#how to use tilt-shift blur in photoshop
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hi!! feel free to ignore this if you'd rather not answer it but i'm just wondering how you edit your backgrounds because they are breathtaking! there is just so much motion in your edits and i love them so much, you are so skilled <333
hi! i’m sorry it took me a bit to answer this, i kept forgetting 😭 but thank you for the kind words, i adore your editing so it means a lot coming from you! ANYWAY! i’ll get into it the best i can down below
when it comes to my edits, it really depends on the screenshot. but i’ll use my makoa edit for an example!
so, this is the original unedited screenshot. i’ll be basing my background off the horizon/ocean behind him. (also keep in mind i do this all with photoshop!)
first thing i’ll do is separate makoa from the background. (do this is whatever way works best for you, for me i use quick selection or pen tool depending on my mood) when he is selected, i'll press ctrl+j and he'll appear cut out in a new layer. it should look like this.
pressing ctrl, hover over your cut out sim layer, and click it. this will active the selection again. now, navigate to your original background layer. with the selection still active, go to select > modify > expand. expand this selection by about 15-20px. press okay! your selection will grow. now go to edit > content aware fill press okay. your original background should be filled now. (hide your cut out sim and wooo there ya go) it'll look something like this.
looks a bit funky now, but once we get into laying down the ocean/sky it'll come together in time. SO! first thing i do is grab the ocean texture i've made/edited for personal use. i'll match this the best i can to the in game ocean/adjust it to my liking. it'll look something like this.
now, i use my beloved sky replacement tool in photoshop to add in a sunset! if you don't know where it is just go to edit>sky replacement. choose a sky you like, and mess around with the settings until you get it to your liking. mine looks like this now.
now we've got our almost finished background. here i'll run some topaz/sharpen actions i have, and blur it using tilt shift.
now you can go in and add whatever you'd like. i usually don't finish my background off until i'm almost done editing, since i place everything around my sim. but here i added in the sun, some lighting, birds!
and then it'll come together in the end after shading/highlighting and color adjustments like so.
i really hope this was semi helpful?! i suck so bad at explaining things lol ;-;
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How I edit my Sims' shadow in Photoshop
as requested by @adelarsims
& based on this tutorial.
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1. Taking a screenshot
First of all take a screenshot of the Sim - I always do CAS but in-game works too ofc.
I take mine in front of a background that loosely matches the color of the background of my edit, in this case white. If you have a fancy CAS background, I recommend this CC by @sonyasimscc to easily get a simple background for screenshots.
I also use this tutorial by @katverse to get really good screenshots, I use 4000x3000px resolution, and this tutorial by @vyxated to not have a CAS UI in your screenshot if you use a reshade like me.
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2. Setting up the Photoshop file
Now in Photoshop create a file, I use 1250x2000 px.
I made a few guidelines, pink being the middle of the image and dark blue guidelines for my shadow editing.
I have a usually white background and a slight Curves adjustment layer with a gradient layer mask so it gets slightly darker at the bottom, completely optional ofc.
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3. Removing the original background
Import the screenshot and place it however you want. I try to align the Sim in the middle and make it as big as possible.
Then select the layer and go to Select - Subject.
This will usually do a decent job.
If there are some leftover unselected areas (like on her left hand on the hip) you can either add them to the selection now or edit the layer mask later.
Then create a layer mask.
Since the screenshot has a similar background, it shouldn't show too much if it is not perfect.
━━━━━━ ・❪ ☾ ❫ ・ ━━━━━━
4. Creating the shadow
First duplicate the Sims' layer (Shortcut: Ctrl + J).
The layer is probably a Smart Object, so you need to rasterize it and right click the layer mask to apply the layer mask.
Now lock transparent pixels and paint the layer black.
Next unlock the transparent pixels again and move the black layer below the actual Sim. Leave it selected.
Now you will need the Perspective Warp tool.
Draw the grid over the Sim, it doesn't have to be perfect, but make sure every part of your Sim is in the grid and nothing pokes out.
Press enter.
Now you want to drag the upper 2 corners separately wherever you want the shadow to be. I always put mine to the left and around the upper thigh area. I also try to match how slanted the left and right side are.
Now move the bottom 2 corners to try and match the shadow with the Sims' feet kinda. It won't work perfectly and you will need to fix it by hand after.
Press enter again.
Now go in by hand and fix the shadow around the feet.
Simply paint with black on the same layer and erase parts if necessary.
━━━━━━ ・❪ ☾ ❫ ・ ━━━━━━
5. Making the shadow look nice
I like to change the layer opacity to 35%, but it depends how strong you want the shadow to be.
Next I apply a tilt shift blur, unlike in the video.
I use a blur of 15px.
Move the circle at the edge of the image basically or a bit below by dragging the middle of it. Then rotate it on the bottom line by around 10°.
Next move the solid line to the middle of the circle and the dashed line around the ankles.
Then press OK at the top.
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6. Optional: Gradient layer mask
Lastly I like to make the shadow fade out a bit towards the top.
Apply a layer mask to the shadow.
Then get your gradient tool and the default black to white gradient.
Hold shift to make a straight line and drag the gradient down.
This is how I roughly place mine so it's not too strong.
━━━━━━ ・❪ ☾ ❫ ・ ━━━━━━
And that's it!
If you have any questions, let me know~
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Week 1 Edit Your First Photo
download exercise file here.
Enhance the Photo
Open a photo
File -> Open -> Locate your photo file
Mac: Cmd + O; Windows: Ctrl + O
Start Pane ->Open
Locate your photo file, and drag it onto the start pane
If you have some other open files, drag to the document tab
2. Crop a photo
C for crop
Ratio
Straighten
Uncheck delete cropped pixels
3. Improve your lighting and color by adjustment layers
Add additional layers to adjust the photo instead of just editing itself.
On the layer panel, click the adjustment layer. It is active when it is highlighted.
The adjustment layer will influence all the layers below it.
To apply the adjustment layer only on one layer instead of all the layers below it, Hold the Opt (M) or Alt (W) and move your cursor between those two layers to clip it in.
To reopen the property panel of the smart filter, double-click the thumbnail of the smart filter layer
To delete a smart filter layer
Activate the layer and hit backspace/delete
Drag it to the trash bin icon at the bottom right corner of the layer panel
Some commonly used adjustment layers:
Solid Color
Brightness / Contrast
Hue / Saturation
Levels
Gradient Map
Selective Color
4. Add a layer mask on an adjustment layer
Using a Layer mask is a non-disruptive way of concealing contents
White: 100% reveals the adjustment
Black: 0% conceal the adjustment
Select the layer mask
Select the Brush Tool
Pick black or gray depending on the percentage you’d like to remove
Brush on the area you’d like to remove
5. Color Picker
Foreground color
Background color
Set back to default: D
Swap foreground and background: X
Increase brush size: ]
Decrease brush size: [
6. Compare the before & after
Show and hide layers
Click the “eye” icon to show and hide layers
To only show one layer:
Hold (M) Opt
Hold (W) Alt
And click on the “eye” icon of the original layer
7. Save a file
File->Save, or Save as
Or Mac: cmd + S; Window: Ctrl + S
Save as a psd file
Choose a destination
Make sure “layer” is checked
---------------------------------------------------
Remove Unwanted Contents
Adding a new layer
Add a new layer with the new layer panel:
(M) Cmd Shift N -> Name it -> Ok
(W) Ctrl Shift N -> Name it -> Ok
Add a new layer and skip naming
(M) Cmd Opt Shift N
(W) Cmd Alt Shift N
Click the + icon at the bottom right corner
Layer - > New
2. Spot Healing Tool
Create a new layer to make sure the editing is nondisruptive
Select Content-aware
Content-aware will sense the content around the brushed area and autofill the brushed area with similar contents
Check “Sample all layers”
If unchecked, the spot healing tool will apply to the layer right beneath the new layer.
If checked, the spot healing tool will sense all layers beneath the new layer
3. Undo
(M) Cmd Z
(W) Ctrl Z
4. Patch Tool
Create a new layer
Select Content-aware in the patch menu
Check “sample all layers”
Click and drag to make a rough selection. Make sure the selected area is slightly larger than the unwanted item
Move your cursor inside the selection and drag the selection to somewhere that you want photoshop to patch.
Deselect the area
Select -> deselect
(M) Cmd D
(W) Ctrl D
Structure: how many details you want to preserve
Color: how much color blending you want
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Miniature Effect - Tilt-Shift Blur
Tilt-Shift
Tilt-shift is a blur effect that gives your photo a miniature feeling by adding depth of field.
Activate the smart layer
Filter -> Blur Gallery -> Tilt-Shift
To reposition the filter: drag the black and white pin
To control the blur strength -> blur slider on the Tilt-Shift panel
To control the size of the focused area: drag one of the solid lines up and down
To control the size of the blurry areas: drag one of the dashed lines up and down
To rotate the focused area, drag one of the white circles
Once you finish, click OK on the control panel.
To edit again, double-click the filter name to reopen it.
To conceal some areas of this filter, paint black or gray on the smart filter layer mask
To delete the smart filter, drag it to the trash bin icon
-------------------------------------------------------------
Color Adjustment
Black and White
Activate your smart object
Click the half-black and half-white circle at the bottom of the layer panel -> choose black and white
To add more contrast to the image, drag the sliders. Drag left -> darker; drag right -> lighter
2. Add a tint
On the black and white property panel, check “tint”
Click the square next to “tint”, and pick a color you want
To reopen the property panel, double-click the thumbnail of the smart filter layer
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could u describe ur process of digital painting? i noticed that u first paint it in greyscale, then u put colors. how does it work, how do you work around it?
Hii! Oh my God I never thought I’d have anyone asking drawing advice from me 👉🏻👈🏻 I draw for fun and because formula one is taking 90% of my brain space nowadays and I never went to art school to back up my drawing advice so don’t take it at face value. I’ll just describe how I usually do it 👉🏻👈🏻
So basically;
Searching for references (muse photos, paintings, ambience, colours) for rough conceptualisation
Super rough intelligible sketch 🤣
Normal sketch
Line art (I love linearts because I grew up reading Marvel and I thought they’re beautiful. When people do hyperrealism painting I notice they’d delete the sketch lines later but I don’t)
Grayscale painting, this is important for me to understand the value of every colour and pinpoint the light source for the artwork. If it looks good black and white then it’d loom good coloured 👌🏻 (don’t know who said this but some professional artist I heard somewhere maybe)
Colouring! This is where I just play around with the setting of the layers in photoshop. I usually use a combination of overlay, mutiply, lighten and colour dodge.
And then final touches: Level, Curve, Colour grading, Filters (I mainly use camera raw and tilt shift blur)
That’s it! I hope hope it helps!!
#sbr.asks#answered#but to be honest#90% of the time when I’m painting I don’t know what I’m doing#don’t take my advice at face value#🥲
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Ok bc I’m kind of “interested” in photography I have something (a lot of things) to say about this
I’m mostly into analog (film) photography these days but I started with digital haha, so I thought I’d share some stuff if you ever want to take a picture of a small person in a sink but only have a big person in a tub to work with🤷♀️
The “miniature” effect u are describing is called the “tilt shift” effect, or tilt shift photography. It’s basically a method of taking pics of regular sized things and making them look unnaturally small.
Like this pic of the tower bridge in London:
What’s happening here is that u are essentially shrinking the part of the image that is in focus, which mimics the way our eyes work when looking at something tiny.
Eg imagine looking into a field of flowers, there’s nothing particular to focus on, so your eyes just focus on the whole image before you.
Now imagine looking at a small piece of Lego on the ground. If u are trying to look specifically at the Lego, your eyes have to focus on that object and basically blur everything else out - if we can achieve “small area of focus + slightly blurred background” effect with their camera on a regular sized object, it will appear miniature in the photo!
This can be done in post after the photo is taken (eg u take a regular pic and then add the effect in photoshop), or it can be done “live”/as u take the photo.
If u want to achieve the affect w/o photoshop, there are a couple of ways to do it w/ your own camera.
The first/easiest way is to simply use a tilt shift lens
U will need a SLR or DSLR camera (single lens reflex, digital SLR) that can accept different lens types like this:
Just attach the tilt shift lens, point, and shoot lmao
If u don’t have a tilt shift lens or don’t want to shell out $$, you can can create the same effect manually.
What makes the subject of a photo look miniature is essentially a combination of
A high angle (you are shooting from above, looking down - like Godzilla looking down at a city haha)
a shallow depth of field
What is “depth of field”? Well, if u look at the pic above, notice how only the bridge part is in focus (sharp) and almost everything else around it is blurry? That means only the area immediately surrounding the bridge is within the depth of field (DOF)
DOF refers to the stretch of distance where your subject will appear clear or “in focus” rather than fuzzy. Technically, it is defined as “the distance between the nearest and furthest elements in a scene that appear to be "acceptably sharp" in an image”
See above, in the top image, how only the subject appears clear and the tree is fuzzy? This is an example of a shallow DOF, meaning only the distance around the subject (let’s say like, idk 1 meter) is in focus.
So anything within a 1 meter radius of the subject will appear sharp in your photo, and anything else will be blurry*.This is what we want to create the miniature/tilt shift effect.
There is also a different effect called “bokeh” which features an optional in focus subject in the foreground, and blurry lights in the background (see below). This is a little different from shallow DOF)
And just for fun, the bottom pic shows a large depth of field, which is what you get on standard photos u take on your phone, etc., where basically everything in the image is clear.
See how both the subject and the tree are in focus, that means the distance from subject to tree (let’s say 3 meters) is the DOF, so anything in that 3m will appear clear in the pic.
So HOW do we achieve a shallow DOF?
Hahaha so glad u (didn’t) ask!!! 😂
Again, there a a few ways, and you can combine these together.
1.) WIDE aperture
So you know that “click” sound when u take a photo (or that your phone plays when u take a photo lol)? That’s the sound of the camera shutter.
Think of the camera like your eye. 👁️ the pupil (the black part/hole that adjusts to let in light) is the equivalent of the “aperture” in the camera.
So basically the camera has its own pupil u can adjust to let in more light, or less light. And to simplify things, you can think of the shutter like your eyelid* that opens and allows light to hit your eye.
*more accurately, the shutter would be the pupillary sphincter (the muscle that actually controls the pupil), and the lens cap would be the eyelid, but whatever haha, let’s keep it simple 😅
These are examples of different apertures - they are referred to as “f numbers” or “f stops”
The smaller the f stop, the larger the aperture. So f/1.4 has the widest aperture - this is like when u are high af and your pupils are dilated. With a wide aperture, you are going to let more light into your eyes.
I guess it’s like in fics when ppl say this person’s eyes darkened, they are referring to the fact that pupils enlarge/dilate during arousal, making the black part more prominent and “darkening” the eyes.
The larger the f stop, smaller the aperture. Here the f/8.0 is tiny, like when people describe pupils as being pinpricks. Your eyes constrict your pupils like this when it suddenly gets super bright, so you aren’t blinded by the light.
So basically, wide aperture / large f number for shallow DOF.
2.) Longer focal distance
I started writing this out and it was a lot, so I’m going to simply it and say:
📸A wide angle lens has a short focal length
This is the kind of lens used in landscape portraits, where you want to get an almost panoramic view. With a wide angle lens, u are able to fit more of the landscape into the photo
This is kind of a shit photo, but it gets the point across lmao
See how the wide angle lens allows u to fit more of the surroundings into the pic?
📸 a telephoto/zoom lens has a long focal length
I think we all know what a zoom lens is… it’s like the ones paps or sports photogs use.
Fun fact, if u see someone with a white lens attachment instead of the usual black ones, those are like fancy and expensive af. Like if u have an opportunity to steal choose a lens for free out of a generous persons collection, choose the biggest, longest white one u can see 🤑
Anyway, this is the kind of lens u want for a longer focal distance/shallow DOF, but u don’t have to get an expensive one like that.
There are plenty of cheaper ones that work fine, they don’t need to be white haha.
3.) move your camera (physically) closer to the subject
The is another way to get a more shallow DOF… and I prob don’t need to explain it lol. Just like physically move the camera closer to the subject while keeping it in focus haha
Stumbled upon this pic on Twitter [it's most likely a photoshop, still] and was wondering if it might inspire something in you?? 🙂
oh my god!!! this was the exact photo that inspired me for the elf fics!!! I mentioned to @royalsweetteaa how he looked so tiny in the sink and then BAM! we had elves!!😱
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Nothing was indexical
Rosalind Krauss's "Notes on the Index" (which comes in parts one and two, like an Isley Brothers single) dates from 1976 and 1977, which was maybe the heyday of an idea that has become another "modernist myth": that of the self-evident evidentiary nature of photography, that a photograph is a "message without a code," an "index" of some physical presence. "Undoubtedly the photograph implies a certain displacement of the scene (cropping, reduction, flattening)," Krauss concedes, "but this passage is not a transformation (as an encoding must be)."
With that understanding of photography in place — that it simply appropriates reality and represents it without any space for transformative manipulation on the part of the photographer — Krauss argues that painting in the 1970s moved toward the indexical, presenting itself as a kind of evidence in a way, as a mode of cropping reality or isolating it to caption it, rather than as a moment of transcendent truth torn from the eternal now of Real Art (à la Michael Fried circa "Art and Objecthood"). It's as though art no longer needed to aspire to evoking "presence" because photography made that mundane, tedious, too easy.
Here's how Krauss's sums up this shift:
Internal division (drawing) is converted from its formal status of encoding reality to one of imprinting it. The edge of the work is redirected from its condition as closure (the establishment of a limit in response to the internal meaning of the work) and given the role of selection (gathering a visually intelligible sample of the underlying continuum). The flatness of the support is deprived of its various formal functions (as the constraint against which illusion is established and tested; as the source of conventional coherence ) and is used instead as the repository of evidence. (Since this is no longer a matter of convention but merely of convenience, the support for the index could obviously take any configuration, two- or three-dimensional.) Each of these transformations operates in the direction of photography as a functional model.
Now it would be hard to take seriously the proposition that photographs are indexical or that they are "messages without code" — they are now commonly understood as digital artifacts made entirely of code and highly subject to all sorts of manipulations and filtering. The suite of tools in Photoshop (not to mention Instagram or TikTok) offer a new range of ways to reconceive visual media and "pictorial conventions" far beyond cropping and captioning. One could probably examine all forms of visual art since Photoshop in these terms (I'm sure many have): as a kind of rendering, as subject to the default settings of standardized operations, as varying levels of deepfakery. "Gaussian blur" and tilt-shift parameters as ways of seeing, and so on.
The discourses around postmodernism often grappled with the idea that objective truth was not straightforwardly representable, that no evidence transcended interpretation, that presence was a metaphysical fiction, a failed grand narrative. Another way to look at those thematics is in terms of the gradual disillusionment with photography, which could no longer be seen as neutral or transparent, or even as a metaphor for "transparency" or "neutrality" or a blank, unbiased way of seeing. The camera itself is no longer a camera but an engine, a producer of images that are not representations but separate realities in their own right.
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hi beauty! hope ur doing ok. I wanted to ask how do you add the glowy white speckles on your pictures? Ex) on Sarai's rings in her birthday post. Thank you in advance!
If you use photoshop, duplicate the picture, go to blur gallery, then tilt shift, pull the eye all the way down and play with the light Bokeh and you did it :)
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Adobe Photoshop CS6 mac dmg free download full version. Complete setup Adobe Photoshop CS6 offline installer for mac OS with direct link.
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Adobe makes certain prominent changes on every retail version they release. The 13th update for Adobe Photoshop CS6 is currently available on the Adobe website, and any licensed Adobe user may get the update officially for free. However, the new CS6 version features powerful improvements and impressive changes on the photo editing techniques offered by Adobe. the essential algorithm is Adobe Mercury Graphics Engine on Photoshop CS6. Every operation will now keep it up like a breeze, unless the Pc Adobe Photoshop CS is simply too under-powered, the users aren’t alleged to feel any glitch.
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The new algorithm has been optimized for both Mac OS and Windows platforms to supply the utmost level of comfort and ease. specializing in the creative part is important instead of being bothered about the software requirements, and that’s what Adobe has through with the Photoshop CS6. Plugins support make it very easy to reinforce the photos. Edit the raster designs and work on vector images also as process RAW photos. the application comes with complete support for enhancing the photos also as fix images with minimum efforts in Adobe CS6 Mac.
Another very useful feature Adobe has added is that the auto recovery option. Computers could still freeze even in any case these improvements, or unwanted scenarios like breakdown or anything might occur. If Adobe Photoshop CS closes improperly thanks to any reason while an editing task was happening , the modifications are saved on a recovered version and also the users can continue where they left off when Photoshop is launched future time.
Certainly a lifesaving feature for many! Some essential tools are upgraded or revamped so as to be more useful from now. Content-Aware Move Tool now moves the weather more precisely, Crop tool lets the users change the form without much workaround. The Blur tool has been heavily re-imagined with the addition of a brand new gallery of blur filet. Making an inspired photo takes much less time on the Adobe Photoshop CS6. Change the color of the pictures also as adjust different settings to boost the photos. Change the background and other details with minimum efforts also as use different brushes and other tools to reinforce the digital photos.It’s an entire application to edit and enhance the digital images with minimum efforts. You can also download Adobe Lightroom Mac CC.
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Photography-An art to excel
Over the recent months we’ve been presenting various showcases of photography – while many readers hated the showcases, most readers found them inspirational and perfect for a lousy workday’s morning. However, what we should have done in the inspirational posts is not just provide you with some inspiration for your work, but also present useful photographic techniqueswhich can help you to achieve optimal pictures for your designs. And as requested by many of you, now it’s time to correct our mistake.
Over the recent months we’ve been presenting various showcases of photography – while many readers hated the showcases, most readers found them inspirational and perfect for a lousy workday’s morning. However, what we should have done in the inspirational posts is not just provide you with some inspiration for your work, but also present useful photography techniques and photo tutorials which can help you to achieve optimal pictures for your designs. And as requested by many of you, now it’s time to correct our mistake.
In this post we present useful photographic techniques, tutorials and resources for various kinds of photography. You’ll learn how to set up the perfect environment and what techniques, principles and rules of thumbs you should consider when shooting your next perfect photo. This round-up isn’t supposed to be the ultimate one – please feel free to suggest more useful articles in the comments to this post.
You may want to take a look at the following related posts:
Among other things, we cover high-speed photography, tilt-shift photography, black and white photography, motion blur, infrared, night, smoke photography, macro photography, HDR, panoramic photography, RAW processing and others. Hopefully, you’ll find many of the listed tutorials and how-tos useful for your regular work.
With so many people working from home, we thought we would bring our Smashing Workshops from our home offices to yours. Meet online front-end & UX workshops, with practical takeaways, interactive exercises, recordings and a friendly Q&A.Check upcoming workshops ↬
1. High Speed Photography Celebration Of High-Speed Photography This post is supposed to provide you with some inspiration of what can be done with high-speed photography. It also showcases some truly stunning slow-motion videos. Home-Made High Speed Photography (PDF) Pictures of high-speed events such as popping balloons, breaking glass, and splashing liquids reveal interesting structures not visible to the naked eye. With this guide you can take your own high-speed photos to captures these ephemeral events. A very detailed tutorial. photography techniques 2. Tilt-Shift Photography Tilt-shift photography refers to the use of camera movements on small- and medium-format cameras; it usually requires the use of special lenses. Tilt-shift actually encompasses two different types of movements: rotation of the lens relative to the image plane, called tilt, and movement of the lens parallel to the image plane, called shift. Tilt is used to control the orientation of the plane of focus (PoF), and hence the part of an image that appears sharp; it makes use of the Scheimpflug principle. Shift is used to change the line of sight while avoiding the convergence of parallel lines, as when photographing tall buildings. Another, less cost-intensive technique called tilt-shift miniature faking is a process in which a photograph of a life-sized location or object is manipulated so that it looks like a photograph of a miniature-scale model. 50 Beautiful Examples Of Tilt-Shift Photography Tilt-Shift Photography Photoshop Tutorial This tutorial was produced using Photoshop CS2 on a PC. photography techniques 3. Black And White Photography Beautiful Black and White Photography One of the most beautiful inspirational posts on Smashing Magazine, featuring over 50 brilliant works from photographers across the globe. Black and White Photography Techniques 5 Black and White Photography Tips A short, but useful article by by Darren Rowse, featuring shoot in RAW, low ISO and other techniques. You may also consider reading the articles Key Ingredients for Black and White Images Black and White Photography Guide This photography technique starts before the shot is even taken. In this article you’ll find some quick tips on what to look for to ensure the perfect black and white landscape – e.g. camera settings for black and white photography and what filters are good for black and white landscapes. Digital Black and White This site features professional photography articles written by Keith Cooper. It covers black/white-photography-techniques, image manipulation techniques, tools, articles and camera reviews. The Top 5 Black & White Photography Tips Five handy tips to get you going in the right direction: practice, focus on contrast, focus on texture, use color filters and more. If you want to learn more about the actual black and white conversion process in Photoshop, see the article 12 Ways to Make a Black & White Photo as well. Motion Blur Bridge smoke 4. Motion Blur Photography 45 Beautiful Motion Blur Photos A showcase of motion blur photos. Motion blur is frequently used to show a sense of speed. You can artificially achieve this effect in a usual scene using cameras with a slow shutter speed. Also Adobe Photoshop can be used for this purpose, though sometimes images may look unnatural and unprofessional. How to Capture Motion Blur in PhotographyCapturing movement in images
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can you explain the rehade effects and what they do because im so confused >.
I myself don’t know what all the effect do/how to use some of the effects correctly but I can explain to you the ones I use most often! From there you can edit other presets and/or try to create your own! Just a little disclaimer; this is just how I use the effects! Some of these may not be their intended and full uses.
DOF (depth of field blur)
MATSO DOF: Matso is the traditional Bokeh depth of field blur. It’s one of the more popular depth of field blurs, in my personal opinion.
MartyMcFly DOF: MartyMcFly blurs in what looks like little circles and other round shapes, it can be adjusted to give the same Bokeh effect that you have with Matso but is more forgiving on Alpha hairs.
TiltShift: (not a depth of field blur) Tilt Shift is a simple effect, it is additional blur along the edge of your window. For example in the corners to create more focus in the center.
Light Adjustments
Levels: Like in photoshop you can use levels to adjust your white and black thresholds, in my case I use them to balance out the more dominate effects.
HDR: I am new to HDR but in the past I have used it to brighten darker skintones when the more dominate effects hurt their visibility, example; 100K Coffin.
Color and Tone Effects ( “More Dominate Effects” )
FilmPass: FilmPass allows you to alter the colors. You can enhance other colors while muting other colors. You can saturate or desatrated with FilmPass (and other effects). I focus on the Red, Blue Green Curves, BaseGamma, and EffectGama R, G, and B. You can completely alter the look with FilmPass, example majority of Indra’s and 100K Coffins’ effects and about half of Adsila’s effects lie within FilmPass.
ColorMatrix: ColorMatrix is another you can use to alter colors but in a more precise way. If you have a very specific color you want your preset to reflect I would make those adjustments with ColorMatrix. Example; it’s used in Indra to create/enhance the cooler blues.
Technicolor & Technicolor 2: I primarily use Technicolor for desatrated presets and Techicolor 2 for saturated presets/presets with vibrant/strong colors. Technicolor, to me, is most closely related to the effects you can create with exposure. Techincolor 2, to me, is a bit more like a photo filter.
Other Color Effects
Colorfulness: Colorfulness is very simple, you can use it to make a preset very colorful or very colorless and anything in between, whatever you choose!
Sepia (Tint): Otherwise known as Tint, Sepia allows you to add a filter over your other preset effects. I use it most with presets centered around warm colors, ex; Adsila’s effects are primarily Tint.
Glow
Bloom: Bloom or BloomAndLensFlares allows you to set thresholds that can be used to give your preset a more glowy look. Within this effect are options to have lens flares.
AmbientLight: AmbientLight, to me, is a more wide scale bloom that covers the entire preset. With AmbientLight you can add dust overlays.
Other
SMAA: SMAA is ReShades edge smooth.
MXAO: MXAO is traditionally used to shade your sims and world but it can also be used to add exposure in those same areas.
ChromaticAberration: CA is the 3D effects.
Those are about all of the ones I use/adjust! I hope this helps you a little!Just a reminder, I learn everyday and these are just how I use them. What do I know, haha!
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فیلتر tilt-shift blur فتوشاپ - tilt-shift blur
پست جدیدی در وبسایت گرافیشا منتشر شد.
فیلتر tilt-shift blur فتوشاپ - tilt-shift blur
با استفاده از فیلتر tilt-shift blur فتوشاپ ، می توانیم جاهای دلخواهی از تصویر را بلوری کنیم. این فیلتر، امکان تنظیم مقدار بلور، محلی که بلور قرار می گیرد و جاهایی که می خواهیم بلور نشوند را می دهد.
انتخاب فیلتر tilt-shift blur
از Filter->Blur->tilt-shift blur را انتخاب می کنیم. با انتخاب آن، در سمت راست، دو پنل باز می شود. یکی blur tool و دیگری blur effects. در پنل blur tool، 3 نوع blur نمایان می شود که می توانیم یکی از آن ها را انتخاب کنیم. این کار با کلیک کردن بر روی تیک کنار آن ها امکان پذیر است، سپس هر نوع بلور را که خواستیم را بر روی عکس اعمال می کنیم. این 3 نوع بلور، عبارت اند از:
field blur
Iris blur
tilt-shift blur
نکته ای که در اعمال هر یک از این 3 بلور باید دقت کنیم، این است که نمی توانیم ابتدا لایه را به smart object تبدیل کنیم و سپس بلور را به عنوان یک smart filter بر روی آن اعمال کنیم. پس مطمئن شوید که در ابتدای کار با استفاده از ctrl+j، یک کپی از لایه بگیرید.
نکته ی دیگری که باید دقت کنیم، این است که یکبار ctrl+z بعد از اعمال یکی از این فیلترها مجاز است. اگر یکی از این فیترها را اعمال کردیم و سپس ctrl+z زدیم تا آن را برداریم. می توانیم بار دیگر، از منوی Filter، اولین گزینه را انتخاب کنیم تا فیلتر با همان تنظیماتی که قبلا ایجاد کرده بودیم، دوباره اعمال شود.
بررسی فیلتر tilt-shift blur
در وسط عکس، یک دایره وجود دارد، که با جابه جا کردن آن، می توانیم ناحیه ای که بلور می شود را مشخص را جابه جا کنیم.
دور آن، یک کنترل دیگر وجود دارد که با کم و زیاد کردن آن، مقدار بلور افزایش یا کاهش می یابد.
کلا 5 ناحیه در شکل می بینیم:
دو ناحیه ی بالا و پایین که کاملا بلور شده اند.
دو ناحیه ی وسط که تا حدودی بلور شده اند.
یک ناحیه ی وسط، که اصلا بلور نشده است. می توانیم بر حسب نیاز، خطوط مرزی را جابه جا کنیم تا اندازه ی این ناحیه ها تغییر کند.
اضافه کردن tilt-shift blurهای بیشتر
به هر تعداد از این نقاط، که مایل باشیم، می توانیم اضافه کنیم؛ کافی است که در هر جای دلخواه از تصویر، کلیک کنیم.
ویژگی های دیگری که برای فیلتر tilt-shift blur در پنل blur tools در سمت راست می توانیم اعمال کنیم
ویژگی distortion: شکل انحراف را برای بلور اعمال شده تعیین می کند.
ویژگی symmetric distortion: فعال بودن این گزینه، باعث می شود که انحراف از هر دو سمت به یک اندازه اعمال شود.
مثالی از فیلتر tilt-shift blur فتوشاپ در بالا آمده است. مشاهده می کنیم که چطور بعضی قسمت های تصویر، بلور شده اند و بعضی دیگر، دست نخورده باقی مانده اند.
مرجع کامل فیلترهای فتوشاپ در سایت گرافیشا.
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A Real Wedding Photographer
your friendly neighborhood photographer here, sharing with you a little bit of insight from within the tiny walls of my office. You see, there’s a lot of blogging trends going on that I find particularly un-swoon-worthy. Of course, this is just my own humble opinion, but I am here to represent the other photographers and brides of the world who don’t feel heard or seen.
Why are our weddings being repeatedly rejected from wedding blogs?
It is certainly not because of the quality of photography. I have repeatedly seen photography on blogs like Cockles and Pretties that would make a 3-year-old look like a pro. At the same time, I’ve seen gorgeous wedding photography shot by colleagues turned down for publication. Why? Because not all of our weddings include brides sporting bird nests in their hair, or pretty, young Anthro pologie-swathed bridesmaids, or meticulously stenciled miniature burlap dinosaurs holding up place cards made from the recycled issues of Rolling Stone, or weddings held in obscure meadows that can only be reached via bush pilot or a team of sled dogs.
Sometimes our clients get married in churches, country clubs, or even a VFWs (oh yes… it’s true!).
Sometimes they wear a simple silk wedding dresses, or employ florists instead of roaming the hillsides of Sweden picking wildflowers the morning of their weddings. Sometimes they are doctors, lawyers, or police officers who are too busy to make custom bird cake-toppers and who don’t have access to a baby-blue vintage bicycles. Sometimes their weddings are simple. Maybe normal. Sometimes average.
Now, don’t get me wrong; we all love the rustic, the unique and the detailed. I do too, but it isn’t realistic for every couple. And in turn, it’s not realistic to publish that type of wedding in every blog post! In fact, the state of the wedding blog-o-sphere is downright distressing for some couples.They’re visually overloaded by wedding blogs that showcase only the most unique and the most elaborate weddings, implying showcased weddings are the norm.
The Height of Dysfunction I’ve even had brides apologize to me! They say,“I’m sorry, our wedding is very plain. We didn’t have the time to make a lot of decorations.”
“This is probably a really boring wedding for you to photograph, I’m sorry.”
Where are they getting this negative self-image of their wedding? Glad you asked, because I’ll tell you. They get it from the same place that gave women a negative self-image of their bodies: the Media. It used to be that the Media consisted largely of magazines and newspapers. But now you bloggers are a part of the Media, albeit the so-called “new media.”
Wedding Photographers Suck Too Wedding blogs aren’t the only ones to blame. I’ve had a lot of photographers tell me that they only blog about weddings that are highly detailed or where the bride is pretty and skinny. They leave out the VFW weddings and the heavier couples so that perspective clients who aren’t Cockles and Pretties-worthy don’t think to contact them. They don’t want “weddings like that” in “places like that” with “people like that.”
Because they won’t get published. They won’t have their photography acknowledged. They won’t end up in the 7th-grade popularity contest we call the Wedding Industry. End This + Consider the Average Bride As a publisher, you have a chance and the power to change things. So my plea to you is this: consider the average bride.
Consider the bride who looks at wedding blogs for inspiration, but only finds ideas she either can’t afford or doesn’t have time to make. Consider the bride who thinks less is more. Consider the bride who doesn’t wear feathers. Consider the bride whose wedding and engagement session isn’t meticulously styled with an eye toward publication.
Consider the bride who is typical and realistic.
I’m not saying you should stop publishing unique and detailed weddings, but reach out to real couples and publish their less elaborate weddings, too. Your job as publishers should be to document this wonderful event for all couples. So show us different types of brides and their weddings, both extraordinary and simple.
Do something outside of the norm and you’d probably get even more visitors. And I’m not talking about finding the next fad. Focus on good photography and substance. All your blogs are starting to look alike anyway.There are very few blogs I feel the need to follow any longer. I know what I’ll find when I visit most wedding blogs because so many posts are filled with the same:
I’d love to visit your site and see all sorts of weddings; the unique mixed in with the average and everything in between. This would make different posts stand out, and brides wouldn’t be apologizing to me about how “boring” their wedding is. Readers would see that every bride and wedding is different — not because of feathers and burlap, but because of the unique nature of human relationships; because of time and money constraints; and because the most important part of the day isn’t in the details. You know what I mean. Deep down I know you do.
The truth is this: Fad Photoshop filters and actions are often used to cover-up bad or boring photography.
It doesn’t matter how many different shoe colors the bridesmaids wore if I can barely see the difference because the hideous yellow and pink of a Photoshop filter. Sometimes I can’t even tell if they’re wearing shoes because the tilt shift effect is used to cover up and blur anything that would reveal it for what it is: a boring photograph. How am I supposed to appreciate the little adorable dogs in tuxedos if the picture is so underexposed that I can’t see the detail in their rhinestone collars.
We get it. It’s the trend. But let’s face it, it’s not a very attractive one. Perhaps it’s time to move on. Perhaps it’s time to consider accepting clear, clean photographs with accurate color. Photographs of the type of weddings that we all actually attend: regular ones. I guarantee these well-documented, professionally-shot weddings that honor true color will be the classics in 25 years. They are honest.
Want to know how to find better photographers?
OK, fine. Then select advertisers whose work you can stand behind. This is important. Readers turn to you for solid recommendations. When selecting vendors, consider skill level, not just sales revenue. Then, when someone advertises with you, you can in good conscious publish one of their weddings or even ask for an expert interview. It’s upsetting when we photographers pay hundreds of dollars to advertise with you and our weddings are turned down, but you’ll publish some hack who not only isn’t advertising with you, but they also take horrible photographs. Oh, but I forgot, the bridal party is sporting twigs in their hair. Come on! I know you’re smarter than that. Aren’t you?
Does this sound like the rant of a photographer who rarely gets published? It sure does. But honestly, I’m published quite frequently. I am most thankful to the little, upcoming blogs that may soon rise up and take over with their good photography and their variety of wedding types. Of course unique weddings that I’ve shot invariably get accepted much faster and in much larger publications. But it breaks my heart when some of my “regular” weddings, which are often gorgeous in their own right, don’t get accepted at all, with the reply that there “aren’t enough details,” even when there are what I consider a decent number of details. Look, I’m a detail-oriented photographer; I always make sure I get a variety of shots. But at the end of the day, those in-between weddings that I shoot, that are unique and held in gorgeous locations, don’t get accepted because they aren’t as wildly eccentric as the weddings that are in the spotlight now.
I love to photograph detailed weddings as much as the next photographer, but all weddings need to be loved! And all brides and grooms need to beloved.
How did this turn into high-fashion? Why are we daily hosting a who-can-have-the-weirdest-decorations-and-wedding-dress contest?
I know this is a lot to ask. And I know the problem doesn’t lie just with wedding bloggers. I also know why you exclusively accept highly-styled shoots and weddings; I understand that you have to make a living, too. You need to attract new readers and new advertisers. You feel the only way to do that is to be unique, to carve out your niche, to offer something new and novel every day. But this fantasy wedding world is not the reality of most weddings. As you continue to gain respect and power as a legitimate media source, your responsibility toward your readers grows. Don’t screw up their heads with a constant barrage of the unattainable. Give them something they can relate to.
Just Get Real So, it’s time to start including the bride who doesn’t have the time or money for a mid-century-modern, ironic vanity fair. Let’s celebrate the bride who doesn’t have a craft studio that would make Martha jealous. It’s high time we honor the experiences and pictures of the average wedding that may have simple details, but always has lots of laughter and family and friends. These weddings *can* teach us something about the true meaning of weddings and of marriage. In fact, they do every weekend during wedding season. I think these pictures should be readily available. Don’t be afraid to celebrate the average wedding. It will be okay–more than okay. It will be honest and heartfelt and full of life and substance. It will be real. Really real. I promise.
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VeryUtils Online Image Editor
VeryUtils Online Image Editor is an online graphics editing tool using HTML5. VeryUtils Online Image Editor works in all modern browsers that support HTML5. VeryUtils Online Image Editor lets you create, edit, enhance images using HTML5 technologies on Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS, Android, etc. systems. You can embed it into your Web, Desktop and mobile applications easily.
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VeryUtils Online Image Editor is an online painting application. You can do all the paint related works using this app. VeryUtils Online Image Editor operates directly in the web browser. You can create images, paste from the clipboard (ctrl+v) or upload from the computer (using menu or drag & drop). Nothing will be sent to any server. Everything stays in your web browser.
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-- Enable VeryUtils Online Image Editor to open an online image file automatically,
https://veryutils.com/app/image-editor/?url=https://veryutils.com/images/picture.jpg
[iframe style="width:100%; height:1000px;" id="VeryUtilsImageEditor" src="https://veryutils.com/app/image-editor/?url=https://veryutils.com/images/picture.jpg" allow="camera"][/iframe]
-- Enable VeryUtils Online Image Editor to open an online template file automatically,
https://veryutils.com/app/image-editor/?url=https://veryutils.com/app/image-editor/images/test-collection.json
[iframe style="width:100%; height:1000px;" id="VeryUtilsImageEditor" src="https://veryutils.com/app/image-editor/?url=https://veryutils.com/app/image-editor/images/test-collection.json" allow="camera"][/iframe]
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Download analog efex pro full
#Download analog efex pro full pro#
Lens vignettes are a powerful tool for recreating the look of old lenses and for concentrating attention on the center of the frame. This one is pretty subtle and barely noticeable on its own, but it does add to the atmosphere and effect of the preset as a whole. You can change the Strength setting and also move the light leak effect around the image using an on-screen gadget. You can see from the Light Leaks panel that there are a lot to choose from. Light leak effects are very popular for creating an atmospheric analog image with an evocative haziness or a deliberate ‘leaky camera’ look, where light has got in at the back and fogged the film. This preset does also use a light leak effect… 4. It looks a little like a light leak but different at the same time. This image gets its ethereal effect from the second exposure, its position and its blurring/blending effect. You can use the on-screen gadget to position the second exposure, adjust its Exposure and its Exposure Balance with the original, and its Zoom Strength and Rotate Strength. It effectively copies the main image, distorts it and blends it back in with the original. The Double Exposure panel is the key to this set of effects. This rolls the dice randomly on this set of filters, so it’s a great way to see countless variations and without getting exactly the same one twice. If you look at the bottom of the sidebar you’ll see a Vary button. All the Double Exposure presets use this set of filters, but that’s not to say they use all of them. That’s because the filter is enabled for this preset but not used. You’ll see from the panel, though, that the Blur Strength is set to zero. You can create a circular blur towards the edges of the picture, which is what’s used here, or a horizontal blur to create a tilt-shift ‘miniature’ effect.
#Download analog efex pro full pro#
It’s not strictly the same thing, but Analog Efex Pro uses ‘bokeh’ to describe its controlled blur/defocus effects. You can use Control Points to mask the effect in parts of the image you want left unaltered. At the bottom you’ll see and expandable Control Points section. This combines a kind of HDR and structure effect to bring out details in the shadows and make objects stand out clearly. The Detail Extraction slider at the top is interesting, though. You use it to tune the basics: Brightness, Contrast and Saturation. This panel is standard in just about all Analog Efex Pro presets. I’ll explain each one individually, how it works and the effect it has on the photo. These tools and their settings are in the right sidebar. It’s applied to the image with a single click, but this preset actually uses several Analog Efex Pro tools in combination. The one I’ve chosen for this walkthrough is ‘Double Exposure 2’. If you select this you’ll see a list of preset double exposure effects in the sidebar. In the left sidebar you’ll see a choice of different ‘Cameras’, and one of these is ‘Double Exposure’. You can launch Analog Efex Pro as a standalone program, as an external editor for Capture One and other programs, or as a plug-in for Lightroom or Photoshop.
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On1 effects current version
ON1 EFFECTS CURRENT VERSION SKIN
ON1 EFFECTS CURRENT VERSION PORTABLE
ON1 EFFECTS CURRENT VERSION PORTABLE
Preview any look or effect instantly What’s New in ON1 Effects Portable
ON1 EFFECTS CURRENT VERSION SKIN
Like placing filters on the end of your camera, just easierĮasily retouch using filters specific to skin tonesĮasily save and organize your own looks and presets Quickly preview the effects and how the look appears on your photoĪI technology detects your subject matter and automatically creates a maskīlend photos together for exposure or create vignettes and graduated filter looksĪdd common adjustments to only a portion of your photoĬrop, content-aware fill, clone, refine, chisel, and blur are perfect for touching up photosĬreate luminosity masks based on the image to automatically protect the highlights or shadows Includes hundreds of built-in photo effects, filters, LUTs, borders, textures, and presets Non-destructive, stackable, and re-editable photo filters and presets The collection of tools in ON1 Effects Portable are perfect for selectively applying effects and cleaning up your photos. The world’s best effects for finishing your photos. You can dial in every setting to your taste with instant previews! You’re in complete control of every edit you make. Once you’ve made your adjustments, you can save your own preset for quick access later on. Filters and presets are easy to find and apply. We’ve made sure that your slider adjustments won’t stick, giving you a fast and smooth editing experience. Every effect can be brushed in or out in just seconds. Use the easy-to-use yet powerful tools to target your effects to specific areas of your photo. Includes 27 stackable filters and hundreds of presets, borders, and textures. You’re going to love experimenting with all the unique and beautiful effects you’ll be able to add to your photos with just a few clicks - the creative possibilities are limitless!Ĭombine multiple effects to create any possible look. Popular looks include B&W, HDR Look, Dynamic Contrast, Lens Blur (tilt-shift), Glows, Film Looks, Split Tone, Textures, Borders and more. ON1 Effects Portable includes hundreds of built-in presets, filters, LUTs, textures and borders that you can combine, blend, and customize to your style. Instantly stylize your photos and create any look you want. The Ultimate Collection of Photo Effects, Filters, LUTs, and Presets. ON1 Effects Portable works on Mac and Windows and can be used as a standalone application or as a plug-in to Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop. Our team of experts curated the trendiest looks with amazing new one-click presets. With ON1 Effects Portable, you get professional results in seconds without having to do any complex edits. We’ve curated hundreds of the most popular looks and styles seen throughout the industry.
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Download pixelmator pro free online
Download pixelmator pro free online update#
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What if we had bigger pointers for larger brush sizes? Maybe a crosshair for more precise sizes? How about a unique pointer shape for the pixel brush tool, which also has pointer snapping to each pixel for even more precision? So many possibilities to make this a really unique experience for the iPad. There’s also some keyboard functionality missing like being able to select multiple layers/objects on the canvas with Shift or Command.Ī nice little bonus would be to have enhanced pointer shapes with brushes, erasers, etc. Would love to have a tool sidebar kind of like the desktop Pixelmator app! The keyboard shortcuts make this a lot easier, but I don’t always have access to a keyboard (like when I’m drawing with Apple Pencil). Thanks for fixing the issues with selection editing with the keyboard too!Īs some of the other reviews mentioned, the UI is definitely a little clunky especially on big iPad screens-especially the two modal screens you have to go through to choose a specific brush or selection type.
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Really love the new keyboard and trackpad support-really makes it feel like a pro app.
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New update is awesome, but still a few missing things
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Enjoy perfectly seamless painting thanks to the Pixelmator Paint Engine.
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Wipe away image imperfections, skin blemishes, and unwanted objects with the Repair tool.Easily remove color casts and set the right white balance.Take full control over the tonal range of your image with levels and curves.Instantly improve your photos with single-tap color correction presets.Get started with dozens of beautifully designed templates.Pixelmator has everything you need - whether you’re a mobile photographer, mobile painter, or mobile graphic designer - all in one easy-to-use app.ĭesigned exclusively for iOS, Pixelmator takes full advantage of the latest iOS 14 features and technologies, giving you innovative, fast, and powerful tools. Pixelmator is a powerful, full-featured, layer-based image editor that lets you touch up and enhance images, sketch, and paint, as well as create advanced image compositions on iPad and iPhone alike.
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