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badstargateimagines · 2 years ago

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I don’t know if you take requests for anything but I loved your post of the skincare/makeup products the Stargate characters would use and I need to know….what perfume/cologne do you think they would wear? Or types of scents that they’d be into? (Btw love your imagines)

Yay!!! I’m so glad you like my stuff!! Also yessss I do take requests and I would love an excuse to talk about fragrance! My credentials are I worked at Sephora for a year and a half and I spent a lot of time on the frag wall huffing every single bottle. As a general thing I’m very obsessed w genderless, warm spicy scents so that will be reflected in this post.

Jack: By The Fireplace by Replica was my gut reflex for Jack as soon as I saw this ask. I think he’d really love the woody notes and I think he’d also like it because he has the vibes of someone who smells like a campfire in general. A quick side note, I don’t think he’d wear fragrance too much and I think Normally he would smell like Gillette shaving cream. Also heads up, Replica will be over represented on this list because I love all their frags

Sam: not a perfume by Juliette has a gun. One of my personal favourite frags bc it has no base scent really it j mixes w ur body’s natural PH. I think she’d like it because it’s entirely unique to her and also because the brand name Juliette has a gun totally speaks to her

Daniel: Either Jazz Club or Coffee Break both by replica. I really think he’d go for a heavy musky scent as frags like that tend to be both timeless and classy. I think he’s definitely the type to consider names when he buys frags too, so these town seem perfect for him. Also as I’m writing this I am HUFFING Jazz Club like I’m fucking Jeremy Fragrance.

Teal’c: I desperately want him to smell like Carbon by Prada. I think he’d be super into the earthy scents but not the warm earthy. Just a nice cool kind of scent but still heavy. Overall, idk if Teal’c would be 100% into frags but this is my vision.

Janet: Chanel #5 100%. I think Janet would in general go for a light, barely there scent. It’s for that reason that I think she’d go for an eau de toilette as opposed to a full on perfume bc I think she would want it to wear off a bit quicker than normal in case she gets called into work (I’d imagine the infirmary is a scent free environment)

Jonas: THIS MAN HAS 1 MILLION FOR THE MEME!!!! I don’t think he cares about notes or anything I genuinely think that he saw a bar of gold on the Jeremy Fragrance “SEXY SWEET YUMMY” clip and just added it to cart lmao

Vala: when I first saw this ask I had so many ideas for vala that I think she would just be a fragrance addict. Like obviously Black Opium crossed my mind bc I do really think she’d like a heavier scent BUT I also thought about Miss Dior for a bit of a softer more floral moment. Then, I immediately was brought to Burberry Her for a more fruity floral. And, obviously, because she’s Vala, she would 1000% have a vast collection of Victoria’s Secret body sprays. Anyway I think she would have YSL Black Opium as her signature scent but she would be at Sephora every other weekend trying out a new roller ball.

Cam: Dior Sauvage enjoyer and not because he likes it but because it’s what he was told he should like. If I were to pick a fragrance for him, I would stay away from the warmer scents and actually go for something a bit lighter and fresher. I would probably steer him towards Gentleman by Givenchy bc I really think of him as more of a fresh and clean kind of guy as opposed to such a heavy and smell-him-before-you-see-him Sauvage type of guy. Idk I think Cam would walk into my Sephora I would also guide him to Sailing Day by Replica for that fresh goodness.

General Hammond: Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Not only can he afford it but I think he’d really like Tom Ford as a brand. General Hammond seems like he’d go for more earthy and woody scents that can air on the side of overwhelming. Also he seems like he’d like sandalwood but not know it’s called sandalwood. Unrelated I think he’d be a really good client at Sephora and we’d all love helping him. He would have a beauty insider account so he can get points for his grand daughters.

Apophis: Dior Sauvage (Derogatory). Look, to my core I am a hater towards this frag. Everything about it gives me the ick. I knew what Sauvage clients were like in the store and I knew men who wore Sauvage everyday. They were both unpleasant groups of people who bought it because Johnny Depp was the face of the line. Obviously this is a perfect pick for Apophis.

#stargate #stargate sg1 #sg1 #bad stargate imagines #daniel jackson #jack o’neill #teal'c #sam carter #jonas quinn #vala mal doran #cam mitchell #general hammond #janet fraiser #badstargatereplies

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theshoegirldiaries · 5 months ago

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LOTD: Carolina Herrera Fabulous Kiss The Lipstick (Satin) in 374 Mauve Glam (with The Lipstick Cap in Purple Dream, The Tassel in Black, The Bangle and G Charm) and Dior Addict Lip Maximizer in 014 Shimmer Macadamia. #Scentoftheday Amazonian Rose EDP by Herrera Confidential, Carolina Herrera.

First impressions day 4; I've been desperate to add this lipstick to my Carolina Herrera collection, both the case and lipstick shade launched this year as a 'purple' collection. My lipstick was a bit smooshed when it arrived with some scrapes on the sides and the tip squished into the protective cap, but it wasn't properly broken, so it's still usable. Firstly though, the cap is really pretty. Purple Dream features lilac flowers on a black background lined in gold, so I bought the black tassel to compliment that (my only complaint of this lipstick line is that I'm running out of tassel colours as they haven't added any new ones) and after the disappointment of the Magical Zodiac cap (so pretty, but just a foil sticker), this one was back to what I'd usually expect from the brand. It's a welcome addition to my collection.

I haven't tried their satin lipstick formula before, but was very impressed with the colour pay-off from Mauve Glam. It has a thicker more creamy consistency than I'd expect from a satin formulation and also wasn't as shiny as other brands of satin lipstick. The colour is really pretty, nude with a hint of mauve, but not as cool or purple toned as you'd maybe expect. I'm really happy with it.

These are all 6 of my full sized CH lipsticks swatched together with their shade names and finishes on the bottom two. Fantastic Pink picked up as being much more red on camera than the fuchsia pink (super sparkly) shade it is irl. All are swatched several times on bare skin with no colour/light edits made.

With my lipstick order I was really excited to add a sample of the newest Herrera Confidential release, as I've tried many from this range and am a fan. Amazonian Rose is a Floral fragrance designed by Nicolas Bonneville and launched in 2024. Top note is Guatemalan Cardamom, middle notes are Passionfruit and Damask Rose with a base of Copal.

The opening was fruity but quickly turned very green like wet grass, vegetables or flower stems. There's something a little incense like if you smell your arm really closely and for a long time. It's one of those perfumes that I'm just not sure I want to smell like that. The smell on my arm I disliked more than the sillage, but I was surprised I wasn't picking up any rose. I resprayed at night and I did get whiffs of the rose peeking through in the opening, but it's masked by this...tomato/veg type smell (I know a tomato is technically a fruit before anyone points that out). It had strong projection for hours throughout the day. Overall it's absolutely not what I expected, I'm not sure I want to smell of vegetables and that HC DNA that I like so much in others from this line has well and truly left the building.

#carolina herrera #lipstick #makeup #dior #christian dior #perfume #fragrance #beauty #cosmetics #bbloggers #lotd #limited edition #pink haired princess

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bodyshopindia · 7 months ago

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Most Loved Perfumes By Women - Top 10 Scents for Her

Perfume is the invisible accessory, the olfactory calling card, the essence of confidence bottled up. But with aisles overflowing and conflicting opinions swirling, choosing the "right" scent can feel like navigating a fragrance forest blindfolded. Fear not, fragrance friends! This curated list unveils the best perfumes for women, each captivating the senses with unique magic:

The Timeless Icon: Chanel No. 5

An olfactive legend for a reason! This powdery floral masterpiece, with its notes of rose, jasmine, and aldehydes, exudes timeless elegance and sophisticated femininity. Think Audrey Hepburn meets modern day boss babe.

The Sweet Seduction: Lancome La Vie Est Belle

Dive into a gourmand dream with this irresistible blend of iris, praline, and vanilla. It is playful, yet sophisticated, leaving a trail of sweetness that whispers, "Life is beautiful, indeed." Try out this perfume, you will love the fragrance.

The Sun Kissed Goddess: Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gioia

Escape to the Mediterranean with this aquatic gem. Think sparkling citrus, salty air, and white florals - a refreshing burst of summer energy perfect for day or night.

The Enigmatic Allure: Tom Ford Black Orchid

A touch daring, a touch dark, and undeniably sophisticated. This rich tapestry of rum, truffle, and orchid is for the woman who embraces her mystery and leaves a lasting impression.

The Confident Muse: Dior J'adore Eau De Parfum

Show off your inner floral goddess with this intoxicating blend of ylang ylang, jasmine, and rose. It is feminine, but not girly, radiating a confident and joyful spirit.

The Whimsical Escape: Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb

Prepare to be showered with compliments! This explosion of patchouli, rose, and jasmine is a crowd pleaser, radiating sweetness and playful femininity.

Warm & Spicy: White Musk® Eau de Toilette

A cult favorite for good reason! This warm, musky scent with hints of vanilla and amberwood is both sensual and comforting, perfect for everyday wear.

Floral & Uplifting: Moroccan Rose Perfume Oil

Immerse yourself in a luxurious rose garden with this pure essence of Moroccan roses. It is romantic, feminine, and surprisingly versatile, adding a touch of floral elegance to any occasion.

Fresh & Zesty: Satsuma Eau de Toilette

This perfume of The Body Shop is sunshine in a bottle! Whether you are heading out for a busy day or simply want to add a touch of zest to your routine, Satsuma Eau de Toilette is the perfect choice. The vibrant blend of this The Body Shop perfume and crisp greens adds a burst of energy to your day.

Earthy & Enchanting: White Gardenia Perfume Oil

Capture the essence of a tropical paradise with this rich, exotic scent. The intoxicating aroma of white gardenia is balanced by subtle woody notes, creating a truly unique and captivating experience.

Take on your fragrance journey with our wide range of enchanting scents. Keep in mind, the ideal perfume is not just about the ingredients, but the emotions it inspires. The perfect perfume isn't just about the notes, it is about the feeling it evokes. So, explore, experiment, and let your confidence bloom with every spritz!

Remember, fragrance is personal

This list is just a starting point. Find the scent that makes you feel confident, beautiful, and uniquely you! Who knows, maybe you will discover your own signature scent along the way.

Bonus Tip: Don't forget layering! Combine notes from different perfumes to create a truly bespoke fragrance experience.

In case you want to purchase The Body Shop's wonderful perfumes, you can check out their website. You will get great deals on their exclusive range. What else are you waiting for? Shop today!

#Best perfumes for women #Perfumes for women #Eau de toilette #Eau de parfum

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antichristsxbox · 5 years ago

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could you write a fic where michael spoils reader with THE finest things, like gucci, Louis vuitton, dolce and gabbana, agent provocateur, diamonds, gold, etc. like GIVE YA GIRL THAT RICH BITCH LIFESTYLE, MICHAEL

Summary: I think this leans more towards Michael as a sugar daddy than anything else, to be honest. Warning— there is mentioning of smut!

From the writer: So, this is the most abstract piece of writing I’ve posted on here and nothing like anything else I have posted thus far. I’m not sure why this is what I was feeling for this request, but I couldn’t imagine writing this any other way because I didn’t just want to make this a shopping trip. I hope you like this style! If you don’t, constructive criticism is always welcome + feel free to send in more requests! If you enjoyed this, all likes and reblogs are appreciated + check out my masterlist for more fics I’ve written!

Word count: 377

“You can get the biggest Chanel bag in the store if you want it,” Michael says as he holds the door open to Neiman’s for you. The light shining down on his arm just the right way— wrist so reflective, it’s aggressive for a little clock. As you take his hand when he’s through holding the door, whoever walking past you would need dark sunglasses to avoid the glare of your matching watches. Truthfully, he enjoys shopping with you and doting on you. His gratitude and affection is shown through the extravagant items he buys you. As you’ve grown accustomed to your lifestyle with him, you only get in a car when the roof’s off. His 911 Carrera Turbo S is a perfect car for a casual shopping trip. You drop tops and let it rip.

Wake up, take a sip of Ace of Spades like it’s water, Michael’s Chanel bedsheets on the floor like it’s nothing. Yeah, he spends a lot— Balenciaga jacket, Dior shades. Versace drawers, his underwear costs more than what the average person makes in a week. Michael’s got a cum stain on his Gucci shirt, he throws it away. Gucci and Louis shoes everywhere, you don’t have any closet space. Gucci down to the socks, Off-White on your feet, all these designers on you until the ground; you can barely spell their names. You know you’re a tag chaser, but Michael gives in to your every wish. His queen, his love, he says. You would believe him, but you’ve seen him buying two of the same thing before and the second item would certainly not be for him (two perfumes or two pairs of the same Louboutins?). Despite this, you let him remain oblivious to the fact you know he’s seeing other people. Not calling him out solely because of his money, although that doesn’t hurt his case at all. But, you know you’re his favorite— he needs a girl that’ll hold him down. With his side girl— Lamborghini dreams, but she still drives a Lexus. You’re his main object of affection, but he always keeps some bitches on the side.

“When you say you love me, don’t you lie,” he says. You won’t cross your heart, you don’t want to die.

///

*** I’ve tagged you if you asked to be on my tag list or if I thought you would be interested in this fic based on interactions with my other fics/posts! Let me know if you would like to be added or removed from my tag list. :)

Tag list: @langdonsoceaneyes @ms-mead @daydreamingofcody @psychobitchtess @swampwitchh13 @ahstmblrupdates @forgivemelucifer @jocelynscloset @ccodyfern @sammy-samm @xavierplymptonsangel @lilithrmorningstar1 @slashersrus @im-the-music-whore @isometimeswrite132 @gingersnapped13 @recklessmoannn @nickiechao11 @dani5216 @antichristsqueen666 @nightsblackroses @bitchchatter @starr60 @perfectlyboring @victoriageiser @luyism

#michael langdon #michael langdon x reader #michael langdon x you #michael langdon fanfiction #michael langdon fanfic #michael langdon imagine #michael langdon smut #michael langdon american horror story #american horror story michael langdon #ahs michael langdon #michael langdon ahs #ahs apocalypse #ahs: apocalypse #ahs apocalypse michael langdon #michael langdon ahs apocalypse #american horror story fanfiction #american horror story fanfic #ahs fanfiction #ahs fanfic

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helshades · 5 years ago

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Tip of the Nose: Eaux Thicker Than Water

Today, in our great series on the history of perfume(ry) that nobody really asked me for, I reply to a simple comment and manage to make it into a very long lecture on perfume concentration. Stay yourselves with flagons!

Eau de toilette or eau de parfum, perfume is never sold pure but diluted in a water-alcohol solution. In principle, the percentage of actual perfume determines the commercial appellation. In principle.

In any case: mind the French! Your reputation may depend on it.

——————————

@katbelleinthedark:

Yes good. I have a lot of eau de toilette(s?) as I'm #poor&cheap and I never wear that as I always forget to use it. I once had the same bottle for 13 years.

Well, I occasionally wear perfumes from bottles issued in the 1970s and 1980s, so if the old bout of snobbery catches you off-guard sometime you can still pretend it is ~vintage~ juices you’re keeping. I’ve just placed a bid on EBay for a ‘perfume extract’ bottle of Jean Patou’s mythical Joy (definitely not the horrid recent Dior release of the same name) that was left unopened in a shoebox for decades, meaning there’s no way to tell if it’s actually wearable or not. I have issues. Mostly with my banker. [Edit: as it turned out, in a cruel twist of fate, that the bottle in question was actually a dummy. The seller, overtaken by doubt, finally broke the seal open and confirmed his worst suspicions. No Joy for me this year.]

In any case, it will be eau de toilette or eaux de toilette, not eau(x) de toilettes or you’d be suggesting that you’ve been lining up jars of toilet water on some cupboard shelf for years—not that I be judging, but still. Others might.

Although, technically, les toilettes in reference to the crapp... er, the loo, has only been a plural since the 20th century, and it isn’t necessarily true of all variants of French since the Belgians for instance still speak of la toilette. In any, the euphemism is transparent: it’s the equivalent of ‘the lavatory’. The French version mostly comes from the locution cabinet de toilette, referring to the small, private room specifically used (by rich people) to ready themselves for the day, and gradually, as hygienic practices progressed throughout the 19th century, for hygiene purposes as well: in other words, the equivalent to the English ‘bathroom’—and indeed it ended up being replaced by the latter’s literal equivalent, salle de bain.

Jean-Baptiste Fortuné de Fournier, Le Cabinet de toilette de l'Impératrice Eugénie à Saint-Cloud, 1860. Or when you realise that First Empire style is basically Donald Trump’s bathroom meeting Regency fashion.

No, the toilette of eau de toilette is a more direct reference to the cosmetic aspects of a noble’s routine, as la toilette since the end of the 17th century has referred to the act of preparing oneself to appear in public. If the word literally translates as ‘small towel’, it’s only because the toilette, between the 14th and 16th centuries, had come to refer to the fine cloth that was laid on the table where one would set all utensils meant for personal adornment. By metonymy la toilette was then used to speak of these utensils, then the piece of furniture in question (the ‘dressing table’ in English), then, abstractly, the various acts by which nobles readied themselves to appear in public. A number of paintings have portrayed ladies ‘at their toilet’.

The eau de toilette as it’s known today appeared in the early 1900s, thanks to the ‘flappers’, fashion icons of the Roaring Twenties who sought perfumes they could wear easily all day long. Technically, an eau de toilette is lighten than an eau de parfum, which is lighter than the most concentrated extrait de parfum, which used to be the only concentration available, prepared on demand for a wealthy clientèle; in more ways than one, the eau de toilette started perfume’s democratisation as perfumers began selling their products in different concentrations; for example, Chanel commercialised the already-revolutionary N ͦ 5 (created in 1921) as an eau de toilette as soon as 1924. Of course, a lesser concentration meant that the resulting product was cheaper, sometimes considerably.

Perfume extracts contain 20–40% essences diluted in almost pure alcohol (90° at least), meaning that only a dab suffices to perfume someone for most of the day. If the product contains rare essences (which is to say, when raw materials were scarce or if the extraction process was particularly delicate), a dozen millilitres may cost ten times the eau de toilette’s price! Jean Patou’s Joy, first released in 1930 to exorcise the 1929 crisis that deprived the famous French couturier of most of his American clientèle, was advertised as ‘the costliest perfume in the world’—a slogan created by American columnist Elsa Maxwell, a good friend of Jean Patou (and incidentally a pioneer of the treasure-hunt party game, for those interested). A bottle of only 30ml of perfume extract required 10,600 jasmine flowers and over 300 roses, and these only were the main ingredients! Current price of the extract: €1,000 ($1,121)... In passing, the two top consumers of natural jasmine today are houses Chanel and Patou, which both have their own private jasmine fields in Grasse.

Traditionally, perfume is described following three stages in the perception of particular ‘notes’, that is to say, the most discernible odours which tend to be more easily scented right after spraying, or on the contrary ones that can be smelled on the skin long after the others have evaporated: the ‘head notes’ (notes de tête) or ‘top notes’; the ‘heart notes’ (notes de cœur) or ‘middle notes’; and the ‘base notes’ (in French the notes de fond, ‘bottom notes’. The unfortunate yet I suppose unavoidable comparisons with a certain portion of human anatomy may well have decided that English-speaking perfumers should stick to a plainer term). Certain molecules are extremely volatile and can only be perceived for a few minutes after spraying, others are rather more tenacious and serve as a structure for the whole assembly. In a typical extract, top notes will make for 20% of the perfume, middle notes around 30%, and base notes, 50% of it.

On the other hand, the normal composition of an eau de toilette today will be around 50% top notes that evaporate almost immediately, 30% middle notes that last for about fifteen minutes, and 20% base notes that won’t last the whole day. This can also be explained by the fact that an eau de toilette only contains 10% maximum of concentrated perfume, diluted in a 50°–60° alcohol solution. Closer to the extract is the eau de parfum, which contains 7–14% perfume, dissolved in 90° alcohol (almost as much alcohol as in the extract). Head notes make for 40% of the fragrance, the heart is 30% and at the bottom, 30% as well. The beginning is usually intense but the scent will still fade quicker than in an extract... Nevertheless, still more affordable than any extract.

By the way, the real reason why we have eau de parfum in the first place isn’t so much the need for a middle ground between extracts and the lighter eaux as... the delicate matter of French taxes on luxury goods, which passed the 33% threshold in the late 1970s. To circumvent it, in 1978, Cacharel released its new perfume Anaïs Anaïs in two distinct concentrations, the regular eau de toilette and the novel eau de parfum version. An interesting side effect of it was that with this new concentration, the fragrances weren’t quite identical, either. For example, the eau de parfum version of N ͦ 5 which Jacques Polge created in 1986 was made following the traditional recipe of the extract, except the accrued sweetness of the vanilla noticeably emphasised the vivid citrusy head. Some women got into the habit to buy both versions of a perfume, reserving the more concentrated one to the evening or special occasions, for instance. Although, quite frankly, in the 1980s, the eaux de toilette were many things, but ‘office-friendly’, they were not. (Will elaborate, one of these days.)

Alembics and a bed of roses at the Fragonard factory. House Fragonard, founded in 1926, is one of the oldest perfumeries in Grasse, the oldest being Molinard (est. 1849, which makes it one of the oldest in the world).

I’m sure @thatiswhy will be thrilled to learn (or be reminded of the fact) that the mother of all alcohol-based perfumes is known as ‘Queen of Hungary’s water’, l’eau de la reine de Hongrie, maybe created in 1370 as a consequence of the European discovery of ethyl alcohol, or to be more accurate, the invention of the double distillation technique allowing one to separate in the alembic the ethanol from the foul-tasting esters. Before that, distillers added to their spirits such strong spices as anise or juniper berries, for instance, which covered the bad taste. In passing, the process of boiling a distillate several times is called cohobation, borrowed from alchemical lexicon (the etymology of Medieval Latin cohobare, as often is the case in this domain, is Arabic: كُهْبة, cohba, ‘brownish’, referring to the darker tint of the distilled liquid).

It is entirely possible that the initial recipe was based on an old formula for a rosemary tincture: the flowers were macerated in alcohol, but there was no distillation. This recipe was notably recommended by famous physician (and religious reformer) Arnaldus de Villa-Nova (c.1240–1311), who taught for many years at the prestigious Montpellier School of Medicine, before moving to Paris. He is, incidentally, credited with translating a number of medical texts from Arabic. He wasn’t the inventor of alcoholic maceration, of course, but his writings are an excellent illustration of what learned people thought to be good for the health at the time. Most often, there was little distinction made between substances that smelled good and remedies, and even in the 18th century perfume could still sell as an in-and-out panacea. The term elixir (borrowed from Arabic as well though the etymology is Greek), initially referring to a medicinal powder, was used in alchemy to speak either of the philosopher’s stone or a substance liable to cure all ills. Eventually, elixir came to refer to any alcoholic maceration of herbs, spices or fruits later distilled, to be employed as a medicine.

Historians have passionately debated which Hungarian queen exactly this miraculous ‘water’ was made for. It may have been Elizabeth of Poland (1305–1380), wife of Charles I Robert of Hungary. A popular legend had it that Queen Elizabeth obtained it from an angel and that it was so efficacious that she received a marriage proposal from the king of Poland at age 72—but historians have suggested that the confusion might stem from the fact that Elizabeth was named regent queen of Poland by her son in 1370...

Yes, alright, the legend might have been made up by perfumers who made an augmented recipe into a speciality of Montpellier during the 17th century; indeed, the first mention of it is found in 1660 savant books, at a time when the eau de Hongrie has become a favourite at Louis XIV’s court in Versailles. By that time, the old rosemary elixir was a more complex preparation, including marjoram, sage, lemon balm and cedrus. No matter the recipe, though, the use was unchanged: it was meant to be consumed or rubbed all over one’s skin, and expecting to heal migraines, various feminine vapours, rheumatisms, tinnitus, gout, palpitations, jaundice... (list far from exhaustive) up to the plague itself! Not to mention, of course, its many cosmetic advantages.

Note that such prestigious reputation isn’t completely unwarranted: ethanol is known today as ‘rubbing alcohol’ and ‘surgical alcohol’ for a good reason. Even though it is ineffective against bacterial spores, ethyl alcohol works well as an antiseptic against most fungi and bacteria, as well as a lot of viruses, killing organisms by denaturing their proteins and dissolving their lipids. This is a reason why spirits are known in several languages as ‘waters of life’: compare French eau de vie with Irish uisce beatha, for instance. In passing, alchemists were only trying to discover the recipe for an elixir of youth, you know.

Actually, the closest the perfume world can get to the infamous ‘Kit Marlowe really was Shakespeare’s plays unless it was all De Vere’ cross-century quarrel may well be the neverending bickering between the respective heirs of the Feminis and Farina families, since we may never know who invented the eau de Cologne, only that it became a huge sensation without ever needing to hire a very bored-looking, starving, overpaid actress to pout next to a bottle of it for it to become the talk of several countries, and a bit of a misnomer.

Versions diverge and (oddly credible) documents abund, but here is the most diplomatic variant of the story: one Giovanni Paolo Feminis, born in 1666 in northern Piedmont, emigrated to Germany where he opened a distillery in Cologne in 1693, in which he sold diverse scented waters, including a special aqua mirabilis (‘marvellous water’) made from rosemary, melissa, bergamot, orange blossom, lemon and citron essences in spirit. The true origins of this formula are unknown, but it’s hard not to think of the Florentine basilica of Santa Maria Novella, where the Dominican monks opened a perfumery in 1612 (which still exists today, making it the oldest perfumery in the Western world) in addition to the mediaeval apothecary office where sold essences, elixirs, balms... This pharmacy was already active in the 1300s, when historians found traces of rose water being sold by the friars to help repel the plague. Dante Alighieri (1265–1321) was a frequent customer of the time.

The convent's most prized product was probably created to honour Catherine de’ Medici when she left for France in 1533 to be married to the future King Henry II (she would be Queen of France from 1547 till she was widowed in 1559, after which she ruled France as a regent for her second son Charles IX, officially and officiously. She was an impressive bitch, Kate was) and took with her an Acqua della Regina in which citrus essences predominated, bergamot in particular. This is, indeed, very reminiscent of the ‘marvellous water’ which the Feminis distillery sold in Cologne in the late 1600s as a digestive and hepatic remedy, an antiseptic and a painkiller. Business was successful and Feminis was even named an honorary member of the Cologne Chamber of Commerce. Nevertheless, the perfumer died heirless in 1736.

In 1709, Piedmont-born Giovanni Maria Farina (he came from a village which his family co-founded near Feminis’ hometown of Crana) came to Cologne, where his brother Giovanni Battista traded luxury goods; Giovanni Maria was meant to lead a subsidary of their export company dealing toiletries imported from Italia: soap, perfume, face powder, and also wigs, lace, silk stockings, tobacco boxes... In that time, Cologne had the enviable status of a ‘free and imperial city’, which is to say it was subordinate only to the Holy Roman Emperor, as opposed to territorial cities which had to answer to territorial lords. What that meant for commerce was that by the time the Farina family established themselves in Cologne, Catholic foreigners trading in luxury goods—which meant gold, silver, silk and perfume—were welcomed with open arms. The privilege was abolished under French occupation (1794–1814), meaning that anyone could settle; one of the direct consequences of this was a significant rise in eau de Cologne forgery!

The famous ‘John Maria Farina opposite Jülich's Square ltd.’ perfumery (one of the oldest active perfumeries, too) notably sold an Aqua admirabilis whose invigorating freshness contrasted with heavier classical perfumes. A hydrolat (a result of steam distillation alongside essential oil, ‘flower waters’ are less concentrated than the latter and ideal for use as a lotion) added with brandy (eau de vie), Farina’s ‘admirable water’ contained rosemary, thyme, absinth, marjoram, melissa, lavender, angelica, hyssop, fennel, juniper berries, anise seeds, nutmeg, clove, caraway, nutmeg, clove, as well as lemon peel and bergamot oil... In spite of the impressive list of aromatic herbs, the Admirable Water is led by a sweet yet fresh citrusy scent. ‘I have created a perfume which is reminiscent of a spring morning following a soft shower where fragrances of wild narcissi combine with that of sweet orange flowers. This perfume refreshes me and stimulates both my senses and imagination’, Giovanni Maria wrote to his brother back in 1708.

By the time the Faculty of Medicine of Cologne officially recognised the great healing property of that perfume in 1727, Aqua admirabilis was renowned across Europe as Eau de Cologne, adored in every royal or imperial court. The first delivery to Paris was made in 1721 but the perfume became very largely diffused in France during the 1733–1735 War of the Polish Succession (between the Habsburgs and the Bourbons, and France was heavily involved because contender Stanislas I, disgraced former king of Poland, happened to be King Louis XV of France’s father-in-law...), thanks to French officers.

Under the reign of Napoleon I, when Cologne’s privileges were abolished, suddenly there were Eau de Cologne counterfeiting everywhere in town—it bears reminding that there was no such thing, at the time, as intellectual property... In the space of a few decades, nearly 2,000 forgeries were sold! Emphasis was put on the supposed medicinal virtues of the perfume, in an attempt to distance the concurrence. However, that did little to damage the success of the original preparation. In 1806, a grand-grand-nephew of the creator, Giovanni Maria Giuseppe Farina (also born, in 1785, in the family town of Santa Maria Maggiore) founded a perfume shop in Paris, rue Saint-Honoré, as ‘Jean-Marie Farina’. Quite interestingly, in an early brochure he claimed to be the great-grandson of Giovanni Paolo Feminis; which was, in all likelihood, meant to shut down rumours that the rights to the original Eau de Cologne should go to Feminis’ legal benefactors. True or not, Jean-Marie—who was one of Honoré de Balzac’s sources of inspiration for his character of César Birotteau—obtained in 1806 a contract to make and sell an ‘Eau dite de Cologne’, a ‘so-called Cologne water’, which was met with immediate success. Two years later, he had become Imperatrice Eugénie’s official perfumer, and he famously made for Napoleon I the ‘Emperor’s roll’, a special bottle that he could slip in his boot.

‘Cologne water is usually employed pure, or mixed with water or wine, depending on the circumstances. Its quantity must vary as well, for internal use a few drops with sugar or water, a teaspoon. For external use, doses are more considerable. It is used in liniments, frictions, unguents, localised or general baths, enemas and injections. For bathing the whole body, one may pour up to three bottles. In a foot bath, one should suffice. In an enema, in injection, one or two spoonfuls.’

— from a 1825 brochure...

In 1851, the authentic Eau de Cologne is sold in these small, slim bottles containing about one seventh of a litre, sealed with a cork and wrapped in printed paper with Jean-Marie Farina’s signature as well as an embossed stamp and a green wax mark bearing the arms of Prussia both on the box and on the bottle. Each bottle sold for one franc and 50 centimes, which mightn’t sound so impressive till you realise that at the time that was worth an entire year of a civil servant’s salary!

House Farina in Cologne still sells the original preparation as Original Eau de Cologne, but prestigious Parisian perfumery Roger & Gallet acquired the rights to the rue Saint-Honoré house in 1862 (which is how they became Roger & Gallet in the first place. They quickly made a name for themselves selling luxury soaps and quality scented waters), and they still sell an Eau de Cologne extra vieille. After winning a lawsuit over the right to use the name Farina in the first place, of course.

If the price is considerably less steep than what it used to be, one should also consider the fact that nowadays, eau de Cologne is a commercial appellation used to refer to an even lighter concentration of perfume than in an eau de toilette, 4–6% essences only. It is intended to be used as a lotion, a tonic for the morning, which may be a refreshing version of a perfume and worn at the same time as the latter. The citrus extracts do possess astringent, circulatory properties, not to mention their fresh, tart smell. The Extra-Vieille was advertised by Roger & Gallet in the 1960s as ‘a good friction for a good day!’ Glamourous. By that time, cologne had lost its aura of luxury. For decades it remained extremely old-fashioned, and not in the ‘retro chic’ sense... Then, in the early 2000s, fashion shifted and people began looking for ‘authenticity’, for natural smells, as well as simpler perfumes. Which, as always, is relative, since perfume overall is a luxury product and cologne by Guerlain (Eau de Cologne impériale, Eau de Cologne du Coq) for instance won’t be that ‘democratic’ an issue.

Still, my personal favourite shall remain Institut Très Bien’s Cologne à la russe, because I am weak. Also snobbish. And the perfume version, Très Russe, is one of my ultimate favourite scents of all time and space.

#aromaphilia #tip of the nose #perfume #to be continued

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thoughtfulenthusiastearthquake · 3 years ago

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Best long-lasting perfume for men

We all want our perfumes to last all day, to last for hours, and to stay on our skin all night. Some perfumes are light and only last 2-3 hours, others last so long that they become part of your clothes. Perfumes with a higher concentration usually last longer due to the fragrance oil inside the bottle. However, this does not always appear to be the case. The perfumes mentioned here are the longest-lasting regardless of their concentration to add to it, and they are also some of the best Luxury perfumes for men.

#1 Dior Sauvage

A fragrance already loved by many, which is also very popular. It earned a spot on this list for dropping it, and while it's just an Eau de Toilette, the fragrance is a beast. It has loud, vibrant bergamot at the top and a very citrusy scent. This perfume is made for all occasions and is known to please the crowd, however, this perfume is overused, so if you are trying to find a unique fragrance away from Dior Sauvage.

#2 The King T-10

With top notes of cardamom and pink pepper, you have a scent that leaves a trail every time you walk into a room, from Taif Al Emarat, The best UAE perfume that is so popular in the Middle East and for the right reasons. Middle Easterners like their fragrances to be very strong in general, so this one had to make this list due to its longevity and exposure throughout the day, and fortunately, this one isn't popular either. Luxurious Arabic perfume.

#3 Acqua di Gio Profumo

A stronger version of Acqua Di Gio, the best-selling men's fragrance, the DNA of this fragrance was much loved but unfortunately, it didn't last long enough. Therefore, perfumer Alberto Morillas decided to make a stronger version but this time he added incense as well, giving it a wonderful fragrance that is more deep and long, this fragrance is also all year round and also for all occasions. Definitely classic.

#4 Dashing T-04

Here we have another perfume from Taif Al Emarat because the brand is very popular in the Middle East, and most of its perfumes are very strong and clear. The scent of the perfume contains honey and also a very prominent oud which brings the fragrance more and more complete. Sweet and tempting scent.

#5 Versace Dylan blue

A true Versace masterpiece, it mostly contains fresh notes that are perfect for keeping you smelling fresh all day long. The complimenting factor of this perfume is great too, you can wear this perfume almost everywhere but it is also very popular so if you want something that is not normally found in every man's perfume collection, you may want to look elsewhere.

Get the most from your fragrances just like you would from your favorite shirt or shoes.

#luxuryperfume #best perfumes for men #best perfumes in uae #perfume #arabic perfume

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ourbrand · 5 years ago

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My Portfolio Experience On Personal Branding And Creative Strategies by Rokayah Al Moaliem

Nowadays, it requires a great deal of effort to produce an effective advertisement that sells. Many factors can contribute to the success of a product or service. But the top of it is building a strong brand strategy through creative advertisement.

I’ve taken the time to compose this fundamental knowledge in a single album that I call: My Portfolio Experience On Brand Advertising And Creative Strategies.

Over the years, I developed a keen interest in advertising due to how it has helped and still shaping the modern world.

The sole purpose of brand advertising is to communicate by creating public awareness to establish and build strong connections and long-lasting relationships with consumers over time.

Here, the keyword is communication. This means that the success or failure of brand advertisement is determined by how the brand communicates with the public.

So, let me take you on tour as I will be showing you some of the fascinating experiences I garnered from relevant advertising classes so far.

Throughout my four-year study, research, and various theses at Lasell University, I learned the importance of, and how I can build an effective personal brand. This knowledge resonates so well with the communication classes that I took at Lasell.

It also became clear that while planning to build my brand, I realized that personal brand is all about establishing a credible identity that connects with the public. All this can be achieved through a viable means of communication.

I hope to connect some of the courses I took at Lasell to how I intend to build a personal brand identity for my profession.

Personal Branding Begins With Good Communication

I believe that communication processes are fundamental to human life, for it affects virtually every aspect of our life. Many of the classes I took at Lasell provided me with the opportunities needed to develop practical communication skills. For instance, I learned how to articulate my thoughts in a clearly written form.

The early stages of my study were challenging. However, numerous class presentations, such as Human communication, helped develop my verbal and non-verbal communication skills. Besides, it's just what I needed for basic communication skills as I look to establishing a personal brand for myself in the coming future.

The road to building a personal brand can be chaotic. Intercultural communication and communication research classes are two fundamental classes that helped shape my knowledge on this crucial path to successful branding.

Personal Branding And Social Media Tech

There’s been a lot of buzz about branding and social media. These days, branding and social media are like bread and cheese. They compliment each other so well with the actual result to back it up. After all, the result is all that matters the most in branding.

In one of my most recent classes, I did a project that significantly influenced my creativity on social media branding. The project involved a case study on one of my favorites brands – UGG company.

For a specific target audience, I focused on creating brand awareness for the UGG boots product line.There are three essential elements I must considered in order to achieve this goal.

I followed each process (this includes situation analysis, creative brief, and creative execution).

I conducted in-depth background research to get an insight into the company. The class walked me through the processes of creating an effective and compelling social media profile.

Developing An Effective Marketing Strategy For Personal Brand

All the talks about building a personal brand without a marketing strategy in place would be pointless. In my marketing strategy class (COM 330), I saw how crucial it is for every organization to consider some ethical questions that surround marketing strategies.

Applying these strategies would aid me in creating successful customer engagement. Also, I learned much about strategic thinking and handling competitors.

Let me share with you one practical project that helped my strategic thinking concerning building effective marketing practices. I did a project on Nike’s Air Jordan.

The “Nike Air Jordan” Marketing Strategy Project

Much could be admired about how Nike could still maintain stable ground in the sports market despite fierce competition from the likes of Adidas and Under Armor.

There’s one undebatable fact; social media is an essential piece to creating successful marketing.

Becoming a successful advertising manager requires developing and combining a variety of digital skills, including creative design. One of my classes highlighted the importance of innovative design in the way of appealing to the right audience.

I developed relevant digital skills in creative design best practices. One such digital skill taught me how to use InDesign software to design a simple advertising poster for a perfume brand with women as the target audience.

At this point, several questions begin to run through my mind. How do I design a poster that would portray Dior Perfume the way it is – a high-end luxury fragrance for women. Yet, the advertisement must persuade consumers that a less expensive Dior fragrance can be just as desirable as the costly ones.

Again, how do I communicate to consumers that they can buy this product at Macy’s?. So, I put my thinking cap on and began to put some essential things into consideration.

From what I came up with within the poster, the goal is to show that even younger women with low income can equally afford to buy this new line of Dior fragrance with the same global appeal.

The Applebee’s Grill & Bar projects is yet another classwork that enhanced my marketing skills both in creating and designing an effective restaurant menu.

For example, I learned the importance of product priority and writing clear and concise content descriptions. Did I also mention that I dabbled a little into the copywriting niche? Let me show a few fascinating things I did in the Applebee’s Grill & Bar’s menu.

I highlighted the bestselling items first and placed are neatly arranged in categories, each with its pricing tag.

For this project, you would probably notice that I have made significant improvements with my graphic design skill.

Intercultural And Professional Communication Classes Helped Shaped My View On Group Work And Collaborations

Working alongside my classmates has exposed me to a new culture, new people, unique personalities, and new ideas. It does not matter my ability and skill; team collaboration is crucial.

The truth is, I may not be the outspoken type of person, but I learned to be more social, accept people, and see the uniqueness of each group member. From my group members, I learned how to use new digital tools and how best to approach projects.

About a year ago, with my group, we did a “Care on the Go Advertising Campaign” project for the “Envior Natural SkinCare” product. The product exposed me to making in-depth research such as product research, company research, competitive research, before starting on a project.

The Go Advertising Campaign Care on “Envior Natural SkinCare”

From the project, I understand the big concept and practices of advertising, such as brand mission statement, target market, and campaign strategy. Getting the right campaign strategy is the most challenging part of the project.

This allows me to apply some of the things I learned in class, but we have to get through it together as a group. For instance, we have to think about creating a unique brand identity from color matching to logo design, to social media ads, and media planning.

The good thing, though, is that collaborative effort paid off. We delegated the project in bits and agreed on an agreed time for submission. Each member was able to bring ideas to the table, and this helped me a lot.

Learning From Experts In The Field Of Advertising

At some point in my life, I had to meet with the experts to tap from their vast wealth of experience. Thankfully, one of my courses opened the door of opportunity. Along the way, my experience further develop my skills in personal branding as a communication tool. I undertook an assignment in the field to interview with Prof. Frank Irizarry.

He is the Assistant Professor at Suffolk University, who has had over 25 years of experience in the Advertising profession. In my interview with Professor Irizarry, I learned a great deal from his experience in advertising and public relations.

Among many things that stood to me were his passion, resilience, creativity, and readiness to accept scrutiny from others. He then advised me to be creative and focus more on group testing.

I would not fail to mention that Prof. Irizarry has an excellent eye for innovative and effective advertising. He would always refer to the acronym “MMP” which means “message, medium, public,” alluding to the importance of synchronizing these three concepts to make compelling media choices.

The professor equally stressed that to be successful in the advertising field, it is essential to get people to buy a product—and that is what measures the effectiveness of the advertisement.

Above all, I must state that the conversation I had with Prof. Irizarry was an excellent eye-opener for me, and I gained new insight into what it takes to be a successful professional advertising Manager.

Then comes another expert I learned from, the author of the book, The Creative Process Illustrated: How Advertising Big Ideas Are Born. Early in the semester, I took a course on creative advertising.

For one thing, I’ll admit that the book helped mirror down the process of advertising so tightly that I can see the solutions to advertising challenges right before my eyes.

The book got me hooked by the way it examines how different creative directors, advertising copywriters, and some other great artists and thinkers tackle the problem of being creative.

The book illustratively inspired me to visualize my search for a great idea in the advertising industry. A part of the book says: “Creativity is advertising’s most valuable resource.” How true that statement was! While self-creativity is crucial, I learned that I could also get an insight into another person’s creative ideas to help polish my own.

Something else I gleaned from the book is that I need to develop skills beyond just putting my ideas into writing, crafting the ideas out like a graphic designer. Above all, the book is quite insightful and full of creative perks, especially for an aspiring advertising manager like me.

So, I worked more on improving my creativity. Gradually, I began to learn that I would need some tough skin to be creative and to stay relevant in the advertising field.

Content creating is one of the toughest challenges I have. First, my English needs to stay sharp for people to read and respond to the message I’m trying to pass across.

Then again, content creation is not all about what I want but what my target audience want. With my little knowledge and skills gathered from relevant courses in school, I saw where exactly to improve and to work hard to being consistent.

Final Thoughts

Above it all, brand advertisement is about creativity and putting ideas to work. I know I still have a lot to learn and improve on. But what matters most is that I keep learning and developing in my skills.

#branding #personal branding #advertising #capstone project topic

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aclut · 5 years ago

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Photography by Sandro Altamirano

The Dutch design duo talk inspiration, muse and and everything in between.

By Natasha Bruno

Date April 20, 2020

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Fragrance has long been about fantasy, and for fashion duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of the Amsterdam-based luxury couture house Viktor & Rolf, that figment is an extension of oneself. “Through fragrance, one can communicate without speaking; it can trigger memories and emotions,” say the synchronized Dutch visionaries (they have a habit of finishing each other’s sentences) over tea and pastries in their Four Seasons Hotel Montreal suite, where we meet to discuss their newest launch, Flowerbomb Dew. Fragrance also carries sartorial-esque powers. “The choice of perfume—sweet, fresh, big, discreet—says something about the wearer, just like a well-chosen outfit.”

In 2005, Horsting and Snoeren dropped a bomb that disrupted the fragrance world with both its design and scent. Their iconic Flowerbomb—an unapologetically sweet oriental floral housed in a hand grenade-shaped bottle—marked the very first perfume for their eponymous label. “We perceive design as a laboratory in which to experiment and push boundaries,” reflect the designers. “In doing so, you surprise yourself and create something new and exciting.”

Photography courtesy of viktor & rolf

Since its successful debut well over a decade ago, the original over-the-top floral, which is laced with jasmine, orange blossom and patchouli, has racked up a cult following, and several quirky and attention-grabbing flankers and limited editions that echo Horsting and Snoeren’s collective boundary-pushing vision have since followed. “Our aim as fashion and fragrance artists has not changed over the years,” say the duo. “We aim to be original and to make expressive and bold statements. We have always translated our brand’s DNA into our fragrances, with the mission to create spectacular beauty.”

This spring, the designers have deployed a brand-new rendition of their signature grenade. Dubbed Flowerbomb Dew, it is a more delicate floral revamp of their olfactory ways. “The Flowerbomb Collection is a family with various intensities; you have the classic, which is an explosion of flowers, and now we wanted to create a ‘sister’ for a person who likes Flowerbomb but wants something a bit softer,” explains Snoeren, who describes Flowerbomb Dew as having a more rose-filled aroma.

The designers called upon leading perfumers Domitille Michalon Bertier, Carlos Benaïm and Dominique Ropion from the Manhattan-based International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. to help them conceptualize the bouquet. And like the eye-catching pearly-white bottle, the new juice inside is an equally artistic feat. First comes a swoon of juicy pear and bergamot essence, followed by a “dewy rose” accord (a hybrid garden rose from the tea rose family that’s grown in water) and iris at the heart. Eventually, a musky and woody drydown settles on the skin for an aura that’s “intimate and personal.” As for the wearer of this floriental musk? “We envision someone who is intelligently glamorous and daringly chic—an icon in their own right,” say the designers.

Anya Taylor-Joy is the face of Viktor & Rolf’s new Flowerbomb Dew. photography courtesy of viktor & rolf

In the same way that scents can trigger vivid memories and visceral connections to something, so, too, can fashion-forward, bar-raising perfume campaigns for these designers. “Fragrances in general were like my portal into the fashion world,” reminisces Horsting about his younger years. “The ads were always inspirational.” The most memorable image for Horsting? Dior’s 1985 launch of Poison, a spicy floral spritz housed in a spherical purple bottle. In the accompanying visual, a model poses with her arms artfully crossed while her hands clutch multiple flacons. “That is a visual I clearly remember,” he says. “I could look at it for hours.”

As for Snoeren’s favourite vintage-campaign moment? Yves Saint Laurent’s 1977 print ad for Opium; it’s fronted by legendary model Jerry Hall, who’s photographed lying in the foreground of the scenery. “It’s extremely opulent, with orchids and gold—it’s insane,” says Snoeren.

Visual storytellers by nature, Horsting and Snoeren tapped American actress Anya Taylor-Joy to capture the ideas of their modern Flowerbomb Dew juice. “Anya perfectly embodies the message we want to share,” voice the duo. “She is sensual, mysterious and powerful all at once. To us, she reflects a determined, outspoken and self-aware woman impeccably.” For the campaign, a fresh-faced Taylor-Joy, clad in a ruffled blouse, draws attention in a radiant but subtle way. And for an actress who has carved a successful niche for herself starring in dark thrillers, it’s a different kind of expression. “In everything we do, there is an element of contradiction; transformation is key in our work,” explain Horsting and Snoeren. “Flowerbomb reflects this approach. The name is a paradox: It’s a modern kind of flower power.”

BACKSTAGE PASS

Like their fantastical, avant-garde designs, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have an artful way of blessing showgoers with tantalizing hair and makeup. Ahead, some of the designers’ most unforgettable looks.

Fall 2004

“We did a collection where all the models were transformed into deer and had antlers. The beauty look was as if they had big, wide, furry eyes. It was really beautiful.” – Viktor Horsting

Spring 2012

Models’ eyes were emphasized with hot-pink faux lashes for a “modern doll” look.

Fall 2016 Couture

“For us, a show is not a parade of the designs for the new season. It’s really storytelling, where the clothes and models are actors in a play. This 10-minute moment is something where we want to transport the audience into a different world.” – Viktor Horsting

Spring 2018 Couture

Wispy, windswept braids were accented with delicate colourful flowers for a head-turning hairstyle.

Fall 2019 Couture

“With our Fall 2019 couture collection, we explored the notion of conscious design in ‘Spiritual Glamour,’ referring to a magic spell. In this case, the spell was cast to transform a general feeling of doom about the environment into a positive action.” – Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren

Spring 2020 Couture

“Our most recent couture show was soft and romantic, with frills, and inspired by writer Laura Ingalls Wilder and illustrator Holly Hobbie from Little House on the Prairie. The hair spelled romance, but then we added fake facial tattoos to give the models an aggressive edge—except all the texts of the tattoos were positive affirmations and words. The look was tough and complex, but the message was positive.” – Rolf Snoeren

Buy Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Dew here.

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Get to Know the Latest Fragrance from Viktor & Rolf, Flowerbomb Dew Photography by Sandro AltamiranoThe Dutch design duo talk inspiration, muse and and everything in between.

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restless-in-paris · 5 years ago

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Jojoba in my hair

and other rituals for self-care…

One breezy morning, towards the end of my first month after moving back to Paris (September, 2019), I noticed that the dandruff in my hair was starting to get out of hand. My hair was severely dry and badly in need of some nourishment. Which is why, a certain Friday evening, I went to a store in Gare du Nord - the Indian/Sri Lankan neighbourhood of Paris - to look for some hair oil. I entered this particular store called VSCO Cash and carry - if I remember correctly. The store was full of people, full of familiar and not-so-familiar sounds, smells and skin tones. I spent some time just making my way through the crowded aisles just to get a gist of the place initially, before finally looking for what I actually came there to buy. In the second aisle, towards the corner, I finally found a shelf with a variety of hair oils. The regular ones - coconut and almond - as well as more exotic ones - tea tree oil, cactus and jojoba. I started doing a little pro/con, SWOT analysis in my head to decide which oil I should get and how much of it. I often go into deep pondering states like this while shopping, to be REALLY sure of my choice. Which is why I prefer to shop alone I guess. After much thought and deliberation (and some ad-hoc googling) to choose between the regular Parachute oil and a new, Vatika jojoba oil that I hadn’t seen before, I went with the latter. I bought two bottles of it. While at the cash counter, I made sure to follow my instilled french étiquette of wishing bonsoir and bonne soirée. All this while the khayali pulao in my head was seasoned with sounds and syllables from Marathi, Tamil and Mandarin by the other people waiting in the queue. I stepped out of the store, and took the metro back to place de la Nation.

That night, before going to sleep, I opened one of the small bottles of Jojoba oil to massage some of it into my hair and let it stay overnight. There was a sweet, rich smell that emanated from the chartreuse yellow liquid. I took some in my palm and rubbed it gently into my scalp and the roots of my hair. My roommate asked me what the smell was. He didn’t seem to particularly like it. There are some people in this world who have different tastes, and then there are some who don’t have any at all. I replied it was the oil, and he asked me to open the window to let the smell dissipate. I did so.

The next morning, I washed my hair with some egg shampoo, dried them and put some oil back again. It felt nice. It seemed as though my hair had been thirsty since a long time and that now their thirst was finally quenched. I stepped out into the Saturday morning air and walked towards the Carrefour store near my house. As the wind blew over my hair and by my face, I felt grateful for that moment. And for all the million moments of self-care, repair and reflection that living in this city allowed me.

After a week or so of applying the jojoba oil to my hair, my dandruff had virtually vanished! I was amazed at how effective it was. And that’s why to this day, every morning or night, I rub a little jojoba into my hair to keep them nourished and healthy.

Self care ritual #2 Cooking with love, eating with gratitude

In a couple of months, I have progressed enormously in terms of what I cook, and how much attention I pay to what I eat and how I make it. Being inspired from the international environment that I get to live in - whether it’s seeing a spanish girl using ‘Laurier’ leaves as a seasoning, or seeing my Czech friend Markéta make a zucchini tarte - I have started experimenting and creating recipes of my own, combining Indian cooking techniques (the little that I know thanks to my mother) with local ingredients that I find here. Last year I posted about my Poha made with hazelnuts. In this section I’ll take you through some of the other food I’ve been cooking for my meal prep routines.

#1 Pulao with laurier (bay laurel leaves) and échalotes (shallots)

This was a pulao that I made where I just replaced the onions with french shallots and bay leaves (tejpatta) with laurel. The result was this rich and flafourful rice with a beautiful harmony between hints of European and Indian tastes.

#2 Pâtes Gratinées (Gratin of pasta)

This was a gratin of pasta that I had made because I didn’t want to make regular, lazy student-pasta. Making a gratin is a rather french cooking technique in which you cover something with béchamel sauce and top it with a layer of cheese and then bake it. Undoubtedly, a gratin of anything becomes very filling and acquires a rich creamy texture (along with fats, but that’s okay as long as your portion sizes are humble). And this turned out to be a very successful experiment because this was literally the first time I was even using an oven. It tasted pretty good and the persil (parsley) added just the right kind of seasoning it needed. The next day when I made my boss taste it, he was visibly delighted as well and commended me on having upgraded my cooking to a new level. Ah the little joys of life.

#3 Tarte aux légumes du soleil (Tart with vegetables of the sun)

This one is partly a combination between a recipe I found on marmiton.org (a french recipe website), a recipe by my friend Markéta (from the foyer where I live) and my own taste. I made this quiche with a combination of vegetables known as ‘légumes du soleil’ (vegetables of the sun) for some reason. This includes zucchinis/courgettes, bell peppers, aubergines and tomatoes. It might be interesting to find out why it is called so. Perhaps because these vegetables are grown in sunnier parts of Europe? In any case, the resulting quiche again made for a nice, creamy and fairly healthy meal. My own twist on the recipe was to add oregano seasoning, mozzarella cheese and replace the aubergines with mushrooms.

Self care ritual #3 Mental and emotional self-care

When you move to a new place, no matter how much you love it and how eager you are to integrate yourself, there are some emotional and mental bumps that you need to take care of along the way. Currently I am working on creating mental and emotional self-care routines to deal with these. Different people have different coping mechanisms for managing their emotional and mental health. Some people meditate, others do drugs, alcohol or other substances, some people might binge-eat, indulge in social media, have boyfriends/girlfriends, exercise, or engage in a hobby and so on. This year, I have decided to engage in writing, exercise and introspective walks to create new self-care mechanisms for my emotional well-being. Along with talking to friends of course. Which goes a really long way.

One of the mental bumps I’m currently facing is dealing with the phenomenon known as french "humour". The french sense of humour seems to primarily rely on a sort of irony that’s always expressed with an extreme poker-face and is intertwined deeply with the language itself. This makes for some tricky situations at work with a colleague of mine who is particularly adept at this sort of humour and prides himself in it. The key difference between this kind of humour and the anglo-saxon and indian influences on my sense of humour is the almost complete lack of self-deprecation. Using techniques such as ‘second degré’ which is the french term for speaking ironically, french wit seems to consider itself as a sort of verbal jousting where the objective is to bring down the opponent with pointed and nonchalant sarcasm. Whereas a more Indian/American (?) approach would be to invite someone in ridiculing a third-element, a situation or a circumstance, instead of targeting one another. I’m not sure if describing this difference as the same as ‘laughing at someone’ vs ‘laughing with someone’ would be completely correct, but it does seem to be the case a lot of times. To illustrate with an example, say, you’re walking on a street with a friend and they accidentally step on some dog poop. Now, a typical french reaction to this incident would be to say ‘Oh no, watch out, I’m gonna start smelling irresistible now’. You see the kind of extreme lack of self-deprecation and an abundance of the opposite that I’m talking about? Following this, how you react to this phrase will be key in judging your ‘frenchness’ of sorts. And mind you, it’s all the more difficult to process sarcasm and absurdity when it’s in your second or third language. Maybe a decent reply, following the guidelines of french humour, would be to suggest to your friend to give away his bottle of Dior perfume to you since he doesn’t need it anymore?

Does this sort of explain the subtle, verbal back-and-forth that I’m talking about? Now the reasons why this is creating some mental hang-ups for me are: 1) Personality dissonance In English, I’m used to being fairly (somewhat?) quick-witted and funny. Or maybe I’m not. Who am I to judge? Anyhoo, my personality in french is yet to catch up to the one I have in English. Which makes for some dissonance and angst when I am not able to express or react as effortlessly as I would in English. But, at the end of the day, this is just a matter of time and patience I guess.

2) Integration Anxiety As a fresh, new immigrant (am I allowed to call myself that yet?), I am extremely eager to integrate myself culturally to the fullest. Which becomes kind of counterproductive because of the self-doubt that this eagerness creates. Counterproductive because, being french and being funny in french seems to be all about being EXTREMELY confident in oneself and bringing the other down with shade that would be considered dad jokes by anglo-saxon standards, but a heritage of Molière by french standards (which kind of makes sense given he’s considered the dad of the french language. Like father, like son). This sort of bring-the-other-person-down attitude doesn’t work too well with my kind of self-deprecating humour and also because I’m a nice person okay? who likes to laugh WITH others and not AT other people :p. Anyhow, the point is, I need to be patient and appreciate this attempt of understanding the french funny bone that I’m currently doing. Maybe my knowledge of shade-throwing, which I’ve been blessed with as a gay man might be of help? I just need to figure out how to translate this shade-sense into french. Another crucial thing I need to do is to believe in myself and my abilities, and NOT let this dissonance and anxiety affect my sense of self because you are worthwhile and adequate regardless of the language you speak, and just the way you are. I think I have reached a point in this article where my rambling has sort of stepped into the incoherent territory. So I’ll stop here for now. Sorry for the abrupt ending but don’t worry, there’s some more exciting writing planned for this page. Keep an eye out, my few dear readers and feel free to let me know if you have any ideas for what you would like to read about.

Until later!

AJT

#france #paris #lifestyle #humour #self-care #self-love #cooking #haircare

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pinelife3 · 6 years ago

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Hunting Hinoki: A Frugal Jerk’s Perfume

This year Matt and I are being frugal jerks.

My salary is $85,000/year - after taxes, etc. this works out to ~$4,500 in my bank account every month. Of this, every month I funnel $1,000 into my holiday savings account and $1,000 into my regular savings account for investing or as a back-up if something goes wrong. Right now, I have more money (spread between my bank accounts and some ETFs) than I have ever had! It feels really good. I’m not even spending it on anything (more on that below) but it just feels good knowing it’s there because, to me, having money in your bank account symbolises things like security and responsibility.

The major change Matt and I have made as frugal jerks is not buying lunch everyday. Previously I was spending ~$13.50 every week day on salads. The salads were good (they’d put crushed up corn chips in them) but my habit was shameful. One day they accidentally double charged me so I paid $27 for a salad. The other thing we’re doing is not eating out so much - dinner out even at the pub typically costs $60 between us (for two meals and two drinks) so eating at home has helped.

My share of the rent is something like $1,300 so that leaves around $700 for everything else (food, hot water, transport, pinot grigio, Spotify, face cream, etc.). Frugal jerk has been more of a fun thing for us so far, where we joke about how clever we are for saving money (e.g. by buying the slightly cheaper haloumi at the supermarket). For me, the philosophy of frugal jerkism is centred around saving money through cunning and self-sacrifice rather than because you need to. It’s more about the joy of beating the system: the thriftiness has become its own obsession. This post on /r/frugal_jerk the other day really cracked me up - the premise was that some desperate jerk happened upon a jumbo tin of beans (enough calories for weeks!) but was so weakened by his self-immolating frugality that he was unable to carry the beans.

ANYWAY

I haven’t worn perfume in a few years because it started giving me this really cankerous rash on my eyelids - look on the horror show of my eye and despair:

Lately, though I’ve been thinking of risking it all (or at least my eyelids) to smell good again. I’m interested in perfume by Diptyque (their labels are cool) or Aesop (smells herbal and lush and maybe would be hypoallergenic?).

Most major fashion houses (e.g. Dior, Prada, Chanel, etc.) have their own perfume lines. A lot of retail stores (e.g. Target, Kmart, Zara, H&M, etc.) also have in-house perfume lines. Perfume strategy is actually pretty interesting. Perfume as a luxury good is likely the only designer product most women in the world will ever own. Every Myer and David Jones store in the country carries perfumes and makeup from Chanel and similar brands, but won’t carry any other product from these brands - no shoes, bags, jackets, or dresses. Because Myer and David Jones customers can't afford the jackets. You can buy a small bottle of Chanel perfume for ~$125 at Myer. The cheapest Chanel bag I could find is a hideous $4,420 bum bag, meaning the perfume is ~2% of the cost of their cheapest bag. At Kmart, you can buy a bottle of perfume for $5. An average bag at Kmart goes for ~$15, making the perfume ~33% of the cost of the bag. Isn’t that an interesting difference? Imagine if Chanel tried to sell perfume for $1,458 a bottle (~33% the cost of one of their bags). It would still sell (because China) - but obviously not so much of it. It’s like all of the most prestigious fashion houses agreed that the one product they would sell very cheaply (relative to the rest of their catalogue) would be perfume.

Combining my twin goals of frugality and not getting a hideous eye rash, I’ve decided to recreate Aesop’s Hwyl perfume at home.

With zero research, my planned steps are as follows:

Identify what scents/essences/whatever are in the perfume

Look up tips on how to make perfume

Acquire required ingredients and bottle

Mix it up

Test it out

Does it smell good?

Does it give me an eyelid rash?

Aesop may be savvy to the ways of DIY perfumers because they’re pretty evasive about what scents actually go into Hwyl. Here’s how they describe it:

An intriguing fragrance with a hint of eccentricity. Reminiscent of a Hinoki forest, smoky notes descend into subtle spice and dark green, earthy accords. Eau de Parfum for men and women.

Aroma

Smoky, woody, rich

Key ingredients

Cypress, Frankincense, Vetiver

The full ingredient list is as follows:

Alcohol Denat. Water (Aqua), Fragrance (Parfum), d-Limonene, Eugenol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Isoeugenol, Farnesol, Linalool. This ingredient list is subject to change, customers should refer to the product packaging for the most up-to-date ingredient list.

Fragrance? Very sneaky. According to Wikipedia, parfum is just the French word for perfume.

What are these other things?

According to Truth In Aging dot com, alcohol denat, or denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol which has had denaturant added to make it taste bad. I’d imagine the denaturant is added to prevent people abusing the product as a form of surrogate alcohol (click here for something interesting and kinda related). Truth In Aging goes on to say that alcohol denat has “a variety of purposes in cosmetics. It acts as an anti-foaming agent, astringent, antimicrobial agent, and a solvent. It also helps deliver the active ingredients of a product. Almost every type of skincare product lists it as an ingredient.”

Okay fair enough. I’ve also seen advice online (as in the video below) that you can buy perfumers alcohol. I bought perfumers alcohol online for ~$15 (100ml including shipping).

youtube

Next ingredient in the list: Water. Sounds straight forward. After that comes fragrance, which we’ve already discussed. Then: d-Limonene. d-Limonene is apparently “a biodegradable solvent occurring in nature as the main component of citrus peel oil. It has a pleasant citrus aroma and has a FDA-GRAS rating (is generally recognized as safe). Replacement for toxic solvents.”

Maybe this is weird personal hang up of mine, but I don’t think of solvents as being a thing that should go on skin. Or, at least not the skin of things that are still alive (what happens between a corpse and its mortician is none of my business). But according to Wikipedia, a solvent “is a substance that dissolves a solute (a chemically distinct liquid, solid or gas), resulting in a solution.” That sounds pretty reasonable - I guess not all solvents are paint strippers. WebMD mentions that “Limonene may block cancer-forming chemicals and kill cancer cells in the laboratory. But more research is needed to know if this occurs in humans.” The margin of error on WebMD’s article should be assumed to be high but let’s hope d-Limonene is not actively carcinogenic. In any case, I might just get some orange and/or lemon essential oil as a substitute.

Next is Eugenol, described by Wikipedia as a "colorless to pale yellow, aromatic oily liquid extracted from certain essential oils especially from clove oil, nutmeg, cinnamon, basil and bay leaf.” So in addition to the lemon/orange, we’re also in the market for some clove/nutmeg/cinnamon. That gives us a tangy, fresh fruit scent with some warmer spice. Sounds reasonable.

Geraniol is next, it’s apparently “the primary component of rose oil, palmarosa oil, and citronella oil.” As you may know, citronella comes from lemongrass (and palmarosa is similar to citronella). I don’t think of lemongrass as being similar to rose, but I’d prepared to add it to the mix.

Scent list so far:

Lemon grass and/or rose (or palmarosa if I can find it)

Orange/lemon

Clove/nutmeg/cinnamon

Next in the list is Citronella so we definitely will need lemongrass. And then maybe rose as well? (Stupidly I didn’t expect there to be so much chemistry involved in this process.) Wikipedia notes that “Citronellol is found in the oils of rose (18–55%) and Pelargonium geraniums.” I’m not even going to get into Pelargonium geraniums - apparently there are different types of plants which are both called geranium but belong to different genera (Wikipedia does concede that it’s confusing).

This has been tedious but we’re nearing the end of the list. Isoeugenol is next - sounds like something from Mordor but Wikipedia says it’s a thing (specifically a ‘phenylpropanoid’, if you’re curious) which occurs in essential oils such as ylang-ylang. Sounds easy enough to procure.

This next one sounds a little more esoteric: according to Wikipedia, Farnesol is “a natural 15-carbon organic compound which is an acyclic sesquiterpene alcohol.” Hmm okay (15-carbon!?!?!?!). Never mind about all of that, the article goes on to say “Farnesol is present in many essential oils such as citronella, neroli, cyclamen, lemon grass, tuberose, rose, musk, balsam and tolu. It is used in perfumery to emphasize the odors of sweet floral perfumes. Its method of action for enhancing perfume scent is as a co-solvent that regulates the volatility of the odorants. It is especially used in lilac perfumes.”

Uh-huh so this reaffirms some of what we already know - lemon grass, rose, etc.

On to our final ingredient: Linalool. So the bad news is that there are more than 200 types of plants which produce linalool. This makes it hard to zero in on one particular ingredient. However Wikipedia does note that the plants producing linalool are “mainly from the families Lamiaceae (mint and other herbs), Lauraceae (laurels, cinnamon, rosewood), and Rutaceae (citrus fruits), but also birch trees and other plants, from tropical to boreal climate zones, including fungi.”

So again, we’re smelling some familiar things in here. Part of what’s tricky is that I don’t know whether linalool is listed because there’s something crucial linalool adds to the mix which I need to include it for, or if they’re just declaring linalool because it happened to be in one of the other ingredients. Do I need to procure linalool, or will I inadvertently include it because it’s in citrus-y essential oils? Lush mentions it on their website saying, linalool “occurs naturally in many essential oils, such as ho wood oil, tangerine, spearmint, rose, neroli, mandarin, lemon, lime, lavender, cypress, grapefruit, cinnamon, chamomile, palmarossa and ylang ylang.” Lush indicates that linalool occurs in essential oils which makes it sound like it just happens to be there. Let’s assume they don’t have a huge tub of linalool they use to season everything.

Referring to what Aesop cited as the ‘key ingredients’ of the perfume Hwyl they mentioned cypress, frankincense, and vetiver - none of these have come up in my list so far which may be an issue so let’s dump those in too.

This article in the Australian Financial Review, which reads like a poorly disguised ad, covered the launch of Hwyl:

Hwyl is the first Aesop fragrance – and one of the first widely distributed fragrances in the world – to prominently feature the Japanese cypress tree, of which there are three native varieties. Yet anyone who has visited Japan will be familiar with the woody, evergreen aroma of Japanese cypress, particularly the scent of the most-grown tree, hinoki: it is used as a building material for temples and shrines, as an incense, in bath salts and to make rotenburo, the big, open-air tubs at Japanese hot springs.

The article also refers to a Comme Des Garçons perfume launched in 2008 called Monocle: Hinoki which also includes the hinoki scent. It’s described as “inspired by "a perfectly still, slightly chilly spring morning spent soaking in an indoor/outdoor tub at the Tawaraya in Kyoto." The fresh notes of frankincense, moss and vetiver are cut through by sharp cedar, thyme and pine, reminiscent of the boxy hinoki soaking tub.”

Checking against that list, Hwyl does sound/smell similar. The perfumer who worked on Monocle: Hinoki says of the perfume: "My formula contains cypress, pine and resinous notes. It's actually very simple."

My final scent list:

Smells I’m confident I need:

Cypress (or pine/balsam as a backup)

Frankincense

Vetiver (apparently smells like lemongrass)

Lemon grass (logically, should smell a bit like vetiver)

Rose (you know what it is)

Ylang-ylang

Something citrus (lemon, mandarin, or orange)

Something spicy (cloves, nutmeg, or cinnamon)

Smells in the maybe pile:

Pine

Cedar

Thyme

Moss (???)

Geranium

Mint

Neroli

Lavender

Over the weekend, I went to Auroma, a local shop that sells a huge range of essential oils and other thing you might need to make your own soaps, lotions, candles, etc. They sell essential oils from various brands with the cheapest oil available in store being ~$15 for a 15ml bottle. Some brands also sell blends - where basically they mix several oils into a pleasing scent and call it something like ‘Moroccan Spa’ or ‘Romance’. You may already see where I’m going with this, but if we multiply the number of perfumes above in my ‘confident I need’ list (8) by the lowest possible price for essential oils in this store ($15 - although in actuality most were around $25 - $35) then we have a base cost of $120 just to buy all the scents I need - some of these would only require a drop or two. It would be against the philosophy of a frugal jerk to spend so much on essential oils.

So I bought two bottles:

3% rose absolut in jojoba oil - this is nice but very strong. The nose boggles at what a 100% rose absolut might entail

A blend called ‘Moonlight’ which is made up of various amounts of sweet orange, cedarwood atlas, juniperberry, lavender Bulgaria, patchouli, and cinnamon bark

I ended up with cedarwood instead of cypress. In store, this didn’t seem like a major concession, but as I write this I am realising that cedarwood and cypress trees are quite different. I also missed out on frankincense, ylang-ylang, and vetiver (although I do have lemongrass which is supposedly similar). What’s tricky is that when you’re sniffing all the different sample oils, nothing smells that great. They did have vetiver and frankincense in the store, but I didn’t much like the smell. Plus, buying those would have added around $50 to my bill.

These are the different components of my perfume. I also bought a brown glass roller ball thing (pics of that upcoming) to store the perfume in.

For those wondering about the perfumers alcohol and whether the denaturant is effective at deterring would-be drinkers, I’d compare the smell to something like vodka or nail polish remover without the fake-nice smells they add. So probably no worse than any hard alcohol (for reference, I think whiskies and similar drinks smell pretty bad). I daren’t taste it (poison! death!) but I do note the bottle doesn’t say not to drink it. The label indicates that <0.25% of the 100ml is tertiary butanol (AKA tert-Butyl) and that this is the denaturant in the alcohol. According to this Q&A doc produced by the European Commission, denaturing alcohol typically involves:

“A smelling agent

A foul tasting agent

An analytical marker, which remains present (even in trace quantities) despite fraudulent attempts to remove all 3 elements above”

The doc goes on to say:

Member States backed (by simple majority) the Recommendation to use either isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and/or tert-Butyl alcohol (TBA) as a minimum denaturant to be added to alcohol used in the manufacture of certain products in cosmetic and perfume production. The denaturants should be used in products with an alcohol level above 20%, or 5% for mouthwash. These chemical agents are proven effective analytical chemical markers, which allow authorities to prove that the illicit alcohol is actually one which has been denatured and has qualified for the exemption. This is an important addition to the use of the smelling and tasting agents, which can easily be removed with charcoal and/or distillation techniques and the residual taste and smell can easily be masked. For example, some mouthwashes which contain 40% alcohol volume only use a menthol essence to "denature" them, which leaves the product still drinkable as an alcoholic "spirit". The Recommendation for the use of IPA and TBA was made on the basis of scientific advice from Member States' customs laboratories and input from other national and Commission experts, through the Fiscalis Project Group. Extensive consultations were also held with industry. The two denaturants in question are already widely used in the cosmetic sector, as well in other industrial sectors.

So it sounds like tert-Butyl is used to prove that an alcohol has been denatured but may not be foul smelling or tasting itself. I mean, if the purpose of denaturant is to deter human consumption, this smell isn’t doing that much to deter me (although it isn’t particularly alluring either). But that may make sense given that perfumers alcohol is intended to be used in something which makes you smell good. So perhaps this has only been denatured with a foul tasting agent? I am curious to try holding a small bit in my mouth and then spitting it out... but I will resist. I’m not so desperate for blog content that I need to start conducting perverse science experiments on myself.

Once my perfumers alcohol arrived, I got to mixing. I haven’t been overly scientific about this - there is plenty of literature online about different ratios to create eau de parfum vs eau de toilette (the latter has more water and less fragrance) but the little roller tube is pretty small and measuring things proved tricky because I was dealing with pretty small quantities anyway. My rough process was:

Add ~5 drops of the rose absolut oil

Add ~20 drops of the Moonlight blend oil

Add water so the roller is half-full

Top it up with alcohol until the container is full

Shake vigorously (after replacing cap!)

This method may not have been ideal since the perfume promptly became milky and unappealing (those denaturant makers could take a hint from my work):

The good news is, my frugal jerk perfume has not inflamed any kind of rash on my eye. Because I’m not wearing it. In terms of the scent, I do like it - but I smell like a mum who just left a day spa, like I got a massage and all of the essential oils the masseuse used have soaked into my skin. Driving home from the spa I find that I am struggling to grip the wheel. The sweat of increasing stress mingles with the oil residue on my hands and the car fills with the rich scent of ‘Signature Serenity Spa’ blend. I try to pull off the road but my hands slide uselessly around the wheel and I think of my grandfather's sheepskin wheel cover. The road curves before me and I take a final breath of the perfumed air as the roadside barrier disembowels the car... So, I mean, it’s nice, but not the ‘intriguing fragrance with a hint of eccentricity... reminiscent of a Hinoki forest, smoky notes descend into subtle spice and dark green, earthy accords’ that Hwyl promised to be. I think the brighter smells (citrus, lemongrass) are more prominent than the smoky Japanese forest scents (cypress, frankincense) - which makes sense given that my perfume doesn’t actually have any cypress or frankincense in it.

Reader, this is the anagnorisis of this blog post. I see now that I should not have settled for cedarwood in place of cypress, should not have disregarded my own ingredient list, and perhaps should never have tried to make perfume in the kitchen sink. I also don’t think the bit about the day spa mum worked. Aristotle’s words on the nature of tragic realisation hold true to this day - to quote his Poetics: “Oh well, what are you gonna do?”

The cost of this perfume/experiment was ~$45 which included two bottles of essential oils (mostly still full), a bottle of perfumers alcohol (also mostly still full) and the roll-on perfume bottle. Even though the oils are expensive, I have a lot left and can continue to make perfumes and build towards the scent I want (in theory anyway - this experiment will end here. My interest has seriously waned. I’m just going to end up using these oils in my diffuser).

Am I going to crack and buy a bottle of Hwyl? I’m not sure - I am always very intimidated by the people who work in Aesop because they are understated and elegant and the store has a weird, ritualistic element to it (free sacrament with every purchase!) which does not awaken the capitalist beast in me.

This might also be a good time to say I’ve never actually smelt Aesop’s Hwyl before. But I’m sure it’s spectacular.

#chanel #myer #david jones #kmart #aesop #Comme Des Garçons #hinoki #perfume

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jessicakehoe · 5 years ago

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Get to Know the Latest Fragrance from Viktor & Rolf, Flowerbomb Dew

Photography courtesy of viktor & rolf

Anya Taylor-Joy is the face of Viktor & Rolf’s new Flowerbomb Dew. photography courtesy of viktor & rolf

BACKSTAGE PASS

Photography by MARTIN BUREAU/AFP via Getty Images

photography Via imaxtree

1/6

Fall 2004

“We did a collection where all the models were transformed into deer and had antlers. The beauty look was as if they had big, wide, furry eyes. It was really beautiful.” – Viktor Horsting

2/6

Spring 2012

Models’ eyes were emphasized with hot-pink faux lashes for a “modern doll” look.

3/6

Fall 2016 Couture

4/6

Spring 2018 Couture

Wispy, windswept braids were accented with delicate colourful flowers for a head-turning hairstyle.

5/6

Fall 2019 Couture

6/6

Spring 2020 Couture

Buy Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Dew here.

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