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Two Trees 30W Laser Module For TS2 with Air Assist

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How to Make Your Own Laser Engraved Cutting Board

I'll show you how to make a laser engraved cut board and we'll walk you through the process from design to finish.

A cutting or serving board is an essential in any kitchen, it is where vegetables are cut and prepared and the surface on which they are presented and served. Here we are using the atomstack a10 pro laser engraver.

Follow along as we design and engrave a custom cut board with a laser engraver. how to carve wood You can carve wood in several different ways. Over the years, I've shared two wood-burning techniques that are both affordable and easy to master.

Watch how to carve a cutting board

A wood burning tool is a handheld heating tool that burns wood. You can use it like a pen to draw patterns on any type of wood surface.

Burnt markers apply a substance to the wood that, when used in conjunction with a heat gun, burns the design into the wood. This marker can be used with a template to create detailed wood fired designs.

Both of these techniques are great ways to create small designs by hand without breaking the bank.

The next level up in engraving is the laser engraver. I own an Aufero Laser 2, a high quality machine built for crafters and hobbyists. This machine is perfect for my craft room, engraving and cutting dozens of materials.

Watch me unbox and create a simple project with this laser.

Can it be engraved on a cutting board Yes, exactly! You can engrave custom text and images on the solid wood cutting board. These are great gifts for your friends and family.

Laser engraved cut boards require a few extra steps to ensure they work properly. Read on for all the details.

How to Design Graphics The first step is to create a design to use on the cutting board. I love using Canva, an easy-to-use and very affordable online design program. There is a free version to try, and I recommend the pro version, which costs $119 per year. Try using Canva to create your own laser engraved designs.

Use a blank canvas and add design elements and text to create exactly what you want engraved on the cutting board.

Once the design is complete, export it as a PNG file.

Using LaserGRBL There are 2 programs you can use to run your laser engraver; LaserGRBL and Lightburn. Lightburn is a more advanced paid program that allows you to design and create on a larger scale. I suggest you use LaserGRBL until you are happy with the machine, then upgrade as needed.

Connect your machine in LaserGRBL, click the unlock button at the bottom, and open the design file you just created in Canva.

For engraving on wood I use the following setup. Line to Line Tracking horizontal direction 8 lines per mm These settings work perfectly for me, but I encourage you to experiment with different variations and see what you like.

Next, crop the design to remove any white space around it, and click Next. On the next screen, you'll set the dimensions of your design in millimeters, as well as the machine speed. Use the book icon in the Speed section to select the recommended settings for your machine and material.

Now that the design is ready, you need to set up the laser. Click on the center at the bottom of the screen, this will move the laser to the center of the design. From here we can focus the laser.

Loosen the setscrew, slide the cutting board under it, and place the amber acrylic piece on top of the wood. Tighten the setscrew and remove the acrylic. Now the distance of the laser to the wood is perfect.

Back in the LaserGRBL software, click the frame button. This will draw a frame around the design on the wood, it won't leave a mark, but it's a good way to see if your design ends up the way you want it to.

Once everything is properly placed, it's time to carve. Put on the goggles and click the green play button to start the sculpting process.

How to Finish a Carved Cutting Board There are 2 more steps to ensure that this cutting board will work properly.

First, sand the surface and edges of the wood with 150-grit sandpaper. This removes any rough spots that would interfere with the food.

Wipe the cutting board with a soft cloth to remove surface dust.

Finally, coat with several coats of cutting board oil. This is food grade mineral oil that helps protect and nourish the wood. With regular use, the oil will ensure your boards don't dry out and crack over time. For a board of this thickness, I recommend 3 coats.

We cover how to make your own laser engraved cutting board, from start to finish. Be sure to watch the video and save this article for future reference. There are also laser engraving machines with the same power: longer ray5 10w, sculptfun s10, twotrees tts-10

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Atomstack R1 Multi-Function Rotary Chuck

High Adaptability - Suitable for 95% laser engraving machines in the market. The white wire is used for ATOMSTACK and IKIER laser engraver. The black wire is used for other brand machines.

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ATOMSTACK S40 Pro, the cutting-edge laser engraver, has the highest 48W optical power in the industry for professional work and greatly improves work efficiency. He can cut through 18mm basswood, pine and tung wood, 9mm mdf density board and 0.1mm stainless steel sheet at one time.

Atomstack 

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ATOMSTACK MR20 20W Infrared Laser Module

The world's first consumer-grade optical power 20W 1064nm wavelength atomstack mr20 20w laser module, no competing products, suitable for fine marking of all common metals and plastics. It can quickly cut 0.2mm aluminum sheet at one time.

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Atomstack A5 PRO Laser Engraving Tiger

The Atomstack A5 Pro laser engraver can be compatible with various mature engraving software, such as LaserGRBL, LightBurn, support Win XP / Win 7 / Win 8 / XP / Win 10, and also support MAc system (LightBurn), engraving file format supports NC, BMP, JPG, PNG, DXF etc.

The all-aluminum alloy anodized structure design makes the laser engraver more durable, and improves the accuracy of engraving. The entire structure has been designed for quick assembly, and the assembly can generally be completed within 10-20 minutes.

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TwoTrees TTS-20 Pro 20W Installation

TwoTrees TTS-20 Pro New Generation 20W Laser Engraver & Cutter

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How to Engrave Photos with LaserPecker 3

LaserPecker 3 is an optical fiber engraving machine for metal, and plastic. Using a 1064nm pulsed laser, no damage to the material.

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Powerful Ortur Laser Master 3 Detailed Review

The Ortur Laser Master 3 laser cutter and engraver features a 10W diode laser that can engrave at speeds up to 20,000mm/min and cut wood up to 19mm thick. It has built-in WiFi and a powerful smartphone app to create and wirelessly send custom projects directly to the engraver.

I'll go over all of its features and thoroughly test Orturs' claims to see if this is the right laser engraver for you. If you haven't learned about this technology, please take a look at my previous article introducing this technology to help you quickly understand.

My box arrived a bit worn out but everything inside was well protected. Basic assembly is required, but should take no more than 30 minutes to assemble. I don't recommend using the supplied user manual - the illustrations are too small - go to the Ortur website and find a link to a YouTube video of the assembly, or check out the manual online so you can at least zoom in to take a closer look at the more tedious steps.

You can see everything that comes in the box, which includes some safety specs and a handy little storage box with tools and parts. There are also some wood, acrylic and metal samples to test the engraver.

The easiest way is to start assembly from the top down. Thread the Y-axis motor cable through the left Y-axis, then connect the left and right Y-axis with one bolt. The frame of the router is not a standard aluminum extrusion - Ortur makes custom parts that are well machined and lock precisely into place, ensuring the frame is square.

Once the Y axis is in place, you can slide over the already assembled X axis. Then mount the straps on both sides, which you need to blindly hook onto the pulleys inside the back assembly. It's a bit of a hassle, but if you're really stuck, you can remove the end cap so you can see what you're doing.

Then you need to attach the idler. Fit them loosely and loop the straps around them. Set its position with the included set screw to set the belt tension. There is a marker showing their best position. You can then screw the pulleys into place. If the strap is too loose or too tight, you can loosen these bolts and adjust the set screws.

You can then use the single bolt again on both sides to attach the front assembly. Connect the motherboard connector on the connector and connect the Y-axis cable that was pulled earlier. This was the most troublesome bit for me - it was very difficult to plug in the little connector.

You can then connect the other end of the connector to the X-axis motor and use the provided zip ties to loosely hold this rather bulky cable in place. Then connect the laser's cable to the socket marked "L" and secure loosely in place with a zip tie.

The laser module is already equipped with an air-assisted nozzle and a laser shield. It slides onto the X-axis using a dovetail mechanism and can be locked into its vertical position with a thumbscrew.

Plug the laser cable into the laser module using the keyed 5-pin connector. It's all very neat, making the laser module very easy to remove to clean the lens, remove the air assist nozzle, or replace another laser module in the future.

You can then install two stop bolts to the front of the engraver to prevent the laser head from hitting the front assembly. Slide the X axis onto these stop bolts, then slide the belts on both sides into the toothed belt grooves so everything is square. Screw on the WiFi antenna to complete the assembly.

This is the smartest engraver I've ever seen, and it's well made and solid.

My only two real criticisms are the rotary scroll wheel switch, which, while useful, is rather exposed and looks a bit cheap. What's more, the bulky wiring machine lacks any cable management.

It's easy to get caught in things, so I 3D printed a small zip tie base and taped it to the side of the router with double sided tape, which helps keep things organized.

It's a very low-profile machine, for reasons I'll get to later, but you'll still need quite a bit of room. Above you can see the required working space for the machine. The dimensions listed on the Ortur website seem to be a bit off. But if you want to move it around, it's pretty light at 4.3kg.

The top of the front assembly has a power button that requires a long press to turn on and off, and a multi-color LED ring that glows to indicate its status. Then there is a barrel lock with key provided and emergency stop button. Keyed locks are a welcome feature if you have young children around or want to use them at a school or makerspace. You will need to make sure the lock is in the open position and reset the position by turning the emergency stop button clockwise to open the machine.

Behind the front assembly is a microSD card slot in a rather awkward position, with a reset and boot switch next to it.

On the left side of the front assembly are the USB port for connecting to a computer, the DC jack for connecting an AC adapter, and the WiFi antenna.

The Y-axis switch on the back needs to be in the Y-motor position, unless you're using the rotary wheel that connects to the port below the switch.

The OLM3 features a 10W laser module combined with two 5.5W laser diodes. It has a 0.05 x 0.1mm focal spot and an 8mm depth of field, providing a good combination of engraving and cutting performance. Its 400mm x 400mm capacity is average for an open diode laser machine of this type, but smaller than the TwoTrees TS2 I saw last month.

Its biggest selling point is speed. Ortur cites an engraving speed of 20,000 mm/min, twice the engraving speed of a typical 10W laser. It achieves this through its low profile design and relatively compact and light laser module. But this low-profile design does mean that you'll need to lift the router to machine thicker items, especially if you're using a honeycomb cutting table. Ortur does sell foldable feet to increase its height, but I haven't received any to try.

Before I go on to discuss testing, if you're new to all this, be sure to see my previous article covering laser safety. The article also covers the basics of laser engraving and cutting, and the basics of using software like Lightburn which I will be using with OLM3. At least from a safety standpoint, you must wear the included laser safety glasses.

The Ortur does have some extra security features along with the key lock and panic button I mentioned earlier. It has tilt protection, which turns off the laser if the machine falls off the table, and it has exposure duration detection in case the motor stops moving for any reason. If the laser is left on at the same location, it may cause a fire.

Before you can turn on the laser engraver, you will need to install a microSD card - the engraver will not work without it. Be careful not to miss the microSD slot and slide it into the front assembly frame. I then connected the Ortur to my computer with the provided USB cable. You will be able to view the contents of the microSD card through this USB connection.

Unusually, this is a USB-A to USB-A cable, rather than a typical printer cable that has a square USB-B connector on the other end. In Lightburn you can also use the free LaserGRBL, add the engraver manually and select the GRBL with USB connection and set the size to 400mm x 400mm. The home position is on the front left, and you can disable auto-homing, as it will do it anyway. The laser has a focal length of 50mm and the laser module has a convenient spread out arm to set the correct height above the workpiece.

I found the extension arm to be a little flimsy, and it didn't lock into place. The adjustment changes slightly as you tighten the thumbscrew, so it takes some practice to get this right. I prefer the motorized automatic height adjustment feature on the Two Trees TS2, which also lets you automatically lower the Z height when making multiple cuts.

I wanted to test the high-speed claim first, so I engraved a grayscale photo of this cork coaster. I'm using 20,000mm/min, 0.1mm line spacing, 100% power, it's too dark as you can see. In Lightburn you can adjust the speed and power during printing, I ended up with 50% power for the last third of the engraving and it looks about the same. Printing takes approximately 8 minutes.

Ortur provides helpful guidelines for engraving and cutting various materials on the included microSD card. This is a good starting point, but I recommend using the material testing functionality in Lightburn to fine-tune your setup for best results.

For Basswood plywood, Ortur recommends 15,000 mm/min at 100% power. Using the Lightburn material test, I engraved this test image, which I would say is about correct, but I darkened it a bit and engraved the same image again at 12,500 mm/s.

I also tried engraving these coated aluminum business cards and after a little rubbing with isopropyl alcohol it worked really well. I again used Ortur's recommended settings: 3000 mm/min at 25% power. Although these coatings do give off some nasty smoke, even when extracted.

The 10W laser is even powerful enough to engrave stainless steel. You don't need to apply any coatings, and the little name tag performed really well at Ortur's recommended 2000mm/min and 100% power - even though my text did get a bit off center.

I cut and engraved a small tag out of leather less than 2mm thick and it came out perfectly - even the small holes were precise and rounded, which is a challenge for these belt driven machines.

When cutting, you can use the built-in air-assisted nozzle, but you'll need to provide your own pump. I tried it with a cheap pump from Fox Alien, but it was actually worse than no pump at all, as you can see below.

With the fan turned on along with the laser, the laser module itself seems to generate enough air for lighter cuts.

For deeper cuts, I used the main compressor with its digital regulator set to 15 PSI, which did give sharper results.

Ortur does offer some additional fittings to work with the air supply hose, but I just used a 3D printed adapter to connect it directly to my compressor hose. The hose fits directly into the laser module. It's a bit of a hassle, but you need to push down on this black collar to retract the little barb that grabs the hose to insert and release the hose. I attached it loosely to the router to keep it tidy and keep it from getting tangled.

The air nozzle can be easily removed when engraving. Just squeeze the laser shield lightly and unscrew the nozzle. This is a very clever design.

Like all of these diode laser makers, Ortur has some bold claims to make when it comes to cutting. According to their website, this 10W module has a maximum cutting depth of 30mm. Although looking more closely at their materials chart, this is using black acrylic, 17 passes at 100mm/min and 100% power, so you don't want to do this too often, even if possible.

But the more typical, stronger birch plywood was more of a challenge. With the air assist from the compressor I can cut 100% at 200mm/min most of the time. But the 10W TwoTrees TS2 can cut the same sheet at 300mm/min.

Jog the laser into position using the app with WiFi The OLM3 also has built-in WiFi, and you can easily connect to the machine using the free Laser Explorer app. The app does far more than I expected. You can select an image or text to engrave, create barcodes and QR codes, but what I find most useful is using it to precisely nudge the position of the laser. The machine doesn't have a built-in LCD screen to control the engraver, but the app is a useful substitute. I would be a little wary of using it for sculpting, though. When I turn on the laser to line up jobs, it sets the power at 4%, which is way too high and starts burning a spot on the material if you're not careful. I can't get it lower than 1% - in Lightburn I use 0.25%, which is enough to see the laser dot.

Connect Wirelessly to Your Engraver Using Lightburn I still prefer to use Lightburn to send jobs, and I did find the app disconnect a few times while testing. You can also access Engraver's own server via the IP address visible in the app. I was able to connect to Lightburn's engraver from a computer connected via ethernet. I just added another device and selected ethernet. Using this machine wirelessly is convenient, but I haven't had 100% success with it, with a few prints randomly aborting during printing.

The laser engraver is completely silent when not engraving. The fan is only turned off when the laser is on, when the laser is off the fan turns itself off after a few seconds. The fan is loud when running, but the motor runs very quietly. You can hear it in action in the accompanying video. The overall feeling is that of a very refined carver.

The Ortur Laser Master 3 is a very well designed machine that delivers some really good results. Its engraving performance is particularly impressive, with its high speed and fine laser spot. Setup is super easy, and I especially like how the belt and pulleys hide dirt and grime.

The integrated WiFi is a great feature, not only for use with the smartphone app, but also for wireless printing from the Lightburn, even if I didn't get 100% reliable results in my testing.

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Ortur Laser Master 3 LU3-20A 22W Laser Engraving & Cutting Machine

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SCULPFUN 360° Y-Axis Laser Rotary Roller

Sculpfun laser rotary roller adjusts the size of the space between the two rubber rollers by sliding, and fixes the rolloer by handscrew, which is simpler and faster than the traditional multi-stage fixing hole adjustment.

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Longer Laser B1 30W 6-Core Laser Engraver Installation

With the most advanced six-core laser technology, Longer Laser B1 30W has a strong 33-36W optical output power, one of the most strongest available diode-laser today and thus a much stronger cutting ability. Laser B1 can cut through 20mm paulownia wood, 10mm black acrylic, and even 0.1mm stainless steel in one-pass, 25mm basswood and 50mm black acrylic in multi-passes.

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Brand New Sculpfun S9 Laser Engraver Review

The Sculpfun S9 is a high-end machine that outperforms its predecessors, the Sculpfun S6 and Sculpfun S6 Pro, as well as competitors like the Atomstack A5 Pro.

Like the Sculpfun S6 Pro, the S9 Laser Engraver comes with a manual of good, easy to understand assembly instructions. The mechanical part is almost the same as the S6 series. All necessary tools are included. Screws and parts are packed in separate bags and labeled accordingly according to the necessary steps in the assembly manual. The machine can be assembled in less than 30 minutes.

The Sculpfun S9 Laser Engraver features a laser diode that puts out about 5.5W of optical power - just like the S6 Pro. But the laser head itself is much larger, and has some clever optics inside that allow the beam to be focused for a greater distance and have a higher optical density, allowing you to cut thicker materials with more efficient power. The advertised maximum cutting depth is 15mm. We will test this. The Sculpfun S9 is advertised as 90W CO2 laser equivalent power. A laser diode is a fixed focus diode, which is pretty awesome.

The focusing process is the same as the sculptfun S6 Pro and S6 30W we tested earlier. For best cutting results, the cutting head needs to be 20 mm above the engraving surface. This is achieved by focusing on the aluminum blocks. The head is then focused with the reticle positioned approximately 3 mm above the surface. But the good thing is that you can easily remove the shade if needed. This will come in handy when carving odd objects like spoons, axes, and other irregularly shaped objects. The laser head is tightened by a thumb screw, making the focusing process quick and easy.

For cutting thicker materials, it is recommended to remove the acrylic protective cover and focus the laser head a few millimeters lower than the standard. In this way, the cutting performance will be much better.

Cutting and engraving different materials Engraving: wood, leather, cotton (clothes), rubber, paper, fruit, foam, acrylic, black anodized aluminum, black metal, stainless steel...

The Sculpfun S9 is a powerful knife.

Cutting: wood, paper, tape, fabric, acrylic, cardboard, fabric, bamboo, plastic board, KT board...

With this machine, you can cut paper, tape, and thinner cardboard in one pass, and cut wood multiple times. The machine can cut acrylic and wood, especially poplar plywood, which is soft and is the wood of choice for all laser cutters.

We have tested the machine with engraving and cutting different materials. You will find our test results in the following chapters.

Software and Supported Formats You can use the Sculpfun laser engraver with the free LaserGRBL software, which works fine but is a bit clumsy to use. It's great for some tests, but I chose Lightburn, which is more powerful and intuitive to use. While it's not free, the license costs $60. However, the software offers a 1-month fully functional free trial, which will help you decide if it's worth it. For me, it's definitely worth it because it saves a lot of time (it's not free).

With LaserGRBL you can import vector files (NC, BMP, JPG, PNG, DXF...) and bitmap image files (bmp, jpg, png and gif),

Lightburn supports even more formats: AI, SVG, DXF, PDF, HPGL, PLT, and RD for vector formats, PNG, JPEG, BMP, TIFF, TGA, and GIF for image formats.

The vector format is the preferred format for these machines because it contains the path around the edge of the shape that the laser head traces. Engraving vector files is faster because the laser cuts directly on the path instead of scanning and dotting the bitmap image (photo) as a printer does.

You can get millions of free vector designs on the Internet, or you can use a free vector drawing program like Inkscape or QCAD (for more technical drawings) You can also import tons of vector designs and images from free vector sites, or you can buy beautiful laser designs on sites like Etsy. This really expands your capabilities.

wood carving Our standard engraving patterns are designed to demonstrate the engraving capabilities at different settings, so you can see the effect of the laser beam.

What's immediately apparent is that the Sculpfun S9's engravings are sharper and more contrasty than other machines we've tested before. Also, the wood surface is basically free of smoke stains. That's very impressive!

The power scale test pattern shows how the machine carves at different power levels at different speeds.

Power is varied from 10% to 100% in 10% increments at speeds of 600, 1200, 1800 and 2400 mm/min. We omitted doing the low speed/high power shape with the Atomstack A5 20W because the beam burns too much at low speed. This left a large charred blob that provided no useful information.

At first glance, the Sculpfun S9 has significantly higher power output than the Sculpfun S6 Pro. We'll see if this is true in a later test.

The interval scale test here is used to show whether the laser focus shape is square or rectangular. The scanning interval gradually increases from 0.1mm to 0.5mm.

In this test, the Sculpfun S9 showed that the shape of the beam was very close to rectangular, as the vertical and horizontal sculpting was well balanced.

We will be able to estimate the exact spot shape later when we test the engraving on the anodized aluminum.

This is a test of engraving a small photo of 20mm size while varying the maximum laser power. Engraving photos is very slow because the laser head has to scan line by line like an inkjet printer. If you want to engrave a very large photo, be prepared to wait for hours :)

As we'll see below, the Sculpfun S9 is by far the best engraver for engraving photos. Photos look very sharp, with high detail and contrast.

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High Power and High Accuracy Longer Ray5 10W 

LONGER RAY5 laser engraver has a built-in 3.5 touch screen with a friendly user interface.  This allows us to cut multiple pieces of plywood or images to be engraved without tying up your computer to run it.

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Ortur Laser Master 3 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine 10W LM3 Laser Engraver With Air Assist Nozzle 20,000mm/Min Engraving Speed And App Control - 20,000mm/min Speed--bringing you more perfect works in less time. - Depth of 8mm field--Support 30mm cutting. - 0.01mm Precision--Engraved on narrow borders easily. - ORTUR APP 'Laser Explorer'--Take a photo and engrave everytime. - 7 Safety Features--create a safe operating state. - Various External Interfaces--USB, SD card, WiFi, APP, U disk.

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Longer RAY5 5W Laser Engraving Cutting Machine

Longer RAY5 5W laser engraver has a built-in 3.5” touch screen with a friendly user interface. This allows us to cut multiple pieces of plywood or images to be engraved without tying up your computer to run it.

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- Suitable For Professionals, Shops Or Factory - Automatically Controlled Air Assist System Makes Engraving And Cutting Very Clean - SCULPFUN S30 Pro Max Can Cut 15mm Balsa Wood And 10cm Plywood At One Time - Purchase a y-Axis Expansion Kit Can Expand The Engraving Area To 935x400mm - Purchase An Xy-Axis Expansion Kit Can Upgrade Up To 935x905mm Engraving Area - Replaceable Lens Makes The Laser Life More Than 10 Times Longer Than Other Lasers