#saxifragaceae
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francescointoppa · 1 year ago
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S – Saxifraga rotundifolia L. – Sassifraga a foglie rotonde (Saxifragaceae)
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faguscarolinensis · 9 months ago
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Astilbe chinensis 'Visions' / 'Visions' False Goat's Beard at the Sarah P. Duke Gardens at Duke University in Durham, NC
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blogflores0 · 4 months ago
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Heuchera (Heuchera sp)
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Nome Científico: Heuchera sp Nomes Populares: Heuchera Família: Saxifragaceae Categoria: Folhagens, Forrações à Meia Sombra, Forrações ao Sol Pleno, Gramados e Forrações Clima: Mediterrâneo, Oceânico, Subtropical, Temperado Origem: América do Norte, Canadá, Estados Unidos Altura: 0.4 a 0.6 metros, 0.6 a 0.9 metros Luminosidade: Meia Sombra, Sol Pleno Ciclo de Vida: Perene
Sobre a heuchera
A heuchera é muito popular no paisagismo de países de clima temperado, como na Europa e na América do Norte, onde acrescentam cores vibrantes e textura a maciços, bordaduras, assim como em canteiros mistos, contrastando com outras espécies e variedades. A heuchera é uma planta herbáceas, de folhagem e florescimento ornamentais, originária da América do Norte, onde são conhecidas como “Coral Bells“, que significa “Sinos de Coral” na tradução literal. De crescimento compacto, elas chamam a atenção principalmente pela folhagem vistosa, colorida nas diferentes variedades e que lembram as begónias rex. Deve ser cultivada sob sol pleno ou meia sombra, em solo arejado, drenável, rico em matéria orgânica e irrigado regularmente. Geralmente as variedades de cores claras preferem locais mais sombreados, enquanto que as variedades com forte pigmentação vermelha ou arroxeada são preparadas para resistir em canteiros ensolarados. Há no entanto, sempre que verificar as necessidades de cada cultivo no momento da compra, assegurando-se de que nível de luminosidade a planta em questão prefere. https://youtu.be/BOg3tTHah60 Multiplica-se por divisão das touceiras e por sementes Há centenas de cultivos com diferentes cores e tons de amarelo-limão, bronze, vinho, rosa, violeta, vermelho, chocolate, amarelo ocre e uma infinidade de verdes. Também ocorrem belas variações em cores distintas das do restante da folha. Floresce no Verão, despontando altas inflorescências do tipo paníncula, com numerosas flores em forma de sino, que podem ser róseas, vermelhas, amarelas, verdes ou brancas, de acordo com a variedade. Estimule novas florações na mesma estação, removendo as inflorescências velhas das plantas que já floresceram. Renove anualmente a sua folhagem através de uma poda mais drástica, realizada no início da Primavera, removendo assim as folhas danificadas pelo inverno e iluminando as novas folhas que surgem na base da planta.
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Cuidados com os Sinos de Coral Os sinos de coral são uma planta bastante fácil de cultivar num local semi-sombreado, num solo bem drenado e organicamente rico. Existem algumas cultivares híbridas que se podem sair bastante bem a pleno sol - embora necessitem de mais água para prosperar. Esta planta é uma boa escolha para dar cor a uma paisagem cheia de árvores de sombra. Embora os sinos de coral não necessitem de muita manutenção, é possível cortar todo o caule da flor após a floração para colocar a energia da planta no crescimento de mais folhas. Se as folhas ficarem um pouco esfarrapadas, especialmente depois do Inverno, cortá-las e um novo crescimento deve preencher-se rapidamente. A decapitação regular das flores desbotadas ajudará a assegurar uma floração repetida durante todo o Verão e no Outono.
Tipos Sinos de Coral
As diferenças mais notáveis entre as variedades podem ser vistas nas suas variações de cor e textura da folhagem. Há dezenas destas cultivares, incluindo: Heuchera 'Folhas de Outono': Como o seu nome indica, as folhas desta variedade híbrida mudam de cor ao longo das estações, do vermelho ao caramelo e ao rubi. Heuchera 'Ruffles de Chocolate': Esta variedade híbrida tem folhas rugosas com rica cor de chocolate na parte superior e borgonha profunda na parte inferior. Heuchera 'Especiaria Verde': Este híbrido robusto tem folhas verdes grandes que são vencidas em castanho-avermelhado. Heuchera 'Marmelada': Outra cultivar híbrida de fritos, as folhas desta versão aparecem em tons que vão desde umber a terra de siena profunda. Heuchera 'Citronelle: esta variedade tem folhas verde-amareladas brilhantes que são excelentes para iluminar áreas sombreadas. Heuchera 'Electric Lime': Esta variedade impressionante tem folhas verdes brilhantes com veias vermelho-sangue. Heuchera 'Chefe do fogo': A folhagem primaveril vermelha brilhante aprofunda-se lentamente até ao carmesim à medida que a estação avança. Mais info: https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heuchera Read the full article
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drhoz · 6 months ago
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#2554 - Carpodetus serratus - Marble Leaf
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Names in te reo Māori include putaputāwētā, kaiwētā, and punawētā all of which refer to its association with New Zealand large flightless crickets, which often live in holes in the trunk bored by Pūriri moth caterpillars. Also called the bucket-of-water-tree because the fresh wood is so excessively sappy it's difficult to burn.
A 10m tree, endemic to New Zealand, originally placed in the Saxifragaceae, then moved to the Escalloniaceae, and most recently to the Rousseaceae. Other species in the genus are found in New Guinea, the Solomon Islands, and Vanuatu.
Grown in gardens for its attractive foliage, compact younger shrub form, fragrant flowers and chewy black berries.
St Arnaud, Southern Alps, New Zealand.
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kadunudtarkus · 2 years ago
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Bergeenia
Bergenia crassifolia (L). Fritsch, Saxifragaceae Kahelehine bergeenia Bergenia
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Kahelehine bergeenia on meil aedades, sageli kiviktaimlates kasvav mitmeaastane taim.
Ravimina kasutatakse bergeenia juurte vedelekstrakti.
Seda kasutatakse põletikuliste haiguste, günekoloogiliste verejooksude ja igemepõletiku puhul.
Bergeenia juuri korjatakse juunis ja juulis.
Kirjeldus
Kahelehine bergeenia on meil aedades, sageli kiviktaimlates kasvav mitmeaastane, kuni 50cm kõrgune taim. Pärineb Siberist. Varred on jämedad ja paljad. Lehed juurumise kodarikuna, läikivad, nahkjad, talvituvad, ümardunud või laielliptilised, 15-30cm pikad ja kuni 30cm laiad, pikarootsulised, vahel südaja algusega. Õied mõlemasugulised, tipmistes kännasjates õisikutes. Tupp viietine, tupplehed alusel liitunud, tipmed kuni 4mm pikad. Kroon kellukjas, viietine, lahklehine; kroonlehed punakaslillad, äraspidimunajad. Õitseb mais ja juunis.
Ravim
Droogiks kasutatakse juurikaid - rhizoma Bergeniae. Juunis või juulis kaevatakse juurikad välja, puhastatakse mullast ja peentest juurtest, pestakse, lõigatakse pikuti lõhki ja kuivatatakse. Piiratud ulatuses kasutatakse ka kahelehise bergeenia lehti.
Droog sisaldab 15-28% parkaineid, mis valdavas enamikus kuuluvad pürogalloolgruppi, ja vabu polüfenoole. Juurikais on ka isokumariin-glükosiidi bergeniini, rohkesti tärklist ja suhkruid.
Rohkesti parkaineid sisaldavad ka lehed, peale selle vaba gallushapet, kuni 22% arvutiini ja 2-4% vaba hüdokinooni.
Toimed
Kahelehise bergeenia preparaate, peamiselt vedelekstrakti - extractum Bergeniae fluidum - kasutatakse koliitide puhul, günekoloogilises praktikas verejooksu sulgeva vahendina ning igemepõletiku vastu.
Allikad
Tammeorg, J., Kook, O. & Vilbaste, G. (1973). Eesti NSV Ravimtaimed. Tallinn: Valgus.
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anantam-ayurveda · 8 days ago
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Pashanabhed (Bergenia ligulata): Pashanbhed uses
Introduction of Pashanabhed
Pashanabhed (Bergenia ligulata) is a revered medicinal herb in Ayurveda, known for its stone-breaking properties, particularly in urinary disorders and kidney stones. The name Pashanabhed literally translates to “stone breaker”, highlighting its potential in dissolving and expelling urinary calculi. This powerful herb has been extensively used for centuries in Ayurvedic formulations for its diuretic, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Botanical Description and Habitat of Pashanabhed
Bergenia ligulata, belonging to the Saxifragaceae family, is a perennial creeping herb found in the Himalayan regions at altitudes ranging from 900 to 3000 meters. The plant thrives in rocky terrain and shaded moist areas, growing between the wedges of mountain stones. It has thick rhizomes, fleshy leaves, and pink to purple flowers, with a reddish-colored root contributing to its medicinal properties.
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Vernacular Names of Pashanabhed
Pashanabhed is known by different names in various languages:
Hindi: Pakhanbhed, Patharchoor
Gujarati: Pakhanbhed
Bengali: Patharkuchi
Sinhalese: Pahanabeya
Arabic: Junteyenah
Assamese: Patharkuchi
Kannada: Pashanbhedi, Hittaga, Pasanaberu, Hittulaka
Tamil: Sirupilai
Punjabi: Kachalu
Telugu: Kondapindi
Malayalam: Kallurvanchi, Kallurvanni, Kallorvanchi
Sanskrit Synonyms of Pashanabhed
Pashanabhed has multiple Sanskrit synonyms that reflect its urolithic action and growing pattern:
Ashmagna – Destroys renal stones
Sailobheda – Penetrates through stones
Upalabhedaka – Destroys the flat surface of stones
Shilabheda – Grows between the wedges of stones
Drushadbheda, Prasthara, Nagabheda
Botanical Description and Habitat of Pashanabhed
Bergenia ligulata, belonging to the Saxifragaceae family, is a perennial creeping herb found in the Himalayan regions at altitudes ranging from 900 to 3000 meters. The plant thrives in rocky terrain and shaded moist areas, growing between the wedges of mountain stones. It has thick rhizomes, fleshy leaves, and pink to purple flowers, with a reddish-colored root contributing to its medicinal properties.
Morphology of Pashanabhed
Plant Habit:
Pashanabhed is a perennial herb that grows in a dense, branched form.
Root:
Color: A rich red hue.
Thickness: Ranges from 2 to 5 cm.
Stem:
Structure: The stem is short, thick, fleshy, and sprawls across the ground.
Leaves:
Shape: Broad and ovate.
Dimensions: Between 12 and 25 cm across.
Attachment: The leaves are sessile, lacking a petiole.
Tip: Rounded edges.
Texture: The leaf surface is fringed with fine, short hairs.
Flowers:
Colors: Vary from white to shades of pink or purple.
Blooming Period: Primarily blooms during April and May.
Size: Each flower measures about 3 cm in diameter.
Arrangement: The flowers are arranged in a cymose panicle, with multiple branches emerging from a central point.
Fruits:
Type: A drupe, typically orange or red in color.
Valuable Part: Rhizome/Root:
Size: The dried rhizome is cut into pieces measuring up to 6 cm long and 1 to 2 cm in diameter.
Outer Surface: The rhizome’s surface is reddish-brown, wrinkled, or irregularly shriveled, with leaf remnants at the upper end and root scars beneath.
Inner Structure:
Bark: 2 to 3 mm thick.
Cambium Layer: Light-colored and distinct.
Wood: Encases a central, spongy pith.
Breaking Characteristics: When broken, the rhizome reveals a brick-red interior, but the process is challenging.
Scent: A faint but characteristic odor.
Taste: Bitter and slightly astringent.
READ MORE
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tameblog · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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ramestoryworld · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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alexha2210 · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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angusstory · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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francescointoppa · 8 months ago
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Sassifraga a foglie rotonde (Saxifraga rotundifolia L., Saxifragaceae)
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faguscarolinensis · 9 months ago
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Astilbe chinensis 'Purple Candles' / 'Purple Candles' False Goat's Beard
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tumibaba · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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blogflores0 · 11 months ago
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romaleen · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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monaleen101 · 3 months ago
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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