#screw mount antenna

[rfantenna]

[rfantennaindia]

A GSM screw mount antenna is an antenna designed for use with GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) devices. GSM is a standard for mobile communication that is widely used for cellular networks around the world.

The screw mount antenna is designed to be easily mounted on a device or a surface using screws. This type of antenna typically has a threaded base that allows it to be securely attached to the device or a suitable mounting point. The screw mount design ensures a stable and reliable connection between the antenna and the device.

[richerlandtv]

So last year when the 15th Doctor's Sonic Screwdriver was revealed...

A lot of people were going on about how it doesn't look enough like a screwdriver. It made me think "well, what does a Sonic Screwdriver look like?" And the more I thought about it, the more I thought, ultimately, you can get away with a lot with the Sonic Screwdriver so long as it's at least cylindrical.

So I opened up Maya and made a bunch of pieces and swapped them in and out until...

I had designed my own Sonic Scriver. Quite proud of it, too!

But to fabricate it, all I could really do was 3D print it, and while it's lovely for a hunk of plastic it just doesn't do anything.

So I asked a wizard.

Custom Sonics are absolutely amazing at making Sonic Screwdrivers. I sent them 3D turnarounds, photographs, and design documents and good (time) lord did they knock it out of the park.

Look at this!

It's absolutely beautiful!

Machined in real metal, with brass accents and durable resin grips, and fitted with lights and sound. Its weighty but light, feeling good in the hand.

I feel like it certainly measures up to other Sonic Screwdrivers!

I am so happy and so proud to have this in my collection.

If you want your own Sonic Screwdriver, definitely consider Custom Sonics for replicas, original designs, or to get a quote on your own custom design! (I'm not being paid to advertise, I promise lmao)

About the design:

I wanted this to look like the original Sonic Screwdriver had been built upon over the years, rather than simply being replaced. So there are elements of the Sonic Screwdriver seen in the Classic series acting as a base for the design, with everything else added on over the top.

Thinking of how the Doctor might improve on that original design in-universe, I thought about its weaknesses as an item. The Doctor could easily drop it and it might roll away, so I added a flat-edged grip. It also gets used a lot, so I thought it should have a ventilation system to prevent overheating. There are two sets of vents: the round ones near the top, and more subtle square ones near the grip.

The War Doctor uses the original Sonic Screwdriver but with the emitter head removed. We're never told why, but I like to think this, along with the additional piece added to the base, was done to give it more power. With that in mind, I thought perhaps an even more powerful Sonic Screwdriver - without an emitter ring - would need something to focus and stabilize the sonic waves. The Eleventh Doctor's and Fourteenth Doctor's Sonic Screwdrivers have "petals" which may or may not serve that function. This design has two additional emitters mounted on antennae to focus and stabilize the beam. The emitter head has a screw thread so a new emitter ring can be screwed on. I did design an emitter head, but with the stabilizers, the shape wasn't very satisfying, so that went unfabricated.

The base was left with an opening, which I imagined would allow it to plug into the TARDIS. This worked out well as it left room for Custom Sonics to install a charging port.

The brass rings were inspired by the Dalek Time Controller and The Rani's TARDIS console.

The silvery metallic blue colour was inspired by K-9.

The emerald and brass colours were chosen simply because it's my favourite colour combination. The use of brass was also inspired by clockwork, with its obvious relation to time travel and my own personal enjoyment of clockwork.

So that's my custom Sonic Screwdriver!

[hugintheraven]

Since you asked (and also I'm curious your take), what RWBY weapons the Animorphs havin' in your head?

So this is also going to go into semblances etc because one of the things I like about RWBY is that all of that is connected. Ruby's weapon only exists in the context of her being a speedster, Yang wears shotgun gauntlets because getting hit while she gets close is a good thing, etc.

I also had to really work to avoid the instinctive "everyone gets clawed gauntlets" option, because Tiger Claws/Gorilla Fists/Bear Claws are just iconic looks but we don't need 4 chars like that.

Elfangor: A kusarigama, which is a chain with a knife at one end and a sickle at the other, used like a complex whip. This requires little explanation, it's just such a good match for the Andalite tail. He's an insect faunus antennae. His semblance is the ability to sense other's semblances with his antennae, which is both how he recruits random kids and has them turn out to be very effective, and how he's so good in a fight(he always knows what his oppts are trying to do). Blue.

Jake: Yeah, he gets clawed gauntlets, with the claws able to launch like grappling hooks(similar to Ren's weapons in later seasons). Close-up brutal weapons, designed to ensure the fight stays close-up. His semblance is Reflexes, he can slow the world down. He doesn't move any faster when he does, but he thinks faster, which both makes him a deadly close-up fighter and an extremely effective leader when things go bad. Orange.

Rachel: Rachel goes unarmed, because her semblance is Morphing. If she, or someone, kills a Grimm near her, instead of it vaporizing, it collapses into the death liquid. She can use that liquid to turn herself into any Grimm she's fought before. Which would be really strong, but it starts off useless if there aren't Grimm around, and she's not sure how much of her love of battle is her wanting to protect others and how much is the evil she soaks herself in every fight. That question gets worse when she stops needing to kill Grimm because she can just sprout the black liquid to transform herself. Yellow with red accents(when she transforms, the yellow vanishes and the red remains amongst the black).

Cassie: Tonfa that are also pistols. (Tonfa are t-shaped batons: skill heavy weapons better for defense than offense and great against other weapons). They're mostly hard to kill with, but can be extremely effective when they need to be, which fits her and her endurance-based combat. Her semblance is healing, which is on-the-nose but I wanted one of the kids to be able to patch up exposed intestines and decided to make it her. The fact that she can also stop someone's heart if she wants to makes her throw up when she realizes, but she does it in desperate situations. Purple.

Marco: A sniper rifle/boar spear, which is a heavy spear with a crossguard to keep dangerous things from getting impaled, running up the spear, and savaging the wielder before death. He likes keeping far from danger. The crossguard can be collapsed to use like a normal spear(or used as a mount when sniping), which is better against humans and also usually what gets him stabbed(Marco's the Weiss of the group). Semblance is Guerilla Warfare, he can shroud his allies, blurring distinguishing features to make them harder to recognize during fights. Silver.

Tobias: Recurved bow. He stabs with an arrow if someone gets close, but as an insect faunus with wings(and a semblance that makes him lighter so he can use them), he mostly tries to fly out of enemy's reach and snipe. Their first big fight, he screwed that up, and a Lancer punched through his spine. Cassie couldn't get there to heal him in time, Rachel was too busy fighting to notice, and Jake saw it happen but couldn't warn him fast enough. Now he flies, but can't walk, and the only member of the team who doesn't blame himself for that is Marco. Brown with red accents.

Ax: Elfangor's kusarigama. No explanation needed there. Ax is a similar faunus to his brother, but he's mute, and uses his semblance, Thought Speak, to communicate via broadcasts from his antenna. Blue.

I went back and forth on whether Rachel or Cassie should morph while the other heals, but Rachel turning into an Ursa/Megoliath won out. The color schemes are a guess, I'm no artist. I really wanted to make Tobias a hawk faunus, but the link to Ax/Elfangor had to happen.

[feder-costumes]

Part two of the Artemis headgear! Here we came to the 'inmovable factors' of the whole thing: everything needed to be secure on my head, without being painfull or restricting BUT everything also needed to be detachable for easier transport.

So... the idea was to have a mount inside the wig where I can mount everything on. At first I tried for a wig with mount + headgear version but soon realised that it would be easier to have the horns and the moons seperate. So what I ended up with was a weirdly shaped headband with some antennas, made from sturdy craftboard, shaped to my head, with an adjustable elastic band in the back, pokeing out of the wig, where I can attach the horns to with screws. Getting the orientation of the little antennas right, so the horns would point in the right directions took some trial and error with the heatgun but then it look really promising. Please enjoy this goofy video of me testing how it would hold up to constant head movement. I didn't intent for the horns to have this much jiggle but it causes me _immense_ joy bc I _love_ secondary movement in costumes (or character designs overall). With the horns out of the way, the headband with the moons could be much smaller and less of a constraption and more of an... well, headband. I used some leather leftovers, I've dyed a darker shade of green as base and glued everything onto that. (insert 2h montage of me upturing every box and shelf for find those golden bangle thingies I knew I had SOMEWHERE but couldn't find) And then sewed several hairpins onto the inside, so I could hook it into the wignet itself. Addionly the front middle has a magnet, that attaches to an corresponding magnet inside the wig to keep it from slipping and hold it centered. The back has another slim elastic, which I thread though the braid in the back to hold the band snug to the sides of my head and give it a bit more hold on my head. I have to say that I felt immense relieve when I tried this on the first time and realisd that my plan would work???? Like.... I was high from that feeling. I was crunching the rest of this costume within two weeks before the convention and my plan for the headgear not working out was my greatest fear bc I had no other idea how to do it. Or it working and then being uncomftable or painfull to wear or something. But then it just... worked. Yay me! And now that I also wore it to a convention... it also works for a whole convention day. And it's also comftable for a whole convention day. I have to secure the wig, so the weight of the braid doesn't pull it back but the headgear? Super secure. Easy to put on, considering everything. Comfy to wear. Fyear success.

[neververy4]

Got the Radio recapped! Here it is working with all new capacitors :)

Previous Update

Still haven’t decided on if I’ll put this in my car; once I get around to ordering a CB radio antenna, I’ll see if the CB part functions. My car’s current radio is a year-matching AM/FM/8-Track; while this one adds in a CB function, it’s newer enough to feel out of place, AND it’s not a GM car (This is a Delco-GM radio). I already have a CB antenna installed on the car with a Cobra LTD 29 mounted on the dash, so putting this in would mean removing the other CB and leaving the screw holes exposed

[idsoultionsindia]

RFID Tags: The Future of Smart Inventory Management

An RFID tag, at its core, consists of two components – an antenna for transmitting and receiving signals, and an RFID chip (or integrated circuit, IC) storing the tag’s ID and other data. These tags are attached to items, facilitating their tracking using an RFID reader and antenna. Efficiency is paramount in inventory management. Saving time with increased accuracy poses an ongoing challenge for inventory managers across industries. Utilizing RFID Technology in inventory management, where each item is equipped with an RFID Tag and strategically placed readers or handheld RFID readers are used for rapid inventory, is rapidly gaining traction. This trend is driven by complexities arising from the sheer volume of inventory items, the rapid technological advancements, and the ever-expanding retail sector.

Moreover, current inventory management methods rely on manual counting processes or manual barcode scanning, both of which are time-consuming and not always accurate, resulting in potential sales losses or poor customer experiences.

Selecting the right RFID Tag for your inventory management system is crucial for its success. Below are some key considerations when choosing the appropriate RFID Tag:

Size & Form Factor: The size of the tag directly impacts its read range. Choosing the size based on the form factor of the RFID tags, such as wet inlays, labels, hard tags, or high-temperature tags, is essential.

Read Range: The appropriate read range, determined by the chip and RFID reader, should align with the application requirements, typically ranging from 3 feet to 12 feet.

Attachment Method: Various attachment options, including adhesive, magnet, screw, riveting, stitching, or hot stamping, are available and can also be customized.

Mounting Surface: Selecting the right tag for the existing mounting surface is crucial for optimal RFID performance. Metal surfaces, for instance, require specific Mount on metal tags rather than standard labels or tags.

Hundreds of RFID tags are available in diverse shapes and sizes, offering options tailored to specific environments, surface materials, and applications. Choosing the ideal tag for the application, environment, and item material is vital for optimal performance.

A successful inventory management system provides a clear, accurate view of inventory always. It offers item-level visibility and maintains historical records, enabling a chain of custody for each product. Users can track a specific product's journey from arrival to sale, allowing for detailed reports on product trends, replenishment information, and product visibility and display success.

[skyshop-fpv]

Afterburner 5 O3 6S HD | skyshop fpv

Afterburner - The Performance 5inch by 2RAW and iFlight

NOT A FREESTYLE DRONE - Afterburner is designed for professional pilots who use their FPV drones for cinematic work, this drone is not designed around being crashed into concrete and coming out fine. The drone is designed around aerodynamics and balance.

Highlight

Smallest Footprint

Afterburner has a 20% smaller footprint than traditional 5inch freestyle frames, this allows for easier transportation as well as increased agility and less drag - meaning better all round performance.

Aero Shell

The aeroshell controls the airflow around the body and within the drone. As the speed of the drone increases the aero shell acts as an air divider, preventing air from hitting the flat top plate. The shell also helps to shield the electronics from dirt and moisture so you can have more confidence in critical situations.

Advanced Truss Arms

The star design combined with the trusses ensures great stiffness while keeping the weight down, and perfect balance, delivering exceptional results when it comes to filming with buttery footage.

Bottom Mount Battery

Inspired from FPV racers, we took a bottom mount battery approach, this allows the battery to cause minimal drag possible and completely clears the top of the drone to allow for the Gopro mounting as well as clear line of sight for the GPS. Afterburner was built for the cinema pilot! The central battery also allows the CG to remain close to the middle of the body allowing for improved agility in the air.

No Prop in view with Gopro

In 16:9 the GoPro has no props in the view from 5 degrees all the way to 60 degrees.

DJI O3 HD Air Unit Low-Latency Digital Transmission

Up to 10 km video transmission range, enjoy a crisp and smooth real-time view in your goggles, even in environments with interference. (Source DJI)

4K Stabilized Video with 155° Ultra-Wide Angle

Together with high-grade imaging performance, it delivers exceptional visuals that will keep your audience on the edge of their seats. (Source DJI)

Specifications

Product Name: Afterburner 5 O3 6S HD

FC: BLITZ F7 Flight Controller

ESC: BLITZ E55 4-IN-1 2-6S 55A ESC

Video Transmission: DJI O3 Air Unit

Geometry: X-Frame

Frame: 210 mm wheelbase

Motor: XING2 2207 1750KV motors

Prop: GEMFAN 5.1X3.6X3 propellers

Weight: 472±7g (Without Battery)

Dimensions (L×W×H)：148x148x64mm

Max Speed: 160km/h

Maximum Takeoff Altitude: 7000 m

Max Hover Time: Approx. 11mins with 6S Lipo 1400mAh battery W/O Load

Operating Temperature Range: -10° to 40° C

Antennas: Single Antennas

GNSS: GPS+SBAS+Galileo+QZSS+Glonass

Video Transmission

Product Name: DJI O3 Air Unit

Communication Bandwidth: Max 40 MHz

FOV (single screen): 155°

Communication Frequency：2.400-2.4835 GHz (RX only) / 5.725-5.850 GHz (RX and TX)

End-to-End Latency

With DJI FPV Goggles V2:

810p/120fps Video Transmission Quality: The latency is lower than 28 ms.

810p/60fps Video Transmission Quality: The latency is lower than 40 ms.

With DJI Goggles 2:

1080p/100fps Video Transmission Quality: The latency is as low as 30 ms.

1080p/60fps Video Transmission Quality: The latency is as low as 40 ms.

Max Video Transmission Bitrate: 50 Mbps

Max Video Transmission Range：10 km (FCC), 2 km (CE), 6 km (SRRC)

Operating Temperature Range: -10º to 40º C (14° to 104° F)

Power Input: 7.4-26.4 V

Audio Transmission: N/A

Packing List

1 x Afterburner 5 O3 6S HD BNF

1 x Screw Bag

2 x Battery Strap

2 x Battery pads

[udo0stories]

  Notice: This page contains links that are sponsored by the affiliate programs of Amazon, Rakuten Advertising, eBa, Skimlinks, and Liliputing. All prices are subject to change, and the prices mentioned in this article are the most recent as of the time of publication. This article only represents the prices that were in effect at the time of publication; all prices are subject to change.   One of the things that makes the Raspberry Pi 5 different from previous models is its fastest processor to date. However, that is not all. Its PCIe connector is another, allowing for fast connections to expansion boards. Many businesses have created HATs that enable you to connect a PCIe NVMe SSD to a Raspberry Pi 5 using that PCIe connector. However, the MCUzone MPW7 is a little different—it is a tiny board with an M.2 2230 module attachment port. You can purchase the MPW7 for as little as $10 (shipping included) on AliExpress. Why would someone want to upgrade their Raspberry Pi 5 with an M.2 2230 connector? The tiny computer's integrated hardware is limited to WiFi 5 and Bluetooth 5.0 because wireless connectivity is supported by design. With the help of this adapter, you can add a WiFi 6, WiFi 6E, or WiFi 7 module that supports more network bands, lower latency, and faster speeds, among other features. The board is said to support wireless modules by MCUZone, including Intel's: The board, an FPC cable (for connecting to the PCIe interface on a Raspberry Pi 5), and a set of four screws for mounting the board on top of the single-board computer are all included in the $10 starting price for the MPW7. Customers who intend to add a wireless module to the board may want to invest an additional $2 or so in a package that also comes with two wireless antennas. Alternatively, for a little bit extra, you can purchase a bundle that also comes with an aluminum case made to hold a Raspberry Pi 5 + MPW7. But the MPW7 isn’t only useful for connecting wireless cards. You can also use it for other M.2 2230 cards, including an AI accelerator featuring Google Edge TPU coprocessors. One other thing to keep in mind is that if you plan to use the MPW7 for Bluetooth, you’ll need to run a cable from a connector on the board to one of the Raspberry Pi’s USB ports. via CNX Software The two main revenue streams for Liliputing are affiliate links and advertising. For example, if you click the "Shop" button at the top of the page and make a purchase on Amazon, we will receive a small commission. Nevertheless, even if you detest online shopping and use an ad blocker, there are a few ways you can directly support the website.    

[hkxytech]

Siemens 6GK5895-6ML00-0AA0 GPS antenna Antenna

Siemens 6GK5895-6ML00-0AA0 ANT895-6ML GPS antenna Antenna with integrated signal amplifier incl. 0.3 m connection cable and N-Connect female connection; 3 dBi, IP67 (-40…+85 ??C) Mounting with magnet or Screw mounting Observe national approvals; compact instructions as hard copy German/English; scope of delivery: 1x ANT 895-6ML. Model: 6GK5895-6ML00-0AA0Categories: Industrial EthernetBrand:…

[rfantenna]

2G/3G/4G Combo Screw Mount Antenna with RG174 Cable (L-3MTR) + SMA (M) St. Connector

A 2G/3G/4G combo screw mount antenna is a type of antenna designed to support multiple generations of cellular technology, namely 2G (GSM), 3G (UMTS), and 4G (LTE). These antennas are typically used in applications where there's a need for reliable cellular communication across different generations of networks.

The "screw mount" aspect refers to how the antenna is installed; it typically involves screwing the antenna onto a suitable surface, such as the roof of a vehicle or a fixed structure. This type of mounting provides stability and durability, making it suitable for outdoor and rugged environments.

[garagedoorrepair0]

What Could be the Reason Behind the Issues in Opening Garage Doors?

It can be really worse if your garage door isn't shutting or opening as it should be. Because the majority of owners store expensive tools and equipment in their garages, so security must be given priority. 

The reason for issues in garage door opening may not be limited to one or two problems but can be many. So, to know why your garage door is not opening or closing properly, read below:

The Garage Door Keypad or Remote not Working Properly

If the garage door is not opening or closing properly, the reason may be that the mounted keypad or remote control has stopped operating. It is possible that the keypad or remote control's battery needs to be changed if the door opens through the hardwired wall switch. 

Check to see if the motor unit's loose wire antenna is damaged-free and hanging downward if the battery is functioning properly. Suppose you find that the problem is more complex, immediately contact Garage Door Repair Hicksville NY.

Check the Rollers and Tracks.

If your sensors are working properly, still the door won't open or close properly. Check the tracks to make sure there are no obstacles blocking the garage door's path. A damaged roller or a bent track may have the same outcome. If a portion is destroyed, it is usually possible to bend it back into place using clamps or strategically placed hammer blows.

The Limit Screws should be Adjusted.

You may need to adjust the limit screws if your garage door is stuck halfway closed but not fully retracting. It is simple to change the contacts on these screws, which provide the garage door opener with the necessary. You can contact Garage Door Repair in Westbury NY, if you find it difficult to adjust the screw.

Final Thoughts

If you have limited time, experience, or abilities that prevent you from accessing your garage, and if the solutions seem too complicated, consider getting professional assistance. Look for the best Garage door Replacement NYC who can handle your task efficiently.

[eteilytech]

915MHZ SCREW MOUNT ANTENNA

[pagandad]

These are pictures of an outdoor antenna of my own design for use with vintage communications receivers and other antique radios which require an outdoor antenna to work their best It is designed to be omnidirectional to radio signals, yet reject the interference created by the 160,000 volt TVA power lines running over my pasture a couple of hundred feet away. A 16 gauge stranded copper wire goes from the top cap where it is secured to a brass screw, down through the long upper section, then out of the pipe, and is wrapped around the outside of the pipe to add apparent length to the antenna. It then goes back inside the pipe for the last little bit ending soldered to the center contact of an S)-239 connector mounted to the bottom end cap. The loading coil section is wrapped with a double layer of black electrical tape to protect it from the weather, and prevent the wires shifting or being damaged.

[htpowlaserenraver]

Powerful Ortur Laser Master 3 Detailed Review

The Ortur Laser Master 3 laser cutter and engraver features a 10W diode laser that can engrave at speeds up to 20,000mm/min and cut wood up to 19mm thick. It has built-in WiFi and a powerful smartphone app to create and wirelessly send custom projects directly to the engraver.

I'll go over all of its features and thoroughly test Orturs' claims to see if this is the right laser engraver for you. If you haven't learned about this technology, please take a look at my previous article introducing this technology to help you quickly understand.

My box arrived a bit worn out but everything inside was well protected. Basic assembly is required, but should take no more than 30 minutes to assemble. I don't recommend using the supplied user manual - the illustrations are too small - go to the Ortur website and find a link to a YouTube video of the assembly, or check out the manual online so you can at least zoom in to take a closer look at the more tedious steps.

You can see everything that comes in the box, which includes some safety specs and a handy little storage box with tools and parts. There are also some wood, acrylic and metal samples to test the engraver.

The easiest way is to start assembly from the top down. Thread the Y-axis motor cable through the left Y-axis, then connect the left and right Y-axis with one bolt. The frame of the router is not a standard aluminum extrusion - Ortur makes custom parts that are well machined and lock precisely into place, ensuring the frame is square.

Once the Y axis is in place, you can slide over the already assembled X axis. Then mount the straps on both sides, which you need to blindly hook onto the pulleys inside the back assembly. It's a bit of a hassle, but if you're really stuck, you can remove the end cap so you can see what you're doing.

Then you need to attach the idler. Fit them loosely and loop the straps around them. Set its position with the included set screw to set the belt tension. There is a marker showing their best position. You can then screw the pulleys into place. If the strap is too loose or too tight, you can loosen these bolts and adjust the set screws.

You can then use the single bolt again on both sides to attach the front assembly. Connect the motherboard connector on the connector and connect the Y-axis cable that was pulled earlier. This was the most troublesome bit for me - it was very difficult to plug in the little connector.

You can then connect the other end of the connector to the X-axis motor and use the provided zip ties to loosely hold this rather bulky cable in place. Then connect the laser's cable to the socket marked "L" and secure loosely in place with a zip tie.

The laser module is already equipped with an air-assisted nozzle and a laser shield. It slides onto the X-axis using a dovetail mechanism and can be locked into its vertical position with a thumbscrew.

Plug the laser cable into the laser module using the keyed 5-pin connector. It's all very neat, making the laser module very easy to remove to clean the lens, remove the air assist nozzle, or replace another laser module in the future.

You can then install two stop bolts to the front of the engraver to prevent the laser head from hitting the front assembly. Slide the X axis onto these stop bolts, then slide the belts on both sides into the toothed belt grooves so everything is square. Screw on the WiFi antenna to complete the assembly.

This is the smartest engraver I've ever seen, and it's well made and solid.

My only two real criticisms are the rotary scroll wheel switch, which, while useful, is rather exposed and looks a bit cheap. What's more, the bulky wiring machine lacks any cable management.

It's easy to get caught in things, so I 3D printed a small zip tie base and taped it to the side of the router with double sided tape, which helps keep things organized.

It's a very low-profile machine, for reasons I'll get to later, but you'll still need quite a bit of room. Above you can see the required working space for the machine. The dimensions listed on the Ortur website seem to be a bit off. But if you want to move it around, it's pretty light at 4.3kg.

The top of the front assembly has a power button that requires a long press to turn on and off, and a multi-color LED ring that glows to indicate its status. Then there is a barrel lock with key provided and emergency stop button. Keyed locks are a welcome feature if you have young children around or want to use them at a school or makerspace. You will need to make sure the lock is in the open position and reset the position by turning the emergency stop button clockwise to open the machine.

Behind the front assembly is a microSD card slot in a rather awkward position, with a reset and boot switch next to it.

On the left side of the front assembly are the USB port for connecting to a computer, the DC jack for connecting an AC adapter, and the WiFi antenna.

The Y-axis switch on the back needs to be in the Y-motor position, unless you're using the rotary wheel that connects to the port below the switch.

The OLM3 features a 10W laser module combined with two 5.5W laser diodes. It has a 0.05 x 0.1mm focal spot and an 8mm depth of field, providing a good combination of engraving and cutting performance. Its 400mm x 400mm capacity is average for an open diode laser machine of this type, but smaller than the TwoTrees TS2 I saw last month.

Its biggest selling point is speed. Ortur cites an engraving speed of 20,000 mm/min, twice the engraving speed of a typical 10W laser. It achieves this through its low profile design and relatively compact and light laser module. But this low-profile design does mean that you'll need to lift the router to machine thicker items, especially if you're using a honeycomb cutting table. Ortur does sell foldable feet to increase its height, but I haven't received any to try.

Before I go on to discuss testing, if you're new to all this, be sure to see my previous article covering laser safety. The article also covers the basics of laser engraving and cutting, and the basics of using software like Lightburn which I will be using with OLM3. At least from a safety standpoint, you must wear the included laser safety glasses.

The Ortur does have some extra security features along with the key lock and panic button I mentioned earlier. It has tilt protection, which turns off the laser if the machine falls off the table, and it has exposure duration detection in case the motor stops moving for any reason. If the laser is left on at the same location, it may cause a fire.

Before you can turn on the laser engraver, you will need to install a microSD card - the engraver will not work without it. Be careful not to miss the microSD slot and slide it into the front assembly frame. I then connected the Ortur to my computer with the provided USB cable. You will be able to view the contents of the microSD card through this USB connection.

Unusually, this is a USB-A to USB-A cable, rather than a typical printer cable that has a square USB-B connector on the other end. In Lightburn you can also use the free LaserGRBL, add the engraver manually and select the GRBL with USB connection and set the size to 400mm x 400mm. The home position is on the front left, and you can disable auto-homing, as it will do it anyway. The laser has a focal length of 50mm and the laser module has a convenient spread out arm to set the correct height above the workpiece.

I found the extension arm to be a little flimsy, and it didn't lock into place. The adjustment changes slightly as you tighten the thumbscrew, so it takes some practice to get this right. I prefer the motorized automatic height adjustment feature on the Two Trees TS2, which also lets you automatically lower the Z height when making multiple cuts.

I wanted to test the high-speed claim first, so I engraved a grayscale photo of this cork coaster. I'm using 20,000mm/min, 0.1mm line spacing, 100% power, it's too dark as you can see. In Lightburn you can adjust the speed and power during printing, I ended up with 50% power for the last third of the engraving and it looks about the same. Printing takes approximately 8 minutes.

Ortur provides helpful guidelines for engraving and cutting various materials on the included microSD card. This is a good starting point, but I recommend using the material testing functionality in Lightburn to fine-tune your setup for best results.

For Basswood plywood, Ortur recommends 15,000 mm/min at 100% power. Using the Lightburn material test, I engraved this test image, which I would say is about correct, but I darkened it a bit and engraved the same image again at 12,500 mm/s.

I also tried engraving these coated aluminum business cards and after a little rubbing with isopropyl alcohol it worked really well. I again used Ortur's recommended settings: 3000 mm/min at 25% power. Although these coatings do give off some nasty smoke, even when extracted.

The 10W laser is even powerful enough to engrave stainless steel. You don't need to apply any coatings, and the little name tag performed really well at Ortur's recommended 2000mm/min and 100% power - even though my text did get a bit off center.

I cut and engraved a small tag out of leather less than 2mm thick and it came out perfectly - even the small holes were precise and rounded, which is a challenge for these belt driven machines.

When cutting, you can use the built-in air-assisted nozzle, but you'll need to provide your own pump. I tried it with a cheap pump from Fox Alien, but it was actually worse than no pump at all, as you can see below.

With the fan turned on along with the laser, the laser module itself seems to generate enough air for lighter cuts.

For deeper cuts, I used the main compressor with its digital regulator set to 15 PSI, which did give sharper results.

Ortur does offer some additional fittings to work with the air supply hose, but I just used a 3D printed adapter to connect it directly to my compressor hose. The hose fits directly into the laser module. It's a bit of a hassle, but you need to push down on this black collar to retract the little barb that grabs the hose to insert and release the hose. I attached it loosely to the router to keep it tidy and keep it from getting tangled.

The air nozzle can be easily removed when engraving. Just squeeze the laser shield lightly and unscrew the nozzle. This is a very clever design.

Like all of these diode laser makers, Ortur has some bold claims to make when it comes to cutting. According to their website, this 10W module has a maximum cutting depth of 30mm. Although looking more closely at their materials chart, this is using black acrylic, 17 passes at 100mm/min and 100% power, so you don't want to do this too often, even if possible.

But the more typical, stronger birch plywood was more of a challenge. With the air assist from the compressor I can cut 100% at 200mm/min most of the time. But the 10W TwoTrees TS2 can cut the same sheet at 300mm/min.

Jog the laser into position using the app with WiFi The OLM3 also has built-in WiFi, and you can easily connect to the machine using the free Laser Explorer app. The app does far more than I expected. You can select an image or text to engrave, create barcodes and QR codes, but what I find most useful is using it to precisely nudge the position of the laser. The machine doesn't have a built-in LCD screen to control the engraver, but the app is a useful substitute. I would be a little wary of using it for sculpting, though. When I turn on the laser to line up jobs, it sets the power at 4%, which is way too high and starts burning a spot on the material if you're not careful. I can't get it lower than 1% - in Lightburn I use 0.25%, which is enough to see the laser dot.

Connect Wirelessly to Your Engraver Using Lightburn I still prefer to use Lightburn to send jobs, and I did find the app disconnect a few times while testing. You can also access Engraver's own server via the IP address visible in the app. I was able to connect to Lightburn's engraver from a computer connected via ethernet. I just added another device and selected ethernet. Using this machine wirelessly is convenient, but I haven't had 100% success with it, with a few prints randomly aborting during printing.

The laser engraver is completely silent when not engraving. The fan is only turned off when the laser is on, when the laser is off the fan turns itself off after a few seconds. The fan is loud when running, but the motor runs very quietly. You can hear it in action in the accompanying video. The overall feeling is that of a very refined carver.

The Ortur Laser Master 3 is a very well designed machine that delivers some really good results. Its engraving performance is particularly impressive, with its high speed and fine laser spot. Setup is super easy, and I especially like how the belt and pulleys hide dirt and grime.

The integrated WiFi is a great feature, not only for use with the smartphone app, but also for wireless printing from the Lightburn, even if I didn't get 100% reliable results in my testing.