#costumeinterpretation

[tilleymarrencostume-blog]

Female Fashion within the Regency Era   {PART ONE}

The regency era was a time in history that women wore very little clothing, the clothing they wore was sheer and they wore very little undergarments compared to previous years of women’s clothing. Clothing from this period followed a very similar theme with usually a high waist below the bust a long skirt and a low neck line showing a moderate or more amount of cleavage. 

Colour scheme of the dresses were usually muted colours whites or off whites with a very plain decorative pattern on, the less decorative dresses would’ve been more aimed towards the lowers classes where as the more embellished and detailed dresses were for the higher classes which could afford the more expensive fabric and more embroidery put onto their dresses. 

Patterns that were popular were; stripes and spots as they added a small amount of detail.  I think the colours below would be best suited for women’s fashion in the regency era. As they would’ve used natural dyes to colour their fabrics which meant they wouldn’t have got as strong colours as people can now with modern technology and chemical dyes. The colour schemes from that period in time would also have been very neutral and earthy as that was what they had access to at the time.

Many of the darker colours which were more pigmented and stronger colours would be used in evening wear (half dress or full dress) this is because it was more expensive to manufacture than the lighter colours.

Most day dresses (undress and half dress) were in the colour scheme above.

Sleeve lengths varied between dresses with the time, early on in the regency period the fashion was to have long sleeves and then they developed and got looser and developed into puff sleeves. 

Within women’s fashion in the regency period there were three variations of clothing;  Undress which was the casual simplistic look of the time which was usually worn from morning till early afternoon, half dress which was between casual and dressy and then the last was full dress which was the formal dressed up outfits that they wore usually for balls and parties. 

[katrinesthimble]

It is done! Finally, the tutu is done and handed in. There’s a few decoration details I wish I’d had time to do, but the most important parts are done and I am very happy with how it turned out. Exhausted, but happy. Now some rest before the next project starts on Monday!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4CtcLEFwz8/?igshid=eige3j1l6ipd

[phoebedoescostume]

the degree show is now open to the public! - go and see all the all the incredible costumes that have been designed and made this year #costumedesign #costumeinterpretation #theimportanceofbeingearnest #oscarwilde #theatredesign #williammorris #paintedcostumes #1890s #ladybracknell #wimbledoncollegeofarts #wcadegreeshow #ualsummershows #degreeshow #degreeproject #guache #watercolour #phoebedoescostume (at Wimbledon College of Arts)

[iamfireiam-death]

@plymouthcollegeofart's Costume students are making outfits for an exhibition of Frances Drewe's wedding trousseau for @nationaltrust at @castledrogont next month, opening on Friday 13th of May! Come and see our work if you can ☺️ #costume #costumeproduction #costumedesign #costumeinterpretation #victorianfashion #victoriangown #weddingtrousseau #1890s #francesdrewe #castle #castledrogo #nationaltrust #exhibition #plymouth #exeter #dartmoor #plymouthcollegeofart (at Plymouth College of Art - PCA)

[tilleymarrencostume-blog]

Similarities between the 1920s Flappers and the 1970s Punks

I was looking at this due to looking at the 1920s for one of my projects within uni, i wanted to draw more into my research by relating it to something which is more easily understood and more recent. whilst looking at the jazz culture and the flappers i began to notice similarities between the flappers and punks. 

Jazz was heavily influenced by the blues and originated from New Orleans it soon spread to the rest of America. Dances like the Charleston were very popular particularly for flappers in the 1920s. Flappers were young women who broke all the normal rules and conventions of the normal stay at home women by drinking, smoking, voting cutting their hair and taking risks. Flappers were very much the punks of the 1920s, in which they pushed the female boundaries they bound their chest to modify their full body shape, they cut their hair to change how they were viewed by society. 

Both the punks and the flappers were annoyed at always being ignored and overlooked by the older generations. There were social and political issues which lead to the on the punks in the 1970s. Punk bands like the sex pistols and the clash were very popular and influential in the emergence of punk the bands were very anti-establishment and tried to shock the older generations. Punk was also considered a very working-class subculture which portrayed the anger and frustrations of the people. Punk fashion was very unique and out there with their modifications, they modified to norm to create their own group in fashion much like the flappers did in the 1920s. The flappers did exactly the same thing by binding their breasts to create a flat androgynous look which was to rebel against the older generations ideals and expectations. They also cut their hair to match the androgynous look which the punks did in the 70s. 

BBC (2014) The roaring twenties [online] http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/history/mwh/usa/1920srev2.shtml [Accessed on 10th October 2017]

JazzStandards (2005) Jazz History: The Standards (1920s) [online] http://www.jazzstandards.com/history/history-2.htm [Accessed on October 10th 2017]

Rosenberg, J. (2017) What is the Charleston dance? [online] https://www.thoughtco.com/the-charleston-dance-1779257 [Accessed on October 10th 2017]

Rosenberg, J. (2017) Flapper in the Roaring Twenties [online] https://www.thoughtco.com/flappers-in-the-roaring-twenties-1779240 [Accessed on October 10th 2017]

Encyclopedia of Anti-revionism On-line and Eriksen, N. (1980) Popular Culture and Revolutionary Theory: Understanding Punk Rock [online] https://www.marxists.org/history/erol/ncm-6/punk.htm [Accessed on October 11th 2017]

Rosenberg, J. (2017) Vietnam, Watergate, Iran and the 1970s [online] https://www.thoughtco.com/1970s-timeline-1779954 [Accessed on October 11th 2017]

Millard, P. (2013) Punks and Flappers and What They Can Teach Us [online] https://www.huffingtonpost.com/pauline-millard/punks-and-flappers-have-m_b_3268567.html [Accessed on October 11th 2017]

[tilleymarrencostume-blog]

Personal Inspiration Post { PART TWO - Fantasy Gowns and Costumes }

In this series of posts i will be talking about my inspirations and my interests within the costume industry and the surrounding closely linked industries. This post will be about the fantasy side of the costume industry and people within that interest and inspire me. 

FIREFLY PATH

Firefly Path is a company from the USA which create fantasy costumes are garments for all occasions, many of which are used for weddings. They use a multitude of different fabrics and materials to create their costumes and accessories.

This is one of my favourite costumes that they have created, it is because of the use of materials and the way the gown is fitted with the iridescent sequins that cover the body minimally and give a ethereal look to the costume.

One reason i am particularly fond of this company is because they show the process of how they make the garment. They also show the designs they do before hand including swatches of the fabrics they will use and how it will look on the model.

When they show the designs as well as the finished garment it really interests me as i like to see how they have translated the design into the costume.

They are also inspired by oriental-ism and history within their designs and costumes. They create pieces with a twist on history and of other costumes they have be inspired by.  The types of fabrics they use vary from, velvet, lace, tulle, satin as well as many others. 

[tilleymarrencostume-blog]

Personal Inspiration Post { PART ONE - Lingerie (2) }

In this series of posts i will be talking about my inspirations and my interests within the costume industry and the surrounding closely linked industries.  This post will be about the lingerie industry and people within the industry that interest and inspire me.

YANA SINNER - SINNER COUTURE

Sinner couture is a lot different to the other lingerie shops i like, they use a much different colour palette compared to the others. They use darker colours within their pieces.

Yana Sinner is the designer for all the pieces in Sinner Couture, she is influenced by historical architecture of the baroque and rococo period which she has brought in the design of the corset above. 

the baroque and rococo period was heavily embellished and extravagant and has the Rocaille which is shown in the pattern on the corset. the Rocaille is the common motif used in the rococo period. 

DOTTIES DELIGHTS

Dotties delights is another US brand which makes lingerie, their work is usually vintage inspired as they use fabric which reflect the time. 

The first of these for example is very similar to sugar lace lingerie as they use tulle and mesh in very similar ways much like they did in the 1950s in the Hollywood movies to portray glamorous women in their night dress.

Their other lingerie styles are very vintage inspired with lots of mesh, lace and what looks like stretchy polyester. I am very interested in the silhouette of the gowns and lingerie. 

[tilleymarrencostume-blog]

Starting a new module

Tomorrow i start a new module in my costume interpretation with design course. starting a new cut and construction module in which i have to make a medieval costume. Looking forward to the opportunity to make something for an actual client for the first time. i just hope that i become more prepared for this time making a costume. 

Fourteenth-century English Princess and Lady-in-Waiting by Tom Tierney

[tilleymarrencostume-blog]

MR SELFRIDGE COSTUMES

Within this i will be looking at the different costumes within Mr Selfridge. I chose this as it is one of my favourite TV series’s for costume as it spans the early 1900s up until the late 1920s. It shows the development throughout the time period as shows how women's roles changed and how that affected the fashion of that time. 

I am very interested in how different characters wear different clothing and how they style them to show the different characteristics. This can be seen within the way the characters above wear their suits, As Mr Selfridge wears his very smartly and also with the jacket open which i feel shows that he is approachable as compared to Mr Grove on the left who has his jacket very tightly fastened which makes him look very reserved and insecure. 

Mrs Rose Selfridge and Mr Harry Selfridge watching Anna Pavlova performing her performance of the dying swan. The clothing within this scene is some of the most elegant dresses within this series. It shows a variation of the different styles of the most wealthy of guests. 

Miss Ellen Love (pictured on the left) was the spirit of Selfridges in the first series of Mr Selfridge. Due to this she always wore the latest fashion and the most expensive things as she was the face of selfridges which meant she was a walking advertisement for the store. Miss Ellen Love’s outfits are my favourite throughout of the whole of the first series.  The images of Anna Pavlova (pictured to the right) are shown of her performing the dying swan ballet performance.

There are clear classes shown within the Selfridges. Agnes and George Towler in the first series are shown to be a lower class more of a working class. (Pictured below) They are shown to have come from a humble basic beginning as their clothing is ill fitting and they have a very plain home with only the essentials. Agnes and George aren’t the only ones who are shown to be in the lower classes within Mr Selfridge there is also Miss Bunting who is shown to be unemployed which shows the complete range of classes within Selfridges. They are shown to be of lower classes by their clothing as they are aged and worn.

Another example of the classes within Selfridges is when they are wearing the uniform as each of the staff wears the uniform slightly different (As Pictured above). Agnes  (Pictured on the far left) is shown to be wearing a very basic version of the uniform without any embellishment or detailing it is also slightly ill fitting which shows it was not made for her specifically. Comparing this to the other staff Kitty Hawkins and Doris Millar who had a more middle class upbringing. Both Kitty and Doris have a more flattering uniform as they are fitted more to their figure and they’re embellished in their own style which shows their own style within the uniform.