#fashion writer

[francispeaks]

The Decline of Luxury

Luxury fashion has long been synonymous with timeless elegance, superior craftsmanship, and exclusivity. However, in recent years, a growing concern has arisen in the industry regarding the declining quality of luxury brands. Many fashion enthusiasts and critics argue that the pursuit of profit and the fast-paced nature of the fashion industry have led to a compromise in the quality of these prestigious brands.

Bernard Arnault and the Changing Landscape of Luxury

Bernard Arnault, the influential businessman and chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has played a pivotal role in reshaping the luxury fashion landscape. He has transformed LVMH into a global powerhouse, with a portfolio of more than 70 iconic brands including Louis Vuitton, Moet & Chandon, and Hennessy.

While his influence has undoubtedly been substantial, it has not always been beneficial for the industry as a whole. For the last two decades, Arnault has been at the forefront of big-name luxury brands, often with the goal of expanding their reach and profitability. However, this expansion has come at a cost.

In the 90s, luxury fashion felt untouchable. The prices were high ( not as high as in today’s age ), but they were justified by the exquisite craftsmanship and exclusivity that these brands offered. Luxury fashion was an aspirational status symbol for those who could afford it, and it wasn’t just about that status, it was about the craftsmanship of the Haute-Couture, the eye to detail in every piece, the piece of garments that was made for you and lasted for generations to come.

Arnault's vision, on the other hand, aimed to make luxury more accessible to a wider audience. We all know what that means– if brands want to appeal to the global audience, then they need to think quickly, craft it quickly, and sell it quickly. This shift in strategy has led to the popularization of luxury goods, but it has also resulted in a saturation of the market and a decline in quality.

The Erosion of Quality

One of the most significant consequences of the luxury fashion industry's rapid expansion and mass-market accessibility has been the erosion of quality. In the pursuit of profit and market share, many luxury brands have cut corners in production, using cheaper materials and less skilled labor. This cost-cutting approach has compromised the quality and craftsmanship that were once the hallmark of luxury fashion.

Luxury brands that were once renowned for their attention to detail and commitment to excellence have fallen victim to the desire for higher profit margins. The result is that products are now more costly and of inferior quality compared to their 80s and 90s counterparts. In an era where consumers are increasingly seeking value and authenticity, this decline in quality raises concerns about the long-term sustainability of luxury brands.

The Impact on Consumers

As luxury fashion brands chase higher revenues and broader customer bases, they risk alienating their loyal, long-standing customers who expect nothing less than the best. This shift in focus from quality to quantity has begun to manifest itself in the mass market as well, where discerning customers are beginning to notice the diminishing quality of luxury goods.

For example, luxury handbags that were once known for their durability and timeless design may now show signs of wear and tear more quickly, ( I am looking at you Louis Vitton ). Garments from renowned fashion houses may lack the same attention to detail in their stitching and finishes ( Versace isn’t the same anymore, I said what we are all thinking ). This decline in quality not only affects the brand's reputation but also creates a sense of disillusionment among consumers who once held these brands in high esteem.

The Future of Luxury Fashion

The decline in quality within the luxury fashion industry is a cause for concern, as it threatens the very essence of what luxury represents. While Bernard Arnault's vision of accessibility and market expansion may have contributed to this issue ( as every Billionaire with a capitalistic dream does ), the industry as a whole must reevaluate its priorities.

To restore the integrity of luxury fashion, brands need to refocus on craftsmanship, quality, and exclusivity. It's essential for luxury brands to strike a balance between making their products more accessible without compromising on the standards that made them iconic in the first place. By delivering on the promise of superior quality, luxury brands can regain the trust of their discerning customer base and ensure the long-term sustainability of their legacy.

I want to see seems well done by a seamstress who still values Haute-Couture, I want brands to value traditional craftmanship and use it in their collection and get inspired by it for decades, I want Designers to not fall into the temptation of money, I want fashion to slow down and know that the detail matters, because you will be remembered by it.

However, is not just the brands that are to blame, is the clients too, clients that don’t dare to question quality any longer or get curious about how their garments and pieces are constructed, there is no sense to the word "quality" any longer because all we wear and accept to wear is polyester or polyamide, a jacket with non-straight seems, or a seem that breaks after a week, heels that break as you walk, bags that get destroyed because you used it.

We need to question Lvmh brands and other Luxury Fashion brands on how are they so expensive and how they make their clothing, just like we question Fast Fashion Brands on how their clothes are so cheap.

[theseasicksailorblog]

Indie Sleaze: 5 item shopping list

My non-negotiable 5 clothing items to live your indie sleaze truth, written as 2000s/2010s fashion historian.

Ballet Flats

Worn by school-teachers and it girls alike, ballet flats have always been a staple in fashion history, especially in the late 2000s and 2010s. For a first time wearer a simple black flat is a safe bet as it can be paired with anything, but if you want to sleaze it up, opt for a metallic or glitter variation. Something to note about indie sleaze fashion is that the more extra it feels, the better it looks, so don't hold back on cool, funky, flats. These can be found in thrift stores, department stores, and all over Amazon.

Metallic Fabric

Since the dawn of rave/party culture, glamorous lamé fabrics have used for just about every article of clothing possible. Cheaper spandex alternatives rose to popularity as The Cobra Snake era partying merged into mainstream. Shiny red leggings paired with a black cropped tank was peak casual 2010s sleaze attire. A great place to find styles like this is Los Angeles Apparel aka American Apparels re-brand. Though they no longer sell the fun colored disco pants and shorts, the lamé collection offers a variety of shiny colorful items with that trustworthy AA quality. Other places to look are party supply stores, poshmark/depop/ebay, rave shops, and of course Amazon.

Ultra Feminine Dresses

One of the most underrated pioneers of indie sleaze fashion is model and t.v. personality Alexa Chung. While Alexa is often grouped with the Twee (shopping list coming soon) and hipster aesthetics of the 2010s her ability to blend soft girlish dresses with last nights makeup allows for an uber sleazy effect. Mini shifts, polka dotted a-lines, and vintage baby-dolls all work as long as you pair them with unkempt hair and grungy tights to keep the edge, bonus points if your dress has a peter pan collar or your tights have rips. You can find these practically anywhere but start at your local thrift store as they usually have large selections of outdated dresses that were popular during this time period. Alternatively look at department stores, vintage/antique markets, and you guessed it Amazon.

Ringer Tee's and Shorts

Before athleisure was an over-saturated mess of "flare leggings" and Lululemon we took inspiration from student athletes everywhere with the iconic ringer tee's and ringer shorts. Getting their name from the contrasting ring of fabric outlining the seams of the article, ringer style pieces were seen everywhere and worn with everything. Both such versatile basics that could be kept casual or dressed up that you might see a ringer tee with a skirt, or ringer shorts with stockings and a blouse. Los Angeles Apparel has great options for both the shirts and the shorts, places like Walmart and Target often carry ringer shorts, and Forever 21 with great ringer tees, and as always Amazon.

Stockings/Tights

It doesn't matter if they're black, white, multicolored, fish-netted, or opaque, stockings always find a way to elevate a basic look and is often what takes an outfit from mainstream to indie sleaze. Don't worry about buying a super nice quality pair as stockings look best with ripping seams and enormous holes. But don't tear them with a fork like those tiktok girls did in 2020, it screams try hard as a real indie sleaze girl would rip them via dancing, curb sitting, and drunken stumbling. Just like the dresses, you can find tights anywhere. However I don't recommend secondhand as they are technically an undergarment and it's hard to ensure the level of cleanliness.

Spacehey saw it first https://spacehey.com/theseasicksailor

[themusecoterie]

demystifying the met gala 2024 theme

‘Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion’, the theme announced by the Mets Museum of Art’s Costume Institute for the 2024’s Met Gala, invites attendees to embark on a journey through fashion history – an odyssey to its timeless beauty.

Unlike previous themes, this year's concept isn't to be taken literally, though hints of fantasy, magic mirrors, and princesses may grace the red carpet. In contrast to past galas, such as 2019’s ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’ which called for theatrical and playful attire, as defined in Susan Sontag’s essay, or 2017’s ‘Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between’, summoning unconventional silhouettes and unexpected elements inspired by the Japanese designer, this upcoming gala beckons guests to indulge in fashions intricate past.

Around 250 items carefully curated from the Institutes collection, including rare archival pieces, will be on display. The heart of the ‘Sleeping Beauties’ exhibition refers to the 400 years of fashion craftsmanship, structured around 50 intricately created pieces, each holding commemorative significance, too fragile to ever be worn again. Work by icons such as Yves Saint Laurent, Elsa Schiaparelli, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen contribute to this showcase.

This exhibition gives a more contemplative experience. Innovative technology and sensory stimulation will be employed, allowing guests to be emotionally immersed in this exclusive journey. The 3 main zones, Land, Sea and Sky, will structure the exhibition, exploring changing attitudes to the natural world through creative use of natural materials in design.

As we anticipate the looks on the red carpet of fashions biggest night out, designers are encouraged to peruse the work of their predecessors, reimagining historical masterpieces in a contemporary light. This not only showcases their talent but pays homage to the art that has paved the way for creatives of this age.

#themusecoterie wonders how designers and celebrities will collaborate and interpret this ingenious theme. We expect to see meticulous looks from designers’ archives, aligning into the fast-growing trend of sustainability and pre-loved fashion. Garments as enriched and redefined with technology are also anticipated, creating a synergy of heritage and innovation.

Perhaps the misinterpretation of the title will inspire magical creativity, with reference to the zones adorned with flora, fauna and weather.

[byatruegirlfriend]

my favourite (street style) looks from Shanghai Fashion Week

[r4bbit-teeth]

r4bbit.teeth thesis 05.01.2023

the beauty in the grotesque. rotting gore taking the place of what once was full of innocence and life. __ in death, there is something that is lost… more than just a life and a soul; why is a body disconnected from the being it once was--- seen as an object that once housed life.

“Rabbit Teeth” is a concept collection that tells a narrative through four characters: the rabbit, the deer, the lamb, and the flowers. 

The rabbit represents the tainted innocence, the loss of naivety, fixated on the horrors of our own ephemerality.

The deer represents the dread of trying to accept, or even just acknowledge the reality of our delicate bodies and fragile existence. 

The lamb represents purity, childlike innocence, not yet exposed to the truth of our own mortality, with the wool over their eyes. 

The flowers are an omen, beautifully inviting, but often deceiving in their given meanings, the red spider lily symbolizes final goodbyes, death, and abandonment. 

__

The strong focus on materiality, through the use of hand knitting, needle-felting, and crochet, brings forward an illustrative quality to the pieces. 

The needle-felting specifically is used to mimic realistic textures of the animals depicted, capturing a certain tactility.

 The lace fabric in the collection hold a story of their own, being old tablecloths that belonged to my grandmothers.  

The imagery and the narrative tied to it can be uncomfortable, disturbing even, though it is contradicted by the physical comfort of the hand knits; the soft warmth, the devotion put into completing every stitch balancing the harsh realities of the story being told through them.

[ghostl0re]

when i found out that "fashion writer" is an actual job and not just an impossible dream from my YA self is when something switched in my life.

[roguerebz]

Obsession with Individuality (And The Lack Thereof)

Everybody wants to be an individual, but often to a consumable point. If one is too weird and too niche, they are discarded and shamed.

Back in 2019, the pandemic was taking it's toll on everyone's life while the "alt" trend took over. People obsessed with Deftones, Nirvana and grunge/metal bands. People wanted to be cool and niche and feel a sense of pride for being quirky and not like everybody else.

That sense of superiority from being cool hasn't died down since, but the trends at the time did due to them becoming oversaturated. Because people felt normal and couldn't be different from everybody else, they moved on.

While the recent trends show obvious support for being different and having a sense of style that shows personality and individuality, not everyone receives the actual unconventional styles well.

A woman named Kyan Kri was showing her outfits in a New York City subway on Tik Tok. Twitter users shamed her on the platform, stating she didn't have a sense of style and that she looked "disgusting" simply because she didn't fit the expectations of what a "fit" is to absolutely everybody.

While people love outcasts: nobody can truly be weird or wear an unconventional outfit unless everyone can see themselves in it or idealize it.

Style is something that is forever changing and expanding within each individual, which is why those who are invested in fashion need to have an open mind to receive ideas. Of course, not all ideas are great, but there is never a reason to shame someone for the choices they make with fashion.

People must realize that discarding things simply because you dislike them is not the proper way to consume fashion. One can dislike things, but turning your head and shaming them for existing will never lead to understanding or growth (or the individualism they yearn for.)

[dbguidebook]

ICONS // ROBERTS, MICHAEL. #Societythings

[ibelieveinshoes]

COUTURE SAVED THE GIRL

Hi friends! Happy Monday! I hope everyone’s had a great weekend. I most certainly did. My friends and I celebrated my 32nd birthday at one of my favorite restaurants. The theme of the night was “cunty.” I screen-shotted the Urban Dictionary definition just incase you needed clarification on “cunty.” So I’m turning 32 tomorrow and I wrote this whole essay about my depression and the one thing…

[missfortune-xyz]

why i can't wear ballet flats.

If you had told my 15-year-old self that ballet flats would return in the early 2020s, I don’t think I would have believed you. I adored the Valentino Tango pumps and had tried styling ballet flats with my school uniform on multiple occasions throughout my secondary school career (ah, the 2010s), unfortunately to no avail. In my mind, the ballet flat was too ill-fitting for me , and was an item that only my mum (or maybe Alexa Chung) could wear and actually look good in.

Skip to 2022, and as a shock twist (although is it really a shock?) the ballet flat is back. Or should I say the ballet pump? The 2022 revival of this classic item expands to formats outside of the flat slip-on that we’re all familiar with – heels, tabis, flatforms, and even sporty styles have hit the market and have skyrocketed the shoe back to its former status.

A very valid argument could be made that the ballet flat never really went out of style, that the ballet flat is simply a classic item that’s wearable regardless of the current it-style. I’m inclined to agree, but we can all see that the trend cycle was not particularly kind to this shoe over the past 5 years.

So why is the ballet shoe back? To no one’s surprise, TikTok currently dominates the trend cycle. Catalysed by the F/W 2022 Miu Miu collection, as well as other brands such as Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard, an updated version of hyperfeminine clothing aesthetics are at the forefront of the modern trend cycle.

I can’t say that I don’t love this trend. Personally, I’m a big fan of rounded toe shoes as opposed to the square and pointy styles that have been popular in recent years. Moreover, I believe that this reincarnation of the ballet shoe brings variations to the shoe that, at least in my mind, were sorely needed. As I mentioned briefly earlier in this post, I grew up seeing my mum reach for a classic ballet shoe (mostly in a patent black, or a funky leopard print) for easy casualwear, and whilst I also tried wearing this style myself, it never really stuck.

The return of the ballet shoe begged me to think – why did this not work for me?

The classic ballet flats, in my opinion, hold two major issues:

The silhouette that the ballet flat creates, whilst simple, can often feel unbalanced.

They’re deeply uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time.

I am a flatform shoe enjoyer, and so the minimal silhouette of the ballet shoe brings an unsettling lack of balance when used in tandem with the rest of my clothing. For some, the original silhouette works harmoniously with the rest of their look – think the ‘French Girl’ style, for example. For those of us with a clumsier disposition, or need more support in a shoe, the ballet flat may also seem impractical to wear on a daily basis. Thus, a classic ballet shoe just does not fit with the rest of my wardrobe or my lifestyle, and there is no purpose in investing in a trend that simply does not suit.

I don't think these feeling is uncommon. The resurfacing of the ballet shoe has not been without its scepticism.

Having said all of this, I still, like many others, enjoy the aesthetics and vibe of the ballet shoe, and this design revival brings the perfect opportunity to finish what my younger self started. As much as the styles put out by Miu Miu and Simone Rocha are something out of a dream, I’m a university student and at ~£600+ there’s simply no room in my life for that price point right now unless anyone wants to sponsor me ;) . I’ve tried similar silhouettes through the ‘A Warrior’s Heart’ style by KOI footwear, but found that the material simply did not withstand my constant lack of physical coordination and scuffed far too quickly.

Even amongst the heeled variety, Nodaleto and Carel’s mary janes still sit outside of my price bracket. It felt as if this revival, despite all its improvements and positives, still remained inaccessible to me. The lower price point provided styles that would not work aesthetically or practically in the long-term, and the higher price point would not work financially. Even second-hand sales proved too expensive. For a while, it felt as if I would have to sit this one out, despite evaluating that the right shoe would be able to remain in my closet rotation beyond its trend time.

Now, I want to make it clear that I will not be providing a list of potential buys. It’s important to me that I’m avoiding the endorsement of unnecessary purchase, and so instead of showing my ‘buy list’, I’ll be walking you through the process I undertook to complete my mission. As a 19-year-old in the process of transitioning from the wardrobe of my 'teenage self' to my 'young adult self', it’s important to me that I buy items that will fit in my wardrobe long term as opposed to trend items. For this very same reason, I’ll be avoiding fast fashion shops when selecting a shoe, as my aim is to find something more timeless that will last longer (plus, it’s better for the environment). I don’t buy shoes very often, so I’m more focused on investing in pieces that will last longer as much as I am able to afford to do so.

As the overcomplicater I am, I decided to formulate a 3 stage plan to find the perfect addition to my shoe collection.

the plan:

Step 1 – Trial

I’ve mentioned my mum prior in this article and how growing up I saw her wear ballet flats often. My first port of call was to message her and see if she has a pair she no longer uses. I wanted to affirm that the traditional version of the style was not right for me, and as opposed to buying it, it would be much better to borrow and try it out first.

I was in luck. (it’s a good thing we’re the same size)

Step 2 – Analysis

At the end of my trial, I decided to take a step back and analyse what aspects of the shoe worked, and what didn’t. I compared the flats I borrowed, to any shoes I previously owned that share similar characteristics, as well as my ideal styles to identify what I liked and what I didn’t. From there, I could formulate exactly what I’m looking for.

Step 3 – The Hunt.

Now, in all honesty, this step is what I want to focus on the least. I could give a list of my ‘top 50 ballet shoe variants’, but that’s contrary to what I actually want to do with this post. My intent here is not to provide product placement or outright promote overconsumption, but rather to offer commiseration and problem-solving to those of you who may be in the same boat as I am. To those of you who aren’t, I hope this provided a little entertainment at least.

For anyone who does want to know about the shoes I ended up choosing – I spent a lot of time scrolling through WConcept and eventually found a cute pair that fit the criteria (and my budget) well. I’ll be putting aside some money from Christmas and my next payday so that hopefully I’ll be able to buy in time for the new year.

If anyone wants an update once I've got them - let me know!

resolution:

As of the moment, I haven't managed to order the shoes. I'm pretty broke, so for now they'll stay at the top of my bookmarks list for another time. It's not entirely a negative thing though.

It's pretty cold in the UK right now, so I'm mostly sticking to warmer boots that I can layer thick socks under to keep warm - it's not like these shoes are going to help keep me warm. Waiting thus means that I'll get a cute new shoe just in time for the spring which, in my opinion, is perfect timing considering the style and aesthetic of the shoes anyway.

All in all, I'm not too bothered by waiting. It's not exactly as if I have a choice, and this process was an exercise in informed buying as much as it was a chance to find the perfect shoes.

In that case, this was a job well done.

[lotannawrites]

ZUMIEZ “that year”.

I passed the legendary skate shop Zumiez the other night with my old friend from secondary school. What a quinky-dink!

The store brought back so much memories of my secondary school days in Lagos, especially how my set boys rushed to the Zumiez site Black Friday during the fall term that year. Not even to get the skateboards, but to grab clothes from their partners. Come to think of it, there was no social event night "soshee" you wouldn’t see someone wearing a product from the speciality retail store.

It shocks me how lucrative the streetwear industry is. And how this store made Lagos kids rush to their site that year.

IT’S ALL STRATEGY!

These guys had motion that year, they pushed themselves with the sickest marketing pulls at the time, and made a huge audience for themselves. Whether the quality was whack or not, people would still cop! Especially with their partnerships with popular names like RipnDip, Odd Future, Santa Cruz, and all the brands from that year. These guys used so many tactics to push their products at that time, especially when wearing their partnered brands was considered as cool.

In all and all, they were the top dogs.

Why are they no longer part of the top dogs?

Zumiez has failed to grow their strategy. It baffles me that with all the experience and network they have, they have not relit that spark they had. I think the root of the issue lies in management and structure. There is nothing new to talk about when it comes to them; even the site is the same as it was years ago. With the psychological warfare we call 'advertising,' it is critical for businesses to get with the system. Apart from trends changing and time passing, there are so many ways to keep yourself well-known. I think Zumiez did not keep up with these trends appropriately, and that is why I consider them a brand from that year.

Every opportunity ought to be seized to captivate and inspire audiences, driving success in an ever-changing world.

-Lotanna Uzomah

[francispeaks]

The Femme Fatale Aesthetic & Lifestyle

The Femme Fatale style, known for its seductive allure and dangerous charm, has captivated audiences for decades. Originating in the early 20th century, this enigmatic archetype emerged as a powerful symbol of female empowerment and rebellion against societal norms.

Drawing inspiration from film noir and pulp fiction novels, the Femme Fatale embodied a complex blend of sensuality and cunning intelligence. With her alluring beauty, she navigated a world dominated by men, using her charm as a weapon to manipulate and control those around her.

The origins of the Femme Fatale can be traced back to ancient mythology, where femme fatales such as Cleopatra and Delilah wielded their attractiveness to entice and deceive powerful men. These mythical figures laid the foundation for the archetype's evolution throughout history.

In the early 20th century, the rise of silent films provided a platform for actresses to embody these captivating characters. Icons like Theda Bara and Greta Garbo showcased their magnetic presence on screen, captivating audiences with their smoky eyes, crimson lips, and mysterious personas.

The Femme Fatale fashion emphasizes form-fitting garments that accentuate the female silhouette. Dresses in rich fabrics like satin or velvet, with plunging necklines or high slits, reveal just enough skin to tantalize. The color palette includes deep hues like black and burgundy, evoking mystery and sensuality. Accessories such as bold jewelry pieces and sheer stockings paired with heels enhance the look. Makeup focuses on captivating eyes with smoky eyeshadow and dark red lipstick for sensuality.

As time progressed, the Femme Fatale style evolved alongside cultural shifts in society. It became a symbol of women reclaiming their power and challenging traditional gender roles. From Marlene Dietrich's provocative performances to modern interpretations by artists like Lana Del Rey, the allure of the Femme Fatale continues to captivate our imagination.

Today, the Femme Fatale remains an enduring figure in popular culture—a reminder that strength and vulnerability can coexist within one captivating persona. Whether seen as a cautionary tale or an embodiment of feminine power, the legacy of the Femme Fatale style endures as a testament to the timeless appeal of mystery and allure.

[anodetomotion]

Thoughts and feelings 10/12/2023

[turtletoria]

i wanted to try drawing older Mabel and Dipper !

[elegancehighfashion]

[hollyrawd]

Zuhair Murad Fall 2020 Couture Review

Is this Venus or are we dreaming? Zuhair Murad’s Fall 2020 Couture Show sets the scene with an single voice-over that speaks to the many waxing moods of womanhood, by gifting them dreams draped in feathers, dreamy chiffon and sparkling iconography.  Horoscopes, astrology and biblical references are embellished onto rich plum velvet, as fabric drips it’s way down heavenly bodies, sending the…