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lantern-hill · 2 years ago

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hello! i love your photos, i just added a bunch of your posts to my queue <3 i love your shots of the nature in org. you dont have to answer but i wanted to ask please what camera did you use for “cat on film” ? ive been thinking about getting a 35mm camera but i don’t know which one would give me that soft warm fuzzy look your photos of your cat had :’) thank you

hi, thank you!

the camera i took those on is a chinon gaf memo 35ee,..

...but i wouldn't recommend getting one, to be honest, especially if you're new to film photography. it's a rangefinder focus, which means instead of just turning a wheel around the lens until the image is sharp, you have to line up two tiny versions of what you see in the center of the viewfinder and then take the picture. like this:

you see the tiny yellow rectangle in the middle of the frame? in order to focus the camera, you need to line up the two images within that tiny amount of space. there's a whole bunch of other reasons i don't love this camera, and a few things i like, but i won't go into it. i don't really use this camera anymore.

the good thing is that the "soft warm fuzzy feeling" you want to replicate really has almost nothing to do with this camera. it's more related to the film you use, the settings you use on your camera, and, of course, the lighting in the area where you're taking the photo.

here's another photo i took that has a similar warm, fuzzy vibe, despite the fact that it was taken on a different camera and with different film.

i'm not a film photography expert by any means, but i would say when you're trying to get this type of vibe, the actual lighting in the place where you're taking the photo is the most important.

you also probably want to use a camera that doesn't have fixed focus. Some cameras, especially the really easy to use instant film or disposable film ones, don't require you to focus; you just press the button and move on. that's fixed focus. part of what gives you the warm fuzzy feeling about the photo above is that not every part of the image is sharp.

a lot of the pictures in that cat post are also slightly over- or under-exposed, but none of them use flash, so you probably want a camera that doesn't automatically set off a flash if it detects the lighting is too low.

in terms of getting your first film camera, that can be tricky because there's basically no new ones out there for sale- unless you want to get a tacky plastic disposable or shill out 1000s for a Leica. you're most likely going to have to buy secondhand from a camera store or just some guy online. facebook marketplace is really good for this in my experience.

some buying tips:

-decide if you want a point-and-shoot (you just look through the viewfinder and press the shutter button, done) or a SLR that lets you manually adjust the shutter speed, iso, etc. both are great and i have one of each for different situations.

-in my experience, don't bother paying more than 40$ CAD for a 2ndhand point-and-shoot or $100 for a full film camera unless it's something ridiculously amazing or unless you're buying secondhand from a camera store.

-look up the specs of your camera before buying it and pay attention to the degree to which the camera is automatic. film cameras use a light meter to measure what the shutter speed should be in different situations to capture the right amount of light, but the way they use the light meter differs. if a camera is fully automatic, that means that it measures the light in the room and then automatically adjusts the shutter speed to be correct.

this sounds great, but it also usually means you can't manually change the shutter speed. this can be a problem because, again, you're buying a secondhand camera that's probably at least two decades old. there's a high chance the electric components that automatically measure the light will be corroded or broken or will soon break down, and when they do repairs may be very expensive or even impossible, since you just can't find some repair parts anymore.

the more manual your film camera is, the better it can stand the test of time, because even if the camera's light meter fully breaks down and can't be repaired, you can buy a handheld light meter to tell you the right shutter speed and then manually change the shutter speed on your camera. this isn't to say to avoid all automatic features- all my cameras are to some degree automatic and i like it a lot- but its something to be aware of.

-look up your camera on lomography.com, which has a ton of film photos that you can sort by film and by camera. (i also have my own lomography account, where my photos are sorted by film and by camera.)

-when buying a camera that has a battery slot, open it up and check for any rust or corrosion inside. don't buy it if there's any green or brown on the parts the battery connects to.

i have three other cameras that i have and like a lot:

nikon EM (SLR) - 80 bucks on FB marketplace

yashica fx-3 super 2000 (SLR) - belonged to a relative

samsung ff-222 (point + shoot) - 30 bucks on FB marketplace

i also like the canon T series a lot, my friend has a canon t70.

and the films i tend to use are:

fujifilm superia (my fave; relatively cheap color film. the cat photos are on this.)

kodak ultramax (slightly more expensive. not that different results wise, maybe a little more pastel.)

portra - expensive but pretty

ektar - expensive but pretty

ilford hp5 b&w - cheap. good for testing a new film cam so you can see results without splurging too much.

you can look them up on lomography to see the differences between them.

hope this helps!

#asks #film tag

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rabbitcruiser · 2 years ago

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National Camera Day

Dust off an old digital camera, buy a disposable camera, or just fire up your smartphone and snap some pictures of your day to keep those memories forever.

The origin of National Camera Day is unknown, but it is used as a reminder for us to remember the existence of the camera and its many benefits. After all, how many other mediums can capture people and places so beautifully? How many other mediums can evoke smiles of memories past, or reminders of events that have shaped our lives?

The camera, in all of its many forms, is to be celebrated. This humble device has become a major part of our lives, and so, on National Camera Day, snap some photos during your lunch hour, on your commute to work, or whenever a moment of inspiration strikes.

Of course, the way you take pictures probably won’t be the way that people did it before the advent of digital photography and smart devices. Readers of a younger generation will be reaching for their smartphones to take photos of the world around them. And even if you are somebody who was well-versed in the wonderful world of 35mm film and zoom lenses, you might still find yourself reaching for your mobile device instead of that vintage camera from yesteryear.

Still, no matter what type of device you use to take photos, do something this National Camera Day. We all need to express ourselves creatively, so let your juices flow when you’re out and about or pottering around in your home, and take some magical pics.

History of Cameras and Photography

Cameras and photography have developed substantially over the years, from its early roots with the French inventor Joseph Niépce right up to modern day digital photography.

Joseph Niépce was a French inventor and is most noted as one of the inventors of photography and as a pioneer in the field. He developed the heliograph; a technique used to produce the world’s first known photograph in 1825, the view from the window at Le Gras the families estate.

In 1839, Louis Jacques Daguerre took the first fixed image that didn’t fade. He is recognized for his invention of the daguerreotype process of photography. He became known as one of the fathers of photography. His method required 30 minutes of exposure. He named the process – the Daguerreotype. Tintypes were developed in 1856 by Hamilton Smith and decades later, George Eastman invented flexible and unbreakable film that could be rolled. This was the birth of the first Kodak that was offered for sale in 1888.

In 1925 the Leica I went on sale, and its immediate popularity spawned a number of competitors. Kodak was one such competitor, and they released the Retina I in 1934. Though 35 mm cameras were still out of reach for most people things would soon change with the introduction of the inexpensive Argus A in 1936. The Japanese camera industry began with the birth of Canon in 1936 with its 35 mm rangefinder. Japanese cameras would soon become incredibly popular in the West after the Korean War as veterans and soldiers stationed in Japan brought them back to the United States.

While conventional cameras were becoming more refined and sophisticated, an entirely new type of camera appeared on the market in 1948. While TSLR and SLR were still the rage this new camera would change the way people would capture memories. This was the Polaroid, the world’s first instant-picture camera where no film development was needed. Known as a Land Camera after its inventor, Edwin Land, this camera was able to produce finished positive prints from the exposed negatives in under a minute. This new camera took the market by storm as people no longer had to sit still for long periods of time in order for their photographer to snap a picture.

The first digital camera that was commercially sold was in December of 1989 in Japan, the DS-X by Fuji. In 1991, Kodak brought to market the Kodak DCS-100, the beginning of a long line of professional Kodak DCS SLR cameras that were based in part on film bodies. It used a 1.3 megapixel sensor and was priced at $13,000.

The first commercially available digital camera, in the United States, was the 1990 the Dycam Model 1. It was originally a commercial failure because it was black and white, low in resolution, and cost nearly $1,000 but this changed and soon became loved by photographers.

With the standardisation of JPEG and MPEG in 1988, image and video files could be compressed for storage onto a SD or CF card. With the introduction of the Nikon D1 in 1999 at 2.47 megapixels, this was the first digital SLR that was entirely by a major manufacturer. The D1 cost just under $6,000 and was inexpensive for professional photographers and high-end consumers. This camera also used Nikon F-mount lenses, which meant photographers could utilise many of the lenses they already owned.

By 2010, nearly all mobile phones featured built-in camera with a resolution of 1-2 megapixels digital video camera. Many cameras also featured built-in GPS.

How To celebrate National Camera Day

You don’t need to know the history of the camera to celebrate National Camera Day, but while we have given you a snapshot of the people and events that have paved the way for the cameras we use today, you could make a special effort to learn more, be that at your local library or by looking up facts online.

The most obvious thing to do today is to take some pictures of your own. Use your smartphone if that is your camera of choice, but if you do have access to a digital camera or something that still uses film, brush the dust off it, and take it out for a walk. Who knows what you might see when you’re out and about, be it a comical moment that you can later share with your friends, or a piece of rare beauty that you can capture in a photograph to be looked on forever.

Take photos of your family and friends too, and along with any other pictures you take, share them on social media if they were digitally taken. And why not gift a photo to another? If you have taken something that will have special resonance for another, print it off and put it in a photo frame.

Today could be the day to push yourself out of your comfort zone. So, you might put down your phone and use an actual camera for your photos, and you could take shots of something that you have never attempted before. It could be a sunrise or sunset, birds in flight, or a scenic view at great height, as just a few examples. Just be careful if you attempt that last one!

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analog-cafe · 2 years ago

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New on Analog.Cafe: "Miranda Sensomat Japanese Film SLR Review: With the Waist-Level Finder & a M39 Lens Adapter" — Miranda Sensomat is a Japanese 35mm SLR with a versatile lens mount, swappable viewfinder, and great build quality at an affordable price. — [ Click the link to read the full post. ]

#film photography #filmisnotdead #35mm film #believeinfilm #ishootfilm

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dancuny · 14 days ago

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Minolta-35 Model II

The Minolta-35 Model II camera I have was an unexpected discovery, purchased with several other cameras through an online auction. It wasn't the camera I was originally after in the lot, but the only thing that distinguished it in the photo was the fitted case, with 'Minolta' proudly displayed on the face.

There were so many different models of camera from Minolta during this timeframe that I wasn't sure what was actually in the fitted case. Still, when I received the "lot" of cameras and uncased the Minolta-35, someone had painted the camera black. And whoever painted it did an abysmal job of it. I only wish I had photos of the camera in that state, but I didn't think of it then. The camera was painted black, and the shutter wasn't working. The good news is that the camera had a good and clean lens.

Over the years, I have brought the camera to a few different collectible camera shows in hopes of selling it, but no sales have been made.

One day, a few months ago, I was browsing the cameras on my shelf, looking for one to write about, when I picked up the Minolta. I felt a personal connection to it, and determined to do a blog post, I sent it off to my trusty camera technician, Allen, at CameraWerks in NY to have it CLA'd. Despite its modest value, the fact that it's from the early 1950s and a very respectable Leica thread mount 'clone' made it worth the investment for me.

Before I sent the camera to Allen, I wanted to get the black paint off the camera and bring it back to the original chrome camera it was. I had bought some Acetone to see if I could gently get rid of the paint and not ruin any of the other parts of the camera. Unfortunately, the Acetone didn't work well and didn't take much of the paint off. Then, I noticed that if I used my fingernail, the paint would chip off reasonably easily. I also noticed that in our kitchen, we had some bamboo skewers, which seemed to work OK, so to get into some of the tighter spots, I used the bamboo skewer, and to get into the very tight areas, I used the tip of some of the metal tweezers I have for some very minor repairs.

The camera still has some very minor spotting of black paint, as you'll see in the photos in the article, but 99.8% of the paint is gone. The camera looks considerably better than it did before. It's in great working condition, and even the rangefinder is clean and accurate, so it was time to do my blog on this early Minolta 35mm rangefinder camera.

The Company:

Minolta was a pioneering Japanese camera manufacturer known for its innovative contributions to photography. Founded in 1928 as Nichi-Doku Shashinki Shōten (which translates to "Japanese-German Camera Company"), the company was renamed Minolta in 1933. The name Minolta is derived from "Mechanismus, Instrumente, Optik und Linsen von Tashima," reflecting its German-Japanese technological collaboration.

Minolta's early cameras were heavily influenced by German designs, particularly Leica and Contax rangefinders. The company released its first camera, the Nifcarette, in 1929, followed by various medium-format folding cameras in the 1930s. After World War II, Minolta resumed camera production, releasing the Minolta-35 in 1947, which became Japan's first 35mm camera with a coupled rangefinder.

Minolta's breakthrough came in 1958 with the Minolta SR-2, its first single-lens reflex (SLR) camera. Throughout the 1960s, the company expanded its SLR lineup, introducing the Minolta SR-T 101 in 1966, which featured an innovative through-the-lens (TTL) metering system. The 1970s saw Minolta partner with Leica, resulting in co-developed cameras like the Leica R3 and Minolta XE-7.

One of Minolta's most revolutionary releases was the Minolta XD-7 (XD-11 in North America) in 1977, the world's first camera with aperture-priority and shutter-priority automatic exposure modes. This technological advancement set the stage for further automation in cameras.

In 1985, Minolta changed the photography world with the Minolta Maxxum 7000 ( Alpha 7000 in Japan and Dynax 7000in Europe). This was the first SLR camera with fully integrated autofocus, making it far easier for photographers to achieve sharp images quickly. The Maxxum series gained popularity, pushing competitors like Canon and Nikon to accelerate their autofocus developments.

During the 1990s, Minolta expanded into digital imaging and compact cameras while maintaining its SLR dominance with the Dynax (Maxxum) series. The Minolta RD-175, released in 1995, was one of the earliest digital SLRs, marking Minolta's transition into the digital era.

In 2003, Minolta merged with Konica, another Japanese camera giant, to form Konica Minolta. However, due to declining camera sales, Konica Minolta exited the camera business in 2006, selling its assets, including the popular A-mount system, to Sony. This acquisition helped Sony establish itself in the DSLR market, leading to the Alpha series that continues today.

Though Minolta as a brand no longer produces cameras, its legacy lives on through Sony's Alpha series, which traces its roots back to Minolta's innovative technologies.

My Camera:

My Minolta-35, Model II is 5 3/8" wide by 3" tall by 3" deep, which includes the Chiyoko Super Rokkor 5cm (50mm) F2.8 lens. If I take the lens off, the body only is 1.5" deep. The camera weighs 1 lb. 10.9 oz is a very comfortable camera size and weight, and it fits into my hands nicely. The Minolta-35 Model II has shutter speeds ranging from 1/500 down to 1 second, with "T" for timed exposures and "B" for bulb.

The Minolta-35 Model II also splits the shutter speeds into two different dials on the camera with the higher speeds on the top dial, which go from 1/500 to 1/25 and "B" and from 1/25 to 1 sec, and "T" on the secondary shutter speed dial on the front of the camera just above the self-timer. To set the shutter speed, you'll need to lift up the dial and turn it to the desired speed for the exposure. Changing the shutter speeds should only be done once you cock the shutter.

To use the secondary or lower shutter speeds, the top dial needs to be set to 1/25, and the lower speed dial needs to be set at whatever of the slower speeds you'll be shooting. This method is prevalent for Leica copy cameras from this era.

The Chiyoko Super Rokkor lens on my Minolta-35 is smooth and in excellent condition. To focus, similar to other Leica thread mount lenses, a locking pin is used to lock the lens to the infinity position. To release the lock and focus to a closer range, press the release button and turn the lens to the desired focus distance. Inside the camera is a built-in rangefinder, which will aid the photographer in the distance needed to take a sharp photo. Along the outer rim of the lens is the lens's aperture ring, which goes from F2.8 to F22.

The shutter release is on the top of the camera, just to the right of the shutter speed dial. A small crown-shaped piece surrounds it, which can be removed to use a cable release for the timed or longer exposure times built into the camera.

Just above the shutter release is the rewind switch, which you slide to the "R" position to release the camera's drive gear so you can rewind the film back into the film canister when you complete the roll of film. Just to the right of the rewind switch is the film winding knob which has an arrow on top to show the user which direction to turn to advance the film to the next frame. At the bottom of the film winding knob is the frame counter which you need to zero out when you load a new roll of film into the camera so you'll know how many photos you've taken on the roll you loaded into the camera.

On the far left of the camera is the film rewind knob. Lift the knob up to make the rewinding of the film back into the film canisters easier. Once the back of the camera is open, you can lift the rewind knob even higher to remove or load the film canister in or out of the camera.

Right in the middle of the camera, on the top plate, is the Minolta-35 name along with the serial number, which on my camera is 90899, and Chiyoda Kogaku. I enjoy the modernistic font used on the older Minolta camera, which is very elegant.

On the back of the camera is the viewfinder window for focus, and on the outside is a dioptric adjustment. This is for people who wear glasses. Turning the dial around the finder window allows you to adjust your glasses prescription to correct vision issues. You can put the camera to your eye without wearing your glasses and still get a sharp photo. In the center of the back of the camera is the flash sync plug, which is just below the accessory shoe used for a flash attachment.

To open the camera to load film, there is a small knob on the bottom of the Minolta-35 that you'll need to turn counterclockwise until the "open" dot is lining up with the arrow. When this happens, the back of the camera springs open, and you load the camera just like you would any standard 35mm camera.

Lift the rewind knob to load the film cassette into the camera. Pull the leader across the drive gears and put the film leader into the slot on the take-up spool. Take the tension of the film up by turning the rewind knob clockwise to take the slack up on the film. Close the back turn the open/close knob to the "closed" position to lock the camera's back, and wind to your first frame. Watch that the rewind knob is turning when you advance the film so you know the film is transporting in the camera, and set the frame counter to number one.

My Results:

I loaded my Minolta-35 camera with a roll of Ilford Pan F Plus 50 ISO black-and-white film. I wanted to use a slow speed to see how the camera would perform in lower-light situations. I also had my trusty Sekonic L-308 meter with me to achieve accurate exposures. I knew I could always count on Sekonic to give precise light readings.

Now that I had film loaded into the newly serviced camera, I walked through my yard and neighborhood to take photos with the Minolta-35 camera. Here are a few of the images I took on my walk.

My Conclusion:

The camera was enjoyable to photograph with. The rangefinder was bright and accurate. I tried many slow shutter speeds to see how the camera performed under these low-light circumstances. I had a great time using this camera and want to continue using it. The overhaul made a tremendous difference; without the black paint on the camera, it also looks terrific.

Thank you for taking a few minutes from your busy schedule to read about this excellent rangefinder camera from Minolta

Until next week, please be safe.

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tinyhideoutduck · 1 month ago

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The Art of Film Photography: Embracing the Timeless Medium

Film photography is a nostalgic and artistic medium that captures images with a unique character and depth. Unlike digital photography, film offers a tangible and organic quality, producing rich tones, natural grain, and a distinctive aesthetic. Whether you are a professional photographer or an enthusiast exploring the world of analog photography, mastering the techniques of film photography can open new creative possibilities.

The Basics of Film Photography

Before diving into advanced techniques, it's essential to grasp the fundamental elements of film photography:

Choosing the Right Film: Film comes in different formats and types, including 35mm, medium format, and large format. Color negative, black-and-white, and slide film each offer distinct visual characteristics.

Understanding Exposure: Unlike digital cameras, film has a fixed ISO sensitivity. Mastering the exposure triangle (aperture, shutter speed, and ISO) is crucial for achieving well-balanced images.

Manual Focus and Composition: Many film cameras rely on manual focus, encouraging photographers to slow down and carefully compose their shots using techniques such as the rule of thirds and leading lines.

Types of Film Photography

Film photography encompasses a variety of styles, each requiring unique skills and approaches. Some popular types include:

Black and White Photography: Offers timeless, high-contrast images with a focus on light, texture, and emotion.

Portrait Film Photography: Captures people with soft tones, natural skin textures, and a classic aesthetic.

Street Film Photography: Documents urban life with an authentic and raw quality, often using high-speed film for low-light situations.

Landscape Film Photography: Showcases nature’s beauty with rich colors and dynamic range, often shot on medium or large format film.

Experimental Film Photography: Includes double exposures, light leaks, and film soup techniques to create unique artistic effects.

Tips for Capturing Stunning Film Photos

Choose the Right Film Stock: Different films offer different characteristics—Kodak Portra for warm skin tones, Ilford HP5 for high-contrast black and white, and Fujifilm Velvia for vibrant landscapes.

Meter for Shadows: Unlike digital, film retains details better in highlights. Metering for shadows ensures balanced exposure.

Use a Tripod for Long Exposures: Film photography often requires slower shutter speeds, making a tripod essential for stability.

Develop and Scan Your Film: Learning to develop film at home or choosing a quality lab can impact the final look of your images.

Embrace Imperfections: Light leaks, grain, and slight color shifts add character to film photography, making each shot unique.

Practice Patience: Unlike digital, you can’t see results instantly. Take your time to compose and shoot with intention.

Experiment with Film Cameras: Rangefinders, SLRs, and medium format cameras each offer different shooting experiences and results.

Keep a Photography Journal: Since you can’t review shots immediately, noting settings and conditions helps improve your skills over time.

Conclusion

Film photography is a rewarding and immersive experience that encourages photographers to slow down and appreciate the artistry behind each shot. By mastering exposure, film selection, and composition, you can create visually striking images that stand out in the digital age. Whether capturing black-and-white portraits, vibrant landscapes, or street scenes, film photography offers a timeless charm that continues to inspire generations of photographers.

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lum-yook · 2 months ago

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How do you create that vintage look?

And wich camera would you recommend for vintage looking photos??

hii I use 35mm film cameras to take most of my photos! (my personal favorite 35mm cameras after 10 years of using 35mm film are: the Canonet QL17, and Canon Demi)

here's some tips for starting out if you're new to 35mm film & analog photography :D

•decide what kind of 35mm film- Black and White, or Color? Color film is a lot of fun and (in my opinion) easier to take satisfying photos with.

•try 400iso film first (common options are 200, 400, and 800 speed).

• Cameras: if you're looking for an affordably-priced, easy-to-use camera,, I recommend researching point-n-shoot 35mm cameras with optional flash.

(example: Olympus Shoot & Go R )

Simple point-and-shoot film cameras are great because they are like disposable film cameras, but you can use them over and over again! They'll take vintage-looking photos and an affordable camera option to see if you'd want to continue with 35mm film.

some other common camera types/categories are: SLR (most common- have a little triangular viewfinder block on top), and rangefinders (much quieter and compact)

There are many local businesses worldwide that develop film & sell film cameras. Film-developing stores can scan the developed film ("negatives"), email you those photos to have digitally, and also print them out! I go to Photo Plus in San Francisco to develop my color film, There are online shops you can mail in your film to (see in links below).

I hope this is useful! Film photography (and digital photography) was the first art medium i learned and have enjoyed long-term.

recommended sites for learning, buying supplies, and more:

lomography.com

reformedfilmlab.com

#35mm color film #film photography #photography #art #filmisnotdead #black and white photography #35mm camera #35mm photography #35mm #ask #35mm film

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toyutopiausa · 5 months ago

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photoshedblog · 7 months ago

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The Graflex Graphic 35 is a 35mm rangefinder.

The Graflex Graphic 35 is a 35mm rangefinder introduced in 1955 by Graflex as a replacement for the Graflex Ciro 35, the camera on which it was also heavily based. The Graphic 35 was designed in the US and earlier examples were made in Rochester although production shifted to Japan with Kowa later on. The lens and shutter were sourced from West Germany. The Graflex in 1959, 35mm film cameras began to take a larger portion of the market in the mid-1950s, and you are seeking a way to distinguish your cameras from the rest. The transistor radio only recently hit the market, and such electronic advances are not yet appearing in camera design. Especially with older camera companies who hired primarily mechanical engineers. Except for a few outliers such as the Miranda the interchangeable lens SLR is not yet a standard. Most manufacturers concentrated on fixed lens rangefinders during the 1950s. Canon and Nikon have only just unveiled their, yet successful, lines of SLR 35mm film cameras in 1959. In addition to this excellent balance of usability and capability, the Graphic 35 was one of the best values in photography at the time of its release. Costing just $77 for the version equipped with the 50mm F/3.5 lens and $98 for the faster F/2.8 lens, it was one of the most affordable full-featured 35mm film rangefinder-focusing cameras in production at that time.

The result of the camera’s combination of respectable performance, eye-catching new features and reasonable price was as we’d expect; it was popular. In just three years of production, the Graphic 35 sold approximately 68,000 units. I still used my Graphic 35 in 2024; that’s 70 years after someone in Rochester tightened the final screw and packed it in a box to be shipped to a camera shop. Cameras have come a long way in those 70 years, and yet the Graphic 35 remains a lot of great things, things that we still value in a camera today. It’s compact. It’s dense. It’s beautiful. It’s well-made and works like magic. Its knobs and dials and switches and levers actuate with precision, emitting the whirrs and clicks and the wicks that mechanical-thing-likers live for. In an earlier article, I called the Zeiss Contina a “clockwork camera” (a term that other bloggers and YouTubers have adopted despite a conspicuous absence of royalty checks). The Graphic 35 is similarly clock-like. I bought this Graphic 35 at the estate sale of Kirk Kekatos (founding member and former president of the Chicago Photographic Collectors Society) along with other cameras like the LaBelle Pal, Univex Model AF-4, Ansco Memo, Vest Pocket Kodak, and Bell & Howell Electric Eye 127. I had actually been looking for this camera’s successor—the Graphic 35 Jet—but couldn’t pass up a great deal on the Graphic 35 when I found one at the estate sale. And at the end of the someone came up to me with the Graphic 35 jet the person that bided for in the sale his cheque did not cleaner.

#photography

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