#so much seraphim sepia and agrax earthshade
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Atomic Dustbowl Pilgrims.
Sculpted by Knucklebones Miniatures.
Painted by me.
For use in Inquisitor, Necromunda, Stargrave, Dark Heresy, etc.
Many questions surround the ghostly warriors that stand vigil over the nuclear dunes.
How do they survive the radiation? Who is the Off Worlder leading them? Are they allies of the Red Sorcerer? Why are they gathering in numbers never seen before?
Most folk simply turn away and lock their doors. What they dont know can't hurt them, right?
#miniature painting#3d printing#knucklebone miniatures#beul gunners#beul with spear#beul with sword#beet the ash waste nomad#chaos sorcerer#chaos#warhammer#necromunda#inquisitor#inq28#warhammer 40k#warhammer 40000#so much seraphim sepia and agrax earthshade#even a bit of my hoarded Devlan Mud wash#now thats the good stuff#mordheim#blanchitsu#grim dark#gritty fantasy#dark fantasy#now thats my jam holmes
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Alex Paints Things Ch 3. Pt 1: Whip ‘em in to Shape
Staring at something doesn’t make it get any better. It doesn’t get any work done. So why did I spend the last few weeks staring at this thing I had painted? I kept saying to myself “Yea I know what to do that will make this thing really pop” and then I do frig all about it. So here it is at the moment.
I messed around a bit with some new shades I picked up. Some really simple things to go over here; Just about all the leather is catachan fleshtone. It didn’t come up much but I did try to dry-brush up some of the stitching with white, not sure that came up so well in photos. The blade is a lot more leadbelcher. retributor armor on the plate trim, whip ends, waist pieces and the boot emblems. Boots are my usual jam of neutral gray and black. This also made it on the end of the whips.. The red is simply crimson red from Arteza. The hair is more or less the same mix as the boots just with more black and some white dry-brushed in.
The skin was a bit more fun. The base is made up of bugman’s glow. Layered over that is flayed one flesh. This was all shaded with reikland fleshshade.
The skulls, tooth necklace and the horns on the helmet started with a base of rakarth flesh and then topped with ushabti bone. The skulls and teeth were shaded with agrax earthshade while the horns were hit up with seraphim sepia.
To finish up, I did a lot of what I’ve kept with before. Nuln oil on most the metal and agrax earthshade on the leather and boots.
It pains me a bit because I know those whips can be made to look a lot better but I had to go over them many times after failed attempts to highlight them. There’s like 6 layers of base on those babies. There is something I’m missing here but I don’t know what yet. Suggestions are appreciated.
ETA on next post? lmao who knows
#hobby#hobby painting#painting#art#creative#warhammer#age of sigmar#citadel paints#games workshop#mini#mini painting#miniature#miniature painting#apt
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Here’s another WiP process thing! Featuring the poor Imperial Fist sucker I showed earlier. XD
So! Prime black, then base with Mechanicus Standard Grey.
Heavy drybrush of Dawnstone.
Wash all over with Agrax Earthshade. If you’ve got a two-piece base like this that you aren’t wanting to glue together, don’t let the wash dry with the base put together! The wash will pool between the pieces and dry very sticky, and it can be annoying to get the pieces apart again afterwards.
Once the wash is fully dry, drybrush lightly with Administratum Grey.
Final light drybrush on corners and raised areas of Pallid Wych Flesh.
And that’s pretty much it! For this one though, once I glued the Imperial Fist on, I also did some light drybrushing of Baneblade Brown on both the Fist and the base, to make them look dusty and tie them together a bit more.
You can also use washes other than or as well as Agrax Earthshade! Seraphim Sepia’s another good one to use for a more yellowish tone, while Reikland Fleshshade will give a more reddish colour. You can also use green washes like Athonian Camoshade to add a hint of moss/algae in areas.
I hope this helps - let me know what you think! And if you like my stuff, please consider donating to my Ko-Fi! :D
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This is pretty much what I spent my whole weekend on so far, aside from drinking with my housemates Saturday evening and going to the bookstore with them today. I started with black armour, did a recess shade of very thinned down rinox hide and edge highlights of dark reaper, thunderhawk blue, and then tiny corner highlights of fenrisian grey. Then the skulls and parchment were based coated with zandri dust, shaded in seraphim sepia and agrax earthshade respectively and layered with ushabti bone. The skull helmet already got a final highlight of palid witch flesh that the second skull still needs to help define it from the parchment, and then those two colours are basically done!
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ninthemage replied to your post: @thegentlemansguide yikes! I’ve been pretty...
I’ve been looking for ways to paint Native American and Arabic/Indian tones to expand my roster and there’s shockingly little outside of others asking the same question. Tabletop nerds have this massive blindspot when it comes to representing people of colour. Nothing makes me cringe more when I’m teaching as customer to paint, and when I ask them what skin they wanna paint their space mans I get a “Errrr normal skin mate”.
Oh god that’s the worst. “Normal,” jesus, ugh.
General guideline: For browns/red-brown skin tones, wash with Reikland Fleshshade. For golden/pale olive skin tones, wash with Seraphim Sepia. For dark olive skin tones, wash with Agrax Earthshade. You can fudge this, obviously, or switch it up to get some variation- say you painted a squad of Tallarn to be vaguely ‘Arabic’ looking but varied the washes and highlighting to represent some diversity within the general ethnic group.
For Native American, you’ve got some range obviously so mix with darker and lighter skin tones until you get the effect you want but I’ve had decent results getting the sort of standard/assumed red-brown of great plains peoples by mixing a good strong rust orange/red brown (GW’s Skrag Brown works well for this) with my darkest tan flesh triad paint, “Tanned Shadow” in about a 2:3 ratio. Gives it a much stronger ruddy undertone while still resembling an actual human skin color. Wash with Reikland Fleshshade.
Inuit, native Siberians, and more northern Native Americans like Tlingit I recommend using Golden Skin as the base, washing with Seraphim Sepia, and highlighting with Golden Highlight. You can even use Golden Highlight as the base if you want them more pale- this also works well for pale east Asian folks as you can imagine.
There’s a good bit of range across the Arabic-speaking world and India too of course but here are two colors that should read appropriately at a glance- you can add more or less shading/highlighting for some range.
Arabic (also what I use for Mediterranean): Tanned Highlight base, wash with Agrax Earthshade for a darker ‘under color,’ highlight raised areas with Tanned Highlight again
Northern Indian: Golden Shadow + Tanned Flesh or Tanned Highlight in a 1:1 ratio as the base color, wash with Agrax Earthshade, highlight usually with Tanned Highlight.
Southern Indian: Golden Shadow + Dark Highlight in a 1:1 ratio (can mix it up by swapping Tannned Shadow for Dark Highlight for a medium between this and the above) for the base, wash with Agrax Earthshade, highlight with your non-golden skin tone.
Anyhow I hope this helps anyone looking to paint their minis in a wider range of skin tones!
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