prairie bursting with wildflowers. Insect net in hand, she carefully scans the colorful blossoms. She’s on a mission to capture and identify the bumblebees that live there. If she’s lucky, she’ll discover a rare find—an endangered rusty patched bumblebee, named for the red-brown smudge that workers and males of the species sport on their backs.

Kochanski, a PhD student in integrative biology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, meticulously measures the bumblebees she captures and snips off a tiny piece of leg, a common, non-lethal way to obtain genetic material from these creatures. Each sample she collects from rusty patched bumblebees is destined for a lab in Utah to help researchers uncover the genetic secrets critical to the bee’s survival. DNA analysis will help scientists estimate the number of colonies, identify patterns of inbreeding within those colonies, and understand overall genetic diversity and health of the rusty patched bumblebee populations.

Once common across the eastern United States and Canada, rusty patched bumblebee (Bombus affinis) populations have plummeted by nearly 90 percent over two decades due to habitat loss, pesticide use, pathogens and climate change, according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Now, they are found in only a fraction of their former range, with scattered populations in the Upper Midwest and Northeast United States. In 2017, the rusty patch became the first bumblebee to be listed as endangered in the United States.

In response to listing, Kochanski joined a network of scientists who began collecting tissue samples from rusty patched bumblebees across its range. The initiative started in 2020 when Tamara Smith, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s lead biologist for the rusty patched bumblebee, organized a meeting with bumblebee researchers in Minnesota. Their goal: to identify conservation tools that could help save the species. “Genetics was the No. 1 question that came out of that [meeting],” says Smith. “We needed to get a handle on what was going on with this species if we wanted to move forward with some of the other tools that would help with conservation.”

Their research was published this past spring in the Journal of Insect Science and provides the first range-wide genetic study on the species. The findings offer key insights that can aid conservation of the species, but also raise questions and concerns about the ability of the species to recover. “Genetically, they’re not doing as well as we had hoped,” says Smith.

The study revealed a surprisingly low number of rusty patched bumblebee colonies, even in places where the bee seems prevalent. “We’ve seen the Upper Midwest as the stronghold of the species,” says John Mola, an ecologist at Colorado State University and lead study author, “but what we’ve seen from the genetic data is that even within these strongholds for the species, they are still far fewer colonies than we might have expected.”

Since only queens produce offspring, bumblebee populations are measured by colonies, not individuals. Each spring, queen bumblebees emerge from hibernation to create nests where they produce non-reproductive female workers that forage, nurse larvae and defend the nest. Later in the summer, queens switch to producing reproductive individuals, including males and new queens, which will form their own colonies the following year. Each colony can contain over 100 individuals. Thus, even if several worker bees are seen in an area, they could all come from just one or two large colonies.

According to the study, having few colonies poses significant risks, including making them vulnerable to local extinction from unpredictable events like fires on the prairies where they live. In light of the study, land managers will need to be more strategic with using prescribed burns for managing prairies within the bee’s range. To assist these efforts, as part of her dissertation, Kochanski is developing burn recommendations that balance the need for prairie maintenance with protecting bumblebees.

[stcpidcupid]

⸻   STUPID CUPID  :  BRAND AMBASSADORS  ❞ 

active since 2017, yet the members were never announced being the faces of fashion brands until 2022, shocking fans who have been waiting for this kind of news for years!

under the cut, you'll find which fashion brands finally managed to grab STUPID CUPID members!

♡⃗ CHESKA !

the CHANEL family expands as they welcome STUPID CUPID's CHESKA! the leader of the girl group joined LEE SUNG KYUNG, GONG YOO, KIM GO EUN and PARK SEO JOON as korean ambassador of the french luxury fashion house! CHESKA made her CHANEL campaign debut in august 2022 and has been one of the company's faces for a year already!

♡⃗ AIMEE !

in may 2022, AIMEE was chosen as the newest brand ambassador for the luxury fashion house GUCCI. since then, she has represented the brand at various events in seoul and even caught attention at the incheon international airport, slipping into a stunning outfit from GUCCI’s SPRING 2023 collection! this announcement never surprised the fans, as they expected that someone like AIMEE would fit as the face of GUCCI the most.

♡⃗ TOMIE !

following the announcement of PARADOX INVASION's MIKEY becoming PRADA's new ambassador, it didn't take long before the company managed to snatch the older KANG sibling as well. although with her striking looks and undeniable charisma, it’s no surprise that she has become the new ambassador for the luxurious fashion house. TOMIE became the face of PRADA in november 2022 and continues to do so despite haters spamming the comments of the brand's official instagram account.

♡⃗ JEANNE !

STUPID CUPID continues to rule the world as HERMÈS taps one of its members, JEANNE, to represent the french luxury brand. according to the announcement, JEANNE has been announced as the new face of the fashion house this year in february, right after the group's anniversary comeback! this loveable rapper starred in the recent IMMERSED IN SILK / EMBRACED BY NEUTRALS collections, wearing the new HERMÈS scarf collection and showing off her beauty!

♡⃗ VIVA !

the announcement of VIVA becoming VALENTINO's new ambassador came to light on instagram by the creative director PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI, which was later reposted by the fashion house itself. the photo released by the brand showed VIVA adorned in their most stylish clothes, which were announced for the brand's SPRING/SUMMER 2023 collection. creative director of VALENTINO says VIVA has been chosen as their new ambassador for "embodying the light-heartedness of youth, unique sense of style, passion for her craft and creativity", which couldn't be more right about the maknae of STUPID CUPID!

[onlyswan]

onlyswan year-end survey as i have begun building plans for our journey in 2024 👩‍💻

what is your favorite/s from the drabbles i’ve put out this year (second in which collection)? themes, lines, paragraphs, or scenes that stood out to you? and if it is not too much to ask- who is your favorite character, oc or jungkook?

which year/s would you like to see more of from 2017 to 2023? and which season (spring/summer/autumn/winter)? (yes this is very important) (like very) (no one: ..... me: *writes a metaphor to reveal the season* *clutches chest in distress* oc… must wear… season-appropriate outfit…theyneedtoknow)

[roseserpentpress]

Fourth and last (maybe... Side-eyeing u Icha Icha Strap from one of the Naruto games) installment of the Icha Icha Kakashi x Iruka series I've been doing: Icha Icha Tactics. The loose theme this time is paperwork and transformations. Because tactics involves both of those, sure. I spent a good while with this one figuring out which fics I wanted to put into it and of course once printing it out I immediately wanted to rearrange and insert different fics again... there are simply too many well written and satisfying shorter kakairu fics out there, I have to say, that they all cannot fit within four reasonably sized books, what an absolutely horrifying prospect to have.

All in all, it's very pleasing to have the entire collection all together, which I originally started this spring, and I have learned a lot in the time that has passed since Icha Icha Paradise, which is the second(ish) book that I have bound. To my mild horror, the collection has also become a comfort object for it's stories (ah, escapism my old friend) and somewhat prized possessions of mine, which although it is pleasing to know I am enjoying the fruit of my labour, it is most definitely not the degree of emotional connection to these particular books, out of all the books I've bound, that I had expected when I originally started binding this series. I have, as a result, re-read through the books multiple times now since I have bound each of them. Ah well, I digress.

A master post of the Icha Icha series can be found here.

And here are the fics within Icha Icha Tactics:

Dog Days (4k, T)

Written for Kakairufest 2017 Summer Round, Classics Prompt 11: A character undergoes a troubling physical transformation.

Stranger than fiction (5k, T)

Summary: Prompt: Classics 13 - Don Quijote

"You think people are not going to notice Kakashi ignoring his duties and hitting on anything with a pulse that stands still long enough?"

Secretary (10k, T)

In the aftermath of a war, Kakashi falls in love over politics and paperwork.

It shouldn't be this romantic.

How to file form 39-B (10.5k, E)

The first time Iruka met Hatake Kakashi, he was still on some pretty good painkillers.

A General State of Affairs (10.5k, E)

Determined not to fail his latest mission, Iruka sets out to deliver a vital scroll to General Hatake Kakashi of the Third Division.

Finding Halves (18k, T)

Hatake Kakashi’s entire life was the furthest thing away from normality, he should have expected the same with his soulmark. It appeared during the third year of his tenure when he was thirty-six, a good twenty years later than the population’s average, the mark inconspicuous at the inside of his upper left arm. Kakashi paused mid-shave, fingers still zapping with electricity, he stared at his own reflection in the mirror for a long, long time.

Worst Day Ever (22k, M)

Iruka just wants to be left alone at the hot springs to deal with Valentine's Day - the worst day of the year for him. Why can't Kakashi leave him alone? Must he bait Iruka--today, of all days? And... why is he trying so hard to get Iruka into the private spring with him...?

Strays (32k, M)

Iruka finds an injured dog.

[newestcool]

Maison Margiela s/s 2017 rtw ''Replica Collection’’ Newest Cool

[disarmluna]

From Maison Margiela Insta

A pale grey thistle-washed boiled cashmere cardigan brushed to achieve a swan’s-down texture worn in a déshabillé gesture and draped over a corset made from an eighteenth century antique brocade fabric rewoven in jacquard silver threads and an ‘exfoliage’ skirt hand-wired in a ‘filigrading’ of silver metal formations of lace, flowers, leaves and sprigs interlinked with silver chain and floral motifs cut from mirror fragments, and bedecked with crystal pendants, pearls and clasped jewellery.   Created for Kim Kardashian by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, the haute couture silhouette was inspired by the symbiotic love affair between Elizabeth Taylor and her jewellery. Forged in the memory of gem-encrusted parures, guilloche-graved surfaces, cannetille and claw-set stones, brilliant-cuts and baguettes, and ornamented clasps and silver clips, it is imbued with the seductive spirit of the haute joaillerie of Place Vendôme in the golden age of haute couture. The look further reflects on the notion of ‘unconscious glamour’ (origin: Artisanal Collection Spring-Summer 2017), the evocation of iconography that resonates as glamorous in our collective awareness.   A new technique, ‘filigrading’ – a portmanteau of filigree and ‘retrograding’ – evolves, through hand-wired metalwork, the practice of ‘retrograding’ which denotes a dégradé of thread-work, appliqué or encrustation. Over a thousand hours in the making, the hand-embroidered form was crafted to refract the light in the manner of jewellery. The haute couture skirt advances the cutting technique of ‘exfoliage’ through which the top layer of a garment such as a dress is seductively déshabillé-draped over the front of a skirt, essentially exfoliating one garment to create a type of foliage within another.

[dat-angel]

Anne Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

[conformi]

Sabato De Sarno, Gucci, Women’s Spring Summer 2024 collection VS Ruben Östlund, The Square, 2017

[fashionlouist]

Louis was spotted wearing a Palace Skateboards x Adidas T-Shirt in White from their Spring/Summer 2017 Collection ahead of tonight’s show.

📸: sk_aube02