#new 35mm slr

[johnnymartyr]

Why Buy A New Film Camera When I Can Buy Used Ones From eBay?!

by Johnny Martyr Film photographer in 2000: “Why would I buy a new Nikon FM10 for $150, a new Nikon FM2 for $700 or a new Nikon FM3a for $800 from a camera store when I can buy a used Nikon FM from eBay for $50?” Film photographer in 2010: “Why would I buy a new Nikon FM10 for $300 from a camera store when I can buy a used Nikon FM for $75, a used Nikon FM2 for $200, or a used Nikon FM3a from…

[kodachrome-net]

The 400 Theatre, Chicago, 1982

[miyacchis]

[ashleighxcx]

Coney Island by Ellen Munro

[bull-believer]

missing ag fairs and when the sun would come out sometimes

[lantern-hill]

hello! i love your photos, i just added a bunch of your posts to my queue <3 i love your shots of the nature in org. you dont have to answer but i wanted to ask please what camera did you use for “cat on film” ? ive been thinking about getting a 35mm camera but i don’t know which one would give me that soft warm fuzzy look your photos of your cat had :’) thank you

hi, thank you!

the camera i took those on is a chinon gaf memo 35ee,..

...but i wouldn't recommend getting one, to be honest, especially if you're new to film photography. it's a rangefinder focus, which means instead of just turning a wheel around the lens until the image is sharp, you have to line up two tiny versions of what you see in the center of the viewfinder and then take the picture. like this:

you see the tiny yellow rectangle in the middle of the frame? in order to focus the camera, you need to line up the two images within that tiny amount of space. there's a whole bunch of other reasons i don't love this camera, and a few things i like, but i won't go into it. i don't really use this camera anymore.

the good thing is that the "soft warm fuzzy feeling" you want to replicate really has almost nothing to do with this camera. it's more related to the film you use, the settings you use on your camera, and, of course, the lighting in the area where you're taking the photo.

here's another photo i took that has a similar warm, fuzzy vibe, despite the fact that it was taken on a different camera and with different film.

i'm not a film photography expert by any means, but i would say when you're trying to get this type of vibe, the actual lighting in the place where you're taking the photo is the most important.

you also probably want to use a camera that doesn't have fixed focus. Some cameras, especially the really easy to use instant film or disposable film ones, don't require you to focus; you just press the button and move on. that's fixed focus. part of what gives you the warm fuzzy feeling about the photo above is that not every part of the image is sharp.

a lot of the pictures in that cat post are also slightly over- or under-exposed, but none of them use flash, so you probably want a camera that doesn't automatically set off a flash if it detects the lighting is too low.

in terms of getting your first film camera, that can be tricky because there's basically no new ones out there for sale- unless you want to get a tacky plastic disposable or shill out 1000s for a Leica. you're most likely going to have to buy secondhand from a camera store or just some guy online. facebook marketplace is really good for this in my experience.

some buying tips:

-decide if you want a point-and-shoot (you just look through the viewfinder and press the shutter button, done) or a SLR that lets you manually adjust the shutter speed, iso, etc. both are great and i have one of each for different situations.

-in my experience, don't bother paying more than 40$ CAD for a 2ndhand point-and-shoot or $100 for a full film camera unless it's something ridiculously amazing or unless you're buying secondhand from a camera store.

-look up the specs of your camera before buying it and pay attention to the degree to which the camera is automatic. film cameras use a light meter to measure what the shutter speed should be in different situations to capture the right amount of light, but the way they use the light meter differs. if a camera is fully automatic, that means that it measures the light in the room and then automatically adjusts the shutter speed to be correct.

this sounds great, but it also usually means you can't manually change the shutter speed. this can be a problem because, again, you're buying a secondhand camera that's probably at least two decades old. there's a high chance the electric components that automatically measure the light will be corroded or broken or will soon break down, and when they do repairs may be very expensive or even impossible, since you just can't find some repair parts anymore.

the more manual your film camera is, the better it can stand the test of time, because even if the camera's light meter fully breaks down and can't be repaired, you can buy a handheld light meter to tell you the right shutter speed and then manually change the shutter speed on your camera. this isn't to say to avoid all automatic features- all my cameras are to some degree automatic and i like it a lot- but its something to be aware of.

-look up your camera on lomography.com, which has a ton of film photos that you can sort by film and by camera. (i also have my own lomography account, where my photos are sorted by film and by camera.)

-when buying a camera that has a battery slot, open it up and check for any rust or corrosion inside. don't buy it if there's any green or brown on the parts the battery connects to.

i have three other cameras that i have and like a lot:

nikon EM (SLR) - 80 bucks on FB marketplace

yashica fx-3 super 2000 (SLR) - belonged to a relative

samsung ff-222 (point + shoot) - 30 bucks on FB marketplace

i also like the canon T series a lot, my friend has a canon t70.

and the films i tend to use are:

fujifilm superia (my fave; relatively cheap color film. the cat photos are on this.)

kodak ultramax (slightly more expensive. not that different results wise, maybe a little more pastel.)

portra - expensive but pretty

ektar - expensive but pretty

ilford hp5 b&w - cheap. good for testing a new film cam so you can see results without splurging too much.

you can look them up on lomography to see the differences between them.

hope this helps!

[rabbitcruiser]

National Camera Day 

Dust off an old digital camera, buy a disposable camera, or just fire up your smartphone and snap some pictures of your day to keep those memories forever.

The origin of National Camera Day is unknown, but it is used as a reminder for us to remember the existence of the camera and its many benefits. After all, how many other mediums can capture people and places so beautifully? How many other mediums can evoke smiles of memories past, or reminders of events that have shaped our lives?

The camera, in all of its many forms, is to be celebrated. This humble device has become a major part of our lives, and so, on  National Camera Day, snap some photos during your lunch hour, on your commute to work, or whenever a moment of inspiration strikes.

Of course, the way you take pictures probably won’t be the way that people did it before the advent of digital photography and smart devices. Readers of a younger generation will be reaching for their smartphones to take photos of the world around them. And even if you are somebody who was well-versed in the wonderful world of 35mm film and zoom lenses, you might still find yourself reaching for your mobile device instead of that vintage camera from yesteryear.

Still, no matter what type of device you use to take photos, do something this National Camera Day. We all need to express ourselves creatively, so let your juices flow when you’re out and about or pottering around in your home, and take some magical pics.

History of Cameras and Photography

Cameras and photography have developed substantially over the years, from its early roots with the French inventor Joseph Niépce right up to modern day digital photography.

Joseph Niépce was a French inventor and is most noted as one of the inventors of photography and as a pioneer in the field. He developed the heliograph; a technique used to produce the world’s first known photograph in 1825, the view from the window at Le Gras the families estate.

In 1839, Louis Jacques Daguerre took the first fixed image that didn’t fade. He is recognized for his invention of the daguerreotype process of photography. He became known as one of the fathers of photography. His method required 30 minutes of exposure. He named the process – the Daguerreotype. Tintypes were developed in 1856 by Hamilton Smith and decades later, George Eastman invented flexible and unbreakable film that could be rolled. This was the birth of the first Kodak that was offered for sale in 1888.

In 1925 the Leica I went on sale, and its immediate popularity spawned a number of competitors. Kodak was one such competitor, and they released the Retina I in 1934. Though 35 mm cameras were still out of reach for most people things would soon change with the introduction of the inexpensive Argus A in 1936. The Japanese camera industry began with the birth of Canon in 1936 with its 35 mm rangefinder. Japanese cameras would soon become incredibly popular in the West after the Korean War as veterans and soldiers stationed in Japan brought them back to the United States.

While conventional cameras were becoming more refined and sophisticated, an entirely new type of camera appeared on the market in 1948. While TSLR and SLR were still the rage this new camera would change the way people would capture memories. This was the Polaroid, the world’s first instant-picture camera where no film development was needed. Known as a Land Camera after its inventor, Edwin Land, this camera was able to produce finished positive prints from the exposed negatives in under a minute. This new camera took the market by storm as people no longer had to sit still for long periods of time in order for their photographer to snap a picture.

The first digital camera that was commercially sold was in December of 1989 in Japan, the DS-X by Fuji. In 1991, Kodak brought to market the Kodak DCS-100, the beginning of a long line of professional Kodak DCS SLR cameras that were based in part on film bodies. It used a 1.3 megapixel sensor and was priced at $13,000.

The first commercially available digital camera, in the United States, was the 1990 the Dycam Model 1. It was originally a commercial failure because it was black and white, low in resolution, and cost nearly $1,000 but this changed and soon became loved by photographers.

With the standardisation of JPEG and MPEG in 1988, image and video files could be compressed for storage onto a SD or CF card. With the introduction of the Nikon D1 in 1999 at 2.47 megapixels, this was the first digital SLR that was entirely by a major manufacturer. The D1 cost just under $6,000 and was inexpensive for professional photographers and high-end consumers. This camera also used Nikon F-mount lenses, which meant photographers could utilise many of the lenses they already owned.

By 2010, nearly all mobile phones featured built-in camera with a resolution of 1-2 megapixels digital video camera. Many cameras also featured built-in GPS.

How To celebrate National Camera Day

You don’t need to know the history of the camera to celebrate National Camera Day, but while we have given you a snapshot of the people and events that have paved the way for the cameras we use today, you could make a special effort to learn more, be that at your local library or by looking up facts online.

The most obvious thing to do today is to take some pictures of your own. Use your smartphone if that is your camera of choice, but if you do have access to a digital camera or something that still uses film, brush the dust off it, and take it out for a walk. Who knows what you might see when you’re out and about, be it a comical moment that you can later share with your friends, or a piece of rare beauty that you can capture in a photograph to be looked on forever.

Take photos of your family and friends too, and along with any other pictures you take, share them on social media if they were digitally taken. And why not gift a photo to another? If you have taken something that will have special resonance for another, print it off and put it in a photo frame.

Today could be the day to push yourself out of your comfort zone. So, you might put down your phone and use an actual camera for your photos, and you could take shots of something that you have never attempted before. It could be a sunrise or sunset, birds in flight, or a scenic view at great height, as just a few examples. Just be careful if you attempt that last one!

Source

[analog-cafe]

New on Analog.Cafe: "Miranda Sensomat Japanese Film SLR Review: With the Waist-Level Finder & a M39 Lens Adapter" — Miranda Sensomat is a Japanese 35mm SLR with a versatile lens mount, swappable viewfinder, and great build quality at an affordable price. — [ Click the link to read the full post. ]

[cuntylestat]

tell us a bit more about your camera collection :^)

lmao gladly! i basically tried to have one of each: instant, 35mm point and shoot, 35mm slr, medium format and now digital (i have 3 more cameras, one of them a very old dslr and two film cameras that i have no use for anymore and haven't sold). most of the cameras i have were quite affordable, so in terms of film cameras i've never spent more than 250€ on a camera. the new digital one is the biggest splurge i've made, but because of rising film prices it seemed like the right choice. i wanted this one in particular because fujfiilm has film simulations which mean i don't have to edit every picture, and i like that the dials are so similar to an old film camera (but i still need to figure out all the settings). also, it's just so pretty and small. let me know if you have any questions about anything in particular with my cameras!!

[dancuny]

Kodak Retina Model 117

I purchased this original Kodak Retina 117 with a group of various Kodak and other branded cameras from the daughter of a Kodak engineer several years ago. She mentioned that the Retina was in his office in Rochester and was one of his favorite cameras, and she could remember him using it to take family photos. She didn't know what this model was other than it was the camera that Dad used to take family photos with.

 These stories bring a human element to purchasing items from family members. The cameras are not just mechanical items, which I happen to enjoy, but they are objects that evoke memories of dad, mom, aunt, or uncle holding the camera and taking photos at family Bar-B-Ques, birthday parties, Christmas morning, and so many other memories families have together.

 When the group of cameras arrived, I knew there was an early Retina in the group. Still, I didn't realize that it was the first Retinas model to be made. During the unwrapping of the camera, I first noticed how worn the camera's leatherette was. The was smooth in many locations, which gave the first indication that the camera was well used and most likely loved by the person using it. The front door was a bit sticky to open, but that's not unusual for a camera made 90 years ago. I'm sure the spring has lost some of its pulling power with age. Once opened, I wanted first to check the shutter. That seemed in great shape; even the 1 second seemed accurate to the ear. The transport was working, and I didn't see any real issues with the camera. I put it on my shelf with many of the other cameras I have.

 This week, while thinking about what camera to write about, I started to look over one of the shelves with cameras, and the Retina popped out to me. I know it was in good working condition, at least when I put it on my shelf a year or so ago. Opening the camera was as good as the day I put it on the shelf, so I decided to put a roll of film into the camera and see what a 90-year-old, German-made 35mm camera could offer. 

Retina History

The Kodak Retina series is a fantastic camera design, blending American ingenuity with German precision. Introduced by Kodak in 1934, the Retina cameras were manufactured in Stuttgart, Germany, by Kodak AG, formerly known as Nagel Kamerawerk, which Kodak had acquired in 1931. The Retina line is celebrated for its compact design, quality construction, and innovations in photography, becoming a favorite among amateurs and professionals. The Retina series began with the Kodak Retina I (Type 117), a 35mm folding camera. The Retina was one of the first cameras to use Kodak's new 135 film cartridge, which would become the industry standard. The Retina I was compact, featuring a collapsible lens and a rugged design. The model underwent several iterations, improving lens quality, shutter speeds, and build but always retaining the folding design that defined the early Retinas.

 In 1936, Kodak introduced the Retina II (Type 122), which added a coupled rangefinder, making focusing more precise. This feature positioned the Retina as a premium camera for enthusiasts. By the mid-1950s, the Retina line had evolved into non-folding models with the introduction of the Retina Reflex series. These single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras incorporated interchangeable lenses, advanced metering, and a sharp Schneider-Kreuznach or Rodenstock lens, which appealed to serious photographers.

 The post-war years saw significant advancements. The Retina IIc and IIIc, introduced in the 1950s, became icons of the series. They featured interchangeable front lens elements, making the cameras versatile while maintaining their compact, folding design. These models also integrated advancements like exposure meters and faster shutters, ensuring the Retina line kept pace with competitors.

The Retina Reflex series launched in 1957, showcasing Kodak's foray into the SLR market. While innovative, these cameras faced stiff competition from Japanese manufacturers like Nikon and Canon. Despite this, they remain a testament to Kodak's ability to innovate during an era of rapid technological change.

 By the 1960s, the Retina line gradually faded due to the rise of inexpensive, high-quality Japanese cameras. The last Retina camera, the Retina S2, was produced in 1969. Despite their discontinuation, Kodak Retina cameras remain highly collectible, admired for their craftsmanship and role in popularizing 35mm photography. Their legacy remains a reminder of Kodak's golden era in the photography industry.

My Camera:

My Kodak Retina 117 camera is a wonderfully small and compact camera that you can put into your pocket and travel with very easily. One thing I enjoy about the look of the camera is all the knobs on the outside of the camera are nickel as opposed to the shinier chrome, which can give reflections when using the camera.

 The camera is 5" wide, just under 3" tall, and 1.5" deep with the lens closed and 3.5" deep with the front door opened and the lens out, ready to take a photo, and weighs just under a pound at 15.7 oz. My camera has a Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 5cm f3.5 lens in a Compur-Rapid shutter. The shutter has speeds from 1/500 of a second to 1 second, along with "B" and "T" settings for timed exposures. The aperture of the lens has a range of f3.5 to f16.

 To open the lens on the camera, you press a small button on the bottom of the camera. Once depressed, the front door should usually spring open, and the lens, which is on a very short bellows system, should come out into the erect position. As previously mentioned, my front door doesn't spring open, so I needed to give it a little bit of help and pull it open.

Once opened, the camera is relatively straightforward in the settings. The shutter speeds are set by turning a dial on the top of the camera if you have it in the vertical position. Like many Kodak cameras from this era, or for many folding styles of cameras, the front door has the ability to set the camera upright just by pulling out the "Kodak" logo on the front door, which will make for a leg for the camera to rest on if you want to set it down for display or to take a photo. I always do that when in a store or seeing a folding camera on display. I'll flip down the camera's leg, allowing the camera to stand upright instead of on the platform the lens pulls out onto.

A small slider sets the aperture on top of the shutter as you hold the camera horizontally. The focus on the camera is by guess only as this camera doesn't incorporate a rangefinder. This function will come in later models. There are two different sets of focus distance numbers, both on the top of the shutter, but it depends on if you have the camera either vertically, in which the numbers are black, or if you're holding the camera horizontally, then the numbers are red. To focus the lens, there is a small knob on the bottom of the lens as you hold the camera horizontally that rotates the focus collar.

To take a photo, you'll need to cock the shutter with the lever on the top of the shutter while holding the camera vertically. Once the shutter is cocked, the other lever releases the shutter making the exposure. I've seen a very small shutter release button that fits into the cable release socket on the Retina camera. Unfortunately, my camera is missing this. I wish it did have it because when I was taking photos with the camera and looking through the viewfinder on top of the camera, my finger would cover some of the viewfinder, obstructing the subject when releasing the shutter. It wasn't too bad, but the small release would have made the experience a bit better. Now, I'm hunting for a small release to put onto the camera for future use.

 To close the front door, the lens must be focused to infinity so it is in the retracted position on the camera. You'll need to depress two small buttons on the lens strut, one on top and one on the bottom, to retract the lens back into the camera body. Once this is done, the front door will click closed.

Loading the camera with film is pretty straightforward. On the side of the camera is a lever you pull down, and the back door unlocks so it can be opened. Loading the film is just like any other 35mm camera. I needed to do a couple of operational things to advance the film to the next frame. Looking on top of the camera going from left to right is the rewind wheel, the frame counter, the viewfinder, a round knurled wheel with an arrow pointing counterclockwise, and the film advance wheel. Inside the advance wheel is a second rotating wheel with a small cutout and arrows pointing in clockwise and counterclockwise directions. This inner wheel can rotate to have either an "A" showing for advancing the film forward or an "R" for rewinding the film into the film canister when all the photos have been taken. 

After making an exposure, keep the inner wheel to "A." To wind to the next frame, the knurled wheel just to the left of the advance wheel needs to be turned slightly until you feel a slight release, then you can use the larger wheel to advance to the next frame. If you don't move the knurled ring slightly, the film won't advance. This wheel is the unlocking lever that allows the camera to advance to the next frame. Also, once you load the film, be sure to set the frame counter to the number 1 to keep track of how many exposures you've taken. Once you've taken the entire roll of photos, turn the inner wheel on the advance wheel to the "R" position to rewind the film back into the film cassette. Open the back of the camera and process your film.

 My Results:

I loaded the camera with a roll of T-Max 125 film, and while taking our dog, Ernie, a 15-year-old Pug, through the neighborhood, I took photos of things that caught my eye. Here are some of the results of our walk.

Conclusion:

I must be getting better at guessing distance, which has always been a problem (one of many) of mine. I also understand that the sunny day and smaller aperture helped with some of the focusing distances I would generally have with "guesstimate" focusing. Nonetheless, the camera was small, compact, accurate in the exposures, and fun to shoot.

 As I previously mentioned, if I could find one of the small shutter release items to add to the cable release socket, this would have helped and made the camera easier to use. Besides that small item, I can see why the previous owner enjoyed shooting with this camera.

 While I enjoyed this camera, I have it for sale on my eBay store. If you're interested in this or any other items in my eBay store, please email me to work out a deal.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about this fun and historic Eastman Kodak camera. The Retina line of cameras is often overlooked but highly collectible and usable.

 Until next week, please be safe.

[bigedred]

Vintage 1980's Omega Super Chromega C-700 Dichroic Lamphouse Enlarger & Omega Co

Vintage 1980's Omega Super Chromega C-700 Dichroic Lamphouse Enlarger & Omega Concept Six B-600O "VERY RARE ITEM NOT MANY LEFT OUT THERE THAT ARE COMPLETE LIKE THIS ONE" This item will look used but was tested and still works but all kodak materials that are included more than likely are no good and have expired a long time ago. Great Collectable Item. Mega Super Chromega C-700 Dichroic Lamphouse and omega concept six enlarger print machine B-600. Both units come with paperback book instructions. Both omega machines are high quality products back in there time and the innovation design makes them a break threw in dark room engineering. All accessories are included to make a complete printing machine / This is a collectible item. Print machines were tested and still work but there is no guarantee the kodak paper is still good because of age. Material: Metal Plastic and Paper Size of Platform/Base: 20" L x 14 1/2" W x 4" H Size of Metal Beam" 32' Tall HISTORY: The C-700 enlarger represents the later generation of the model that started as the B600. While the B600 accommodated a maximum negative size of 2�"x2�", the C700 accepts negatives up to 2�"x2�". Negative carriers and accessories are much the same as for the B600. The B600 and Chromega B600 enlargers were used as the basis for a series of specialty enlargers called Concept Six. Instead of the usual baseboards, these enlargers had a special "structural foam molded" base incorporating a borderless 11"x14" easel and either a paper safe or exposure meter/timer combination. The Concept Six enlargers overlapped the B600 and C700 enlargers, so were sold with both types of lamphouses. Used Advice: Since the Concept Six enlargers have so many chassis parts in common with the C700, the enlargers themselves can still be fully refurbished without problem. However, the timer/exposure meters are not likely to be worth servicing as the probes and many other parts are no longer available. The colorhead that was initially offered with the C-700 was called the Super Chromega C-700 Dichroic Lamphouse, but with the introduction of the C760 enlarger in 1981, the same colorhead, with minor changes, was renamed the Super Chromega C760 Dichroic Lamphouse and the catalogue number changed. The two units are functionally identical. It was during this period that the Omega company benefited from a major boom in interest in photography. The 35mm SLR, with built-in metering systems simplified the process of achieving quality photographs and widened the appeal of photography as a hobby. Later on the introduction of colorhead enlargers and color processing drums enabled anyone to conveniently process their own color enlargements in home darkrooms. As a result, the sales of darkroom equipment skyrocketed as well. This enabled Omega to introduce a number of new models during the 1970's and early 80's, including the D5, C67, B66, B600, C760 and D5500.

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[johnnymartyr]

It's Not a Mirror Bumper

by Johnny Martyr Do people still reiterate that once-famous line from the 90’s movie Kindergarten Cop where Arnold Schwartenegger says “It’s not a tumor” in his characteristically out-of-place Austrian accent? Well… (in my best Arnold) It’s not a mirror bumper! Man, everything about this post is showing my age. It’s been about 24 years since I picked up my first vintage SLR and over that span…

[photoshedblog]

The Graflex Graphic 35 is a 35mm rangefinder.

The Graflex Graphic 35 is a 35mm rangefinder introduced in 1955 by Graflex as a replacement for the Graflex Ciro 35, the camera on which it was also heavily based. The Graphic 35 was designed in the US and earlier examples were made in Rochester although production shifted to Japan with Kowa later on. The lens and shutter were sourced from West Germany. The Graflex in 1959, 35mm film cameras began to take a larger portion of the market in the mid-1950s, and you are seeking a way to distinguish your cameras from the rest. The transistor radio only recently hit the market, and such electronic advances are not yet appearing in camera design. Especially with older camera companies who hired primarily mechanical engineers. Except for a few outliers such as the Miranda the interchangeable lens SLR is not yet a standard. Most manufacturers concentrated on fixed lens rangefinders during the 1950s. Canon and Nikon have only just unveiled their, yet successful, lines of SLR 35mm film cameras in 1959. In addition to this excellent balance of usability and capability, the Graphic 35 was one of the best values in photography at the time of its release. Costing just $77 for the version equipped with the 50mm F/3.5 lens and $98 for the faster F/2.8 lens, it was one of the most affordable full-featured 35mm film rangefinder-focusing cameras in production at that time.

The result of the camera’s combination of respectable performance, eye-catching new features and reasonable price was as we’d expect; it was popular. In just three years of production, the Graphic 35 sold approximately 68,000 units. I still used my Graphic 35 in 2024; that’s 70 years after someone in Rochester tightened the final screw and packed it in a box to be shipped to a camera shop. Cameras have come a long way in those 70 years, and yet the Graphic 35 remains a lot of great things, things that we still value in a camera today. It’s compact. It’s dense. It’s beautiful. It’s well-made and works like magic. Its knobs and dials and switches and levers actuate with precision, emitting the whirrs and clicks and the wicks that mechanical-thing-likers live for. In an earlier article, I called the Zeiss Contina a “clockwork camera” (a term that other bloggers and YouTubers have adopted despite a conspicuous absence of royalty checks). The Graphic 35 is similarly clock-like. I bought this Graphic 35 at the estate sale of Kirk Kekatos (founding member and former president of the Chicago Photographic Collectors Society) along with other cameras like the LaBelle Pal, Univex Model AF-4, Ansco Memo, Vest Pocket Kodak, and Bell & Howell Electric Eye 127. I had actually been looking for this camera’s successor—the Graphic 35 Jet—but couldn’t pass up a great deal on the Graphic 35 when I found one at the estate sale. And at the end of the someone came up to me with the Graphic 35 jet the person that bided for in the sale his cheque did not cleaner.

[pocketsrestorations]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Minolta DYNAX MAXXUM 800si 35mm SLR Film Camera with Minolta AF Zoom 28-80mm.

[frontporchconsign]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Canon EOS Rebel 2000 35mm SLR Film Camera Body, UV Haze Filter, Lens Cap, Strap.