#bidassoa river

[nobility-art]

Exchange Of The Two Princesses Of France And Spain On The Bidassoa River In Hendaye

Artist: Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish, 1577 - 1640)

Date: 1615

Exchange of the Two princesses of France and Spain on the Bidassoa River in Hendaye is an Allegoric representation of the marriage between Anne of Austria and Louis XIII on one hand, and between Isabella of France (1602-1644) and Philip IV on the other.

[postcard-from-the-past]

Boat trip on the Bidassoa river by Hendaye, Basque country region of France

French vintage postcard

[unamass]

Estuaire de la Bidassoa / Baie de Chingoudy / Tempête Bruno

photo: Pascal Maire

[impetuous-impulse]

31st July, 1794

Since it is Moncey’s birthday at this time of the year, I thought it would be interesting to present how he spent his birthday at another point in his life. As Col. Ramsay Weston Phipps supplies in Vol. 3 of his Armies of the First French Republic, 228 years ago to this date, on his 40th birthday, Moncey was engaged in operations in the Baztan Valley on the Spanish frontier, as part of the Arm��e des Pyrenées-Occidentales, or the Army of the Western Pyrenees. At that time, he had recently been promoted to general de brigade due to his actions at the Battle of Sans Culottes Camp (which was the actual name of the French camp), an affair which Phipps describes as thus:

[On the 5th of February, 1794,] Lieut.-Colonel [or chef de bataillon] Moncey had been ill for a fortnight and intended to go back to Bayonne next day. This morning he was in bed, having taken an emetic, when he heard the noise of the attack. Hastening to his men, weak as he was, he remained on the field until he had seen the withdrawal of the enemy. For this the Representatives, making him skip a rank, on the 18th February 1794 promoted him General of Brigade, basing this not only on his conduct at Château-Pignon on the 6th June 1793 and by Saint-Jean-de-Luz on the 23rd July, and this last affair, but also on the attachment of his comrades for him. (vol. 3, p. 150.)

From the above, Moncey seems to have been held in esteem for his conduct and person since the Revolutionary days, and that would not change throughout the Empire and Restoration. His superiors’ trust in him was further evidenced when Moncey’s commander-in-chief Jacques Muller ordered him to assault the Baztan Valley in late July 1794.

Image from Wikipedia’s English article of the Battle of the Baztan Valley.

It is significant of the regard in which Moncey was already held, that he, only recently promoted, was sent to the right to command the strongest column and the one which was to deal the first and most important blow. Whilst Mauco and Marbot kept the enemy in Roncesvalles in check, three columns were formed to seize the Baztan valley, and then marching westwards to roll up the Spanish line on the Bidassoa. On the night of the 24th July Moncey with some 10,000 men (13 battalions and 800 horse) began his march, and coming over the Col de Maya he next day seized the Baztan valley, where his troops enjoyed the sight of the rich country they had reached. […] On the 27th July, while Robespierre was being overthrown, Moncey started from Elizondo in the Baztan valley with 6,000 men and, marching for thirty-two hours by the difficult Echalar (or Atchiola) road across the mountains, he joined Delaborde at Lesaca, whence the two, 12,000 strong, marched west to support the attack of the right column from Hendaye and the mouth of the Bidassoa. It was intended that, when Moncey and Delaborde should arrive, Frègeville with the right column (6,000 men) should cross the river and attack the fortified camp of San Martial, which covered Irun. Frègeville, however, not knowing that Moncey had been delayed in his mountain march, advanced on the 1st August. Then the Spaniards, aware that Moncey and Delaborde were now in their rear, blew up their works and retired with heavy loss. This caused the surrender of the virgin fortress of Fuenterrabia. (vol. 3, pp. 186-187.)

The event in itself is not of as much interest as what can be read between the lines. Moncey spent his 40th birthday 'toughing it out' on rough mountain roads—barren terrain unlikely to provide more for a meal than the rations brought with him, and more for comfort than the clothes on his back, neither of which could have amounted to much in the first place with the army’s poor supplies. There was precious little a way to celebrate anything aside from doing so verbally, or perhaps draining a last reserve of alcohol, and likely that birthday went unacknowledged in the midst of operations. When slotting such an insignificant moment into the two decades of constant wars of the Revolution and the Empire, one begins to wonder how many Marshals and generals spent their birthdays in warzones, how many of those birthdays were celebrated, or, if lost in the throes of campaigns, they remembered their birthdays at all. And, with all the soldiers that constituted Napoleon's Grand Army, one wonders how they commemorated their birthdays in war, if they ever did; how many lost a comrade around or during an anniversary, how many had larger historical events dwarf their own birthdays—and how many lost their lives just before they were to gain another year of it.

The Moncey of 1794, of course, would get to live for many years longer. In the next few days, he would go on to finish off the business along the Baztan Valley, unhinging the Spanish defensive position along the frontier:

[W]hile Delaborde and Frègeville were sent south along the Madrid road to Hernani, Moncey moved on across their rear, still westwards, for San Sebastian. This fortress was held by some 1,700 men, but Moncey sent Captain La Tour d'Auvergne to harangue the commandant: his eloquence was successful, and the garrison laid down their arms on the 4th August. Next day Frègeville occupied Tolosa. Besides a mass of prisoners the French had taken all the park of the enemy. It was a fine victory …. (vol. 3, pp. 187.)

And a fine (if late) present for a military man’s birthday, one hopes.

[whatdoesshedotothem]

Thursday 5 July 1838

4 50

10 5

awaked 2 or 3 times during the night, so terribly bit by something – had slept between my 2 cloaks (my old maclean plaid and 8 years old green and black Paris merinos) – my artillery man, lance-corporal Colin Morrison, an Edinburgh man, was waiting for me – a fine looking soldier-like, civil man of apparently 24 or 25 – very fine morning – off at 6 – soon passed the little fortified gate (drawbridge and double trench) out of the town, leaving (left) the sandy inlet and the long bridge over the river (Urumea) and the road to Passages – we soon passed thro’ the ruined village (vide line 2 above) and pursued our road by a steepish ascent towards Hernani distant 4 English miles – about a mile or more from St. Sebastian, a fort, (left) on the hill [manned] by Spanish soldiers – hilly road – hilly country – but not much wood beyond bush wood – Colin talked all the way and explained their positions at the useless siege of Hernani – for what have the chistianos got by it? merely a little more elbow-room about St. Sebastian and a walk of 4 miles into the country – nothing else – the carlists are still all roundabout – the Christianos destroyed the convents and village and houses about St. Sebastian for fear of their affording shelter to the carlists – whatever the carlists do, the xtians and British Legion rob just as much – and Colin has often been ashamed even for our artillery (about 120 men at St. Sebastian but entered as marines because we have no right to send a land force tho’ everybody sees thro’ this flimsy subterfuge) – Colin has seen our artillery ordered to go to the different villages 8 or 10 miles off and take even the very beds the people slept and what was worse oblige them to carry their own things thus plundered to St. Sebastian – the artillery men are quite sick of all this – but the officers wish to stay – they like to be on service – and the commandant has extra allowances and Lord John Hay has £6 a month extra for table money as commodore etc. etc. – Colin cannot like the Spaniards – they have no heart – give us no thanks whatever we do for them – They think they can do anything and everything, and can do very little – will not stir themselves more ambition than the English but not courage to follow it – they themselves (the Xtianos) could have done nothing at Hernani without the English -  the Carlists fight better – never saw men behave better than some of them did at Hernani – but they are all light armed – have nothing but musquettry  - or else he agreed with me they might easily take even St. Sebastian by a corp de main and Hernani – I see nothing to prevent it – the 200 or 300 of the British legion at Hernani, look miserable – whatever happens they are always put into the worst quarters and have the worst of everything and cannot get paid – they live on their rations and plunder and as they can – they had confidence in the bravery of general Evans, but not in his talent – he brought the artillery into action at Hernani much too close to the enemy’s fire – if Don Carlos had had any artillery, all our men would have been blown to pieces – Hernani a poorly walled little fortified town, Colin said of about 500 inhabitants – 1 longish narrow street opening into a little grande place and one or 2 little side streets – more picturesque than good – a few of the houses handsomely carved on the gable front towards the street and seeming to have been inhabited by better sort of people – porte cochère into large room where stood carts or what not and au fond the large wide stone (handsome perhaps if clean) staircase – altogether Spanish – walked thro’ the town to the last xtiano guard perhaps ¼ mile from the town – 4 or 5 men there one with a telescope watching the carlists in force on the opposite hill, and taking care that the last xtiano sentry at a house a little distance below us was not surprised – the women with the legion are chiefly if not all Irish – I saw the serjants’ wife bargaining in the street – she contrives to do pretty well for she washes etc. for the men, and when they got paid she gets something, and they can live on her husbands’ rations and her allowance of ½ ditto – I think Colin said they had per man 1lb. beef (very good considering) 1lb. bread 1/4lb. cheese – I forgot what of potatoes and I think a gill of rum – 20 or more above proof – would bear 4 water and still be as strong as our rum in England – the artillery have all this for 5d. English and Colin said they (the artillery) could sell it to the [pursuer] at St. Sebastian if they chose for 10d. that is the price it cost him at St. Sebastian – a road direct from Hernani along the valley to Passages but not open because the middle part of it in possession of the carlists – or I should have liked to walk the round back this way to St. Sebastian – 12000 of the legion at Passages – 12 companies with 4 officers to each = 48 that is the colonel and major and two more I forget what he called them – I had thought of breakfasting at Hernani – Luisa had said there was a café there where I could breakfast – but seeing no signs of it, I said nothing but turned back – off from St. S- at 6 at the last guard (about 1/4mile out of Hernani) at 7 35 and back again at the fonda at St. S- at 9 10 having just gone on the ramparts to see the breach made under the d. of Wellington – breakfast immediately – café au lait – I was thirsty and thought the warm breakfast would quite refresh – the café seemed to have a queer taste – took the milk by itself – it was hardly down before it was up again! (surely it was goats’ milk which never did and perhaps never will agree with me) – lay down for 50 minutes till 10 and was dozing when the Captain rapped at my door – said I had not breakfasted but should be ready in ¼ hour – I had luckily brought up my wine from dinner last night – ate a little bit of bread and drank a little wine and water which did very well for me – had Luisa up and got her to write

SH:7/ML/E/21/0141

me out the bill – myself 20 réals – George 12 reals and 4 reals = 1 piastre or 1 franc .:. my bill was just 8 fr. – gave la fille 1 piastre or franc (took it from George who had exchanged a 5fr. piece) and in paying Madame veuve Iriarte gave her two 5fr. pieces saying that the 2 fr. over where for Mademoiselle Luisa – at the quai in 2 or 3 minutes but no captain – waited for him 20 minutes and embarked and put off from the jetty at St. Sebastian at 11 40 – dawdled a little in the port for one of our rowers (3 now instead of 4 as in coming) to pick up a bottle of wine or something – we were now myself and George our captain and 3 rowers – doubled the rock island to the westward as in entering and rowed 20 minutes till 12 – then hoisted 2 sails and went I should suppose at the rate of 5 knots an hour – a good deal of surf (considering the fineness of the day) under the citadel-rock and between this and the rock-island – we had considerably less to the westward of the island under the tower fort which Colin had told me they (our men) fortified without ever receiving anything for their labour – they did a great deal of work at first – they understood our government set all down to the Spanish debt – yes! said I, but Spain will never pay I think – In sight of Passages at 12 35 – sick at 1 ¼ - again at 2 ¼ and Fontarabia in sight at 2 35 – St. Sebastian-citadel, and rock-island, and tower fort – Passanges – all high green rock to the bay of Fontarabia (i.e. to the striking projecting rock called Pointe de Figuier [Figueres?]) – at the French end of it (north side of this bay as I call it, of Fontarabia – embouchure of the Bidassoa) red rock head looked at a distance like a red-tiled town – then while from this end all the way to St. Jean de Luz – land at 3 50 at St. Jean de Lux near the douane – the solider or douanier seemed afterwards ½ ashamed to have questioned me about my little packet of night things but I went in and opened it out – a good deal of surf in entering the little harbour at the embouchure of the little river Nivelle – I can well believe the difficulty and danger of getting in a bad weather – soon walked to the Inn – M. Junca and all glad to see me – followed me to A-‘s door, as if to see the happy meeting – but they fell back for all was deadly still – poor A- was poorly and all had seemed more glad to see [me] back than she – I had thought to try the land-way or at least go to the frontier, and stand on the bridge between the French sentry at one end and the Spanish at the other – no danger or difficulty so far – but A- wanted to be off immediately back to Bayonne – a diligence would go at 5 – But I fell faint – ordered a mutton chop – had it in the salle à manger and M. Junca and Conigo and others came round me – M. Junca had discovered that I was carlist – found it out from my manner on embarking yesterday – Conigo a contrebandier – M. Junca the means of getting formation for Mr. Mitchell  shewed me one of the notes Mr. M- pays him weekly I think for conveyance of messengers M. Junca a very good sort of little man – said I had trusted him and he would do the best he could for me – paid Conigo the 50/. as agreed and gave him 5/.  over for his crew – all parted good friends – the diligence, an omnibus à 6 places de chaque coté  (12 persons) horsed by M. Junca – about 7 persons besides A- and myself and George 6 women and a boy inside, and a gentleman on the box outside with the cocher – waited ¼ for us – off at 5 ¼ at the barrier at 7 ¼ - to leave our passport and take a receipt for it – I got impatient of waiting, and A- and I walked to our hotel St. Etienne – 12 minutes and arrived there at 7 ½ - ordered dinner – then had Josephine to do my hair at 7 50 – then a minute or 2 with A- all had heard of A-‘s not going to St. S- our coachman had not returned when she got back to St. Jean de Luz – poor M. Junca had looked after us, and not seeing the boat (while he turned aside we had put into the port of Socoa to land A-) was quite alarmed was just going to give orders for sending out after us when he saw A- returning and heard what had happened – A- said she had not got back till 5, and if I had not left her the umbrella could not have got back at all – the people told me she had got back between 3 and 4 – however I thanked heaven she had turned back – she could not have borne the boating and the impossibility of getting her anything comfortable at St. S- would have been terrible – with her a minute or two after my hair was done but I soon came to my room and wrote  the following in pencil in my little note book  she means to trouble everybody as little as she can will do for herself   I gently said well if you can do better I shall be very glad   I saw before she was all wrong and guessed the nature of her illness  it is astonishing how little I care  I was guiltless of thinking of her yesterday or this morning till my arrival   when at the moment I forgot my anticipations and ran up to the people and then to her I was soon set right  how different my last reception on returning from Spain to Lady S. de R-! dinner at 8 ½ to 9 25 and then had Josephine ¼ hour very fine day tho’ a light shower just before leaving St. Jean de Luz F71 ½° at 9 55

[dubosse-thierry]

2021-08-20 : Watercolor Sketch : Hondarribia from Hendaye over the Bidassoa river. . . . . . . . . . . #artpainting #artinstagram #artist #artwork #colorpainting #dubossethierry #drawing #inkpainting #ink #pencil #pencildrawing #paint #painting #pencilart #sketchbook #sketching #sketch #stilllife #still_life #watercolorpainting #watercolor #watercolours #paysbasque #hendaye #landscapewatercolor #landscaping #landscapepainting #landscape #hondarribia #bidassoa https://www.instagram.com/p/CXrCeJfIkcw/?utm_medium=tumblr

[eopederson3]

Where Does the Camino Begin?

It is annoying to hear or read “I walked the entire Camino from its beginning in Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port.” In virtually all ways that is a silly statement. Indeed St. Jean has become the common starting point for North Americans and other Anglophone walkers because of various guidebooks and travel reports. Readers of those are inclined to believe that they must for some mystical reason start in that French tourist trap (albeit a quite attractive one) on the north side of the Pyrenees. Historically, however, it was but a gathering point where one set of the routes leading to Santiago de Compostela converged. Medieval pilgrims from central France and some areas of Middle Europe trod the Via podiensis (Chemin de Puy) across the Massif Central and gathered to cross the mountains on what is now called the route Napoleon to Roncesvalles (Ronceveaux). They were but one set of pilgrims. Many others, those from Italy, Eastern France and beyond in the northeastward direction, were more likely to have crossed the mountains into Spain at Somport. Pilgrims who gathered in Paris under the Tour St. Jacques usually followed the coastal route through the forests of Landes and crossed not the mountains but rather the river Bidassoa into Spain, near where it flows into the Bay of Biscay. British and Irish pilgrims frequently arrived by boat and began their much shorter overland journey at the port of El Ferrol or La Coruña. And of course Spaniards and Portuguese living to the south of the French route (Camino francés) began their treks in the various villages, towns and cities where they resided.

All of this to say there really is no place where the Camino begins, except perhaps at one’s front door. On my first walk in 1998 I spent time with a pilgrim from the Netherlands who had walked from his home in the southwest of that country, about 75 days from Santiago, and planned to walk back home once he had received his Compostela. His journey was that of a medieval pilgrim for whom no RENFE or Iberia was waiting to rush them home after their trek to the shrine. He argued that it was not a pilgrimage unless one walked the entire distance from home, impossible, of course, for pilgrims who reside oceans away. On subsequent encounters I have met a number of European pilgrims who started at their own front doors, and a few of them intended to walk both directions with the considerable expenditure of time required.

As much as St. Jean is now the starting point for all too many anglophones, the small city of Sarria in Galicia is the starting point for many, many more pilgrims from around the world but especially from Spain itself. The requirement that all pilgrims walk at least 100 kms in order to be eligible for the Compostela makes the city attractive for those who wish to earn the Compostela as it is only 110 km from their destination and thus a little beyond the required minimum distance. It is easy to get there, for Sarria has a RENFE station and is served by several bus routes. Those who have limited time, are unsure of their walking abilities or simply want a sample of the Camino experience start in Sarria as do some Spaniards who mostly wish to boast they “have walked the Camino.” 

On my most recent walk on the Camino francés I began in Pamplona and after two and half hot weeks arrived in Sarria at the beginning of the 12th of October weekend when the Spanish celebrate Día de la Hispanidad, a significant holiday with many people off work. Crowding the reminder of the way to Santiago over that weekend was remarkable. Early the next morning leaving the city there was a line of pilgrims as far ahead as one could see, most of them with cell phones at their ears. The young woman just ahead of me must have all of her many acquaintances on speed dial, calling each of them to announce ���¡Estoy en el Camino!” (“I’m on the Camino!”). I did not encounter her later, but I suspect when she returned to her hometown she proudly displayed her Compostela and announced “¡He caminado el Camino!”

[newstfionline]

The island that switches countries every six months

BBC, 28 January 2018

Next week, France will hand over 3,000 sq m (3,200 sq ft) of its territory to Spain without a single shot being fired. But in six months’ time Spain will voluntarily hand back the land to France. As Chris Bockman reports, it’s been that way for more than 350 years.

The French Basque beach resort of Hendaye is the last town before the border with Spain. Out of season, its beautiful curved sandy bay seems to be occupied by hundreds of seals. But look more closely and they are, in fact, defiant winter surfers in wetsuits.

Just beyond a long breakwater is the historic Spanish town of Hondarribia and its sprawling, built-up neighbour Irun. The natural border is the river Bidassoa, which flows into an estuary dividing the two countries.

As you go upstream from the river mouth, the view changes. Imposing and colourful Basque buildings give way to industrial warehouses on the French side, and unappealing residential tower blocks on the Spanish.

But what I have come to see is Pheasant Island (in French Ile des Faisans, in Spanish Isla de los Faisanes). It’s not easy to find. When I ask for directions, nobody understands why I want to go there. They tell me there is nothing to see and warn me you can’t visit it--no-one lives there, it’s not a tourist destination like Mont St Michel.

But there it is--a peaceful, inaccessible island in the middle of the river, with tree cover and neatly trimmed grass, and an old monument which pays tribute to a remarkable historical event that happened here in 1659.

For three months, the Spanish and French negotiated the end to their long war on the island, as it was considered neutral territory. Wooden bridges were extended from both sides. The armies stood ready as the negotiations began.

A peace agreement was signed--the Treaty of the Pyrenees. Territory was swapped and the border demarcated. And the deal was sealed with a royal wedding, as the French King Louis XIV married the daughter of the Spanish King Philip IV.

One other detail was that the island itself was to be shared between the two countries, with control rotating from one to the other. For six months of the year, from February 1 to 31 July, it’s under Spanish rule--and for the following six months it’s French. This sort of joint sovereignty is called a condominium, and Faisans Island is one of the oldest in existence.

The naval commander in the Spanish town of San Sebastian and his French counterpart in Bayonne act as governors or viceroys of the island. In reality they have bigger fish to deal with, so it’s up to the Mayors of Irun and Hendaye to take turns looking after the island.

Benoit Ugartemendia runs the parks division for the local council in Hendaye. He told me he sends a small team once a year by boat to the island to cut the grass, trim the tree branches and that’s about it. The river is tidal--you can sometimes reach the island by foot from Spain--so as well as cutting the grass, the Spanish police chase off illegal campers.

The island is tiny--just over 200m long and 40m wide. Very occasionally, the public is invited to visit on heritage open days, but Benoit says it only interests older people, and younger people know nothing of its historical importance.

These days, crossing from France to Spain by land is a seamless experience except for the gridlocked traffic--but under the Franco dictatorship, the border was heavily policed. The Mayor of Hendaye, Kotte Ecenarro, told me there used to be sentry points every 100m along the river facing the island to prevent opponents getting in or out.

These days, the mayors of Irun and Hendaye meet about a dozen times a year to discuss issues like water quality and fishing rights. In the past, Spanish fishermen have complained about the shape of French boats and lately have been upset with French holiday makers in canoes disrupting their business.

The island itself is a low priority. It’s being eroded--it has lost nearly half of its size over the centuries, as snow melt rushes down from the Pyrenees and into the river. But neither country wants to spend money building up the island’s defences.

This year, there will be no ceremony marking the handover. There was an idea to fly the flag of whichever country was currently in--but Mr Ecenarro the mayor told me that until recently, that would only have encouraged the Basque Separatists to take it down or replace it with their own. So in a few days’ time--perhaps the world’s most undisputed border island will change ownership again. And in August Spain will hand it back once more.

[spanishbaroqueart]

Attributed to Bartolomé González

Portraits of Philip IV of Spain, when Prince of Asturias, and Élisabeth of France; c. 1616

Castillo Hotel Son Vida collection, Mallorca

When Élisabeth was ten years old, in 1612, negotiations were begun for a double marriage between the royal families of France and Spain; Élisabeth would marry the Prince of Asturias (the future Philip IV of Spain) and her brother Louis (later King Louis XIII of France) the Spanish Infanta Anne.

After their proxy marriages, Élisabeth and her brother met their respective spouses for the first time on 25 November 1615 on the Pheasant Island in the river Bidassoa that divides France and Spain between the French city of Hendaye and the Spanish city of Fuenterrabía. The religious ceremony took place in the Saint Mary Cathedral in Burgos. At the time of her marriage, the thirteen-year-old Isabel became the new Princess of Asturias; her husband Philip was aged ten. This marriage followed a tradition of cementing military and political alliances between the Catholic powers of France and Spain with royal marriages. (Source)

[vmzincforarchitecture]

From culture to nature

The architects designed this house for a couple and their child on the slopes of Mount Jaizkibel, in the Basque country.

It is located on an intimidating site. Far from the urban zones of the neighbouring towns of Irun, Hondarribia and Hendaye, it enjoys a breathtaking panoramic view over the sea, surrounding nature and the Bidassoa River, which separates France and Spain.

REHABITE architecture firm managed to reconcile two opposite intentions: the idea of a massive block, evoking stone and its telluric forces, which seems to have sprung from the ground; and that of a lightweight construction designed for minimum disruption of nature.

The house, which seems to have been simply placed on top of the ground, immediately evokes mobile container architecture, such as that used for caravans or spatial capsules. Surfacing work was carried out during initial development of the site, making it possible to obtain relatively flat ground using backfill. The quality of the plot determined the layout of the house and the structural choices. The structure was made with concrete, with some subtle features enabling the installation of corner windows overlooking the horizon and the parents’ bedroom raised one metre above the ground.

 The architects initially thought of installing prefabricated reinforced concrete panels on the facade. Having hesitated between several materials, they finally chose ANTHRA-ZINC®. “We had never used it on facades, but we were convinced we had found the appropriate material. The singularity of the joints along three different widths of bay and the nobility of the material gave us the special finish we wanted for the house”, explains the architect, who adds: “The colour black always confers a certain elegance to a building, while introducing a touch of mystery”, especially as it contrasts with a totally white interior.

Private house in Hondarribia (Spain) by Rehabite: Enrike Etxeberría Lekuona, Aritz Berastegui Aizpurua and Josu Laguardia Erastegui Igiñitz

Click and check-out more project

[homebrewtalk]

World Beer Week 1:04 - The Iberian Craft Beer Movement

The revolution sweeping Europe has blossomed in Spain and Portugal as craft breweries have flourished on the Iberian Peninsula.

Home brewers who shared their beers with family and friends are being encouraged to take the next step and produce larger volumes of their craft beers so discerning beer drinkers can find delights to please their palates. The craft beer scene in the USA has played a part in the boom on this side of “the Pond”, and it appears the last few years have had the right atmosphere and conditions for people who had brewed a few gallons in a plastic bucket in their garage, on the balconies of their apartments – even a rooftop patio in Barcelona – or just on top of the stove in their kitchen, to take the brave next step.

Armed with a map and a tablet or smart phone in order that we can access the excellent RateBeer website, it is perfectly possible for we craft beer fans to take the ultimate pub crawl from tap room to tap room. We can start in the Basque region, criss-cross Spain, occasionally nipping across the border into Portugal and ending up on the edge of the Mediterranean.

Even that won’t stop us because the Balearic Islands have their own craft beers waiting for us to enjoy and, right at the end of the crawl, there is a “new boy” planning to get in on the action.

Southern Basque

Effectively Spain’s side of the border with France – we find the Bidassoa Basque Brewery in the border town of Irun. The team of enthusiasts with experience in the US and the UK, returned to their homeland and set up the brewery with the Bidasoa river as their inspiration at the same time acknowledging an American influence in their brewing philosophy.

Their American IPA, named Boise, is named after the capital of Idaho, USA where there is a large Basque community originating from the first settlers.

Kasper is their German-style blonde beer named after the German scholar of Basque culture, Michael Kasper.

Mugalari is the name given to their pale ale. The Mugalaris or smugglers used the Bidasoa river to run contraband like livestock, sugar, coffee and chocolate across the border.

BBB’s commercial manager Christian Equisoain explained that master brewer Carlos Arrecubieta had been brewing beer at home for many years before helping to set up the brewery. “It started in the present premises, and now we have a taproom which is open in the afternoons from Thursday to Saturday until 11pm for visitors to taste our beers,” he said.

“We have had assistance from the Basque government and we are very grateful for it. As far as taxes are concerned, it depends on the strength of the beer. Craft brewing is growing non-stop and in some communities, it is growing faster than in others but I think this growth still has a few years left. There has been at least one microbrewery which has sold out to an industrial producer because craft beers are hurting their sales but there will always be brewers like us who do what we do because we love it – not for the money.”

We find that is a recurring theme all across the peninsula – these breweries sprang up through the love of good beer and the desire to share it with others with the same passion. But it isn’t something to be taken lightly, it requires guts and a particularly entrepreneurial spirit to start a brewery because the equipment is not cheap and the financial rewards are not huge – or even guaranteed! Just like natural selection, the better brewers survive and the poorer ones fall by the wayside and of course, the consumer is the ultimate winner.

Dois Corvos Brewery

One such adventurous entrepreneur was Scott Steffens who, along with his wife Susana, heads the Dois Corvos brewery in Lisbon. Scott proudly – and bravely – admits he has been hanging out in breweries and trying every new beer he’s been able to lay hands on for the past 20 years!!

“I’ve been a home brewer since the 1990s when I was in college in the US,” he said.

“When Susana and I moved back to Portugal in 2012 I knew the beer scene wasn’t very developed so I brought the equipment along and started making beer at home. Our friends who hadn’t been exposed to anything other than industrial beer really liked it and encouraged us and eventually we started the business. I’ve been hanging out in breweries and trying every new beer I found for the last 20 years, and Susana worked in advertising for a regional craft brewer in Seattle so we felt fairly equipped to venture out and try to fill a big hole in the market.

We founded the company in October 2013 and spent more than a year finding a space and procuring equipment. We bought all the pieces ourselves to save money and get exactly what we wanted, rather than buying a turn-key system and we brewed our first batch of beer commercially in July 2015. The reception in Portugal has been great and there’s excitement across the spectrum – from lighter easy drinking styles to stronger more challenging styles. The big influx of tourism has helped, but it’s the Portuguese who have supported us the most.”

Navigating various laws in Portugal had been difficult, with people in the same agency often disagreeing with each other, but in general, the government officials want to be helpful. The problem is that small scale breweries are a new thing so there isn’t clarity on how to handle them Scott goes on to say.

“As far as getting an alcohol license, that’s fairly straightforward and simple, which I know can be a challenge in other countries. Small producers pay half the applicable alcohol tax in Portugal and financial incentives for starting a business are easier to get outside Lisbon where the economy might not be as strong, and I know some brewers have taken advantage of those. We brew 850 liter batches and brew three or four times a week across a range of styles.

Reception of our beer has been very good and we reached our maximum capacity much sooner than expected, so we’re in the early stages of expansion right now. We should have a new brewhouse and fermenters online in Spring 2017. We’re looking at some international markets and we do ship some beer to France although our lack of stock that we can sell has inhibited expansion internationally for now.”

Mean Sardine Brewery

Another popular Portuguese brewer is the Mean Sardine which produces several beers to suit different tastes in the brewery in Mafra. Created by Rolin Carmo, the Mean Sardine Brewery is situated in Ericeira, Mafra county.

“Our brewery is inspired by this beautiful land by the sea,” Rolin explains. “We make handmade 100% malt beers, unfiltered with no colorings or preservatives and gas is produced naturally in the bottle. We aim to be a local micro-brewery, in the municipality of Mafra, and associate our beers to the county. Our image and names of beers are linked to the sea, influenced by Ericeira.”

Mean sardine brew two types of craft beers Zagaia (a Belgian Dubbel), named after a sort of lure used by local fishermen and Tarrafa (a Weissbier), which takes its name from a large, weighted net thrown by fishermen to catch fish.

“Our Zagaia consists of four types of barley malts, two types of hops added in three stages, candy sugar, yeast and water. It has an aroma of malt, caramel, fruit and some spices. It features a smooth malty taste with caramel and spices. The body is medium and at the same time dry to the palate due to the use of candy sugar. It goes well with grilled, braised and roasted meats, cheeses, tiramisu, chocolate cake and other desserts of medium intensity. It should be served 8 and 12 ° C, in a tulip type glass.

Our Tarrafa brew is brewed with wheat malt, two types of barley malts, hops added in three stages, yeast and water. It has an aroma of cereal (wheat), fruit (banana) and cloves; presents a wheat malt flavor, and spice at the end, and low level of bitterness. It presents cloudy, light body, fresh and a good level of carbonation. It goes well with light dishes salads, fish etc. It should be served cool (5-7ºC), a tall glass to create a good head and can be served with a slice of lemon or orange.”

Interestingly, Mean sardine beers are not on sale outside Mafra county although they can be purchased by those who are unable to visit the area.

“The experience of the landscapes is included in the tasting of beers!” Rolin explained. That same philosophy was noticeable with the other brewers interviewed. Breweries on this scale do not need to be in vast purpose-built factories and are often situated in buildings designed for other uses. For instance, the Cervezas El Silo in the Hortaleza district of Madrid has meant a new lease of life for a disused grain silo as the headquarters of a new craft beer already racking up good sales.

El Silo

Two years ago, David Velázquez, Daniel Atienza and Javier Serrano were home brewers but in June 2016 they brewed their first 3,000 liters and the El Silo label was born.

“Since then we have made another 3,000 liters and in the next few days we will make our third,” David said. “The productions remain the same size but we are reducing waiting times between each one.”

Their sales, in addition to via the web, are, for now, in bars and small commerce in Hortaleza but they also have some outlets in Toledo, Cádiz and Ibiza although most of their beer is sold in Hortaleza. El Silo’s growth is all the more impressive when Daniel reveals they are nomadic as far as their brewhouse is concerned. They don’t have one yet!

“We do not have our own factory. We are nomad brewers. We are looking for industrial land in Hortaleza for our future factory, because our philosophy is of proximity to our neighbors and that these can benefit from our expansion.”

Javier explained their mission which revolves around building a relationship with their customers, listening and acting on their tastes and preferences. “We want to be the local artisan beer of reference in, at least, the north of Madrid,” he said. “We believe in measured growth, without adventures that make us lose sight of our customers and in the future, we would like to be able to market a lager as it conforms to the brewing taste of our customers. “Despite being happy with the business, we continue to dream of a factory in Hortaleza to, as much as possible, boost the economic fabric of the neighborhood and create a sense of belonging and proximity to the neighborhood.”

Desiderata

When Santiago García, a chemist specializing in oenology, the study of wine and winemaking, began to produce beer in his home’s garage so his brother could sell it to his co-workers, their mother wasn’t very happy with the idea. Now, a few years later, these brothers from Mairena del Aljarafe, along with their partner Sebastián, are proud of their creation, Desiderata. This beer, made by Bears & Dreams in Seville, is becoming increasingly popular. The Desiderata website explain…

“The desire to create a traditional and natural beer using the most modern techniques… constantly evolving in search of new trends. The result is a range of beers with good body, rich aromas and varied shades.”

They produce a Pilsen, an American IPA, a wheat beer, a porter and a dubbel.

Barcino

Barcelona brewers Barcino brew four ales including Gotic, a Pale Ale, and a gluten-free ale. The message on their website perfectly illustrates the craft brewer’s raison d’etre and motivation.

“We are three friends who were tired of drinking the beer on offer in Barcelona. Back in 2011 we started brewing our own craft beer using a 5-gallon system on our rooftop patio right in the heart of the Gotic neighborhood. At first we brewed just for ourselves and for some similarly-minded friends who own bars and restaurants in the area. By keeping our focus on quality rather than quantity, things have grown steadily for us and we have joined the grassroots Barcelona craft beer revolution.”

So, our craft beer taproom crawl reaches Spain’s sun-kissed beaches and the sparkling Med beckons us to try the craft beers on the Balearic Islands.

Final Thoughts

Finally, and although it might not be politically correct to mention it here, it is hoped a new craft brewery will be opened on the Rock of Gibraltar in time for the summer tourists. The team led by Dean McClelland, an Irish financier resident in Gibraltar since 1999, is committed to opening a visitor-friendly craft brewery on one of several historical sites in Gibraltar.

There are still some details to be ironed out but the hope is that the Olde Rock Brewery will be up and running in time for summer 2017.

The Gibraltarian, British and Belgian brewers on the team have already started testing their not-so-secret ingredient: Rock Conditioned Water. The beers will be based on the very ESSENCE of Gibraltar: they will use a mixture of desalinated clear blue Mediterranean water that has trickled through the Rock before purification. No ingredient could be more Gibraltarian than that!

Due to the tiny size of the local beer market in Gibraltar, which only has a population of 30,000, the brewery will focus on producing craft beers which are impressive enough to gain a following in – and be able to compete with – established craft beer markets such as those in the UK, Spain and beyond.

So there you have it. By no means a definitive list of almost 1,000 craft beer producers, but hopefully an evocative taste of what can be just around the corner for the craft beer-loving adventurer on the Iberian peninsula. See you there!

World Beer Week 1:04 – The Iberian Craft Beer Movement was originally published on HomeBrewTalk.com

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Wednesday 4 July 1838

6 ¾

10 40

were to have been off at 8 – could not get our passport till 9 – very fine morning – breakfast at 8 ¼ left Josephine – took George, and A- and I (with merely our night things, a change of linen and our journal books in one sac de nuit) off at 9 50 in a calêche and 3 horses for St. Jean de Luz having our passport visaed for Spain at the French mairie, and at our own consulate and that of Spain – A- and I both in good spirits – A- had taken of letter paper to date to her sister from St. Sebastien – excellent road – very pretty interesting drive – the mountains fine on our left and in less than an hour about 10 ¾ the sea fine on our right – at 11 20 passed the poste aux chevaux at Bidart (1 ½ poste) and Tamarisk hedges – at St. Jean de Luz (1 ½ p. more) chez M. Junca, maitre de poste aux chevaux, hotel de la poste, at 12 50 – gave him the letter from our host M. Theodore Détroyat à Bayonne, begged him to arrange all about our passport – not safe to go by land – must go by a sea – in a steamer if there happened to be one – if not there might be a boat going – or we might hire one – M. Junca un petit homme vif – sent off a woman to see about a boat – the boats not here, but ½ hour off – ordered a mutton cutlet for A- and she having

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 fastened her door, I went into the nice little town for ¼ hour – singular church – one large lofty vaulted space – the large organ and large organ-loft to contain the clergy at the west end and the high altar in a richly-covered gilded bay or apse at the east end – 3 oak ballustred oak-pillar supported galleries on each side – the 1st gallery perhaps 5 yards from the ground (the floor boarded) and the 2 above about 4 yards each from the lower gallery and from each other and about 2 or 3 yards perhaps from the square of the roof – called at the poste aux letters – the courier goes Fridays and Tuesdays but now goes by land – so that the idea of crossing with the courier is at an end – on my returning found A- had put on stocking for fear of monsieur how unlucky on my return A- had had her cutlet, and M. Junca had heard of a Patron de Chaloupe (Captain of a boat) just going to start for St. Sebastian with a little cargo and would return on Friday – ended by agreeing to give him 50/. for a boat to ourselves to return with us tomorrow or if we chose to stay till Friday to give him 55/. – Corrigo [or Conigo] Eguia, Patron de Chaloupe a Spaniard but très honnete [honnête ] homme that M. Junca knew well and could count upon – we could not be better – to be ready in ½ hour – A- and I walked down to the church to spend the time there – she made a little sketch of the exterior while I stood by watching a man making linen-listing sandal-soles, and a woman sitting by him serving on the bit of upper-linen (coarse string stitched together by button-hole stitch) to cover the toes – Mr. Junca came to see us embark on the quai in the grande place –

Embark at St. Jean de Luz

written out Monday eight

on one side the house where the d. of Wellington spent 2 or 3 months – on another the old chateau like house while Louis xvi. lodged and on another the house where the infante of Spain his bride Marie Thérèse lodged – A- seeing no rowers hoped there were rowers – yes! four – she had not thought the boat was so small (a little chaloupe about the size of a Scarbro’ cobble) – however we embarked at 2 – there is always a little surf at the entrance of the little harbour – I saw A- was nervous – our little sail made us lean a little on one side every now and then and there was little bit of up and down – A- grasped my hand – said she could not bear it – would return – there was no danger – the afternoon was beautiful – the little wind or air was in our favour and it was a pity poor A-‘s nerves were not stronger – but I saw she was right to return – our captain could only speak Spanish – I had difficulty in making him understand that he must put in at Choco (the fort of ) I really could not make him understand to turn back – but by dint of ‘timore – ella – morire – io –pagare – intrate [rientrate]’ pointing to the fort of Socoa (pronounced as if Choco (tschoco)) I got him to put in there – there was no time to deliberate – besides our 4 rowers we had a stripling boy and a lad about 12 or 13 on board – left the latter to go back with A- and carry her cloak and the travelling bag – took out merely my night-chemise and cap and 50 francs and left all the rest with A- except my umbrella and parasol and 2 cloaks – asked her if she would like me not to go – said if she had least wish for me to stay, I would – no! she had rather I went – in 5 minutes poor A- was landed, and left, and I was re-embarked and off at 2 35 – In a moment I had lost sight of her – and I was pitching in the bay of [?] in a small open boat with a Spanish smuggler (for such is Corrigo) and 3 Spanish rowers and one old French basque rower and my servant George! – about ½ dozen words of French were all our crew could muster and about as Many English (‘good bye – very quick’) – in 40 minutes (at 3 ¼) Andaye (pronounced Andāiah) in sight (a village or little town – with a little tower (church tower or steeple?) and at 3 35 lost sight of Fontarabia (Fontarrābbĭa) [Hondarribia? ]nearer the sea than Andaye and on high ground – looking like a convent, or fort, or what? Irun (could hardly distinguish the building) forms the apex of the triangle between the two (at Andaye and Fontaribia) at the foot of the high 3 or 4 pointed torso or crest of mountain that is so striking from the top of Bayonne cathedral – at 3 35 re-embarked at Socoa – in 40 minutes (3 ¼) Andaye in sight – lost sight of Fontarabia at 3 35 – and ten minutes before this had had the 1st distant glimpse of St. Sebastian or rather the high tower (fort) on the top of the hill on the west of the harbour – the tower of Biarrits’ (pronounced Bēeăris) closes the wide bay towards Bayonne – and the rocky pointe de Figuieras [Figueres?] shuts out the embouchure of the Bidassoa (on which are Andaye and Fontaribia) – Sick at 5 20 – fine as is the afternoon and I quite warm the sea here seems to me as swelling as it was the night we went to Antwerp – land at 6 ¼ - having passed the citadel-rock and high conical little rock doubled the island and entered the harbour to the westwards of it between it and the tower fort – 2 English steamers in the service of the queen of Spain lying at anchor – [?] up to the jetties under the west side of the town, and landed by stairs so narrow, deep, and rough one could hardly get up – at the Fonda (n°5 Plaza ricja (place vielle)  reuve Inciarte) in 10 minutes at 6 35 – queer dirty looking place Corrigo introduced me to the especial care of the people – I could not tell which was the mistress – several women  sat together at a large table full of washed but apparently ungot up linen – the daughter (Luisa) could speak French – asked her to send someone with me to see the town and citadel, and to let me have dinner – she said she would go with me herself and sent a woman to shew me my room – it was au 3me but lofty, and large enough – one common chair and ditto table and ditto bedstead, no curtains – no look of comfort – I was down again among the women in a few minutes but had to wait till young lady was dressed (1/2 hour) when she and Madama appeared in their mantillas quite dressed for promenade – the old lady was one who had been driven from the country – lost all she had and come into the ville, and was at the Fonda I could not make out on what terms – but the young lady could not trust herself with me and George without a madama – I said I was sorry they had made so much toilette and that I really was ashamed of my travelling costume – However the young lady aetatis 18 looked very well pleased and out we sallied – to the church – one large lofty domed space unbroken by anything save the large organ and its large loft at the west end – the clergy (now 21) sat or officiated the organ loft – the bay or apse of the high altar one mass of gilt carving – and a lessen altar on each side of it, transept-wise – imposing looking interior – large odd heavy old plain building outside with 2 low west towers – then to the citadel very few soldiers – saw perhaps a dozen – several people walking along the traverse walks along the rocky hill side – towards the sea one or 2 tombs – that and among 2 [?] of Sir Oliver de Lancy railed off – I went up to read the inscriptions but a solider called me back – not allowed to go! the sea-view very fine from one side – the tower as if laid down upon a map on the other – the grand place (arcaded) and another place and one or 2 straight streets all round round them seemed to compose the ville – 3 convents destroyed by the carlists (the girl said) and houses in all directions unroofed

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and made unhabitable by them (for fear of xtians should take shelter in them) gave all around a look of ruin – one whole village just on this side the river on the road to Hernani quite destroyed – could go very safely to Hernani now – no carlists between here and there – could also go to Passages – but no farther – asked the girl to get me a guide to Hernani in the morning – determined to be off at 6 and back in time to breakfast and embark at 11 – out from 7  5 to about before 9 when I had seen all there was to see – had to wait a little for dinner – they seemed to expect George to dine with me, but on my saying it was not selon [?] habitude, he fined in the kitchen or somewhere, and I told the young Louisa to come and sit by me or I should be triste – I had soup, ham, chicken and potatoes – I dined on the 1st and a little cheese and bread, nothing else looking tolerable – finding no chance of a guide who could speak word of anything but Spanish took a man to shew me the way (not far) and off about 9 20 to our consul – not at home – would return at 11 to supper – this would not do – at the moment 2 English officers went upstairs – spoke to one them – said what I was come for, and begged to have a solider to accompany me in the morning – the officer very civil – Lieutenant of the artillery as I afterwards found – promised me a solider at 6 tomorrow am – returned to the fonda and went upstairs with the fille to see my bed prepared – ready by 9 ¾ - very fine day – doubted for a moment whether to undress – my sheets not feeling very dry – took them off