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fizzingwizard · 9 months ago

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Well I'm back... I took an unexpected four day Internet break because my router broke down. At least that's what I think happened.

At first I thought I'd used too much wifi (I had a cheap-o plan that always got throttled after watching like one long video on Youtube lol), but the speed was way, waaaaaay slower than any limit I've been hit with in the past. I couldn't load any website without hitting refresh about a hundred times and then it would load in pieces, and if it had video or images (like youtube or tumblr) it was 100% a no go. Couldn't even log into email. If I finally reached the login page, the signal would be lost while sending through my credentials, and then it'd be an hour before the page would load for me to try again... Absolutely nightmarish

Anyway, it couldn't have been the throttling. Then I thought maybe it was some kind of maintenance in my area?? Because I'm never had a problem here before in six years. Or someone who moved in was a real wifi hog...? But even that seemed impossible. Again, never experienced anything like it...

But it just seemed so weird that it could be hardware issue! Because I took my router (which was a portable kind) to work with me twice, and it worked just fine out that way. Only in my apartment it refused to move faster than a snail. I really thought it had to be a signal issue.

Conveniently, I also don't have a working phone right now. I was planning to use the internet to buy a new one on an installment plan... and then lost internet bahahah. So I couldn't call my ISP about the problem either.

So today, day five of no internet, I took the router to a store that sells the same plan, and they had no idea either (even after calling the ISP themselves), but thought it must be the hardware. And although I was a little skeptical, they did confirm that the signal should be fine in my area, and they also told me about new plans that cost the same as my old one but are waaay better. No throttling!!! Of course I was sold on that haha. I love the idea of actually being able to use the internet in the evenings during "peak" hours (still can't quite believe it... this is my first week to test it so fingers crossed!). So even if they'd been able to fix my old router, I guess I'd have bought this new one anyway.

It took three hours to get it though. Partly because I'm a foreigner and the order of my name and my middle name scared them haha. But they were super nice and helpful to me the whole time and took care of everything. I came home, plugged everything in, and voila, perfect internet. I got a non-portable unit this time because it's got a lot more power. I had the portable one originally because my job involved a lot of traveling, but I left that job years ago and just kept the portable router because it still worked, and my habit is to keep things until they literally fall apart on me xP I'm very much hoping to be amazed by what the non-portable one can do...

Dunno how I'm gonna make it through the backlog on my dash but I'm so happy to be online again~

#fizz's life #computar

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flockofdoves · 1 year ago

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but also i researched a lot and got a nice but affordable modem and router so we can save in the long run on internet costs and get wifi 6 speeds and we have a friends at the table themed wifi network name now with a black sails themed password. and then also i got a microwave yesterday and its kinda cool it was new but as cheap as all the stuff i saw on fb marketplace that i almost got but then like all the ones that were approximately 1000kw output when i read reviews they had major issues with setting on fire lol. and our new microwave kinda has a fun look and has a really sensible button layout

and just every time i look at these things and how at least downstairs is a bit more clear now its making me really happy :)

#cpost

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bayresources · 2 years ago

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Free WiFi

Xfinity offers the internet essentials program.

50 Mbps wifi to about $10

100 Mbps wifi is just under $30

With the ACP program. Wifi can be FREE

The ACP program covers up to $30 dollars of expenses.

You don't need to subscribe to xfinity for wifi

No one out there is really giving wifi that cheap tho

Thanks to internet essentials low price. ACP can cover.

Will need to qualify based on income

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Worth keeping in mind

You will need a coax outlet in the wall. If you already have one. Great!

If you don't, you may need a technician to come in and install the coax outlet into the wall and then they'll work their magic

You might want to check in with your apartment and make sure this doesn't violate the lease (want you to keep that deposit)

My coax outlet was broken, so I had to make an appointment for a technician

VENT: It's possible this may happen to you, but the person confirming my appointment tried to "help" me. Asked me to go to my router and kept repeating "turn on ur router". Despite the fact i kept telling them I was at work and that the coax outlet was broken. I asked to confirm that someone would be coming by my place to help me (the person said yes so idk why they were so adamant about "helping") and then told them to enjoy the rest of their day and hung up.

#Bay Area #Resources #Free #Wifi #ACP #Comcast #Affordable #Vent

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rosieblogstuff · 1 year ago

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It’s now an “everything on sale all the time” world in every store so basically nothing is ever really on sale. I bought a deep freeze at Costco for $50 off the price I could have gotten it for a year ago and gave up eyeballing the WiFi router I wanted to upgrade to because they just raised the “regular” price and then put it on fake sale for the previous price. All so companies can continue to make historically ginormous profits while ruining the environment with cheap junk goods that you can’t get repaired and crying about how wages are soooo high. 🫤

Black Friday is such a joke nowadays. “Don’t miss out on 30% off” don’t piss me the fuck off. People used to hit each other over the head for a microwave that’s how low the prices were. People literally died. We used to be a country

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transienturl · 22 hours ago

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The iPhone 16e is more of "we killed the iPhone SE and there's now a slightly cost-cut 16 without magsafe and one of the cameras" than anything.

For the most part I think that's exactly what we all expected; magsafe being one of the omissions is definitely surprising to me and kind of smart, imo. You want to cut features many people never use and keep the ones that make a good experience for everyone; a lot of people charge their phones with a cable (less heat!) and don't attach their phones to anything magnetically. A lot of people probably don't switch to the wide angle camera. A lot of people live in an area without much millimeter wave 5G signal, which I didn't even mention because by "a lot" I mean "basically all." A lot of people don't have wifi 6e routers (that one being cut kind of sucks because 6e devices on 6e networks help with congestion, but oh well).

It's kind of odd not to do more cuts and drop the price more, but I can't really think of anything else to cut. For device longevity and reducing e-waste, you shouldn't cut the chip (and memory I guess; something something AI). You shouldn't cut satellite emergency communication. You shouldn't cut battery (it might be bigger, actually). What else are you going to cut? The display is an existing part. A "cheaper" external build might not even be much cheaper to make, with Apple's volume/scale, and anything less durable is worse for the user (iPhone durability these days seems top-notch; planned obsolescence is still the silliest conspiracy theory). Don't cut waterproofing. I suppose you could cut Face ID, but I have to assume the usage numbers on it are really good and fundamentally changing the device unlock system... yeah, no. I'm a bit surprised they didn't do a 64GB storage option for $549, but that might be a good thing; 64GB gets tight quickly in my experience, and again, longevity.

edit: no UWB (precision airtag finding), also. weird!

Oh, well. It's basically an iPhone 16. Sure. Kudos for not intentionally making it look garish/juvenile or feel cheap just to drive conversions up the ladder, like many companies do with certain lower-end products.

I updated my table of iPhone weights; it's listed as a 3 gram weight savings.

also iPhone 17 mini please please please. there definitely isn't going to be one but come on Apple you've changed your mind on things before

#I need a tag for “computer bullshit”#phones are computers.

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eclecticreviewpeace · 3 days ago

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commanderxay · 2 months ago

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How I buy my webcams and how it ended...

Webcams, how not to buy them, but I'm stupid and learning

Because I have holiday now due to chrismas and I posted nothing in the last month, I decided to make a comment about how I chose my webcams - and it's not a guide or an advice. It's rather more a funny story. I wanted to see the birds on my feeder. So I decided to buy some webcams. Cheap, with network access.

Step 1: ESP32 webcam

I bought some webcams based on ESP32, which is able to connect to my WLAN. Sounds good, bought three of them. Installed an USB hub and 5m USB cables to support them with power. But there was a problem very soon. The connection from the webcams to my WLAN wasn't good, so I replaced it with three WLAN mesh routers (Huawei WIFI AX3). The network quality did not increase so much. Next step was to use external antennas with the ESP32 webcams. To do this, a little bridge is to solder on the PCB board. In 603 circuit format. I'm too old for this sh*t, so I messed up one of the ESP32 cams, it was broken. I configured one of my servers to record the stream via ffmpeg32. Works... okayish. But not really usable outdoors.

Step 2: more ESP32 webcam

There were some offers with ESP32 webcams and external antennas. But when I read the comments about these, they said "yes, antenna included, but not with the soldered bridge to use it, have to make it by myself". So no gain. Finally I found a guy on ebay who offers ESP32 with external antennas and soldered bridge. Doubled the price, but worth great. I bought four of them. Fairly good WLAN connection.

Step 3: The rats are coming... nightsight and better images

Now, there is the bird feeder, the webcams and recording the stream. But then, some new guests are showing up. Rats. From where are they coming? How often? I needed answers to take action against them, because I don't want to contribute to a rat problem in our neighborhood. The ESP32 webcams can only make shots at daytime (and not very good). I needed something to monitor the night. Next step was to buy some webcams with nightsight. I chose 2 x Denver WCT6000 WLAN (but it seems not to be an actual webcam anymore, now it's maybe the WCT8026W). Yeah, installed... but... they are running on batteries (change 8 x AA batteries every 3-4 days), the SD-card (32 GB) was enough to record about 2 days and - most important - the WLAN wasn't really a WLAN. You can connect an app to the webcam via instant-WLAN, but you can't connect the webcams WITH the WLAN. On the plus side: The wildlife camera has (aside nightsight) a pretty good image resolution, the stream has a higher framerate (>20 frames per second, the ESP32 had 6 frames per second) and I could it use outdoors. But nevertheless, I placed the cams at serveral locations and could track the rats and what they are doing when. So I could perform some optimizations with the placement of the birdfeeder, but there was no real solution. Even the city (or the neighbor where the rats are coming from) wouldn't do anything. After all, the wildlife camera was nice, but not a real solution.

Step 4: Reolink 510D webcam

On the road to perfection, the next step was to combine all my knowledge. I need nightsight, outdoor, high resolution, high fps rate and additionally I don't want this WLAN connection anymore. Too much disconnects, not stable. Wires are the way to go! I shifted to webcams from Reolink and I decided to take six of Reolink 510D. Great decision. I removed the USB-Hub with the USB-cables and replaced it with a POE switch, connected to my LAN. Now, I could remove the mesh WLAN routers. Finally, I build a camera pole on my terrace for the webcams and printed three connectors for the Reolink to attached the flat end to the round pole. I installed datarhei streamer on my webserver, so I could see the result via internet (and VLC connected directly).

Step 5: webcam Reolink RLC810wa

Just a few month later, I switched the webcams to 4 x Reolink RLC810wa. I would say, there is a real reason about it. It has increased nightsight (up to 15m instead of 2m), it has a higher resolution (which I don't need, I have to reduce the resolution because of the bandwith). Yeah. They are black. That was the reason. I'm some kind of happy at the moment.

webcam conclusion

The sequence of buying one thing after another may be some kind of logic. But the real step is, that you learn with every new iteration new problem, you have to solve, but you didn't thought about them. So I upgraded from cheap to a fairly high level of money, which left a lot of hardware behind me. I paid too much at the end - regarding the now outdated hardware. Most important, that nobody in my peer group could talk about this to me in detail. They had no knowledge about this, even if they have webcams for their bird feeder or other use cases. But one of my kinks is "privacy". There are too many webcams out in the world, which NEEDS a connection to the manufacturers server, look at "Ring" e.g. I had a Ring doorbell and I was yelling about the question "share your ring webcam with your neighbors". To this point, I was willing to set it up for my use, but thinking about THIS quesiton alone, I was healed from all f*cking company app bindings and so on. So I needed webcams. which can exists in my personally controlled realm and networks and have no dependencies on the outer world, escpecially companies. Nah... merry chrismas and a happy new year 2025. Read the full article

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eldritchsurveys · 4 months ago

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1252.

The last time you ate leftovers, what was it that you were eating? >> Teriyaki rice that I'd made the day before. What is your favorite board that you've made on Pinterest? . Do you get on Facebook or Instagram more? >> Facebook, seeing as I don't get on Instagram at all. What was the last thing you ate or drank that was blue raspberry-flavored? >> A Body Armor.

What is one annoying thing your computer does? >> Randomly disconnects from the wifi for a few seconds, but I don't think that's my computer's fault as much as it is the router's.

What was the last song you listened to? >> It Screams Disease, Carfax Abbey. Have you discovered any new hobbies in the past couple months? >> I haven't.

What's the wildest animal you've ever come in contact with? >> I guess a deer.

Do you trust your doctor? .

Do you ever question if your mother loves you? .

What is your favorite type of Lunchables? .

Do you have someone you feel completely safe around? >> Not on this plane of reality.

What church do you go to? .

Are any of your siblings' friends like family to you? . Do you have any friends who you exchange memes with? . What was the last photo you took? >> It's been a while... it was probably a wild plant or a bug or something like that.

Are you in any Discord servers? How often do you use them? >> I am in a few. They all have variable activity.

Have you ever had to see an emergency vet after hours? >> I have not.

When was the last time you sat under a blanket on a couch? >> I rarely use the couch. I'm sitting under a blanket on my bed right now, though. Feels great. Can you bite into ice cream or are your teeth too sensitive? >> I can bite into it.

Do you like snowy winter days or do you prefer rainy days? >> I prefer neither...

Do you know anyone who doesn't have a middle name? >> Sure.

What was the last thing you complained about? >> I don't recall.

What celebrity irritates you the most? .

Have you ever watched the Superbowl all the way through? >> I have.

Would you like to know the exact date of your death? >> I really would rather not.

What's on your to-do list for today? >> I don't have a to-do list for today. I did a lot this week overall, I'm pretty satisfied.

Do you know anyone who's been bitten by a snake? >> I don't think so, but this just reminded me of how in The Monk they tried to do a serpent-in-the-Garden metaphor thing but they used a centipede??? And then they had it bite the protagonist and he almost died from it lmao. I was so confused by that. First of all, do centipedes even bite? And why was it so venomous? Really should have just went with a snake, man.

Are you excited for Halloween? >> I am not. It's an all right holiday, but it's not something I'm particularly excited by.

What makes you smile or laugh no matter what? .

Do you prefer strawberries or cherries? >> Ooooof. I think I'll go with cherries just because I feel like strawberries are way more variable in quality. Biggest insecurity? .

Have you ever had braces? >> I have not.

Do you feel awkward using public transportation? >> Not in the slightest.

Describe your mom with one word. .

Would you rather bake a cake or cookies? . What curse word do you use most? >> Probably "fuck".

Were you always one of those kids who got in trouble with everyone around? >> I'm not sure what that means.

When was the last time you took a nap? Did it relax you any? >> Yesterday. I didn't take a nap because I needed to relax, I took it because I was sleepy.

Is there a secret you’ve never told your parents? .

What’s the hardest thing you’ve ever been through? >> Where do I even begin.

Do you like fast food or does it disgust you? >> Some of it disgusts me just because it isn't to my tastes, but mostly I just find it mediocre. Which was fine when it was cheap, but now that the prices are all jacked up it makes no sense to spend money on it when I can get something less mediocre at a legit restaurant for the same price.

Who was the last person you kissed? . What’s your favourite alcoholic drink? >> I have several favourites. Manhattans are one.

Do you like the smell of BBQs? >> Eh. Do you crash on people’s sofas often? >> I don't crash on people's sofas at all anymore, now that I'm housed.

Do wasps scare you? >> I get jittery if they hover around me for long periods of time, like that one wasp at Pagan Pride that was straight up obsessed with me, lmao.

Have you ever worn flip flops in the snow? >> I have not.

Has anyone ever told you that you & your significant other could be siblings? Have they ever assumed you were siblings? .

Have you ever heard people having sex in the next room? >> I've lived with other people before, yes.

Have you ever been in a beauty pageant? >> I have not.

Have you ever lost your voice? >> I have.

Museum date or aquarium date? .

Did you ever have an emo or scene phase? >> I did not, I was just always some flavour of goth. Name a subject you know a lot about. >> I'm not sure. I think I know a lot of things about a lot of things, you know?

Most embarrassing poster you’ve ever owned? >> Why would I be embarrassed by a poster?

Could you see yourself having a child with the last person you kissed? .

Who is your favorite person to have random conversations with? .

Who was the last person to make you feel embarrassed or uncomfortable? .

What are you known for? .

Which of the guys you’ve been interested in hurt you the most? .

Do you know anyone who is engaged? >> I don't know. What is your relationship status on Facebook? >> Married.

What are you listening to? >> Nothing.

What was the last thing you looked up on Google? >> "agatha all along" because I was trying to find out how many more episodes are left to go in this season.

Ever been kissed on the leg? >> Probably.

Do you think you are ready to be on your own (have your own home, job, etc.)? >> Having my own home and a job and all of that typical shit is not possible for me at any age. Has your ex ever gone out with someone close to you? .

Are you friends with someone who’s autistic? >> I'm some form of acquainted with a lot of autistic people.

Have you ever had a Bic Mac? >> I have.

Have you ever been to a convention? (comic, YouTube, etc.) >> I've been to two. Or three. I don't remember. What is the biggest difference between you and your best friend? .

#i have GOT to find more interesting surveys--#survey #surveys #random survey

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jexetic · 6 months ago

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Starry pls

For the most part I like Starry internet a lot (because it’s cheap and I’m poor) but oh my fucking god I have restarted my router three fucking times and my WiFi network is just GONE. Internet is working fine through my Ethernet connection, but my WiFi network has vanished. Idk where it went.

#starry internet #isp #tech #journal

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enetarch-electronic-engr · 6 months ago

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Banana Pi BPI-WiFi6 Mini is a cheap, tiny router board with WiFi 6, Gigabit Ethernet, and optional 4G or 5G support - Liliputing

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eonars · 6 months ago

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idk if it's available in your area, but the 5G home internet hotspots tend to work really well in cities and are good for travel (you can take your router and have your own wifi!). it was great for grad school bc i locked in a cheap contract for a few years & and you might get student discounts and stuff. with a basic plan in an area with sloooow cable internet i regularly got speeds in the 300 mb down range with 15-20 upload

Yes I think that's similar to what I'm looking at rn! There's also broadband plans I saw with no TV which would be ideal cause I don't even own a TV, but I'm gonna be away for the week so I have time to look into some different ones

#thank you!!

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gattsuru · 2 years ago

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RaspberryPi’s as a brand are ridiculously overpriced right now due to supply constraints, but there are a wide variety of alternatives. If you’re planning to use a wired connection and only use it for PiHole purposes, the Libre Le Potato is still nicely inexpensive. FriendlyElec has a ton of options, with the NanoPi M4 being the most Pi-standard, and some of these, like the FriendlyElec R5S (multi 2.5g ethernet!), are much more capable than the RaspberryPi standard-bearers. OrangePi and BananaPi’s are more direct knockoffs, though I’ve mixed feelings about them.

That said, non-RaspberryPi install processes may be a little more annoying if you’ve never used Ubuntu before. (Uh, or even if you had; for a while, FriendlyElec had their Officially Supported Distro on a google drive.)

The big advantage to the Pi-like form factor is simply that it takes a tiny amount of power, and takes a tiny amount of space, and in some jurisdictions this adds up. A 5w computer costs a thirtieth of a 150w computer in terms of electricity, and while that while that’s maybe fifty or a hundred bucks bucks on the east coast, there’s parts of the west coast where that will be closer to three hundred.

That said, you can buy used mid-form factor machines pretty cheap these days. A used Dell Optiplex 9020 will probably set you back 100-150 USD, plus the cost of a disk drive, and generally runs 10-20 watts. If you’ve got the space, it’s a nice compromise -- and far easier to update down the road to act as a local game server, or to operate a file share and backup system.

((Seriously, consider a local Nextcloud config, if your selection has a full disk drive rather than a microSD. Having differential backups on a local computer is a nice option!))

Because Raspbian cannot be upgraded across version WHY U DO THIS

Raspbian doesn’t let you do distro upgrades for the same reason groups like MXLinux are sporadic about it; they break pretty often -- I’ve destroyed handfuls of Ubuntu installs through ‘supported’ distro-upgrades -- and your machine won’t last that long, anyway.

((MicroSD cards have notorious reliability problems after about 10k-100k writes, so you usually get about two to three years of ‘normal’ use.))

Which is a horrible reason, except for all the others.

If you didn’t plug it in, and need to setup the wifi, there’s magic incantations to attach it to the wifi and to be quite blunt, I forget what they are.

Officially, for Raspbian, set wpa_supplicant.conf on the MicroSD card to contain:

country=“Your Two-Letter-Country-Code”

ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev network={

ssid="YOUR_NETWORK_NAME"

psk="YOUR_PASSWORD"

key_mgmt=WPA-PSK

}

In practice, I’ve managed to get it to work literally once across several dozen attempts. And the Ubuntu-specific version is even worse. The correct answer is to borrow an HDMI monitor and a keyboard for a few minutes to get initial setup completed.

((And you'll want your Pi-hole connected via wires to your router anyway. Will make things a lot less obnoxious.))

Apropos of nothing

If you are the techiest person in the house (and for many of you, this is not techy at all), today is a good day to build a pihole thanks to Google's new TLDs.

For the record, this straight up stopped Dad from getting computer viruses when coupled with the Ublock browser extension, so I will volunteer my time to get you set up. We will find an evening and do a Zoom call. I am serious.

Prerequisities:

Before you start, this will be way way easier if your router has a magic way to:

Set static IP addresses

Set a custom DNS server

If you can't do this, I'm not saying you're stuck, but there's some non-obvious failure modes and maybe it's time to buy a better router.

Parts:

Raspberry Pi 4B. 2GB if you just want to set and forget, 8GB if you want to do more things on this than just your pihole (Coughs in a MarioKart box) -> https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-4-model-b/

Spare USB-C charger if you don't have one already. I'm a fan of https://www.amazon.com/Argon-USB-C-Power-Supply-Switch/dp/B0919CQKQ8/ myself

A microSD card at least UHS class 3 or better. 32 is fine for just a pihole, I have a 512 in some of mine that I use for more stuff. https://www.tomshardware.com/best-picks/raspberry-pi-microsd-cards

Some method of flashing the card if you don't have one (Some come with SD to micro-SD adapters, if not a USB to SD/micro-SD adapter is about $10 off Amazon)

If you really feel like going nuts, go buy yourself an Argon case and then very very carefully never ever install the software for the fan that does nothing. The value is entirely in having a big giant brick that is self-cooling. If you want to play MarioKart, I would consider this a requirement. https://www.amazon.com/Argon-Raspberry-Aluminum-Heatsink-Supports/dp/B07WP8WC3V

Setup:

Do yourself a favor and ignore all the signs telling you to go get Raspbian and instead go grab an ISO of Ubuntu 64-bit using RPi Imager. Because Raspbian cannot be upgraded across version WHY U DO THIS

Download Rpi Imager, plug the microSD card into your computer,

Other General Purpose OS -> Ubuntu -> Ubuntu 22.04 LTS

So now you have an operating system on an SD card.

Assemble the case if you bought one, plug in the SD card, power supply, ethernet cable if you have one or mouse and (mini) HDMI cable if you don't. If you bought that Argon case, you can just plug a keyboard (server OS means no mouse gang; In this house, we use the Command Line) and HDMI cable into the Pi. Turn it on.

Gaining access

The end state of this is that your pi is:

Connected to the internet by cable or wifi

You can SSH to it (Also not scary)

If you plugged in an ethernet cable, once it's done booting (1-2 minutes?), you should be able to ssh to "ubuntu@<the IP of the system>". Look it up in your router. It may make sense to give the static IP NOW to keep it stable.

If you've never used SSH before, I think the standard is Putty on Window or you can just open a terminal in Mac. (And if you know enough Linux to have a Linux computer, why are you reading this?)

If you didn't plug it in, and need to setup the wifi, there's magic incantations to attach it to the wifi and to be quite blunt, I forget what they are.

Your username is ubuntu, your password is ubuntu and then it will ask you to make a new password. If you know the meaning of the phrase "keypair-based access", it may make sense to run `ssh-copy-id` at this point in time.

Router settings (part 1)

Give your new Pi a static IP address, and reboot your pi (as simple as typing in `sudo reboot`).

Open a new SSH session to the pihole on the new address.

Installing pihole

Open up an SSH session and

curl -sSL https://install.pi-hole.net | bash

This is interactive. Answer the questions

When it's done, on your other computer, navigate to <the ip>/admin

Give your new Pi a static IP address then point your router at that address

Set the DNS servers to the static IP

Then ensure you're blocking something. Anything.

Then do what you want to do. You'll probably need to whitelist some sites, blacklist some more, but the main thing is going to be "Adding more list of bad sites". Reddit has some lists.

And... enjoy.

/But seriously, there's some stuff to do for maintenance and things. I wasn't joking about the pair setup.

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kaylaannxoo · 1 year ago

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Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Free home phone service & cordless phones.

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htpowlaserenraver · 2 years ago

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Powerful Ortur Laser Master 3 Detailed Review

The Ortur Laser Master 3 laser cutter and engraver features a 10W diode laser that can engrave at speeds up to 20,000mm/min and cut wood up to 19mm thick. It has built-in WiFi and a powerful smartphone app to create and wirelessly send custom projects directly to the engraver.

I'll go over all of its features and thoroughly test Orturs' claims to see if this is the right laser engraver for you. If you haven't learned about this technology, please take a look at my previous article introducing this technology to help you quickly understand.

My box arrived a bit worn out but everything inside was well protected. Basic assembly is required, but should take no more than 30 minutes to assemble. I don't recommend using the supplied user manual - the illustrations are too small - go to the Ortur website and find a link to a YouTube video of the assembly, or check out the manual online so you can at least zoom in to take a closer look at the more tedious steps.

You can see everything that comes in the box, which includes some safety specs and a handy little storage box with tools and parts. There are also some wood, acrylic and metal samples to test the engraver.

The easiest way is to start assembly from the top down. Thread the Y-axis motor cable through the left Y-axis, then connect the left and right Y-axis with one bolt. The frame of the router is not a standard aluminum extrusion - Ortur makes custom parts that are well machined and lock precisely into place, ensuring the frame is square.

Once the Y axis is in place, you can slide over the already assembled X axis. Then mount the straps on both sides, which you need to blindly hook onto the pulleys inside the back assembly. It's a bit of a hassle, but if you're really stuck, you can remove the end cap so you can see what you're doing.

Then you need to attach the idler. Fit them loosely and loop the straps around them. Set its position with the included set screw to set the belt tension. There is a marker showing their best position. You can then screw the pulleys into place. If the strap is too loose or too tight, you can loosen these bolts and adjust the set screws.

You can then use the single bolt again on both sides to attach the front assembly. Connect the motherboard connector on the connector and connect the Y-axis cable that was pulled earlier. This was the most troublesome bit for me - it was very difficult to plug in the little connector.

You can then connect the other end of the connector to the X-axis motor and use the provided zip ties to loosely hold this rather bulky cable in place. Then connect the laser's cable to the socket marked "L" and secure loosely in place with a zip tie.

The laser module is already equipped with an air-assisted nozzle and a laser shield. It slides onto the X-axis using a dovetail mechanism and can be locked into its vertical position with a thumbscrew.

Plug the laser cable into the laser module using the keyed 5-pin connector. It's all very neat, making the laser module very easy to remove to clean the lens, remove the air assist nozzle, or replace another laser module in the future.

You can then install two stop bolts to the front of the engraver to prevent the laser head from hitting the front assembly. Slide the X axis onto these stop bolts, then slide the belts on both sides into the toothed belt grooves so everything is square. Screw on the WiFi antenna to complete the assembly.

This is the smartest engraver I've ever seen, and it's well made and solid.

My only two real criticisms are the rotary scroll wheel switch, which, while useful, is rather exposed and looks a bit cheap. What's more, the bulky wiring machine lacks any cable management.

It's easy to get caught in things, so I 3D printed a small zip tie base and taped it to the side of the router with double sided tape, which helps keep things organized.

It's a very low-profile machine, for reasons I'll get to later, but you'll still need quite a bit of room. Above you can see the required working space for the machine. The dimensions listed on the Ortur website seem to be a bit off. But if you want to move it around, it's pretty light at 4.3kg.

The top of the front assembly has a power button that requires a long press to turn on and off, and a multi-color LED ring that glows to indicate its status. Then there is a barrel lock with key provided and emergency stop button. Keyed locks are a welcome feature if you have young children around or want to use them at a school or makerspace. You will need to make sure the lock is in the open position and reset the position by turning the emergency stop button clockwise to open the machine.

Behind the front assembly is a microSD card slot in a rather awkward position, with a reset and boot switch next to it.

On the left side of the front assembly are the USB port for connecting to a computer, the DC jack for connecting an AC adapter, and the WiFi antenna.

The Y-axis switch on the back needs to be in the Y-motor position, unless you're using the rotary wheel that connects to the port below the switch.

The OLM3 features a 10W laser module combined with two 5.5W laser diodes. It has a 0.05 x 0.1mm focal spot and an 8mm depth of field, providing a good combination of engraving and cutting performance. Its 400mm x 400mm capacity is average for an open diode laser machine of this type, but smaller than the TwoTrees TS2 I saw last month.

Its biggest selling point is speed. Ortur cites an engraving speed of 20,000 mm/min, twice the engraving speed of a typical 10W laser. It achieves this through its low profile design and relatively compact and light laser module. But this low-profile design does mean that you'll need to lift the router to machine thicker items, especially if you're using a honeycomb cutting table. Ortur does sell foldable feet to increase its height, but I haven't received any to try.

Before I go on to discuss testing, if you're new to all this, be sure to see my previous article covering laser safety. The article also covers the basics of laser engraving and cutting, and the basics of using software like Lightburn which I will be using with OLM3. At least from a safety standpoint, you must wear the included laser safety glasses.

The Ortur does have some extra security features along with the key lock and panic button I mentioned earlier. It has tilt protection, which turns off the laser if the machine falls off the table, and it has exposure duration detection in case the motor stops moving for any reason. If the laser is left on at the same location, it may cause a fire.

Before you can turn on the laser engraver, you will need to install a microSD card - the engraver will not work without it. Be careful not to miss the microSD slot and slide it into the front assembly frame. I then connected the Ortur to my computer with the provided USB cable. You will be able to view the contents of the microSD card through this USB connection.

Unusually, this is a USB-A to USB-A cable, rather than a typical printer cable that has a square USB-B connector on the other end. In Lightburn you can also use the free LaserGRBL, add the engraver manually and select the GRBL with USB connection and set the size to 400mm x 400mm. The home position is on the front left, and you can disable auto-homing, as it will do it anyway. The laser has a focal length of 50mm and the laser module has a convenient spread out arm to set the correct height above the workpiece.

I found the extension arm to be a little flimsy, and it didn't lock into place. The adjustment changes slightly as you tighten the thumbscrew, so it takes some practice to get this right. I prefer the motorized automatic height adjustment feature on the Two Trees TS2, which also lets you automatically lower the Z height when making multiple cuts.

I wanted to test the high-speed claim first, so I engraved a grayscale photo of this cork coaster. I'm using 20,000mm/min, 0.1mm line spacing, 100% power, it's too dark as you can see. In Lightburn you can adjust the speed and power during printing, I ended up with 50% power for the last third of the engraving and it looks about the same. Printing takes approximately 8 minutes.

Ortur provides helpful guidelines for engraving and cutting various materials on the included microSD card. This is a good starting point, but I recommend using the material testing functionality in Lightburn to fine-tune your setup for best results.

For Basswood plywood, Ortur recommends 15,000 mm/min at 100% power. Using the Lightburn material test, I engraved this test image, which I would say is about correct, but I darkened it a bit and engraved the same image again at 12,500 mm/s.

I also tried engraving these coated aluminum business cards and after a little rubbing with isopropyl alcohol it worked really well. I again used Ortur's recommended settings: 3000 mm/min at 25% power. Although these coatings do give off some nasty smoke, even when extracted.

The 10W laser is even powerful enough to engrave stainless steel. You don't need to apply any coatings, and the little name tag performed really well at Ortur's recommended 2000mm/min and 100% power - even though my text did get a bit off center.

I cut and engraved a small tag out of leather less than 2mm thick and it came out perfectly - even the small holes were precise and rounded, which is a challenge for these belt driven machines.

When cutting, you can use the built-in air-assisted nozzle, but you'll need to provide your own pump. I tried it with a cheap pump from Fox Alien, but it was actually worse than no pump at all, as you can see below.

With the fan turned on along with the laser, the laser module itself seems to generate enough air for lighter cuts.

For deeper cuts, I used the main compressor with its digital regulator set to 15 PSI, which did give sharper results.

Ortur does offer some additional fittings to work with the air supply hose, but I just used a 3D printed adapter to connect it directly to my compressor hose. The hose fits directly into the laser module. It's a bit of a hassle, but you need to push down on this black collar to retract the little barb that grabs the hose to insert and release the hose. I attached it loosely to the router to keep it tidy and keep it from getting tangled.

The air nozzle can be easily removed when engraving. Just squeeze the laser shield lightly and unscrew the nozzle. This is a very clever design.

Like all of these diode laser makers, Ortur has some bold claims to make when it comes to cutting. According to their website, this 10W module has a maximum cutting depth of 30mm. Although looking more closely at their materials chart, this is using black acrylic, 17 passes at 100mm/min and 100% power, so you don't want to do this too often, even if possible.

But the more typical, stronger birch plywood was more of a challenge. With the air assist from the compressor I can cut 100% at 200mm/min most of the time. But the 10W TwoTrees TS2 can cut the same sheet at 300mm/min.

Jog the laser into position using the app with WiFi The OLM3 also has built-in WiFi, and you can easily connect to the machine using the free Laser Explorer app. The app does far more than I expected. You can select an image or text to engrave, create barcodes and QR codes, but what I find most useful is using it to precisely nudge the position of the laser. The machine doesn't have a built-in LCD screen to control the engraver, but the app is a useful substitute. I would be a little wary of using it for sculpting, though. When I turn on the laser to line up jobs, it sets the power at 4%, which is way too high and starts burning a spot on the material if you're not careful. I can't get it lower than 1% - in Lightburn I use 0.25%, which is enough to see the laser dot.

Connect Wirelessly to Your Engraver Using Lightburn I still prefer to use Lightburn to send jobs, and I did find the app disconnect a few times while testing. You can also access Engraver's own server via the IP address visible in the app. I was able to connect to Lightburn's engraver from a computer connected via ethernet. I just added another device and selected ethernet. Using this machine wirelessly is convenient, but I haven't had 100% success with it, with a few prints randomly aborting during printing.

The laser engraver is completely silent when not engraving. The fan is only turned off when the laser is on, when the laser is off the fan turns itself off after a few seconds. The fan is loud when running, but the motor runs very quietly. You can hear it in action in the accompanying video. The overall feeling is that of a very refined carver.

The Ortur Laser Master 3 is a very well designed machine that delivers some really good results. Its engraving performance is particularly impressive, with its high speed and fine laser spot. Setup is super easy, and I especially like how the belt and pulleys hide dirt and grime.

The integrated WiFi is a great feature, not only for use with the smartphone app, but also for wireless printing from the Lightburn, even if I didn't get 100% reliable results in my testing.

#ortur laser

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eclecticreviewpeace · 3 months ago

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