#fashion research help

[traditonalclothingresearch]

Databases

Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Bloomsbury Publishing. https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/

Fashion Studies Online. Ethnographic Video Online Vols. I & II: Foundational Films. https://video-alexanderstreet-com.eu1.proxy.openathens.net/channel/ethnographic-video-online-foundational-films

Database: Bloomsbury Fashion Central.

This database is a number of collection within one database al centering around fashion and dress. The contents include "interconnected major reference works, exclusive articles, scholarly books, case studies, biographies, lesson plans, bibliographic guides, textbooks, video content, runway and backstage photos from fashion shows, and tens of thousands of images from museums " (Bloomsbury Fashion Central). This will be the best database to look into historical embroidery, it should give us articles, historical accounts, and a variety of images to draw from to further our research and knowledge. This database is helpful to the auidence of researchers as fashion is so wide and broad yet often lacking in other databases, who focus on the sciences more than the arts or this particular aspect of history. This also allows for recreators to better achieve the true historical look. 

There is a basic and advanced search function. There are additional limits, and facet searching available on this database as well. The database covers ancient to modern and is updated regularly.  The content is primarily index and abstracted, but has an option to find the full resource within your local library if they offer it. Peer reviewed articles are available. There are mechanisms to sort by format, date, relevance, and further sorting related to fashion such as place of origin or techniques used. There is a function to save, share, and print articles/ media found. There is also a way to form an account. 

Database: Fashion Studies Online

"A core resource for anthropology courses of all levels, this two-volume collection contains classic and contemporary ethnographies, documentaries and shorts from every continent, providing teachers visual support to introduce and contextualize hundreds of cultural groups and practices around the world." (Alexander Street). For those that want a video format for your research this will be a helpful database for you as it contains a multitude of videos on different ethnic cultures which will give insight into a researcher's goal. For the costumer this means getting the background context of the culture or in some instances seeing the technique be done.

There are only 26 videos within their current collection for ethnographies, but feature a filtering feature none the less. The greater resource has a large a larger search function that one may be able to use to find something more specific, such as searching Traditional fashion and filtering to anthropology to get a number of news coverings and documentaries. The database as a whole covers from about 1960 to now and is regularly updated. There are mechanisms to sort by format, date, and relevance.

[inkskinned]

the thing is there's like, a point of oversaturation for everything, and it's why so many things get dropped after a few minutes. and we act like millennials or gen z kids "have short attention spans" but... that's not quite it. it's more like - we did like it. you just ruined it.

capitalism sees product A having moderate success, and then everything has to come out with their "own version" of product A (which is often exactly the same). and they dump extreme amounts of money and environmental waste into each horrible simulacrum they trot out each season.

now it's not just tiktokkers making videos; it's that instagram and even fucking tumblr both think you want live feeds and video-first programming. and it helps them, because videos are easier to sneak native ads into. the books coming out all have to have 78 buzzwords in them for SEO, or otherwise they don't get published. they are making a live-action remake of moana. i haven't googled it, but there's probably another marvel or starwars something coming out, no matter when you're reading this post.

and we are like "hi, this clone of project A completely misses the point of the original. it is soulless and colorless and miserable." and the company nods and says "yes totally. here is a different clone, but special." and we look at clone 2 and we say "nope, this one is still flat and bad, y'all" and they're like "no, totally, we hear you," and then they make another clone but this time it's, like, a joyless prequel. and by the time they've successfully rolled out "clone 89", the market is incredibly oversaturated, and the consumer is blamed because the company isn't turning a profit.

and like - take even something digital like the tumblr "live streaming" function i just mentioned. that has to take up server space and some amount of carbon footprint; just so this brokenass blue hellsite can roll out a feature that literally none of its userbase actually wants. the thing that's the kicker here: even something that doesn't have a physical production plant still impacts the environment.

and it all just feels like it's rolling out of control because like, you watch companies pour hundreds of thousands of dollars into a remake of a remake of something nobody wants anymore and you're like, not able to afford eggs anymore. and you tell the company that really what you want is a good story about survival and they say "okay so you mean a YA white protagonist has some kind of 'spicy' love triangle" and you're like - hey man i think you're misunderstanding the point of storytelling but they've already printed 76 versions of "city of blood and magic" and "queen of diamond rule" and spent literally millions of dollars on the movie "Candy Crush Killer: Coming to Eat You".

it's like being stuck in a room with a clown that keeps telling the same joke over and over but it's worse every time. and that would be fine but he keeps fucking charging you 6.99. and you keep being like "no, i know it made me laugh the first time, but that's because it was different and new" and the clown is just aggressively sitting there saying "well! plenty of people like my jokes! the reason you're bored of this is because maybe there's something wrong with you!"

[technically-human]

I loved your pic of the boys dancing so much. Any chance of getting to see them dancing in different styles together?

Tango, odissi and minuet!

ko-fi

[letters-to-lgbt-kids]

My dear lgbt+ kids, 

When it comes to cold weather, the main rule (regardless of gender or presentation) is: when in doubt, choose warmth and safety over style. 

Some basics: 

Layering is your best friend: Start with moisture-wicking base layers to keep sweat off your skin. Follow with insulating layers (like fleece or wool), and finish with a weather-resistant outer layer (like a puffer jacket or waterproof coat) to protect against wind, snow or rain.

Keep your sensitive areas warm: Make sure your hands, feet, and head are covered! Gloves, warm socks and a beanie can prevent cold-related discomfort or injuries. 

Waterproof: If you're facing snow or rain, make sure your clothes are waterproof. Wet clothes lose their insulating ability, so staying dry is a big part of staying warm! 

Reflective Gear: If you’re out in the dark or in poor visibility conditions, consider adding reflective elements to your outfit for safety.

People can react differently to temperatures. A temperature that feels super cold to you could feel comfortable to someone else, depending on what you’re used to (and some other factors). As a very basic rule, we can say: Gloves, beanies, and other cold-weather accessories typically become necessary when temperatures drop below 40°F (4°C). In more severe cold (below 32°F (0°C)), it’s even more important to wear them to protect yourself from frostbite and maintain body warmth. But it goes even in milder weather: if you feel uncomfortable or if it’s windy or damp, it’s a good idea to add these items for extra comfort.

With all that being said: Clothes are not just for safety and temperature control, they also help you express yourself - and that doesn’t suddenly change in winter. 

Dressing for cold weather doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your personal look. Whether you want to present more feminine, more masculine, or more androgynous, here are some tips to help you layer up and feel like yourself: 

(Note that these are suggestions, not hard rules. Style is highly subjective as everyone has different tastes, preferences, body types, fashion inspirations, budgets, cultural influences etc. I could suggest something here that you’d feel super uncomfortable in - if so, that’s not a sign you’re “doing it wrong”! Cherry-pick what feels right and ignore the rest) 

If You Want to Present More Feminine

Base Layers: If you want to wear skirts or dresses in winter, start with thermal leggings or tights! These can be nicely paired with cozy, long-sleeved tops or lightweight thermal shirts. (But also keep in mind that plenty of women, cis or trans, do not wear dresses all the time! Nothing wrong with choosing jeans!) 

Outer Layers: There are plenty of styles to choose from that have a feminine touch, such as a belted trench coat, a pea coat, or a long wool coat. Shawls are also excellent for adding a touch of style while keeping you warm! 

Footwear: Knee-high or thigh-high boots lined with faux fur or fleece can keep your legs warm and add a polished look to your outfit. Ankle boots with thicker socks are also a good alternative.

Accessories: Scarves, gloves, and beanies can be both practical and stylish. Knit hats or earmuffs can add a soft, cozy vibe to your look.

Style Tip: Go for a mix of fabrics like wool, faux fur, and knitwear to create texture and warmth.

If You Want to Present More Masculine: 

- Base Layers: Start with thermal undershirts or moisture-wicking base layers. Consider long underwear for added insulation beneath your pants.

- Outer Layers: There’s plenty of outerwear to choose from, like a puffer jacket, parka, or wool overcoat! (Faux) Leather or bomber jackets layered over sweaters can also add a masculine edge while keeping you warm.

- Footwear: You might want to opt for sturdy boots, such as work boots, Chelsea boots, or combat boots. Thicker socks can keep your feet warm.

- Accessories: Don’t skip out on scarves, beanies, or gloves for being “too feminine”. They can actually be great for adding a more rugged feel to your outfit! You just gotta find a color and style that fits you well. 

Style Tip: Focus on layering in a way that adds structure. Sweaters, button-ups, and jackets work great together for a sharp, put-together look. Play with dark, neutral tones and thick fabrics like wool or denim for extra warmth and style.

If You Want to Present Androgynous

- Base Layers: Neutral-colored thermal tops or turtlenecks can serve as great foundational pieces. You may want to pair these with straight-leg or loose-fitting pants that allow room for layering underneath.

- Outer Layers: Oversized coats, puffer jackets, or long trench coats can work well for an androgynous look. Try layering with oversized sweaters or fleece pullovers for extra warmth.

- Footwear: You could go for sneakers, lace-up boots, or loafers paired with warm, thick socks. But really, any pair of shoes can work for an unisex outfit. 

- Accessories: Neutral-colored scarves, simple beanies, and fingerless gloves can add to an androgynous look. Minimalist accessories like oversized scarves or gender-neutral caps are both practical and stylish.

Style Tip: Aim for a balanced mix of structured and relaxed pieces. Try loose layers on top with more fitted pants, or vice versa, to create an effortless, warm, and non-gendered appearance.

With all my love, 

Your Tumblr Dad 

[yridenergyridenergy]

Does anybody regconize what clothing brands did the members wear at today stage greeting? Seem like kyo is wearing Madara 🤔

Sorry for the delay. I'm not sure but it seemed like there were two "movie premieres" that day. Kyo was definitely wearing the latest beige jumpsuit from Madara Ningen at one of the events.

The jean jacket that Kyo wore was from Zara and actually comes with the "Free Popcorn" patch. The blue "kid drawing" (officialy "knit elephant") T-shirt underneath is also from Zara.

I think that Kyo alternated between a black cap with Chinese words and one from DRESSEDUNDRESSED, a brand with whom he collaborated for a sukekiyo show years ago and the Rock and Read 087 photoshoot.

Kaoru's fedora hat was from The H.W. Dog & Co. His pants seem to be crinkled freight nylon cargo pants from "Entire Studios".

Die, I could bet that some ârt of his outfit was from Kiryuyrik as always hah. Maybe Shinya's came from h.Naoto?

Toshiya's shirt is too "common" to find a specific brand.

[peonycats]

Can you draw the historical character Majapahit Empire?

bruh i waited so long to answer this ask indonesia became canon

This is less of an attempt to depict Indonesia as he actually was during the Majapahit Era and more like a modern historical reenactment, thus explaining the historically inaccurate short hair lmao

BONUS:

[lavenoon]

Presented with context and no further comment except "👉👈" @naffeclipse

*Aster's still not a girl (he/she) og detective au by sunnys-aesthetic!

[triglycercule]

small leisurely moments like these mean more than expected

ok hi triglycergang. it's AUGUST?!?!?! ugh,,,, anyways here's my like once a month art piece because i am a slow ass artist. the mtt are supposed to be chatting at a park during sunset!!! also new au just dropped

you wonder why killer dust and horror are wearing those DISGUSTING outfits??? you wonder where killer's soul is??? well it's all gone in this au which is called uhhh.

jk fashion au... wooooo!!

first things first to know: this au is NOT my idea. it was originally someone on twitter's idea to dress sans aus up in nanchatte seifuku but i think their account got deleted/banned. and i cant find the account because it was a japanese account and probably has some random username. so just remember that this isn't my idea but i guess my own twist on it. i really wish i could find the og creator,,,,

second thing to know: what the fuck nanchatte seifuku/jk (just kidding) fashion even is. here's the link to read for yourself: https://aesthetics.fandom.com/wiki/Nanchatte_Seifuku. yeah that's jk fashion. i really loved this au when i found it originally because i myself dress up in jk and also i just really love soft fluffy things like this. this au isn't gonna be angsty or particularly elaborate or anything i just wanted cute things and women in my murder time trio. also this isn't gyaru btw

third thing: uhh my inspirations for this??? well my main one that i really wanna focus on is that feeling of happy sentimental melancholy. you know like after you finish a really fun day hanging out with your friends and youre on the drive home and look back at how fun the day was? that's what i wanna encapsulate :3 also i think that the day to day school life is really cute and sweet and i wanna make more designs for the other aus so my trio can have more people to hang out with

well uhhh i think that's it?? mayhaps i shall begin drafting up other designs for the other aus. i wanna make little mini comics for this too like 4koma because i love those short yet sweet comics!!! should i tag this? i think i should tag this perchance. also extra mtt notes/full designs below became i love these three they're my daughters

[irish-dress-history]

Have you got any good resources for men’s clothing in Ireland (or even Scotland) during about the 1400’s-1600’s?

I have been trying to find anything that can give me better insight so I can recreate the clothing but so far I’m mostly seeing cheap rubbish costumes that are very clearly the generic “medieval” style that everyone goes to when they want to convey a vibe but don’t feel like doing historic accuracy.

Not to say there’s anything wrong with that but I’d like to really impress people in future gatherings that pertain to this time period

This is a tough one, unfortunately. The 2 best books for this have been out of print for decades and now sell second hand for $100+ USD. Your best bet for getting a hold of them is interlibrary loan. Neither of these books contains sewing patterns or construction information. They are:

Old Irish and Highland Dress by H. F. McClintock, 1st ed. 1943, 2nd ed 1950

Dress in Ireland by Mairead Dunlevy, 1st ed 1989, 2nd ed. 1999

The one book I know of that's still in print is Before the Kilt: How the Irish and Scots Dressed in the 16th Century by Gerald A. John Kelly. I haven't actually read it. I've heard it has some issues with the images being low resolution (probably because it was printed by a small press), but it does contain good primary source research. The only place I know of that sells legitimate sewing patterns is Reconstructing History. I haven't actually bought any, but I have heard that their sewing directions are not the easiest to follow, and some people have issues with the size grading. Their patterns for the wool garments are all based off of extant period garments. Based on more recent research, I don't their léine patterns are completely correct, but they are at least better than some of the léine patterns out there. (Avoid anyone who tells you to put drawstrings in the tops of the sleeves or that a man's léine should be hip-length.)

Websites of reenactors and historical costumers who have put serious research into their outfits:

https://saffroncloth.wordpress.com/

https://www.wildeirishe.com/

http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/06/16th-century-irish-dress_19.html

https://www.thelastprince.ie/

http://www.claiomh.ie/

A couple of decent videos on 16th-early 17th c Irish dress:

Traditional Irish Clothing in the Gaelic Period

Depicting and Describing Dress in Early Modern Ireland by Dr. Katherine Bond

If you're planning on doing the 16th c, definitely check out Susan Flavin's research. It has great information on what types of textiles, dyes, and trims that were available in 16th c. Ireland. You can download a pdf of her dissertation here.

I'm sure you already know that 1400s-1600s is a long time period for dress history. Irish dress changed a lot during that period. If your goal is to make a single, well-researched outfit, I would recommend picking a period that's somewhere 1500s-1600. There are a lot fewer primary sources (extant garments, art, documents, etc) for 1400s Ireland. On the other hand if you enjoy making educated guesses, 1400s might be more fun. Just check out this neat 15th c. outfit from Strade Abbey, County Mayo:

If you have any more specific questions, feel free to ask. I can't guarantee I have answers, but I do have a bunch of random Irish-dress-history related articles for this period on my computer.

[iknowwhereyousleepatnight]

hmmm should i go through all of the dramas and musicals and other dn medias to compare light's wardrobes there as well as from the anime and manga or is that too much work

[galarfiend]

kiddos

[holdharmonysacred]

why are we having fanmerch manufacturing discourse now

[3cosmicfrogs]

look i love,,, using historical inspiration for character design and going buck wild with it.

when do we think i need to start citing my sources

[maxwellamus]

Why is it so hard to research traditional clothes for literally any region but the white ones i am legit going through it WHERE DO I FIND PICTURES. I NEED PICTURES

[harmonaesthetic]

Violet’s makeup

This post is going to be in-depth, so bare with me for its length. 

Looking through set photos and within the show, Violet seems to wear a few cosmetic products. 

Below is a closeup of Violet in Rubber Man for easier reference I’ve made.  

The makeup artist for season 1 was Eryn Krueger Mekash. I did some digging and it turns out she has spoken about her techniques/products!

In an interview with The Hollywood Reporter from February 10, 2011 in relation to lips:

“Lip stains are long-lasting and not drying or sticky — we can’t have hair sticking to lips during the dance numbers,” says Eryn Krueger Mekash, head of makeup on Glee, who uses Tarte Lip Stain in Envy on Dianna Agron and Lea Michele. 

With Makeup411 (a now defunct makeup magazine site), Eryn Krueger Mekash did a Beauty Breakdown on season 1 of Glee, here are the snippets worth noting:

[Lea Michele as Rachel Berry] Blush Stila Convertible Color in Petunia on apples of cheeks […] Mascara CoverGirl LashBlast Volume Blasting Mascara in black on top lashes only […] Lips Korres Lip Butter in Pomegranate or Smith’s Rosebud Salve

In another interview she brought up the foundation she used on Hollywood for the men to retain the “no makeup, it’s natural” look: 

I love using Tarte BB Treatment cream on men. It gives a touch of color and has a mattifying agent and SPF. […] Polished looks start with foundation that is buffed in and minimal powder. Those cameras can still see every brush stroke so that is still a big priority.

With Allure magazine, she said her personal all-time favorite products were:

"I have always loved Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat for lots of highlighting—undereyes, nasal labial folds. Also a great moisturizer and all around cure-all is Egyptian Magic. It's great for chapped lips, dry skin, rashes. I am ridiculous about my own makeup. I slap it on and blend it later—I have no time to do proper makeup on myself. My staples are Colorscience Sunforgettable Mineral Powder in Perfectly Clear, Benefit's Bad Gal Lash mascara, Senna Totally Transforming Concealer, Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover Foundation for special occasions, Laura Mercier Eyebrow Pencil in Blonde, and Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes in Purple (6L), Taupe (24L), and Black. I don't like touching myself up and I want everything to last a really long time."

However in this interview with Style Caster:

EKM: We use Koh Gen Do Cleansing Spa Water Cloths, Moisture Foundation and Oriental Plants Skin Lotion Spray quite a bit. We also love Makeup Forever HDfoundation Matte Velvet Foundation and Acqua Cremes for staying power.

We use Colorscience Sunforgettable Powders which are waterproof […] 

Makeup Forever Mist and Fix, Stila Convertible colors (the cream blushes stay better), primers help to keep everything in place […]

Healthy looking skin is an important part of the youthful look – and not too much powder, not heavy foundation.

Now back to Violet’s makeup and what I believe she used and did.

I do not believe Eryn Krueger Mekash used much mascara on Taissa. If she did, it looks to be more on the top lashes (just like Michele’s on Glee). What’s visible to me though is the very subtle eyeliner around her eyes. There is no wing apparent. 

Violet’s lips do have a luster as you can see in the image above, but in the below image it’s more matte. I am torn between Tarte LipSurgence Natural Lip Tint and Stila Convertible Colors.

All-in-all Violet’s makeup is not heavy or flashy; it gives a natural, youthful impression. Clearly the makeup does vary with each episode but not a lot. Considering she is 15-years-old and juggling so much chaos, it makes sense for her character.

Below is another up close image, from Piggy Piggy before Violet takes the pills. 

[mariocki]

Inspector Morley, Late of Scotland Yard, Investigates: The Case of the Scarlet Letters (1.3, WGN-TV, 1952)

"Mr. Mullins, I have in my possession sixty-eight letters, none of which has begun to outlive its usefulness. I'm quite prepared to admit that blackmail is risky, but then murder has its disadvantages too - that is why I gave up murder."