#same with grindavík
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"why did the people of Grindavík build their town on top of a volcano, why would they live somewhere in a dangerous area like this" I don't know how to put it for you but last time there had been volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula prior to the 2021 eruption was over 800 years ago. people simply didn't know. how are you gonna be able to tell that an area will see a volcanic activity again if it's been 800 years give or take since last volcanic activity. especially when these things are difficult to forecast, even for the most versed of geologists
#hazy rambles#yknow i could say the same about americans who insist on living in areas that get hit with hurricanes and whatnot#this callousness helps nobody#this was also the case with they heimaey eruption in the 70s#people didn't know there would be an eruption#i know it's not totally fair to compare grindavík to heimaey since the equipment in the 70s was nowhere nearly as good#but still#people simply didn't know there'd be an eruption in heimaey#they just didn't#same with grindavík#anyways as said this callousness helps nobody#people of grindavík are dealing with something horrible even if the area doesn't see an eruption in the end#the town is absolutely wrecked#also you aren't funny
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hope the volcanic fissure doesnt cause even further damage upon the town of Grindavík like having the earth open up to destroy roads and infrastructure is bad enough. That town aint in a great location.
Yeah same, hoping the damage will be minimal
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Late last week, on Iceland’s Reykjanes Peninsula, a concerning sequence of earthquakes suddenly turned into a full-blown volcanic crisis. A burst of intense and frequent seismic shaking, accompanied by a convulsing crust, suggested that a huge volume of magma was rapidly burrowing its way toward Svartsengi, the site of a major geothermal power plant and, close by, the coastal town of Grindavík, home to 3,500 people.
The region now nervously sits atop a vast sheet of magma simmering just half a mile belowground. At some point, likely within the coming days, it will probably erupt somewhere along a 10-mile-long line stretching from northeast of the town to a little ways out to sea. The two big questions, exactly where the eruption will get started and how severe it will be, are impossible to answer. But scientists watching the area closely have other questions, too: How did these eruptions go from safe spectacle to a potentially town-smothering danger? And why, after so much recent and violent movement, is the magma now just sitting there?
In some ways, this is exactly what magma here is expected to do. “This activity is very much in line with much Icelandic volcanism,” says Mike Burton, a volcanologist at the University of Manchester. “But the specifics of each crisis are always unique.” And much of the problem this time around has to do with the location this batch of magma has decided to camp in—and why it’s never obvious where an eruption on the peninsula may occur.
When people usually think of eruptions, they picture a mountain-shaped edifice with lava exploding out of a central vent at the summit or bleeding out of its flanks. Iceland does have those sorts of volcanoes, but the Reykjanes Peninsula also specializes in fissure-style eruptions: cracks in the ground that open, often with little warning, when magma below forces its way to the surface.
Magma cracking through the crust creates specific types of earthquakes, and along with the changing shape of the ground you can broadly track where this magma is going and how much magma is involved. But when molten rock reaches the uppermost section of the crust, it can very easily push those rocks aside—and the seismic activity often drops off just prior to an eruption commencing somewhere in the area.
“In the preceding Fagradalsfjall eruptions, we had a pause in the earthquakes some days before the eruption started. Just based on that, I would expect the same, but of course that's not a guarantee,” says Evgenia Ilyinskaya, a volcanologist at the University of Leeds.
That makes it extremely difficult to know in advance precisely where the next fissure will appear. Fortunately, the seismic storm that has rocked the peninsula in recent days has indicated that it is probably going to emerge within or somewhere very close to Grindavík, a vital clue that ultimately allowed authorities to get people out of harm’s way before any lava saw the sky.
Curiously, the peninsula’s past three eruptions (in 2021, 2022, and this summer) all emerged from closely spaced fissures near to the isolated Fagradalsfjall mountain. These outpourings filled up uninhabited valleys with crimson and tangerine rivers of molten rock and were often watched by curious onlookers from the surrounding hills, poked at by scientists, and celebrated by Icelanders as a showcase of their geologically dynamic country’s natural splendor.
But earlier this month, scientists tracked what appeared to be a huge volume of magma gathering below the Svartsengi area. It quickly rose toward the town of Grindavík last Friday night, stopping just shy of the surface and consequently prompting the town’s swift evacuation.
Even knowing that the next eruption could happen in one of several places on the peninsula, including somewhere a little closer to urban infrastructure, this development still shocked scientists. “The extension of the seismic activity under the town of Grindavík and the shallow waters south of the town did come as a surprise, simply because previous volcanic fissures have not extended so far southwest,” says Þorvaldur Þórðarson, a volcanologist at the University of Iceland.
Why the sudden shift? Scientists suspect that the 2021 eruption kicked off a decades-long period of fissure eruptions across the peninsula; something similar happened 800 years prior. This possible fourth eruption is certainly part of that new era. But it isn’t clear how the magmatism at Fagradalsfjall and Svartsengi are connected. These are not clearly segregated volcanoes, but rather volcanic networks with poorly defined boundaries.
“Some have thoughts that the systems are linked at depth,” says Edward Marshall, a geochemist at the University of Iceland—either directly, with magma flowing between the two subterranean mazes, or indirectly, where they trade pressure. But any geologic connection between Fagradalsfjall and Svartsengi is tenuous at best, making understanding why magma ascends at the former several times, then switches to the latter, a tall order.
This investigative effort is further complicated by the current crisis’s additional idiosyncrasies. Over the past few years, Thorbjörn—a volcanic mound close to the Svartsengi geothermal power station and Grindavík—has occasionally inflated, perhaps due to the movement of magma somewhere below, but this has always ended without incident. The events of the past week “certainly mark a break in that pattern,” says Tom Winder, a volcano seismologist at the University of Cambridge.
Initial estimates hint that the amount of magma involved is more substantial than the peninsula’s past three eruptions, and it also flowed into the Svartsengi area at an astonishing speed. “Why the magma inflow rate appears to be so much higher this time, and indeed where it was sourced from, remains an important open question,” says Winder. Considering the seemingly hefty volume of magma, the potential for a long-lived eruption, or an otherwise very prolific eruption of lava, is high—but paradoxically, as with many eruptions, it could be that only a fraction of that molten rock sees daylight.
That the magma hurriedly rose toward Grindavík late last week, then paused just beneath its now-empty streets, has engendered both curiosity and anxiety. The reasons for this interlude are not quite clear. During the 2021 eruption, there was a three-week gap between the magmatic curtain invading the shallow subsurface and the emergence of the eruption itself. The same may transpire this time. Or it may erupt after you finish reading this article—there is no surefire way to know.
That there will even be an eruption isn’t certain. Presently, based on the proximity of the magma to the surface and the constant seismic rumbling, Iceland’s Meteorological Office suspects that there is a very high likelihood of an eruption, somewhere along that 10-mile-long line of deformed and quaking ground, in the coming days. But there is nevertheless a small chance that the magma cannot find an escape route and remains belowground for the foreseeable future.
Forecasting the nature, timing, and—in this case—location of upcoming volcanic eruptions are exercises in reducing uncertainty. Volcanology, as a research field, has made huge scientific and technological leaps in recent decades, giving researchers an unprecedented level of understanding of the nature of Earth’s magmatic depths.
But just think about weather forecasts. Weather is something scientists can directly sample, observe, and study, and forecasts a few days into the future can be very accurate. But the weather in several weeks’ time cannot be accurately predicted. Volcanologists have to deal with something that, until it erupts, is out of sight—so, for now, forecasting the style, onset, and duration of the next Icelandic eruption is exceedingly difficult.
The peninsula, though, isn’t helpless. The two things Iceland’s scientists and emergency responders needed to do—monitor the magma around the clock while using that data to make sure harm to life and property is minimized—are being efficiently acted upon. The residents of Grindavík are being kept away from the volcanic risk, and a protective wall is being constructed around the Svartsengi geothermal plant to redirect any incoming lava.
Whenever and wherever the outburst in this region begins—if it happens at all—the events of the past week have “brought home how fortunate we have been over the past three years,” says Winder. Sadly, it seems it was only a matter of time before this new eruptive era turned from a delight into a plight.
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A new volcanic eruption has begun spewing huge amounts of lava over 100 feet into the air at the Sundhnúks crater in Iceland.
Powerful seismic activity was detected at the Reykjanes Peninsula crater series just before 11 a.m. local time today, sparking major concerns that the volcano was about to erupt. The eruption then began at 12:46 p.m.
"An eruption has started near Sundhnúk and seems to be located northeast of Sýlingafell. The jets reach a height of at least 50 meters [154 feet] and the length of the crater appears to be over 1 kilometer [0.62 miles]," the Icelandic Meteorological Office (IMO) said in a statement at midday local time on Wednesday.
"The plume [of smoke] reached a height of about 3.5 km [2.17 miles] at the beginning of the eruption," it added.
This led to hundreds of people being evacuated from the nearby Blue Lagoon, as reported in Icelandic media outlet Morgunblaðið.
Livestreams from the Reykjanes Peninsula show huge fountains of lava spurting out from the ground at the Sundhnúkur crater, just north of the town of Grindavík.
"The lava has flowed about 1 km to the west and there is a large flow south of Stóra-Scógfell, which approaches Grindavíkurveg. When it was a little over two o'clock, the fountain was about 3.4 km," the IMO said in a statement released at 2:15 p.m. local time. "The outflow velocity of the lava is roughly estimated at 1,000 m3/s."
This is the fifth time that this volcano has erupted since December, having previously sent huge flows of molten rock seeping across large swaths of the Reykjanes Peninsula on December 18 last year, January 14, February 8, and then again on March 16. These eruptions occurred at varying locations across the region, with new fissures forming above the enormous magma dike sitting just underneath the surface.
"The movement of magma in Iceland is influenced by the region's unique tectonic setting, dynamics within magma chambers, crustal stresses and fractures, interactions with water and ice, the complexity of the volcanic feeding system, and the physical properties of the magma itself. These factors can cause magma to move from its original location to a new eruptive site," David Kitchen, an associate professor of geology at the University of Richmond, told Newsweek.
The IMO said that this new eruption appears to be in the same location as the most recent one in March.
"The first crack has reached the farthest to the south and is about 300-400 meters north of the crater that was formed in the eruption that started on March 16."
During these previous eruptions, the nearby fishing town of Grindavík—home to around 4,000 people—was evacuated, and several homes were burned to the ground after a river of lava crept into the town. According to a post to X by RÚV, Iceland's national broadcasting company, Grindavík has been evacuated once again in anticipation of today's eruption.
The nearby Blue Lagoon has also been evacuated, with about 800 visitors and staff being evacuated as soon as the seismic activity was detected.
"As always, we have taken measures to be able to respond to an evacuation at any time, and I expect that they will continue," Helga Árnadóttir, manager of sales, operations and services at the Blue Lagoon, told Morgunblaðið.
The Icelandic Coast Guard helicopter has recently been deployed to determine the exact location and size of the eruption, with the IMO posting videos from the flight to Facebook.
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WE'VE GOT LAVA!
That's a link to a live feed of some webcams that are pointed at the eruption site.
CLICK LINK, DO NOT VISIT THE LOCATION OF THE ERUPTION!
There's elevated gas levels and LAVA IS NOT SAFE!
Enjoy the footage instead.
It won't give you quite the same awe inspiring sense of scale, of how infinitesimally small you are when held up against the raw power of the very earth beneath your feet, how fragile you are as a mere human being, no more powerful than the smallest ant in a forest fire, how the very rock upon which all life is suspended can simply swallow us all whole and none would be left to tell the tale, but on the other hand you're not going to die from exposure from getting lost in the bleak Icelandic wilderness during the darkest days of the year when we get a mere 2-3 hours a day of daylight (not sunlight, Daylight, sun doesn't really fully rise in a lot of places, so, you know, no sun, just dawn straight into dusk with a little bit of glare in between if you're lucky or somewhere flat enough) as our charity run older scout organizations try their best to find you, alone, in the dark, in the cold.
Thankfully it didn't surface under the town of Grindavík nor under the nearby power plant or Blue Lagoon. That doesn't mean any of these are currently open as they're still within the zone of danger and it doesn't mean any of these have escaped the earthquakes unscathed. Many of the homes in Grindavík have taken a lot of damage, but people have been able to go in and get their personal property and their pets, so there's that. Anywho. Enjoy Iceland's holiday volcanic eruption of 2023. <3
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I will definitely miss this new eruption in Iceland yet again, probably will stick to the same pattern with a fissure eruption. I’m hoping that Grindavík will be safe in the next coming days as magmatic dikes have intruded close to the township and extend a fair distance out from that region.
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Stefán Karl Stefánsson with a lecture on bullying in primary schools
An article from mbl.is about Stefán Karl's lecture in Gríndavík's primary school on the 8th of October 2002.
Content warning: The article mentions death and suicide.
Record attendance at the parents' association
STEFÁN Karl Stefánsson, an actor, attended the Grindavík Primary School hall to give a speech about bullying. The Parents' Association got Stefán to come, and never before had such a large number of people come to listen to a speech organized by the Parents' Association of Grindavík Primary School. The hall was full, about 230 people, although the school has 430 students in total.
"We called him and were thinking about a meeting even after the end of the year, but since he could meet us now with almost no notice, we jumped at him. What Stefán is doing is attracting attention and he is doing a great job, as you can see in the meeting here tonight," said Þorsteinn G. Kristjánsson, chairman of the Parents' Association.
At the beginning, Stefán only hinted at the incredible agreement between companies and organizations that he, together with others, is setting up. This agreement is with Vífilfell, Búnaðarbankinn et al. which enable the organization, Rainbow Children, to work for a long time. The association will be officially founded on October 17th.
It was stated in Stefán's case that his lectures have grown to over 400 lectures, in four years. During the meetings, the same thing never happens, as Stefán doesn't use computers, videos or other media, but asks people to use their ears and compared his meetings to a séance. Silence would come, he would get out and so on. "I want it to be light and fun next to the real thing," said Stefán. It can be said that people both laughed and cried at this meeting, as Stefán knows how to keep people's attention and make people think.
Pessimistic today
Stefán talked about how important it is to know our children and know how they feel. "I have seen children who are dead! I have been called 52 times for child suicide attempts. There are a lot of 6-year-old children who want to die and even in kindergartens too. We work too much and don't spend enough time with children. I'm pessimistic. This is how it is today," said Stefán. Then he brought up issues such as children's internet use and the point of who was watching the children? What about the video games and their content? said Stefan.
In a conversation with a journalist, Stefán wanted to convey his gratitude to the nation for the great welcome, warmth and encouragement he has received. "There is a lot going on in these matters, a website is being opened, an account will be opened for general donations and it is really important that we all put our hands to the plow in this important matter," he said.
Photo from mbl.is, taken by Garðar Vignisson.
#stefán karl#stefan karl stefansson#stefan karl#stefán karl stefánsson#robbie rotten#rainbow children#2002
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Akureyjarkirkja Church (1912)
This old country church just happened to be across from the Lindartún Guesthouse where I stayed one evening while in Iceland. I did a little research and apparently this church used the same plans as a church built in 1901 called Grindavík. Needless to say, it was a nice spot to stop for a sunrise shot on my way out the next day.
#photographers on tumblr#landscape#iceland#winter#rural#country#church#sunrise#sky#clouds#cemetery#picket fence#arhitecture
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Culinary adventure around Iceland
There are many reasons to explain Iceland’s popularity today. The Blue Lagoon, the Fjords, the waterfalls, the glaciers, the horses, the puffins, and the whales come to mind. Then there is Thor and the food. Oh, the food. What is produced in Iceland is some of the purest and most full of flavor and respect. There is a love for tradition in Iceland and what the land has given the people. The traditions that came during the time of the Vikings have remained over time.
On this magical island, in the middle of the Atlantic far up north, there is truly something special that happens to the food. To truly comprehend the role food plays in Iceland, you must understand how the land, sea, people, and traditions come together to influence the culture around food. The residents of Iceland have a deep respect for all of these influences and the abundance of resources it has been bestowed with.
The Land
Iceland is a country made up of rich volcanic soil. Trees do not grow high. In fact the joke is, “If you get lost in a forest in Iceland, stand up”. There are multiple reasons to explain this fact. The growing seasons are short, yet fruitful. There are very rocky cliffs and mountains that are not useable for growing, but provide other resources like rich mosses and greens. They provide sustenance for the Icelandic free-range lamb to feed on once they are set out in spring.
The land is also affected by the light and often, harsh weather. There are 24 hours of light during the growing season, causing many plants to become confused if not native to the land. And while produce is not abundant, root vegetable, berries and nutrient-rich greens are. Animals, plants and people have had to adapt to respect the growing conditions they are provided. Finally, the land is alive with geothermal hot spots, providing for both green house growing and hot pots to cook in. Today, people are still cooking meals and breads in the earth.
The Sea
The sea around Iceland is key to both the sustenance of the people and its commerce. The purity of the sea provides a fertile growing ground for fish, sea kelps, and aquaculture in the form of muscles, and more recently oysters. Farmers are now also using the sea to farm fish on the land, using seawater as well as the nearby geothermal heating.
Iceland has some of the best regulations on fishing and you will not find the greed present in other countries. There is a kindness and respect for what the sea provides. Fishermen understand that without carefully monitoring and regulating fishing, they could destroy both their diets and livelihoods.
The People
The culinary wonders of Iceland would be nothing if not for the people. First, you need to understand their kind nature. The people are welcoming, inclusive and have a true respect for both their history and the land. This translates to a profound respect and proudness of their food. When an Icelandic speaks of a red currant or an arctic char their face lights up. Many farmers and fishermen today still live on the farms and fish with two and three generations of their families.
When people speak of the food of Iceland, it is in terms of what they have, not of what they do not have. They speak about the success of others with pride and have the same reverence for the home chefs as the chefs at leading restaurants. The people are not just kind to others, but to the land and the many benefits and nutrition it provides them.
The Traditions
Over generations in most countries, traditions are pushed aside for what is easier and what is in style. This does not hold true in Iceland. Here, tradition is deeply rooted in everything that encompasses food. The reason is simple; the land, sea and weather drive the way in which food is both produced and consumed. Although maybe there is something to the tradition of the elves… It is no gimmick that today bread is still baked in the land; it is both delicious and possible. Why heat an oven when you can use the land? Electricity is very expensive and solar is tough during the winter months, so using the earth is just smart.
Sheep with their newborns are not set out to the mountains to feed for the summer because it is convenient. It is because this is where the animals can find the food that best suits them. Then, the farmers all gather at the end of the season and work together to bring the animals home. Tradition drives the way food is raised, farmer, caught, prepared and served.
The Innovation
Iceland is not just driven by tradition. In order to both meet the needs of the residents and demands of the exports, there have been some wonderful innovations over the last few years. The two main innovations have been greenhouse farming and aquaculture.
Greenhouses have been around for a while, but are not seeded in deep traditions. Over the years, Icelandic farmers have been determined to provide for themselves and others as best they could. They knew that with the natural geothermal resources, they could grow produce in greenhouses. Today greens, strawberries, vegetables, herbs and more are grown for year-round use.
The second way in which the land, the water, and the geothermal resources are being used is with growing fish. Muscles and oysters are being farmed. In fact, oysters were one of the original farmed products in the world. The fish farms are producing some of the most delicious fish being shipped all over the world. Not only are they using the geothermal resources and the ocean waters, but also gravity in building the farms, so that very little non-natural resources are needed.
The Food
If we look back at traditions and natural resources, it is evident that there are key foods that drive the culinary pedestal for Iceland; cod, char, salmon, lamb, berries and rye. Other foods of import to the diet include birch, seaweed, salt, and herbs. No matter what meal you sit for, you can be assured that bread, butter, skyr, lamb and fish will play a role. Also influenced by the Nordic countries, you will find open-faced sandwiches and flat breads.
Restaurants to Experience
Iceland is full of restaurants that specialize in the native food. In fact, trying to find a restaurant that does not serve local food can be a challenge. It is hard to go wrong when picking a restaurant and equally hard trying to make a decision about which cafe to stop in for a quick bite. They are all so wonderful.
Here are a few restaurants that should be on your where to eat list!
The Fish Company - Located in the old part of downtown Reykjavik, the Fish Company is the local favorite. The menu is covered with local seafood, meat, produce, and more. Start with the Reindeer Carpaccio and then enjoy the “Around Iceland” tasting menu for dinner. The meal features the local cod, gravlax, lamb, honey, and so much more. The meal is also perfect for a Einstok beer pairing. While the food is the highlight at he Fish Company, the restaurant is beautiful. The cozy setting is filled with intriguing artwork, candles, and soft cozy nooks. Grounded in being both “exciting and homey”, this is the perfect Nordic infusion cuisine from the true heart of Iceland.
OX - Inside the hip and busy Sumac Grill and Bar behind a hidden door in the back, is a restaurant that has been years in the making; OX. OX is a kitchen transformed from Chef Thráinn Freyr Vigfússon’s grandfather’s home with the cabinets hanging on the wall and the true spirit of Iceland in the room. At OX, you will sit with 10 other people and enjoy true magic happen in front of you.
The ingredients are fresh from the land and sea and even from deep in the earth. The bread course is Hverabraud, which is a geothermal rye bread, baked in the earth. Course after course, the creations that chef put in front of us had textures and flavors that not just pleased the palate, but also made you think. Through the twelve courses we had reindeer, langoustine, scallop, cod, lamb, skyr ,and so much more. OX is a must each time you visit Iceland!
Lava - When you think the Blue Lagoon, you think tourist destination with a restaurant. You do not think an amazing dining experience. But that is just what you get. The Lava Restaurant is built right into an 800 year old lava cliff overlooking the Blue Lagoon, one of the Wonders of the World. The Lava Restaurant is gourmet, serving only the finest ingredients and dishes of Iceland.
I enjoyed the beer-cooked blue mussels from Reykjanes, and I drank the broth when I was finished. For the second course, I enjoyed the fish of the day, right off the boat from the neighboring town on Grindavík. And dessert, well I had to enjoy the local greenhouse grown strawberries with mint, coconut and almonds. What a perfect meal before spending an afternoon in the Blue Lagoon!
Mimir - A brand new restaurant in the Raddison Blu Saga in Reykjavik, Mimir is centered around one idea and that is preparing the best local ingredients to please their guests. The menu changes with the seasons to keep everything with local producers. The plates are meant to share and can be ordered small or large. I suggest getting small plates and getting a lot of them. Some of the dishes you should not miss include the white cabbage, the langoustine with beetroot apple and speck, and the arctic char. But do not leave without having dessert. You have to order your own order of the waffle with ice cream, salty caramel & bilberry.
Two other restaurants not to miss
Hja holla - You have two options to enjoy Hja holla and I ate at both. The original is in the town of Grindavík, very close to the Blue Lagoon. The other is in the airport when you are leaving Iceland. The food features local, delicious, healthy Icelandic dishes and some great sweets and cakes, too. We suggest doing take-out to have on your plane ride home.
Krauma – Located in a natural geothermal bath and spa, Krauma just happens to be a fabulous restaurant. And Deildartunguhver, Europe’s most powerful hot spring, is a stunning setting. At Krauma, there are many options, but the fish plate and the goat plate should not be missed.
Top Tips When Visiting
Whether you are experiencing Iceland on a stop over, have a few days, or touring the entire country over a week or more, the best tip is that you need to eat local. Here are the top tips on getting there, where to stay, and what not to miss.
Getting there
Getting to Iceland is pretty easy from most major cities and both WOW and Iceland Air are expanding their service. From most east coast cities, Iceland is a quick 5-6 hour flight with ticket prices not to be missed. If you are using Wow or Iceland Air to continue on, you should plan at least one night for your stop over.
Where to stay
If you are only staying for a stop over or for a few nights, staying in Reykjavik is the best choice. You then have the ability to fly to other parts of Iceland easily and also use the many tours that depart from Reykjavik. Staying in Reykjavik also provides you easy access to many local delicious restaurants right downtown.
The Raddison Blu Saga, located a short walk to downtown, is a great option both for price and the culinary choices right in the hotel. There’s the award-winning Grill and the newly opened Mimir listed above. Breakfast is included and you can taste many of Iceland’s finest and most popular dishes.
Do not miss
Any three of these “not to miss” spots are perfect for a stop over, but if you have time, be sure to visit all of them.
Blue Lagoon - One of Iceland’s best mistakes is one of Iceland’s best spots. The Blue Lagoon is literally a byproduct of the geothermal water plant being built. The rich nutrients and minerals in the water provide your body with both a real treat and many say healing properties.
Golden Circle - If you want to see it all in one day, take the Golden Circle and Frioheimar tour. This will allow you to see so many sites, including the spot where the American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull Iceland apart, the Geysir that shoots every 4-8 minutes, the powerful Gullfoss waterfall, and the Frioheimar greenhouse.
Reykjavik - What some consider the heart of Iceland, this major city is where you can find all of what you need to explore. The international airport is also located in Reykjavik, making it a perfect starting point for your culinary adventure.
There is no better word than respect to describe the food of Iceland. There is the utmost respect for all aspects of food and food production in this country, which explains why the culinary experience of Iceland is truly wonderful. Just be sure to buy some ingredients to take home and know you can always find some Icelandic Provisions Skyr at your local market.
Source: https://www.thedailymeal.com/travel/culinary-adventure-around-iceland
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Natural Attraction
There is such a saying that if the world has an end, it must be Iceland; if there is a fairyland, it must be in Iceland. Iceland is famous for its natural scenery. The Icelandic landscape is characterized by a huge number of volcanoes, steaming lava fields, waterfalls, black sand beaches and geysers, reminiscent of an almost alien landscape. In addition, Iceland is home to some of the largest glaciers in Europe, as well as some of the world's most active volcanoes.
Some famous ones include:
Jökulsárlón (glacier river lagoon): a large glacial lake in southeast Iceland, on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park. Situated at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, it developed into a lake after the glacier started receding from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. The lake has grown since then at varying rates because of melting of the glaciers. It is now 1.5 km (0.93 mi) away from the ocean's edge and covers an area of about 18 km2 (6.9 sq mi). In 2009 it was reported to be the deepest lake in Iceland, at over 248 m (814 ft), as glacial retreat extended its boundaries. The size of the lake has increased fourfold since the 1970s. It is considered as one of the natural wonders of Iceland.
The Crystal Ice Cave: very likely the most famous Ice Cave in Iceland, known for its incredibly turquoise blue colors. It is located in Breiðamerkurjökull an outlet glacier from Vatnajökull, the biggest ice cap in Europe and the same glacier as feeds the famous Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.
Blue Lagoon: a geothermal hot spring in southwestern Iceland. The spa is located in a lava field near Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, in a location favourable for geothermal power, and is supplied by water used in the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station. It is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland.
Mývatn: a volcanic lake in northern iceland. It has a high amount of biological activity. By the lake and the surrounding wetlands there is a variety of waterbirds, especially ducks. The lake was created by a large basaltic lava eruption 2300 years ago, and the surrounding landscape is dominated by volcanic landforms, including lava pillars and rootless vents (pseudocraters). The effluent river Laxá is known for its rich fishing for brown trout and Atlantic salmon.
Eyjafjallajökull (Icelandic mountain glacier): one of the smaller ice caps of Iceland, north of Skógar and west of Mýrdalsjökull. The ice cap covers the caldera of a volcano with a summit elevation of 1,651 metres (5,417 ft). The volcano has erupted relatively frequently since the last glacial period, most recently in 2010.
etc.
They are so spectacular!!!
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Rules: Copy this post into a new text post, remove my answers and put in yours, and when you’re done tag 10 people plus the person who tagged you, and most importantly, HAVE FUN
I was tagged by @weirdbirb
Answers under the cut
A- Age: 21 (turning 22 in June) B- Biggest fear: Not excisting as me anymore, something bad to haen to my siblings and close friends and me not being there for them, being alone my whole life. C- Current time: 7:33 pm D- Drink you last had: AriZona’s Mucho Mango drink. E- Everyday starts with: Lying there for a bit in my bed, wanting to sleep more, but then go to take my medicine. F- Favourite song: Tbh, too many to count. G- Ghosts, are they real: Of course. It would be weird for there not to be any, Considering how many beings die, not all of them can be reborn right away. H- Hometown: Grindavík (wanna move away soon, plz) I- In love with: No one, tbh. Never been in love :Þ J- Jealous of: Not really sure.....don’t think I’m jealous of anyone or anything. K- Killed someone: just my character a bunch of times in Terraria ‘cuz I’m a goof. L- Last time you cried: I think....it was this week. M- Middle name: Úrsúla N- Number of siblings: Got five related by blood and one not related by blood (talking about you, Hrafn, ‘cuz you my fam). O- One wish: Tbh, the same as Hrafn, financial stability. P- Person you last called/texted: @weirdbirb Q- Questions you’re always asked: If me and my sister (that’s older than me by 2 years) are twins :I R- Reasons to smile: Uuuuhhh....cute animals and bugs? I dunno, tbh :Þ S- Song last sang: Like I can remember that. Like, my memory is literal shit. T- Time you woke up: Hehehehehe it was around 3:30 pm “>u> (tho I’ve woken up later than that) U- Underwear colour: Hot pink (lol, the same as Hrafn’s) V- Vacation destination: Hhhhhhh so many places :I W- Worst habit: Cursing too much and making weird sounds just.....whenever. X- X-rays you’ve had: Don’t think I’ve had one? Or maybe I’ve had one when I was teeny tiny but I don’t remember. Y- Your favourite food: Uuuuhhh....Pizza, french fries (only the skinny ones and if they’re crispy), sweet potatoes, carrots, blueberries and more. Z- Zodiac sign: I am a Gemini.
I shall tag @whatthehorsedoicallthisblog @pkmntrainerkris-1 @huldukona @hommalingur @mansym @pocketarmor @wiredraw @meeeepcat @ssardonyx @joecato
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Culinary adventure around Iceland
There are many reasons to explain Iceland’s popularity today. The Blue Lagoon, the Fjords, the waterfalls, the glaciers, the horses, the puffins, and the whales come to mind. Then there is Thor and the food. Oh, the food. What is produced in Iceland is some of the purest and most full of flavor and respect. There is a love for tradition in Iceland and what the land has given the people. The traditions that came during the time of the Vikings have remained over time.
On this magical island, in the middle of the Atlantic far up north, there is truly something special that happens to the food. To truly comprehend the role food plays in Iceland, you must understand how the land, sea, people, and traditions come together to influence the culture around food. The residents of Iceland have a deep respect for all of these influences and the abundance of resources it has been bestowed with.
The Land
Iceland is a country made up of rich volcanic soil. Trees do not grow high. In fact the joke is, “If you get lost in a forest in Iceland, stand up”. There are multiple reasons to explain this fact. The growing seasons are short, yet fruitful. There are very rocky cliffs and mountains that are not useable for growing, but provide other resources like rich mosses and greens. They provide sustenance for the Icelandic free-range lamb to feed on once they are set out in spring.
The land is also affected by the light and often, harsh weather. There are 24 hours of light during the growing season, causing many plants to become confused if not native to the land. And while produce is not abundant, root vegetable, berries and nutrient-rich greens are. Animals, plants and people have had to adapt to respect the growing conditions they are provided. Finally, the land is alive with geothermal hot spots, providing for both green house growing and hot pots to cook in. Today, people are still cooking meals and breads in the earth.
The Sea
The sea around Iceland is key to both the sustenance of the people and its commerce. The purity of the sea provides a fertile growing ground for fish, sea kelps, and aquaculture in the form of muscles, and more recently oysters. Farmers are now also using the sea to farm fish on the land, using seawater as well as the nearby geothermal heating.
Iceland has some of the best regulations on fishing and you will not find the greed present in other countries. There is a kindness and respect for what the sea provides. Fishermen understand that without carefully monitoring and regulating fishing, they could destroy both their diets and livelihoods.
The People
The culinary wonders of Iceland would be nothing if not for the people. First, you need to understand their kind nature. The people are welcoming, inclusive and have a true respect for both their history and the land. This translates to a profound respect and proudness of their food. When an Icelandic speaks of a red currant or an arctic char their face lights up. Many farmers and fishermen today still live on the farms and fish with two and three generations of their families.
When people speak of the food of Iceland, it is in terms of what they have, not of what they do not have. They speak about the success of others with pride and have the same reverence for the home chefs as the chefs at leading restaurants. The people are not just kind to others, but to the land and the many benefits and nutrition it provides them.
The Traditions
Over generations in most countries, traditions are pushed aside for what is easier and what is in style. This does not hold true in Iceland. Here, tradition is deeply rooted in everything that encompasses food. The reason is simple; the land, sea and weather drive the way in which food is both produced and consumed. Although maybe there is something to the tradition of the elves… It is no gimmick that today bread is still baked in the land; it is both delicious and possible. Why heat an oven when you can use the land? Electricity is very expensive and solar is tough during the winter months, so using the earth is just smart.
Sheep with their newborns are not set out to the mountains to feed for the summer because it is convenient. It is because this is where the animals can find the food that best suits them. Then, the farmers all gather at the end of the season and work together to bring the animals home. Tradition drives the way food is raised, farmer, caught, prepared and served.
The Innovation
Iceland is not just driven by tradition. In order to both meet the needs of the residents and demands of the exports, there have been some wonderful innovations over the last few years. The two main innovations have been greenhouse farming and aquaculture.
Greenhouses have been around for a while, but are not seeded in deep traditions. Over the years, Icelandic farmers have been determined to provide for themselves and others as best they could. They knew that with the natural geothermal resources, they could grow produce in greenhouses. Today greens, strawberries, vegetables, herbs and more are grown for year-round use.
The second way in which the land, the water, and the geothermal resources are being used is with growing fish. Muscles and oysters are being farmed. In fact, oysters were one of the original farmed products in the world. The fish farms are producing some of the most delicious fish being shipped all over the world. Not only are they using the geothermal resources and the ocean waters, but also gravity in building the farms, so that very little non-natural resources are needed.
The Food
If we look back at traditions and natural resources, it is evident that there are key foods that drive the culinary pedestal for Iceland; cod, char, salmon, lamb, berries and rye. Other foods of import to the diet include birch, seaweed, salt, and herbs. No matter what meal you sit for, you can be assured that bread, butter, skyr, lamb and fish will play a role. Also influenced by the Nordic countries, you will find open-faced sandwiches and flat breads.
Restaurants to Experience
Iceland is full of restaurants that specialize in the native food. In fact, trying to find a restaurant that does not serve local food can be a challenge. It is hard to go wrong when picking a restaurant and equally hard trying to make a decision about which cafe to stop in for a quick bite. They are all so wonderful.
Here are a few restaurants that should be on your where to eat list!
The Fish Company - Located in the old part of downtown Reykjavik, the Fish Company is the local favorite. The menu is covered with local seafood, meat, produce, and more. Start with the Reindeer Carpaccio and then enjoy the “Around Iceland” tasting menu for dinner. The meal features the local cod, gravlax, lamb, honey, and so much more. The meal is also perfect for a Einstok beer pairing. While the food is the highlight at he Fish Company, the restaurant is beautiful. The cozy setting is filled with intriguing artwork, candles, and soft cozy nooks. Grounded in being both “exciting and homey”, this is the perfect Nordic infusion cuisine from the true heart of Iceland.
OX - Inside the hip and busy Sumac Grill and Bar behind a hidden door in the back, is a restaurant that has been years in the making; OX. OX is a kitchen transformed from Chef Thráinn Freyr Vigfússon’s grandfather’s home with the cabinets hanging on the wall and the true spirit of Iceland in the room. At OX, you will sit with 10 other people and enjoy true magic happen in front of you.
The ingredients are fresh from the land and sea and even from deep in the earth. The bread course is Hverabraud, which is a geothermal rye bread, baked in the earth. Course after course, the creations that chef put in front of us had textures and flavors that not just pleased the palate, but also made you think. Through the twelve courses we had reindeer, langoustine, scallop, cod, lamb, skyr ,and so much more. OX is a must each time you visit Iceland!
Lava - When you think the Blue Lagoon, you think tourist destination with a restaurant. You do not think an amazing dining experience. But that is just what you get. The Lava Restaurant is built right into an 800 year old lava cliff overlooking the Blue Lagoon, one of the Wonders of the World. The Lava Restaurant is gourmet, serving only the finest ingredients and dishes of Iceland.
I enjoyed the beer-cooked blue mussels from Reykjanes, and I drank the broth when I was finished. For the second course, I enjoyed the fish of the day, right off the boat from the neighboring town on Grindavík. And dessert, well I had to enjoy the local greenhouse grown strawberries with mint, coconut and almonds. What a perfect meal before spending an afternoon in the Blue Lagoon!
Mimir - A brand new restaurant in the Raddison Blu Saga in Reykjavik, Mimir is centered around one idea and that is preparing the best local ingredients to please their guests. The menu changes with the seasons to keep everything with local producers. The plates are meant to share and can be ordered small or large. I suggest getting small plates and getting a lot of them. Some of the dishes you should not miss include the white cabbage, the langoustine with beetroot apple and speck, and the arctic char. But do not leave without having dessert. You have to order your own order of the waffle with ice cream, salty caramel & bilberry.
Two other restaurants not to miss
Hja holla - You have two options to enjoy Hja holla and I ate at both. The original is in the town of Grindavík, very close to the Blue Lagoon. The other is in the airport when you are leaving Iceland. The food features local, delicious, healthy Icelandic dishes and some great sweets and cakes, too. We suggest doing take-out to have on your plane ride home.
Krauma – Located in a natural geothermal bath and spa, Krauma just happens to be a fabulous restaurant. And Deildartunguhver, Europe’s most powerful hot spring, is a stunning setting. At Krauma, there are many options, but the fish plate and the goat plate should not be missed.
Top Tips When Visiting
Whether you are experiencing Iceland on a stop over, have a few days, or touring the entire country over a week or more, the best tip is that you need to eat local. Here are the top tips on getting there, where to stay, and what not to miss.
Getting there
Getting to Iceland is pretty easy from most major cities and both WOW and Iceland Air are expanding their service. From most east coast cities, Iceland is a quick 5-6 hour flight with ticket prices not to be missed. If you are using Wow or Iceland Air to continue on, you should plan at least one night for your stop over.
Where to stay
If you are only staying for a stop over or for a few nights, staying in Reykjavik is the best choice. You then have the ability to fly to other parts of Iceland easily and also use the many tours that depart from Reykjavik. Staying in Reykjavik also provides you easy access to many local delicious restaurants right downtown.
The Raddison Blu Saga, located a short walk to downtown, is a great option both for price and the culinary choices right in the hotel. There’s the award-winning Grill and the newly opened Mimir listed above. Breakfast is included and you can taste many of Iceland’s finest and most popular dishes.
Do not miss
Any three of these “not to miss” spots are perfect for a stop over, but if you have time, be sure to visit all of them.
Blue Lagoon - One of Iceland’s best mistakes is one of Iceland’s best spots. The Blue Lagoon is literally a byproduct of the geothermal water plant being built. The rich nutrients and minerals in the water provide your body with both a real treat and many say healing properties.
Golden Circle - If you want to see it all in one day, take the Golden Circle and Frioheimar tour. This will allow you to see so many sites, including the spot where the American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull Iceland apart, the Geysir that shoots every 4-8 minutes, the powerful Gullfoss waterfall, and the Frioheimar greenhouse.
Reykjavik - What some consider the heart of Iceland, this major city is where you can find all of what you need to explore. The international airport is also located in Reykjavik, making it a perfect starting point for your culinary adventure.
There is no better word than respect to describe the food of Iceland. There is the utmost respect for all aspects of food and food production in this country, which explains why the culinary experience of Iceland is truly wonderful. Just be sure to buy some ingredients to take home and know you can always find some Icelandic Provisions Skyr at your local market.
Source: https://www.thedailymeal.com/travel/culinary-adventure-around-iceland
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Iceland Travel Guide
Iceland Travel Guide
Date Visited: September 2017
Introduction
From Games of Thrones, Star Wars, Star Trek to Interstellar – whenever Hollywood director’s wish to shoot scenes in landscapes that are ‘otherworldly‘ they often turn to Iceland. The ‘Land of Fire & Ice‘ is a magical destination, full of incredible natural attractions (all of which are free to visit) set in landscapes which are totally surreal.
Iceland is an isolated volcanic island, located in the middle of the North Atlantic ocean at the top of the world (just below the Arctic circle) – an island of striking natural beauty with incredible geological marvels. If you have a yearning to travel somewhere completely different then Iceland is for you. From eerie, moss-covered lava fields, treeless landscapes, active volcanos, powerful waterfalls, erupting geysers, gigantic glaciers (including the largest in Europe), dramatic black-sand beaches and spectacular coastlines, Iceland offers up one astounding view after another.
View from the summit of Saxholl Crater.
The island sits atop the mid-Atlantic ridge – a submarine mountain range which (at 40,000 km in length) is the world’s longest mountain range. It is believed that Bermuda was once part of the ridge but has moved further west over millions of years to it’s current location. The only place where this ridge breaches the ocean surface is Iceland. The ridge, which runs diagonally across the island, marks the point where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet, which makes Iceland one of the most geologically active places on Earth. In geographical terms, Iceland is a young country, having been formed some 18 million years ago and, in many respects, is still being formed. The island also sits above a hot-spot, the Iceland Plume, which is believed to have caused the formation of the island itself.
Mock-up of the Iceland Plume (viewed from underneath Iceland) at the LAVA Centre.
Just as the landscapes are ‘otherworldly’, so too, prices in the Iceland can seem ‘out of this world‘. Iceland is not a travel bargain, with the country constantly being ranked as one of the most expensive in the world. Despite the high costs, thousands of tourists (including backpackers) are streaming in – many taking advantage of Icelandair’s free stopover offer (see the ‘Getting there‘ section below for more).
While a budget guest house can cost in excess of US$100 per night, a restaurant meal US$40, a glass of craft beer US$15 or a cappuccino U$7 – costs can be reduced. Camper vans (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below) equipped with beds are available for hire, while many guest houses offer kitchen facilities allowing guests to self-cater. Lonely Planet provides a useful travel cost guide for Iceland with a recommended daily allowance of US$180 for budget travel. All natural attractions are free of charge but where tickets are required, they are expensive. You can venture inside an extinct volcano which will cost you US$420 per ticket for the half day trip. You can go inside a glacier where the Classic tour will cost you US$190 for the 2-4 hour trip.
Iceland gull at Olafsvik.
Despite the high costs, there is something magical and enchanting about this cold, isolated, volcanic rock and everyone I met traveling there was firmly under its spell. If you ever have the chance to visit I recommend you do so.
One Degree of Separation…
Icelandic Flag
The world can seem like a small place at times, but in Iceland it really is a small place. According to the genealogy website islendingabok.is, everyone in Iceland is related, with the entire population of 334,000 being derived from the same family tree. The website (whose name translates as ‘Book of Icelanders‘), claims to be the only genealogy database in the world that covers a whole nation, with more than 95 percent of all Icelanders born since 1703 registered into the database.
The creation of the website spawned the development of a unique app – islendingaApp – which allows Icelanders to learn about their family tree. More importantly, the app features a “bump” feature which allows two smartphones to be bumped together to check how closely related two individuals are. If they are too closely related, an “incest alarm” discreetly warns both users – thereby providing a degree of comfort for Icelandic daters that they won’t run into their date at a future family reunion.
Location
Located at the top of the world, Iceland can be found at the confluence of the North Atlantic and Arctic Osceans, east of Greenland, west of Norway and 450 km north-west of the Faroe Islands.
History
Map of Iceland
Due to it’s remote location, Iceland was not settled until the 9th century when Viking explorers and their slaves arrived from Norway and the United Kingdom. Once discovered, Norwegian settlers (who were fleeing conflict at home) flocked to the island. In 930, these settlers established a form of governance, the Althing, which became the Icelandic parliament and is today the world’s oldest continuous serving parliament.
Viking ship rooftop decoration in Reykjavik.
The island managed to remain independent until the 13th century, when (due to internal conflicts weakening the country) it was subjugated to Norway. In the 16th century, the island became a Danish territory and remained so until the end of WWI. Following the end of the war, Iceland became a sovereign nation but remained attached to Denmark by sharing the Danish monarchy. During WWII, and following the fall of Denmark to the Nazi’s, allied forces – led by British and later American forces – peacefully occupied the island to prevent a Nazi invasion. Following the end of WWII, Iceland severed all ties with Denmark and declared full independence.
Stamps of Iceland
Since gaining independence, this remote, sparsely populated island has often punched above it’s weight, being a founding member of the United Nations and NATO. A more comprehensive history of Iceland is available on Wikipedia.
Iceland Today
The distinctive colored glass facade of the Harpa concert hall in Reykjavik is inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland.
Until the 20th century, Iceland was among the poorest countries in Europe, but – thanks to strong economic growth – the country today is one of the most developed in the world and one of the greenest – deriving all power from renewable sources.
Prior to the 2007/ 2008 Global Financial Crisis, Iceland was ranked first in the world in the UN Human Development Index. During the financial crisis, the country made news headlines for all the wrong reasons, with its three largest banks collapsing under the weight of a debt burden which was estimated to be six times the nation’s gross domestic product. Despite entering a severe economic depression, the country slowly recovered thanks to the introduction of strict capital controls by the government and bailouts from the IMF and neighbouring Nordic countries.
Icelandic Krona
Iceland is not a member of the EU but is part of the Schengan Area (a single European country for international travel purposes). The official currency is the Icelandic Krona.
Sights
The land of fire and ice provides one stunning view after another.
Reykjavik
Lava fields outside of Reykjavik.
Located in the southwest of the island with a population of 216,000 – Reykjavík and the capital region are home to two-thirds of the entire population, with the city serving as a commercial, administrative, transportation and cultural hub. Fronted by the chilly, choppy waters of the North Atlantic and surrounded by towering, treeless mountains and barren lava fields, the city has a remote frontier feel to it.
Traditional architecture in downtown Reykjavik.
The downtown streets are lined with quirky, brightly coloured corrugated aluminium buildings, with the city having an unhurried, relaxed, sleepy atmosphere. There is no shortage of cafés, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, museums and everything else you would expect to find in a capital city. Shopping is not for the faint hearted with most Made in Iceland products priced in the stratosphere (e.g. a pair of woolen socks for US$39).
‘Made in Iceland’ socks on sale for US$39.
Reykjavik Sights
Interior of the Harpa Concert hall, Reykjavik.
Located on the waterfront, it’s hard to miss the glass edifice of the Harpa concert hall. The award-winning architectural design features a distinctive colored-glass facade said to be inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland. The interior walls and ceiling are made of glass panels which make for interesting photography.
Neon’s in Reykjavik.
Located on a hill at the other end of town, Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church which is one of the city’s best-known landmarks. Designed in 1937, the church is said to resemble the towering Icelandic landscape with it’s vertical mountains and glaciers. The tower is open for visits which provides the best view of the city.
The towering Hallgrímskirkja.
Interior of Hallgrímskirkja
Near Reykjavik
The milky-coloured water of Blue Lagoon.
Set in the middle of a barren lava field, Iceland’s #1 tourist attraction is the ever popular Blue Lagoon. The lagoon is located in Grindavík, 45 minutes south of Reykjavik and 20 minutes from Keflavik airport. It’s best to visit the lagoon on your way to the airport – there’s no better way to relax before a flight than by spending a few hours in a giant warm, mineral bath.
The lagoon water is geothermal seawater which originates at a depth of 2,000m beneath the earth, traveling up to the surface through porous lava where it is used to run turbines that generate electricity at a neighbouring power station (all power in Iceland is derived from renewable sources). The run-off water from the power station is then fed into the lagoon for the tourist hoards to enjoy.
Blue Lagoon
More milky-coloured than blue, the water gets its colour from silicate minerals which, along with other minerals and algae, make the water ideal for both recreational and medicinal purposes. With the water temperature hovering between a comfortable 37 and 39°C, the lagoon feels like one big bath and is especially nice on a cold Icelandic day.
Blue Lagoon
Due to its immense popularity, it is essential that you pre-book your ticket well in advance, which you can do on the Blue Lagoon website . Ticket prices are not cheap, ranging from a Standard ticket (US$61 – excluding tax) to the Luxury package (US$520 for two – excluding tax). I chose the standard ticket which I would recommend, this includes a silica mud mask. You can reduce costs by bringing your own towel and drinking the tap water, which is actually glacier water. There’s a swim-up bar where you can refresh yourself with an ice cold beer, wine or cocktail.
Considering the effort required in getting there and the cost of the ticket you should allow half a day to make the most of your visit. I stayed for 4 hours which was an ideal amount of time. There are restaurants and luggage storage facilities for those heading to the airport.
Central Region
Most of the sites of the central region are accessible from the circuitous tourist route known as the Golden Circle. The circuit can be completed on a day trip from Reykjavik and is the most popular tourist route in Iceland with the remote road often congested with tour buses and hire cars. The main attractions are the Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, Gullfoss and Kerid Crater.
Thingvallavatn Lake, the largest lake in Iceland is part of Thingvellir National Park.
Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park
Thingvellir National Park, which is the first stop on the Golden Circle trip, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Game of Thrones film location and the place where the Althing (the world’s oldest parliament) was established more than 1,000 years ago. The mid-Atlantic Ridge cuts through the park, separating the North American and Eurasian plates, creating a rift valley (the plates are moving apart). The centre piece of the park is Iceland’s largest lake – Thingvallavatn.
Cute to look at but often a road hazard – Icelandic sheep roam freely in Þingvellir National Park and all over the island.
Öxarárfoss
This 20 m high waterfall is said to be man-made, having been formed centuries ago when a river was diverted to provide drinking water. The falls cascade down the wall of a rocky fault line and are accessible via a boardwalk. A hiking trail allows you to walk the length of the canyon created by the fault.
Öxarárfoss.
Geysir
Composite image of Strokkur Geysir erupting.
About an hour up the road from Thingvellir National Park is Geysir, home to two gushing geysers – Strokkur and Geysir. The main geyser – Geysir – rarely erupts while the smaller – Strokkur – erupts every 5-6 minutes, sometimes reaching 30 metres! The English word – geyser – originates from Geysir, which comes from the Icelandic verb geysa, “to gush”.
Hot sulfur spring at Geysir.
Gullfoss
Spectacular Gullfoss.
A 10 minute drive up the road from Geysir brings you to the spectacular Gullfoss waterfall, a massive, two-tiered waterfall where the Hvita river cascades down an 11 m drop then a 21 m drop emptying into a 2.5 km long crevasse before continuing its journey.
Always a rainbow at Gullfoss.
Photos of the falls are impressive but there’s nothing quite like standing on the viewing platform next to the pounding, crashing waters – its raw, powerful nature at its best.
Kerid Volcanic Crater
Kerid Volcanic crater
Kerid crater is a stunning site, a sapphire-blue lake nestled in the bottom of a volcanic crater, the slopes of which are covered in red volcanic rock. If you wish to get a good photo of the crater you should visit in the middle of the day. I visited late in the afternoon when most of the crater was in shadow.
Friendly Icelandic horses on the Golden Circle.
South Coast
In a country full of spectacular sights it’s hard to nominate a favourite drive but the south coast was a highlight. I thought I could cover most sights on a day trip from Reykjavik but oh how wrong I was – at the end of my 1st day I was half way along my planned route, and needed to make a return trip to complete the journey. There are plenty of guest houses along the way (see ‘Accommodation‘ below) so there’s no need to backtrack to Reykjavik.
LAVA Centre
Interactive display at the LAVA centre.
A good starting point for any drive along the south coast is the LAVA Centre in the town of Hvolsvöllur. This elegant, contemporary, intelligently designed museum uses interactive displays to showcase Iceland’s volcanic heritage.
Orange circles on a map of Iceland at the Lava Centre indicate earthquake activity in the last 24 hours.
It’s here where you learn how the sights along the coast were formed, and it’s here you gain an appreciation of just how volatile and fluid the countryside around is, with up-to-the minute seismic & eruption readings.
Seljalandsfoss
Seljalandsfoss.
Shortly after the LAVA centre the beautiful Seljalandsfoss comes into view just off the ring road – marking the start of the geological attractions along the coast. This beautiful 63 m high waterfall is one of the highlights of the south coast with a walking trail which allows you to walk under a ledge, placing you behind the waterfall.
Behind Seljalandsfoss.
Skógafoss
Skógafoss
Just 20 minutes from Seljalandsfoss, you’ll find the spectacular Skógafoss, a dramatic 60 m drop waterfall which cascades over a cliff which was formerly part of the coastline. There’s something special about Skógafoss – it comes from the sheer majesty and power of the falls and the fact that they are so accessible – you can get right up close which is an overwhelming experience.
View from the top of Skógafoss waterfall.
Eyjafjallajökull
Eyjafjallajökull.
Eyjafjallajökull (volcano) gained notoriety during its last eruption in April, 2010 when, although relatively small for volcanic eruptions, it caused enormous disruption to air travel across western and northern Europe over a period of six days. The volcano is covered by a 100 km2 ice cap which feeds many surrounding glaciers.
Mýrdalsjökull
Mýrdalsjökull.
Mýrdalsjökull is the country’s fourth largest glacier, covering nearly 600 km2. The ice cap covers the Katla volcano, an active volcano which erupts on average every 40-80 years, with the last eruption being in 1918. A company at the base of the glacier offers walks on the ice.
Sólheimasandur
Sólheimasandur plane wreck
On November 24, 1973 a United States Navy plane crashed onto the black-sand beach at remote Sólheimasandurin. The crash was caused due to a sudden weather change but the pilot was able to land the plane without any fatalities. The U.S. military salvaged the usable pieces and left the rest on the beach. To reach the plane you must walk for 4-km across an old glacier plain to the wreckage (you should allow 40 mins each way).
Reynisfjara
Reynisfjara (black-sand beach) with the towering Reynisdrangar.
Reynisfjara is a stunningly beautiful black-sand beach, famous for its basalt sea-stacks (Reynisdrangar).
View of Reynisdrangar from inside the basalt column cave.
The black sand isn’t the only lava creation on Reynisfjara – looking like a pipe organ in a cathedral, Gardar is an enormous natural pyramid made of basalt columns. Beneath the columns is a cave which you can enter.
The perfectly formed basalt columns form a rocky pyramid known as Gardar.
Dyrhólaey
Dyrhólaey – a 120 m high arch carved out of a promontory.
Just along the coast from the black sand beach and close to the town of Vik is the Dyrhólaey peninsula whose name translates as ‘the hill-island with the door-hole’, named after a 120 m high arch carved out of the promontory.
There are two viewing areas on the peninsula – a lower and upper. A rough gravel road leads up a steep hill to the upper viewing area where you’ll find a lighthouse which affords panoramic views along the coast.
View along the coast from Dyrhólaey lighthouse.
A sealed road leads to the lower viewing area where you have a spectacular view of Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” which stands like a sentinel on Reynisfjara beach. The rock gets its name from the eagles that nested there until 1850.
Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” on Reynisfjara beach.
Vik
Church at Vik
Located on the coast, in the shadow of Mýrdalsjökull glacier and dominated by it’s hilltop church, Vík í Mýrdal is the most southern town in Iceland. Vik is the largest service centre along the south coast so it’s a good place to refuel your car and yourself. If you’re in town for lunch or dinner I recommend the delicious lamb leg served by the restaurant at the Icewear shop. If you’re heading further east you should ensure you leave town with a full tank of fuel.
Skaftafell
Cars passing in front of Skaftafellsjökull provide a sense of scale.
Part of the Vatnajökull National Park, Skaftafell is a hikers paradise, with trails leading to incredible sights such as the Skaftafellsjökull – a relatively small spur draining the massive Vatnajökull ice field, which at 8,100 km² is Europe’s largest ice cap. Vatnajökull covers 8% of the total territory or Iceland with average ice thickness being 400m.
Skaftafellsjökull, a small spur of the much larger Vatnajökull.
A hiking trail leads from the visitor’s centre to a high mountainside ridge which affords a stunning panoramic view of Skaftafellsjökull.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
I made a day trip of the peninsula from Reykjavik but there is so much here it deserves a longer visit. If staying overnight you have options in Ólafsvík and Arnarstapi. The scenery is spectacular and the sights are breathtaking.
Scenery on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Budir
The black wooden Budarkirkja (church) at Budir
Budir is a tiny hamlet set amid the sprawling, barren Budahraun lava field which is known for it’s quaint black wooden church (Budarkirkja ), which stands alone on a small coastal hill
Raudfeldsgja
Entering the Raudfeldsgja ravine.
Located near to Arnarstapi, Raudfeldsgja (Rauðfeldsgjá) is a deep, high, narrow ravine in the cliffs south of the Snæfellsjökull glacier. The ravine gets its name from a family tragedy which is part of an Icelandic saga. From the nearby road, the massive natural crack doesn’t immediately seem to be accessible, however, as you approach an entrance is revealed. The walls of the ravine are a favoured nesting site for Northern Fulmar seabirds.
Northern Fulmar’s nest around the ravine.
Arnarstapia
View of the coast at Arnarstapi
Arnarstapi, or Stapi, is a quiet, quaint, remote fishing village located on the south side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. With a dramatic coastline of cliffs and inlets, Stapi is a popular stop for tourists driving around the peninsula, offering a couple of hotels and restaurants. If you’re in town at lunch time I recommend the fish ‘n’ chips from the roadside kiosk on the road into town.
Arnarstapi coastline.
A walking trail along the coast offers incredible panoramic views along the peninsula. A series of deep basalt-columned chasms add an element of risk with one of them offering the chance to walk across a spectacular natural stone bridge
A natural bridge over a basalt chasm at Arnarstapi.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
Djúpalónssandur beach is surrounded by lava formations.
Located on the eastern side of the peninsula, Djúpalónssandur beach is set amid a giant lava field.
Saxholl Crater
The perfectly shaped Saxholl Crater has a stairway leading to it’s summit.
A metal staircase spirals to the top of Saxholl – a 100 m high crater, from where you have stunning views over the surrounding lava field.
View from the top of Saxholl crater.
Ólafsvík
Iceland gull flying at Ólafsvík.
Ólafsvík is the main service centre for the peninsula and a large fishing port. With a good selection of hotels and restaurants, it makes a good base for exploring the peninsula. The town is often buffeted by fierce winds which makes it easy to photograph the large population of seabirds which congregate on the beaches.
Iceland gull.
Accommodation
Not cheap! International chains have few footholds in Iceland, however there are plenty of guest houses and hostels in Reykjavík and around the island. I stayed at the Norðurey (Nordurey) guest house in downtown Reykjavík, where a standard room cost me US$110 per night (all rooms use shared bathrooms). Housed inside an old (drab on the outside) apartment block, the modern, crisp interior has been tastefully renovated using lots of IKEA products. The property is kept spotlessly clean by the friendly staff who come onsite each day. Included is a beautiful, clean kitchen which allows guests to self-cater – saving lots of money in a country where a sandwich can cost US$20.
If I had my time again I would not base myself Reykjavík, instead I would use it as a start and end point for a trip around the island. While Reykjavík is interesting for half a day, it’s not nearly as interesting as the natural sights located further afield. Each day I ventured into the amazing countryside, passing lots of guest houses along the way and then each evening I had to drive back to the capital – crazy!
A good starting point for booking accommodation is the accommodation.is website. Many Icelandic guest houses cannot be found on regular online travel sites but more and more are appearing on Airbnb.com.
Eating Out
No mass food production here.
From Minke whale to smoked puffin – like the country itself, the cuisine of Iceland is an adventure. Restaurants in Reykjavík offer all sorts of unique delicacies including whale meat which can be eaten raw or cooked. The meat is red and is more related to beef (no fishy taste at all!), albeit a healthier, leaner version. Icelanders will tell you that Minke whale is not an endangered species, but for many visitors it’s still whale and that’s a no-go. A good place to try a sampling of everything Icelandic is at Tapas Barinn in downtown Reykjavík.
Chip shop in Reykjavik
My personal favourites were Icelandic lamb (all of which is free range and very organic) and ling – a local member of the cod family which is plentiful in the waters around Iceland. The best lamb I tried was served at the new Icewear restaurant in the south-coast town of Vik.
Succulent lamb leg served at the Icewear restaurant in Vik.
The best ling I tried was served at Fish & More in downtown Reykjavík (their wall-sized World map is very cool!)
activeWorld map at the Fish & more restaurant in Reykjavik.
Skyr
Different flavours of Skyr.
Worth a special mention is Skyr, which is a low-fat dairy product that resembles yogurt but isn’t. It has the consistency of a cream mousse but contains hardly any fat! It’s a product that’s unique to Iceland and something I was hooked on.
Visa Requirements
Some nationalities require visas for Iceland, which is a Schengen state. Check your visa requirements prior to arrival.
Getting There
Despite its remote geographical location, getting to Iceland is relatively easy for those travelling between Europe and North America, all thanks to the national carrier – Icelandair – who have turned their hub (Keflavík International Airport) into a trans-Atlantic travel hub. There’s nothing like an inducement to motivate traveler’s and Icelandair’s free stopover offer is a big carrot that has proven very popular with tourists with arrival number’s increasing from 500,000 in 2010 to 1,800,000 in 2016.
By Air
Most visitor’s to Iceland arrive at Keflavík International Airport (KEF), the largest airport and the hub for the nation’s two main carriers – Icelandair and WOW Air. Located 49 km (30 mi) SW of Reykjavík, the airport can be reached by bus or car.
The following airlines operate regular scheduled services to and from Keflavík:
Air Berlin – flights to Berlin–Tegel, Düsseldorf
Air Iceland Connect – flight to Akureyri
Atlantic Airways – flight to Vágar (Faroe Islands)
British Airways – flight to London–Heathrow
Delta Air Lines – flight to New York–JFK
easyJet – flights to Edinburgh, London–Gatwick, London–Luton, Manchester
Icelandair – flights to Amsterdam, Bergen, Berlin–Tegel, Birmingham, Brussels, Boston, Chicago–O’Hare, Cleveland, Copenhagen, Denver, Dallas/Fort Worth, Frankfurt, Glasgow, Helsinki, London–Gatwick, London–Heathrow, Manchester, Minneapolis/St. Paul, Munich, New York–JFK, Newark, Orlando, Oslo–Gardermoen, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Paris–Orly, Seattle/Tacoma, Stockholm–Arlanda, Tampa,Toronto–Pearson, Vancouver, Washington–Dulles
Lufthansa – flight to Frankfurt
Norwegian Air Shuttle – flights to Barcelona, Oslo–Gardermoen
Scandinavian Airlines – flights to Copenhagen, Oslo–Gardermoen
Wizz Air – flights to Budapest, Gdańsk, Katowice, Prague, Riga, Vilnius, Warsaw–Chopin, Wrocław
WOW Air – flights to Amsterdam, Baltimore, Berlin–Schönefeld, Boston, Brussels, Cincinnati Cleveland, Copenhagen, Detroit, Dublin, Edinburgh, Frankfurt, Gran Canaria, London–Gatwick, London–Stansted, Los Angeles, Miami, Montréal–Trudeau, Newark, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Pittsburgh, San Francisco, St. Louis, Stockholm–Arlanda, Tel Aviv–Ben Gurion, Toronto–Pearson, Warsaw–Chopin
Reykjavík Airport (REK) is the second largest airport and is more conveniently located – just 3 km from downtown Reykjavík. The airport serves domestic flights and is a hub for Air Iceland Connect (a subsidiary of Icelandair) which operates flights to Greenland and the Faroe Islands (through Atlantic Airways).
The following airlines operate regular scheduled services to and from Reykjavík:
Air Iceland Connect – flights to Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Ilulissat, Ísafjörður, Kulusuk, Nuuk (Greenland)
Atlantic Airways – flight to Vagar (Faroe Islands)
Eagle Air – flights to Bíldudalur, Gjögur, Húsavík, Höfn, Vestmannaeyjar
Mýflug – flight to Akureyri
Getting Around
Road on the Western Peninsula
Bus
Iceland Public Transport Map. Source: www.publictransport.is
Iceland has an extensive network of long-distance bus routes, all of which are detailed on the clickable, route map on the website www.publictransport.is
Bus Passports are sold on the icelandbybus.is website. A passport covering a journey around the entire ring-road currently costs 37,900 ISK. If you’re more than one person, it can be more economical to hire a car.
Taxi
Uber or Lyft have yet to make it to Iceland. Taxi’s can be found on ranks in downtown Reykjavík or can be booked in advance from one of the following companies:
Hreyfill (Tel:+354-588-5522)
BSR (Tel: +354-561-0000).
Train
There are no trains on Iceland.
Ferry
Seatours operate regular ferries to various islands.
Car
My rental car on the Ring road.
The best way to maximise your time on Iceland is to hire a car. I rented a car through Green Motion, who have an office near to Keflavík airport. Driving in a country like Iceland presents it’s own set of unique challenges, these are outlined here.
I did make some friends on Iceland, including these friendly Icelandic sheep. They surrounded my car so I couldn’t leave.
If you’re on a budget and don’t mind sleeping in your vehicle, there are plenty of companies which hire camper vans. A good place to start is happycampers.is who offer a range of vehicles, all of which are equipped with beds and rooftop solar panels.
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Iceland Travel Guide
Iceland Travel Guide
Date Visited: September 2017
Introduction
From Games of Thrones, Star Wars, Star Trek to Interstellar – whenever Hollywood director’s wish to shoot scenes in landscapes that are ‘otherworldly‘ they often turn to Iceland. The ‘Land of Fire & Ice‘ is a magical destination, full of incredible natural attractions (all of which are free to visit) set in landscapes which are totally surreal.
Iceland is an isolated volcanic island, located in the middle of the North Atlantic ocean at the top of the world (just below the Arctic circle) – an island of striking natural beauty with incredible geological marvels. If you have a yearning to travel somewhere completely different then Iceland is for you. From eerie, moss-covered lava fields, treeless landscapes, active volcanos, powerful waterfalls, erupting geysers, gigantic glaciers (including the largest in Europe), dramatic black-sand beaches and spectacular coastlines, Iceland offers up one astounding view after another.
View from the summit of Saxholl Crater.
The island sits atop the mid-Atlantic ridge – a submarine mountain range which (at 40,000 km in length) is the world’s longest mountain range. It is believed that Bermuda was once part of the ridge but has moved further west over millions of years to it’s current location. The only place where this ridge breaches the ocean surface is Iceland. The ridge, which runs diagonally across the island, marks the point where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet, which makes Iceland one of the most geologically active places on Earth. In geographical terms, Iceland is a young country, having been formed some 18 million years ago and, in many respects, is still being formed. The island also sits above a hot-spot, the Iceland Plume, which is believed to have caused the formation of the island itself.
Mock-up of the Iceland Plume (viewed from underneath Iceland) at the LAVA Centre.
Just as the landscapes are ‘otherworldly’, so too, prices in the Iceland can seem ‘out of this world‘. Iceland is not a travel bargain, with the country constantly being ranked as one of the most expensive in the world. Despite the high costs, thousands of tourists (including backpackers) are streaming in – many taking advantage of Icelandair’s free stopover offer (see the ‘Getting there‘ section below for more).
While a budget guest house can cost in excess of US$100 per night, a restaurant meal US$40, a glass of craft beer US$15 or a cappuccino U$7 – costs can be reduced. Camper vans (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below) equipped with beds are available for hire, while many guest houses offer kitchen facilities allowing guests to self-cater. Lonely Planet provides a useful travel cost guide for Iceland with a recommended daily allowance of US$180 for budget travel. All natural attractions are free of charge but where tickets are required, they are expensive. You can venture inside an extinct volcano which will cost you US$420 per ticket for the half day trip. You can go inside a glacier where the Classic tour will cost you US$190 for the 2-4 hour trip.
Iceland gull at Olafsvik.
Despite the high costs, there is something magical and enchanting about this cold, isolated, volcanic rock and everyone I met traveling there was firmly under its spell. If you ever have the chance to visit I recommend you do so.
One Degree of Separation…
Icelandic Flag
The world can seem like a small place at times, but in Iceland it really is a small place. According to the genealogy website islendingabok.is, everyone in Iceland is related, with the entire population of 334,000 being derived from the same family tree. The website (whose name translates as ‘Book of Icelanders‘), claims to be the only genealogy database in the world that covers a whole nation, with more than 95 percent of all Icelanders born since 1703 registered into the database.
The creation of the website spawned the development of a unique app – islendingaApp – which allows Icelanders to learn about their family tree. More importantly, the app features a “bump” feature which allows two smartphones to be bumped together to check how closely related two individuals are. If they are too closely related, an “incest alarm” discreetly warns both users – thereby providing a degree of comfort for Icelandic daters that they won’t run into their date at a future family reunion.
Location
Located at the top of the world, Iceland can be found at the confluence of the North Atlantic and Arctic Osceans, east of Greenland, west of Norway and 450 km north-west of the Faroe Islands.
History
Map of Iceland
Due to it’s remote location, Iceland was not settled until the 9th century when Viking explorers and their slaves arrived from Norway and the United Kingdom. Once discovered, Norwegian settlers (who were fleeing conflict at home) flocked to the island. In 930, these settlers established a form of governance, the Althing, which became the Icelandic parliament and is today the world’s oldest continuous serving parliament.
Viking ship rooftop decoration in Reykjavik.
The island managed to remain independent until the 13th century, when (due to internal conflicts weakening the country) it was subjugated to Norway. In the 16th century, the island became a Danish territory and remained so until the end of WWI. Following the end of the war, Iceland became a sovereign nation but remained attached to Denmark by sharing the Danish monarchy. During WWII, and following the fall of Denmark to the Nazi’s, allied forces – led by British and later American forces – peacefully occupied the island to prevent a Nazi invasion. Following the end of WWII, Iceland severed all ties with Denmark and declared full independence.
Stamps of Iceland
Since gaining independence, this remote, sparsely populated island has often punched above it’s weight, being a founding member of the United Nations and NATO. A more comprehensive history of Iceland is available on Wikipedia.
Iceland Today
The distinctive colored glass facade of the Harpa concert hall in Reykjavik is inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland.
Until the 20th century, Iceland was among the poorest countries in Europe, but – thanks to strong economic growth – the country today is one of the most developed in the world and one of the greenest – deriving all power from renewable sources.
Prior to the 2007/ 2008 Global Financial Crisis, Iceland was ranked first in the world in the UN Human Development Index. During the financial crisis, the country made news headlines for all the wrong reasons, with its three largest banks collapsing under the weight of a debt burden which was estimated to be six times the nation’s gross domestic product. Despite entering a severe economic depression, the country slowly recovered thanks to the introduction of strict capital controls by the government and bailouts from the IMF and neighbouring Nordic countries.
Icelandic Krona
Iceland is not a member of the EU but is part of the Schengan Area (a single European country for international travel purposes). The official currency is the Icelandic Krona.
Sights
The land of fire and ice provides one stunning view after another.
Reykjavik
Lava fields outside of Reykjavik.
Located in the southwest of the island with a population of 216,000 – Reykjavík and the capital region are home to two-thirds of the entire population, with the city serving as a commercial, administrative, transportation and cultural hub. Fronted by the chilly, choppy waters of the North Atlantic and surrounded by towering, treeless mountains and barren lava fields, the city has a remote frontier feel to it.
Traditional architecture in downtown Reykjavik.
The downtown streets are lined with quirky, brightly coloured corrugated aluminium buildings, with the city having an unhurried, relaxed, sleepy atmosphere. There is no shortage of cafés, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, museums and everything else you would expect to find in a capital city. Shopping is not for the faint hearted with most Made in Iceland products priced in the stratosphere (e.g. a pair of woolen socks for US$39).
‘Made in Iceland’ socks on sale for US$39.
Reykjavik Sights
Interior of the Harpa Concert hall, Reykjavik.
Located on the waterfront, it’s hard to miss the glass edifice of the Harpa concert hall. The award-winning architectural design features a distinctive colored-glass facade said to be inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland. The interior walls and ceiling are made of glass panels which make for interesting photography.
Neon’s in Reykjavik.
Located on a hill at the other end of town, Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church which is one of the city’s best-known landmarks. Designed in 1937, the church is said to resemble the towering Icelandic landscape with it’s vertical mountains and glaciers. The tower is open for visits which provides the best view of the city.
The towering Hallgrímskirkja.
Interior of Hallgrímskirkja
Near Reykjavik
The milky-coloured water of Blue Lagoon.
Set in the middle of a barren lava field, Iceland’s #1 tourist attraction is the ever popular Blue Lagoon. The lagoon is located in Grindavík, 45 minutes south of Reykjavik and 20 minutes from Keflavik airport. It’s best to visit the lagoon on your way to the airport – there’s no better way to relax before a flight than by spending a few hours in a giant warm, mineral bath.
The lagoon water is geothermal seawater which originates at a depth of 2,000m beneath the earth, traveling up to the surface through porous lava where it is used to run turbines that generate electricity at a neighbouring power station (all power in Iceland is derived from renewable sources). The run-off water from the power station is then fed into the lagoon for the tourist hoards to enjoy.
Blue Lagoon
More milky-coloured than blue, the water gets its colour from silicate minerals which, along with other minerals and algae, make the water ideal for both recreational and medicinal purposes. With the water temperature hovering between a comfortable 37 and 39°C, the lagoon feels like one big bath and is especially nice on a cold Icelandic day.
Blue Lagoon
Due to its immense popularity, it is essential that you pre-book your ticket well in advance, which you can do on the Blue Lagoon website . Ticket prices are not cheap, ranging from a Standard ticket (US$61 – excluding tax) to the Luxury package (US$520 for two – excluding tax). I chose the standard ticket which I would recommend, this includes a silica mud mask. You can reduce costs by bringing your own towel and drinking the tap water, which is actually glacier water. There’s a swim-up bar where you can refresh yourself with an ice cold beer, wine or cocktail.
Considering the effort required in getting there and the cost of the ticket you should allow half a day to make the most of your visit. I stayed for 4 hours which was an ideal amount of time. There are restaurants and luggage storage facilities for those heading to the airport.
Central Region
Most of the sites of the central region are accessible from the circuitous tourist route known as the Golden Circle. The circuit can be completed on a day trip from Reykjavik and is the most popular tourist route in Iceland with the remote road often congested with tour buses and hire cars. The main attractions are the Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, Gullfoss and Kerid Crater.
Thingvallavatn Lake, the largest lake in Iceland is part of Thingvellir National Park.
Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park
Thingvellir National Park, which is the first stop on the Golden Circle trip, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Game of Thrones film location and the place where the Althing (the world’s oldest parliament) was established more than 1,000 years ago. The mid-Atlantic Ridge cuts through the park, separating the North American and Eurasian plates, creating a rift valley (the plates are moving apart). The centre piece of the park is Iceland’s largest lake – Thingvallavatn.
Cute to look at but often a road hazard – Icelandic sheep roam freely in Þingvellir National Park and all over the island.
Öxarárfoss
This 20 m high waterfall is said to be man-made, having been formed centuries ago when a river was diverted to provide drinking water. The falls cascade down the wall of a rocky fault line and are accessible via a boardwalk. A hiking trail allows you to walk the length of the canyon created by the fault.
Öxarárfoss.
Geysir
Composite image of Strokkur Geysir erupting.
About an hour up the road from Thingvellir National Park is Geysir, home to two gushing geysers – Strokkur and Geysir. The main geyser – Geysir – rarely erupts while the smaller – Strokkur – erupts every 5-6 minutes, sometimes reaching 30 metres! The English word – geyser – originates from Geysir, which comes from the Icelandic verb geysa, “to gush”.
Hot sulfur spring at Geysir.
Gullfoss
Spectacular Gullfoss.
A 10 minute drive up the road from Geysir brings you to the spectacular Gullfoss waterfall, a massive, two-tiered waterfall where the Hvita river cascades down an 11 m drop then a 21 m drop emptying into a 2.5 km long crevasse before continuing its journey.
Always a rainbow at Gullfoss.
Photos of the falls are impressive but there’s nothing quite like standing on the viewing platform next to the pounding, crashing waters – its raw, powerful nature at its best.
Kerid Volcanic Crater
Kerid Volcanic crater
Kerid crater is a stunning site, a sapphire-blue lake nestled in the bottom of a volcanic crater, the slopes of which are covered in red volcanic rock. If you wish to get a good photo of the crater you should visit in the middle of the day. I visited late in the afternoon when most of the crater was in shadow.
Friendly Icelandic horses on the Golden Circle.
South Coast
In a country full of spectacular sights it’s hard to nominate a favourite drive but the south coast was a highlight. I thought I could cover most sights on a day trip from Reykjavik but oh how wrong I was – at the end of my 1st day I was half way along my planned route, and needed to make a return trip to complete the journey. There are plenty of guest houses along the way (see ‘Accommodation‘ below) so there’s no need to backtrack to Reykjavik.
LAVA Centre
Interactive display at the LAVA centre.
A good starting point for any drive along the south coast is the LAVA Centre in the town of Hvolsvöllur. This elegant, contemporary, intelligently designed museum uses interactive displays to showcase Iceland’s volcanic heritage.
Orange circles on a map of Iceland at the Lava Centre indicate earthquake activity in the last 24 hours.
It’s here where you learn how the sights along the coast were formed, and it’s here you gain an appreciation of just how volatile and fluid the countryside around is, with up-to-the minute seismic & eruption readings.
Seljalandsfoss
Seljalandsfoss.
Shortly after the LAVA centre the beautiful Seljalandsfoss comes into view just off the ring road – marking the start of the geological attractions along the coast. This beautiful 63 m high waterfall is one of the highlights of the south coast with a walking trail which allows you to walk under a ledge, placing you behind the waterfall.
Behind Seljalandsfoss.
Skógafoss
Skógafoss
Just 20 minutes from Seljalandsfoss, you’ll find the spectacular Skógafoss, a dramatic 60 m drop waterfall which cascades over a cliff which was formerly part of the coastline. There’s something special about Skógafoss – it comes from the sheer majesty and power of the falls and the fact that they are so accessible – you can get right up close which is an overwhelming experience.
View from the top of Skógafoss waterfall.
Eyjafjallajökull
Eyjafjallajökull.
Eyjafjallajökull (volcano) gained notoriety during its last eruption in April, 2010 when, although relatively small for volcanic eruptions, it caused enormous disruption to air travel across western and northern Europe over a period of six days. The volcano is covered by a 100 km2 ice cap which feeds many surrounding glaciers.
Mýrdalsjökull
Mýrdalsjökull.
Mýrdalsjökull is the country’s fourth largest glacier, covering nearly 600 km2. The ice cap covers the Katla volcano, an active volcano which erupts on average every 40-80 years, with the last eruption being in 1918. A company at the base of the glacier offers walks on the ice.
Sólheimasandur
Sólheimasandur plane wreck
On November 24, 1973 a United States Navy plane crashed onto the black-sand beach at remote Sólheimasandurin. The crash was caused due to a sudden weather change but the pilot was able to land the plane without any fatalities. The U.S. military salvaged the usable pieces and left the rest on the beach. To reach the plane you must walk for 4-km across an old glacier plain to the wreckage (you should allow 40 mins each way).
Reynisfjara
Reynisfjara (black-sand beach) with the towering Reynisdrangar.
Reynisfjara is a stunningly beautiful black-sand beach, famous for its basalt sea-stacks (Reynisdrangar).
View of Reynisdrangar from inside the basalt column cave.
The black sand isn’t the only lava creation on Reynisfjara – looking like a pipe organ in a cathedral, Gardar is an enormous natural pyramid made of basalt columns. Beneath the columns is a cave which you can enter.
The perfectly formed basalt columns form a rocky pyramid known as Gardar.
Dyrhólaey
Dyrhólaey – a 120 m high arch carved out of a promontory.
Just along the coast from the black sand beach and close to the town of Vik is the Dyrhólaey peninsula whose name translates as ‘the hill-island with the door-hole’, named after a 120 m high arch carved out of the promontory.
There are two viewing areas on the peninsula – a lower and upper. A rough gravel road leads up a steep hill to the upper viewing area where you’ll find a lighthouse which affords panoramic views along the coast.
View along the coast from Dyrhólaey lighthouse.
A sealed road leads to the lower viewing area where you have a spectacular view of Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” which stands like a sentinel on Reynisfjara beach. The rock gets its name from the eagles that nested there until 1850.
Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” on Reynisfjara beach.
Vik
Church at Vik
Located on the coast, in the shadow of Mýrdalsjökull glacier and dominated by it’s hilltop church, Vík í Mýrdal is the most southern town in Iceland. Vik is the largest service centre along the south coast so it’s a good place to refuel your car and yourself. If you’re in town for lunch or dinner I recommend the delicious lamb leg served by the restaurant at the Icewear shop. If you’re heading further east you should ensure you leave town with a full tank of fuel.
Skaftafell
Cars passing in front of Skaftafellsjökull provide a sense of scale.
Part of the Vatnajökull National Park, Skaftafell is a hikers paradise, with trails leading to incredible sights such as the Skaftafellsjökull – a relatively small spur draining the massive Vatnajökull ice field, which at 8,100 km² is Europe’s largest ice cap. Vatnajökull covers 8% of the total territory or Iceland with average ice thickness being 400m.
Skaftafellsjökull, a small spur of the much larger Vatnajökull.
A hiking trail leads from the visitor’s centre to a high mountainside ridge which affords a stunning panoramic view of Skaftafellsjökull.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
I made a day trip of the peninsula from Reykjavik but there is so much here it deserves a longer visit. If staying overnight you have options in Ólafsvík and Arnarstapi. The scenery is spectacular and the sights are breathtaking.
Scenery on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Budir
The black wooden Budarkirkja (church) at Budir
Budir is a tiny hamlet set amid the sprawling, barren Budahraun lava field which is known for it’s quaint black wooden church (Budarkirkja ), which stands alone on a small coastal hill
Raudfeldsgja
Entering the Raudfeldsgja ravine.
Located near to Arnarstapi, Raudfeldsgja (Rauðfeldsgjá) is a deep, high, narrow ravine in the cliffs south of the Snæfellsjökull glacier. The ravine gets its name from a family tragedy which is part of an Icelandic saga. From the nearby road, the massive natural crack doesn’t immediately seem to be accessible, however, as you approach an entrance is revealed. The walls of the ravine are a favoured nesting site for Northern Fulmar seabirds.
Northern Fulmar’s nest around the ravine.
Arnarstapia
View of the coast at Arnarstapi
Arnarstapi, or Stapi, is a quiet, quaint, remote fishing village located on the south side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. With a dramatic coastline of cliffs and inlets, Stapi is a popular stop for tourists driving around the peninsula, offering a couple of hotels and restaurants. If you’re in town at lunch time I recommend the fish ‘n’ chips from the roadside kiosk on the road into town.
Arnarstapi coastline.
A walking trail along the coast offers incredible panoramic views along the peninsula. A series of deep basalt-columned chasms add an element of risk with one of them offering the chance to walk across a spectacular natural stone bridge
A natural bridge over a basalt chasm at Arnarstapi.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
Djúpalónssandur beach is surrounded by lava formations.
Located on the eastern side of the peninsula, Djúpalónssandur beach is set amid a giant lava field.
Saxholl Crater
The perfectly shaped Saxholl Crater has a stairway leading to it’s summit.
A metal staircase spirals to the top of Saxholl – a 100 m high crater, from where you have stunning views over the surrounding lava field.
View from the top of Saxholl crater.
Ólafsvík
Iceland gull flying at Ólafsvík.
Ólafsvík is the main service centre for the peninsula and a large fishing port. With a good selection of hotels and restaurants, it makes a good base for exploring the peninsula. The town is often buffeted by fierce winds which makes it easy to photograph the large population of seabirds which congregate on the beaches.
Iceland gull.
Accommodation
Not cheap! International chains have few footholds in Iceland, however there are plenty of guest houses and hostels in Reykjavík and around the island. I stayed at the Norðurey (Nordurey) guest house in downtown Reykjavík, where a standard room cost me US$110 per night (all rooms use shared bathrooms). Housed inside an old (drab on the outside) apartment block, the modern, crisp interior has been tastefully renovated using lots of IKEA products. The property is kept spotlessly clean by the friendly staff who come onsite each day. Included is a beautiful, clean kitchen which allows guests to self-cater – saving lots of money in a country where a sandwich can cost US$20.
If I had my time again I would not base myself Reykjavík, instead I would use it as a start and end point for a trip around the island. While Reykjavík is interesting for half a day, it’s not nearly as interesting as the natural sights located further afield. Each day I ventured into the amazing countryside, passing lots of guest houses along the way and then each evening I had to drive back to the capital – crazy!
A good starting point for booking accommodation is the accommodation.is website. Many Icelandic guest houses cannot be found on regular online travel sites but more and more are appearing on Airbnb.com.
Eating Out
No mass food production here.
From Minke whale to smoked puffin – like the country itself, the cuisine of Iceland is an adventure. Restaurants in Reykjavík offer all sorts of unique delicacies including whale meat which can be eaten raw or cooked. The meat is red and is more related to beef (no fishy taste at all!), albeit a healthier, leaner version. Icelanders will tell you that Minke whale is not an endangered species, but for many visitors it’s still whale and that’s a no-go. A good place to try a sampling of everything Icelandic is at Tapas Barinn in downtown Reykjavík.
Chip shop in Reykjavik
My personal favourites were Icelandic lamb (all of which is free range and very organic) and ling – a local member of the cod family which is plentiful in the waters around Iceland. The best lamb I tried was served at the new Icewear restaurant in the south-coast town of Vik.
Succulent lamb leg served at the Icewear restaurant in Vik.
The best ling I tried was served at Fish & More in downtown Reykjavík (their wall-sized World map is very cool!)
activeWorld map at the Fish & more restaurant in Reykjavik.
Skyr
Different flavours of Skyr.
Worth a special mention is Skyr, which is a low-fat dairy product that resembles yogurt but isn’t. It has the consistency of a cream mousse but contains hardly any fat! It’s a product that’s unique to Iceland and something I was hooked on.
Visa Requirements
Some nationalities require visas for Iceland, which is a Schengen state. Check your visa requirements prior to arrival.
Getting There
Despite its remote geographical location, getting to Iceland is relatively easy for those travelling between Europe and North America, all thanks to the national carrier – Icelandair – who have turned their hub (Keflavík International Airport) into a trans-Atlantic travel hub. There’s nothing like an inducement to motivate traveler’s and Icelandair’s free stopover offer is a big carrot that has proven very popular with tourists with arrival number’s increasing from 500,000 in 2010 to 1,800,000 in 2016.
By Air
Most visitor’s to Iceland arrive at Keflavík International Airport (KEF), the largest airport and the hub for the nation’s two main carriers – Icelandair and WOW Air. Located 49 km (30 mi) SW of Reykjavík, the airport can be reached by bus or car.
The following airlines operate regular scheduled services to and from Keflavík:
Air Berlin – flights to Berlin–Tegel, Düsseldorf
Air Iceland Connect – flight to Akureyri
Atlantic Airways – flight to Vágar (Faroe Islands)
British Airways – flight to London–Heathrow
Delta Air Lines – flight to New York–JFK
easyJet – flights to Edinburgh, London–Gatwick, London–Luton, Manchester
Icelandair – flights to Amsterdam, Bergen, Berlin–Tegel, Birmingham, Brussels, Boston, Chicago–O’Hare, Cleveland, Copenhagen, Denver, Dallas/Fort Worth, Frankfurt, Glasgow, Helsinki, London–Gatwick, London–Heathrow, Manchester, Minneapolis/St. Paul, Munich, New York–JFK, Newark, Orlando, Oslo–Gardermoen, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Paris–Orly, Seattle/Tacoma, Stockholm–Arlanda, Tampa,Toronto–Pearson, Vancouver, Washington–Dulles
Lufthansa – flight to Frankfurt
Norwegian Air Shuttle – flights to Barcelona, Oslo–Gardermoen
Scandinavian Airlines – flights to Copenhagen, Oslo–Gardermoen
Wizz Air – flights to Budapest, Gdańsk, Katowice, Prague, Riga, Vilnius, Warsaw–Chopin, Wrocław
WOW Air – flights to Amsterdam, Baltimore, Berlin–Schönefeld, Boston, Brussels, Cincinnati Cleveland, Copenhagen, Detroit, Dublin, Edinburgh, Frankfurt, Gran Canaria, London–Gatwick, London–Stansted, Los Angeles, Miami, Montréal–Trudeau, Newark, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Pittsburgh, San Francisco, St. Louis, Stockholm–Arlanda, Tel Aviv–Ben Gurion, Toronto–Pearson, Warsaw–Chopin
Reykjavík Airport (REK) is the second largest airport and is more conveniently located – just 3 km from downtown Reykjavík. The airport serves domestic flights and is a hub for Air Iceland Connect (a subsidiary of Icelandair) which operates flights to Greenland and the Faroe Islands (through Atlantic Airways).
The following airlines operate regular scheduled services to and from Reykjavík:
Air Iceland Connect – flights to Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Ilulissat, Ísafjörður, Kulusuk, Nuuk (Greenland)
Atlantic Airways – flight to Vagar (Faroe Islands)
Eagle Air – flights to Bíldudalur, Gjögur, Húsavík, Höfn, Vestmannaeyjar
Mýflug – flight to Akureyri
Getting Around
Road on the Western Peninsula
Bus
Iceland Public Transport Map. Source: www.publictransport.is
Iceland has an extensive network of long-distance bus routes, all of which are detailed on the clickable, route map on the website www.publictransport.is
Bus Passports are sold on the icelandbybus.is website. A passport covering a journey around the entire ring-road currently costs 37,900 ISK. If you’re more than one person, it can be more economical to hire a car.
Taxi
Uber or Lyft have yet to make it to Iceland. Taxi’s can be found on ranks in downtown Reykjavík or can be booked in advance from one of the following companies:
Hreyfill (Tel:+354-588-5522)
BSR (Tel: +354-561-0000).
Train
There are no trains on Iceland.
Ferry
Seatours operate regular ferries to various islands.
Car
My rental car on the Ring road.
The best way to maximise your time on Iceland is to hire a car. I rented a car through Green Motion, who have an office near to Keflavík airport. Driving in a country like Iceland presents it’s own set of unique challenges, these are outlined here.
I did make some friends on Iceland, including these friendly Icelandic sheep. They surrounded my car so I couldn’t leave.
If you’re on a budget and don’t mind sleeping in your vehicle, there are plenty of companies which hire camper vans. A good place to start is happycampers.is who offer a range of vehicles, all of which are equipped with beds and rooftop solar panels.
About taste2travel.com
Iceland Travel Guide was originally published on Taste2Travel
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