#green house hokkien mee
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green house hokkien mee 青屋蝦麵, georgetown, penang.
it’s one of the popular spot to get penang hokkien mee or prawn mee. they have many kinds of noodles to choose from and two kinds of broth - prawn broth and the thick broth. also quite a lot of addons available to customize your bowl of noodles. i like to mix both the broth to get the best of both worlds.
the prawn broth is very fragrant with nice prawn smell, and the thick broth adds texture which make it so appetizing and yummy. we also ordered lobak as appetizer which taste great too. this would be one of the original hawker food that still taste as good as i remembered.
#food#green house hokkien mee#青屋蝦麵#georgetown#penang#prawn mee#hokkien mee#hawker food#customize#broth#shrimp#prawn#flavorful#add ons#chili#spicy#so good#appetizing#yummy#satisfying#popular#famous#lobak#snack#appetizer#original#authentic taste#worth trying
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大家好! I don't eat a lot of red meat nowadays to keep my saturated fat intake low, thus, I seldom have wonton noodles. Most wontons here are made using fatty minced pork together with shrimp unless they're purely shrimp wontons. The dish is served with char siew - not exactly healthy, although still far less unhealthy than fastfood. Once in awhile, I order wonton noodle soup as a treat and finish all the QQ noodles, dumplings, char siew and veggies because everything is absolutely delicious.
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This week, I tried mee rebus, a local Malay fave, for the very first time. Ikr, how can that even be possible; well, it just happened for the past 46 years! At least there's a willingness to try it and OMG this simple noodle dish with tau kwa (firm tofu), eggs, fish cakes, beansprouts and green chillies is DIVINE! The slurp-worthy noodles and rich gravy were tasty enough to make me inhale the entire plate. I also tried nasi padang, the Malay version of cai fan (mixed dishes and rice) - their Assam stingray was very tender!
Time flies; this week marks 4 months since I ate fastfood (4 July was the last time I had some). There hasn't been a promotion that piqued my curiosity and most of the time, it's easy to find moderately healthy and delicious dishes that I prefer. If I must indulge, hokkien mee, laksa, lontong, wonton noodles, curry noodles, kway chap, lor mee, char kway teow, oyster omelette and more are less unhealthy and arguably more delicious options. Family, close friends and I are quietly confident that I can hit the 6-month mark. Also, images of hot melted cheese don't make me salivate as much as velvety congee or QQ soup noodles.
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This week, the disproportionately large number of innocent lives lost as a result of the Palestine and Israel conflict is on my mind. My prayers are for the bereaved, for their immense pain to be soothed, as well as for civilians' suffering to come to an end. I also pray for a ceasefire as soon as possible to end this horrific carnage and for more aid to reach where it's needed. Innocent, defenceless people don't deserve to die in such a gruesome way, regardless of their religious beliefs; their lives matter. They also don't deserve to lose their land and homes.
It has been a harrowing 3 years, first with covid followed by Ukraine, massive inflation and now, this. When can the world get a break to rebuild supply chains and return to prosperity? Do you remember a time when essentials such as food, electricity, shelter and transport were much more affordable? I wish millenials and Gen Z will understand - if you cannot afford housing, if you cannot afford to feed your families, this is the price of war and we should protest like hell against it so all of us can live better. 下次见!
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FLASHBACK FRIDAY 6 years ago
yung kung saan saan ako nakakarating ng mga panahon na yan tapos naliligaw ligaw pa ako pero pag nakakita ako ng train station ok naman na nakakauwi at nakakauwi ako ng Boon Lay green lane kasi station namin tapos lahat naman kasi connected lane so easy lang isa to sa mga gusto ko sa Singapore di hassle mag commute kakamiss naman na nga ang SG pati mga noodles HOKKIEN, KWAY TEOW, SOTONG MEE, mas gusto ko kumain sa KOPITIAM sa dami pag pipilian tapos pag wala na ako budget mag saing sa bahay ng kanin bili ng manok sa OLD CHANG KEE o kaya noodle house sa Jurong Point sarap 😊
#kwentongSG #SKL
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Penang, Malaysia
Day 147 – Kuala Lumpur to Penang
Early in the morning, I jumped on a modern commuter train heading south to Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, the main station for long-distance buses in Kuala Lumpur. Looking out the window of my air-conditioned car, I couldn’t help but notice a substantial amount of trash along the edges of the track as we moved south. Arriving at my transfer point to the bus station, I was also stunned by the number of people begging for money outside the terminal– well over 50. Both of these observations contrasted strongly to the polished, modern side of KL that I had seen in the previous days.
The multi-storey bus terminal was chaotic, with passengers criss-crossing in every direction as I arrived. Designed to serve over 50,000 travellers a day, the station was fortunately well signed in both Malay and English. As I navigated through the throngs of people, I eventually located my check-in counter, picked up my ticket, and began hunting for my departure bay. I must have checked my ticket 50 times, as there were countless buses rolling in and out of the departure bays – and I was almost certain I would miss my bus in the hubbub of fellow travellers!
I finally boarded my bus around 9:45am, heading north to Penang, a small island in Northwestern Malaysia. I was looking forward to my stay in Georgetown, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its eclectic architecture, impressive street art, and delicious street food! A 5–hour journey by bus, our route traversed through small towns and green, tropical hills, making occasional stops for washroom breaks (there were none on the bus, much to my dismay) and snacks. The interior of the bus was full of wide, blue velvet chairs, which could fully recline. As I was reading along the route, three young Malay boys ran up and down the aisles, stopping briefly at my chair to check me out, before giggling and running away again. By the time we had arrived in Penang, they had gotten quite comfortable with me, and hung around my chair. I would say a few words in English, which they would delightedly repeat back to me, all while chattering between themselves in Malay.
As our bus arrived at Butterworth, the mainland town adjacent to the island of Penang, I grabbed by pack from under the bus and wove through the crowds, taxi drivers and hawkers to board a city bus to the Jetty. From there, I completed the last leg of my trip with a short ferry ride across the bay to Georgetown, my final destination. Brightly coloured long-tailed boats skimmed across the water next to us, bobbing up and down in the ferry’s wake. We passed a large, moored ocean liner, with barbed wire and life-sized human dummies, intended to ward off pirates.
Streets of Georgetown
As I disembarked in Georgetown, I could immediately see that the city was steeped in history, with influences from all over the world. Georgetown was the first British Settlement in South East Asia, and has continued to act as a trading port since the late 1700s. In the early 19th century, the island of Penang was at the epicenture of spice production and trade – with spice farms on the island producing nutmeg, clove and pepper. During World War 2, the Japanese Army also occupied the island of Penang for 4 years.
Today, the Georgetown represents an intermingling of ethnicity and religion, with Chinese, Peranakan, Malay, Indian, Eurasian, Siamese, and indigenous cultures being primarily represented. In the past, the city was also home to Persian, Filipino, Japanese, Sumatran, Arab, Burmese and Jewish communities – a true global city! Because of all of these influences, modern-day Georgetown is packed with unique, eclectic architecture and pre-war buildings. All four major languages of Malaysia are also spoken in Georgetown: Malay, English, Chinese and Tamil.
Walking through historic Georgetown, I arrived at my guesthouse for the next 3 nights. A converted three-storey heritage shophouse in old Georgetown, The Frame Guesthouse was previously the workshop of a colonial frame maker. The hostel has been upgraded to a modern, clean space, with big open communal areas shared with other travellers.
I quickly met one of my roommates, Tonje, a traveller from Norway, and later met up again with Caroline and Jannes from Kuala Lumpur. As evening fell, we hailed a Grab, heading out to Lok Sok Si Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in all of Malaysia, and an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists living across Southeast Asia. Located at the base of Air Itam mountain, this temple also features predominantly in Chinese New Years celebrations. Since we had the good fortune of visiting Penang around the time of this festival, Lok Sok Si temple was open late, lit with thousands of lights and colourful red lanterns. Although we arrived just as the temple was closing, we were still able to take in the sea of light surround the temple, with the city lights of Georgetown twinkling in the distance.
Nasi Lemak
Heading back into town, we meandered through street food stalls along Chulia street, deciding what we wanted to eat for dinner. Woks sizzled in every direction, with sounds of chopping, stirring and pounding filling the air. The smell of unknown spices and savoury dishes followed us as we walked along. Overwhelmed by the choice, we opted to try numerous dishes, including Nasi Lemak, Char Kway Teow, Beef Rendang, Hokkien Mee, Oh Chien (fried oyster) and Rojak (spicy fruit salad). After only a few bites, it was immediately obvious to me why Georgetown had such a widespread reputation for gastronomy and street food. Needless to say, it was a very tasty way to end my first day in Penang.
Street Food Stalls in Penang
Day 148 – Penang
In the morning, I met up with Caroline and Tonje for breakfast at Mugshot, a nearby (thankfully air-conditioned!) café on Chulia street, and spent a few hours doing planning and bookings for the rest of my trip in Southeast Asia. Mid day, Tonje and I headed out to wander the streets of Georgetown. It was a hot, humid afternoon – as the island is located in a tropical rainforest climate.
Architecture of Penang
In addition to Georgetown’s stunning architecture, the city is also famous for it’s street art. Dozens of wrought iron caricatures have been put up around Georgetown, depicting local culture, ethnic groups, city history and lifestyle. The street art scene has blossomed throughout the city over the past decade, and it was fun to keep our eyes peeled for street art in the most unexpected places – sometimes down side alleys, or above street level.
We walked through the streets of Little India, checking out sari stores and Hindu Temples, the deities inside adorned with fresh floral garlands, called mala. Along the roadside, massive bunches of bananas hung from the ceilings of shophouses. Tonje and I stopped into Restoran Kapitan for a late lunch, tucking into delicious Indian dishes, including claypot chicken biryani, chapati and squid.
Durian Ice Cream
Continuing onward to Armenian Street, we walked along the narrow street, home to the famous “Children on a Bicycle” mural and other street art. Colonial shophouses along the street were selling everything from fresh fruit to souvenirs and other trinkets. Chinese clan houses, local art galleries and small museums were also scattered along the street. Tonje and decided to try durian, sometimes considered to be the “stinkiest fruit in the world”, which in Malaysia, Singapore and other parts of Asia is a well-loved delicacy. That said, we “cheated” a little in this regard, as instead of trying the fresh fruit, we opted instead to try durian ice-cream!
“Children on a Bicycle” Mural
Heading east towards the harbor, we stopped at the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi (kongsi translates to “clan house”), built over 600 years ago by the 5 big Chinese clans of the Hokkien community in ancient Penang. A large, ornate building, this kongsi is a place where Chinese families with the same surname gather to pray to their ancestors. The lavish architecture of the Kongsi was truly stunning, embellished with intricately carved wood and stone, and beams painted in brilliant shades of red, gold, blue and green. The Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi is a complex series of structures, including a temple, and association building, a theatre, and nearby 19th century rowhouses for clan members. Historically, these “clan houses” were almost mini-cities unto themselves, with clan members running their own education, finance and social programs with a self-governing structure.
Streets of Penang
Tonje and I stopped for dinner at the Jetty food hall, tucking in for another terrific meal of char koey teow, poh piah (a large variation of a spring roll) and bowls of steaming laksa. As the evening began to fall, we headed down to the clan jetties on the ocean. There are 6 remaining jetties down by the water that were historically home to various Chinese clans. Clusters of century-old homes have been built on stilts above the ocean, with each jetty named after a Chinese clan. Historically, these jetties were used for loading and unloading cargo ships, where there was sometimes a rivalry between different jetty clans for control of the seatrade and economic resources of Penang.
As we walked through the Chew Jetty, along a boardwalk of creeky planks, and wound between the historical stilted homes, it felt like a bit of a time warp. Many Chinese families still live here, and occasionally we could catch a glimpse into the entryways of homes, many with large shrines to worship their ancestors, the air hazy with swirling clouds of incense. While the jetties now have electricity and running water, many of these community members live in homes that have hardly changed in over 100 years. On the main floor of some of these stilted houses, clan members have turned these spaces into small restaurants and shops.
We reached the end of the jetty, and sat down, taking in the twinkling lights of Butterworth across the bay, listening as music from nearby buskers drifted through the air. Fishing boats and long-tailed boats zipped along the water, returning to town as evening began to fall.
Taoist Temple at Chew Jetty
As the sky darkened, thousands of red lanterns began to shimmer overhead as we headed back into town, passing several Taoist temples at the entrance to Chew Jetty, dedicated to the God of Heaven and the Taoist Sea Deity, Haisen. This day in Penang was near perfect – packed with incredible company, unique architecture, cultural experiences, street art, and (importantly!) fantastic food.
Day 149 – Penang
In the morning, Tonje and I threw on running shoes and workout clothes, grabbed breakfast at Mugshot, and jumped on a bus, taking us up into the lush, dense jungle surrounding Penang Hill. As we passed through a neighbourhood shopping street near the base of Air Itam, our bus inched through heavy pedestrian traffic, with locals bustling between stores and stalls, doing last-minute holiday shopping before the official Chinese New Year’s celebration the following day – February 16, 2018.
We arrived at the base of Penang Hill, and bought our one-way ticket for the funicular, taking us up the slopes to the top of the hill. It was an overcast day, with humidity heavy in the air, and as we ascended, we could see little more than a hazy view over the distant towns of Georgetown and Butterworth. Tonje and I wandered around the top of Penang Hill, where there were numerous lookout points and walkways through the area’s spectacular rainforest. A small mosque, a Hindu temple, and several residential homes and guesthouses are scattered nearby.
Funicular up Penang Hill
Hundreds of birds chattered overhead as we meandered around the hilltop, with dusky-leaf monkeys and macaques scampering through nearby trees. We had decided to hike down from Penang Hill to the Botanical Gardens, which took us deeper into the jungle as we descended on a steep jeep track. Leaving the tourism hub behind, we saw more and more flora and fauna as we went along – including countless monkeys, and the occasional snake slithering out of our way. It took us about an hour and a half to descend the 5 km zig-zagging track – a true knee-knacker! I was thrilled to finally arrived back on flat ground at the botanical gardens. With some difficulty, we figured out the bus route back into town, and arrived back in Georgetown in the late afternoon. I had a shower and a brief nap, before doing some more life-admin and Vietnam visa applications.
At dinner time, all of the street markets and food stalls were closed for Chinese New Years, so Tonje, Egle and I went out for tacos on Love Lane. True to its name, this lane was apparently once the location of many brothels, and was where Peranakan and Chinese businessmen would reportedly keep their mistresses.
Our Mexican dinner, though from a cuisine on the other side of the word, was still delicious – further solidifying my opinion that Penang can do no wrong when it comes to food! As we enjoyed Tiger beers and tacos, a steady procession of buskers, fire performers and street artists moved along the narrow laneway. Live music floated towards us from every direction. I clearly remember how present and alive I felt in that moment, feeling deeply linked to cosmopolitan group of people surrounding me – locals and travellers alike - even though they were strangers to me. In that moment, people from countless backgrounds, countries, ethnicities, and religions were gathered in the same place, all collectively enjoying good food and entertainment.
After almost 6 months of travel at that point, every day I felt more strongly that, as global citizens, we have far more in common than the differences that separate us.
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48 Holiao Top 10 Penang Hokkien Mee List
48 Holiao Top 10 Penang Hokkien Mee List
This Top 10 Hokkien Mee list is created by my personal preferences and there are no sequencing of which is number 1. or number 10., they are all my favorites. The list are as below: San Dai Hokkien Mee, Air Itam – Classic and Addictive Operation Hours: 7:30am-4:00pm(Monday Close)Contact: 016-4100213(Jocelyn) Penang Famous Hokkien Mee – Green House Prawn Mee Corner Address:133-A, Jalan Burma,…
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Best places in Asia to visit for your next holiday
(CNN) — Two centuries ago, trips to Asia were reserved for wealthy merchants, ambassadors and colonial elite who could afford grand and expensive voyages.
But that travel scenario has been turned on its head.
With a proliferation of affordable flights, versatile accommodations, high-speed rails and increased international connectivity, it’s easier than ever to visit Asia.
Why go? The world’s biggest continent has long captivated travelers with its natural beauty, distinct cultural traditions, ancient architecture and absolutely delicious food.
Here are 17 of Asia’s best destinations — a diverse mix of cities, islands and entire countries — to consider for your next adventure.
Bhutan
Paro Taktsang — also known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery — is one of Bhutan’s most famous sites.
ED JONES/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Anchoring the eastern end of the Himalayas, Bhutan showcases the very best of mother nature — picture dense forests, deep valleys and cloud-piercing peaks.
Travelers typically land in Paro, home to the country’s only international airport. The historic town is nestled in a verdant valley, surrounded by ancient Buddhist temples and monasteries.
The most notable is Paro Taktsang (also known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery), a sacred site that seems to cling to a cliff in the upper Paro Valley.
Aglow with white facades, gold-plated domes and rust-red accents, the 17th-century temple sits alongside a cave network, known as a sacred meditation site.
The steep, two-hour pilgrimage to the monastery is challenging, but the payoff is unforgettable.
Penang, Malaysia
Penang’s capital offers culture, cuisine and so much more.
Located off the western coast of Malaysia, the island of Penang is a mecca for food and architecture lovers.
George Town, the island’s main city, makes for an ideal home base thanks to a dynamic cityscape that’s punctuated by British colonial architecture, Buddhist temples and ornate Chinese manor houses.
This seaside city is known as one of the world’s top food destinations, serving up a delicious mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisine.
You’ll crave dishes like Hokkien mee (fried prawn noodles), roti canai (an Indian-influenced flat bread dish with dal or curry) and Penang laksa for years after visiting.
El Nido, Philippines
Philippines’ El Nido, located in Palawan, is home to some of the world’s most beauitful beaches.
courtesy El Nido
Searching for tropical paradise? You’ll find it in El Nido. Located on the northern tip of Palawan Island, in the southwestern Philippines, the archipelago plays host to turquoise waters, mysterious lagoons, dozens of beaches and secret caves.
Surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs, Bacuit Bay is the crown jewel. It’s here where you can explore the mysterious lagoons via nimble kayaks.
Travelers spend their days snorkeling and diving, or cruising around remote and hidden beaches across the archipelago.
Many tour operators arrange adventure-packed boating trips, complete with grilled seafood lunches served on board.
Bali, Indonesia
Bali’s Nyang Nyang beach is a mile-long strip of golden sand, framed by jungled cliffs, green meadows and blue ocean.
Shutterstock
Beautiful Bali, Asia’s most famous wellness getaway, sits in the center of Indonesia’s vast archipelago. Of the country’s 18,000-some islands, Bali is easily the most famous, drawing more than 5.6 million foreign visitors every year.
Even amid the popularity, the island oozes relaxation and a sense of spirituality. It can be felt across the territory — in the imposing cliffs in Uluwatu, tranquil waves in Nusa Dua, trendy beach clubs in Seminyak and dramatic rice paddies and temples in Ubud.
For those who love an adventure, the island’s mountain trails and secret coves will showcase a more remote side of this well-trodden paradise.
Then there’s the food: from healthy juice bars to beachfront seafood barbecues, the dining scene will spoil you for choice.
Seoul, South Korea
Seoul is filled with impressive Buddhist temples.
Korea Tourism Organization
Seoul might have a well-deserved reputation as one of Asia’s more futuristic cities, but the capital of South Korea is also home to a wealth of ancient landmarks that provide a peek into the past.
There’s the sprawling Gyeongbok Palace, Changdeok Palace, Deoksu Palace and elegant hanok (traditional wooden homes), just to name a few.
After exploring the city’s imperial history, travelers can get a sense of what makes modern Seoul tick in upbeat neighborhoods like Hongdae.
As the creative heart of Seoul, this is where you’ll find popular K-beauty boutiques, restaurants, bars, street performers, karaoke and an endless array of clubs.
Rajasthan, India
The facade of the Hawa Mahal or “Palace of Winds” in the old walled city of Jaipur.
ROBERTO SCHMIDT/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
An arid desert region in northwestern India, Rajasthan has long been considered the land of kings and colors.
Most first-time travelers trace the rainbow through the regal region, starting with Jaipur, aka the “Pink City.”
So named for its salmon-hued buildings of the Old City, Jaipur showcases Rajasthan at its best: ornate palaces, buzzing bazaars and the UNESCO-listed Amber Fort.
A deeper dive will take you to Jodhpur (the Blue City), Udaipur (the Gold City) and Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, where Royal Bengal Tigers rule the land.
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Cambodia’s Angkor Wat temple is on many travelers’ must-see lists.
MLADEN ANTONOV/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Over 2.5 million tourists descend on the city of Siem Reap in Cambodia every year with a common purpose: to see Angkor Wat.
Dating to the 12th century, this UNESCO-listed Khmer temple, part of the massive Angkor complex, is a staple on every bucket list for good reason.
The incredible architecture features distinct towers, intricate carvings and stone corridors that feel cool underfoot.
And within the Angkor Archaeological Park, you’ll also find two other major temples — Angkor Thom and the Bayon Temple — all surrounded by dense jungle.
After seeing the sites, travelers will want to explore Siem Reap’s chic restaurant scene or head farther afield to less-frequented temples.
A few worthy side trips include Banteay Srei (nicknamed the “Pink Temple” for its sandstone structure) or 12th-century Beng Mealea where encroaching foliage and vines create an eerie, mysterious atmosphere.
Hong Kong
The 120-year-old Star Ferry is Hong Kong’s oldest form of public transport. The origins of this commuter service can be traced back to one man.
A former British colony with deep Cantonese roots, Hong Kong embodies the urban jungle archetype.
The architectural density, narrow city streets, soaring skyscrapers and fast-paced way of life set the tone for an action-packed visit.
Victoria Harbour flows through it all. The famed Star Ferry cruises across the jade green water — a peaceful scene that’s starred on many a postcard.
Hong Kong’s cosmopolitan charms reveal themselves in Central, where glamorous bars, restaurants and art galleries await.
And across the harbor, Tsim Sha Tsui’s museums and mega malls boggle the mind. Meanwhile, more traditional districts such as Yau Ma Tei and Sham Shui Po showcase mom-and-pops cha chaan teng (post-World War II diners) and lively outdoor markets.
No matter which district you explore in Hong Kong, there’s always something new to uncover — whether it be hidden down an alley or up inside a commercial tower.
Hanoi and Phu Quoc, Vietnam
Heading to Hanoi? Here’s a look at five of the top dishes every visitor needs to try while in the Vietnamese capital — egg coffee included.
As the capital of Vietnam, Hanoi is a hub of history, culture and endless energy.
For first-time travelers, the Old Quarter is the best place to start. This labyrinth of lanes reveals French colonial architecture, hardworking hawkers, artisanal crafts and no shortage of restaurants.
It’s busy and chaotic but navigating the crowded streets, where motorbikes reign, is half the fun.
After soaking up the history of Hanoi, travelers can chase the sun to Phu Quoc.
The 28-island district, located off the coast of Cambodia but still part of Vietnam, is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Southeast Asia — not to mention the world’s longest oversea cable car.
Whether you stay on more developed Phu Quoc Island or ultra-remote Hon Xuong, the region promises island hopping, snorkeling, diving, sandy shores and more.
The Great Wall and Xi’an, China
Xi’an’s Islamic heritage is best observed in the Muslim Quarter, or Huimin Jie in Mandarin, located in the center of Xi’an old town.
A remarkable feat of engineering, The Great Wall is a must-see when in China.
Stretching for anywhere from 1,500 to 13,000 miles (estimates vary), the fortified wall runs across northwestern China like an stony spine.
While carefully restored areas like Mutianyu make for an easy stroll, forgotten stretches like Jiankou feel wild and steep.
The latter provides an unforgettable adventure across crumbling corners and overgrown watchtowers, but it’s more suitable for experienced hikers.
Continuing the historic tour of China, Xi’an is another highlight. Southwest of Beijing, this ancient city once played host to merchants, poets and warriors in the heyday of the Silk Road.
You can cycle atop the city’s beautiful Ming-era city walls, explore the leafy lanes of the Muslim Quarter and experience the famed Terracotta Warriors.
As one of the world’s most revered archeological sites, the lifelike stone warriors serve as guardians of the tomb of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the founder of the Qin dynasty.
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Chiang Rai’s Wat Rong Khun — better known as the “White Temple” — is a popular city attraction.
Taylor Weidman/Getty Images AsiaPac/Getty Images
Located near the Golden Triangle (at the confluence of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos) in northern Thailand, the city of Chiang Rai is often overshadowed by its neighbor, Chiang Mai.
But for those who appreciate unspoiled natural scenery and a slow-paced lifestyle, the atmosphere is just right.
Among the highlights around town, the ornate Blue Temple and 14th-century Wat Phra Kaew temple showcase historic Lanna architecture, while photogenic Wat Rong Khun (aka the “White Temple”) serves as a modern gem.
The blinding white facade is covered in glittering mirrored chips, while unexpected contemporary artwork lines the interiors.
Chiang Rai also draws travelers to sample its northern style of Thai food, best enjoyed at no-frills local restaurants and markets.
Staples include ubiquitous grilled pork sausages, khao soi (northern noodle curry) and gaeng hung lay (pork curry with ginger), but there’s a whole world of food to explore.
Luang Prabang, Laos
The former capital of Laos, beautiful Luang Prapang is home to colorful temples and dramatic natural scenery.
It’s hard not to fall in love Luang Prabang. Surrounded by mountains, the UNESCO-protected ancient capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom feeds the soul both figuratively and literally.
You’ll be surrounded by sacred rivers and golden wats, robed monks and silent meditation — an ideal getaway for those who need to unplug.
And then there’s the food. Laotian cuisine is famously fresh and excellent, drawing largely from local produce and ingredients.
The most popular dishes include fish or pork laap (akin to a spicy meat salad), khao jee pa-tay (banh mi-style sandwiches), paeng pet (spicy fried duck meat mixed with blood, organs, and herbs), herb-stuffed sausages and buffalo jerky.
Kathmandu, Nepal
The Bouda Stupa is the centre of Buddhist spirituality in Kathmandu.
Frank Bienewald/LightRocket/Getty Images
As the most likely starting point on an adventure through Nepal, Kathmandu captivates travelers from the moment they touch down.
The labyrinth of little lanes, kaleidoscopic bazaars, speeding rickshaws, the scent of simmering chilies… it’s a sensory experience like no other.
In the center of it all is Durbar Square, a UNESCO-listed palace complex that marks the heart of Old Town and serves as an extraordinary example of Nepal’s traditional architecture.
All the while, the mighty Himalayas loom in the distance. With Kathmandu as a base, you can tackle various trails, including the one-day Champadevi Hill hike which weaves through a pine forest toward a spectacular summer.
For something more intense, the five-day Shivapuri circuit traverses the namesake national park (famed for its diverse flora and fauna) and rewards travelers with excellent views of the Himalayas.
Yogyakarta, Indonesia
A Buddha statue at Indonesia’s Borobudur Temple.
Oscar Siagian/Getty Images AsiaPac/Getty Images
While Bali might be Indonesia’s go-to beach destination, Yogyakarta lures history enthusiasts from all over the world.
Located on the island of Java, this ancient city is considered the cultural capital of Indonesia thanks to its vibrant art scene, indie boutiques, deep-rooted rituals and religious sites.
This is where you’ll find two of the country’s most important UNESCO-listed archaeological sites: Prambanan and the Borobudur temples.
Built in the 9th century, beautiful Borobudur is said to the largest Buddhist temple in the world and is particularly majestic at sunrise. Meanwhile, imposing Prambanan features ornate spires and Hindu architectural elements.
As a long-standing tradition, Prambanan hosts nightly Ramayana ballet performances — an unforgettable dance-drama that taps into the roots of Javanese culture — that are both enriching and entertaining.
Kyoto, Japan
Tokyo might be the commercial heart of Japan, but Kyoto embodies its heritage. The city is home to no less than 1,600 temples and 17 UNESCO sites, not to mention postcard-worthy scenes everywhere you go.
Most notably, the traditional district of Gion is where you’ll find kimono-clad geishas strolling across bridges, while chefs meticulously prepare multi-course kaiseki meals. It’s not a movie — it’s real life.
Exploring the city’s various temples could takes weeks, months, years…. But if you’re here for the highlight reel, must-visit landmarks include Nanzen-ji Temple, Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine and Kinkaku-ji (the “Golden Pavilion”) — all promise beautiful gardens and traditional architecture.
Elsewhere in the city, the mystical Sagano Bamboo Forest draws its fair share of visitors, as does the 8th-century Fushimi Inari Shrine atop Mount Inari, famed for its photogenic orange torii gates.
Sri Lanka
The ancient rock fortress of Sigiriya is located in north central Sri Lanka.
ALEX OGLE/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
This teardrop-shaped island nation can be found off the southeast coast of India.
Despite its urban sprawl, capital Colombo feels slow-paced and approachable thanks to its colonial architecture, wide streets and serene Buddhist temples.
From there, most travelers head south to the colonial fort of Galle, which feels like a walled village on the coast, before tracing the southern coastline for whale watching, powdery sand beaches and perhaps an elephant safari in Uda Walawe National Park.
Then it’s up into the cool highlands, where winding roads zig through lush tea plantations and old British hilltowns, like Nuwara Eliya.
Up north, you’ll find what’s dubbed the Cultural Triangle for its ancient and natural wonders, including the iconic Sigiriya Rock — a former palace-fortress built atop a dramatic rock plateau — the Dambulla cave temples, and the beautiful imperial city of Kandy, just to name a few.
Maldives
Trans Maldivian Airways is the world’s largest float plane operator. We go on the job with one of its most experienced pilots, Canadian Andrew Farr.
Remote and romantic, the Maldives is a top choice for honeymooners for a reason. Set off in the Indian Ocean, the 1,929-island archipelago is home to consistently tropical weather with temperatures hovering around 86 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius) throughout the year, though it’s best to avoid monsoon season from June to August.
It’s the kind of place where you can relax, unwind and tune out the world for as long as you like. Or you can snorkel and dive, surf and island hop — the experience is totally up to you.
But it would be a shame if you missed the rich marine life. In particular, areas like Hanifaru Bay and the Blue Hole, both in the northerly Baa Atoll, are known for incredible visibility and cyan water that’s teeming with manta rays, whale sharks, turtles, and colorful reef fish.
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Late night Options. 🍜👍🏻 (at Green House Hokkien Mee (青屋蝦麵)) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt8-6DHhd8e/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=151qbs5oph9wf
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Kuala Lumpur’s Choice Chinese Cooking
Chomp your way through the Malaysian capital’s storied eateries.
The city blocks are chock-full with heritage eateries and roadside stalls. On a single outing visitors will most likely see satay (top left) licked by flames, the vermillion skin of Peking duck (top right), chopsticks pull at a tangle of beef noodles (bottom left), and billows of hot air coursing out of behemoth bamboo steamers holding a trove of dim sum (bottom right). Photos by: Julian Manning
Plumes of cigarette smoke rise like white ribbons, coiling amidst the clamour of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. What incense is to Tao temples, cigarettes are to these streets. Warm notes of roasted chestnuts are replaced by the beer-soaked breath of elderly men quarrelling in Cantonese as I walk down Petaling Road—the spine of a neighbourhood predominantly made up of Chinese immigrants new and old, and throngs of tourists eager to eat.
Some people insist that Chinatowns are the same everywhere. They are, simply, wrong. From haggling over sweet pork sausages in Bangkok to rolling dice over whisky shots in San Francisco, in my experience, Chinatowns are far from cookie cutter replicas of each other. And if I had to choose one in particular to challenge that ill-informed notion, it would be the wonderfully scruffy streets of KL’s Chinatown.
Cherry-red arches and faux Yeezys on ‘discount’ hardly define the area. Cooks are the core of the community, whether they don a sweat-stained ganji or a double-breasted chef’s jacket, and you will realise as much walking down the streets. The culinary roots of this Chinatown’s inhabitants spread out in a tangle, like that of a banyan tree. Baba-Nyona cuisine, also known as Peranakan cuisine, is a mix of influences from early Chinese immigrants who integrated themselves with the local Malays. They are represented by dishes like beef rendang and nasil emak, the latter a medley of coconut milk rice, sambal, fried anchovies, a boiled egg, with the typical addition of chicken. Later waves of immigrants brought along delicacies from their respective regions: char siu pork and dim sum of the Yue cuisine, porridges of Fujian or Hookien cuisine, and the much-coveted Hainanese or Hunan chicken rice, to name a few. In the bylanes of this bustling quarter, culinary traditions stick to these streets like the patina of a well-used wok.
Here, vermilion-hued ducks hang from hawker stands, glowing like the gauze lanterns that line the streets, outshined only by flames dancing below clay pots filled with golden rice and morsels of chicken, fish, and lap cheong sausages. Each stall and station is manned by a master of their craft. Plastic chairs become portholes to skewers laden with charcoal grilled meat and bowlfuls of fragrant asam laksa, wafting tangy notes of tamarind, the broth waiting to be swiftly slurped up.
Finding a memorable meal in KL’s Chinatown is as easy as promenading down its central streets. A hot jumble of thick hokkien mee noodles have been a staple at Kim Lian Lee for decades, the once-upon-a-time stall now a two-storey tall institution. Just across the street is Koon Kee, another neighbourhood stalwart serving up their popular wan tan mee, char siu pork-topped Cantonese noodles tossed in a sweet black sauce, served with pork and shrimp dumplings. And just down Madras Lane (the street’s name has officially been changed, but locals still use its original title) lies a long line for yong tau foo, tofu typically stuffed with minced pork and fish paste, which has had customers queuing up for over 60 years. The catch? In this hubbub, it is all too easy to miss some of the less central but equally important eateries.
This storied assortment of kopitiams (coffee shops), family restaurants, and outdoor stalls from the halcyon days of Chinese culinary influence in Kuala Lumpur are tucked away from the bustle, a few even mapped outside of the boundaries of Chinatown. So if your palate craves a bit of the past in the present, weave in and out of Chinatown and explore restaurants where the same dishes have been served up for decades, for very good reasons.
1. Sang Kee
Est. 1970s
Address: 5A, Jalan Yap Ah Loy, City Centre
At dinner time Chinatown’s sidewalks (top) turn into a menagerie of meals. Chef Won San (bottom) gets to work on an order of freshwater prawn noodles. Photo by: Julian Manning
Sang har mee, or freshwater prawn noodles, are quite the treat in KL. The best sang har mee places are typically stalls, yet they do not come cheap, the most popular joints serving up the dish from anywhere between RM50-90/Rs835-1,500. Even though the portions are usually enough to fill two people, for those kind of prices you want to be sure you’re indulging in the best sang har mee in the neighbourhood.
Tucked in a discreet alleyway in the shade of pre-World War II buildings, on a little lane where late night courtesans would once congregate, lies Sang Kee. For over four decades this open air kitchen has been serving up some of the best freshwater prawn noodles in KL.
Those interested in a performance can inch up in front of the old man behind the wok and watch him work his wizardry, he doesn’t mind. Two beautifully big freshwater prawns are butterflied and cooked in prawn roe gravy, stirred in with egg, slivers of ginger, and leafy greens. Wong San, the chef, understands his wok like Skywalker understands the force—meaning, the wok hei (wok heat or temperature) is on point.
Once on your plate, plucking a plump piece of prawn out of the open shell is an easy feat. The fresh and supple meat is charged with the gravy, bite into it, and a flash flood of flavour courses out. In KL most versions of sang har mee sport crisp, uncooked yee mee noodles, which are then drenched in the prawn-imbued sauce. A lot of people love ’em this way, but I personally feel this gives the noodles the texture of a wet bird’s nest. Sang Kee’s noodles are cut thick, boiled, and then stir-fried, coated with oodles of scrambled egg, a style that lets the prawn’s flavours permeate every bit of the dish. At Sang Kee, for most folks a single p
ortion is enough for two at RM65/Rs1,085 a plate, but if that’s too steep a price, you can get the dish made with regular prawns for significantly less.
2. Soong Kee Beef Noodles
Est. 1945
Address: 86, Jalan Tun H S Lee, City Centre
The fine people at Soong Kee have been serving up beef noodles since World War II, and the product speaks for itself. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, but don’t worry about waiting around too long. Usually a server will squeeze you in at one of the many large round tables with plenty of neighbours who don’t mind the company. I love this approach because it means you get a good look at what your table-mates are munching on. That being said, newcomers should inaugurate their Soong Kee experience with beef ball soup and beef mince noodles—simple but hearty dishes that will give you a good idea of why the place has stuck around (small bowl of noodles from RM7/Rs120).
3. Sek Yuen
Est.1948
Address: 315, Jalan Pudu, Pudu
Mealtimes beckon travellers to dig into bowlfuls of beef ball soup (bottom left), pluck of piping hot scallop dumplings (middle left), and perhaps chow down on a myriad of meat skewers (top right). For dessert, munch on crunchy ham chim peng (bottom right), delicious doughnuts filled with red bean paste. If the flavour is too earthy for you, just pick up an entire bag of regular doughnuts (top left) or roasted chestnuts (middle right) from one of the city’s many street vendors. Photos by: Julian Manning
Sek Yuen is made up of three separate sections, spread out over adjacent lots a few feet from each other. One is being renovated, another is the original 1948 location, and the last is the crowded AC section built in the 1970s. I wanted to eat in the original section, but by the time I arrived the service was slowing down and everyone was dining in the AC section. When in doubt, follow the locals.
Two noteworthy staples of the restaurant, steam-tofu-and-fish-paste as well as the crab balls, were already sold out by the time I placed my order. So I happily went for the famous roast duck with some stir fried greens. The duck was delicious; the skin extra crispy from being air-dried, yet the meat was juicy with hints of star anise, which paired well with the house sour plum sauce. But what I enjoyed most was the people-watching. A Cantonese rendition of “Happy Birthday” played non-stop on the restaurant’s sound system for the entire 50 minutes I was there. The soundtrack lent extra character to the packed house of local Chinese diners, most of them regulars. To my right, a group of rosy-cheeked businessmen decimated a bottle of 12-year Glenlivet, and were perhaps the most jovial chaps I’ve ever seen. In front of me, a group of aunties were in party mode, laughing the night away with unbridled cackles. Perhaps the most entertaining guest was the worried mother who kept scurrying over to the front door, pulling the curtains aside to check if her sons were outside smoking. The sensory overload hit the spot. You could tell people were comfortable here, like it was a second home—letting loose in unison, reliving old memories while creating new ones.
I learned that when all sections of the restaurant are operational, Sek Yuen is said to employ around 100 people, many of whom have stuck with the restaurant for a very long time, just like the wood fire stoves that still burn in the kitchen (duck from RM30/Rs500).
4. Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam
Est.1956
Address: 1, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
Although it has shifted from Lorong Panggung to the quieter Jalan Balai Polis, Ho Kow Kopitiam remains outrageously popular. Customers are for the most part locals and Asian tourists, unwilling to leave the queue even when the wait extends past an hour. In fact, there is a machine that manages the number system of the queue, albeit with the help of a frazzled young man whose sole job is telling hungry people they’ll have to wait a long time before they get any food. It’s safe to say the gent needs a raise. If you haven’t guessed already, get there early, before they open at 7:30 a.m.—otherwise you’ll be peering through the entrance watching the best dishes get sold out.
Many tables had the champeng (an iced mix of coffee and tea), but I’m a sucker for the hot kopi (coffee) with a bit of kaya toast, airy white toast slathered with coconut egg jam and butter; treats good enough to take my mind off of waiting for an hour on my feet. I then dove into the dim sum, and became rather taken by the fungus and scallop dumplings. The curry mee, whether it is chicken or prawn, was a very popular option as well. When it comes to dessert, the dubiously-named black gluttonous rice soup sells out fast, which devastated the people I was sharing my table with.
They also serve an assortment of kuih for dessert, including my personal favourite, the kuih talam. It is a gelatinous square made up of two layers—one green, one white. They share the same base, a mixture of rice flour, green pea flower, and tapioca flour. The green layer is coloured and flavoured by the juice of pandan leaves, and the white one with coconut milk. For someone like myself, who doesn’t have a big sweet tooth, the savoury punch, balanced by a cool, refreshing finish make this dessert a quick favourite (kaya toast and coffee for RM5.9/Rs100).
5. Kafe Old China
Est. 1920s
Address: 11, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
A relic from the 1920s, the Peranakan cuisine at Old China continues to draw in guests. The ambience seems trapped in another era, as is the food, in the best way possible. Post-modern, emerald green pendant lamps, feng shui facing windows, and old timey portraits make up the decor. A meal here is not complete without the beef rendang, hopefully with some blue peaflower rice. It is also one of the few places to get a decent glass of wine in Chinatown (mains from RM11/Rs190).
6. Cafe Old Market Square
Est. 1928
Address: 2, Medan Pasar, City Centre
Kuala Lumpur skyline (top left) lies adjacent to the low-slung Chinatown neighbourhood (bottom right); A regular customer looks inside the original Sek Yuen restaurant (bottom left); Cooked on charcoal, the traditional clay pots brim with chunks of chicken, slivers of lap cheong (Chinese sausage), and morsels of salted fish (top right). Photos by: Julian Manning (food stall, woman), BusakornPongparnit/Moment/Getty Images (skyline), f11photo/shutterstock (market)
There is something incredibly satisfying about cracking a half boiled egg in two at this café, the sunny yolk framed by a cup of kopi, filled to the point the dark liquid decorates the mug with splash marks, and slabs of kaya toast. Despite a new lick of paint, I could feel the almost 100 years of history welling out of the antique, yellow window shutters lining the three storey facade of the building, the last floor operating as the café’s art gallery.
This place won me over as the perfect spot to read my morning paper, everything from the high-ceilings to the petit bistro tables allowed me to pretend I was in another era—a time when people still talked to each other instead of tapping at their smartphones like starved pigeons pecking at breadcrumbs. Yet, the best time to see this place in its full form is post noon, when the lunch crowd buzzes inside. Droves of locals cluster in front of the nasi lemak stand placed inside the café, hijabs jostling for the next plate assembled by an unsmiling woman with the unflinching demeanour of a person who has got several years of lunchtime rushes under her belt (lunch from RM6.5/Rs110, breakfast from RM1/Rs17).
7. Capital Cafe
Est. 1956
Address: 21, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, City Centre
Beneath the now defunct City Hotel, Capital Cafe is your one-stop satay paradise. The cook coaxes up flames from a bed of charcoal with a bamboo hand fan, using his other hand to rotate fistfuls of beef and chicken skewers liberally brushed with a sticky glaze. The satay is a perfect paradox, so sweet, yet so savoury; the meat soft, but also blistered with a crisp char. This snack pairs wonderfully with hot kopi—perhaps because it cuts the sweetness—served by a couple of uncles brimming with cheeky smiles and good conversation (satay from RM4/Rs70).
8. Yut Kee
Est.1928
Address: 1, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit
Like many of KL’s golden era restaurants, Yut Kee moved just down the road from its original location. Serving Hainanese fare, like mee hoon and egg foo yoong, with a mix of English and Malay influences, YutKee has remained one of the most famous breakfast joints in all of KL for almost 100 years. At breakfast it features an almost even mix of locals and tourists, the former better at getting to the restaurant early to snag their regular tables.
During peak breakfast hours, waiters slap down face-sized slabs of chicken and pork chops, bread crumbed and fried golden brown, sitting in a pool of matching liquid gold gravy, speckled with peas, carrots, and potatoes. You can’t go wrong with either one. If your gut’s got the girth, follow up a chop with some hailam mee, fat noodles tossed with pork and tiny squid.
On weekends guests also get the opportunity to order two specials, the incredible pork roast and the marble cake. A glutton’s advice is to take an entire marble cake away with you. By not eating it there you save room for their seriously generous portions. The cake also lasts up to five days, which gives you about four more days than you’ll actually need. Plus it makes for a perfect souvenir, especially since the Yut Kee branded cake box is so iconic.
One of the many delighted people I gave a slice of cake to back home hit a homerun when they put into words what was so special about the marble cake: “It’s not super fancy, with extra bells and whistles, but it tastes like what cake is supposed to…like something your grandma would make at home.” As he said the last words he reached for another sliver of cake (chicken chop is for RM 10.5/Rs180, a slice of marble cake is for RM1.3/Rs20).
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source http://cheaprtravels.com/kuala-lumpurs-choice-chinese-cooking/
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When we travel, especially to new places, it is a feast for the senses. These days, tourists are also feasting more and discovering unique cuisines a destination has to offer.
That was the case when I visited South America recently. With my tour group of 15 people, we went to Lima, Peru, and ate in Maido, which was named Latin America’s best restaurant of 2018 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. We were really lucky to get a table there as you need to book at least a month ahead and be prepared to cough up at least US$202 (RM831) per person to dine there.
Maido is famous for its Nikkei cuisine which is basically Japanese-style cooking with Peruvian ingredients. That night we had a nine-course omakase dinner, plus three extras. Omakase means that the selection of dishes is left for the chef to decide.
Fortunately, our chef’s choices were excellent and we had an amazing experience that left us happily satiated. One of the more memorable dishes was fried guinea pig! This may be a strange thing for us to eat but it is a popular dish in Latin America.
On a previous trip, my group and I made a detour to Bangkok while on our way home from visiting Lake Baikal in Russia. We wanted to check out some fine dining options, and were lucky to get a table at The Nahm, a restaurant that is also on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2018.
Guinea pig, popular daily meat for Latin American; Maido makes it in fine dine table. Photo: Apple Vacations
Besides eating at top-billed restaurants, the women in our group also attended a four-hour Thai cooking class which they found to be great fun and informative.
This reminds me of a few other tour groups I’ve led where the members opted to learn how to make sushi in Kyoto, Japan, and kimchi in South Korea.
I find that more tourists these days are asking for better food experiences to be included in their tour schedules. They want to eat well and discover local cuisines, as well as to learn about the ingredients and cooking methods.
This makes me happy because combining gastronomical experiences with travel is always a winning formula. Eating good food never fails to put people in a happy mood, except perhaps when you start to worry about gaining weight!
This growing interest, in a way, forces tour agencies to do more research on local cuisines and where to get them, in order to meet their clients’ demands. It’s a far cry from the tours organised in, say, the 1980s when food was seen as a “by-the-way item” and meals would be of the safest type – like chicken and fries – or predictable localised Chinese food for the unadventurous.
To me, one the greatest joys about travelling is the chance to explore and experience new things.
So, apart from learning about local customs and traditions, being able to savour local cuisines is a way to create some of the most wonderful memories of a place.
For example, anyone who joins Hong Kong-based celebrity food critic Chua Lam’s Gourmet Tour in Tokyo would be over the moon at the chance to dine at Ginza Ukai-Tei. The famous restaurant is a Michelin 3-star wagyu teppanyaki house in which Japan’s Prime Minister Shinzo Abe hosted US President Donald Trump in 2017.
Tourists enjoying a fun-filled sushi making workshop during their Kyoto trip. Photo: Apple Vacations
Sometimes, even the way food is displayed or presented can be delightful and memorable as it offers a kind of visual treat. At the end of a tour, tourists will understand local delicacies through the art of preparing the dishes.
A culinary masterpiece enhances dining and cultural experiences. Of course, this is not limited to fine dining as Malaysians can attest to just how wonderful hawker/street food is. So too are Taiwan’s night market snacks, Hong Kong’s kopitiam fare, Thailand’s street offerings, Vietnam’s noodle dishes and more.
That’s why I see an increasing number of my clients asking for a combination of fine dining and down-to-Earth “real” local fare. I also see a growing sophistication of palates among Malaysians visiting Europe. Many of them who plan on going to countries such Britain, France, Italy, Spain and Austria, look for itineraries that include visiting wineries or farms to see how the ingredients are grown and harvested.
So what about visitors to our country? How does their food experience measure up?
We take it for granted that they know and love our food but that’s not always the case.
I have been in the travel industry for many years and I still feel that so much more can be done to promote Malaysian food abroad, especially Nyonya cuisine. It is one of the most remarkable and exciting cuisines in the world because it has roots in so many cultures.
Celebrity food critic Chua Lam’s Gourmet Tour: a feast of learning journey with the master. Photo: Apple Vacations
There are other Malaysian specialities which we’re proud of that are also products of our multi-cultural society like nasi lemak, bak kut teh, Hokkien mee, ayam percik and satay.
Yet, most tourists only find out about our wonderful food after they’ve arrived in the country. Our neighbours do a much better job in promoting and marketing their food culture – which is very similar to ours – internationally, and even staking their claim on certain dishes that we believe “belong” to us.
Not only that, some countries like Thailand have been brilliant in packaging their traditional foods and snacks like tomyam, green curry and mango sticky rice for export.
It is sad that we do not have a capable organisation which can provide guidance to Malaysian food manufacturers on how to improve the quality and packaging of their products.
I also notice a growing global trend in organic food, and I strongly believe we can develop this part of the food industry too. I have brought visitors from Taiwan, Hong Kong, China, Japan, Korea and Europe who are interested in trying organic Malaysian food to restaurants like Song-Yan in Pahang and they were very happy with their meals.
This shows that we have the talent and produce/ingredients to win over international visitors with fussy palates.
Perhaps our Tourism, Arts and Culture Ministry can work on promoting our food culture on the international platform. I remember a Government-funded initiative launched about 10 years ago in which a string of Jom Makan restaurants in Britain and Japan were opened as a way to promote our cuisine. However, this initiative was deemed a failure – all the restaurants closed down after only a few years of operation.
Is Malaysian food tourism not important enough to be taken seriously? Should the industry not get some much-needed financial boost? The Taiwan Visitors Association, Japan National Tourism Organisation and Korea Tourism Organisation are among the best marketers in food tourism, perhaps we could learn some things from them.
Delicious, authentic food is one of the biggest attractions of any destination because it makes one’s memories a lot sweeter, thus tempting visitors to return for more.
As Ernest Hemingway said, “It is good to have an end to journey toward, but it is the journey that matters in the end.” And how can we not eat and try local delicacies while on a journey?
Leesan, the founder of Apple Vacations, has travelled to 121 countries, six continents and enjoys sharing his travel stories and insights. He has also authored two books.
from Food – Star2.com http://bit.ly/2VxFNq7
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Penang street art and street foods - #ChineseAndMalayCuisine, #Malaysia, #StreetFoods, #Tourist
New Post has been published on http://justforustravel.com/2017/10/14/penang-street-art-and-street-foods/
Penang street art and street foods
2012’Georgetown Penang’s a little more exciting to make the streets of Dec, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic Penang Municipality’i, in the middle of the city liven up the streets with the houses and shops of Chinese descent, was tasked with. Zacharevic developing a project to improve the streets of the rich history of the air, with his work not only by tourists but among the local population in tourist areas has become with their success. spoken
Ernest Zacharevic’s masterpieces, Muntri Street, Weld Quay, Lebuh Keith, Armenian Street, Queen Street Oh, and more through the street, spreading towards the city center from Penang.
Zacharevic’s works are quite impressive; the most widely known Munir street, the “little girl blue – little girl Blue” dressed in Ocean blue pajamas named, the wall is a picture of a little girl. This picture window also two of the house in a natural way, has become part of the picture. The giant picture next to Eastern &Oriental Hotel’s in the following trishala painted with bright colors (bike passenger vehicles), Penang’s street art in a manner that encourages people to explore expects. If your time is limited, or if you do not like to walk, rent one of these vehicles and you can see all the wall paintings, but with a map in your hand and get lost in the streets of Penang’s stay an enjoyable day exploring all the flavors I suggest.
Weld Quay’jetgiller clan (a community living and build houses on piles at the edge of the sea) which is a part of Chew Jetty Zacharevic’s is home to other works. “Kids in a boat – the guys in the boat,” this work is named, the boat was in a blue dress standing with the ocean on one end and at the other end of the boat with a boy who looked at hand holding a little girl in a white dress and we see a shovel.
if you are looking for a piece more interesting and witty, Oh you have to visit two monuments on Queen Street. First, “Boy on a bicycle – the kid on the bike” as its name suggests, the mural of a small child sitting on his head with a helmet on a motorcycle is converted. Eccentric is what makes if official, 3-dimensional. A real motorcycle is hand painted by a child on a wooden door emerged from this work, which, Penang’s jewelry is one of the most popular murals. Secondly, “little boy with Pet Dinosaur – Pets Dinazorlu little kid” is a picture of a dinosaur trying to restrain a little boy who is named. Now in this picture “the kid on the bike” is located on the left side of the picture.
In addition, Zacharevic’s other designs on cannon street, which is one of “reaching up – Reach” in his work on a windowsill or coffee cans coke (periodically changing) there is a picture of a kid who tries to reach. In addition, along the Armenian street “the kid on the bike” a picture reminiscent of “little children on a bicycle – little children on a bicycle” named one of the most popular of the works.
my favorite work, “ten children Swing – the kids on the swings” is his work. Pinned to the wall on the swing until a swing is depicted realistically and really like sallaniyormusca and two small children.
Zacharevic’s after the interest of works, the municipality of Penang local artists and commissioned them asked me to do cartoons with steel bars. Now all over the streets of Penang filled with these artifacts. I had even prepared a map that shows where the work is, even in which. Thanks to this map, you can easily find all works, and you can spice up your type with beautiful photos of Penang.
another good thing to yourself as you stroll the streets of Penang made in Penang’s will give free rein to taste. Malaysia’s, which is one of the cities with the most delicious food in Penang’ta due to the cultural interaction of the people of Indian, Chinese and Malay cuisine formed a wonderful combination.
photo: Mee Goreng
do you like Noodles? Penang’s one of the most popular flavors, mee Goreng, they’re actually more common in the cuisine of Indonesia and Singapore, but in Penang, wandering through the streets with a rumbling stomach’I suggest to try also. Thin yellow Doodle, garlic, onion and meat, chicken, or shrimp sotelenip, is made by mixing. Also according to your taste, egg, cabbage, such as pickles, being enriched with the flavor additions.
photo: char Kway Throw
Throw another Chaek Kway noodles more flavor. Could be called more seafood taste. Usually served with shrimp. Recipe from chef to chef may vary. Large white Chinese noodles, shrimp, bean sprouts, egg, soy sauce, Chile peppers, fried in pork fat and served with chives. Liberally meals that contain pork fat, be unhealthy, but the fact that it is has gained a reputation as delicious as it is unhealthy.
Photo: Hokkien Hae E
if there is another flavor from the bottom of the sea, Hokkien Hae E. This is a fairly simple prepared meal. Basically consists of fried noodles and shrimp. One of the most common street flavors, very popular with travelers around the world in blogs and the credit of this lunch and backpack recommendations can be found. In fact, a soup-based Doodle, prawns, squid, fish cake, served with water spinach to be added. This amazing flavor Malaysia’of China’came and settled.
photo:Nasi Lemak
breakfast, lunch or dinner can be served as a single meal, which, if you have, then Nasi Lemak’. Definitely recommend it as a snack because I can’t necessarily needs to consume the plate that are so big and full with a hungry stomach. The best part of this dish vegetarian, chicken, meat and seafood options. Basically a rice cooked with coconut milk, usually roasted peanuts, hard boiled egg, and served with meat products with fixed items such as sambhal. They might also contain meat as delicious as a vegetarian version, I suggest you try this dish, definitely.
photo: roti canai
roti canai originally a Malaysian of Indian origin is pancakes. Roti canai Malaysia South’s also roti prata, India’s also known as Kerala parotta. Roti means bread in many Asian countries. Also very delicious as a snack, for breakfast and a meal. The dough is usually cooked as a pancake on the hair with a round as open and served with curry sauce and lentils. Cheese or sugary options also available.
photo:Penang Rojak
Rojak is a traditional Asian fruit and vegetable salad. Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia’is too close. Malay rock’or mixture means. Penang Rojak, it’s a flavor that can vary according to the cook again. Overall, Mango, Yesil Apple, pineapple, cucumber, turnip greens, fried tofu, honey, contains items such as peanuts. If you’re looking for a light and healthy meal, this meal is for you.
photo: Cendol
A Southeast Asian traditional Cendol dessert. You can order a glass or on a plate. Coconut water as a base, jelly noodles, Palm sugar, and ice. Penang’s work, in addition to red beans, cream corn, sticky rice. The contrast of the image is quite healthy and does not pose a problem for children with diabetes it is said that.
Penang’s delights your palate with this wonderful street art that you can grace your eyes with the street to put my name on it is enough to spend a day. Before I forget, Penang’s jewelry artifacts by the day due to weather conditions fades and disappears. Useful to go and see a moment ago.
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Kuala Lumpur’s Choice Chinese Cooking
Chomp your way through the Malaysian capital’s storied eateries.
The city blocks are chock-full with heritage eateries and roadside stalls. On a single outing visitors will most likely see satay (top left) licked by flames, the vermillion skin of Peking duck (top right), chopsticks pull at a tangle of beef noodles (bottom left), and billows of hot air coursing out of behemoth bamboo steamers holding a trove of dim sum (bottom right). Photos by: Julian Manning
Plumes of cigarette smoke rise like white ribbons, coiling amidst the clamour of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. What incense is to Tao temples, cigarettes are to these streets. Warm notes of roasted chestnuts are replaced by the beer-soaked breath of elderly men quarrelling in Cantonese as I walk down Petaling Road—the spine of a neighbourhood predominantly made up of Chinese immigrants new and old, and throngs of tourists eager to eat.
Some people insist that Chinatowns are the same everywhere. They are, simply, wrong. From haggling over sweet pork sausages in Bangkok to rolling dice over whisky shots in San Francisco, in my experience, Chinatowns are far from cookie cutter replicas of each other. And if I had to choose one in particular to challenge that ill-informed notion, it would be the wonderfully scruffy streets of KL’s Chinatown.
Cherry-red arches and faux Yeezys on ‘discount’ hardly define the area. Cooks are the core of the community, whether they don a sweat-stained ganji or a double-breasted chef’s jacket, and you will realise as much walking down the streets. The culinary roots of this Chinatown’s inhabitants spread out in a tangle, like that of a banyan tree. Baba-Nyona cuisine, also known as Peranakan cuisine, is a mix of influences from early Chinese immigrants who integrated themselves with the local Malays. They are represented by dishes like beef rendang and nasil emak, the latter a medley of coconut milk rice, sambal, fried anchovies, a boiled egg, with the typical addition of chicken. Later waves of immigrants brought along delicacies from their respective regions: char siu pork and dim sum of the Yue cuisine, porridges of Fujian or Hookien cuisine, and the much-coveted Hainanese or Hunan chicken rice, to name a few. In the bylanes of this bustling quarter, culinary traditions stick to these streets like the patina of a well-used wok.
Here, vermilion-hued ducks hang from hawker stands, glowing like the gauze lanterns that line the streets, outshined only by flames dancing below clay pots filled with golden rice and morsels of chicken, fish, and lap cheong sausages. Each stall and station is manned by a master of their craft. Plastic chairs become portholes to skewers laden with charcoal grilled meat and bowlfuls of fragrant asam laksa, wafting tangy notes of tamarind, the broth waiting to be swiftly slurped up.
Finding a memorable meal in KL’s Chinatown is as easy as promenading down its central streets. A hot jumble of thick hokkien mee noodles have been a staple at Kim Lian Lee for decades, the once-upon-a-time stall now a two-storey tall institution. Just across the street is Koon Kee, another neighbourhood stalwart serving up their popular wan tan mee, char siu pork-topped Cantonese noodles tossed in a sweet black sauce, served with pork and shrimp dumplings. And just down Madras Lane (the street’s name has officially been changed, but locals still use its original title) lies a long line for yong tau foo, tofu typically stuffed with minced pork and fish paste, which has had customers queuing up for over 60 years. The catch? In this hubbub, it is all too easy to miss some of the less central but equally important eateries.
This storied assortment of kopitiams (coffee shops), family restaurants, and outdoor stalls from the halcyon days of Chinese culinary influence in Kuala Lumpur are tucked away from the bustle, a few even mapped outside of the boundaries of Chinatown. So if your palate craves a bit of the past in the present, weave in and out of Chinatown and explore restaurants where the same dishes have been served up for decades, for very good reasons.
1. Sang Kee
Est. 1970s
Address: 5A, Jalan Yap Ah Loy, City Centre
At dinner time Chinatown’s sidewalks (top) turn into a menagerie of meals. Chef Won San (bottom) gets to work on an order of freshwater prawn noodles. Photo by: Julian Manning
Sang har mee, or freshwater prawn noodles, are quite the treat in KL. The best sang har mee places are typically stalls, yet they do not come cheap, the most popular joints serving up the dish from anywhere between RM50-90/Rs835-1,500. Even though the portions are usually enough to fill two people, for those kind of prices you want to be sure you’re indulging in the best sang har mee in the neighbourhood.
Tucked in a discreet alleyway in the shade of pre-World War II buildings, on a little lane where late night courtesans would once congregate, lies Sang Kee. For over four decades this open air kitchen has been serving up some of the best freshwater prawn noodles in KL.
Those interested in a performance can inch up in front of the old man behind the wok and watch him work his wizardry, he doesn’t mind. Two beautifully big freshwater prawns are butterflied and cooked in prawn roe gravy, stirred in with egg, slivers of ginger, and leafy greens. Wong San, the chef, understands his wok like Skywalker understands the force—meaning, the wok hei (wok heat or temperature) is on point.
Once on your plate, plucking a plump piece of prawn out of the open shell is an easy feat. The fresh and supple meat is charged with the gravy, bite into it, and a flash flood of flavour courses out. In KL most versions of sang har mee sport crisp, uncooked yee mee noodles, which are then drenched in the prawn-imbued sauce. A lot of people love ’em this way, but I personally feel this gives the noodles the texture of a wet bird’s nest. Sang Kee’s noodles are cut thick, boiled, and then stir-fried, coated with oodles of scrambled egg, a style that lets the prawn’s flavours permeate every bit of the dish. At Sang Kee, for most folks a single p
ortion is enough for two at RM65/Rs1,085 a plate, but if that’s too steep a price, you can get the dish made with regular prawns for significantly less.
2. Soong Kee Beef Noodles
Est. 1945
Address: 86, Jalan Tun H S Lee, City Centre
The fine people at Soong Kee have been serving up beef noodles since World War II, and the product speaks for itself. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, but don’t worry about waiting around too long. Usually a server will squeeze you in at one of the many large round tables with plenty of neighbours who don’t mind the company. I love this approach because it means you get a good look at what your table-mates are munching on. That being said, newcomers should inaugurate their Soong Kee experience with beef ball soup and beef mince noodles—simple but hearty dishes that will give you a good idea of why the place has stuck around (small bowl of noodles from RM7/Rs120).
3. Sek Yuen
Est.1948
Address: 315, Jalan Pudu, Pudu
Mealtimes beckon travellers to dig into bowlfuls of beef ball soup (bottom left), pluck of piping hot scallop dumplings (middle left), and perhaps chow down on a myriad of meat skewers (top right). For dessert, munch on crunchy ham chim peng (bottom right), delicious doughnuts filled with red bean paste. If the flavour is too earthy for you, just pick up an entire bag of regular doughnuts (top left) or roasted chestnuts (middle right) from one of the city’s many street vendors. Photos by: Julian Manning
Sek Yuen is made up of three separate sections, spread out over adjacent lots a few feet from each other. One is being renovated, another is the original 1948 location, and the last is the crowded AC section built in the 1970s. I wanted to eat in the original section, but by the time I arrived the service was slowing down and everyone was dining in the AC section. When in doubt, follow the locals.
Two noteworthy staples of the restaurant, steam-tofu-and-fish-paste as well as the crab balls, were already sold out by the time I placed my order. So I happily went for the famous roast duck with some stir fried greens. The duck was delicious; the skin extra crispy from being air-dried, yet the meat was juicy with hints of star anise, which paired well with the house sour plum sauce. But what I enjoyed most was the people-watching. A Cantonese rendition of “Happy Birthday” played non-stop on the restaurant’s sound system for the entire 50 minutes I was there. The soundtrack lent extra character to the packed house of local Chinese diners, most of them regulars. To my right, a group of rosy-cheeked businessmen decimated a bottle of 12-year Glenlivet, and were perhaps the most jovial chaps I’ve ever seen. In front of me, a group of aunties were in party mode, laughing the night away with unbridled cackles. Perhaps the most entertaining guest was the worried mother who kept scurrying over to the front door, pulling the curtains aside to check if her sons were outside smoking. The sensory overload hit the spot. You could tell people were comfortable here, like it was a second home—letting loose in unison, reliving old memories while creating new ones.
I learned that when all sections of the restaurant are operational, Sek Yuen is said to employ around 100 people, many of whom have stuck with the restaurant for a very long time, just like the wood fire stoves that still burn in the kitchen (duck from RM30/Rs500).
4. Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam
Est.1956
Address: 1, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
Although it has shifted from Lorong Panggung to the quieter Jalan Balai Polis, Ho Kow Kopitiam remains outrageously popular. Customers are for the most part locals and Asian tourists, unwilling to leave the queue even when the wait extends past an hour. In fact, there is a machine that manages the number system of the queue, albeit with the help of a frazzled young man whose sole job is telling hungry people they’ll have to wait a long time before they get any food. It’s safe to say the gent needs a raise. If you haven’t guessed already, get there early, before they open at 7:30 a.m.—otherwise you’ll be peering through the entrance watching the best dishes get sold out.
Many tables had the champeng (an iced mix of coffee and tea), but I’m a sucker for the hot kopi (coffee) with a bit of kaya toast, airy white toast slathered with coconut egg jam and butter; treats good enough to take my mind off of waiting for an hour on my feet. I then dove into the dim sum, and became rather taken by the fungus and scallop dumplings. The curry mee, whether it is chicken or prawn, was a very popular option as well. When it comes to dessert, the dubiously-named black gluttonous rice soup sells out fast, which devastated the people I was sharing my table with.
They also serve an assortment of kuih for dessert, including my personal favourite, the kuih talam. It is a gelatinous square made up of two layers—one green, one white. They share the same base, a mixture of rice flour, green pea flower, and tapioca flour. The green layer is coloured and flavoured by the juice of pandan leaves, and the white one with coconut milk. For someone like myself, who doesn’t have a big sweet tooth, the savoury punch, balanced by a cool, refreshing finish make this dessert a quick favourite (kaya toast and coffee for RM5.9/Rs100).
5. Kafe Old China
Est. 1920s
Address: 11, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
A relic from the 1920s, the Peranakan cuisine at Old China continues to draw in guests. The ambience seems trapped in another era, as is the food, in the best way possible. Post-modern, emerald green pendant lamps, feng shui facing windows, and old timey portraits make up the decor. A meal here is not complete without the beef rendang, hopefully with some blue peaflower rice. It is also one of the few places to get a decent glass of wine in Chinatown (mains from RM11/Rs190).
6. Cafe Old Market Square
Est. 1928
Address: 2, Medan Pasar, City Centre
Kuala Lumpur skyline (top left) lies adjacent to the low-slung Chinatown neighbourhood (bottom right); A regular customer looks inside the original Sek Yuen restaurant (bottom left); Cooked on charcoal, the traditional clay pots brim with chunks of chicken, slivers of lap cheong (Chinese sausage), and morsels of salted fish (top right). Photos by: Julian Manning (food stall, woman), BusakornPongparnit/Moment/Getty Images (skyline), f11photo/shutterstock (market)
There is something incredibly satisfying about cracking a half boiled egg in two at this café, the sunny yolk framed by a cup of kopi, filled to the point the dark liquid decorates the mug with splash marks, and slabs of kaya toast. Despite a new lick of paint, I could feel the almost 100 years of history welling out of the antique, yellow window shutters lining the three storey facade of the building, the last floor operating as the café’s art gallery.
This place won me over as the perfect spot to read my morning paper, everything from the high-ceilings to the petit bistro tables allowed me to pretend I was in another era—a time when people still talked to each other instead of tapping at their smartphones like starved pigeons pecking at breadcrumbs. Yet, the best time to see this place in its full form is post noon, when the lunch crowd buzzes inside. Droves of locals cluster in front of the nasi lemak stand placed inside the café, hijabs jostling for the next plate assembled by an unsmiling woman with the unflinching demeanour of a person who has got several years of lunchtime rushes under her belt (lunch from RM6.5/Rs110, breakfast from RM1/Rs17).
7. Capital Cafe
Est. 1956
Address: 21, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, City Centre
Beneath the now defunct City Hotel, Capital Cafe is your one-stop satay paradise. The cook coaxes up flames from a bed of charcoal with a bamboo hand fan, using his other hand to rotate fistfuls of beef and chicken skewers liberally brushed with a sticky glaze. The satay is a perfect paradox, so sweet, yet so savoury; the meat soft, but also blistered with a crisp char. This snack pairs wonderfully with hot kopi—perhaps because it cuts the sweetness—served by a couple of uncles brimming with cheeky smiles and good conversation (satay from RM4/Rs70).
8. Yut Kee
Est.1928
Address: 1, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit
Like many of KL’s golden era restaurants, Yut Kee moved just down the road from its original location. Serving Hainanese fare, like mee hoon and egg foo yoong, with a mix of English and Malay influences, YutKee has remained one of the most famous breakfast joints in all of KL for almost 100 years. At breakfast it features an almost even mix of locals and tourists, the former better at getting to the restaurant early to snag their regular tables.
During peak breakfast hours, waiters slap down face-sized slabs of chicken and pork chops, bread crumbed and fried golden brown, sitting in a pool of matching liquid gold gravy, speckled with peas, carrots, and potatoes. You can’t go wrong with either one. If your gut’s got the girth, follow up a chop with some hailam mee, fat noodles tossed with pork and tiny squid.
On weekends guests also get the opportunity to order two specials, the incredible pork roast and the marble cake. A glutton’s advice is to take an entire marble cake away with you. By not eating it there you save room for their seriously generous portions. The cake also lasts up to five days, which gives you about four more days than you’ll actually need. Plus it makes for a perfect souvenir, especially since the Yut Kee branded cake box is so iconic.
One of the many delighted people I gave a slice of cake to back home hit a homerun when they put into words what was so special about the marble cake: “It’s not super fancy, with extra bells and whistles, but it tastes like what cake is supposed to…like something your grandma would make at home.” As he said the last words he reached for another sliver of cake (chicken chop is for RM 10.5/Rs180, a slice of marble cake is for RM1.3/Rs20).
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Kuala Lumpur’s Choice Chinese Cooking
Chomp your way through the Malaysian capital’s storied eateries.
The city blocks are chock-full with heritage eateries and roadside stalls. On a single outing visitors will most likely see satay (top left) licked by flames, the vermillion skin of Peking duck (top right), chopsticks pull at a tangle of beef noodles (bottom left), and billows of hot air coursing out of behemoth bamboo steamers holding a trove of dim sum (bottom right). Photos by: Julian Manning
Plumes of cigarette smoke rise like white ribbons, coiling amidst the clamour of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. What incense is to Tao temples, cigarettes are to these streets. Warm notes of roasted chestnuts are replaced by the beer-soaked breath of elderly men quarrelling in Cantonese as I walk down Petaling Road—the spine of a neighbourhood predominantly made up of Chinese immigrants new and old, and throngs of tourists eager to eat.
Some people insist that Chinatowns are the same everywhere. They are, simply, wrong. From haggling over sweet pork sausages in Bangkok to rolling dice over whisky shots in San Francisco, in my experience, Chinatowns are far from cookie cutter replicas of each other. And if I had to choose one in particular to challenge that ill-informed notion, it would be the wonderfully scruffy streets of KL’s Chinatown.
Cherry-red arches and faux Yeezys on ‘discount’ hardly define the area. Cooks are the core of the community, whether they don a sweat-stained ganji or a double-breasted chef’s jacket, and you will realise as much walking down the streets. The culinary roots of this Chinatown’s inhabitants spread out in a tangle, like that of a banyan tree. Baba-Nyona cuisine, also known as Peranakan cuisine, is a mix of influences from early Chinese immigrants who integrated themselves with the local Malays. They are represented by dishes like beef rendang and nasil emak, the latter a medley of coconut milk rice, sambal, fried anchovies, a boiled egg, with the typical addition of chicken. Later waves of immigrants brought along delicacies from their respective regions: char siu pork and dim sum of the Yue cuisine, porridges of Fujian or Hookien cuisine, and the much-coveted Hainanese or Hunan chicken rice, to name a few. In the bylanes of this bustling quarter, culinary traditions stick to these streets like the patina of a well-used wok.
Here, vermilion-hued ducks hang from hawker stands, glowing like the gauze lanterns that line the streets, outshined only by flames dancing below clay pots filled with golden rice and morsels of chicken, fish, and lap cheong sausages. Each stall and station is manned by a master of their craft. Plastic chairs become portholes to skewers laden with charcoal grilled meat and bowlfuls of fragrant asam laksa, wafting tangy notes of tamarind, the broth waiting to be swiftly slurped up.
Finding a memorable meal in KL’s Chinatown is as easy as promenading down its central streets. A hot jumble of thick hokkien mee noodles have been a staple at Kim Lian Lee for decades, the once-upon-a-time stall now a two-storey tall institution. Just across the street is Koon Kee, another neighbourhood stalwart serving up their popular wan tan mee, char siu pork-topped Cantonese noodles tossed in a sweet black sauce, served with pork and shrimp dumplings. And just down Madras Lane (the street’s name has officially been changed, but locals still use its original title) lies a long line for yong tau foo, tofu typically stuffed with minced pork and fish paste, which has had customers queuing up for over 60 years. The catch? In this hubbub, it is all too easy to miss some of the less central but equally important eateries.
This storied assortment of kopitiams (coffee shops), family restaurants, and outdoor stalls from the halcyon days of Chinese culinary influence in Kuala Lumpur are tucked away from the bustle, a few even mapped outside of the boundaries of Chinatown. So if your palate craves a bit of the past in the present, weave in and out of Chinatown and explore restaurants where the same dishes have been served up for decades, for very good reasons.
1. Sang Kee
Est. 1970s
Address: 5A, Jalan Yap Ah Loy, City Centre
At dinner time Chinatown’s sidewalks (top) turn into a menagerie of meals. Chef Won San (bottom) gets to work on an order of freshwater prawn noodles. Photo by: Julian Manning
Sang har mee, or freshwater prawn noodles, are quite the treat in KL. The best sang har mee places are typically stalls, yet they do not come cheap, the most popular joints serving up the dish from anywhere between RM50-90/Rs835-1,500. Even though the portions are usually enough to fill two people, for those kind of prices you want to be sure you’re indulging in the best sang har mee in the neighbourhood.
Tucked in a discreet alleyway in the shade of pre-World War II buildings, on a little lane where late night courtesans would once congregate, lies Sang Kee. For over four decades this open air kitchen has been serving up some of the best freshwater prawn noodles in KL.
Those interested in a performance can inch up in front of the old man behind the wok and watch him work his wizardry, he doesn’t mind. Two beautifully big freshwater prawns are butterflied and cooked in prawn roe gravy, stirred in with egg, slivers of ginger, and leafy greens. Wong San, the chef, understands his wok like Skywalker understands the force—meaning, the wok hei (wok heat or temperature) is on point.
Once on your plate, plucking a plump piece of prawn out of the open shell is an easy feat. The fresh and supple meat is charged with the gravy, bite into it, and a flash flood of flavour courses out. In KL most versions of sang har mee sport crisp, uncooked yee mee noodles, which are then drenched in the prawn-imbued sauce. A lot of people love ’em this way, but I personally feel this gives the noodles the texture of a wet bird’s nest. Sang Kee’s noodles are cut thick, boiled, and then stir-fried, coated with oodles of scrambled egg, a style that lets the prawn’s flavours permeate every bit of the dish. At Sang Kee, for most folks a single p
ortion is enough for two at RM65/Rs1,085 a plate, but if that’s too steep a price, you can get the dish made with regular prawns for significantly less.
2. Soong Kee Beef Noodles
Est. 1945
Address: 86, Jalan Tun H S Lee, City Centre
The fine people at Soong Kee have been serving up beef noodles since World War II, and the product speaks for itself. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, but don’t worry about waiting around too long. Usually a server will squeeze you in at one of the many large round tables with plenty of neighbours who don’t mind the company. I love this approach because it means you get a good look at what your table-mates are munching on. That being said, newcomers should inaugurate their Soong Kee experience with beef ball soup and beef mince noodles—simple but hearty dishes that will give you a good idea of why the place has stuck around (small bowl of noodles from RM7/Rs120).
3. Sek Yuen
Est.1948
Address: 315, Jalan Pudu, Pudu
Mealtimes beckon travellers to dig into bowlfuls of beef ball soup (bottom left), pluck of piping hot scallop dumplings (middle left), and perhaps chow down on a myriad of meat skewers (top right). For dessert, munch on crunchy ham chim peng (bottom right), delicious doughnuts filled with red bean paste. If the flavour is too earthy for you, just pick up an entire bag of regular doughnuts (top left) or roasted chestnuts (middle right) from one of the city’s many street vendors. Photos by: Julian Manning
Sek Yuen is made up of three separate sections, spread out over adjacent lots a few feet from each other. One is being renovated, another is the original 1948 location, and the last is the crowded AC section built in the 1970s. I wanted to eat in the original section, but by the time I arrived the service was slowing down and everyone was dining in the AC section. When in doubt, follow the locals.
Two noteworthy staples of the restaurant, steam-tofu-and-fish-paste as well as the crab balls, were already sold out by the time I placed my order. So I happily went for the famous roast duck with some stir fried greens. The duck was delicious; the skin extra crispy from being air-dried, yet the meat was juicy with hints of star anise, which paired well with the house sour plum sauce. But what I enjoyed most was the people-watching. A Cantonese rendition of “Happy Birthday” played non-stop on the restaurant’s sound system for the entire 50 minutes I was there. The soundtrack lent extra character to the packed house of local Chinese diners, most of them regulars. To my right, a group of rosy-cheeked businessmen decimated a bottle of 12-year Glenlivet, and were perhaps the most jovial chaps I’ve ever seen. In front of me, a group of aunties were in party mode, laughing the night away with unbridled cackles. Perhaps the most entertaining guest was the worried mother who kept scurrying over to the front door, pulling the curtains aside to check if her sons were outside smoking. The sensory overload hit the spot. You could tell people were comfortable here, like it was a second home—letting loose in unison, reliving old memories while creating new ones.
I learned that when all sections of the restaurant are operational, Sek Yuen is said to employ around 100 people, many of whom have stuck with the restaurant for a very long time, just like the wood fire stoves that still burn in the kitchen (duck from RM30/Rs500).
4. Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam
Est.1956
Address: 1, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
Although it has shifted from Lorong Panggung to the quieter Jalan Balai Polis, Ho Kow Kopitiam remains outrageously popular. Customers are for the most part locals and Asian tourists, unwilling to leave the queue even when the wait extends past an hour. In fact, there is a machine that manages the number system of the queue, albeit with the help of a frazzled young man whose sole job is telling hungry people they’ll have to wait a long time before they get any food. It’s safe to say the gent needs a raise. If you haven’t guessed already, get there early, before they open at 7:30 a.m.—otherwise you’ll be peering through the entrance watching the best dishes get sold out.
Many tables had the champeng (an iced mix of coffee and tea), but I’m a sucker for the hot kopi (coffee) with a bit of kaya toast, airy white toast slathered with coconut egg jam and butter; treats good enough to take my mind off of waiting for an hour on my feet. I then dove into the dim sum, and became rather taken by the fungus and scallop dumplings. The curry mee, whether it is chicken or prawn, was a very popular option as well. When it comes to dessert, the dubiously-named black gluttonous rice soup sells out fast, which devastated the people I was sharing my table with.
They also serve an assortment of kuih for dessert, including my personal favourite, the kuih talam. It is a gelatinous square made up of two layers—one green, one white. They share the same base, a mixture of rice flour, green pea flower, and tapioca flour. The green layer is coloured and flavoured by the juice of pandan leaves, and the white one with coconut milk. For someone like myself, who doesn’t have a big sweet tooth, the savoury punch, balanced by a cool, refreshing finish make this dessert a quick favourite (kaya toast and coffee for RM5.9/Rs100).
5. Kafe Old China
Est. 1920s
Address: 11, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
A relic from the 1920s, the Peranakan cuisine at Old China continues to draw in guests. The ambience seems trapped in another era, as is the food, in the best way possible. Post-modern, emerald green pendant lamps, feng shui facing windows, and old timey portraits make up the decor. A meal here is not complete without the beef rendang, hopefully with some blue peaflower rice. It is also one of the few places to get a decent glass of wine in Chinatown (mains from RM11/Rs190).
6. Cafe Old Market Square
Est. 1928
Address: 2, Medan Pasar, City Centre
Kuala Lumpur skyline (top left) lies adjacent to the low-slung Chinatown neighbourhood (bottom right); A regular customer looks inside the original Sek Yuen restaurant (bottom left); Cooked on charcoal, the traditional clay pots brim with chunks of chicken, slivers of lap cheong (Chinese sausage), and morsels of salted fish (top right). Photos by: Julian Manning (food stall, woman), BusakornPongparnit/Moment/Getty Images (skyline), f11photo/shutterstock (market)
There is something incredibly satisfying about cracking a half boiled egg in two at this café, the sunny yolk framed by a cup of kopi, filled to the point the dark liquid decorates the mug with splash marks, and slabs of kaya toast. Despite a new lick of paint, I could feel the almost 100 years of history welling out of the antique, yellow window shutters lining the three storey facade of the building, the last floor operating as the café’s art gallery.
This place won me over as the perfect spot to read my morning paper, everything from the high-ceilings to the petit bistro tables allowed me to pretend I was in another era—a time when people still talked to each other instead of tapping at their smartphones like starved pigeons pecking at breadcrumbs. Yet, the best time to see this place in its full form is post noon, when the lunch crowd buzzes inside. Droves of locals cluster in front of the nasi lemak stand placed inside the café, hijabs jostling for the next plate assembled by an unsmiling woman with the unflinching demeanour of a person who has got several years of lunchtime rushes under her belt (lunch from RM6.5/Rs110, breakfast from RM1/Rs17).
7. Capital Cafe
Est. 1956
Address: 21, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, City Centre
Beneath the now defunct City Hotel, Capital Cafe is your one-stop satay paradise. The cook coaxes up flames from a bed of charcoal with a bamboo hand fan, using his other hand to rotate fistfuls of beef and chicken skewers liberally brushed with a sticky glaze. The satay is a perfect paradox, so sweet, yet so savoury; the meat soft, but also blistered with a crisp char. This snack pairs wonderfully with hot kopi—perhaps because it cuts the sweetness—served by a couple of uncles brimming with cheeky smiles and good conversation (satay from RM4/Rs70).
8. Yut Kee
Est.1928
Address: 1, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit
Like many of KL’s golden era restaurants, Yut Kee moved just down the road from its original location. Serving Hainanese fare, like mee hoon and egg foo yoong, with a mix of English and Malay influences, YutKee has remained one of the most famous breakfast joints in all of KL for almost 100 years. At breakfast it features an almost even mix of locals and tourists, the former better at getting to the restaurant early to snag their regular tables.
During peak breakfast hours, waiters slap down face-sized slabs of chicken and pork chops, bread crumbed and fried golden brown, sitting in a pool of matching liquid gold gravy, speckled with peas, carrots, and potatoes. You can’t go wrong with either one. If your gut’s got the girth, follow up a chop with some hailam mee, fat noodles tossed with pork and tiny squid.
On weekends guests also get the opportunity to order two specials, the incredible pork roast and the marble cake. A glutton’s advice is to take an entire marble cake away with you. By not eating it there you save room for their seriously generous portions. The cake also lasts up to five days, which gives you about four more days than you’ll actually need. Plus it makes for a perfect souvenir, especially since the Yut Kee branded cake box is so iconic.
One of the many delighted people I gave a slice of cake to back home hit a homerun when they put into words what was so special about the marble cake: “It’s not super fancy, with extra bells and whistles, but it tastes like what cake is supposed to…like something your grandma would make at home.” As he said the last words he reached for another sliver of cake (chicken chop is for RM 10.5/Rs180, a slice of marble cake is for RM1.3/Rs20).
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