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28 July 2018 Nothing like waking up to the sound of a weedwhacker at 7:00am in Venice-who would expect that?! Definitely not the way we were planning on starting our morning, considering we were planning on sleeping in until 9:00am. Our Airbnb is on the second floor of a building right next to what the Venetian’s call a ‘Campo,’ meaning field, where the residents once farmed crops. Since Venice is built on a swampy lagoon, all of the areas that are not canals are covered with pavers now, and someone felt it would be okay to weed whack the grass between them in the early hours of the day. Oh well, we were up early and ready to start our day as we made our way to Campo S. Stefano to begin our free two and a half hour tour of the southern portion of Venice. Our tour guide, Rubina, is a master’s student at the University of Venice and volunteers her time to inform tourists of the city she goes to school in. She was a wealth of knowledge as she shared with us information you wouldn’t find in a Rick Steve’s book or online. Our tour consisted of thirteen tourists, including us, as we made our way through the mazes of canals and calles (Italian for streets) of Venice. We first learned the layout of the land and learned Venice is broken up into six distinct districts; Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo, Dorsoduro, San Marco, and Castello. Separated by the Canal Grande, which winds thru them, the islands of Venice resemble an actual fish from an aerial view. Others describe it as two hands meeting and clasping where the Canal Grande winds thru. Rubina explained to us there are actually 118 islands that make up Venice, each with there own church (some with more than one church) since there are 120 churches in Venice. The 428 bridges connect the islands together to form Venice. As Rubina explained the rich history, I was amazed to learn that when they were cultivating the land, the Italians brought cut trees from the Swiss Alps and stabbed them into the sand of the Venetian Lagoon to stabilize the ground. Placed 60cm apart, there are thousands to millions of trees beneath our feet from hundreds of years ago. To put into perspective, it is like filling a cup with sand and pushing hundreds of toothpicks into the sand. Since there is no oxygen underneath the ground, the trees have since fossilized and cemented into the ground, causing the ground to be stable. The only con to this situation is that Venice is sinking even though the ground is stable. Back in the 1950s, they measured Venice was sinking into the lagoon 2mm every 10 years. Today, Venice is sinking at a staggering rate of 2mm A YEAR. They expect Venice to be underwater by 2070, so we’re fortunate to be here to experience this unique city. We explored a lot of unique churches along the way as well as residential areas you wouldn’t find tourists in, so we truly felt we were getting an authentic experience. To finish up the tour, we stopped for gelato along the Grande Canal for my first of many scoops today. Haha. I got banana and it wasn’t artificial at all; I could see and taste the tiny black seeds inside a banana and it was so creamy-I was in heaven! For lunch, we stopped in Campo Santa Margherita to eat at Pier Dickens-where I ordered four cheese spaghetti with four various authentic Italian cheese drizzled on top with bread to compliment. We then stopped (again) for gelato and I got a mix of lemon and coconut-very refreshing and my favorite so far. We then walked to Fondaco De Tedeschi, an upscale mall right along the Grande Canal near the Rialto Bridge. We climbed to the top (for free) and got some AWESOME views of the city from above in its steeple-lined skyline covered in red clay roofs. We then made our way thru the narrow passages and off the beaten path to find Igor, a gondolier wearing a navy blue and white striped shirt. Rubina taught us if a gondolier is wearing a red striped shirt, they are very exuberant and in a great mood, if they are wearing a navy blue striped shirt, they are calm, serene, and peaceful, and if they are wearing a black striped shirt, they are hungover from the night before and not in the mood to be offering gondola rides. Haha. Thankfully, Igor was navy blue and not black. We hopped in his gondola named ‘Aurora,’ which was covered in gold seahorses. The city has a law which requires all gondoliers to charge the same rate for the same amount of time, so no bartering as we paid the standard €80 for thirty minutes. A little steep, but a worthwhile experience. As Igor belted songs and whistled tunes down the serene canals, it was definitely worth-while. He was born and raised here in Venice and has been a gondolier for twenty-six years. Departing Igor’s shiny, black gondola, we walked towards Campo S. Stefano for dinner before our evening tour. We settled for Wine Bar Tiemo, well off the beaten path. Rubina told us earlier, if you want authentic food, go down an alleyway you feel you would get murdered in and you’re in the right place. Haha. We found it! The owners spoke English and truly cared about their customers. They explained in great detail their main dishes and I settled for a Spritz and Spaghetti with pepper and cheese. A Spritz is a very famous Venetian drink consisting of orange, olives, prosecco, and soda water. Very refreshing and the pasta was on point! Finally, we finished our evening going on another tour with Rubina’s friend, Anna, who took Shaina, Zach, and I with seven other tourists through Saint Marco Square and the Bascilica di San Marco. A tourist trap for sure, but there is a lot of history she explained to us about the separation of the Western Roman Empire and the Eastern Roman Empire with Venice being smack-dab in the middle. While she was speaking in the pigeon-infested square, a pigeon flew and excreted itself down onto our group. I felt so bad, but a young Indian man WEARING GLASSES happened to be in the wrong place at a very wrong time. The pigeon’s poop hit at the perfect angle in-between the man’s glass lenses and hit him smack dab in his eye. What are the chances? We immediately flushed his eye out in the middle of the square and finished up our tour. Third time is the charm, but we finished the night getting gelato (again). It is so cheap-only €2.50 for two healing scoops of it! Opted for white chocolate and chocolate chip tonight to finished off another jam-packed day. Off to Florence and Pisa tomorrow!
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