#firmenich

[indizombie]

I think for a long time the perfume industry wanted to hide everything that happened before the bottle, because they wanted to keep their secrets, their sources, everything. The consumer of today wants transparency. They want to be sure that no harm is done to the children in Madagascar [for example]. And [they] want to be sure that the ingredients that are in the bottle that [they are] going to pay quite a large sum of money for is ethical. And this is great.

Dominique Roques, head of natural ingredient procurement at Swiss fragrance giant Firmenich

[persolaise]

Sometimes Magic Happens - An Interview With Guerlain's Delphine Jelk

image: Persolaise – I thought about two lovers hanging out in Paris, during the night. I imagined that patchouli is my lover and that I have to tame it, to make it mine. So I added some of the vanilla tincture that we make at Guerlain. We cut vanilla beans into small pieces and we put them in alcohol for 21 days to obtain a tincture. It’s not a sweet vanilla. It’s spicy, a little smoky, woody,…

[adribosch-fan]

20 de junio de 1973:Cómo Montoneros utilizó lo ocurrido en Ezeiza para justificar el asesinato de Rucci

Hace 41 años Juan Perón regresó definitivamente a la Argentina. Hubo una movilización multitudinaria para recibir al líder que había estado en el exilio. El acto se suspendió porque hubo tiros y muertos. El avión que traía al General fue desviado a la Base Aérea de Morón. La tesis del autor sobre la utilización de los hechos de Ezeiza para justificar el “ajusticiamiento” de quien fuera secretario…

[cborrador]

Dsm-firmenich: impulsando el emprendimiento sostenible en Perú

DSM, una empresa global líder en nutrición y biociencia, y Firmenich, uno de los principales fabricantes de sabores y fragancias, han anunciado su fusión para establecer dsm-firmenich. Esta nueva empresa se enfocará en cuatro áreas clave de negocios relacionadas con la salud y la belleza, brindando oportunidades emocionantes en el mundo del emprendimiento. La primera línea de negocio se centrará…

[obsessedbyneon]

Cantina of petrochemical DSM headquarters, Limburg, the Netherlands, 1990.

Scan

[marcelskittels]

FRANK VAN DEN BROEK & ROMAIN BARDET ‹ Tour de France 2024 - Stage 1 › 📸 by Luca Bettini/Sprint Cycling

[primozfroglic]

ROMAIN BARDET Tour de France 2024 - Stage 11 © Chris Auld

[womensworldtour]

Tour de France Femmes - Stage 2

Another sprint stage, a short one this time in the morning of day 2 before this evening's ITT. Only 68km from Dortrecht to Rotterdam, pancake flat, no mountains points—please forgive us if we think these sorts of stages are boring.

If you like windmills or Dutch road infrastructure, there's a lot to see in flat Dutch stages. If you don't care about traffic calming or pedestrian islands or raised crosswalks or trams or continuous sidewalks, then there really wasn't much to watch in this stage until the end.

For the better part of an hour and a half, the most interesting thing to happen were a few minor crashes in the bunch with touches of wheels, or Tashkent riders getting dropped off the back, and no one wants to see that. If you only caught the last 10km (or even 3km, to be honest) we wouldn't blame you.

Fast forward to the end, then, which certainly was exciting, a full bunch sprint after winding through narrow roads and roundabouts on the entrance to Rotterdam. The irony of the Netherlands is that the very bike paths and road furniture that make the country great for average people to bike make it a challenging place to race for the pro peloton. Most of the sprint teams got their riders through a series of turns and across several bridges safely, but crash near the front on one of the biggest bridges took Ruby Roseman-Gannon (Liv-AlUla-Jayco) out of contention and split the group in half.

Team SD Worx-Protime led in the approach with Blanka Vas and Team dsm-firmenich-postNL did the same with Pfeiffer Georgi, and when the sprinters lit their candles, Charlotte Kool came up on the right-hand side, slipped past Marianne Vos (Visma-Lease-a-Bike) and slingshotted around Lorena Wiebes (SD Worx-Protime) to take her second Tour de France Femmes stage in a row!

Kool and Wiebes were a couple bike lengths ahead of Vos, who was in turn a couple bike lengths ahead of Lotta Henttala (EF-Oatly-Cannondale) and Elisa Balsamo (Lidl-Trek). These are the best sprinters in the world right now, and seeing them go head-to-head almost makes the back-to-back sprint stages worth it.

More racing later today in what they are calling Stage 3.

[elcorreografico]

El regreso del terrorista montonero Mario Firmenich: ¿una amenaza a la memoria democrática?

El regreso del terrorista montonero Mario Firmenich: ¿una amenaza a la memoria democrática? Mario Firmenich reaparece en la escena política argentina con un mensaje que reaviva tensiones y revive la polémica sobre Montoneros.

Mario Firmenich reaparece en la escena política argentina con un mensaje que reaviva tensiones y revive la polémica sobre Montoneros. El retorno de Firmenich: una amenaza al pasado reciente Mario Firmenich, exlíder del grupo terrorista Montoneros y una de las figuras más controvertidas de la historia reciente de Argentina, ha vuelto a la palestra pública con un mensaje que ha despertado una…

[dimensionsvelo]

Les vélos du Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift 2024

Le Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift 2024 est aussi une belle occasion pour débusquer quelques nouveautés… Et découvrir les spécificités des machines des championnes bien sûr ! Les paddocks du Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift 2024 et les vélos qu’on y trouve sont à la fois proches de ceux du Tour masculin et différents. On y retrouve ainsi les mêmes marques, les mêmes équipementiers, mais souvent…

[blood-orange-juice]

Not having exact duplicates for some flavours also comes with perks.

If you see a champagne-rhubarb yoghurt and think "wtf, who even comes up with combinations like this", well... they don't.

Takasago's rhubarb base just naturally tastes like that.

Also strawberry is the default flavour everywhere because strawberry scent is the easiest to make (only 2 chemicals required for it to be recognizable, everything else is for extra niceness if you have the budget).

i don't really understand how fruit flavored candies settle on a convention for what the candy should taste like, particularly in regards to tartness.

Every watermelon candy i've ever eaten has had a very strong acid tang to it, while watermelon the fruit has approximately zero tartness. Does nobody say "This doesn't taste like watermelon at all. What are we thinking?" in the process of cooking up a new candy?

On the other hand, real pineapples ARE tart, but a lot of pineapple candies have very little acid. Raspberry flavor is cloying and heavy compared to real raspberry. Lime and grape flavors are doing their own thing a thousand miles away from the fruits they claim to represent

It's the watermelon that gets me though. Who said "Let's load this bitch up with acid for no reason" and got everyone else who would ever make a watermelon candy to agree

[persolaise]

Coty Infiniment review - various perfumers; 2024

My thoughts on the new Infiniment range from Coty

— My first encounter with this much-hyped range was at a launch event in London last year. As far as these shindigs go, it was one of the less easily comprehensible. The speeches ranged from hollow to opaque. There was ‘entertainment’ in the form of perplexing dances that had been devised as interpretations of a few of the perfumes. And the only opportunity to smell the scents themselves was in…

[adribosch-fan]

Día de la memoria: “La guerra de los 70 y la de hoy contra el narco”

Foto archivo- Firmenich,centro Galimberti,derecha Vaca Narvaja,los “Jovenes idealistas” Por: Jorge Tisi Baña De golpe el gobierno se dio cuenta de que está perdiendo la guerra contra el narcotráfico. Y entonces comenzó el debate sobre si las Fuerzas Armadas deben ser empeñadas en esta guerra. La misma palabra guerra parece remitir a la razón de ser de las Fuerzas Armadas. Para combatir al…

[cleolinda]

Honey in perfume, feat. Bee (Zoologist, 2019)

(Picture from the Zoologist website, obviously, and not my magical cottagecore abode)

I am a big fan of (wearing very small amounts of) sweet gourmand fragrances, including sugar and honey notes. “Notes,” of course—nowadays, it’s not the real thing. While I have seen at least one or two indie companies touting actual honey in their honey perfumes, for the most part, it's an aromachemical: phenylacetic acid, derived from beeswax and generally combined with other notes to create an accord. This Fragrantica article tells you everything you could ever want to know about the chemistry of honey perfumes, including:

"Honey absolute" is generally beeswax absolute (technically not even an absolute), which has "a relatively mild scent, reminiscent of hay and tonka beans with waxy and honey undertones."

"Phenylacetic acid itself, in high concentrations, has a sickeningly sweet smell, really reminiscent of honey, with sour, powdery and floral nuances. In its composition, the nuances of tobacco and chocolate are clearly distinguishable – one, without imagination, can also describe them as a strong animalistic urinal smell, vaguely reminiscent of civet."

If you saw barrels with a bee symbol in Breaking Bad: that's the stuff. It is, in fact, used to make meth.

Other notes/aromachemicals used in various honey bases (abridged): vanillin, heliotropin, coumarin (often tonka bean), violet (ionones), hyacinth (phenylacetaldehyde), rose and wax (geranyl acetate), and a note only found in citrus blossom honey: methyl anthranilate.

In the "mellis" base: "benzyl salicylate (balsamic, herbaceous) and eugenol (cloves), [...] patchouli, hydroxycitronellal (lily of the valley), woody notes, spices, and coumarin." This is a foundation used in many of the classic older fragrances like Youth Dew (which my grandmother used to wear), Opium, and L'Air du Temps.

If you're interested in the chemistry, take a look at the article—the parts I'm quoting are only to get across the palette of scent possible in a honey fragrance. Guerlain creative director Sylvaine Delacourte also reels off an exhaustive list of honey notes in perfumery. I'll quote four of them:

Miel de Provence (Firmenich base): "tobacco, aniseed, honey, curry, immortelle, coumarin, hay"

Beeswax Absolute: "quite buttery, very honey-like, broom-like"

Phenyl acetic acid: "honeyed, fruity, dirty, a little blackcurrant"

Tabac Turc Absolut: "honey, animal, leather"

Dance break for further reading:

Fragrantica: Beeswax in Perfumes

Perfume Society: "We love what the nose Christine Nagel has to say about this ingredient: 'Honey has two facets – half devil, half angel. In Ambrée structures, it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. But a small touch in a feminine structure can be extremely sexy…'"

Bois de Jasmin: Sweet Honey Water: Perfume Recipe from the 17th Century

Also at Fragrantica: Best in Show: Honey Fragrances (2020). Now, if I had a money tree, I would probably go straight for samples of Back to Black (Kilian), Scandal (Jean Paul Gaultier), Poison (Dior), Chergui and Miel de Bois (Serge Lutens), L'Instant de Guerlain, and Honey and the Moon (TokyoMilk). The sample I actually ordered was what I felt must be The Honey Scent of All Time:

Bee (Zoologist, 2019)

I had actually never tried a Zoologist fragrance before this; they're famous for animal-themed scents that range from the imaginative to the, uh, challenging. (And the infamous.) Here's the official description:

Like the frantic hustle of the bee through a maze of multi-faceted scents, Zoologist Bee delivers a surreal experience. The rich aroma of honey captivates, while alluring florals, royal jelly, animalic beeswax and regal incense unite to create a buzz, offering excitement, and the sweet rewards of life.

Perfumer: Cristiano Canali Top Notes: Orange, Ginger Syrup, Royal Jelly Accord Heart Notes: Broom, Heliotrope, Mimosa, Orange Flower Base Notes: Benzoin, Labdanum, Musks [synthetic], Sandalwood, Tonka, Vanilla

Now, glance back up at all the background business we just went through: heliotropin, coumarin (tonka), citrus that could include methyl anthranilate. Sylvaine Delacourte invokes mimosa and broom in her full list of notes—

But then: royal jelly apparently has a cheesy, condensed milk scent; she also mentions that beeswax absolute can read as "buttery." For that matter, her mention of a "butyric" honey aromachemical is a bit alarming: it's the "rancid butter, parmesan cheese, and vomit" note that makes Hershey's chocolate so objectionable to people who didn't grow up with it. Like, it's all here if you google know what you're looking at. It's all fun and games until the bee cheese comes out.

And then, labdanum, as you might remember, is the key ingredient in amber accords, where it's often blended with benzoin and vanilla, so we're going to get a warm, resinous, highly projective effect as well. I love amber, but I have to apply it exceptionally sparingly: it's LOUD.

What I'm getting at is, once you look more closely at the notes and the chemistry: I am not surprised that some wearers report a claustrophobic feeling like their head is stuck in a beehive. If your skin chemistry emphasizes the floral notes, it's said that you'll feel like you're right there soaring with the bees among the wildflowers; if you amp the cheesy, waxy, or A M B E R notes, well. There's nothing I can do to save you now. Remember Tabac Turc Absolut ("honey, animal, leather") up there? Or that phenylacetic resemblance to civet? Zoologist is famous for (surprise!) their intensely animalic fragrances. We don’t know exactly what Cristiano Canali used, but we sure do know what’s possible. You are IN that hive with the bees. Hope you brought some pollen as a hostess gift.

I always apply, like, three entire molecules of perfume when I first try something, so I was fine. On me, Bee has a creamy-yet-powdery "texture"—not dairy, not "old lady" powder; something almost tactile. The honey itself is primarily what I smell, and it’s "high" in my nose; I think I would have preferred a deeper note, like the dark clover honey I use in my tea, but it's nice. I don't specifically smell any ginger or florals—maybe a little citrus. Nothing cheesy or objectionable, barely waxy, just a general sense of hive. But Bee does seem—alive. It seems to move in the air around my wrist.

And it persists for hours, despite how little I wore (three different occasions), especially since my skin does amplify amber notes. If you find yourself in trouble, it is not going to wash off. DO NOT SPRAY BEE ALL OVER YOURSELF. DO NOT. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR CHOICES. I really enjoy honey fragrances and this one in particular, but—you have been warned.

Addendum: It was extra fun to edit this out on the deck under a cherry laurel with about 7-8 bumblebees circling overhead. They were chill.

[marcelskittels]

[primozfroglic]

ROMAIN BARDET Tour de France 2024 - Stage 11 © Chris Auld