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20dollarlolita · 5 months ago

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Things to do when making a lolita garment from a non-egl pattern.

I have this blouse pattern:

[x]

And I have four cotton voile curtains and a pink bedsheet.

I know that I want to use this pattern and this fabric to make a lolita blouse. I want it to be a blouse that I can wear with JSKs and skirts. So, where do we go from there?

Let's find out:

Step 1 is to check our materials, and make sure that existing lolita fashion pieces exist that are like this pattern, and in this material.

Thankfully, lolibrary makes that really easy.

It's so very nice to have a dedicated team of nerds dedicated to documenting and tagging every single piece of our fashion's history.

And then we grab any picture that feels like it's the same construction as the blouse pattern we have.

Links: https://lolibrary.org/items/af-kawaii-vintage-chiffon-blouse https://lolibrary.org/items/lg-tulle-yoke-blouse https://lolibrary.org/items/aatp-michael-blouse-2024 https://lolibrary.org/items/ap-holy-doll-blouse https://lolibrary.org/items/ap-star-dancer-blouse

That's 5 examples, but I already had a pretty good idea what I was doing, so I didn't keep researching. Don't forget that, if you don't really have a ton of hands-on lolita experience, it's hard to over-research. Also, if you do a TON of research, and you cannot find an example of the thing you want to make in a fabric similar to the ones you want to make it from, that might be a sign.

Now, I went into my own closet, and grabbed the 4 blouses that I most often wear with skirts. I know that I want to wear this pattern with skirts, because I don't always feel comfortable in JSKs on blouses that have bibs/front yokes like this. I've made a bib front blouse before, and I had trouble coording it with JSKs.

Blouses: https://lolibrary.org/items/bodyline-honey-parish-blouse-l364 https://lolibrary.org/items/bodyline-l059-blouse-with-jabot https://lolibrary.org/items/btssb-princess-rose-lace-full-of-frills-blouse https://www.amazon.com/TanQiang-Womens-Lolita-Sleeve-Embroidered/dp/B07BFSLFYC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2BE37ENMLLTXG&sprefix=lolita+fashio%2Caps%2C217

George and Ginger have a LOT of pictures of people who have made their blouse. I don't want to post any of them specifically here, but this is an example:

This is a HUGE resource for anyone who wants to make this blouse, because in addition to seeing how it looks in the technical illustration and in the sample, we can see how it actually looks when someone makes it. We can also look at the things that we don't like (for EGL fashion) and what we do like.

For example, in my examples, the front yoke is a place to put as many details as you possibly can. We have multiple layers of lace on the edge, and then detailing such as pintucks on the yoke itself. On these, the yoke is the design feature, so by comparison, it's relatively plain.

I also can see the different ways that people use lining, sheer, and sheer over a lining. I don't see a combination of lining/sheer that I like as much as the Axes Femme blouse in the top-right of my inspo collage. I'm going to make mine like that Axes Femme blouse, instead of how the instructions might recommend.

But the main thing that I'm noticing is that this blouse is LONG. That's just the style it is, but it would mean that I can tuck it into skirts but can't wear it over them. Since one of my favorite things to do is to make skirts with elastic tops for low-energy fun EGL, I don't want a blouse that I have to tuck into the waist. So, I look at this, and I know what I want to do:

Things that I can do without modifying the pattern:

Choose what parts of the garment will be lined/flat lined, and what will stay sheer

Add more detailing to the yoke with applied trim

Swap all of the ruffles for lace, to add more detail

Add a ruffle to the bottom.

And things that I will modify the pattern for:

Making the pattern shorter to match my existing blouses

Re-patterning the yoke to add tucks

In addition, I might add a ruffle or some ruffled trim along the button placket. The reason I say might is that I haven't checked if the shirt has a separate placket to apply to the garment, or if it's a self-made placket. If it's separate, it's a very easy adjustment, and if it's made of self, it's a very difficult adjustment. I sew to have fun, and that doesn't sound like fun to me.

Because I wasted a lot of my life trying to get a degree in something useless am a confident sewer, I can look at those pattern modifications and know that they won't be too difficult for me. If this was my first fitted garment made from a commercial pattern, I might elect to skip the patterning adjustments.

So, how do we make the blouse shorter? If you have a blouse you like it's pretty easy:

Step 1) print your pattern, and cut it out if you have to. Step 2) take your favorite blouse.

We're using this Amazon one because it's the longest:

The first piece that I grabbed said "center back", so we line it up with the center back and make a mark where the bottom ends.

For the side front and side back pieces, we measure the side seam with the armpit of the blouse.

For the front, we have to stack the bib onto the front piece, overlapping by the seam allowance, and measure along the center front.

To save fabric, I'm just chopping the bottom of the pattern off a few inches below the marks. This won't make an even bottom hem, but I can straighten the hem after we're done.

If your fabric is absolutely precious and you cannot waste any, there is a more proper way to do this, but if your fabric is absolutely precious and you can't waste any, you should really be making a mockup first anyway, so you can do what we do here, make the mockup, and then transfer your mockup adjustments back onto the pattern.

This is long so to add tucks you google a tutorial for how to add tucks and then do what that says. I took pictures of how I did it and it's so unholy that I can't dare to post it.

Anyway, stick around for me to actually finish this project for once and give my end results about the lolita-ability of this pattern.

#egl fashion #handmade lolita #diy fashion #20dollarlolita #long post #lolita blouse #george and ginger #*googles spelling*#boudoir blouse

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cherry-pop-elf · 7 months ago

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Hoof Race

Fred Weasley x Reader x George Weasley

Can be read as platonic

I’m going through ALOT because of a dickwad of a piano teacher. So imma just project and vent here. I love piano, but I don’t love the piano teacher. My own personal Umbridge. Bleck. So it’s gonna be sloppily written, projective, just. I’m going through a lot right now. A lot a lot.

Summary: Your first detention with Umbridge. Needless to say, very traumatizing. At least you have a pair of red heads to comfort you. Along with formed an escape plan to get you out of there. With some help

Warnings: Umbridge, scars, blood, depression, anxiety, stress, crying, trauma, Umbridge being Umbridge. Physical Violence against Reader from Umbridge, Humanism(Racism against other species) Surprise Guest Appearance for the Book Lovers from one of our favorite Divination Teachers

“Where is our little lab rat?” Fred huffed, as he was looking around for you. With George trailing behind. Looking in all the directions that Fred wasn’t looking. You had promised to meet them at Hagrid’s to test out a new product to help with calming animals. Something that was more so a Comission’s for Hagrid than anything else. Would be a nice little treat. Tea, fang, and laughter. Just one problem. Where are you?

“Should have never given Harry that map.” George would grumble, as he was getting worried now. Where were you? You aren’t one to break a promise. Especially to miss out on hanging with Hagrid. Who wants to purposely avoid a cozy evening with him? Especially since the twins had hoards of candy to share. If you missed a treat like that, it has to be beyond your control.

“Checked the dorm, checked Myrtle, checked the Requirement’s, checked the green house-“ The twins would finish each others sentences, as they walked. Trying so hard to think of where you could be. That’s when they stopped infront of the Defense Room Doors. They were open, but the office door was closed. They slowly looked to each other, before bolting inside.

“But Miss Umbridge, it hurts-!” They heard you shout, now that they were pressing their ears to the door. “It’s not suppose to feel good, darling. I should have expected such idiocy from someone who found it wise to speak out of turn-“ Umbridge would huff, as her heels could be heard pacing. A mixture of sharp clicks, and your hiccups.

“Mr. Firenze is not a THING-!” You snapped, only for a sharp smack to echo in the room. Made the twins wince, as you hiccuped again. “That beast is indeed that. Why defend that vile creature, when it even identifies itself as a beast-? Hm? Shouldn’t expect much from an idiotic child like yourself.” She lectured on.

“What do we do?” George whispered to Fred. What could they do? She was still a professor after all. Regardless, they had to do something. Anything. SOMETHING. They had to think fast, before you got even more hurt. Or worse. Expelled.

“Twins-?” A voice called itself, making the duo look over. The familiar blonde hair, and clips of hoof steps, made it clear who it was. Their newest teacher, given Umbridge very literally fired their old one. What a god send, as the twins were able to hatch a plan.

“Please please-“ They made praying hand gestures, as they pointed at her door. Making dramatic movements to try and convey they needed a distraction. Not wanting to get detention next. Never thought detention could be worse than anything Snape could offer.

The echo of another slap was what made the ever calm teacher connect the dots. Oh how he dispised such treatment. It was inhuman. That’s saying something from a man who used to live with trantulas the size of buildings. He would quickly motion for the red heads to quickly go hide under the stairs, before he cleared his throat.

“Mistress Umbridge? I need to speak with you about a matter at hand-!” He called, with a hoof stomp for added volume. The duo was quick to run under the stairs, and narrowly miss her gaze. An ever-plastered fake smile was on her lips, as she would walk down the stairs. A twitch to her eye was given, as she was now forced to speak to the centaur.

"Yes, Firenze? Whatever could you need at this late hour?" She asked, while the twins were quick to rush into the classroom. Left quite a sight. There you were, with bloody hands. To bloody to even make out what scars she had to make your write this time. Along with a firm bruise on your cheek, from her had no less. They were enraged, to put it lightly. This was the last time she would ever do this. That was their promise.

They were quick to your side, as you wrapped your arms around them. Your savior. "She just kept insulting him, and it wasn't right. He's a good teacher-" You would sniffle, as George would use his wand to try and clean your hands. He sneered at the words on your skin. Busy with tending to your immediate wounds, as Fred tried to calm you down and explain the plan.

"WAIT WAIT-I UH-I AM JUST A CENATUR! A WITCH LIKE YOURSELF KNOWS MORE THE I!" Firenze shouted, making the twins realize their time was running out. "Just be quiet, and follow our lead-" Fred just said, and you listened. Typical behavior, after all. They were always scheming, and you were happy to get into any mess they offered.

"Well....You are just a centaur. You aren't modern, or cultured, such as myself. I suppose i can remind you how we properly function here." Umbridge would smugly say, as Firenze tried so hard to not roll his eyes. Was worth it, as he was able to watch you be escorted back under the stairs. That firey red hair hidden away. Just in time, because even his calm soul can only take so much.

"Oh dear, Mar's is infront of Saturn. You know what that means, I better return to my classroom-!” She had no idea what that meant, no one did since it was a big lie. Least it sounded good enough to make her scoff. Feeling as though she wasted her time with him. Regardless, she gave a friendly smile. Now walking back towards her office.

The second her back was turned, the blonde stallion quickly motioned for the three of you to hurry to him. Fred and George basically carried you, as they did. Needing to work fast. Was just yanked around like a doll, but there was no choice. The moment Umbridge had gasped, noticing you were gone, you three were on his back.

“Where did-“ But it was faded, as you three were not having a horse ride of your life. Escaping her, this night. Quite the adrenaline rush. Riding the back of your teacher, as he tried to not trip down the stairs. Least you had Fred and George to comfort you. Holding on to the straps on their teachers body, for his supplies, and comforting you.

“Well clean you up, and make sure that this is the last time she ever hurts anyone.” Fred said, with a firm nod. You never thought the twins could look so angry before. Was scary, but also a morbid reassurance. Given Umbridge’s gaslighting was getting to you. Thinking you were a burden, failure, worthless, just horrible. Didn’t even noticed you were starting to cry. It was all too much. The boys would hold you close, and just hold.

“Dreadful woman. Dreadful dreadful just oh so dreadful-“ Firenze would keep on muttering, as he tried to not break an ankle on those ever moving stairs. Full of much spite as anyone else. Suppose that meant the twins had someone on their side, at least.

“You are gonna crash with us tonight.” Fred said to you, as Firenze took that as advice on where to go. Now heading to the Gryffindor common room. “Think of it as a big sleep over. Chilling in the common room’s living space.” George echoed. Childish, but there is joy in childhood. Had you smile in approval.

“Here, allow me to offer some assistance.” Firenze then spoke, as he rummaged in his bag. Still trotting along, as it was just a hallway roam now.

“This should help with your healing and recovery. Sometimes spells can not solve all problems.” And a small bag was offered to you three. Most likely a herbal of some kind. The kind textures were very reassuring. A reminder you weren’t crazy. That she was in the wrong. Not you. Still, made you tremble in fear.

“Gonna be ok. She’s not gonna hurt you anymore.” Fred reassured, with a kiss to your head. Followed by George hugging you tightly. Just helping ground you, as the centaur finally stopped at the painting. She didn’t even ask for the password. As if she wanted to delay much needed rest.

“Rest, if you can. When you join me for our class, tomorrow, you are permitted to not join. You may just relax, and star gaze. That often times relaxes myself.” Firenze offered, as he laid down at the open wall. Allowing you three to get off. He understood you were a victim, and offered sanctuary where he could.

“Thanks…” You sniffled, as to not be rude. He knows, he knows. He gave you a pat on your head, and a smile, before taking his escort away. Leaving you three with your thoughts. The twins mostly thought of how to make whatever happens to Umbridge look like an accident, while you were still shaking from the ordeal. Murder plots can be for another time. You were first.

Escorted to the common room couch, you were as pampered as you could be. Hands properly wrapped, the herbal deal brewed, helping clean up the blood stains, using their latest invention to help clean up your bruise. Just doing what they could, as you sniffled and hiccuped.

Once done, you were soon lying against Fred. With George semi on top of you. As if some kind of pressure therapy. A means to make sure no one could touch you, or sneak up on you. Was nice. What was nicer was the random fellow classmates who walked around. May it to get something to drink, unable to sleep, what have you.

They took notice of you, could quickly grasp it was Umbridge, and let you have your comfort. May it be making sure you three had a blanket, staying extra quiet to not disturb you, or asking if you needed anything. Just some humanity against the darkness.

The comfort of the twins, the easing calm of the tea, and the sound of the ever lit fireplace. It helped you come back to earth again. Just what you needed. Reassurance that you were the victim. Not the other way around. Just deep breaths of fire, cinnamon, and gun powder.

You’ll be ok. You’ll be ok, and the twins promised.

As if they ever would break a promise.

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