#pawpointer

[machetheferret]

beasts of old?

more like

yeasts of mold

gotem

[queenjanai]

apparently a new map of xadia has been released. not all of the writing is readable but here's what i picked up

on xadia's side:

Enchanted Forest, Drakenwood, Umbertor

Tidebound Archipelago

Frozen Sea, Shiverglades

Sea of the Castout, Ocean Point

Spinning Sea, Golf of Tenebris

Ruins of Elarion, The Far Reaches

Silvergrove, Moonshadow Forest

The Shards, The Black Tundra

and on the human side:

Weeping Bay, Dragontail

Berylgarten (Duren)

Eboreus (Neolandia)

Serpentongue, Winterpeak (Del Bar)

Independent Isles, Pawpoint Isles

Skall's Hook

[secondhandpurrspurrs-blog]

Free to sign up from the website of Fresh Step litter brand.

Earn 25 Paw Points® just for joining. Any cat parents can also enlist their own kitties in order to obtain free stuff on their cats birthday(s). Donate your Paw Points® to your favorite shelter (enlist Second Hand Purrs as your primary shelter), so they get the free litter, toys, cat beds and more their kitties need.

sign up at freshstep.com/invite/register/00160C11/                            

[pawpointer]

Before You Get Someone a Christmas Puppy, Read This!

The Better Way to Give the Gift of a Dog for Christmas

Its mid-December with the holidays are fast approaching. For many families, this marks the time of year when the “should we get a dog” conversation starts to pick up steam especially as those timeless images of the Christmas puppy with a big red bow around his neck starts to pop up in every TV commercial and on all of our Facebook news feeds.

Unlike a new dollhouse or remote controlled car, giving the gift of a puppy also means giving the gift of a serious time commitment and financial responsibility. Adding to that, during the Christmas rush, many people may find themselves racing through the critical steps of finding the right breed and a reputable breeder making it easy to miss the red flags that would indicate whether or not a breeder is reputable. That’s why this holiday season, we are recommending to give the gift of a dog without the actual dog. You can wrap all the important things you’ll need for your future best friend (crate, collar, leash, toys, training books, etc.) and put those under the tree so that you can include the whole family in the process of finding your new dog in January!

Don’t Cheat the Puppy Search Process

Anyone who has gone through the process of getting a puppy from a reputable breeder will tell you that one of the most important parts of the search was taking the trip to visit mom and her new litter.  When you go on a breeder visit, it is your time to get to know him or her and feel comfortable that they are taking all the steps necessary to raise a healthy litter. These steps should include providing a clean living space, socializing the litter, and testing and monitoring the health of all their animals (both the breeding dogs and their puppies). You and your kids will also have quality time to interact with the adult versions the breed you have chosen. Puppies may grab the spotlight, but observing the adults and taking note of their activity level, personalities and size will give you and your kids a first-hand opportunity to see how the breed will fit in with your family once it is all grown up—it is a great snapshot into your puppy’s future self! This step also gives breeders their very own opportunity to ask questions of and vet you—the family that has applied for one of their puppies.  Those in the position of placing any dog (either a puppy or a rescue) with a new family will always want to meet everyone who will be at home caring for their dog on a daily basis so they can determine if it is going to be a good fit for that specific animal.

At the point you have decided to get a puppy, you will have had time to consider what the next 10-15 years with a dog means for your family, but without including your kids during this waiting period, you may be cheating them out of the same quality time to understand their new commitment. The holidays are an exciting time and adding a puppy to the mix can make the idea of added work and responsibility seem like no big deal, but as you head into January and February your Christmas puppy can start to feel like a lot of work.  This especially rings true if you live somewhere that house-training involves many hours in the snow and ice—and that could be reason enough to wait for the spring to get a dog! Slow down the process to give everyone else time away from the glow of the Christmas lights to understand the full weight of the responsibility of caring for a dog.

A Puppy is a Responsibility That Will Last Long After the Holidays

While you were deciding to get a dog, you may have been thinking that because of your busy, year-round work schedule the holidays may provide the only window of time-off that you can use to pick out and bring home a new dog. While this seems reasonable, it diminishes the fact that a new puppy will be even more of a time commitment after it comes home. At the bare minimum, most puppies will need to go out every 3-4 hours when they start housetraining and many require three meals a day (including lunch) to feed their growing bodies. On top of that, they’ll need time for supervised play, socialization, grooming and basic manners and obedience training.  

For many people, the family budget can be tight most of the year until the holidays when some will receive a little year-end bonus or others may have money stashed away for a few Christmas presents.  Though it is tempting to use these limited funds to buy a dog, unfortunately, the on-going financial requirements (i.e. vet bills, food, grooming, dog-walkers, toys, accessories, etc.) of owning a dog far outweigh that initial cost. Having a tight family budget should not preclude you from the joy of owning a dog, but it is important to make a plan for all of the expenses involved—not just the initial purchase.

Consider Rescuing in January Instead

Lastly, if you rush the process to make sure there is a live puppy under the tree on Christmas morning, you can risk ending up with a dog that, for lack of a better term, just isn’t the right fit for your family. Anything from choosing a breed that has overwhelming activity or training requirements to not understanding the financial impact of a new dog could quickly put you on a path to reconsidering your decision. Over the last 3 years in NYC, 40% of dogs that entered the system were not strays, but rather owner-relinquished animals. In many of these cases, people simply realized they were not ready for a dog, ended up with a breed that was too much work or rushed through the process by working with a non-reputable source that did not care to have a return procedure. It is worth noting here that all reputable breeders will demand (and even put in writing) that if you cannot keep a dog for any reason, it must come back to them. Without any other option, these owners decide to drop their dog off at a local shelter hoping their animal will find a better life with someone else. While this cycle is heartbreaking, two things can help ease the burden. First, do not rush to get a dog by a certain date (i.e. Christmas, Birthday, etc.), and second, remember there are great, healthy, ready-to-love you animals of all ages and breeds at your local shelter!  You can even take the process a step further—after you give your kids the gift of all the dog things, sit down and have a conversation with them about rescuing a dog versus getting a puppy and empower them by including them in the decision of where you will find your next pet.

While waiting till January means giving up an opportunity to have a video on Instagram Stories of your kids finding a dog under the tree, I promise that the squeals of delight as they unwrap a tiny collar, leash and chew toys will be no less enthusiastic. Even better, you can follow that story up with part two from your trip to the breeder or rescue on the day you bring home your new best friend!

[realtalk-princeton]

I'm trying to add PawPoints to my Tiger Card but the website says it doesn't recognize my PUID (it asks for PUID + last 2 digits of SS#). I called the Service Point office, but no one answered, and it went to voicemail - I'll try to call again later this week. Is this system working (or maybe not) or am I doing something wrong with my login?

readers?

[pawpointer]

5 Allergy-Friendly Breeds You Probably Haven’t Heard Of (and One You Definitely Have)!

We may be the millennial generation, but if we were going off our dog preferences, we’d probably be the doodle generation. Rover.com reports Goldendoodles and Labradoodles to be the fastest growing “breeds” in at least 12 states—and we wonder what the numbers would look like if their numbers were combined or even added to the ever-expanding list of poodle-mixed dogs (i.e. Cock-a-poos, Yorkie-Poos, Malti-Poos, etc).

While the reasons for this may be wide-ranging, there is one that seems to stand above the rest: they are said to be very allergy friendly!  From what we’ve read, the jury is still out on that last claim, so we’re highlighting some of our favorite allergy-friendly breeds that you may not have considered and why we love them so much!

Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Personality: friendly, happy, devoted and lively

Grooming/Coat: non-shedding coat is soft, silky and a little wavy

Daily Activity Requirements: very adaptable to many environments (apartment living, suburbs, country etc.) but still needs a good amount of daily activity and play

Family Friendly: medium size dog that is hardy and very good with kids

Other: intelligent and trainable but can have a stubborn "terrier" streak       

Coton de Tulear

Personality: bright, charming, intelligent & easily trained

Grooming/Coat Type: hair instead of fur and is non-shedding which can be kept in "puppy cut" for easier maintenance

Daily Activity Requirements: exercise needs can be met with daily walks and casual playtime (which they love!)

Family Friendly: gets along well with other dogs, pets, and children

Other: generally healthy, known to live well into their teens (14-16 years)

Brussels Griffon

Personality: alert, curious, loyal, intelligent, sensitive

Grooming/Coat Type: rough coat variety has a non-shedding double coat comprised of hair (instead of fur) which is best maintained by hand-stripping (link to hand-strip article)

Daily Activity Requirements: enjoy daily walks but exercise requirements can be met with inside play

Family Friendly: love their owners (but don’t do well with a lot of alone time)

Other: studier, spunkier and more playful than the prototypical lap dog stereotype of a toy breed

Portuguese Water Dog

Personality: friendly, loving, independent, trainable, athletic

Grooming/Coat Type: very low-shedding poodle like coat that is either wavy or curly

Daily Activity Requirements: working breed that needs daily physical and mental stimulation (60+ min of vigorous play or exercise)

Family Friendly: good with kids and bonds very closely with their owner (sometimes they will choose one person as their “alpha”)

Other: famously chosen by the Obama’s to be the official White House dogs because of their temperament and allergy-friendly coat

Norwich Terrier

Personality: alert, curious, gregarious, affectionate

Grooming/Coat Type: they have a low-shedding wire hair coat that requires very little effort between grooming/hand-strip appointments and is nearly weatherproof as it naturally repels dirt and water (this characteristic also cuts down on the "dog smell")

Daily Activity Requirements: they like to play, but also love being with their owners during down time

Family Friendly: great with children and bonds closely with their family

Other: originally bred to hunt small vermin and rodents but because of their friendly nature they became a popular companion animal

Poodle (Standard, Miniature & Toy)

Personality: intelligent, athletic, elegant and proud

Grooming/Coat Type: famous for their non-shedding curly hair coat that is welcome relief for allergy sufferers

Daily Activity Requirements: reputation as a fancy show dog but in reality, they are athletes and will join for daily walking, jogging, hiking and even swimming!

Family Friendly: standard and miniature poodles are said to be the most family friendly, supervision is recommended with toy poodles as young children could inadvertently play too rough and accidentally injure the dogs

Other:  very trainable due to their eagerness to please—excelling in obedience and agility

[pawpointer]

Service Dogs vs. Emotional Support Animals: What You Need to Know

Have you noticed a real increase in service dogs lately? While it may seem like there are “dogs in vests” everywhere—on flights, at shopping centers, and at the dog park—it may not be quite as it seems.  According to Google, while the search term “service dogs” has trended up only slightly in the past year, interest in Emotional Support Dogs (and related terms) has nearly doubled!

Recognizing that part of this uptick may be driven by those trying to differentiate between the two, we are dedicating this post to giving you a quick-and-dirty on Service Dogs vs. Emotional Support Animals. Namely, what are they? How are the rules different? And, what do you need to know if you think you could benefit from having a service or support animal.

What is the difference between a Service Dog and an Emotional Support Animal?

Both are medically prescribed animals that can help someone with one or more disabilities, so the difference lies in what kind of help the dog is providing.

Service dogs generally aid those who are blind, deaf, restricted to a wheelchair or suffering from seizure disorders, and they are specially trained to recognize and/or assist during medical events as well as perform everyday tasks.

On the other hand, emotional support animals (or ESAs) do not require special training and are prescribed by a licensed therapist, psychiatrist or psychologist as part of a larger treatment plan for an emotional or psychological disability. Their role is to help mitigate symptoms and comfort individuals that suffer from a range of disorders including Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD), Stress Disorder, Depressive Disorder, Panic/Anxiety Disorders, Personality Disorders, Phobias, etc.

Are the rules the same for each?

No. The rules for service dogs appear in the Americans with Disabilities Act and are relatively straightforward—medical service dogs can accompany owners with disabilities in all places where members of the public are allowed to go.  

The distinction of an Emotional Support Animal came into being with the broader definition of a “service animal” as defined by the Air Carrier Access Act and the Fair Housing Act.  The Air Carrier Access Act allows ESAs to accompany their owners on airplanes free of charge and exempts them from certain in-cabin pet policies (i.e. size limitations or the requirement that an animal must remain under the seat for the duration of the flight).  The Fair Housing Act protects those with ESAs from being denied housing or from having to pay additional fees for their medically prescribed support animal. These two laws make up the only formal legal protection for ESAs, so you will still need to heed the “no pet policies” in your favorite stores, restaurants or travel destinations and be mindful of public areas with “no pet” signage.

What do you need to know if you think you can benefit from a service or support animal?

The question we have heard quite a bit recently is “how do I make my dog an official emotional support animal?” While there are new resources popping up to help clarify the process (and provide a way to obtain a diagnosis and doctor letter through a paid online service), our recommendation is to start the conversation with your doctor first. Ideally, this would be a licensed therapist, psychologist or psychiatrist, but even your general family doctor will have the resources to point you in the right direction.  

Once your doctor has deemed an animal a necessary part of your treatment plan, you will need to obtain a letter from your doctor stating as such to submit to air carriers or housing authorities when applying for ESA protections--it’s as easy as that! 

Do you or does someone you know benefit from the support of a service dog or emotional support animal? We love hearing stories about the bond between owners and their pups--so leave ‘em in the comments!

[pawpointer]

Traveling with Dogs #3: Road Tips for Road Trips

In our last two posts, we covered preparing for your trip and making your pup comfortable on a long plane ride, so now we’re hitting the road just in time for the 4th of July weekend! Below are our five favorite tips for an easy and safe car ride with your pup.

1. Crate your dog in a crash-test certified carrier and secure the carrier to the seat

Last week we spoke all about choosing a comfortable pet carrier that fits easily under the seat in front of you, but those may not be the best choice in the car. Your best bet for the open road is a sturdy crate that has been crash test certified and can be easily secured to the seat or interior of the car.

2. Plan your route and pit stops ahead of time so you can find places that allow dogs so they won’t be left unattended in the car

Planning your pit stops ahead of time will cut down on the stress that sets in several hours into your drive when you realize your pup may need to relieve himself soon.  Using Google Map’s street view tool, we like to look for spots that have a patch of grass or soft ground out of the way of cars where we can safely walk our pups on the leash for a few minutes before jumping back in the car.  

3. Turn on child safety locks for windows and doors

If you’re on shorter trips so you’ve chosen to forgo the crate (which we still don’t recommend, but alas we know it will still happen), make sure to engage child safety locks on the windows and doors. This is particularly important for traveling with larger breeds as their heavier paws can accidentally trigger windows to roll down and quickly create an unsafe situation.

4. Bring a bowl and a water bottle or pack ice cubes.

We’ve covered the ice-cube tip before in previous posts, but it’s one of our favorites, so we’ve decided to bring it back. Staying hydrated is always important and can easily be accomplished with a bowl and water bottle, but if you are worried about accidents or have a busier breed that likes to have something to work on—pack a cup of ice cubes (or pick one up) for your dog to lick. It will keep him hydrated without overdoing his water intake (potentially leading to an in-flight accident) while also keeping him entertained for a few minutes!

5. Check the road laws where you’ll be traveling

You may be surprised to find out there are pet-specific violations that can land you with a fine (like in NJ where you could end up with a fine of $1000 for transporting a pet in any way that a police officer deems to be incorrect). The national DMV website has an excellent resource for traveling safely with a pet.

Have you heard any other tips we haven’t covered yet? Share them with us in the comments!

[pawpointer]

Traveling with Dogs #2: Carry-On Canines

In many ways, air travel with your dog has become much easier.  Airlines have streamlined their pet policies, most major airports have created pet-relief stations, and last January, New York City’s JFK airport even announced the installation of “ARK”, a dedicated animal terminal catering to all critters big and small. However, anyone who has packed up their pup for his or her first big airplane ride will tell you getting from A to B can still be a hassle, so with that in mind, we are bringing you our 5 favorite tips for a smooth flight:

1. Check the airline’s pet policy and ask for the specific under-the-seat dimensions on your aircraft

Unless your dog is a doctor prescribed emotional support animal or service dog, he or she will most likely be required to remain in its carrier under the seat in front of you for the entire flight. Those who fly regularly know that the space under the seat cannot fit much more than a tote or small bag and that space can vary based on your specific aircraft. A good rule of thumb is that the bag should be no more than 10 inches high and less than 20 inches long (this usually accommodates dogs that are about 15 pounds or less), but if your carrier's dimensions are on the line, call the airlines for your aircraft’s specific under-the-seat dimensions to avoid any onboard surprises.

2. Use a carrier that is familiar to your dog

To reduce travel anxiety for your dog, always use a familiar and comfortable carrier.  Dogs are den animals, so unlike most humans, they tend to feel safe in confined spaces—especially ones that that smell like home or ones that they’ve used for travel since they were a small pup.

3. Line your travel carrier with special moisture wicking blankets and bring wee pads

Travel can be stressful which may increase the likelihood your dog will have an accident (even if your dog is firmly house-broken), or you may find yourself unexpectedly delayed and unable to get to a pet relief area.  Even if it’s not ideal for your dog to relieve himself anywhere other than a nice patch of grass, it’s better than leaving him in a desperate situation. Lining your carrier with special moisture wicking pads like these are great because they keep your pet clean and dry and are easily removed for clean-up.

4. Ask for a cup of ice on board

Request a cup of ice from the flight attendant for your dog to lick.  It will keep him hydrated without overdoing his water intake (potentially leading to an in-flight accident) while also keeping him entertained for a few minutes.

5. Bring a blanket or jacket especially if your dog is sensitive to the cold

   Airlines have been known to crank up the A.C. which may cause extra distress for your pup, so have a blanket or jacket handy in case the cabin temperature is on the chilly side.  Bonus: some dogs burrow for emotional comfort as well as physical comfort, so having an extra layer of a soft blanket to swaddle him may be just the ticket to help your pup settle in for a long relaxing in-flight nap.

[pawpointer]

Traveling with Dogs #1: 5 Tips for Prepping and Packing your Pup!

The summer season is upon us which means many of us are looking forward to sneaking in a few long weekends to visit friends and family or get a little extra R&R, but what would a vacation be without your best friend in tow? 

Traveling with a dog can be tricky at times, so we’re rounding up some of the best tips we’ve heard to help make the ‘getting there’ a little easier. In our first post, we’ll be helping you get prepped and packed.  Scroll down for our tips on what to do before you leave:

1. Make a packing list (or use this one for a good starting place!)

You probably have your own suitcase routine down to a science, but there are a few extra things your dog will need that you may not realize until it is too late.  Having a thorough packing list will help keep you organized and cut down on the stress of having to find pet supplies in a remote or unfamiliar area

2. If you are using a new carrier, leave it out for 2-3 weeks for your dog to get used to it ahead of time

Leave the travel crate or Sherpa bag out for him to sniff, explore and maybe even rest in ahead of time. This should help reduce fear and anxiety for your dog on travel day because the crate will smell familiar and feel safe to him.

3. Make sure your dog is up to date on vaccinations and get a copy of your dog’s records (vaccination records or health certificate) from your vet

Let your vet know where you are planning to travel, because they may recommend extra medication you don’t regularly give to your pup. Tick protection may not be vitally important on the streets of NYC, but they will be a big problem if you are planning a trip to the shore on Long Island

4. Feed your pet a light meal several hours ahead of your departure

Pets can get motion sickness just like humans, so help the chances your dog will be more comfortable by feeding your pet a lighter than normal meal 2-4 hours before you leave.  He’ll be more comfortable if he’s had a chance to digest, and doesn’t have to travel on an empty stomach.  It can also be a good idea to pack ice cubes for the trip because they keep your pet hydrated while limiting their water intake.  It’s also a great way to keep them entertained or take their mind off of loud noises or disruptions if need be.

5. Long walk on the day of your trip

Make sure your dog gets a nice long walk the morning you leave. Not only will this give him ample time to relieve himself, but more importantly, the exercise will calm him down by helping him get out excess energy.  If you’re lucky, your dog may even sleep through most of his time in transit!

Stay tuned, in the next post we’ll be taking to the skies with our tips for keeping your pup safe and happy on the plane!

[pawpointer]

Dogs and “People” Food: What you can and cannot share with Fido

While most recommend feeding your dog his own food, even when you are following the rules, your pup may occasionally get a hold of something that was meant for your table and not his bowl.  By now, whether or not you own a dog, the majority of people have heard that chocolate is lethally toxic to our canine companions, but even so, it’s still the number one cause of toxic poisoning in dogs and has become even more dangerous in recent years.  Read below to find out why and learn about the other dangers lurking on our table to avoid 

(Pro tip: most of the time when people search for this info it’s after something has happened—yikes!—bookmark this page now for an easy, proactive reference, but if you are in the middle of the emergency, call your vet or poison control helpline ASAP!)

Foods that are toxic and dangerous to dogs:

Chocolate

Causes diarrhea, vomiting, abnormal heartbeat, kidney failure and death

Symptoms may not appear until 6 to 12 hours after ingestion

It’s still the most common cause of toxic poisoning in dogs and is now more serious because dark chocolate and extra dark chocolate (60-80% cocoa), which contain higher concentrations of the chemical theobromine, have become increasingly popular due to its health benefits for people

Even 1 oz. of extra dark chocolate can constitute a serious emergency for a smaller dog. Use this tool to help you determine how serious your chocolate emergency is by simply plugging in your dog’s weight and the type and amount of chocolate consumed: http://www.petmd.com/dog/chocolate-toxicity

Xylitol (Artificial Sweetener)

Causes low blood sugar, liver failure, seizures and death

Symptoms appear 30 minutes to 12 hours after ingestion

The biggest danger with this food is that you may not even know a product contains the artificial sweetener without checking the ingredient list. To save you time, here’s a comprehensive list of the brands and products that contain xylitol (including Orbit gum!) so you aren’t left second guessing during a critical emergency: http://www.preventivevet.com/xylitol-products-toxic-for-dogs

Grapes (and raisins)

Causes kidney failure and death

Symptoms appear after the toxin has been fully digested so it may not appear for up to two hours

This risk was only recently discovered because it seems that not all dogs are susceptible, but for those that are it does not matter how much is ingested—even a small amount can cause a major, life-threatening reaction

Onions (and Garlic, Leeks and Chives – all plants in the “Allium” family)

Causes anemia and death

Signs of anemia are lethargy, weakness, increased heart rate, red or brown urine, pale or bluish gums, or hypersalivation

The symptoms can be delayed up to 72 hours, but do not wait till symptoms appear to call your vet—dogs can make a full recovery with immediate and aggressive treatment

Cooking these foods DOES NOT lower the risk or concentration of the toxin, dogs can also become sick from foods that contain onion and garlic as a mere flavoring ingredient or in powder form (like chicken seasoning or a soup), and like many of the foods on this list, the smaller the dog, the smaller the amount that will cause a deadly reaction

Salt

Causes vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, fever, seizures and even death

Most people wouldn’t give their dogs plain salt, but they may not think about the salt used to season everyday foods like popcorn or chicken (which are both generally considered safe for dogs)

If you live somewhere that gets icy in the winter, watch that your dogs are not licking salt off the street or tending to burning paws from treated sidewalks by licking themselves clean (using protective footwear or mushers wax before going out and wiping paws clean when you get home is a great way to minimize this danger!)

Fruit pits or seeds

Peach and plum pits and apple seeds contain cyanide –deadly to humans and dogs alike!

Macadamia Nuts

Causes muscle shakes, vomiting, fever, and weakness in the back legs

Macadamia nuts are often included in foods with chocolate which doubles the danger

Almonds are also dangerous for dogs.  While they may not be deadly, they are not easily digested which can lead to gastric intestinal distress, choking and intestinal obstruction (which may require surgery to properly treat)

Avocados

Contain persin which causes upset stomach, breathing difficulties and even death

The highest concentration of persin is found in the leaves of the plant, but can also be present in the pit, skin and fruit

The good news is that dogs have a higher tolerance for persin than other animals, but if you suspect your dog has accidentally ingested avocado, it’s still a good idea to call your vet and monitor his symptoms

Alcohol

Causes vomiting, diarrhea, coordination problems, breathing problems, coma and death

Unsurprisingly, alcohol has the same effect on dogs as people but a 20-lb dog will feel the effects of alcohol poisoning much more quickly than a 150-lb human

This same warning also applies to caffeine!

Unlike people, dogs do not need or crave variety in their meals each day and will happily eat the same thing day in and day out. They thrive on a consistent routine which includes their meal plan and feeding schedule.  We recommend working with your veterinarian to find a meal that gives your pup all his daily nutrients and will set him up to have a healthy, active lifestyle. However, there might be an occasion where it is appropriate and maybe even a good idea to feed your dog “people food” as a treat during training exercises or for the nutrients that whole, unprocessed foods provide.

Below is a list of dog-safe people food:

Peanut Butter

Good source of protein and essential fats and vitamins

Serve only raw or naturally sweetened because artificial sweeteners are very toxic to dogs

Unseasoned Cooked Chicken (or Turkey)

Great source of protein that is naturally low-fat

Easily digestible and can be mixed with rice for dogs with irregular or irritable bowel symptoms

Be careful to remove meat from the bones as cooked chicken bones can easily splinter and become a choking hazard

Cheese

Good source of calcium and dogs will love this as a treat but should be only given as that and never a meal replacement as cheese has a very high-fat content

But the earlier warning about lactose intolerance still applies—so monitor your pet and be aware of signs of discomfort

Carrots

Help clean dogs’ teeth as they chew

High in fiber, vitamin A and naturally low-calorie

Salmon

Good source of omega 3 which promotes a healthy, shiny coat and supports immune systems

Pumpkin

Great for an upset stomach because it has both a high water content and high fiber content

A great source for beta-carotene which converts to vitamin A when digested

You can prepare a fresh pumpkin or serve the canned variety (we like the latter because it’s easily mixed into your dog’s regular meal for a little extra digestion help—make sure its 100% pumpkin and not pumpkin pie filling which is loaded with sugar and spices that may not be dog-friendly)

Cooked Eggs

Boiled or cooked eggs are a great source of protein, essential amino acids, and fatty acids

They are famously easy on the stomach and can be a good thing to feed your dog when he’s not feeling well

Green Beans

Low calorie and high in fiber, iron and many other essential vitamins and minerals

Apple Slices (but remember the seeds & core contain cyanide)

Apple slices are high in fiber, vitamin A and vitamin C with the added bonus that the texture of the apple can help clean residue off their teeth and freshen their breath

Make sure to only feed slices because (as we mentioned above) the core and seeds contain cyanide and are highly toxic

If you think your dog has eaten something harmful, do not wait to seek treatment.  

Call your veterinarian and follow their instructions, or contact a 24-hour poison control helpline—info below:

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

888-426-4435

https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

Pet Poison Helpline

855-764-7661

http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/

[pawpointer]

PawPointer Spotlight on: The Brittany!

The versatile Brittany is a spirited, happy, eager to please, intelligent and agile dog. Their disposition combined with a natural athletic ability makes this breed a great hunting companion as well as a loving and loyal family pet. Not only are they extremely competitive in field trials, but they are also prized for their handsome look. By 2006, the Brittany earned the distinction of having more American dual championships, meaning titles in both field competition and conformation, than any other breed as noted by the American Brittany Club. To date, over 600 Brittanys have achieved this honor!

The Brittany is thought to have been first bred in the mid-1800s with origins in the Brittany region of France. Up until the 1980s, the breed was known as the Brittany Spaniel because of its breed origin—they were a descendent of French spaniels that were then crossed with English setters. However, the “spaniel” portion of their name was dropped when it was observed that the dog’s behavior was much more akin to Pointers and other traditional “gun dog” breeds.

According to the breed’s standard, the Brittany is a medium sized, compact and leggy dog with a temperament that is happy and alert, and neither mean nor shy. They have a soft, feathery coat that can be either orange & white or liver & white; in general, the coat can be either a clear or roan pattern. On the grooming front, they are relatively low maintenance as their coats naturally repel dirt and water. Only weekly brushing is required to keep the coat in top condition. When full-grown, they are about 30-40 pounds and stand between 18-20” at the shoulders. This sporting breed loves to be outside and is generally adaptable to both warm and cool climates. Brittanys are incredibly loyal and enjoy socializing with their family. Their sweet, friendly nature and medium size make the Brittany a good choice for active families with young children.  

The Brittany was bred to spend all day in the field, and thrive when given at least an hour of vigorous exercise each day. Furthermore, most Brittanys are able to jump well over four feet, so it is strongly recommended that their homes have large yards with high fencing for daily play. In the field, they can be trained to hunt, point, flush and retrieve game. They enjoy accompanying their owners on full-day adventures and are confident partners on land and in the water. Brittanys like to work and their intelligence and eagerness to please make them generally easy to train. As with any other active breed, when bored or under-exercised, the Brittany will become restless and find other ways to expend their energy (like excessively barking and/or chewing).

The breed is generally healthy, and on average will have a lifespan of 12-13 years.  The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals recommends that all breeding dogs be tested for Hip Dysplasia and have their eyes checked by a board certified ACVO Ophthalmologist. As always, the results of these tests submitted to the OFA can be found on their website here.

[pawpointer]

PawPointer Spotlight on: The Rhodesian Ridgeback!

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a unique breed that is so named for a strip of hair growing in the opposite direction along the top of his back from the tail forward to his head which forms the appearance of a ridge atop his spine. Sometimes referred to as the “Lion Hound” for their large game hunting roots in Southern Africa, they are said to be bred out of many large breeds, hounds and terriers (including but not limited to Great Danes, Bloodhounds, Greyhounds, and mastiffs as well as the “half-wild Hottentot”) which created superior hunting dogs—athletic and agile with keen senses, a protective nature, and a loyal devotion to their owners. The breed is a relative newcomer to the scene as the first standard wasn’t drafted until the 20th century, in 1922, and later became officially recognized in the United States by the AKC in 1955.

Because the Rhodesian Ridgeback is instilled with a protective nature, it does not need to be further trained as a guard dog, but rather, most recommend lots of early socialization and obedience training to reinforce good behavior in a young pup. With early, positive training, this dog makes a great family pet, and can even make an excellent therapy dog! It’s been reported that many people find petting Ridgebacks along the spine in the unique direction (back to front) to be very calming and relaxing.

They come in nine colors which appear on a spectrum from light wheaten to red wheaten with various nose and coat color combinations. However, it’s worth noting that to the average person all the colors generally appear as shades of light to dark warm, reddish brown. Any puppy advertised as black and tan, blue, or any other color outside of the standard, should be a red flag to buyers that the puppy was not properly bred and could likely present other unforeseen health and temperament issues.

A full grown Ridgeback will stand 24-27” high and can weigh around 70-85 pounds when kept in shape.  With such a large mass, this large breed can be overpowering when engaged in rowdier play. Take care to closely supervise young children during playtime, or consider waiting till children are a little older before adding one to the family.

Homes that can provide lots of exercise and playtime tend to be the most successful for this breed. They require at least an hour of vigorous exercise a day as well as the mental stimulation that games and training provide. Ridgebacks are described as independent, intelligent and willfully disobedient, but have a strong desire to please and utter devotion to their family and owners. Harnessing their eagerness to make you happy combined with their incredible athleticism also makes them highly competitive in agility and lure coursing arenas! As such it should come as no surprise that these dogs have become favorites of the professional athlete community with Carl Lewis, Blake Griffin and Tim Tebow all choosing the agile hound to be their canine companion.

The following pros and cons of life with a Ridgeback were originally compiled by the Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue organization, and provide a great, concise summation of the benefits and drawbacks of owning a Ridgeback. For further reading, you can see the full article here: http://www.ridgebackrescue.org/breedinfo/RRCUS_right_dog_for_your_family.html.

What are the good points of owning a Ridgeback?

Ridgebacks have a short coat, don't shed much and are practically odor free -- great for hot climates.

They are quite discriminating in who or what they bark at...you should ALWAYS go check it out.

They are not fussy eaters and have virtually "cast-iron" digestive systems.

They love living with people and are generally quiet in the house.

Ridgebacks are intelligent and want to please their owner.

Ridgebacks are easily house-trained.

And, of course, they are the most handsome of dogs!

What are the drawbacks?

As puppies they have surgical -- knife sharp teeth and the jaw power of a Doberman Pinscher...they should never be allowed to play roughly with humans of any age. They can do major damage to coffee tables, shoes and anything else they can find to chomp on. Crate training is a must to protect home furnishings while you are not at home. As     juveniles, if left unattended, they can cause your house to self-destruct...at least, it may appear that way! If left in the yard, they will find things to chew on that you may not even know you own until it ceases working. A bored Ridgeback is a major disaster waiting to happen.

They are capable of digging ranch-sized holes, biting the limbs off shrubs and ripping up small trees People who love to garden must contend with the fact that their backyards will belong to the dog!

They are not fussy eaters and have cast-iron stomachs - and you thought this was a good thing -- NOT! It also means they will attempt to eat anything that doesn't eat them first. They are master counter-surfers...nothing is spared and they are fast. Ridgeback owners have a tendency to overfeed their dogs, causing gas - not the most pleasant aspect of dog ownership. Remember, a Ridgeback always thinks it’s     hungry! You have to feed on schedule and stick to your plan.

Ridgebacks are "people" dogs, which means they should be treated as family and not made to live solely alone in the yard, otherwise, you wind up with a big, powerful, pushy creature of your making! An adult RIDGEBACK can clear a five foot fence if they want to. A bored dog is going to look for something to do, even if that means outside your yard. No one wants to live next door to someone who lets their dog out to eliminate on the neighbors’ yard, whose dog gets out and kills cats or scares the walkers, joggers and bike riders.

Ridgebacks grow to be big dogs and must attended obedience classes with you so he won't become a "bad apple" and make an ugly impression of the breed on anyone. Learning to walk on a loose lead at an early age is essential – nobody should be drug around by a big

Ridgebacks are intelligent…this too, has been said -- what is means is they are fully capable of training you before you can train them. They are quite clever and can be willfully disobedient. The earlier the obedience classes the better. We can’t say this enough - A bored Ridgeback can be quite destructive and may develop bad habits of     chewing, escaping crate and fencing, barking out of boredom and generally making a pest of themselves. It is essential that you have the time to put in with them, which can be as simple as having them in the house with you when you are home or spending time making sure they get a good amount of exercise…whether outside hiking, training, running or walking with them in safe areas.

Ridgebacks must be introduced to cats and even so, may be aggressive towards strange felines.

In addition to the information quoted above, the rescue organization has compiled several other useful articles about responsible Ridgeback ownership which can be found on this main page:

http://www.ridgebackrescue.org/things_to_know_about_ridgebacks.html.

And, if this is the dog for you, head over to our main site, PawPointer.com, and introduce yourself to Gail James, of Regal Rhodesian Ridgebacks, to learn first-hand from an amazing breeder about life with a Rhodesian Ridgeback!

[pawpointer]

The Problem with Puppy Brokering Sites

I know that this is not the first post ever written about websites brokering puppies for so called “reputable”, yet un-identified and un-knowable breeders.  What compelled me to write this post is not that these sites exist in the first place, but that they are becoming ever-wise in the ways that they disguise themselves as being anything but what they are, a front for a puppy-mill.  As someone who has created a company whose mission is to educate people on how to find a great, reputable breeder and in the process eliminate the need for these deceptive online pet shops, I felt it was necessary to add my thoughts on who they are, what they’ll say to gain your trust, and why PawPointer is different.

Why You Won’t Find Reputable Breeders on Third Party “Puppy-Brokering” Sites

To the untrained eye, sites touting puppies for sale from reputable breeders seems like a great option for those who feel they’ve done their research, prepared themselves and are finally ready to bring home a new puppy, tomorrow. There are hundreds of puppy profiles, ripe for the picking, and shipped directly to you. Sites like puppyspot.com (formerly purebredbreeders.com) and greenfieldpuppies.com have streamlined their websites for ease of use and are rife with profiles and pictures of puppy candidates promised to be your new best friend, but what aren’t you seeing on these profiles? Among other things, you won’t see contact info or even a name for the breeder. You won’t see a variety of pictures that give you a clear picture of the everyday living conditions of the dog (and in many cases you won’t see pictures of the puppies at home with mom). You won’t see a kennel name that can be used to easily search for parents’ OFA health evaluations (more on that later). Without this information, it’s hard to confirm if your dog is not coming from a puppy mill. You can read about the conditions you might find at one such puppy mill in a recent Rolling Stones article here, http://www.rollingstone.com/culture/features/the-dog-factory-inside-the-sickening-world-of-puppy-mills-w457673.

Another good common sense check is this: would a reputable breeder who loves and cares for each life they bring into this world and who has an absolute obligation to the dog for the life of the animal ever sell a puppy to someone they do not know? No! Just because it’s time to take your new dog home, does not mean it’s the end of the relationship with your breeder. They will be invested in the health of your dog, they’ll want to know how he’s doing, and if you’ve noticed any health or temperament issues (as this info would absolutely guide further decisions in their breeding program). The bottom line is that anyone who will sell a puppy to a family or person without having done their own diligence of the home buying one of their dogs (which is a near impossibility for them when they are handing over the reins to a puppy broker and shipping their dogs sight-unseen to a new family on the other side of the country) is very likely not a reputable breeder.

“Vet Checked Puppies” vs. OFA and Specialty Club Recommended Health Screens and DNA Tests

One of the most common assurances of health that you will see on these sites is that the puppies are “vet checked.” Sounds good, right? There are a few reasons why this is not the stamp of approval you should be looking for when choosing a breeder.  Most major hereditary issues do not present themselves right away and won’t be present at your first 8-week veterinarian appointment. Some issues can take several years to develop and there will be little to no signs of a dog’s likelihood of developing these conditions that a vet will detect at a routine check-up. This leads us to the next reason this phrase means essentially nothing to guarantee the health of your new dog.  The most important health screens (i.e. those that help the breeder screen for major hereditary issues) are for the sire and dam, not the puppy, and are done prior to breeding.  These tests allow breeders to test for everything from the soundness of their dog’s hips and elbows to whether or not they carry a gene that will increase the likelihood of a dog developing serious genetic disorders like Von Willebrand’s disease (an inherited bleeding disorder) or Degenerative Myelopathy (a disease that compromises the spinal cord). The prescribed tests vary by breed but both the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA.org) and the AKC parent clubs for each breed list the conditions showing up within the breed and which tests are important to a breeders program.  These resources are a great place to start a conversation with your breeder about what issues they’ve encountered and how testing has factored into their breeding program over the years. Bonus, as mentioned above, OFA.org makes the results of these tests available free to the public and they can be easily searched with as little information as the breed and part of the name of the dog (i.e. the breeding dog’s individual name and/or kennel name). Finally, the mere assurance that a dog is “vet checked” says nothing of the breeder’s vaccination records or that they are proactively checking for and treating any parasites that a young pup may have contracted. You’ll want to know that both are being done, and you’ll want to receive have a copy of these veterinarian records in hand so that you and your own veterinarian can decide the best course of care for your young puppy.

“Champion Bloodlines” vs. Active Competition in the Show Ring and out in the field

Many sites or breeders will advertise that their puppies come from “Champion Bloodlines”.  On the surface, this statement would seem to be a validation of the breeder’s commitment to only breeding dogs that have exceptional conformation to the standard or have the temperament and athleticism necessary to compete successfully in field, agility, and or/ obedience events. But there is a danger lurking among this clever wording that may not be exactly what you expect. AKC pedigrees detail at least five generations for each dog, that’s a record of 62 dogs of which only one may have been a conformation or competition ring champion.  To the average dog buyer, at first blush, you may not have a preference towards “champion lines” or non-champion-lined dogs. But you should care, and here’s why.  Breeders who spend their time competing in conformation, obedience, agility, field trials, or a whole host of other dog events, are doing so in part because they enjoy the competitive arena, but it also helps to inform breeders decisions when planning a litter. Choosing a “champion-line” dog means you are choosing a puppy from a litter that was bred specifically to pass on great temperaments and sound structure.  Essentially, you are choosing a litter that was meant to improve upon and move ever closer to the prescribed standard of that breed.  Great breeders won’t just have one champion among the 62 dogs that make up a puppy’s parentage, ideally all breeding dogs should have a title and should be proven to be worthy of passing on their genes to the next generation of the breed.  

New Sites Treat the Process of Finding a Puppy Like Using a Dating App

What is troubling about the newest crop of sights popping up seems to be their perspective on matching puppies with potential families based on puppy profiles and personality algorithms. Following almost the same set up as a dating site, someone looking for a dog becomes excited about the puppy that they’ve fallen in love with—it’s their match! But there’s a problem with this mindset.  While the puppy will be in your life for the next 10-15 years, the relationship that you should be most concerned with getting right when looking for a dog is your relationship with the breeder. The benefits of choosing a reputable, responsible, high quality breeder go far beyond the health and temperament of your dog. If you find a breeder that you are comfortable with (and who is comfortable with you), the relationship can last a lifetime! They will be there for you if anything happens, if you need advice, if you have a question—they are your 24 hour unconditional support because they care as much about t the health and quality of life of your dog as you do! Some breeders will even organize yearly meet-ups for their “puppy parents” and offer boarding services if you go out of town.  Each breeder will differ on their level of involvement with their puppy parents, so it’s important you take the time to find the right breeder for you! It may sound a little cheesy, but if you prefer to think of the process in the terms of a dating site you should think of the process as dating the breeder, and not the puppy.

What Makes PawPointer Different

Taking each of the points we’ve gone through in this post, you will see that PawPointer is clearly different than other sites that exist today.  PawPointer is not a puppy brokering site.  We are a connection point between you (the dog buyer) and our vetted, reputable breeders. At no point are we responsible for the sale of an individual puppy at the breeder’s request, nor do we masquerade the breeders within our network.  Our goal is to be your best first step in the process of looking for a great breeder, and then you and the breeder are able to start a direct relationship that will hopefully lead to a happy ending of you finding your new best friend!

To learn more, visit http://www.pawpointer.com/guarantee/ 

[realtalk-princeton]

If I have a positive balance on my "student charge" tab on my tigercard account (it says 40-something dollars), does that mean I can use it with my card at the c-store/in frist dining? or can we only use credit card, cash, or pawpoints at those places?

Response from Photar:

the positive balance on your student charge tab of tigercard is indicative of how much you've spent using student charge. you can view what's available in your student balance by checking tigerhub > student financial center > account balance. a negative amount there indicates you have funds available that you can charge (or refund to a different source), where a positive amount would indicate you owe the uni some amount.

student charge works at those places, as well as any other campus dining cafe and labyrinth books (among other things). my approximate rule of thumb is that anywhere you can use pawpoints, you can use student charge EXCEPT the U-Store.

[realtalk-princeton]

New frosh ?’s - not prefrosh any more, woohoo! Are Paw Points essential, nice, or meh? How do most students on unlimited meal plan use them? Can I just use my bank’s Visa debit card around campus? And side ? - does Labyrinth let me bill all book purchases to my student account or do I need to pay on the spot?

Response from Sulpicia:

You can just use real money, nobody uses PawPoints

Response from Alito:

Lol I’d argue pawpoints are useful–at least with budgeting and stuff. Not essential, but I think they’re nice for someone like me at least that doesn’t like having to put charge on their prox to pay later and likes having a prepaid system.