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Jeweler
Masters, Mavericks, and Visionaries of Modern Design
Stellene Volandes
Foreword by Carolina Herrera
Rizzoli, New York 2016, 256 pages, Hardcover, 23 x 17 cm, ISBN 978-0-8478-4861-4
euro 120,00
email if you want to buy :[email protected]
This stunning, glamorously designed survey highlights the artistry, expertise, and inspiration behind the work of today’s most fascinating and influential jewelry designers. Breaking out of the rarified world associated with fine jewelry is a set of contemporary designers who combine traditional skills with fresh vision, transforming artistic inspiration into wearable art. Boundless creativity and a sense of playfulness distinguish these jewelers from the pack, skills that result in pieces that are breathtakingly sophisticated and deeply rooted in each designer’s singular aesthetic. Focusing on seventeen modern masters from around the world, Jeweler reveals the unique ideas, intricate processes, and inspiration that go into their work. Curated by Stellene Volandes, editor-in-chief of Town & Country, Jeweler introduces readers to designers like the Hemmerles, a jewelry dynasty known for molding materials like copper and aluminum into one-of-a-kind collectibles; Wallace Chan, the Hong Kong wizard of stones whose patented techniques dazzle the mind as well as the wearer; Elena Votsi, an Athens jeweler who remade the Olympic medal, and whose bold metallic pieces are like wearable sculptures; and Lauren Adriana, a London wunderkind poised to become the master of her generation. Through Volandes’s vivid profiles and breathtaking images of each jeweler’s work, readers are immersed in the passion and craft that make each one a visionary. Jeweler is a stunning portrait of this fascinating niche of design, anointing the designers of today who are making the collectibles of the future.
17/12/22
orders to: [email protected]
ordini a: [email protected]
twitter: @fashionbooksmi
instagram: fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano tumblr: fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano
#Jeweler#Stellene Volandes#jewels books#Hemmerles#Wallace Chan#Elena Votsi#Lauren Adrianammasters#mavericks#visionaires#Modern Design#fashion books#fashionbooksmilano
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My paternal grandmother was a librarian. I only got to see that set of grandparents once a year as they lived out of state. I fondly remember summers spent at their house watching That Darn Cat and The King and I on loop, hunting for water skippers in the back creek, and reading the entirety of the Peanuts comics.
Because my grandma was a librarian she was delighted to foster my love of reading. We made trips to the library every week. One summer when I was seven or so I got really into this kids series about princesses all named after gemstones, each had a unique magic power.
At the end of each book was a puzzle or some extra bit of lore to decode. All of them were easily copied down in some way. Until I got to Sapphire’s book. At the end of the story Princess Sapphire was in peril! She needed a hero to come save her from a terrible fate. And there, on the last page, was a decoder device. It needed to be cut out and assembled.
I had to help save the Princess!!! In the iron grip of a fever of imagination I immediately found scissors and started carefully cutting the page. The page warned only to use scissors with an adult present and I scoffed to think I needed supervision just for scissors! I was a hero!Her plight called to me from the pages, imaginings of how I would daringly rescue the beautiful sweet Princess Sapphire ran through my little brain-
And about halfway up the page toward my goal I froze. This was a library book. I couldn’t cut a library book! What was I doing?! Even now in my memory it stands as a glaring example of the first time I mastered impulse control. Tragically, too late.
I was distraught. My grandma had a sacred duty to books and I, villain that I was, had defiled a precious tome! I wallowed for some time in abject misery, experiencing the greatest amount of guilt my tiny body had ever previously held. I’d probably go to jail. For a crime as monumental as wielding scissors against a book I wouldn’t even get dessert in jail.
Gradually, I processed my way through the grief of my vile deeds. I couldn’t have the decoder, I slowly accepted. That might be punishment enough. And I had only cut the page halfway. So it was only half a crime... It wasn’t illegal to lie when you’d aborted an evil act, right?
I didn’t know but I didn’t want to face my grandma’s potential wrath. I have no memory of my grandma ever yelling at me. I waited until the next day to approach her.
“Grandma? I finished my book and when I got to the end I saw someone had cut the page! They probably wanted the decoder because I also want that but it was very bad to cut a book, wasn’t it?”
My grandma regarded me benignly. She carefully took the book to observe it and nodded. “It’s good to see that they stopped before they cut it all the way out. Let’s go tape this together, and then I can photocopy the page and we can make you a decoder.”
I was ecstatic. Rewarded for my honesty! I created and cracked codes for the rest of summer with the flimsy paper creation we’d made. I genuinely doubt my grandma believed that I wasn’t the perpetrator, but I loved that she acknowledged that the person responsible stopped.
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do skully have pokemon?
Pumpkaboo is the obvious one, but y'know, sometimes the obvious one is the right one! (we'll say SUPER SIZE Pumpkaboo, just for fun. big pumpkin for big skeleton boy.) and another person actually also suggested Greavard, which I somehow hadn't considered, but feels so perfect that I feel like I should have. dangit.
(they can also have little Nightmare Suit costumes :D)
#art#twisted wonderland#pokemon#poketwst#twisted wonderland spoilers#lost in the book with nightmare before christmas#hajimari no halloween#(sorry for leaving anon off for a while! i've gotten a rash of spam and i'm gonna wait it out a couple days before turning it back on)#also apologies for the rest of this not really being pokemon related#i don't have anything right now for part 4 of the event so i'm gonna use this space to go off about it#because. oh man.#a sad lack of the scullsman but a FEAST of everyone else#gotta love malleus and leona uniting in the common goal of hunting trey down for trying to game their whiny pettiness#(trey doesn't know what to do with someone he can't easily distract with cake)#also further confirmation that malleus WILL kill a small child and leona WILL point and laugh the whole time#also sebek's plans revolving around what he knows he's good at: screaming extremely loudly and hoisting nerds#and let us not forget what i consider to be the crowning jewel#which is jamil figuring out IMMEDIATELY where scully has taken his prisoners#only for everyone else to just. literally refuse to do anything about it.#jamil just standing there and going 'WE KNOW WHERE THEY ARE! WE CAN JUST! GO GET THEM!!!! WHYYY AREN'T WE GOING'#visibly losing his entire mind and it's beautiful#top 10 twst event moments honestly#also some delightful character consistency from jade being all#'actually my dicking around is a sign of my immense trust in your abilities to get things done :)'#'but also consider: there are currently two housewardens chasing a child'#'alternately angrily screaming poetry and begging them not to sue'#'and if you will pardon my city of flowers...there is no fucking way i'm missing that'#lock shock and barrel did not sign up for this. how did these idiots turn out to be somehow weirder than the three of them.#twisted wonderland must be a frightening place indeed
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Betrayal as a love language >>>
#someone pls betray me in a sexy way#they’re really fighting over a jewel#kinda fruity if you ask me#I’m also kinda fruity so it’s okay I understand#the hobbit#bilbo baggins#thorin oakenshield#bagginshield#thorin x bilbo#books#movies#tolkien#fanfic
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Cumdach of the Stowe Missal (Ireland, 1025-1052) Wood, brass, silver gilt, glass cabochons;
The Department of Medieval Art and The Cloisters has in its collection a curious early 20th-century reproduction of the 11th-century Cumdach of the Stowe Missal. A cumdach, or book shrine, is an Irish form of reliquary case made for books associated with important religious figures. Only five early examples of cumdachs exist.
Held by The Metropolitan Museum of Art
#beautiful books#book blog#books books books#book cover#books#book design#11th century#cumdach#reliquary case#jeweled#treasure binding#book shrine
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Scene from How to Seize a Dragon's Jewel (2012).
The tone shift in this series was a long time coming but still gives me intense whiplash
#httyd books#digital art#illustration#fanart#cressida cowell#how to train your dragon#hiccup horrendous haddock iii#hiccup and toothless#the dragon furious#how to seize a dragon's jewel#the wodensfang
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I love the little group of misfits we got to see at the beginning of book ten!
#The fact that they had practiced fighting techniques#That involved dropping trees on people#Windwalker is so sweet#Wodensfang trying to teach toothless manners#Toothless missing the point and just adding in random “polite” words to his regular rude talk#Hiccup accidentally speaking dragonese to his mom#That one is kinda sad though#httyd books#hiccup horrendous haddock iii#Book Toothless#book hiccup#windwalker#wodensfang#how to seize a dragon's jewel
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“There's a story behind everything. How a picture got on a wall. How a scar got on your face. Sometimes the stories are simple, and sometimes they are hard and heartbreaking. But behind all your stories is always your mother's story, because hers is where yours begin.” — Mitch Albom
#f&b#rhaenyra targaryen#pre asoiaf#aemma arryn#targnation#valyrianscrolls#valyrianladies#house targaryen#targaryensource#canon rhaenyra targaryen#book rhaenyra#asoiaf fancast#asoiafedit#fire and blood#my edit#thesilverladyedit#*my thought process on this:#[aemma's color pallette is purposely warm toned. indicating the prosperity + happiness + free of danger most of her life was]#[i made her hair a more honey colored similar to her mother & grandmother. Her eyes are arryn blue with a slightly hint of pale lilac]#[in the pic with Viserys the flowers are blue for her house + Vis' jewels on his clothes a deep purple - a color his daughter would wear]#[i also chose a pose that was more formal. with less evidence of personal feelings]#[in the final pic of baby rhae I made her dress a deep red.Both as a tribute to house Targaryen+as a hint for the blood she'd have to bleed#*now onto rhaenyra's side!#[her pallete is a cooler tone; opposite of her mother's as her life starts and ends grimly]#[i made her silver gold hair purposely a bit whiter because I headcanon her son aegon iii to have taken the coloring from her.]#[her eyes are a darker shade of purple but still very intense with their coloring]#[ the pose I chose with daemon is again the opposite of her parents; personal feelings are the heart of it & the passion is clear.]#[in the picture where she holds her baby her dress is dark so it's probably not very clear but the color is the same one as Viserys' jewels#[in the final pic we see the surviving children. On the left it's aegon iii & on the right viserys II]#the wall behind them is the same color as their mother's dress.The blood that has been spilled is now behind them&they have to live with it
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A strong suggestion of plagiarism: Detailing the similarities between Anne Bishop’s The Black Jewels trilogy and Sarah J. Maas’s ACOTAR series
Anne Bishop released her The Black Jewels trilogy between 1998 and 2003. It is a dark fantasy book trilogy, part of a larger fantasy saga within the world of The Black Jewels. Sarah J. Maas released the first book in her A Court of Thorns and Roses fantasy romance series, which goes by the same name, in 2015. This popular series of Maas is still ongoing.
For the last decade, many individuals have noticed glaring similarities between Maas’ fantasy series and Bishop’s earlier books. From character names to world-building elements and plotlines, several readers have concluded it is highly possible that Sarah J. Maas has plagiarized major aspects of Bishop’s work in the ACOTAR series. For purely legal reasons, I am hesitant to say outright that Mass indeed plagiarized The Black Jewels in ACOTAR. However, I do believe that there is very strong evidence indicating that Maas may have done so. Please note all my screenshots here are all from The Black Jewels and I can provide more if necessary.
This post presents my observations of the similarities between Maas’ book series compared to Bishop’s trilogy. Indeed, there are several elements that are near-indentical in Maas’ series compared to Bishop’s. Whatever is in brackets is my shabby-MLA-esque way of referencing in which specific book you can find the content I'm talking about. I am aware others have made similar posts on Tumblr and Reddit, and I salute them! Here, I am merely outlining what I have noticed myself, and I imagine there will be significant overlap between his post and others online.
The Eyrians and the Illyrians
The Eyrians are a winged warrior race in TBJ, described as having tanned skin, black hair, gold eyes and "batlike wings". They are one of the long lived races and live thousands of years, based upon a lofty mountain range in their realm. They are a warrior race with a long history of physical fighting, often reputed to be "backward" by aristocrats in their realm (DOTB, HTTS). Their "dark, membranous" wings are the prized physical feature among their race and they have a tradition of turning to militarism and barbarism during skirmishes (DOTB). Cutting off or clipping an Eyrian's wings is the greatest torture and the worst dishonour for a warrior (HTTS). The Illyrians in ACOTAR are a virtually identical winged mountain warrior race with a similar culture and physical features including "black, membranous" wings and tanned skin (ACOTAR). The Eyrians, like the Illyrians, yearn for freedom of their expansive mountains and the war camps within them.
Eyrian males are raised to be warriors in hunting camps in the mountains, while females are forbidden from touching weapons and are confined to domestic pursuits. Eyrian women are often mistreated and are usually expected to be docile and subservient to their militaristic males (QOTD). This is the same gender construct present among the Illyrians in ACOTAR.
The Eyrians in TBJ carry prejudices against half-Eyrians, similar to the Illyrians' prejudices against "half-breeds" like Rhysand in the ACOTAR series (ACOMAF). The word “half-breed” is actually used to describe an important half-Eyrian in TBJ, Lucivar Yaslana.
The Eyrians have a practice known as the "Blood Run" which is a rite of passage taken by skilled Eyrian warriors in their mountains, rather similar to both "Nephelle's Run" and the "Blood Rite" which we learn about in ACOWAR and ACOSF respectively.
Powerful Illyrians, like Cassian and Azriel, use siphons—colourful, jeweled gauntlets that channel and hone their magical power. This is eerily similar to the way aristocrats in TBJ use jewels to channel and concentrate their power. The Illyrians also wear fighting leathers while the Eyrians wear black skintight leathers to go to battle.
Lucivar Yaslana and Cassian
Lucivar Yaslana is an Eyrian male who commands a large portion of the Eyrian troops. He is described as a "bastard", both as an insult and a jest in TBJ, because his father and his mother were unmarried and he did not grow up knowing his father who’s the High Lord. The same situation is pertinent to Cassian in ACOMAF whose "bastard reputation" precedes him.
In QOTD, Lucivar begins training Eyrian females to defend themselves and fight military-style, which is a radical move in the realm and receives a lot of push-back from fellow Eyrian males. Lucivar wants to make sure the Eyrian women tap into their strength, at least a little, to prevent them from being helpless when under attack or in battle. There's a few heartwarming training montages in QOTD where he whips them into shape. Cassian leads a similar initiative in ACOSF where he trains Illyrian women so they learn to defend themselves and some even become respected warriors.
Lucivar has gold eyes, big wings, big muscles, shoulder-length dark hair, and light brown skin. Cassian also has gold eyes, big wings, big muscles, shoulder-length dark hair, and light brown skin. Lucivar ultimately reports to the authority of his queen and serves her faithfully just as Cassian reports to authority of his High Lord and Lady and serves them faithfully.
Daemon SaDiablo and Rhysand
Daemon SaDiablo of TBJ was forced to serve as a sex slave in the court of an evil priestess, Dorothea of Hayll, and he has experienced a lot of trauma and pain for hundreds of years due to being forced to serve in the bedchamber of this abusive enslaver. Rhysand similarly serves as a sex slave to Amaratha for 50 years when she builds her court Under the Mountain. In TBJ, the evil queen who conquers the realm through cruelty and corruption, Dorothea, enslaves multiple males to serve her in bed and she even banishes Lucivar to land's brutal "salt mines" when he becomes disobedient. Daemon is known as "Hayll's whore" by the public in DOTB just as Rhysand is known as "Amarantha's whore" by the public in ACOTAR.
Daemon has jet-black hair, golden skin, and a frighteningly beautiful face. Daemon is also known as a natural Black Widow, one of the one only male Black Widows ever in their world. As such, Daemon is one of the most powerful males in all the realm. Rhysand, similarly, has dark hair, a stunningly beautiful face, and has unique powers making him the most powerful High Lord. Daemon, like Rhysand, becomes the highest ranking male in his "Dark Court" and he is also the main love interest (QOTD).
Daemon has a habit of putting his hands in his pocket when he's nervous and/or trying to intimidate people. Rhysand has the same habit. Daemon is feared for his sadism and power in TBJ but is, deep down, a good person and a devoted lover, similar to Rhysand’s persona being much crueler and sadistic than his real personality (ACOMAF).
Daemon originally starts seeing the protagonist of the series, Jaenelle, in his dreams and he recognizes while enslaved that she is the realm's salvation (DOTB, QOTD). Rhysand also begins seeing glimpses of Feyre in his dreams while enslaved Under the Mountain and he knew she was Prythian’s hope (ACOMAF).
Wingspans
We know that in the ACOTAR world, the wingspan of an Illyrian male is supposedly proportional to their, yunno, male parts. This is also the case in The Black Jewels where, in the second book, we learn a male's wingspan also corresponds to the size of his… down there.
Scents and gender
In TBJ, magical figures have the abilities to identify or smell another person based on his or her "psychic scent", which is their unique scent. The psychic scent also allows them to sense the magical abilities, emotions and traumatic experiences of other persons. Romantic couples also have a keen awareness of their partner's scent. This is the likewise the case in the ACOTAR world where mates and fae can identify and read each other based on specific scents including their arousal.
In TBJ, you can put up a "psychic shield" to stop someone from peering into your thoughts and reading you through your psychic scent. It's the same in the ACOTAR world, a concept introduced in ACOMAF, where you can put up a mental shield or barrier to stop someone like the daemati from breaking into your mind.
The males in TBJ can become quite territorial and possessive over their women and mates, almost animalistic based on their emotions. They purr and snarl and growl quite often, and Sarah J. Maas uses identical descriptive language regarding the bat boys.
Dragons and Amren
There's an older female character called Draca in TBJ who is a dragon in human form, trapped in a human body. Draca, who serves in the main character's Dark Court, has to decipher old texts in the TBJ because she is the only one who understands the ancient languages they contain. Draca is referred to as the "ancient one." This is exactly like Amren being known as the little "ancient one", a powerful angel in human form who is the only one that can decipher the Book of Breathings in ACOMAF.
There is a "creature" deep beneath the Keep and library of the High Lord of Hell in TBJ who, in HTTS, turns out to be a mighty dragon whose name is Lorn. Likewise, beneath the library in Velaris lurks Bryaxis who is a dangerous dragon-esque creature (ACOWAR).
Other worldbuilding plotpoints
There are “High Lords” of various realms in The Black Jewels and High Lord is not a traditional feudal title throughout history or mythology. One major character in TBJ is the High Lord of Hell, Saetan SaDiablo. His court, and that of his adopted daughter, is known as the Dark Court or the "Court of Darkness". Rhysand is the most powerful High Lord who presides over the Night Court which is also, in many ways, Prythian's own Court of Darkness.
The Dark Court in TBJ has a "first circle" that is comprised of the queen's most trusted courtiers. Rhysand's Court of Dreams in ACOMAF also has an "inner circle".
Jaenelle is known as "Dreams Made Flesh" because of her immense power and ability to deliver her lands from evil. Jaenelle was a saviour-figure who was dreamt up by the "dreamers" in her realm who were suffering and oppressed for many years, ruled over by cruel queens (QOTD). Likewise, the Court of Dreams and Feyre's defeat of Amarantha were, more or less, the product of dreamers who wished upon the stars (ACOMAF). Just like how Feyre possesses the power of all seven High Lords, Jaenelle is the magical figure to possess the power of all the various colored jewels in TBJ.
There is a character named Prythian in The Black Jewels who is a powerful priestess, and the main land that the ACOTAR series is set in is called Prythian. There's also an assassin-prostitute character in TBJ named Surreal, and the Suriel is character in the ACOTAR series.
The sigil/seal of Janelle's Dark Court in TBJ, we learn in the second book, is an image of a mountain with a unicorn’s horn above it. The main sigil of the Night Court in ACOTAR is a mountain below three stars. The vastness and freedom of mountains are a motif in both TBJ and ACOMAF.
Conclusion: There are others online who have pointed out the similarities between The Black Jewels and the Throne of Glass series, but it’s been many years since I read Throne of Glass and I’m rusty so I won’t touch it. Did Sarah J. Maas rip off Anne Bishop’s work? I think it could be proven in a court of law, but I’m quite hesitant to say outright that she’s guilty of plagiarism. Is Sarah J. Maas guilty of serious unoriginality? Yes, definitely. A preliminary search online will tell you that Sarah J. Maas has openly praised Bishop’s writing and she has even said that Lucivar is her favourite fantasy man of all time. Bishop's books were released when Maas was a teenager. Make of this what you will.
I’ve used a variety of tags on this post because, honestly, I’m not sure whether it falls into the “anti” category of posts or not. I think this post neutral in tone and exists just to catalogue the similarities between both series. I hence believe both fans and antis might appreciate it... for different reasons.
#sarah j maas#sjm#acotar#acosf#anne bishop#the black jewels#feyre archeron#sjm critical#fantasy books#dark fantasy#romantasy#maasverse#rhysand#book analysis#daughter of the blood#cassian#lucivar yaslana#amarantha#sjmaas#inner circle#sff books#fantasy#night court#anti acotar#anti acosf#anti sjm#anti sarah j maas
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Talking of moments that kill me, stoick's speech to hiccup in book 10...
#httyd#httyd books#how to train your dragon#how to train your dragon books#how to seize a dragon's jewel#hiccup#hiccup horrendous haddock iii#httyd hiccup#httyd stoick#stoick#book#book quotes
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"I'll be honest with you, I really didn't realise CDs were poppin still...I haven't used a CD in about, it has to be ten years!" - Ashton Irwin, June 8th 2024
#anyway she kinda went off oops#when he didn't release a cd so i decided to make my own lyric book and jewel case insert#if anyone wants it with the bleeds included i mean what hmm 👀#literally i've never posted a fan art i'm always so scared when i do pls be nice i guess aaaaaaa#5sos#ashton irwin#blood on the drums#5 seconds of summer#i'm actually so pleased with these as someone who had to google how to rotate text when i started thiskdjhfsd#graphic design actually my passion but i never have ever done anything this big#i'm so especially pleased with the insert for under the cd like the final picture is actually like#i squashed the insert and the back page into the same size pic for posting sake but like#u can see the lil roses part through the case and it looks so dope it looks so good y'all and i haven't even like#printed it on good paper yet i'm literally :')#i would rather an official any day but actually this was really fun
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Steel, gold, and jewels dagger (khanjar), 19th century. Persia (Iran). Art Institute of Chicago.
#dark academia#light academia#academia aesthetic#classical#academia#escapism#classic literature#books#books and libraries#architecture#dagger#jewels#gold#silver#19th century#persia#iran#royal core#cottage core#aesthetics#badass#princess core
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KING FRANÇOIS I BOOK OF HOURS (1578)
A dazzling masterpiece of the French Renaissance.
This small prayer book is bound in enamelled gold and gemstones. It was purchased in 1538 by King Francis I of France as a gift for his niece. The gems consist of carnelian (two intaglios and eight cameos), rubies (27 polished pieces), turquoise (24 cabochons) and rhodolite (one faceted stone in the book’s clasp that has been described as tourmaline since 1942). Most of the rubies were mined from the Mogok area of Burma (now Myanmar). Based on historical considerations, the turquoise could have originated from Persia or possibly Uzbekistan, and the carnelian from either India or Saxony. The faceted rhodolite from India or Sri Lanka, was most likely added to the clasp between 1842 and 1884. [view large]
source
#beautiful books#book blog#books books books#book cover#books#vintage books#book of hours#treasure binding#book binding#book design#french#jeweled#illuminated manuscript#illuminated
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Or my last post alternatively as Sansa! At Joffrey's wedding
#asoiaf#artshit#stark#sansa stark#agot#game of thrones#purple wedding#house stark#house lannister#I especially like the ring and how out of place it is#book inaccurate dress :( but grrm is too detailed and no way im drawing vair#hmm seem's like there's a jewel out of place
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‘On site repairs!’
Original artist: Bill Ward
Source: ‘Humorama’ (1965)
#pin up style#pin up art#comic book art#pin up cartoon#good girl art#pulp art#comic strip art#bill ward#humorama#1960s#1965#jewelers#jewellers
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The time skip in book ten has me in a chokehold again… the emotional potential is too great. Our lonely little quartet on one cold and unnamed night on the run. I actually love how this turned out but I’m still not sold on Windwalker’s design.
#httyd books#hiccup horrendous haddock iii#book hiccup#how to seize a dragon's jewel#windwalker#book toothless#wodensfang#i love them#how to train your dragon books#Httyd book art
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