#printrbot simple metal
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One of my patrons did an amazing job #3Dprinting my models!
I started with a Printrbot Simple Metal nine years ago. The level of detail in prints now is just jaw dropping!
Anyway just had to share. Stay amazing friends.
www.patreon.com/mz4250
#dnd #3dmodeling #3dart #dndart
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The proliferation of 3D printing technology at an industrial level can be attributed to the growing advancement in the arena of metal 3D printing. The process of metal 3D printing is now paving its way into the mainstream manufacturing industry. Owing to the gradual developments occurring in the field of technology as a whole, metal 3D printing is now proving to be an indispensable part of the manufacturing sector. Factors like increased government funding towards 3D printing in various countries and customizability are driving the overall market growth in this domain. Although, the market is still relatively fragmented, mainstay industrial players are resorting to mergers, acquisitions and product launches imbibing the latest technologies in an attempt to increase their overall market share.
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The metal 3D printing market is expected to grow beyond threefold from the year 2015 up till 2020. Such high growth is expected as the prices of metal 3D printers are expected to decrease due to availability of enhanced metal 3D printing technology. With the passage of time, metal 3D printing is expected to permeate to reach to the domestic consumer level, driving the sales to boost further. Expiration of patents of a key technology in metal 3D printing is expected to further enhance the scope of R&D in this field, thereby contributing further towards the decrease in price of metal 3D printers.
#metal 3d printers#all metal 3d printer#metal x#markforged metal x#metal printer#markforged metal x price#desktop metal 3d printer#metal 3d printer cost#titanium 3d printer#iro3d#aluminum 3d printer#printrbot simple metal#slm 3d printing#metal x 3d printer#metal 3d printing service#steel 3d printer#3d metal printer price#powder printer#metal printing machine#3d metal printing technology#metal 3d printer for sale#diy metal 3d printer#binder jetting 3d printing#slm 3d printer#all metal hot end#printrbot simple#dmls 3d printer#gold pla#cheapest metal 3d printer#desktop metal printer
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Over the years, I’ve learned a fair amount about maintaining (or coddling) a few different models of 3D printers: Makerbot (Cupcake, 2, 2x, 5th Gen), Printrbot (Simple Metal), Bits from Bytes (3D Touch and Cube), and Ultimaker (2+, Go, and Original+). Like the book about maintaining motorcycles, you can either buy a top of the line printer with awesome customer support and expect it to work amazingly, or you can get to know one intimately because you built it from a kit or from scratch and/or you found yourself elbow deep in a machine trying to troubleshoot with the help of Google, user forums, willpower, and luck. Desktop 3D printers are not “plug and play” — I have almost never been able to simply turn on and use a 3D printer without any frustrations.
I’ve spent the past two weeks in close proximity with two Ultimaker Original+ kit printers (built by Brearley students a few years ago). For better or worse, I removed and rebuilt the feeder assembly on both printers, and I’m still not satisfied with the feeder on the one sitting on my desk right now. I feel like I need to either remodel the students’ designs, change the Ultimaker’s settings, buy newer filament, and/or only print one thing at a time, as having the extruder “retract” during the print is causing problems with an already problematic feeder. I think I’ve narrowed it down to possibly needing a new ball bearing on the feeder clamp. When I notice filament isn’t advancing properly, I manually apply force to guide it from the spool to the opening of the feeder. It’s beyond tedious, and I’m sure the fumes (even from PLA) are making me stoopider.
I’ve taken to making tick marks on the filament with a permanent marker and anxiously staring to see if the filament advances properly. Essentially, I’ve learnt that the trick is to continually glare at it. As soon as I convince myself it’s working and walk away to attend to something else (or gloat), it fails. Every. Single. Time. I’m officially naming this one Christine.
But, oh, the satisfaction when it works…
(I wrote a similarly titled post about 3D printer nerd-ery in 2013 here: https://karenblumberg.wordpress.com/2013/01/17/zen3dtouch/)
Zen and the art of 3D printer maintenance redux. @BrearleyNYC #MakerEd #STEAM Over the years, I've learned a fair amount about maintaining (or coddling) a few different models of 3D printers:
#2nd grade#3D print#3D printer#3D printing#3D Touch#Bits From Bytes#Brearley#Christine#Karen Blumberg#KarenBlumberg#Makerbot#Makerbot Cupcake#Makerbot Industries#Printrbot#Printrbot Simple Metal#Simple Metal#The Brearley School#Ultimaker#Ultimaker Original+
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/lemme upgrade ya/<<
A while back I upgraded my Z axis height by purchasing the Z upgrade kit from printrbot. It was crucial for project; bulbasaur, as the tiles on ://earth were beyond the default Z height of the stock printrbot simple metal. I was aware of the X axis upgrade, but that didn’t do it for me. To my discovery matrix precision makes a X/Y upgrade, the 880R3.
The Black Anodized Metal Simple 880R3 XY Upgrade is what I went with.
As I take my PrintinZ Plate off, I reflect on the good times I had printing at 150mm x 150mm in X/Y. With all things its time for an upgrade :D
It begins by removing of the tension lock for the X belt.
After removing the tension lock, the four screws holding the bed in place are removed.
Removal of the X belt.
After removing the bed and the steel rods I was able to clean around the bearings. To my discover, I noticed the plate holding down the bearings was loose. The cause, years of vibrations from thousands of print hours. Securing this will also tighten my prints in the X axis.
Never go in dry.
Steel rod installation, with old rods for comparison.
The install of the bed starts with locking in the new belt tension plates.
This leads to the hotbed installation. I went with a MK2, it fits the under cut of the aluminum bed perfectly. I wired the board for 12V. After soldering, I put a layer of kapton tape on both sides of the solder pads to insulate it from the aluminum bed.
Before the adhesion of the the heatbed, the thermistor must be installed. The 880R3 has a nice cut out that will give me the aluminum bed temperature rather then the heatbed temperature.
Using high heat adhesive, the heatbed is installed on the underside of the aluminum bed.
Reinstallation of the X belt and the 4 bed screws complete the X axis upgrade. Testing still needs to be done, and so does wire management.
La Croix break ;D
The Y axis upgrade is pretty straight forward.
Remove the six screws holding down the the Y plate.
Remove Y plate. Remove belt. Remove rods. Add new rods. Add new belt. Tighten belt.
Install Y expansion plate and reinstall the Y plate.
Pretty straight forward.
Now the test, does the new heatbed work? What about the printer? Does it continue to work? It turns out, yes... I knew what I was doing, this time... I did though, use to many zip ties during cable management of the X install. I forgot to save one additional zip tie to lock in the Y belt.
New print size in mm: 200x 200y 250z
With the new custom bed size, comes a custom PrintinZ Plate. Before I could order the plate I wanted to get the exact dimensions of my new print area. I emailed matrix precision the image above asking for the X/Y exact dimensions and I received just that.
The new aluminum plate is much thicker then the stock bed. That being said, the binder clips I have been using for my PrintinZ plate no longer work. It is a simple fix, get larger binder clips. The thicker bed does retains heat very well. I use PLA and will be reaching a max bed temperature of 70C. The decision of 70C over 60C was made because of the material densities between the PCB heater, the aluminum bed and the PrintinZ plate. There isn’t much clearance underneath the print bed for insulation. There is space for piece of double-walled cardboard. This is only a temporary solution until I install a 3mm cork mat. In doing so, this will increase the speed for reaching bed temperature. Overall the goal with the heated bed is to further reduce model curling on large scale and long prints.
This upgrade now enables project; porygon2 beta begins.
#3d#3dprint#3dprinting#3dprinter#printrbot#simple metal#e3d v6#printinz#mk2#headed#custom#upgrade#diy#artist#artist on tumblr#art#machine#tech#technology#make#maker
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Revisiting the Printrbot Simple Metal
Revisiting the Printrbot Simple Metal
The Printrbot Simple Metal was a really cool design. It’s a Cartesian 3d printer built like a brick house by Printrbot out of Lincoln, California, who went out of business facing powerful competition from a lot of low-cost Chinese printers but recently decided to get going again. One of my coworkers had one that had an old version of Marlin on it (1.0.0?!) and I wanted to update it to improve on…
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Hexagon Shelf Connectors by TonyH0612 Dec 29, 2018 Summary For a full explanation of how to build these shelves, you can check out my Instructables at this link: Custom Hexagon Shelves Make your own custom hexagon shelves! I wanted to build a set of strong, fun shelves for our home, so I decided to make my own hexagon shelves. Each piece was printed with 3 walls with a 0.4 mm nozzle 20% infill to make the vertical walls solid and as strong as possible without printing the parts completely solid. These connectors are designed to hold 1" thick dimensional lumber, though you may need to scale them up or down slightly to fit your specific materials. With a tiny bit of sanding, these parts had a snug fit on unfinished 1" x 8" premium pine boards. Each branch of the connectors also has a countersink hole sized to fit a #6 wood screw. As you design your shelf, you will need to print a connector for the front and back of each corner. In the finished shelf, I used 16 of the triple connectors and 24 of the double connectors, which used a total of about 1 kg of filament. My favorite part about this style of shelf is that you can use two basic parts and some wood to design whatever hexagonal pattern you want, so have fun with it! Good luck! Note: The original files were exported in centimeters, which caused the parts to be off by a factor of 10 in most slicers. I've replaced those files with new ones exported in millimeters. Everything should be correct now, and I apologize for the mistake! Update: Added a part sized for 20 mm wood based on a request. They are sized for exactly 20 mm, so you may need to sand the boards or scale the part up a tiny bit to make sure everything fits correctly. Enjoy! Print Settings Printer Brand: Printrbot Printer: Printrbot Simple Metal Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 20 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7IT2MrHWQO/?igshid=3yjhmhro8mao
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I think one area people should own 3d printers.
I think one area people should own 3d printers. At least a small one. Is if you live in a RV or a Boat. So many things you can print to make the experience a whole lot better. All you would need to own is a small one like a Printrbot Metal simple or the Monoprice printer among other of a slimier build area. If you don't use a heated bed. The printer would not use a whole lot of power ether. You could easily run it off of batteries. As a lot of them also run on 12 volts. You could in theory just hook them directly to the battery with no need to use 110 power.
#3dprinting #3dprinters #3DP #RV #boating #RVliving #RVlife #travel #liveabored
#RV#RVlife#3dprint#3dprinting#3dprinted#3dp#3d printed#3d printing#3d print#3d printer#3dprinter#boating#live aboard#liveaboard#vanlife#motorhomes#travel
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A Comedy of Errors - Printrboard Rev F5 Firmware Editing How-To
Preface: I am writing this after the fact, and narrating events as they happened to me. I will (somewhat shamefully) admit that this took me about a day and a half to figure out. Hopefully it helps someone figure out how to do this, if I am correct it is a fairly niche problem as there is very little information for this specific board (rev F5). The process I went through to program the board starts several paragraphs down, feel free to skip around and control F, you will probably find something that is relevant to your particular situation.
--
As a gearhead, I am enthused by almost all things machines, and love to make. Naturally, I have a 3D printer (a Printrbot Simple Metal with heated bed from Dec. 2015).
It comes with a Ubis hotend. Over its life, it slowly became more and more averse to having filament pushed through it, and eventually rendered the printer slightly better than unusable. It was time for a change, as you can see...
Melted plastic had permanently cemented itself around the nozzle, rendering it hoopajooped. I had heard plenty about the E3D V6, so I got one and began the upgrade.
The build is fairly self explanatory, and E3D gives excellent instructions on how to do it. If you have the same Printrbot as me, be warned--the heater block WILL COLLIDE WITH THE BASE OF THE PRINTER IF YOU HOME X Y AND Z AND HAVE THE LONG SIDE OF THE BLOCK TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE PRINTER! And this WILL bend the heat brake--ask me how I know! If you scroll down you can see the orientation of the heater block that I ended up using.
With that done, it was time to modify the firmware so that the printer would recognize the new thermistor in the new hotend.
This is where things got dicey. There is almost no information on how to perform this modification with this exact board, the Printrboard rev F5. And if you’re like me (a somewhat boneheaded mechanical), this poses a great challenge. There are quite a few ways to perform these upgrades. If you just need to flash your firmware, you can use Atmel Flip to flash the Printrboard (I had done this before, there are a few guides on how to do this, such as this one https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202457834-How-to-Flash-Printrboard-Firmware). However, we don’t want to use a pre-baked firmware for this because we need to CHANGE the firmware. How the hell does one do that? This is about where I was at, and boy was I lost.
I had remembered watching a video by Thomas Sanladerer, an excellent YouTube content creator that makes informational videos about 3D printing. It shows the exact process of how to upgrade your firmware for a general 3D printing control board, such as a RAMPS or RAMBO board (Link: https://youtu.be/3gwWVFtdg-4). But I didn’t have one of those, so when I tried it, I uh... had some problems.
First, Tom recommends to use the Arduino IDE to flash the board. Now you might say, “This is a non problem! You can just tell the Marlin firmware to use the Printrboard Rev F in Configuration.h by specifying that it’s a printrboard and then hit upload. Easy!” Well, maybe for you, my microcontroller-familiar friend. Let me tell you a story of honest confusion, hunger induced frustration, and general disorientation as a hardcore mechanical tries to figure out how to do basic things with microcontrollers and C++ configuration files.
At first, I was confident. I had watched Tom’s video and thought that there was no way I could mess this up. And it would have been, if the Printrboard was based on the Arduino Mega like basically every other 3D printer control board. Haha, guess what, it doesn’t.
What the hell is that? And why is the Arduino IDE telling me that it doesn’t recognize a Printrboard when it’s one of the supported options? What does it mean Unknown CPU?
Later I would realize that these error messages were telling me exactly what I needed to do. But, in the moment, I was baffled and frustrated that it wasn’t working. More importantly, I was neck-deep in the names of different microcontrollers that were clearly reluctantly created by computer engineers who really didn’t care what the hell they called their new product, and just decided to use the seventh thing that came to their mind.
At this point I thought that the Arduino IDE was telling me that it couldn’t identify the printrboard. While it was true that it couldn’t identify the printrboard, it wasn’t telling me that. Nevertheless I soldiered on, and figured out that I needed to install another stupidly named piece of software (link https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html). This let the IDE actually recognize the printrboard, and the fact that it doesn’t actually use an Atmega 328 processor, but an AT90USB1286.
So that was a revelation. At this point, for the first time in four hours, the IDE could actually see the damn board. Keep in mind that I still had made no progress on the actual errors that the IDE was spitting at me. So I set off there.
The compiler kept claiming that this was an “unknown board” and that it didn’t have the pins for the board. I didn’t understand since I had done exactly as it asked and put “BOARD_PRINTRBOARD_REVF” and that the board was explicity listed in pins.h. After trying the number of the board, 811, in exasperation, I finally read what the IDE was actually telling me, saying that it lacked an identifier. I don’t know what I expected, this being C++, but you have to not just #define 811, you have to #define MOTHERBOARD 811.
And now the momentum built (or so I thought). The verifier progress bar advanced a little bit more. Next it complained that it wanted the ”traditional marlin” pin layout instead of the “AT90USB1286.” So I looked in the pins_PRINTRBOARD_REVF.h, and once again actually read the error message, directing me to fastio.h and comment out _AT90USBxx_TEENSYPP_ASSIGNMENTS. Now I felt like I was on to something! Next was something about DAC stepper current. I am writing all of this after the fact, but it was somewhere, I think in configuration_adv.h. The change should be similar to the previous ones, but I’m not sure, it could be something else.
By the way, if you’re installing the E3D v6, the steps for modifying the firmware are well detailed in the installation manual you can find by googling “e3d v6 install.” These changes are much easier by comparison.
The verifier finally completed successfully, and with the board I was using recognized, I selected the USBtinyISP programmer in the “Tools” tab of the Arduino IDE and uploaded it to the board. I fired up the printer and to my amazement, it seemed to work. Seemed to work.
The hotend performed very well. I didn’t have much of a way to check if the temperature was correct (i.e., the firmware changes worked). I touched a piece of scrap PLA to the block at about 60c and it seemed to go into glass transition, and heated it up all the way to see if it would melt. It did, so it must have been in the ball park.
So I used the printer for a while until I was ready to try enabling mesh bed leveling (which isn’t even possible on a printrbot that doesn’t have an LCD screen). At this point i noticed the little teensy board programmer that keeped popping up saying that the “Marlin.ino.hex” file was too large. I had completely ignored this thing up until now, simply reading that the arduino IDE had “Uploaded Successfully” and assuming the teensy programmer was redundant.
...it wasn’t.
I had somehow figured out that most 3rd party AT90USB1286 programmers could only write 64 kilobytes of program to the chip, even though it has 128 kilobytes of memory. Why? I have absolutely no idea. Regardless, I remembered that I had used Atmel FLIP to install a new prefab printrbot firmware onto my printrboard a while back. You can find a link to that above in the first part of this post. So, I tried that, and it worked. I then went to test the unified bed leveling and the printer instantly crashed as I tried to raise the Z height and it crashed the print head into the bed. Sure enough, NONE OF THE PREVIOUS FIRMWARE CHANGES I HAD EVER MADE WORKED. NONE OF THEM AT ALL. So, suddenly, all of the changes I had progressively thought i had made happened at once, and all of the default settings in Marlin that were wrong showed up, and everything went to shit. But now I had completely figured out how to change firmware settings on my printrboard. And you too can figure it out if you read this... hopefully.
Something I repeated to myself a lot during this is that if you’re not making mistakes, you’re not learning. As you can see from this article, I learned a lot in the past few days. Here’s the hotend on the printer! It makes a huge difference. No more roasty Ubis for me.
Happy printing!
Email me if this doesn’t make any sense and I’ll try to help.
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Designed this piece for a fold-up arcade machine I'm working on. It's a hinge for 1/2 inch plastic pipe. I used a Printrbot Simple Metal w/heated bed. TFW it just comes out first try and everything fits!
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Editor's note: An earlier version of this story did not clearly indicate that the Makergear M2 won in the new Workhorse category with a 9.2 score. The story has been updated to more accurately reflect the 3D Hubs ratings.
Online user community 3D Hubs has published its third annual 3D Printer Guide for 2017, based on reviews from 8,624 verified 3D printer owners of 513 different 3D printer models.
Fourteen machines separated into five categories made it into the guide's top 3D printers list for 2017. The categories include Budget, Plug-N-Play, Prosumer, Workhorse and SLS or selective laser sintering machines, which is a new commercial-grade category.
3D Hubs used a wide range of parameters to measure the user experience with 3D printers, which included print quality, build quality, reliability, ease of use, print failure rate, customer service, community, running cost, software, and value.
In all, the guide rated 72 machines (half as many as last year), from a 1, the lowest ranking, to a 10, the highest. Only machines with five or more reviews were included in the Printer Guide, which left out 441 machines that were submitted for review.
3D Hubs is a three-year-old Amsterdam-based startup that created an online distributed network as a marketplace for printing 3D objects. The network quickly grew to include more than 10,000 3D printer owners throughout the world.
The ratings include the top 20 machines in five categories and 126 printers that didn't make the top cut in their categories.
This year's categories are different from last year, in that the "Enthusiast" category has been replaced with a "Prosumer" and a "Workhorse" category.
For the first two years the guide was published, the Makergear M2 (Amazon price) fused deposition modeling (FDM) printer took the top spot with a 9.1 rating in the "Enthusiast" category, which is for intermediate and professional users. This year, the Makergear M2 again took the top spot with an even higher rating -- 9.2 -- but in the new "Workhorse" category, which includes "robust machines that can print nonstop with minimal print failure."
"These are printers manufactured with reliability in mind and are open to slight modifications and tinkering" the Guide states.
In the Prosumer category, the Ultimaker 2+ (Amazon price) took the first place with a 9.1 rating.
Also included in the top three Prosumer machines category were Formlabs' Form 2 SLA stereolithography or resin polymer printer (vendor price), which received a 9.0 rating, and the Zortrax M200 (Amazon price) FDM printer with an 8.9 rating.
Three other machines with the top spots in the Workhorse category included Aleph Objects' LulzBot TAZ 6 (Amazon price) with a 9.1 rating; the BCN3D Sigma (Amazon price) with an 8.9 rating; and the FlashForge Creator Pro (Amazon price) with an 8.9 rating.
In the Budget category, which focuses on machines that offer good print quality as well as the best value and bang for your buck, top honors went to Prusa Research's Original Prusa i3 MK2 (vendor price), which garnered a 9.1 rating. The Prusia i3 comes as a kit, which means it requires more assembly than most. But it is also considered a RepRap-style machine -- meaning it can print its own system parts -- so it shouldn't be too difficult to put together.
The two other machines with the top Budget category rankings were the Rostock MAX (Amazon price) with an 8.8 rating; and the Printrbot Simple Metal (Amazon price) with an 8.5 rating.
In the Plug-N-Play category -- which as you might have guessed means you can pull the machine from the box, plug it in and start printing with little to no setup -- CraftUnique's CraftBot PLUS (Amazon price) grabbed a top spot with a 9.1 rating. Also receiving a 9.1 rating in the Plug-N-Play category was Aleph Objects' LulzBot Mini (Amazon price). The CEL Robox 3D printer (Amazon price) came in third with a still-high 9.0 rating.
In the new Selective Laser Sintering category, only one machine was reviewed -- the EOS P 396, an industrial machine that retails for $250,000. (Vendor site.) But, what do you expect to pay a floor-standing 3D printer that uses a laser to melt and solidify layers of powdered metals into finished objects? The EOS P 396 got an 8.2 rating based on the opinions of 50 owners.
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Новости сайта #ENGINEERING - 工程
New Post has been published on https://engineer.city/am-opportunities-in-the-wind-turbine-industry/
AM opportunities in the wind turbine industry
There are serious opportunities for Additive Manufacturing (AM) in the wind energy industry. Here, materials scientist Inês Castro from Matmatch outlines five key areas.
Additive manufacturing, also known as 3D printing is “the process of making parts from 3D model data, usually layer upon layer, as opposed to subtractive manufacturing and formative manufacturing technologies” [1].
Contrasting with these latter technologies, AM can produce components with complex geometries, consume fewer raw-materials, produce less waste, have decreased energy consumption and reduced time-to-market. Adding numbers, AM can speed up the development time by up to 75%, reduce material resources by up to 65% and reduce gas emissions by up to 30% [2]. Moreover, a single part can be manufactured in one step, not requiring a secondary joining process [3,4].
Additionally, additive manufacturing doesn’t solely need to be applied to the early stage of development, but can also be incorporated in the repair of components. In the early stages of being introduced to the market, AM was used to create and develop models and prototypes. However, due to all of the advantages offered, the market for 3D printed products started to grow, especially in areas with short-run production and with high customisation and freedom of design [4].
There are several additive manufacturing processes and techniques that can be classified in terms of heat source, the feedstock and the manipulator [5]. The processes can be applicable to multiple types of material, including polymers, which are more common and developed, also composites, ceramics and metals [6].
Additive manufacturing applied to wind turbines
The Global Wind Energy Council has stated that the wind industry is experiencing exponential growth recently with the aid of the offshore wind turbines market. Thus, development and innovation through materials and manufacturing technologies are essential for the wind industry to prosper and to continue increasing its annual energy production [7]. The blades rotate and shift with the action of the wind, making the rotor spin. The gearbox makes the connection between the low-speed shaft to the high-speed shaft, increasing the rotations per minute from 30 to 60 rpm to approximately 1000 to 1800 rpm, in turn making it possible for the generator to produce electric power. The tower supports the turbine’s structure, with the nacelle containing and protecting the components on top of the tower [9].
AM technologies show a lot of potential when it comes to the wind power industry, as it could in the future enable in-situ manufacture of turbine components that are designed for the unique needs of the resources of a particular location. This would, for example, decrease the shipping, transportation and handling costs and increase the rate at which new blade prototypes can be tested[6].
Additive manufactured moulds
The Advanced Manufacturing Office (AMO) of the US Department of Energy has started to print moulds for the blades with AM technologies, as shown in figure 2. Consequently, it can make wind energy a more market competitive technology. The expansion of this application in the mould industry would reduce the steps, the cost and the time for mould fabrication, as the traditional route is a process that may take several weeks to months to achieve in its totality [6,10].
The mould in figure 2 was created by joining multiple printed sections created in the Big Area Additive Manufacturing (BAAM, figure 3) 3D printer at Oak Ridge National Laboratory [10].
The final blade section was successfully manufactured using the AM mould and can be seen in figure 4.
Additive manufacturing of small, off-grid turbines
A different project called ‘A Small Turbine to Make a Big Difference’ started by Kyle Bassett, has the goal to install small-scale plastic-based 3D printed wind turbines in remote areas with a lack of access to electricity. The founder of this project started by designing a turbine capable of storing the generated energy in batteries for personal use [11].
As a result, a scale model of the turbine (figure 5) was developed using a Printrbot Simple Metal 3D printer [12]. It included the blades, hubs, rotor connectors, the frame and the blade ends, which would be the most expensive components if made through traditional manufacturing methods [13].
Printed nacelles
Other applications could include the creation of the nacelle. The advantages of incorporating AM into such structures are similar, e.g. economic incentives for mould production, but challenges are also encountered, such as the need to offer weather protection, passive cooling and high geometry complexity.
The Additive Manufacturing Integrated Energy (AMIE) project, however, has successfully manufactured the nacelle structure and it can be seen in figure 6 [14].
Repair and replacement of components
Even though most of the attention is focused on the manufacture of new components, the repair of parts which need improvement or replacement due to wear should also be considered. For this application, hybrid systems incorporating processes such as Directed Energy Deposition with subtractive machining could eventually lead to the proper tolerances and design imitation of the replaced components [14].
Printing large-scale components
Large scale metal AM or wire and arc additive manufacture is an emerging technology which may facilitate the printing of large-scale parts. This even makes additive manufacturing of the nacelle and blade moulds possible, as it doesn’t need a constricted operation room, allowing as the name indicates, large-scale applications.
Overall, additive manufacturing technologies offer a wide range of advantages for the wind industry. The examples given show that implementation is possible, and even recommended, for a more market-competitive energy supplier. After the technologies became more developed, reliable and standardised, the supplier chains will be reduced and the production could be more localised, reducing the transportation times and costs, allowing the further implementation of AM in the wind industry.
References: [1] ISO/ASTM 52900:2015, “Additive manufacturing — General principles — Terminology,” [Online].[Accessed on 3 11 2018]. [2] Siemens, “From design to repair — AM changes everything,” [Online]. Available: https://www.siemens.com/global/en/home/products/energy/services/maintenance/parts/additive- manufacturing.html#. [Accessed on 10 11 2018]. [3] S. Huang, P. Liu, A. Mokasdar e L. Hou, “Additive manufacturing and its societal impact: a literature review,” The International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technologies, pp. 1191-1195, 16 October 2012. [4] S. Madara e C. Selvan, “Review of Recent Developments in 3-D Printing of Turbine Blades,” European Journal of Advances in Engineering and Technology, vol. 4, no 7, pp. 497-509, 2017. [5] F. Martina e S. Williams, “Wire+arc additive manufacturing vs. traditional machining from solid: acost comparison,” Cranfield University, 2015. [6] B. Post, B. Richardson, R. Lind, L. Love, P. Lloyd, V. Kunc, B. Rhyne, A. Roschli, J. Hannan, S. Nolet, K. Veloso, P. Kurup, T. Remo e D. Jenne, “Big Area Additive Manufacturing Application in Wind Turbine Molds,” Solid Freeform Fabrication Symposium- An Additive Manufacturing Conference, 2017. [7] M. Froese, “Windpower-Engineering & Development,” 04 01 2017. [Online]. Available: https://www.windpowerengineering.com/business-news-projects/blade-materials-manufacturing- changing-keep-larger-turbines/. [Accessed on A 11 11 2018]. [8] Yukon Government, “Energy, Mines and Resources,” [Online]. Available: http://www.energy.gov.yk.ca/wind.html. [Accessed on 10 11 2018]. [9] Wind Energy Technologies Office, “The inside of a wind turbine,” [Online]. Available: https://www.energy.gov/eere/wind/inside-wind-turbine-0. [Accessed on 10 11 2018]. [10] Alec, “3D printer and 3D printing news,” 01 08 2016. [Online]. Available: http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160801-amo-cuts-wind-energy-costs-by-3d-printing-gigantic-wind- blade-molds-in-6-feet-tall-sections.html]. [Acedido em 10 11 2018]. [11] S. Goehrke, “3DPRINT.COM,” 09 02 2015. [Online]. Available: https://3dprint.com/43449/rmrd-tech-small-wind-turbines/. [Accessed on 06 11 2018]. [12] K. Bassett, R. Carriveau e D. Ying, “3D printed wind turbines part 1: Design considerations and rapid manufacture potential,” Sustainable Energy Technologies and Assessments, vol. 11, pp. 186-193, 2015. [13] 3D printer an 3D printing news, “Student develops portable 3D printed wind turbines to bring affordable electricity to remote areas,” 09 02 2015. [Online]. Available: https://www.3ders.org/articles/20150209-canadian-student-develops-3d-printed-open-source- wind-turbines-for-remote-regions.html. [Accessed on 10 11 2018]. [14] B. Post, B. Richardson, S. Palmer, L. Love, D. Lee, P. Kurup, J. D.S., T. Remo e M. Mann, “The Current State of Additive Manufacturing in Wind Energy Systems,” Oak Ridge National Laboratory, no ORNL/TM-2017/479, 2017. [15] F. Martina, “Investigation of methods to manipulate geometry, microstructure and mechanical properties in titanium large scale Wire + Arc additive manufacturing,” PhD Thesis — School of Aerospace, Transport and Manufacturing, Academic year 2013-2014. [16] Siemens, [Online]. Available: https://www.siemens.com/innovation/en/home/pictures.
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Impresora 3d - Printrbot Metal Pla De I3d Sistemas - AnuncialoVenezuela.com
Impresora 3D – Printrbot Simple Metal
100% Ensamblada, Calibrada y Probada! (*) Cantidad Disponible: 4
Prueba: Impresión 3mmBox + Impresión e Instalación del Cono del Ventilador
INCLUIMOS:
1.- Programa de Diseño: AUTODESK FUSION 360 (Licencia Comercial)
Valor U S $ 300 totalmente GRATIS (suscripcion de 1 año)!!!
2.- Curso de Entrenamiento Intensivo y Personalizado de Un (1) día
Ganadora de premios por 2 años consecutivos – Revista MAKE:
Impresora elaborada en Metal -> más precisión y velocidad de impresión
Ahora con Resolución de 50 Micras!!!
(comparado con 100 micras de la competencia)
Correas GT2 -> más presición
Sensor de Auto-Nivelación -> automáticamente calibra la altura del eje Z
Extrusor de Aluminio -> más confiabilidad
Actualizable a la version con Plataforma Calentable para utilizar ABS, PLA y muchos otros tipos de filamentos (por favor, preguntenos por el precio)
Somos Distribuidores Oficiales de Printrbot para Venezuela
Con la Impresora 3D Printrbot, incluimos:
1) Curso de Entrenamiento Intensivo y Personalizado de Un (1) día:
* Introducción a la Impresión 3D
* Puesta a Punto de la Impresora 3D Printrbot
* Practicas de Impresión en su Impresora 3D Printrbot
–> Preguntenos si desea mas detalles del Curso!
Al finalizar el Curso, Ud. se lleva su Impresora Nueva! y al haber realizado las prácticas de impresión en ella, tendra un alto nivel de confiablidad en cuanto a su funcionamiento!
2) Manilla de Aluminio (para movilizar la Impresora fácilmente)
3) Programa de Diseño: AUTODESK FUSION 360 (Licencia Comercial)
Valor U S $ 300 totalmente GRATIS (suscripcion de 1 año)!!!
Opcionalmente, ofrecemos:
– Rollos de PLA de 1 Kg c/u
– Base/Porta Rollo Acrilico para facil deslizamiento de los Rollos de Filamento
– Rollos de Adhesivos para la Plataforma de Impresión (“Bed Tape”)
Especificaciones Técnicas:
Printrbot Simple Metal – Modelo: 1403
Volumen de Construcción: 6″ x 6″ x 6″ / 150mm x 150mm x 150mm / 216 pulgadas cúbicas
Resolución: 50 Micras (0,05 mm)
Velocidad de Impresión: 80mm/seg max recomendado
Filamento: 1.75mm PLA (muestra incluida)
Extrusor: Extrusor Alu (direct drive). 1.75mm Ubis Hot End con inyector de 0.4mm
Auto Nivelación: Sensor Auto-Nivelación usa software para calibrar la altura del eje Z
Plataforma de Impresión: Metal estándar, opcional: Plataforma Calentable para ABS
Construcción: Cuerpo de acero recubierto y aluminio con ejes lineales de 8mm y 12mm de diámetro
Correa: GT2
Poleas: con 20 dientes, brida dual GT2 de aluminio
Electrónica: Printrbot Rev F con conexión micro-USB (incluye cable) y ranura para tarjeta micro SD para impresión sin conexión
Requerimientos de Potencia: Fuente de potencia de 12V (6 amp) tipo laptop (incluida)
Corriente Máxima: 4.5 amps
Motores: NEMA 17 stepper
Tamaño de la Impresora(*): 18″ x 17″ x 13″ (L x W x H)
Ensamblaje Requerido: No
(*)”Tamaño de la Impresora” es el espacio necesario para operar la unidad en todos sus rangos de movimientos: Ejes X, Y, y Z
Incluye una muestra de 1 Libra (1/2 Kg) de Filamento PLA
Usa Rollos de Filamento estándar! -> se consiguen fácilmente en el mercado
-> no usa cartuchos costosos como otras marcas!
Somos Distribuidores Oficiales de Printrbot para Venezuela
Usted cuenta con:
– El Primer Nivel de Atención y Soporte en ESPAÑOL:
Atención Telefónica en ESPAÑOL! -> a diferencia de otras marcas, que lo remiten a su fábrica en algún lugar del mundo, y debe comunicarse en Ingles!
Servicio Técnico Especializado en Venezuela!
– Cursos de Entrenamiento (disponibles):
Introducción a la Impresión 3D Printrbot
Ensamblaje de Impresoras 3D Printrbot
– Las Impresoras con la mejor relación PRECIO/VALOR del mercado! – Calibradas y Probadas!
– El Respaldo de la Fábrica Printrbot ubicada en California, E.E.U.U. en caso de que su situación no pueda ser resuelta localmente.
Importante:
El Servicio Técnico, Soporte y Atención debe ser canalizado a través del Distribuidor con el cual, hizo la negociación de la Impresora 3D
Las unidades compradas en E.E.U.U. – NO vienen Calibradas
Forma de Pago: DEPOSITO O TRANSFERENCIA BANCARIA
GARANTIA: 30 días por defectos de fabricación.
ENVIOS: – Retirar su Impresora después del Curso (incluido), es altamente recomendado!
– ZOOM (cobro y seguro en el destino)
Para ver el anuncio completo visita la pagina:
http://www.anuncialovenezuela.com/impresora-3d-printrbot-metal-pla-de-i3d-sistemas/
#Venezuela #ANUNCIALOVENEZUELA
#Computación
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Affordable 3D Printer Examples To Check Out in 2017
3D printing at home has become easier than ever before, and that’s because of the vast array of affordable 3D printers on the market.
You can now complete your projects without spending a fortune on special parts and costly prototypes – simply download a public 3D domain file for free, and apply an inexpensive filament, and the work will be done.
According to some statistics, cheap 3D printers are easier to use, and are thereof recommended to first-time users looking to enhance their startup project, or to teach some engineering fundamentals to younger audiences.
3D printer prices vary depending on the brand, but unlike the time it took $100,000 to purchase them, the cheapest 3D printer nowadays costs somewhere between $400 and $500. Looking for well-preserved 3D printers for sale may turn out to be an even more economical solution.
Fairly enough, you can’t expect a 3D printer for sale to have the bells and whistles of a professional one, so be ready to embrace the limitations imposed by lower 3D printer prices.
Your off-the-shelf printer may decrease build volume as it does not offer a heated print bed, neither will it guarantee the same quality as market’s frontrunners. The best cheap 3D printer, however, offers functionality that should not be neglected.
Plus, much of your work will depend on how creative you are, so if you work on projects with tinkering and patience, the 3D printer cost will not matter. In certain cases, you will even be able to create breathtaking projects at half of the price you paid for your new smartphone. Doesn’t that sound awesome?
But how much does a 3D printer cost? More importantly, which are the best 3D printers for sale that won’t break the bank? In order to answer these questions, you must define your needs and expectations, and compare several solutions to discover the right product for your projects.
I know you are looking for the best 3d printer under $500 or the best 3d printer under $1000. There’s a bit of something for everyone in this article that shows the best and most affordable 3D printers in 2017.
Dremel 3D40-01 Idea Builder
The Dremel 3D40 Idea Builder is the next generation Idea Builder that continues the Dremel heritage of reliability and ease-of-use while bringing the convenience of Wi-Fi connectivity and mobile interaction to the world of 3D building. Easy-to-use right out of the box, the 3D40 Idea Builder features built-in printable files so you can start building immediately, without the need of a computer.
An advanced extruder design features an active filament monitoring system to ensure successful builds and the exclusive, Quick Level guided levelling system makes set-up a snap. With a build capacity larger than the Dremel 3D20, you can build bigger projects inside the fully enclosed, illuminated workspace with a cooling system that prevents object warping and keeps your builds precise.
Design and edit your models with the included Print Studio software by Autodesk, and control the building process using a full-color touch-screen.
ROBO 3D R1 Plus
The improved R1 +Plus includes all new linear motion and lead screws for better quality, performance, and consistency. Also includes a better filament feeding system for ease of use and a “quick release” for fast change out of the extruder. Additional components for leveling, guidance, and performance of the R1 +Plus make it the best option for desktop 3D Printing today.
XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 3D Printer
Don’t let its slimmer and lighter look fool you, the da Vinci Jr. has a robust build size of 5.9 x 5.9 x 5.9 inches and a resolution of 100 to 400 microns.
Its design allows for the inclusion of an auto-feeding filament system, which takes the PLA filament to the extruder, and ensures that the filament is loaded properly and is ready to print. The Jr. 1.0 only prints in DEHP-free and Heavy metal-free PLA filament.
New Matter – MOD-t 3D Printer
Create exciting inventions right from home with this 3D printer, which features a fire-retardant PC/ABS build platform that holds builds up to 150mm x 100mm x 125mm. Wi-Fi and USB 2.0 interfaces ensure easy connectivity as you unlock your creativity.
From young upstarts New Matter, the MOD-t is an attractive cheap 3D printer with smooth lines and a clean design.
As well as competitive pricing, features include wireless network connectivity, so you can select, customize, and print wirelessly from your computer, tablet or smartphone, and a clear cover that projects the 150 x 100 x 125 mm build space and reduces noise.
With hardware and software designed for simplicity, reliability, and intuitive operation, the MOD-t brings the creative excitement of 3D printing to everyone.
The MOD-t is ultra low maintenance, highly consistent and Wi-Fi enabled, allowing you to print directly from any device.
FlashForge Creator Pro
The FlashForge Creator Pro is a reasonably priced Chinese 3D printer, which bears close resemblance to the Makerbot Replicator 2X. It is a step up from the original entry level FlashForge Creator, but comes with a metal frame and enclosed chassis. Other new features include the upgraded platform leveling system and metal build plate and guide rod to help with stabilization and durability. It has dual extruders and printing materials include ABS, PLA and PVA.
Wanhao 3D Printer
It comes in a black steel exoframe, which makes it very stable and vibration safe. The 4s features a heated build plate and fully enclosed build area to ensure accurate prints and a stable temperature which helps prevent shrinking and warping of plastics. The Duplicator 4s is equipped with the new MK10 Dual-Extruder set for dual printing. Use two different colors or use one of the extruders with HIPS or PVA as support material. Other features include upgraded electronics and 1/16 micro-stepping motor control.
Polar 3D
The award-winning, revolutionary design of the polar 3D desktop printer typically produces 4 times the build volume at 25 percent cost of competitors. Sleek, quiet, Wi-Fi enabled, and with an open-view that allows you to Watch your 3D print objects being created.
It’s not only a radical improvement in 3D desktop printing, but also fun! in addition, the time-lapse camera will leave you mesmerized as you Watch your 3D creation come to life via the polar cloud. The free polar cloud allows any polar 3D owner to load files, print, and view the process from anywhere in the world with a web browser.
And, If you really want to take it on the go, it’s so lightweight and durable you could take it to a friends house or to work. Its reliability and ease-of-use are perfect for the classroom or makerspace lab.
QIDI TECH I
The Qidi Tech I is a reasonably priced Chinese 3D printer, which bears close resemblance to the Makerbot Replicator 2X.
It comes with a metal frame, enclosed chassis and an aluminum heated build plate. The Tech I has dual extruders and printing materials include ABS, PLA and PVA.
UP mini 2
UP mini 2 is not only affordable, reliable and easy-to-use like the first generation UP mini, it also comes with many new features related to usability, portability and connectivity.
The UP mini 2 is for people who want to start 3D printing in no time. A new sleek design packed with killer features, a versatile machine suitable for anyone, anywhere. Continue to be UP’s best value offer for desktop 3D printing, the UP mini 2 inherited all the good stuff of UP mini 1, including a low price point, easy to use and exceptional reliability. The print quality of UP mini 2 is a big leap, thanks to the new mechanical design and the capability to print in 0.15mm layers.
Printrbot Simple
The Printrbot Simple (Model 1403) fully assembled 3D fused-filament-fabrication printer has a black powder-coated all-metal construction with open platform for fabricating parts up to 6 x 6 x 6 inches (H x W x D) using 1.75-mm PLA thermoplastic filament (sold separately). The frame is made from steel and aluminum for durability, and it has a black powder-coated finish to protect against wear.
The printer head moves on the Y (backward and forward) and Z (up and down) axes, while the print bed moves on the x (left to right) axis. The steel and aluminum print bed is warp resistant and includes an auto-leveling probe that works with the user-chosen computer software to provide a level print surface. The hot end has a maximum resolution of 100 microns and includes a fan to help solidify the molten filament as it is extruded onto the print bed.
The printer uses open source software and connects to the computer using the included mini-USB cable. Using an SD card (sold separately), the printer can be disconnected from the computer after initialization for untethered printing during long print jobs.
The guide rails have a 12-mm diameter for stability and have linear bearings for smooth vertical movement of the print head. The GT2 belt and aluminum pulley system facilitates precise movement of the print head. The NEMA 17 stepper motor meets the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standard ICS 16-2001. The printer includes a sample spool of PLA (polylactic acid) filament.
FlashForge Finder
Meet the new kid on the block… The user-friendly, home-friendly, and wallet-friendly 3D Printer from FlashForge is ready to play. Loaded with easy-to-use features, and designed to be at home in kids rooms and classrooms, the new FlashForge Finder is the first choice for 3D printing novices and educators.
Beginners benefit from the slide-in build plate, assisted bed-leveling, and intuitive color touchscreen. And parents and teachers appreciate its quiet and safe operation. The Finder uses only non-toxic PLA, and the heated components are safely encased. The creative world of 3D printing awaits, and the FlashForge Finder is here to show you the way.
LulzBot Mini Desktop 3D Printer
The LulzBot Mini is a high performance desktop 3D printer engineered to be easy to use. Even better, the LulzBot Mini is Open Source Hardware, certified by the Free Software Foundation for respecting your freedom. Computer World exclaimed, “Any serious maker should consider this machine because of its flexibility, accuracy and speed”.
All LulzBot products use Free Software and are Open Source Hardware. This means your LulzBot Mini uses proven technology developed collaboratively. It also means you are free to adopt the latest and greatest technology being developed across the 3D printing industry, from new software packages to experimental materials.The Mini ships fully assembled and calibrated so you will be printing within minutes of opening the box.
XYZprinting da Vinci 2.0 Duo
The main advantage to using the XYZ Printing da Vinci over competitive versions is the ease of use. Regardless of experience level in operating or working with a 3D printer, this version quickly and without difficulty allows anyone to convert two-dimensional drawings into three-dimensional objects within a short period of time.
Designed to be a plug-and-play device, putting the printer into action merely requires connecting the printer to a computer, opening the software, opening or importing the desired files, customizing the settings if desired and printing the sketch.
Printrbot Play
The Printrbot Play (Model 1505) fully assembled 3D fused-filament-fabrication printer with metal frame has an open platform for fabricating parts up to 4 x 4 x 5 inches (W x D x H) using 1.75-mm PLA filament (sold separately). The print head moves on the X (left to right) axis and Z (up and down) axes, while the bed moves on the Y (backward and forward). The print bed is a metal plate and includes an auto-leveling probe that works with the user-chosen computer software to provide a level print surface.
The printer uses open source software and connects to the computer using the included micro-USB cable. Using a micro-SD card (sold separately), the printer can be disconnected from the computer after initialization for untethered printing. Maximum resolution of 100 microns. The printer includes a sample of filament.
M3D Micro
The Micro is the world’s first truly consumer 3D printer and is powered by “Micro Motion Technology,” a series of next generation innovations, creating precision at a fraction of the cost of other 3D Printers.
Sporting a compact design, cool color choices, user-friendly software, and replaceable print beds and nozzles, it’s the perfect 3D printer for beginners and experts alike.
The Micro comes with M3D Software for Windows operating systems. Our software has an easy-to-use interface, and is fully touch screen capable. The M3D Software allows you to organize the 3D models you’ve downloaded into an easy to view library.
Ultimaker 2+ 3D Printer
Engineered to perform, the Ultimaker 2+ is reliable, efficient, and user-friendly. Thanks to its support of a wide range of materials, it’s suitable for a huge variety of applications, from prototypes to customized tools. It’s a great all-around 3D printer that delivers consistent results.
Maker Select
If you’re ready to take your ideas and designs from paper or CAD file to the next level, the Monoprice MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is the perfect starter solution for your needs! Unlike kit-based printers, which require a certain level of knowledge, experience, and time to assemble, the MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is assembled using only 6 screws and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box.
With the ability to print any type of 3D filament and a price point lower than most DIY kits, this entry-level 3D printer is the easiest and least expensive way to join the 3D printing revolution!
Includes 2GB micro SD card preloaded with printable 3D models out of the box Includes sample PLA filament so you can print right out of the box Heated build plate allows for high-reliability printing of slow cooling materials, such as ABS Can use compatible software, such as Cure, Repeater, or Simplify 3D Expanded user’s manual with detailed, easy-to-follow assembly and usage instructions Tighten just 6 screws and be printing in 10 minutes Choose to give the innovative and creative gift of learning.
MP Select Mini
Top of the cheap 3D printer list is the Monoprice MP Select Mini, an impressive machine with a smart and compact design. It’s got a quick release steel gear filament feeder, a nozzle cooling fan, a color LCD, a heated build plate, and microSD and USB connectivity.
The heated build plate and wide extruder temperature range are incredibly good value here, because it means this cheap 3D printer can work with most types of filament; from basic filaments like ABS and PLA, to more exotic or dissolvable materials like conductive PLA, wood and metal composites, and PVA.
MakerBot Replicator Mini Compact 3D Printer
Save time and accelerate iteration by pairing the Replicator Mini+ with MakerBot Print software and MakerBot Mobile. The Replicator Mini+ is Cloud-enabled so you can control it remotely with MakerBot Print or the MakerBot Mobile app. With MakerBot Print, you can import Native CAD files, auto-arrange them during print preparation, and then print them on one or more printers. To get started printing quickly and easily, MakerBot Mobile offers an all-new guided wireless setup.
What should you be looking for?
Trying to answer the ‘how much is a 3D printer’ question, many of us give up on essential functionality in advance. We know that professional machines do way more than basic printers, but luckily for us, that doesn’t only mean sacrificing essential features.
There are a number of best-budget 3D solutions that do the same job of their costly versions, and will respond to all your filament requests, printing desires, and compatibility issues. Make sure all capacity is there, and that there is no cheaper printer that can do the same work.
Performance: The issue of speed and resolution
When developing 3D products, experts must consider many factors, the most important of which is definitely accurate calibration and resolution options.
There are printers that level print beds automatically, or allow you to adjust their Z height manually (Z height is in fact the space between the print bed and the extruder). If the print plate is leveled in the right way, all of the models you’ve printed will be accurate.
The operating mechanism doesn’t go too far from the one of inkjet printers, but emphasizes way more on resolution and speed. Draft prints, however, will go out faster, while higher resolution ones will require time and few professional touches.
Size is also very important, as with printers that can’t pull off pieces larger than 5 inches; you will be forced to assemble models piece by piece. Those of you looking to prepare diverse XY and Z objects should give a look to 8 inches printers instead.
Design: The better the design is, the better the prints will turn out
Foremost, you should be looking for a sturdier foundation to build projects successfully. A plastic and light printer may be easy to move around, but won’t handle swaying and replacing as well as a metal-frame, heavy one would. If interested to print using ABS filament and wish to avoid warping, you should also look for a device that has a heated print plate.
Filament & Cartridge: Plan your expenses in advance
Budget-friendly printers help you save few bucks on the initial investment, but some of them can dry the pocket once you actually start working with them. The most you’d spend with an on-budget 3D printer would be on filament cartridge ($20-$50 per kilogram spool for retail filament or proprietary manufacturer cartridge).
We recommend proprietary filament, as it is not that likely to clog the extruder (as long as you’ve picked the right type for your printer). If using universal one, shop around to pick the best offered colors and quality.
Connectivity: Check whether it is usable with your software, and whether it supports wireless printing
Most affordable 3D printers come with free, open-source software you can use to design your projects, or at least recommend a good program for the purpose.
What can really make a difference here is whether you can actually understand how the software works, as it varies from extremely simple (and limited) to ultra advanced Cura-type systems that edit files, change temperature, and allow the customization of virtually every specific task.
A recent, major and convenient discovery is the wireless printing option, thanks to which you don’t even have to connect the printer to your device.
At the moment, there are only few Wi-Fi 3D printers on the market (and the price is not exactly friendly!), but a handy alternative is to get one that works with SD cards to make printing easier. Partial tethering is also an option, where you need to plug a USB cable to the printer, and disconnect it once the first model layers are extruded.
Consider the materials you will work with
Most of cheaper 3D printers work applying the FFF technique, which means that they use spools of plastic filament which is melted, and then solidified to form and extrude an object. In the most common scenario, the filament is either polyactic acid (PLA) or acrylontrile butadiene styrene (ABS).
They have very different properties: PLA, for instance, is the more flexible and smoother option, but users often dislike it because of emitting melting fumes that should be prevented with a heated print bed. ABS, on the other hand, melts depending on its own temperature.
FFA printing is also possible with wood, cooper and bronze compositions, high-impact polystyrene (HIPS), polycarbonate, nylon, UV-luminescent filaments, conductive ABS and PLA, PC-ABS, plasticized copolyamide thermoplastic elastomer (PCTPE), polyethylene terephthalate (PETT), Tritan polyester, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), and many more.
The melting point is different for each material, which is why you should closely follow the manual of your printer, and limit the choice of an exotic filament to one whose temperature your device can actually control.
Consider the size of the objects you are about to print
When looking and printers, pinpoint such that have a build area large enough to accommodate and pull through the objects you want to print. Consider all three dimensions, or ask the vendor about the largest object the printer can offer (don’t look for exact levels, though).
Most of the 3D printers you will see will have a build area 6 x 9 inches square, or perhaps few inches up/in depth, or few feet extra on the side. Surprisingly, most 3D printers are not squared.
Consider the surface you would like to build on
The printing surface is also very important, but novice designers tend to neglect it. When the platform is good, the object won’t have any problem adhering to it, and be removed easily once printing is completed.
In most cases, the configuration consists of a blue painter tape wrapped around a heated glass platform, where objects would stick and then fall off easily. Good and solid platforms will prevent the corners of your objects from curling upwards. On ABS printers, this is a common problem.
Some of the building platforms will require you to add glue to the surface for objects to stick on, but you have to consider soaking the platform in warmer water in order for the object to come loose and be removed with ease.
Some of the 3D printers come with perforated boards with several holes that are filled with hot plastic during printing. The problematic part is that the object is held so solidly on the platform that it takes a while to remove it. In such case, you should take an awl or a thumb tack and slowly push the plastic plugs off the perforation to let the object go. While cleaning the board, make sure it is not damaged.
from Web Development & Designing http://www.designyourway.net/blog/tech/affordable-3d-printer-examples-to-check-out/
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DOOM FUZZ! Finally finished my first custom guitar pedal. It's about as simple as it gets. I started with a Bazz Fuzz, then played around with resistor values and different diodes until I liked it. Then I printed the case on a Printrbot simple metal. If I keep building gear, I'm going to have to record that Chiptune Industrial album I keep fantasizing about.
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