#historical patterns

[sewlastcentury]

I've been bad about updating this blog with new patterns, so as of October 2024, here is everything I offer! All are patterned directly from antique garments in my collection (or collections I was given permission to work with).

Most are sizes XL, XXL, and/or 1X, and I have a couple down to S and several up to 3X.

All patterns have detailed size info in the listing, but for general labels I use this size chart.

Available on Etsy here!

I also have several free corset and brassiere patterns from antiques, 1870s-1920s (graded sizes are available for purchase).

Next pattern up, currently in testing, is this stunning ensemble....

(Should be available by December.)

Happy sewing!!

[bygonethreadsstudio]

The 1922 edition of Bear Brand Blue Book is now available on my Etsy!

My copy of the book is extremely delicate and deteriorating, so I'm happy that I was able to scan and restore all 112 pages so it can be enjoyed by people for many years to come.

It is full of both knitting and crochet patterns ranging from women's and men's sweaters and cardigans, children's and babies' wear, blankets, scarves, hats, socks, and stockings.

(Clockwise from top: knitted jacket, crocheted pull-over, knitted jacket, crocheted "tuxedo" cardigan)

[realhistoricalpatterns]

Hi, friends- Happy Belated New Year!

(throwing myself in soup for being so late lol)

Hi everyone! I hope this first quarter of the year is treating everyone well so far.

I just wanted to pop in and remind everyone that this blog does take submissions! As long as the pattern submitted is published in its era (aka no reproductions, no reconstructions, nothing modern), we'd love to share what you've found and add it to the archive! Please also include the date/year and source as well in your submission so we can file it in the right place.

This blog also accepts original period knitting and crochet patterns. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to edit The Directory and add those two categories but you can reach them the exact same way as any of the others via URL as everything has been properly tagged. Think of them as 'Secret Categories' for now! 😂

Anyway, thanks very much for always supporting this blog, despite its inactivity. And remember that if you do make any of the patterns from this archive, please tag us so we can take a look and feature your work!

Take care, everyone, and stay safe out there. <3

[fancyratlady]

Wow!!!

[kicks down door] HEY COSPLAYERS

[fashion-from-the-past]

1895

[badassindistress]

Sometimes you gotta look back to see how much you've improved:

On the left is my first lacy on a whim petticoat, made in 2021. On the right the one I made this year.

Three years can make such a difference in creating the level of lacy floofiness I want in my life!

[kat-cant-draw]

Minoan lady with a snake no correlation to the snake goddess at all

[frostedmagnolias]

Dress

c. 1900

Grand Rapids Public Museum

[nerdyearthquakeunknown]

FREE POETSHIRT PATTERN

Some assembly required

Ok so. I made a sewing pattern that involves a lot of maths on the end users part - this is the only way I, a complete pattern making novice, can make this 100% size inclusive. Luckily it’s super simple and it just a whole bunch of rectangles.

Yes it’s written in cm. Bite me.

So to elaborate a bit:

It’s pretty straight forward. You plug in your own measurements in the places it’s needed.

Body x2: should be twice your either shoulder width or your widest point (if you’re more pear shaped you might want to use your hip width) by the length from your shoulder to about mid thigh* (you can make it as long or short as you want. This could probably also work as a shift pattern in a pinch). In one of the pieces, you should cut a slit in the middle, which as shown above should be about from your neck to your sternum.

Sleeves x2: these should be 2-3 times your bicep measure (this will determine the poofiness of the sleeves), by your arm length. Adding a few cm to the length can be a good idea here. I usually just round up to what seems most logical.

Cuffs x4: your wrist measure + 3-4cm of ease, by how ever long you want them - 5-10cm is a good place to start.

Collar x2: your collar measure** by however tall you want your collar. Keep in mind that it will be folded over.

Gussets

Oh glorious gussets. The whole reason this pattern works! But also where it gets a bit mathy

Sleeve gussets: these are square. The diagonal should be about 1/6 of your total armscye (all the way around). Rather a bit too small than too big - it can fuck up the fit (it did for me)

Shoulder gussets: these will depend wholely on how buff your trapezius muscles are. If your neck/shoulder is at a right angle, they’re not strictly necessary, but if you’re super buff, they’re very necessary. I’d say an average shoulder gusset is about 5-7cm, but it’s up to you.

Reinforcements

Again, these aren’t strictly necessary, but if you want your shirt to last it’s a good idea to put them in. You can choose to use between 5 and 10 total. These don’t need to be very big, they just go at any split in the fabric. About 2,5cm is good.

Instructions

I used these videos for assembly instructions

This is going to be hard without pictures…

*you can also keep the body as one piece, which should then be twice the length you want it. The slit at the neck will also have to be cut in the middle of the piece.

**your collar measure is the measurement at your neck going over your collarbone rather than tight to the neck.

[autisticaradiamegido]

day 363

more historical fits hey everyone did you know tang dynasty makeup fucked severely? the more u know

[sewlastcentury]

Forthcoming patterns from antiques (currently in testing phase; several should be out this weekend!)

[seamsterslocal]

summer binder picture tutorial

this is the third binder ive made for myself recently and the first one i’m writing up. it’s designed to do a few things: 1) allow me to put it on by myself without dislocating my shoulders 2) allow me to breathe well enough to partake in normal activity 3) be cool enough to wear throughout a muggy 90-100F summer 4) not constrict my ribs in a way that aggravates my lack of connective tissue and causes intense pain.

this has become necessary even though i had top surgery many years ago, because when i had it i was extremely skinny and since then i’ve increased in size by about 50%. this has been really fucking good for my health in every single way* except that when my chest is squishy or moves at all it’s So Goddamn Triggering for me. but also since ive had top surgery ive developed and/or been made away of a plethora of chronic conditions that make every single commercially available binding option medically impossible. unbound, my chest is pretty much what you’d expect for a chubby cis guy but venturing out into the world in just a tshirt no longer works for me

*anyone who badmouths weight gain or fat bodies in the notes WILL be blocked

under the cut are a bunch of process pictures and explanations of what they all mean:

first i’ll give you a look at the pieces and measurements:

most of the seams are sewn in this picture and one half is turned inside out, allowing you to see both the finished dimensions (right) and the placement of the fusible horsehair canvas that gives this lil scrap of linen any structure at all (left)

to get your chest measurement, you’re gonna have to do some math:

first measure above and below what you want to bind. average these numbers. mine are something like 32 and 34, which average to 33. subtract a few inches--this is to allow the air movement between the laces at center front and back, critical in the summertime. i deleted 3 inches bc i like that number but you can go bigger if you want. the more inches you subtract here, the more youll be able to ratchet all your chest material down later, but at the same time you need to leave enough fabric for a sturdy garment. let’s say a range of 2-6 inches/5-15cm. by taking your measurements this way, you’re essentially measuring the chest you would like to have. that + the horsehair canvas work together to compress any squishy tissue/force anything that doesnt compress up and to the outside (basically into the armpit/lower shoulder--the chest might stick out but it will give a very puffed chest captain america pectoral silhouette)

you can also see how ive clipped my curves and pre-drilled my lacing holes. i used the marlin spike on my knife to open up the holes on the interfacing side, mainly as a way of marking them. this worked well bc the interfacing’s glue kept the linen from raveling

this is the same stage but looking at the non-interfaced grey linen/cotton blend (the black is some 100% linen from my cabbage stash). you can see ive broken the solar-plexus-to-back measurement up into a bunch of pieces to save on fabric but that’s not necessary. my original pattern was just two pieces (front and back) and chopping the straps into thirds on both sides was aesthetic

in the following picture you can really see how this is really just overgrown regency stays:

i thought about doing side lacing but didn’t think that would be comfortable for me. on the front, the side seam allowance was pressed inwards before turning to create a finished looking slot. on the back the side seam is left unfinished with an extra wide seam allowance, and is inserted into that slot.

here’s a closeup on it pinned in place (you can adjust the angle of the side seam and the fit during this pinning stage):

that side seam was just topstitched in place once i had the fit how i liked it, and the armhole was reinforced with more topstitching

alright, time for eyelets: first, you can see how well the marking worked:

next, two rows of basted eyelets (left), one row of eyelets sewn with a doubled and waxed cotton thread (center right), and one row of eyelets opened and stainless steel rings placed (right).

next time i’m going to mark the eyelets same as i did above, but do this step differently--i’ll mark and baste the steel rings in place BEFORE widening the eyelets. this is bc i had a lot of problems keeping the eyelets on center

eyelets half done on this one! on the left are eyelets sewn with doubled and waxed cotton thread and on the right eyelets sewn with quadrupled and waxed thread. the center is basting again. i was able to force the holes back in line while sewing the eyelets but it was kinda annoying. adding a second picture that doesnt have great focus but hopefully shows how that process worked and shows the spike clearly

i ended up using this white cotton thread because it’s stronger than my black cotton thread (which the rest of it is sewn with). [eta: after this was first posted, i pressed the whole thing heavily, which effectively de-waxed the thread, and i dyed the whole thing a medium charcoal grey, the thread blends in perfectly on the lighter side and isn’t such a sore thumb on the darker side]

bonus: the piecing layout for that little piece of strap. the whole light gray half of the binder was made from 1/2 of one of the legs i cut off some linen suit pants to make slutty camping shorts last year and i really really didn’t want to break into any of the other three halves for this garment--i have Plans for it

overall the fit of this is incredible. it DOESNT hurt my ribs which every zip-up garment ive been able to find (and it is difficult) does due to really thick elastic at the base. it doesnt aggravate my sensory issues with the synthetic fibers that every commercial option is made of. i can walk up a hill or stairs, or go to pt, without getting too out of breath. i can eat with it tight, or loosen the front easily and without taking it off to make eating easier and less nausea-inducing. it is reversible!

best of all the lacing at the back gives the garment enough movement for me to get it on without dislocating, and the interfacing and steel rings give it structure once it’s on. the shaping comes only from fusible horsehair linen canvas and stainless steel rings like youd use for chainmail, there’s no boning at all, which makes it very quick to sew (except the eyelets, but metal grommets would be sturdy and quick provided theyre of good quality)

there’s a small amount of gaping on the outside of the shoulder strap, which i plan on fixing with a tiny tiny dart in the armpit, i want to add pockets to tuck the laces into, and i need a better lace for the back, but it’s completely wearable in time for the 90 weather next week which is all i wanted. i’ll do a reblog when it’s perfectly finished with an update on the fit but for now it is done enough 

the little ridge where it doesnt lay flat against the shoulder is most visible with just a single t shirt over it. with a flannel or a sweater, it disappears, and by itself, it’s hidden in movement

eta: after dyeing this, i relaced it a bit looser in the back and that gape mainly disappeared. ive decided to leave it in instead of smoothing it with a dart because the loose fabric gives space for my chest to expand when breathing and shapes my silhouette in a way that emphasizes my shoulders

[acosmic]

the popularity of clothing in fixed sizes encountered “multiple cultural resistance[s]” because “they were established for ‘dominated’ people and colonial subjects who usually were part of administrations: children, prisoners, boarders, or soldiers.”

from "Body Doubles: The Origins of the Fashion Mannequin" by Alison Matthews David, quoting Manuel Charpy; available here

[marzipanandminutiae]

[wakes up in a cold sweat] late 1870s mantle embroidered with the Abhorsen surcoat design is that anything

[fashion-from-the-past]

1850-60

[chere-indolente]

Viennese Werkstätte

This set is inspired by the Wiener Werkstätte, an association of viennese artists which was active in the early 20th century. It includes a dress, a brooch and a collection of patterns.

More pics and download below

——————————— Patterns ——————————

I based all of these motifs on Wiener Werkstätte extent pieces (fabrics, book covers and sketches) ranging from 1907 to the 20s (the dates are pretty vague for most of these). Feel free to use them for anything : clothes, upholstery, wallpaper etc.

Please do tag me if you make anything out of these ! ❤️

Includes psd and gimp files for each as well as png in 2 scale options.

——————————— Brooch ——————————

I admittedly got a bit obsessed with Wiener Werkstätte brooches which I've seen mostly worn on the neck (after all they were also called "plaque de cou" aka "neck badge") in photos of Emilie Flöge, so I had to recreate some. The brooches after which I modeled mine were all designed between 1904 and 1908 but I have an inkling that they'd look great on some 60s/70s looks too.

in the necklace section

16 swatches : 7 different design available in different orientations

available for female frames

———————————  Dress  ——————————

I had to put all these good motifs to use so I made this recolor of my Flöge V1 dress to keep to the Wiener Werkstätte theme !

the mesh is included

17 swatches

available for female frames

———————————————————————————

Download : dropbox — simfileshare

———————————————————————————

And some bonus reference pictures below