#paintbrush manufacturer

[paintbrushmanufacturer]

paintbrush manufacturer

[weepaintbrush]

Luxury Synthetic Hair 11pcs Makeup Brush

[samiksha30]

Kabawat Brushes: Achieve the Perfect Finish for Every Painting Project

Introduction

Painting is more than just a process; it’s an art that transforms any space, bringing walls to life and making homes feel unique and inviting. Kabawat Brush Company understands this deeply, which is why they focus on providing premium quality paint brushes and rollers that allow every painter—whether a DIY enthusiast or a professional—to achieve that perfect, polished finish.

The Kabawat Advantage: Quality That Lasts

Kabawat Brushes are crafted with durability and ease of application in mind, ensuring every stroke provides a smooth and even finish. These brushes simplify the painting process, making it faster and more enjoyable while delivering professional results. Kabawat Brushes are perfect for both DIY home makeovers and professional projects, helping you achieve flawless coverage and impeccable detail every time.

Transform Any Wall into a Masterpiece with Kabawat Brushes

Kabawat brushes are crafted to bring ease, efficiency, and a flawless touch to every stroke. Whether you’re painting vibrant exteriors or cozy interiors, the brushes from Kabawat are designed to help you achieve a professional look without the hassle. Here’s what makes Kabawat brushes stand out:

Durability: Made from high-quality materials, Kabawat brushes are built to last. Their longevity ensures that you can rely on them for multiple projects, making them a great investment for professionals and hobbyists alike.

Smooth Application: Kabawat’s brushes glide over surfaces effortlessly, creating even, consistent layers of paint that contribute to a professional finish.

Superior Quality Finish: With Kabawat brushes, your finished project will look polished and seamless, showcasing a quality you can see and feel.

Why Choose Kabawat Brushes?

Kabawat Brush Company has built a strong reputation in the market for offering painting tools that combine quality with functionality. Their products are trusted by customers across Mumbai and India, thanks to the company’s commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction. Kabawat brushes and rollers are the perfect tools for anyone aiming for a high-quality finish on their painting projects.

Contact Kabawat Brush Company

Ready to start your next painting project with tools you can trust? Kabawat Brush Company is here to help bring your ideas to life.

Phone: 82096 17061 | 98218 25663

Email: kabawatbrushcompany@gmail.com

Website: Kabawat Brush Company on IndiaMART

Instagram: @kabawatbrush

Transform your space with Kabawat’s top-quality painting tools, and let your walls reflect the true artistry of a perfect finish.

Get in Touch with Kabawat Brush Company Ready to start your next project? Contact Kabawat Brush Company for top-quality painting supplies that professionals and enthusiasts alike trust. For a painting experience marked by quality and satisfaction, choose Kabawat Brushes. Let’s bring your vision to life!

For more information or to request a consultation, visit their website: Kabawat Brushes Company

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[blueiscoool]

Steve Silver stands inside his 5,000-square-foot loft in the Williamsburg neighborhood of Brooklyn, New York. Silver, a painter, moved into the loft in 1979.

A Look Inside New York’s Historic Artist Lofts

The Last of Their Kind.

They used to be printing shops, garment factories and flophouses. Now they’re some of the coolest artist spaces you’ll ever see.

These unique, expansive lofts, rarely seen by the public, are all over New York City.

For decades, they’ve been occupied by painters, sculptors and other artists who moved in when manufacturers started leaving the city in the second half of the 20th century.

“When people think of New York City as a cultural epicenter, these are the artists that they’re envisioning,” said Joshua Charow, a photographer and filmmaker who has spent the past few years documenting the artists and their studios for his book “Loft Law: The Last of New York City’s Original Artist Lofts.”

Artist Claire Ferguson moved into her loft in the city’s Tribeca neighborhood in 1981. At the time, the building in Lower Manhattan had a mix of artists and industrial tenants. “The floor below me was a paintbrush factory,” she told photographer and filmmaker Joshua Charow. “The floor above me put lines on paper before they had offset printing, and they had these huge machines. They had a guillotine that cut through the reams of paper every morning. At 6 a.m., they would turn it on, and it was this noise, aargh!”

JG Thirlwell’s loft in Brooklyn’s Dumbo neighborhood doubles as his home recording studio. “Loft living is not for everyone,” he told Charow. “You’re responsible for everything in here, and not everyone wants a life like that.”

A cat rests inside the Tribeca loft of Ken and Flo Jacobs, experimental filmmakers who moved into the space in 1965. At the time, the monthly rent for the 2,000-square-foot loft was just $70.

For the first half of the 20th century, New York City was a major manufacturing center. Factories were all over, producing everything from ice cream to torpedoes.

But when companies started finding it profitable to move their operations to other parts of the country and the world, many buildings were abandoned. By the 1960s and ‘70s, industrial neighborhoods, including those we now know as SoHo and Tribeca in Lower Manhattan, were largely deserted.

Landlords were desperate to find tenants. A big problem, however, was that the buildings were not zoned for residential use. Many of them didn’t have kitchens or showers, or even electricity or heat.

“The only people that would rent the space were artists,” Charow said. “And that’s because (the buildings) had tall ceilings, so they could make big work. They had big windows to let in lots of light. The spaces were completely raw, in many circumstances.”

Anne Mason sits in front of one of her late husband’s paintings in the loft they lived in together in the Little Italy neighborhood of Lower Manhattan. Frank Mason died in 2009, but his wife preserved his studio and his paintings.

Plants thrive in the natural light of the Midtown loft Bob Petrucci and Ray Bailey call home. It’s on the 16th floor of a building previously used as a necktie factory.

Artists would move into the empty factories and warehouses and make them more livable spaces. It was technically illegal, of course, but everyone was benefiting and the once-abandoned neighborhoods started to thrive again.

By the end of the ’70s, however, loft living had become quite fashionable and some landlords were looking to cash in, pushing out the artists for a wealthier clientele.

The artists pushed back, and in 1982 state lawmakers enacted Article 7-C of the New York Multiple Dwelling Law, which is commonly known as the 1982 Loft Law. This legislation gave protection and rent stabilization to people who had been living in these spaces. It also required landlords to bring the units up to residential code.

When the law was enacted, Charow says in his book, there were tens of thousands of artists living in lofts across the city. Now just a few hundred remain.

Noah Jemison moved to his Williamsburg loft in 1980. He remembers his neighborhood not having as much traffic as it does now. “You could walk down the streets and see nobody,” he told Charow. “It was a place where you could hear yourself think. It was perfect for artists.”

A scan of a 1913 blueprint shows one of the Manhattan buildings Charow photographed. New York City was a major manufacturing center for the first half of the 20th century.

Painter Betsy Kaufman walks inside her Tribeca loft. She uses the front half as her studio. It still has its original wooden floors.

Legislation enacted in 1982 allowed loft residents in New York to establish legal residence and have their living spaces brought up to code. It also stabilized their rent and protected them from eviction.

Charow wanted to document these artists — and their extraordinary lofts — before their numbers dwindled even more. He found a map of the remaining protected buildings and went door to door to see whether their tenants would be willing to share their story with him.

He was often rejected at first. But over time, more doors started to open up as people he met would introduce him to others.

Over the past three years, Charow has photographed 75 artists — 30 of whom are in his book.

“My life has been greatly enriched by meeting some of these artists and learning about their lives and their stories,” Charow said. “It’s had a big impact on just my life, and I can’t imagine how much of an impact this group of people has had on the city as a whole.”

Art created by Carolyn Oberst and Jeff Way adorn the walls of the loft they share in Tribeca. They live on the top two floors of a building they started renting in 1975. “I won’t tell you what it cost, but it was very cheap. We’ll just leave it at that,” Way told Charow. “But that was an incentive to fix it up. It was sweat equity, they called it.”

Ellen Christine makes new hats and restores old ones. She’s one of the last milliners in New York City. “In the 1930s, you could walk down any street, and there would be at least 30 milliners,” she said. “It was just (that) everybody wore hats, you see… So they needed new ones all the time.”

Curtis Mitchell remembers when he first walked into his loft in the Dumbo neighborhood of Brooklyn. The building used to be an ice cream factory. “It looked just like a dream,” he said. “To me, it still is a dream. It’s a fantastic place. Cold as hell in the winter and hot as hell in the summer, but I don’t care.”

One of Charow’s favorite spaces was the Bowery loft of Carmen Cicero, who is now 97 years old but moves with the energy of someone much younger, Charow said. Cicero lives in the loft with his wife, the art historian Mary Abell. Filling the space are hundreds of Cicero’s paintings, some bigger than he is.

“When you dream of what a painter in their loft in New York would be like, it’s Carmen,” Charow said. “And he’s filled with incredible stories. He has such phenomenal stories of his time as an artist here.”

Cicero’s work can be found in the permanent collections of the Whitney Museum of American Art, the Museum of Modern Art and the Smithsonian American Art Museum.

He told Charow the story of how he got his big break: “I had a lot of friends who thought I was a really remarkable painter. One day, they said, ‘Carmen, you’re going to a gallery.’ And they had two guys grab my feet, and two guys grab my arms — they threw me in the car and said, ‘We’re going.’ We went to four or five galleries, and almost every one of them wanted my work — I was lucky.”

Carmen Cicero lives in the Bowery, which has one of the highest concentration of Loft Law-protected buildings in the city. The painter moved to New York in 1971, after his home studio in New Jersey went up in flames

Charow says it has been a thrill to meet these artists and listen to their stories.

“The spaces are beautiful and interesting and historic in their own ways. But without the artists, these spaces lose the significance and the interest to me,” he said. “The artists are the ones who are giving the spaces meaning. Their decades of life and working there is what makes these spaces sort of a sacred thing.”

Through June 29, Charow’s photos are being exhibited at Westwood Gallery NYC, alongside the art of many of the people he photographed.

“I’m really excited that people get to see the paintings and sculptures and and see where they’re made,” he said.

Filmmakers Ken and Flo Jacobs have lived in their top-floor Tribeca loft for more than 50 years. “Once, we staged a live shadow play with a stretched curtain in the loft. Our audience consisted of just two people: Yoko Ono and John Lennon,” Ken told Charow.

Sculptor Marsha Pels lives in what used to be a glass factory in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood.

Even though the book is already published, Charow’s project will continue. After he began sharing his photos and videos, more artists started reaching out to him so that they could tell their story.

He now has a list of artists to photograph over the next few months.

“This isn’t just a thing of New York’s past. This is the present,” Charow said. “You can walk down the street and look at a window and you might see (an artist), and they’re still working and they’re still making their paintings and sculptures.

“I think it’s a beautiful part of our city, that this exists. It took a lot of resilience and ingenuity to stay in these spaces.”

Kimiko Fujimura, a painter, moved from Tokyo to New York City more than 50 years ago. She has lived in this Chinatown loft since 1979. It was the top floor of a former bow-and-ribbon factory.

The Lower Manhattan skyline is seen from a loft in Brooklyn.

Joshua Charow’s book, “Loft Law: The Last of New York City’s Original Artist Lofts,” is published by Damiani Books. The exhibition at Westwood Gallery NYCis taking place through July 13.

Photographs by Joshua Charow. Story by Kyle Almond. Published June 16, 2024

[thehazbins]

Starter for @copaceticjillybean from Marion!

Marion was painting- it was in her meager section of the city. A part that seemed to be a bit more haphazard. Under no one in particular's rule and she had a few souls- enough souls to earn a bit of power of her and have a s small apartment building under her care as well as a shop front. A front for people who wanted a teensy bit of joy in hell. She enjoyed the arts, and sometimes would renew her status as a lawyer if they needed one. Though there wasn't much in the way of court it was more for contract writing. The one part of being a lawyer she could tolerate down here.

However today was not a day she planned on playing contract negotiator and intended to paint. So she was. She was painting hell in a very, very odd color swapped scheme of blues and greens with pops of the odd red. It was a painting just for fun and she mostly just used the place as a studio, so she enjoyed the quiet solace of being alone.

Just when she thought of how much she enjoyed being in the quiet of the shop front section of the building she heard the little bell on the door. She set down her paintbrush, walked over to the counter and placed her doll like arms on the counter.

"How can I help you?" The tone and inclination of what she said was quite pleasant, but also quite manufactured.

[lozislaw]

Sorry if u been asked this before but what brushes do u use? And what app 😭🔥 also ur art is DIVINE 🙏🙏

Oh my gosh thank you, you're so sweet! I can answer all of that in a convoluted little tutorial I shall give now without anyone asking~

I use Autodesk Sketchbook for Windows, as it is free and versatile enough for a digital art babychild like me to adapt. Here's a basic run-through of my work process:

Sketching:

As a self-employed rule, lineart is fucking dead to me and I'll never use it because it'll always show off my shaky hand and blase drawing style as less of a quirk and more of a deficiency. Sketching however is my best friend in the whole world and I'll usually use a thin rough pencil brush (see above) to keep a traditional look about it. I'm oldschool what can I say.

Colouring:

Although for the example work I actually dove right into building tones without adhering to my usual system, I always use the stock paintbrush to fill in the form. Call me a troglodyte because I certainly am one, but hey it gets the job done, and I can always have fun later with the groovier brushes.

Now this is my favourite part, making the form look less like an unevolved slime worm was here, by utilizing the super ultra groovy brushes, like my favourite two shown here (and usually the only two I'll bother with). The Synthetic flat bristle brush I use as a substitute for the blending tool (another one I heavily depend on in the stock brush phase), because it makes the work look less manufactured and more real, like a real life human did it. Typically, I use it for hair and clothes, but sometimes skin too, when I want it looking raw.

And the rake brush! Not a single work of mine will be without it, I'm fully obsessed, and I'll use it wherever I can get away with. It looks fantastic with hair and using it as a soft highlight.

Editing:

Actually I lied, THIS is my favourite phase. Editing baby!

Although a brush isn't involved in this stage I'll mention it anyway to shout out Photopea, which is a free online photoshop substitute with nearly all of the same features, without that hefty pricetag. I use it to enhance or muck around with colours and tones, or sometimes just for ideas. It's goddamn brilliant and I couldn't recommend it enough.

Finalising:

After playing around with values and tones, I can go back to sketchbook and finalise my work, adding anything it needs before I put my pen down and say enough. Sometimes the process is helpful because I can take a break, look back, and see elements I need to fix and improve that I didn't see before, and huzzah! She's complete!

Anywho I hope you found my drabble helpful, and someone please help me find the torrent to procreate for windows because goddamn I wanna try it so fucking bad. But not enough to let the fly out of my wallet, it's currently the only thing in it XD.

[somediyprojects]

DIY Cabinet Makeovers

Project by Max Tielman:

Keeping up with the latest trends in design can often be overwhelming, especially when you’re pinching pennies, your budget too tight for the occasional furniture splurge. Working on a budget, however, doesn’t mean you have to forgo style — especially if you’re feeling crafty. To prove our point, we teamed up with our pals over at Target and completely revamped one of their most simple, flat-packed cabinet designs (retail price: $34.99) in three different popular styles. The best part? Each of these projects are easy enough to be accomplished in less than a day and without breaking the bank. Check out all three styles, plus directions for crafting each look after the jump! —Max

INDUSTRIAL CHIC

Materials

1 Room Essentials 2-Drawer Organizer (White finish)

About 13 feet of copper piping, 3/4 inch diameter (more or less based on desired height)

8 copper 90-degree elbows (3/4 inch diameter)

4 copper T-joints (3/4 inch diameter)

2 2-hole conduit straps (3/4 inch)

8 #10 3/4 inch wood screws (for attaching conduit straps)

Roughly two feet of rope

Power drill with bit to match rope thickness

Painter’s tape

Miter saw with blade made for cutting metal

Phillips screwdriver

1) Assemble cabinet according to manufacturer’s directions. Do not attach drawer pulls.

2) Cut copper piping using miter saw into the following lengths (you may want to adjust these based on the height you need):

8 inches (4 pieces)

21 inches (8 pieces)

19.5 inches (2 pieces)

3) Insert 2 21-inch pipe pieces into the top and bottom of each copper “T” joint.

4) Attach a copper elbow at the end of each 21-inch piece. Connect other side of elbows together with 8-inch pipe pieces. This should leave you with two separate long loop-shaped pieces of piping. These are your table legs.

5) Attach each 19.5 inch piece to the leftover center hold on each “T” joint in order to create a central brace that holds the table legs together (see photograph for reference).

6) Put cabinet on its side (face up) and attach legs to cabinet bottom with metal conduit straps.

7) Cover the screw holes on the drawer fronts with painter’s tape. Drill through each hole using a bit that corresponds with the thickness of your rope. Remove painter’s tape.

8) Cut rope into two evenly-sized pieces. Feed each rope piece into the drilled holes. Adjust size as desired. Affix rope pulls by tying a tight knot on each end on the drawer interior.

9) SAFETY NOTE: Because the cabinets are fairly light weight, you will need to use the wall-mounting attachment that is provided with the cabinet hardware. This prevents the cabinet from tipping over if rattled or opened too quickly. If you’d rather not see this bit of hardware, simply affix it to your cabinet on its underside. Done!

RETRO REVIVAL

Materials

1 Room Essentials 2-Drawer Organizer (White finish)

1 Room Essentials Chesapeake Sketch Window Panel in Yellow

Threshold Jessina Knobs in Aqua

Devine Color Paint in Horizon

4 Waddell Straight Top Plates

4 Waddell 5 1/2 inch Round Tapered Legs

Mod Podge (or similar craft glue, in glossy finish)

Shellac-based primer

Sand Paper

Wood Stain

2 Foam paintbrushes

1 regular paintbrush

X-Acto Knife (or similar craft knife)

Phillips screwdriver

1) Wash and dry curtain panel according to provided washing directions. Iron out any wrinkles with a warm iron.

2) Sand the outward facing surfaces of the cabinet frame (4 sides total).

3) Apply shellac-based primer to outward facing surfaces of cabinet frame and allow to dry. Follow with 2 coats of Devine Color Horizon Paint. Allow to dry.

4) Apply 2 coats of wood stain to tapered legs according to stain manufacturer’s directions. Allow to dry.

5) Sand the front-facing side of the drawer fronts.

6) Lay drawer fronts face-up, parallel to each other.

7) Apply a generous layer of Mod Podge to both drawer fronts.

8) Lay curtain panel fabric face-up on top of drawer fronts. Wipe firmly across drawer surfaces to remove any air bubbles and to secure fabric to drawer fronts.

9) Gently apply layers of Mod Podge on top of the portions of fabric that are covering the drawer fronts. Allow to dry thoroughly.

10) Cut excess fabric away from drawer fronts, leaving about an inch around the edges of the drawer fronts.

11) Flip drawer fronts upside down and gently cut away all remaining excess fabric with your X-Acto blade. In order to protect your floors or work surface, use the disassembled box that the cabinet came in as a cutting surface.

12) Attach Threshold knobs to the center of the cabinet, using the two pre-drilled knob holes as a guide. If you have a power drill handy, it’s helpful to drill a pilot hole before you screw the knobs in. Because the cabinet panels are thinner than most wood, use the knob screws provided with the cabinet rather than those provided with the Threshold knobs.

13) Assemble cabinet according to manufacturer’s directions.

14) Place cabinet on its side and drill four top plates into the corners of cabinet underside. Screw in tapered legs. Presto! All done!

VINTAGE GLAM

Materials

1 Room Essentials 2-Drawer Organizer (Espresso finish)

Pack of paper lunch bags

Kiwi Shoe Polish in Brown

4 4-inch Bun-Foot Table Legs

Threshold Vista Square Drawer Pulls in Oil-Rubbed Bronze

Dritz Nailhead Trim in Antique Gold

Mod Podge (or similar craft glue)

Sand paper

Wood Stain

Foam paintbrush

Phillips screwdriver

1) Stain table legs according to stain manufacturer’s directions. Allow to dry.

2) Assemble cabinet frame according to manufacturer’s directions. Leave drawers unassembled at this time.

3) Sand all portions of cabinet that will be visible, including drawer fronts.

3) Decoupage your “faux leather” finish onto all outwardly visible parts of cabinet frame and drawer fronts. To create a distressed leather look, tear brown paper bags into non-uniform pieces, making sure there are no creases or straight lines. Crumple paper in your hands, uncrumple paper, apply a generous amount of Mod Podge to cabinet surface and place paper piece onto primed surface. Secure with a thin layer of Mod Podge. Repeat until entire cabinet frame and drawer fronts are covered.

4) Apply two layers of brown shoe polish to decoupaged surface. Create a uniform look by applying in small, circular strokes. Allow to dry.

5) Apply nailhead trim to the border of each drawer front, following the trim manufacturer’s directions.

6) Attach drawer pulls to drawer fronts using the pre-drilled holes. Because the cabinet material is thinner than most wood panels, use the knob screws that are provided with the cabinet, not the screws provided with the drawer pulls.

7) Assemble cabinet drawers and attach to cabinet frame following manufacturer’s directions.

8) Place cabinet on its side (front up) and screw in top plates at corners. Attach table legs. Done!

[foolcrum57]

im gonna be frank here the paintbrush plush tease has got me really conflicted.. like as a dedicated self-proclaimed objshow plush collector [as in i own all the ii and bfdi contestant plushes] the ii ones just... suck compared to the bfdi ones? like this obviously depends on the goals of the seller and the manufacturer but the bfdi plushes are big, soft, huggable and really fun to use . even ignoring the ethics of selling the yy plush the ii plushes feel specifically built to be a collectors item you keep on a shelf and honestly i do not like that and i dont know if i wanna spend money on paintbrush!!!

[zenosanalytic]

Paintbrush, PlasGlue, and Holy Clippers: Elf Rangers: Day 2: You've Got 90 Minutes -_-

I DIDN'T HAVE ALLOT OF TIME TO PAINT TODAY! GUESS HOW MUCH TIME I HAD TO PAINT TODAY!!

Being Temporally Contrained, I focused on finishing the bits of the base-layers I hadn't done yet, including deciding what I wanted to do with their hair and skin

I decided I'd give the guilliman flesh a shot for the skintone since, it being just a thicker-than-average wash, I can always just paint over it with a base or layer paint if I decide I don't like it. One coat wasn't dark enough for my liking, so I ended up doing a second after I finished painting everything else I wanted to today.

I made Archer a redhead and Handbow Raven-haired( u.u u.u), mostly to give me a chance to see how Blood Angel Red and Black Legion work as base coats. They worked fine though, again, I had some trouble applying them to such textured parts of the sculpts. I ended up doing two coats of the red, and maybe 1.5 coats of the black? It's plenty thick enough out of the pot but I overcorrected for this by watering it down a bit too much.

I decided, instead of Black Legion for my secondary leather color(the belts and straps occasionally cross other leather objects so it's necessary for visibility) I'd use Dryad Bark instead. It's a VERY dark, inky brown so it's Basically black anyway u_u u_u u_u This is a VERY thick, rich paint, and I had a wee bit of difficulty gauging the proper water-to-paint ratio at the start. I also painted Handbow's namesake in this color.

I didn't really like how the sepia looked for the bow strings, after watching a few vids on historical bowstring manufacture, I decided I'd paint them a light beige to simulate flax or linen string, and chose Morghast Bone, the one on the end there, for the purpose. I also decided I'd paint the fur-lining on Archer's boots in this color for the same reason. I used the Screaming Skull to paint Archer's bow and arrow shaft as I wanted it to look like Yew. Here's how it turned out

I'm liking the progress so far, though I think I need to do a bit of a higher angle for the pics in future so you can get a better look at the handbow. I think the two beiges/ivories will work well as base layers, though I haven't decided which wash I want to use on them yet. BA Red is also a nice, dark red, and Im hoping it'll make a good base for the brassy color I'm ultimately aiming for with Archer. With Handbow I really want a black with blue tones, so I'm going to experiment with a blue shade to see if that lets me create it(I LOVE purple toned black hair, but I really want her's to have a cooler quality to it so silvery-grey highlights will work later). I'll keep the wraps Emerald for now, but I'm thinking I might like a darker Jade-like color better; we'll see.

Ok so: Tomorrow ought to be me getting the metallics knocked out and then making some shading Decisions. Seeya then: Same Paint-time, Same Paint-place >:> >:>

[despondent-beauty]

CS major here. Taking a course on ethical CS practices. Have to say that software being seen as copyrightable is fucking stupid to me. It's a product. A tool. Patentable, sure. Copyrightable? I don't think so. The imagination and design process going into software is much more similar to that that goes into designing a manufacturing process, not that that goes into producing a character or writing a novel.

Anyway, this is a bit tangential to the above post. The thing is that I do believe in intellectual property to some degree or other; I think producers of intellectual property should be rewarded for that production. So I don't agree that all software should be open-source. You wouldn't use a paintbrush without paying for it, after all.

However, I do agree that software should be transparent. Making it impossible or nigh-impossible to see inside of the box that does the shiny yay funtimes for you is wrong, regardless of if it's for copy protection or not.

Having said that, I also acknowledge that this would make using the tool without providing recompense to the developer much easier -- you could just remove the code that requires an access key, for instance.

Still, I'm more on the side of 'the program should be reviewable by outsiders to check for malicious activity,' and that might not necessitate making the base code 100% visible to everyone. I think there's some middle ground that we can pursue that protects intellectual property (the same ownership type that allows digital artists to make a living or authors to sell books, just fyi. You don't want to get rid of this, trust me) while also forcing software to be more transparent and easily reviewed for malicious conduct.

PS: Feel free to debate. My mind isn't fully decided on this issue tbh, and I'd love to hear more perspectives. Just miss me with the standard Tumblr aggressiveness, please. I don't respond well to aggression.

all software should be open source wtf. u expect me to run this on my own computer without knowing what its doing???

car manufacturers dont weld the hoods shut to keep ppl from copying their engines. books arent written with a military-grade cipher to avoid plagiarism. and we dont let food have "secret formulas" anymore bc too often one of the "secret ingredients" was fucking lead

when ur distributing a product to the public u forfeit the right to hide whats inside it, u dont get to hand out a black box and expect ppl to just trust u when u totally swear it doesnt have a microphone inside

[weepaintbrush]

Triangle handle detailing paint artist brush

[quirksphere]

A Step-by-Step Guide to Repainting Kitchen Cabinets

Repainting kitchen cabinets is one of the most cost-effective ways to give your kitchen a fresh, new look. Whether you’re aiming for a modern, farmhouse, or minimalist aesthetic, a few coats of paint can transform tired and outdated cabinets into a focal point of your home. Follow this step-by-step guide to achieve a professional-looking finish without breaking the bank.

Materials and Tools Needed:

Screwdriver

Drop cloths or plastic sheeting

Painter’s tape

Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit)

Wood filler (optional)

Degreaser or kitchen cleaner

Primer (stain-blocking recommended)

Paint (semi-gloss or satin finish for durability)

Paintbrushes and foam rollers

Paint tray

Tack cloth

Step 1: Plan and Prepare

The first step to success is preparation. Choose a color and finish that complements your kitchen’s design. Semi-gloss or satin paints are ideal for cabinets because they are durable and easy to clean. Once you’ve decided, gather all your tools and materials to ensure a smooth workflow.

Step 2: Remove Cabinet Doors and Hardware

Use a screwdriver to remove all cabinet doors, drawers, and hardware (handles, knobs, and hinges). Label each door and its corresponding hardware to make reassembly easier. Place screws and small parts in a labeled container to avoid losing them.

Step 3: Clean Thoroughly

Kitchen cabinets are often coated with grease and grime. Use a degreaser or a heavy-duty kitchen cleaner to remove all residue. Skipping this step can lead to poor paint adhesion.

Step 4: Sand the Surfaces

Using 120-grit sandpaper, lightly sand all surfaces to remove the existing finish and create a rough texture for the primer to adhere to. If the surface has imperfections, use wood filler to patch any dents or scratches, then sand again with 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe away dust with a tack cloth.

Step 5: Protect Your Space

Lay drop cloths or plastic sheeting on the floor and over countertops. Use painter’s tape to mask off areas you don’t want painted, such as walls or adjacent appliances.

Step 6: Apply Primer

Apply a thin, even coat of primer to all cabinet surfaces using a brush for corners and a foam roller for larger areas. Stain-blocking primer is recommended to prevent discoloration from old stains. Allow the primer to dry completely, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7: Paint the Cabinets

Once the primer is dry, it’s time to paint. Apply the paint in thin, even coats. Use a brush for detailed areas and a foam roller for flat surfaces. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Depending on the color and quality of your paint, you may need two to three coats for full coverage.

Step 8: Let Everything Cure

Paint may feel dry to the touch within hours, but it needs time to cure fully. Allow the cabinets to cure for at least 24-48 hours in a well-ventilated area to ensure durability.

Step 9: Reassemble the Cabinets

Once the paint has cured, reattach the cabinet doors, drawers, and hardware. Use the labels you created earlier to ensure everything goes back in the correct place.

Step 10: Final Touches

Inspect your work for any touch-ups or areas that need a bit more attention. Once you’re satisfied, clean up your workspace, and step back to admire your transformed kitchen.

Pro Tips for Success:

Use high-quality brushes and rollers for a smooth finish.

Work in a well-ventilated area to ensure safety and proper drying.

Test your chosen paint color on a small, inconspicuous area before committing.

Repainting your kitchen cabinets may require time and effort, but the results are well worth it. With careful preparation and patience, you’ll achieve a stunning transformation that elevates your kitchen’s aesthetic and value.

[manolisbrothersflorida]

How to Fix Paint Peeling From Interior Walls?

Peeling paint on interior walls can be an eyesore and a sign of underlying issues that need attention. Whether it's due to moisture, poor surface preparation, or aging paint, addressing the problem promptly can prevent further damage and restore the beauty of your walls. Here is a step-by-step guide to fix peeling paint effectively.

Step 1: Identify the Cause

Before starting, it's essential to understand why the paint is peeling. Common reasons include:

Moisture Issues: High humidity or water leaks can cause the paint to lose adhesion.

Improper Surface Preparation: Skipping primer or not cleaning the surface thoroughly can lead to peeling.

Poor-Quality Paint: Low-grade paint may not adhere well or withstand wear. Addressing the root cause ensures the problem won't recur after the fix.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools and Materials

For this project, you will need:

A putty knife or paint scraper

Sandpaper (medium to fine grit)

A damp cloth

Painter's tape

Primer

High-quality interior paint

Paintbrushes or rollers

Patch filler (if necessary)

Step 3: Prepare the Area

Start by protecting your furniture and flooring with drop cloths. Use painter's tape to mask off areas you don't want to paint. If the peeling is near a window or door, consider removing hardware or covering it with tape.

Step 4: Remove Peeling Paint

Using a paint scraper or putty knife, carefully remove all loose and flaking paint. Be thorough, as leaving compromised paint can result in uneven adhesion of the new paint layer. Sand the edges of the remaining paint to create a smooth transition between the affected and unaffected areas.

Step 5: Repair and Prime the Surface

Inspect the surface for any cracks, holes, or imperfections. Fill these with a patch filler, then sand the area once it dries. Wipe the wall with a damp cloth to remove dust and debris.

Apply a high-quality primer to the prepared area. Primer not only helps with adhesion but also seals the surface, creating a smooth base for the paint. Let the primer dry completely before proceeding.

Step 6: Repaint the Wall

Choose a durable, high-quality paint suitable for interior painting. Using a paintbrush or roller, apply the paint in even strokes. Allow the first coat to dry before applying a second coat for better coverage and durability.

Step 7: Prevent Future Peeling

To keep your walls looking fresh:

Control humidity levels in your home with dehumidifiers or proper ventilation.

Use high-quality products and follow the manufacturer's application instructions.

Trust professionals for larger or more complex projects. Hiring interior house painters in Florida can ensure the job is done efficiently and effectively.

Final Thoughts

Fixing peeling paint is a manageable DIY project with the right tools and preparation. However, for extensive damage or challenging conditions, professional help can save time and guarantee long-lasting results. Whether you’re tackling a small patch or planning a full-scale interior house painting project, addressing the root cause and using quality materials will ensure a flawless finish.

[umerasifff]

hardwood floor refinishing

Hardwood floor Refinishing is a great way to restore their natural beauty and extend their lifespan without having to replace them. It involves sanding down the old finish, repairing any damage, and applying a new finish to the floor. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to refinish hardwood floors:

Materials Needed:

Orbital or drum sander (with appropriate grit sandpaper)

Edge sander (for corners and edges)

Sandpaper (coarse, medium, and fine grits)

Floor cleaner

Tack cloth or microfiber mop

Floor finish (polyurethane or other wood finish)

Paintbrush or applicator pads

Respirator mask, ear protection, and safety goggles

Vacuum and broom

Wood filler (if needed for repairs)

Protective floor covering (for areas not being sanded)

1. Prepare the Room

Clear the Area: Remove all furniture, rugs, and any other items from the room. The floor should be completely clear before you begin.

Clean the Floor: Sweep and vacuum thoroughly to remove any dirt, dust, and debris. Use a damp mop or hardwood floor cleaner to ensure the surface is free from grime.

2. Check the Condition of the Floor

Assess the Floor: Look for deep scratches, gouges, or any areas that may need repair. Small cracks or holes can be filled with wood filler.

Fill Cracks and Holes: If you have any holes or cracks, apply wood filler to those spots. Smooth it out with a putty knife and allow it to dry completely. Once dry, sand the filled areas lightly with fine-grit sandpaper.

3. Sand the Floor

Safety First: Wear a respirator mask, goggles, and ear protection, as sanding can create dust and noise.

Start with Coarse Grit Sandpaper: Use an orbital or drum sander with coarse-grit sandpaper (around 36 to 40 grit) to sand the entire floor. Begin sanding with the grain of the wood and move in a consistent, overlapping motion. Do not stay in one spot for too long to avoid creating uneven areas.

Edge Sanding: Use an edge sander to sand the edges of the floor and areas the main sander can’t reach (such as around baseboards). Be cautious not to damage the baseboards or walls.

Progressively Sand with Finer Grits: Once you’ve sanded the entire floor with the coarse grit, switch to a medium grit (60 to 80) and then finish with a fine grit (100 to 120). Each step smooths the floor further and helps eliminate sanding marks from the previous step.

Vacuum and Clean: After each sanding step, vacuum the floor to remove dust. You can also use a microfiber mop to ensure all dust is gone. Dust left on the floor can affect the finish.

4. Apply the Finish

Choose the Right Finish: The most common finish for hardwood floors is polyurethane, which comes in both oil-based and water-based formulas. Oil-based polyurethane tends to be more durable but has a longer drying time and stronger odor. Water-based polyurethane dries faster and has less odor.

Apply the First Coat: Use a paintbrush or a lambswool applicator pad to apply the finish in long, even strokes, following the grain of the wood. Apply a thin coat—thicker coats can result in bubbles or streaks. Make sure to avoid walking on the freshly finished floor until the finish has dried completely.

Let It Dry: Allow the first coat to dry for the recommended time (usually 4-6 hours for water-based finishes, 8-12 hours for oil-based finishes). Check the manufacturer’s instructions for specific drying times.

5. Buff the Floor Between Coats (Optional)

If you want a super-smooth finish, lightly buff the floor with a floor buffer or by hand with a fine-grit sanding screen between coats. Be sure to vacuum up all dust before applying the next coat of finish.

6. Apply Additional Coats

Second and Third Coats: Apply at least two more coats of finish, especially for high-traffic areas. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding drying times between coats. Allow the previous coat to dry completely before applying the next.

7. Allow the Floor to Cure

After the final coat, let the floor cure for a minimum of 24 to 48 hours before walking on it. For heavy furniture and high-traffic areas, wait a full week before replacing the furniture to allow the finish to fully harden.

8. Final Cleaning and Maintenance

Once the finish is fully cured, clean the floor using a soft microfiber mop to maintain its shine. Avoid harsh chemicals that could damage the finish. In high-traffic areas, you may want to use area rugs to protect the surface.

Tips for Success:

Don’t Rush: Take your time with each step, especially sanding. A well-sanded floor will give you a much better final result.

Ventilation: Ensure the area is well-ventilated when working with finishes, especially oil-based finishes, to avoid inhaling fumes.

Stay Consistent: Always apply the finish in thin, even coats to prevent streaking or pooling.

Wear Protective Gear: Sanding creates fine dust, and chemical finishes can be harsh, so always wear a respirator and goggles for protection.

When to Consider Hiring a Professional:

Refinishing hardwood floors can be time-consuming and labor-intensive, especially if you have a large area to cover. If you don’t have the proper equipment or experience, it might be worthwhile to hire a professional to handle the job. They will have access to high-quality tools, such as drum sanders and floor buffers, that can make the process quicker and more efficient.

By following these steps and taking your time, you can successfully refinish your hardwood floors and restore their beauty, increasing the lifespan and appeal of your flooring.

[20mccwaterproofing]

Step-by-Step Wall Waterproofing Guide: Protect Your Walls from Moisture

Wall leaks are one of the common issues that most house owners encounter. Some of these leaks can be severe and lead to high repair costs, mold development, and wall weakening. However, one simple fix is to waterproof your walls. 

This easy fix ensures that your walls are safe from water damage and is also a budget-friendly solution. In this article, we’ll run through a detailed procedure for making your wall waterproof so your house remains safe from moisture damage.

How To Waterproof Your Walls From Moisture

Wall waterproofing is a rather simple process and can be done with just a few simple steps and a few materials. We’ve divided each step into smaller sections, making it easier for you to understand and follow. Now, let’s start with the first step:

1. Inspect Your Walls

The first process is to assess the walls for any damage. Seek for any form of opening, including cracks, holes, and any other tear that may be present on the wall’s surface.

Also, you need to look for signs of moisture, like stains or discoloration of paint, mold growth, or even the smell of mold. If you notice even the hint of a problem, do not ignore it because it will worsen over time.

2. Clean and Prepare the Walls

You will have to prepare the walls before the waterproofing process to ensure a proper seal. If you have loose paint or wallpaper anywhere in the room, strip it off and apply wall filler over the holes in the walls.

Sand the surface using sandpaper and apply a primer to improve the holding capacity of the waterproofing solution.

3.Waterproofing Coating for Walls

Materials for waterproofing walls come in many forms, and while most of them are effective in what they are designed to do, each has its pros and cons. Some common options for waterproofing material include:

Liquid Solutions: They are available as a solution that can easily be brushed, rolled, or sprayed on the wall surface. They are commonly used in spaces that are hard to reach and easy to install. You can opt for Nanosil, which is a strong waterproof material.

Paint-on waterproofing: These include latex and oil-based paints. They can be applied directly to the wall, are long-lasting, and form a rigid concrete shield against water.

Sheet membranes: These membranes form a hard shield and are effective for waterproofing. They are made of multiple materials, including rubber, PVC, bitumen, or any material that can be glued onto the wall surface.

While purchasing these wall waterproofing materials, consult the salesperson on each material's benefits and also factor in your budget. 

4. Use Wall WaterproofingMaterial

When you have decided on which material to use for waterproofing, the next step is to apply it to your walls. It is preferable to use Micronsi 30Cl to form a strong base and have a strong waterproof sealant.

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions and guidelines for applying the chosen product and use the correct equipment and methods.

If you want to use Nanosil, apply it as a liquid using a paintbrush or roller or as a waterproof sealant along with the paint you use. Make sure to use the correct rollers as mentioned in the instructions.

5. Let the Waterproofing Material Dry

The waterproofing materials will vary in how long it takes for the material to dry and harden. Always read the instructions on the packet or manual and wait for the walls to dry. 

One coat of waterproofing should be enough to stop any minor leaks. However, it is suggested that two coats should be applied for optimal waterproofing. 

6. Seal Cracks and Joints

Once the waterproofing has dried, it is essential to ensure that there are no crevices in the face of the wall or any seams that can produce openings through which water can seep into the wall. If you find any such cracks or seams, use a sealant to seal them. You can also refer to a professional crack filling service for a premium finish.

Silicone or polyurethane sealants are usually used with waterproofing materials since they are flexible and water-resistant.

7. Install Drainage Systems

To enhance the waterproofing of your walls, you can also install a drainage system to help channel water away from the wall surface. 

This could include laying a French drain, putting up a gutter and downpipe system, or any other drainage system that helps you direct water away from your walls.

8. Monitoring and Maintenance 

The last preventive measure is ensuring proper maintenance is always done to keep the walls waterproof and away from moisture. 

Occasionally analyze your walls and see if there are indications of damage; if ever there is, repaint the waterproofing material on the walls. Also, remember to clean your gutters and other drainage systems and ensure no water accumulation around your house walls.

Sealing Moisture Away with Wall Waterproofing 

Sealing your walls is crucial in preventing water damage and mold that may be catastrophic and costly to your house. With these easy steps, you can seal your walls effectively and quickly protect your home from wearing out. 

Protect your home with the best waterproofing service in India from 20MCC– a trusted name since 1987. As water leakage solution experts in India, we provide advanced solutions to enhance the durability of your walls and minimize repair costs. With a legacy of excellence and a global presence in over 68 countries, we deliver premium waterproofing chemicals and services tailored to your needs. Contact us today and seal moisture away for good!

[jiacast]

Make A Gift Day

DIY Hand-Painted Mug Gift

Materials Needed:

Plain white ceramic mug

Acrylic paint or ceramic paint pens

Paintbrushes (optional)

Painter’s tape or stencils (optional)

Clear ceramic sealant spray

Paper towels/newspaper (to protect your workspace)

Instructions:

Get Your Workspace Ready

To protect your table, spread out paper towels or newspapers.

To remove dust or grease from the ceramic cup, wash and dry well.

Remove any dust or oil from the ceramic cup by washing and drying it.

Plan your design

Use a pencil to draw your concept on paper or, if it's light enough to erase, right on the cup.

Use painter's tape or stencils to create neat lines or precise shapes.

Use stencils or painter's tape if you want precise shapes or clear lines.

Start painting

To make your design, use ceramic paint pens or acrylic paint.

Use a paintbrush to apply solid colors evenly.

If you're layering colors, let each one dry before adding the next.

Let each color layer dry completely before adding the next if you're stacking colors.

Let it dry

Let the paint totally dry. It could take many hours for the paint to dry out, so follow the directions.

Seal the design

To make your design dishwasher-safe and set it, use a clear ceramic sealant spray.

Apply the sealant as directed by the manufacturer, allowing it to dry in a well-ventilated location.

Personalize It

Make the mug even more personal by adding the recipient's name, a particular quote, or a noteworthy date.

Wrap it up

Stuff the cup with their favorite sweets, like as coffee sachets, tea bags, or chocolates.

Use a ribbon to secure it after wrapping it in a gift box or transparent cellophane!

This compassionate and innovative gift is ideal for demonstrating how much you care!