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jo-shaneflorence18 · 5 years ago

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Cinque Terre (or Quattro Terre for us)

10/05/2018: We left before six this morning as we had a lot to do. It was good to get around early as there were none of us around, that is, tourists. The streets were empty save the vacuum trucks brooming off and washing the pavement of any trace of last night's hordes and their disarray.

The dawn clean up. Preparing for another day of onslaught

Macca's for breakfast and a two hour train trip to the five medieval fishing villages of Cinque Terre and our first opportunity for a swim, in clean water that is. After a brisk walk to the station rather than taxis, we caught the eight past seven regional train from Santa Maria Novella to Firenze Campo di Marte for the seven thirty six through train to eventually, Naples. We would get off at La Spezia Centrale, wait for a quarter of an hour and then board a suburban train for the twenty odd minute trip to the most northern of the five towns, Monterosso Al Mare.

Good start to the day

Waiting at Firenze Campo di Marte for the next train to Napoli

Monterosso Station was, as expected, right on the water. It also sat between the new part of town to the west and facing the sea from the thirteenth century old town, situated beyond the rocky headland and facing the safe harbour, albeit separated by the ugly railway overpass that allowed us to get there.

We walked off the platform and were immediately confronted with Rocky the dog, sitting on his blanket with a sign begging for money so he could presumably seek treatment for his ailments, cataracts, cancer and arthrosis. We gave him a glance, descended the stairs to the street below and crossed via Fegina to be welcomed by a beautiful view of the Ligurian Sea. The first time that we had seen it for a few years. Crossing the single lane road was a simple process as with a zebra crossing and not much traffic to contend with, we stepped straight onto the narrow paved viewing platform, bounded on each end by a curved ramp that allowed us to access the sand below.

Rocky the dog

The next twenty minutes were very therapeutic. Once on the beach the small pebbles and coarse grains of sand both massaged and cut into our feet. It felt a little painful but seemed good for the soul, or soles, as we walked. Working our way towards the headland and the large rock formation that dominated the landscape towards the end, the deck chairs and umbrellas were making an appearance with ropes delineating sections of beach that were being progressively cordoned off. To the east, the beach dude was well on top of setting up. Banana chairs out and umbrellas not far behind. The dude at the other end of the beach was dragging the chain. Maybe it was the same dude and he hadn't got around to it. Maybe not.

The water was clear and turquoise and looked inviting. We were soft though and although to swim was one of our aims for the day, after we dipped our feet into the water, as much as it was enjoyable, it was a bit too fresh. We gave a dip in the Mediterranean Sea a miss and stuck to the shore line, venturing in to our knees as we strolled towards Aurora Tower.

Old mate setting up for the day. Clouds and all

This guy must have had a day off

Lo Scoglio di Monterosso. You need to pay for this beach at times

Not far beyond Lo Scoglio di Monterosso there was a bit more sand but it quickly turned to boulders that formed the point where Aurora Tower stood. We back tracked a bit and found the roadway above. We had walked as far as possible and had only done so due to the time of year. In peak season the beach is blocked off, umbrellas and beach lounges erected and change rooms and lock ups made available. All at a cost. Twenty five to thirty euros for the day. More if you want the front row.

The tower was built by the Genovese during the fifteen hundreds, forming part of a defensive cordon to ward off pirates. Once located at the edge of town, the tower and the castle ruins delineate the old town of Monterosso and the Fegina. At the foot of the tower, the road entered a tunnel cut through the rock while the pedestrian path kept to the coast, allowing people to enjoy the view. Jo and Cec took the tunnel, the gents took the path.

Looking towards the tunnel to Monterosso Vecchio. Aurora Tower in the background

Another private beach around the point at Monterosso Vecchio. €25 a day

Meeting at the tunnels end, we wandered down what was still via Fegina, under the railway and into a small but interesting market selling homewares more than anything. Handy stuff for the kitchen. Coffee pots, saucepans, utensils and the like. Nothing there for us but. We were looking for a rest and a drink which we found along with the many souvenir shops that lined the caruggi. A quick look around and off to the ferry wharf.

A rest for the nanas, Facebook time

We knew which boat that we wanted and it had pulled in but with still a distance to cover before we were actually there, some urgency was required as we had yet to purchase tickets. The queue at the ticket seller only increased our anxiety but thinking that we would miss out was in the end unfounded as there were plenty queueing to get on after those on board disembarked. It ended up being a descent wait rather than running late. By eleven thirty we had boarded the ferry to Vernazza and were on our way.

Goodbye Monterosso

Hello Vernazza

As we approached Vernazza, we were greeted by the best view available. Clusters of houses clutching the cliffs, the fourteenth century church on the harbour and the town's defences including the castle and two watch towers, built hundreds of years earlier, all in perspective. The seas were a little rough but disembarking the ferry was a safe and simple process. Under the gaze of Castello Doria and its Belforte Tower, we braved the gang plank and moved around the concrete break water that protected the harbour. A lovely sight, people soaking up the sun when the opportunity arose, fishermen tending to their boats and many hundreds of tourists moving back and forth from the breakwater to the main street. All to a backdrop of Ligurian houses painted hues of rosé and saffron fornenting the timeworn Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia, and all alee the rich green of the hills behind.

Old mate tieing up his boat. Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia to the left, via Visconti ahead

We were only here for a while though, a quick look around. It was after mid day and time for a feed. A lap of via Visconti and via Roma allowed us to make a call. Back to near the harbour, to a corner restaurant that we had frequented with the kids last time we were there, Pizzeria Lercari Ercole. It drew our attention with the pizza oven near the front window where could watch the cook place pizzas and bread into the wood fired oven. Initially we sat under the umbrellas at the front but were offered seating at the rear of the premises after speaking to the waitress. A lot more secluded. We were initially the only ones out there but it soon changed and before long the small courtyard was full. Good ploy to keep the tables out front empty so passers by got the impression that there was plenty of room. This was a good meal, good pasta for some but more importantly, some delicious mussels for Beau. He did enjoy them as well as the Birra Moretti.

Looking for a feed. The cave leading to Vernazza Beach was cordoned off

Mussels for lunch, good choice

Soon after lunch the move to the next town was on. Heading up to the train station and too lazy to climb the paths to Corniglia, the next stop would be Manarola Station. There was a considerable crowd, on the train and on the platforms. So much so that when we arrived at Manarola Station, it took a long time to get to the tunnel entrance that linked the platforms to the town. Just as many people were trying to access the platforms from the tunnel as were trying to access the tunnel from the platforms. The stairs under the tracks travelling south were a particular pinch point, causing gridlock. Upon exiting the tunnel we headed down hill, up the ramp that took us past a small square full of kids playing football, down the ramp on the other side and into via Renato Birolli to the water. After surveying the shore from the platform above the water, we walked up the path towards the scenic viewpoint on the northern headland and overlooked the rocky outcrops that partially protected the town from the sea and sunbaking area and launch pad for those game enough to jump in for a swim. Given the number of boats in the streets and along the rocky cliffs above the shoreline, one would be forgiven for thinking that Manarola was a fishing village, similar to those we just visited. Most of the boats were for show though. Manarola is traditionally an olive growing and wine producing area.

Swimmers and others relaxing in the sun

Extending our walk around to see if the Lovers Walk was open, as it was closed several years earlier due to landslides, we were disappointed to find that it was still closed and the track in disrepair. On our return we scaled the steep steps that led us to the picnic area above Nessun Dorma restaurant and another set to Cimitero di Manarola, returning back down to Cec and eventually the shops at the tunnel entrance. This is where we left her again to walk up the hill to the church.

Looking back at Manarola across the top of the sun shades at the restaurant

With Cecilia doing her own thing, the rest of us commenced the ten minute walk up the via Antonio Discovolo incline to an area that Jo had visited by herself last time we were there and recommended the view from above. The road followed the creek closely all the way until the last steep climb to the right, where the road passed over. This was the introduction to a small open area bounded by a church and bell tower on opposite sides. Piazzale Papa Innocenzo IV was dedicated to the Pope, a local character called Sinibaldo Fieschi who lived from 1195 until 1254 and was pope from 1243 until his death from pleurisy whilst still in office. The locals may have been clutching at straws a bit as records were not the best so he could have been born during any number of years and in several places. Good story though. To our right was the view back down the valley and over the township, dominated by a large bell tower which at some stage doubled as a watch tower when the town was under threat from Saracen pirate raids.

POPE INNOCENT IV SQUARE

A TRADITION THAT WAS BORN

IN MANAROLA IN THE ROLANDA HOUSE

To our left was Chiesa di San Lorenzo, built in the thirteen hundreds after a bit of a population boom due to increased activity in the area. Apart from the impressive rose window above the front door, the church had a triptych hanging on the back wall from a similar period.

Looking inside Chiesa di San Lorenzo with the triptych representing Madonna with the Child and Saints at the back of the alter

The hills above Chiesa di San Lorenzo full of day trippers with energy to burn

Our next step was to leave the town and head to our final destination, Riomaggiore. We were going by ferry again so needed to get back down to the bottom of the town and manoeuvre the steps and pathway which led us along the waterfront, past the marble breakwater, through the slit in the granite cliff and to the boarding area. Having not referred to a timetable, we were there with plenty of time to spare and mostly alone. The weather was still fickle with sunscreen being applied by passers by when we arrived to showers by the time the ferry had arrived. It was just after three and a half an hour wait was ahead of us.

Sunscreen one minute, umbrellas the next

In transit to Riomaggiore

By four we were on land again and the sun was out. Just around the rocks from Spiagga del Paese, we climbed the stair and battled the crowds as we made our way towards the main street. Riomaggiore may have been the last to visit but it was certainly the most dramatic. Looking like it hadn't been touched for years, the steepness of the streetscape and height of buildings certainly cast a shadow over the narrow and congested main street. This town had a small harbour that was user friendly when compared with Manarola shown by the number of boats in the street and the fact that some could be hired.

The town's steep streetscape. An impressive welcoming view

It was getting on in the day and we had had enough. Wandering up via Columbo and looking for a sit down, we came across Costeve', a restaurant serving pretty well everything, including wine. Some had a drink, some didn't but before too long we were looking in the shops and working our way to the station to prepare for the train journey back to Florence. Paying particular attention to the correct platform. We needed to travel towards Pisa, not Genoa.

Too much action for one day

A couple of hours on the train allowed us to recharge our batteries before the walk from Santa Maria Novella back to the apartment. From there it was a midnight game of Trivial Pursuit and bed.

Not too many arguments tonight. It was too late

Tomorrow the Accademia & Uffizi.

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europeantravel1 · 4 years ago

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Cinque Terre Vacation and Other Italian Gems

Cinque Terre 4 day Romantic Vacation

Located along the Liguarian coast of northwest Italy, Cinque Terre is one of the most beautiful places in Europe. It’s easy to see why: multi-colored historical houses cling onto craggy cliffs, with steep green terraced vineyards carved into them.

Translating to mean “five lands”, Cinque Terre is actually made up of five fishing villages built into the foot of mountains along the coast. While they are no longer the isolated hamlets they once were, but there’s still a feeling of authenticity, with perfectly preserved architecture and a network of stunning trails. The Cinque Terre area is a popular tourist destination. Over the centuries, people have built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the Ligurian Sea. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages as cars can reach them from the outside only via narrow and precarious mountain roads with great difficulty. To help you plan your journey, I am sharing our 4-day Cinque Terre itinerary, along with things to do in Cinque Terre and where to eat and stay in each village. This itinerary will allow you to maximize your time in Cinque Terre. For more detailed info on visiting Cinque Terre, check out my Cinque Terre travel guide.

Cinque Terre 4 day Itinerary

Best Time to Visit Cinque Terre

I recommend visiting Cinque Terre in early spring (April) or late autumn (November). With the vaccines being rolled out late Autumn in 2021 is what I would target if you want to go this year. Late Autumn and early Spring are also when it is the least crowded and prices are not too high. The weather can be unpredictable though. We visited at the middle of May I'm 2019 and Cinque Terre was already pretty crowded. There were long lines at the train stations and restaurants. Even the hiking trails were packed with throngs of tourists. Cinque Terre gets extremely crowded in summer, peak travel season in Europe. It’s also really hot (temperatures rising to 86°F or 30°C) and not ideal for hiking if you intend to do that. Winter is cool and uncrowded but heavy rainfall can result in landslides and unsafe hiking conditions. Restaurants and hiking trails close around end of November and open on 1st April.

How Many Days Should You Spend in Cinque Terre?

Cinque Terre is extremely popular with day-trippers — there are many day tours to Cinque Terre from Florence, Pisa and La Spezia. However, we definitely don’t recommend doing a day trip here as Cinque Terre definitely merits more time than that. It is however easy to add on days at other Italian gems before or after which you can read about below. We spent 4 days in Cinque Terre and still wished we had more time. If you are visiting Cinque Terre with kids, then I suggest spending a week here as kids need to travel at a slower pace and will like lots of beach time. If you do want to hike the Cinque Terre trails, then I suggest having 1 week in Cinque Terre to slowly explore the area on foot. More details below on hiking in Cinque Terre.

Our Cinque Terre Itinerary

Most of the Cinque Terre villages (except Monterosso) are tiny, so you can see each of them in 1 day. If you are wondering what to do in Cinque Terre, refer to my detailed itinerary below to get an idea. Which is the best Cinque Terre town? Check out my guide on where to stay in Cinque Terre. Your starting point depends on where you’re staying. This Cinque Terre itinerary is designed for those staying in Riomaggiore or La Spezia (outside of Cinque Terre). Day 1: Riomaggiore Day 2: Manarola Day 3: Corniglia and Vernazza Day 4: Monterosso al Mare If you are staying in Monterosso or Levanto (outside of Cinque Terre), just reverse the Cinque Terre itinerary. Day 1: Monterosso al Mare Day 2: Corniglia and Vernazza Day 3: Manarola Day 4: Riomaggiore

Cinque Terre Itinerary: Things to Do in Cinque Terre

Itinerary Day 1: Riomaggiore The first stop on our Cinque Terre itinerary is Riomaggiore, the first village you’ll find if you’re coming from La Spezia. You can choose to hike or take the Cinque Terre Express train to get around Cinque Terre: it only takes 4-6 minutes to get from one village to another. Scroll to the end of this Cinque Terre itinerary for more details on how to get around Cinque Terre.

Best Things to Do in Riomaggiore In my opinion, Riomaggiore has the most romantic setting. Despite having the biggest population, it feels surprisingly tiny. After you leave the train station, head straight to the waterfront as that is the most picturesque part of Riomaggiore. Snap photos of the pastel-colored buildings, sit on the steps with a gelato in hand, or meander all the way up the slopes to the left of the harbor (when facing the sea) for the best views. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also cliff jump from here. Then walk all the way up to the higher end of Riomaggiore where the beautiful Church of San Giovanni Battista stands and enjoy the panoramic views. Alternatively, sign up for this 3-hour food and wine tour in Riomaggiore to delve deep into the culinary scene here.

Where to Eat in Riomaggiore A Pie’ de Ma’ — Simple and traditional, this rustic restaurant has a romantic ambiance. You can also enjoy aperitifs and wine while you watch the sunset behind the cliffs. Dau Cila —Dishing up Liguarian classics, this Michelin-starred restaurant is one of the most respected places in Cinque Terre. We had the best meal on this trip here. Definitely book a table in advance! Trattoria La Grotta — This family-run restaurant serves fresh-from-the-sea dishes and high quality local produce. Don’t miss the anchovies and steak tartare.

Itinerary Day 2: Manarola For me, this is hands down the most beautiful town in Cinque Terre. If you’ve seen a photo from Cinque Terre, it was probably taken here. The colorful historical buildings slide down all the way to the rocky harbor, which can be admired from an easily walkable loop along the coast. I recommend staying in Manarola, so you can spend your evenings sitting on one of the benches overlooking the waterfront. You’ll have the whole place to yourself!

Best Things to Do in Manarola The town’s train station is located on the flat part of town, surrounded by shops, gelato stalls, and restaurants. Take your time to admire the narrow alleys and piazza before continuing towards the waterfront. Follow the coastal loop that brings you up to Nessun Dorma, the most famous restaurant/bar in Cinque Terre, before ending at Punta Bonfiglio. It’s a short uphill hike, with fabulous views and a playground. In the evenings, many locals and tourists gather here to catch sunset. Manarola is most famous for wine production. You can even hike up to the grapevines on the slopes above the town. Sign up for this wine tasting tour to sample wine made in Manarola and visit its vineyards.

Where to Eat in Manarola Il Porticciolo — A hot favorite in Cinque Terre, this seafood restaurant has a great selection of pasta dishes and to-die-for desserts. Highly recommend the tagliatelle frutti di mare! Ristorante Marina Piccola — This is my favorite restaurant on this list, with perfect views of the sunset and flavorful wine wine mussels. Nessun Dorma — Perched on the waterfront hills above Manarola, this cafe is probably the most famous in Cinque Terre. It has an open terrace with literally the best views in Manarola. Sadly they don’t take reservations and lines to dine here are long.

Itinerary Day 3: Corniglia and Vernazza Sitting atop a 100m-high rocky promontory surrounded by vineyards, Corniglia is the only village that lacks direct access to the sea. You’ll need to climb 382 steps of Scalinata Lardarina to get there from the train station. There’s also a free bus that will bring you up, but it’s often crowded. For most, Corniglia lacks the coastal appeal that draws so many to Cinque Terre. But that also means it is the most authentic and least crowded of them all, and prices of hotels are the most reasonable here.

Best Things to Do in Corniglia Corniglia is the smallest of the Cinque Terre towns, characterized by tangled alleys, hilly terraces and bohemian cafes. This is the most authentic town with the least tourists. Have an Aperol Spritz at one of its many outdoor bars, scour the vintages stores or visit the Oratorio dei Disciplinati di Santa Caterina church. For the best views, hike up to Santa Maria panoramic terrace and see the whole town from above.

Best Things to Do in Vernazza From Corniglia, catch the train over to Vernazza, centrally located in Cinque Terre. The main square is located right by the harbor, flanked by multi-hued buildings and dome-roofed chapels. I found this town to be the most crowded as it’s the hot favorite among travelers. The town has a marina and a small beach where you can catch a boat or take a dip in. Visit Santa Margherita di Antiochia Church by the beach before climbing up the steps to the watch tower of Doria Castle for panoramic views of Vernazza. Read the full article

#Europe #europeantravel #italy #italytravel #cinqueterra

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