#historic costume

[calendae-creations]

I finally finished the second piece of torchon ground with scalloped headsides for the cuffs of my 18th c shift! It turned out a lot better than the first, but even the first piece looks nice enough now that it's actually on a garment. I just basted the lace on with a running stitch so it'll be easy to remove for laundering.

If I want to do more historic work, I need to save up somehow for some books on it. There's more online all the time about making bobbin lace, but as far as I can tell disappointingly little about the history of it available on the internet that goes into the kind of depth and specifics that I need. Even digitized museum archives have virtually no information about their lace collections.

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[comicalfellow]

Bonnet alert !

('Ammonite')

[historicalcataloguesandplates]

1869

[jewellery-box]

source

[gentlyepigrams]

This frocking fabulous Lanvin stage costume from 1923 is designed in a Turkish style. Fashion history via Christie's.

[threadtalk]

It is not often that auction houses provide high resolution photos, but Kerry Taylor is a wonderful exception. This 1770 robe à la Française gown is EVERYTHING.

And I couldn't be happier given this particular gown. It's got two features I particularly squee about: gold brocade and a quilted petticoat. It's got silk for miles, and that delicate floral pattern of stripes and texture really works to the advantage of brocade. The quilted petticoat, which has been in and out in terms of fashion for some time at this point, is a gorgeous merlot hue in contrast. The note from the auction house says it's an early 19th century addition, but it still keeps with the dress's look and feel.

You'll notice we've got some wide hips here, but with a slant downward as starts happening at this time--moving toward more of a bell shape rather than the straight out panniers. Due to the shaping on the dress, I immediately thought it must be continental, and I was right. The note says it's either Spanish or Italian. You often see that lower drop at the bodice outside of England and France at this time.

A stunning gown that is both elegant and slightly understated (compared to some of its contemporaries) yet maintains a sense of decadence and sumptuousness all the same.

[nuri148]

18th century French dresses and fabrics.

Arts and History Museum, Orange.

[wellpresseddaisy]

I'm working on what I call my Citizen Bibliographer Project, which is currently an Airtable database of publicly available vintage and historic sewing books (and which will, with more free time, be a website at some point). I'd like to include a field so people can see at a glance if they're going to find drafting/tailoring/sewing instruction for what was then considered women's or men's clothing, but I also think the gendering of clothing is unhelpful in our more modern age.

Would 'Clothing Type' be a good solution? The fields would be things like trouser suits, skirt suits, dresses, petticoats, shirts, shirtwaist, etc.?

And is there any information people would like to see at a glance beyond:

date

title

author

subject

publisher

pub location

clothing types

target age

holding library

the current hosting website

link

[shelikescloth]

Currently thinking about a Jedi cosplay because my partner and I bought ultrasabers and well, one follows the other. He wants Ob-Wan’s lil blue outfit from the show. I, on the other hand, have to be extra, so I was thinking about what historical eras could translate well into a Jedi costume. 

Now of course the Jedi have a variety of outfits, but they generally are all sort of loose with simple construction, often involve several layers, have some kind of belt, and a cloak or robe. 

Here’s my girl Jocasta Nu, Jedi librarian (thus close to my heart)

Depa Billaba has a short tunic and tabard, with leggings

Shaak Ti has a really cool outfit, with more embellishment

Luminara also has a more intricate outfit. Her live-action version looks like a skirt, but in TCW it seems to be split up the front and she has leggings under. I think for some of the Jedi, their outfits relate to their cultural background or have other significant meanings. 

The art for High Republic outfits includes their white and gold formal wear, as well as “leathers” that they wear in regular life

So anyway, these are my basic elements to work with. Up next, some historical periods that I’m looking at!

[lho-archive]

Ram in the clothes from his youth. (He should probably be playing the harp, though).

Drawn 07/11/21

[calendae-creations]

A couple of my current works in progress!

The first is a pair of early 18th c stays (only the left half is shown). The boning channels and eyelets are done on both halves now, but this is as far as I've gotten so far with the binding.

The second is a needle felted butterfly, around 9 inches across, in bi pride colours. I'm not entirely sure what I'll be doing with it, since it turned out too large for a hair clip.

Like my art? Want to see more? Check out my shop!

[comicalfellow]

1830s silk dress with matching bonnet and pelerine

[historicalcataloguesandplates]

1810

[sidecast]

i looove the miku trend. nomadic horselord hungarian miku be upon you

[gentlyepigrams]

Artist and designer Romain de Tirtoff, known by the pseudonym Erté, was born on this day [November 23] in 1892. He designed this blue and white painted and chiné silk costume, made by Redfern, for Ganna Walska in the role of Zazà in a 1920 adaptation of Zazà. LACMA collection.

[scarletstitchstudios]

I finally made my first yarn wig after 10+ years of crocheting my cosplays...