#U.K. crust

[savage-kult-of-gorthaur]

EARACHE PROMOTIONS PRESENTS -- THE PINNACLE OF ANARCHO THRASH IN ONE MEGA-STACKED BILL.

PIC(S) INFO: Spotlight on a rare live shot of rising anarcho thrash band NAPALM DEATH (not yet a grindcore band), performing live at the Union Club, Nottingham, UK, on April 9, 1983, alongside UK punk heavies SUBHUMANS, DISORDER, AMEBIX, CHAOS UK, and ANTISECT.

Sources: www.pixwox.com/post/674553396826354 & Pinterest.

[secular-jew]

Fish and Chips’ Surprising Jewish History. Jamie Oliver confirmed it!

You may be surprised to learn that fish and chips, though wildly popular in England for what seems like eternity, was actually a specialty of the Portuguese Sephardic Jews who fled the Inquisition in the 16th century and found refuge in the British Isles. Celebrity Chef Jamie Oliver referred to this recently in an article in the New York Times, adding that, “Dishes evolve, impacted by trade, war, famine and a hundred other forces.”

Among those “other forces” are dishes born of religious ritual. For observant Jews, fish is pareve, a neutral food in kosher terms, thus an easy way to avoid treyf (non-kosher food) and possibly include dairy in the same meal. It was especially important for Marranos, the so-called crypto-Jews, who pretended to be Christian during the Inquisition. They ate fish on Fridays, when meat was forbidden by the Church, and also saved some to eat cold the next day at lunch, to avoid cooking on Shabbat.

Frying was natural for Jewish home cooks — think of latkes and sufganyiot — and as the Jewish community began to flourish in England, it spurred a taste for its beloved fried, battered fish throughout the country. According to Claudia Roden’s The Book of Jewish Food, Thomas Jefferson tried some on a trip to London and noted that he ate “fish in the Jewish fashion” during his visit. Alexis Soyer, a French cook who became a celebrated chef in Victorian England included a recipe for “Fried Fish, Jewish Fashion” in the first edition of his cookbook A Shilling Cookery for the People (1845). Soyer’s recipe notes that the “Jewish manner” includes using oil rather than meat fat (presumably lard), which made the dish taste better, though also made it more expensive.

There’s some dispute about the where and when of “chips” (what we Americans call French fries and the French call pommes frites). Many historians say that deep-fried, cut-up potatoes were invented in Belgium and, in fact, substituted for the fish during hard times. The first time the word “chips” was used was in Charles Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities in 1859: “husky chips of potato, fried with some reluctant drops of oil.”

The official pairing of fish and chips didn’t happen until a few years later, though. Although there are some who dispute it, most authorities say that it is thanks to a Jewish cook, this time a young Ashkenazi immigrant named Joseph Malin, who opened the first British chippy, AKA fish and chip shop, in London in 1863. The shop was so successful it remained in business until the 1970s.

Who could foresee that fearful Jewish immigrants hiding their true religion and practicing in secret would be responsible for creating one of the most iconic dishes in the U.K.? The down-home dish that Winston Churchill claimed help the British defeat the Nazis, the comfort food that George Orwell said helped keep the masses happy and “averted revolution.” The dish, by the way, that was among the only foods never rationed during wartime because the British government believed that preserving access to it was a way of keeping up morale. A dish that continues to be a mainstay of the British diet.

Think about that the next time you find yourself feasting on this centuries-old — Jewish? British? — recipe.

These days, some restaurants are putting a new spin on fish and chips. Almond crusted. Baked instead of fried. Quinoa coated. Sweet potato fries instead of regular. And those are all fine; as Oliver says, “Dishes evolve.” But plain old fish and chips endures and probably always will. Good recipes usually do.

H/T : @scartale-an-undertale-au

Naveed Anjum

[mariacallous]

You may be surprised to learn that fish and chips, though wildly popular in England for what seems like eternity, was actually a specialty of the Portuguese Sephardic Jews who fled the Inquisition in the 16th century and found refuge in the British Isles. Celebrity Chef Jamie Oliver referred to this recently in an article in the New York Times, adding that, “Dishes evolve, impacted by trade, war, famine and a hundred other forces.” 

Among those “other forces” are dishes born of religious ritual. For observant Jews, fish is pareve, a neutral food in kosher terms, thus an easy way to avoid treyf (non-kosher food) and possibly include dairy in the same meal. It was especially important for Marranos, the so-called crypto-Jews, who pretended to be Christian during the Inquisition. They ate fish on Fridays, when meat was forbidden by the Church, and also saved some to eat cold the next day at lunch, to avoid cooking on Shabbat. 

Frying was natural for Jewish home cooks — think of latkes and sufganyiot — and as the Jewish community began to flourish in England, it spurred a taste for its beloved fried, battered fish throughout the country. According to Claudia Roden’s The Book of Jewish Food, Thomas Jefferson tried some on a trip to London and noted that he ate “fish in the Jewish fashion” during his visit. Alexis Soyer, a French cook who became a celebrated chef in Victorian England included a recipe for “Fried Fish, Jewish Fashion” in the first edition of his cookbook A Shilling Cookery for the People (1845). Soyer’s recipe notes that the “Jewish manner” includes using oil rather than meat fat (presumably lard), which made the dish taste better, though also made it more expensive.

There’s some dispute about the where and when of “chips” (what we Americans call French fries and the French call pommes frites). Many historians say that deep-fried, cut-up potatoes were invented in Belgium and, in fact, substituted for the fish during hard times. The first time the word “chips” was used was in Charles Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities in 1859: “husky chips of potato, fried with some reluctant drops of oil.”

The official pairing of fish and chips didn’t happen until a few years later, though. Although there are some who dispute it, most authorities say that it is thanks to a Jewish cook, this time a young Ashkenazi immigrant named Joseph Malin, who opened the first British chippy, AKA fish and chip shop, in London in 1863. The shop was so successful it remained in business until the 1970s.

Who could foresee that fearful Jewish immigrants hiding their true religion and practicing in secret would be responsible for creating one of the most iconic dishes in the U.K.? The down-home dish that Winston Churchill claimed help the British defeat the Nazis, the comfort food that George Orwell said helped keep the masses happy and “averted revolution.” The dish, by the way, that was among the only foods never rationed during wartime because the British government believed that preserving access to it was a way of keeping up morale. A dish that continues to be a mainstay of the British diet.  

Think about that the next time you find yourself feasting on this centuries-old — Jewish? British? — recipe. 

These days, some restaurants are putting a new spin on fish and chips. Almond crusted. Baked instead of fried. Quinoa coated. Sweet potato fries instead of regular. And those are all fine; as Oliver says, “Dishes evolve.” But plain old fish and chips endures and probably always will. Good recipes usually do.

[theconcretes]

With a cake-like crust, a cream cheese filling, a layer of fresh berries and kiwi, and a homemade citrus glaze on top, this U.K.-style fruit flan is a delicious dessert.

[tzuvenirs]

Fresh Fruit Flan Recipe This U.K.-style fruit flan has cake-like crust, a cream cheese filling, and a layer of fresh berries and kiwi topped with a homemade citrus glaze. 1/2 cup unsalted butter softened, 3 cups fresh strawberries hulled and halved, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 cup orange juice, 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar, 2.125 cups all-purpose flour, 1 package cream cheese softened, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, 1 cup fresh blueberries rinsed and dried, 1/2 cup white sugar, 3 kiwifruit peeled and thinly sliced, 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, 1/2 cup water, 1 large egg, 1/4 cup white sugar, 1/2 cup vegetable oil, 1/3 cup white sugar, 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar

[thejulietsband]

Fresh Fruit Flan With a cake-like crust, a cream cheese filling, a layer of fresh berries and kiwi, and a homemade citrus glaze on top, this U.K.-style fruit flan is a delicious dessert.

[crasher-crust-revolutionary]

MORROW

[savage-kult-of-gorthaur]

THE UK82 ERA MUTATES INTO THE UKHC SCENE.

PIC INFO: Spotlight on Gabba of Bristol UK punk/hardcore band CHAOS UK, performing live at The Station, Gateshead, UK, on February 23, 1985. 📸: Jenny Plaits

Source: www.picuki.com/media/3518048713659610753.

[iamdangerace]

Bodies piled on burning pyres No more war, no more crime People starved, tortured & murdered - Teenagers drafted to hang on barbed wire - Disfigured for life, if not death

[kb-p2730]

[alexadd77]

Anti-Cimex - Victims Of A Bomb Raid 1982-1984 -2018 Back On Black -U.K. Completo recopilatorio de portada gatefold y vinilo transparente con los tres Ep's de lAnti-Cimex complementado con el mini-Lp tengo la discografia de época de los suecos. #anticimex #hc #crust #dbeat #lp #punk #punkrock #33rpm #album #instavinyl #rock #vinylcollection #vinyljunkie #vinylrecords #album #vinylcollectionpost #recordcover #recordcollection #record #transparentvinyl #recordcollector #artwork #design https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgpvpz4MqYo/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[lordcarlisle]

The Fundraiser | Drabble

“I still don’t fully understand why we have to come to this, sir.” Detective Constable Andrew Phan pulled at his rented bowtie and shifted around in the equally just as rented suit. It was a size too big and was far too roomy in the shoulders. “Since when has rubbing shoulders with toffs been part of police work?”

Next to Andrew stood his superior, DCI James McIntyre. He was an older man with grey hair and tired but intelligent eyes. “Because, Phan,” he said, grazing the scene before them with his eyes. “The toffs are the ones to give us money for those lovely extras about the office that you so enjoy.” He shot a sideways glance at the DC, who had a pink tinge appearing around his ears. “Yes, don’t think I don’t notice how much time you spend at the fancy new coffee machine. I don’t know what’s wrong with a good cup of black coffee, but then again I suppose it’s a generational thing.” McIntyre took a deep breath as he readied himself. “Now, don’t stick to me for the rest of the night. Mingle. And that’s an order.”

Andrew mumbled an awkward “Yes, sir,” as the DCI walked over to a group of older men and women, who welcomed him as friends. Andrew shifted his eyes around the room and felt an impending sense of fear wash over him. He’d only been working with McIntyre’s team for a month now and was still feeling like a bit of an outsider. He swiped a flute of champagne from a passing tray and sipped at it cautiously. The last thing he wanted to happen at this thing was to make a fool of himself. Out of the corner of his eye, his attention was caught by the glint of the light off of a watch and his gaze was drawn to the back of a man across the room, slightly taller than Andrew was, who seemed to be very engaged in a conversation with an elegantly dressed older woman. She had her head thrown back in a regal laugh. There was a confidence and grace about this man that Andrew couldn’t help but envy. The conversation ended and the man turned around, sipping at his drink with a carefree smile on his face. 

Andrew almost choked on his champagne. 

The man was none other than his colleague, and McIntyre’s faithful Sergeant, Harry Carlisle. Andrew had never seen the man so relaxed and at ease, almost as if he was used to these upper-crust parties. He was one of the few people that Andrew worked with that he knew quite little about. Andrew knew that Carlisle was from Wales or had at least spent a long time there as his accent betrayed his connection to the Valleys, and he knew that the DS was quite close to the DCI’s family. After that, Andrew couldn’t say he knew a thing about the man.

The closed-off and professional Sergeant that Andrew worked with regularly was nowhere to be seen this night. Harry was chatting to anyone he passed, almost as if he’d known them for years. Andrew thought he couldn’t be any more surprised, but when Harry shook hands with a rather large man, who appeared to be the former Chief of Staff for the Prime Minister, as if they were the best and oldest of friends, he felt as though he might need to sit down. He managed to find an abandoned chair at an empty table and sunk down heavily onto the plush padding. He sat in silence for some time, trying to think of why Carlisle seemed to fit so easily with the toffs around him. When the chair next to him was pulled out from the table sometime later, Andrew straightened up to greet the other. He had hoped it would be McIntyre so that he could question the man about his sergeant, but unfortunately, it was the Sargent himself who took up a pew and set down his glass on the table. 

Harry Carlisle was looking at Andrew with a slightly amused smile on his lips. In the moments’ silence between them, Andrew raked his eyes over the other man to take in every detail. Harry’s suit was clearly expensive and fit him like a glove as if it had been tailored specifically for him; the watch strapped around his wrist flashed once again in the light and Andrew was shocked to see that it was-... yes, that definitely was a Patek Philipe. It probably cost more than Andrew’s flat rent for a whole year. The DS’s hair was perfectly styled and his shirt was whiter than anything. Andrew felt like he’d dropped into the Twilight Zone. Andrew shook out of his reverie as Harry managed to produce another glass of bubbly seemingly from thin air and place it in front of the younger man.

“You look as though you need it,” Harry said. “James bringing you to one of these things is like Baptism by fire.”

Even his voice was different, Andrew noticed. The slight Welsh burr was almost completely gone and he sounded posher than the Queen. 

“I’m-...” he started. “Uh...thanks.” He took a sip before he could stop himself from just coming out with it. “I’m sorry, I’m just surprised. I wasn’t expecting to see you here, especially like this. You’re just so…” he trailed off.

“Posh?” Harry offered, his little smile still on his face. “You don’t have to be embarrassed to say it, Phan.”

“I just thought you were, I don’t know, more like the DCI.”

“Old school London cop? I’m only a few years older than you.”

“Sorry. I just never really thought…” He swallowed the last of his drink. “Why...are you posh? Can I ask that? It seems rude to ask that.” 

Harry laughed and shook his head. “You can ask.” He leaned forward in his chair slightly and held up one of his hands. A gold signet ring glinted on his littlest finger, with an intricate crest carved into its face. 

“My line is one of the old families of the U.K. Posh, upper crust, landed gentry. Take your pick. I only moved away from our estate because of work. Once the line is passed on to be I’ll become ‘Lord Carlisle’. Rather stuffy sounding, don’t you think?” He smiled. “While you’re here representing the Met, I’m representing my family and our good name. I know most of the people who are a part of this whole thing.”

Andrew stuttered over his words for a moment. He suddenly felt as if he should address the other man more formally now. What did you call the son of a lord?. “And him? You know him?” He nodded his head in the direction of the portly man from before, who was now perusing a tray of canapés. 

“Who, Milton?” Harry followed the younger’s gaze. “Oh, he’s good friends with my father, and his son and I went to boarding school together.” He directed his attention back to Andrew, reaching out to clap him on the shoulder as he stood up. “But that’s not what’s important here,” he said, picking up his glass. “I believe that young Lady Tara over there has been eyeing you up.” He directed Andrew’s attention towards a young but severe-looking blonde woman in a shimmering evening gown. “Good luck, Phan. She’s...a handful.”

And with a grin, Harry was gone. Probably off to talk to a cabinet minister about polo and horse racing or whatever it was that rich people talked about. Andrew, still slightly stunned from his discovery, weakly tried to straighten his bowtie before looking over at the woman. Well, he supposed, a little dip into the pool of the wealthy couldn’t hurt.

[omegaradiowusb]

JUNE 30, 2021 (#270)

Aus Rotten: “Fuck Nazi Sympathy” Tempe SS: “Eskimo Brothers” Ratface: “Fukushima Nightmare” Drug Lust: “Switchblade” Isotope: “Phoenix Ashes” Activations: “Radio On / Attack” Cold Feet: “Good Book” Die Kreuzen: “Hate Me” Disorder: “Drop The Bomb” Enzyme: “Howling Wind” F Minus: “Rise To Power” Blitz: “Fight To Live” Gag: “High Off Gun Powder” Haram: “Where Were You On 9/11?” Honeywell: “You And Me Screaming / Numb Ears” Impulso: “Ombre” Nobodys: “Sara Doesn’t Like Me” Lifelock: “Indiscriminately Kill” Provoke: ”Basura” Reality Complex: “Void You Out” Stud Count: “That’s How I Get It” Torso: “Grab A Shovel” Toxic Narcotic: “We’re All Doomed” Gism: ”Endless Blockade For Pussyfooter” Wargames: “Violent And Depressed” Shitlickers: “Sprackta Snutskallar” Nihilistics: “Appreciation” YDI: “Out For Blood” Negative Approach: “Tied Down” Heresy: “Never Healed” Anti-Cimex: “Victims Of A Bombraid” Kuro: “Dead Heat 10000v” Comes, The: “Panic” Totalitar: “Vi Ar Eliten” Cause For Alarm: “Second Chance” Coke Bust: “Red Line” Bad Breeding: “Exiled” Fix, The: “Cos The Elite” Anxiety: “Dark And Wet” Rut: “Glare” Sub-Legals: “Another One Bites The Dust” Gutter Knife: “Boots On The Ground” Compa: “Antes Que Yo” Crisis Man: “Excommunicated” Oily Boys: “Cabramaverick” Cult Values: “Nothing Here But Ghosts” D7Y: “Klukkan Telur Niour” Kaleidoscope: “Deaths Of Despair” S-21: “Joke’s On You” Blood Loss: “Disgust” Buggy: “Why Be Something That You’re Not” Duckis: “Squeal” Pure Disgust: “Clown” Mystique: “A Woman Has No Country” Slavescene: “Hold Me Nude” Easy Action: “Twenty-One” Foster Care: “No Respect” Perra Vida: “Dime Que No” Gauze: “Low Charge” Fatal State: “Trigger Warning” Bread And Water: “Keep Walking” Exploited, The: “I Hate You” City Of Industry: “Equinox” C.H.E.W.: “Repeat Offenders” Chain Hex: “Final Gasp” Moribund: “No More Birds” Avon Ladies: “Power Failure” Leather Slave: “Eyeball Bird Food” Denim & Leather: “Picture Of A Dog” Regional Justice Center: Medication” Gag Order: “So Smug So Sure: Krigshoder: “Ditt Eget Stalingrad / Hatet” Laughing Hyenas: “Black-Eyed Susan” Lubricant: “Bastards” Drug Victim: “Peace” Drunkdriver: “Warm On The Inside” Discharge: “State Violence State Control” (RMX) Plastics: “Lovers” Cloud Rat: “Delayed Grief / Farmhouse” School Drugs: “Not Alone” Bato: “Monotony” JJ Doll: “You Come First” Glue: “Disgrace” Raw Power: “State Oppression” Deformity: “Shards” Chaos U.K.: “Control” Acrylics: “Retreat” Armor: “Figure” Charles Bronson: “Obligatory Jock Slaughter Song” Blood Pressure: “Futility” Candy Apple: “Bloodsong” Arms Race: “Zealot” D.R.I.: “I Don’t Need Security” Seeker, The: Bring Me The Head Of Benny Mussolini” Slimy Member: “Nightmare World” Slant: “Dry Heave” Korrosive: “Institute”

Thrash, stud, crust, d-beat, speed, and scumbag punk. You name it, we got it. Omega Radio goes all-in on loud, fast, and hard with three hours of everything punk from the U.S.A., U.K., Japan, Sweden, South America, Europe, and around the world. It’s a brutal onslaught of head-on violence and destruction guaranteed to get all engines going. At 97 tracks, we also break the record for the most songs played in any broadcast we’ve ever done to date.

Omega returns for a double deluxe hip-hop and street broadcast for the 4th of July weekend. We hope you’ll join us, and thank you for listening.

July 3, 2021 (8PM New York City): double deluxe Omega

July 14, 2021 (12AM New York City): bonus Omega

July 17, 2021 (10PM New York City): deluxe Omega

July 28, 2021 (12AM New York City): bonus Omega

July 31, 2021 (10PM New York City): deluxe Omega

[freyadeffell59]

Weed And Wisdom, The Very Cannabis Quotes

Colorado City CBD Review - http://coloradocitycbd.net/.

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[kipperclothiers]

For Shorter Men & Women Who Like Menswear: Our Guide to Small-Size Shoes

While you can wear a suit with sneakers in some instances, situations like a job interview, wedding, or client presentation call for a polished, more traditional appearance. For the average male – roughly 5 ft., 9 in. and around 170 lbs. – finding a dress shoe isn’t a challenge. You stop at the mall, browse online, or, if you’re cash strapped, hunt down an un-scuffed pair at your local consignment shop. In all cases, you expect to find something in your size.

But, what if you’re under 5 ft., 6 in.? Or, you have small feet that feel loose in a size 6? Or, you’re a smaller-sized female with a penchant for actual menswear styles – and those menswear-inspired ones feel too frilly? Unfortunately, you’re stuck: Too small for adult sizes, wanting to avoid anything traditionally feminine, and too large for the kids’ department, you’re in that grey zone where, frankly, nothing fits.

So, what do you do? Suit up and wear all-black Converse high-tops, hoping no one notices? Suck it up and look for a kids’ shoe that’s not-quite-so childish? Or, do you relent, and compromise with a jaunt through the women’s section? The answer is – none of these. We’re here to tell you that, yes, you can find shoes in your size, without compromising your personal style.

Unsure about your foot’s exact measurements? Start with this measuring guide before you shop around.

Our focus here is primarily dress shoes – or whatever you can wear with a suit. On the other hand, if you’re in the grey zone, your shoe collection is – to excuse the pun – fairly small. Maybe two or three pairs, if you’re lucky.

Where do you begin for everyday wear? In this case, any unisex brand is best. Think skate shoes by Vans, low- and high-tops in neutral shades from Converse, Dr. Martens’ boots, and styles from Palladium. For “comfort” shoes, Oofos goes under a size 6, while Clarks hits right at this line.

And, if you see no shame in everyday athleisure, Nike makes men’s sneakers down to a size 4, as does New Balance.

Shopping Online

On the department store end, Nordstrom is frequently cited as a place to find smaller-size men’s dress shoes. Of the brands you’ll find below shortly, Grenson and Saint Laurent are available through their online store. Yet, in terms of variety, you can’t beat Zappos. Although their selection of men’s 4 and 4.5 sizes yields mostly casual options, you’ll find an occasional gem: For instance, a pair of Y-3s or a set of Wolverine Heritage boots.

For dress shoes, though, you’ve got to look past the predictable choices. For instance, Stravers – the Amsterdam-based retailer with a world-renowned brick-and-mortar store – prides itself on going to extremes. More specifically, a customer will find more than a smattering of both big-and-tall and small sizes. For the latter, your selection runs typical – think brogues, lace-up ankle boots, and oxfords in brown, tan, and black hues – and less so, with patent leather and blue alligator skin being some of the standouts.

For more technical styles, there’s BootBay.com. Born in east Tennessee in the early ‘80s, it’s another sought-after small-size retailer, with a product selection primarily covering work, hiking, and casual boots. While it’s not directly dress-shoe oriented, we all need a sturdy pair to get through the winter. As such, here you’ll find slip-resistant, moisture-wicking, and cushioned options.

Florsheim

Yes, they’ve garnered a reputation as your parents’ (and even grandparents’) shoe store, but this Chicago-originating brand has stuck around for a few reasons. One, you’ll have no trouble getting your basics – oxfords, brogues, chukka boots, and monk strap styles, with the occasional cap or wingtip detail – but its stores continue to stock more fashion-forward fare.

Case in point, at the start of the menswear craze, they partnered with Duckie Brown in 2010 to revamp some of their classic silhouettes, and five years later, they collaborated with George Esquivel on a California-influenced collection. Then, two years ago, they introduced a vintage collection, offering modern takes on their original line.

Recommendations

Richfield Moc Toe Strap Loafer ($100): All-around smooth, except for the slightly angular toe and braided detail, these loafers embody classic simplicity. Pair them with a full suit or chinos and a blazer, and in either instance, their versatile, lightly cushioned design takes you everywhere.

Como Moc Toe Strap Loafer ($110): With a name alluding to Italian construction, this hand-stitched, kidskin loafer is all about the details, from the top strap and burnishing to rich yet not overbearing burgundy undertones.

Grenson

Menswear has been on a heritage kick, and Grenson fits right in. Although sizing ends at a men’s size 6, their traditional handmade designs make your search worth it. Plus, they’re one brand with a decent women’s selection featuring some unisex-leaning designs. Added to this, their versatility and quality construction mean that whatever you choose – Chelsea and lace-up boots to oxfords, in suede or leather – will last – and last and last. If you’re thinking about building your wardrobe basics, start right here. As a note, U.K. sizing is used for all styles. Reference the brand’s conversion chart to select your size.

Recommendations

Ella Boots (Women’s, $345): Excluding summer’s hotter days, the dress boot delivers the prime combination of style and coverage. Grenson’s Ella cuts out those subtle feminine details, delivering a sturdy wingtip brogue made out of black calfskin leather that’s a sure match for your suit yet is still edgy enough for a pair of jeans.

Dylan Oxford Brogues (Men’s, $330): This traditional hand-painted leather oxford features a tan stain on top of its natural base color for a richer, multi-layered appearance. Best for matching with lighter-colored suits, its wing-tip design uses a slightly longer last than previous versions.

Paul Smith

You’ll recognize this British-based brand from Fashion Week presentations. And, much like the clothing we spotted recently, designs go either way – all while still feeling traditional. Whether you’re sporting navy or a multicolored oversized suit, pair it with brogues, loafers, lace-up, or Chelsea boots, in standard leather or nubuck. As a note, the brand uses European sizing for all styles.

Recommendations

Munro Brogues (Women’s, $495): The hybrid dress shoe – leather upper with a sneaker-like sole unit – frequently looks cheap and awkward, but Paul Smith’s Munro hits the sweet spot with vegetable-tanned leather, wingtip details, and a flexible sole with extra padding by the ball.

Gerald Chelsea Boots (Men’s, $340): Now, this is how a Chelsea boot should be: Smooth all around, from the material to the almond toe, with a fit that easily slides on. It’s ready for your suit and also adds that sophisticated rocker touch to denim and patterned pants.

Frye

Another American-based brand, Frye hasn’t quite reached heritage status, but their sheer variety – including women’s and men’s styles – definitely impresses us. Pretty much, if you’re looking to build a basic shoe collection from the ground up, you’ll come across oxfords and lace-up boots, as well as a decent, non-statement-making pair of sneakers.

Recommendations

Western Chelsea Boots (Women’s, $358): Not every dress shoe has to be super-traditional, and this music-inspired style – part of a brand collaboration with Cage the Elephant’s Matt Shultz – blends a Chelsea height and Italian leather with cowboy boot elements, like a pitched heel and stitching details.

Grady Jodhpur Boots (Men’s, $398): The jodhpur boot rarely gets enough love from the dress shoe world, we have to admit. Frye’s take definitely leans more toward casual, with its distressed, matte-finished suede and thinner, strap-accented silhouette. It presents a more laid-back version of the Chelsea boot that flows seamlessly from dressier fare to denim.

G.H. Bass & Co.

While you likely associate G.H. Bass & Co. with plaid button-ups and fleece, it’s an American heritage brand in its own right – the maker of the original penny loafer. Although, in a modern setting, the style’s a bit preppy, it’s one of those staples that’s a natural match for your chinos in a pinch. Slip on something smart casual in a range of colors and materials.

Recommendations

Whitney Mirror Metallic Weejuns (Women’s, $120): Traditional construction – a “penny slot,” stitched moc toe, and a slip-on silhouette – meet up with modern statement elements. The result bridges dressy-casual territory with red carpet-worthy style that works with your suit and pretty much the rest of your wardrobe.

Lincoln Lizard Weejuns (Men’s, $120): As another statement shoe, the Lincoln Lizard brings that oomph with lizard stamp burnished crust leather and a chain detail across the top. It’s one of those styles that manages to be current yet classic and formal without feeling overly traditional.

Saint Laurent

While Hedi Slimane’s since left for Celine, his mod rocker-influenced looks left an impression on this seminal French brand. As such, while critics have been mixed on Slimane’s vision for Celine, they can’t deny he ushered in a new era for Saint Laurent – one of thinner, more androgynous silhouettes that are ready for the boardroom yet have enough punch for an all-nighter in New York. And, as a bonus, you’ll find men’s casual and dress options down to a size 5.

Recommendations

Miles Boots (Men’s and Women’s, $1,195): This unisex-styled boot precisely embodies the post-Slimane Saint Laurent brand, from its thin profile and carefully chosen buckle detail to its clean lines and light hand-distressing.

Laced Army Boots in Kangaroo-Look Leather (Men’s, $1,095): A slightly matte and smooth lace-up upper and a low heel give these boots a light dash of military style. Yet, if you’re going to spend top-dollar on a pair of dress boots, they should also grant you the most mileage, and that’s precisely what this style does, matching everything from intricate printed suits to skinny jeans.

Church’s

Luxury, high-fashion brands aside, this is your apex. High-quality traditional designs – with the occasional trendy piece, like a military-influenced or two-tone boot – define the “cost per wear” concept. You’ll find all the usual suspects – brogues, oxfords, derbies, monk straps, and a range of boot silhouettes – in versatile shades of tan, brown, and black, complete with details in key places. While this English-based brand originally started as a family business, expansion resulted in brick-and-mortar stores throughout Europe, plus a partnership with Prada. In the U.S., you can find them through Saks, as well as through other luxury retailers like Mr. Porter and Farfetch. 

Recommendations

Westerham Oxford (Men’s, $560): It’s quite literally the smoothest oxford you’ll find around, from the blind eyelets to the finished calf leather. Goodyear construction ensures it’ll give you more than a few years’ use, while the cap toe adds an elegant yet neutral finish.

Bessy Buckle Chelsea Boot (Women’s, $814): Masculine and feminine elements fluidly merge in what feels like a true either-or boot. A block heel and buckle strap give it a touch of flair, while the mid-height and finished calf leather elevate it above the typical fashion boot.

Sutro Footwear

Based in San Francisco, Sutro has strived to create a reasonably priced shoe that you’ll wear frequently and that also uses a smaller carbon footprint. To do this, the company works with artisans in Mexico to craft each pair, while the leather, from free-range, U.S.-based cattle, is tanned without chemicals. Instead, natural oils and creams bring out the material’s beauty and highlight its individuality.

Within this approach, craftsmanship remains paramount. Shoes – men’s and women’s styles, with some unisex silhouettes tucked away – are constructed out of full-grain premium leathers, with minimal finishing. For this reason, styles appear simple – lace-up and Chelsea boots, oxfords, and a handful of heeled styles – yet are made to hold up to everyday wear.

Recommendations

Vermont Boots (Unisex, $218): At a glance, can you tell this is a “comfort” shoe? From the leather to the stacked outsole, it deceptively looks like any other dress boot. Yet, this unisex shoe based on Sutro’s best-selling Alder has a few tricks up its sleeve: Mainly, ultra-sturdy Goodyear Welt construction and rubber placed at key pressure points for extra support.

Mendelle Lace-Up Boots (Women’s, $188): Utilitarian details characterize many of Sutro’s styles, and here, the taller height, seven-eyelet front, and smooth, rounded toe give off subtle workwear vibes. Yet, ultra-rugged and clunky, they’re not, and that burnished, straightforward upper makes for a solid, three-season dress boot.

Shoepassion

Don’t be put off by the name. We know it seems like a cheesy, fast-footwear ecommerce site, but behind it is handcrafted, meticulous production and some of the finest materials you’ll find around. Designed in Berlin and manufactured in Spain, this brand utilizes Goodyear-welted construction – known for superior strength in work boots – and breathable, French-tanned leathers. Although far from inexpensive, the price justifies itself: For men’s and menswear-styled women’s shoes, the durability and versatile silhouettes are meant to last you years.

N° 5225 Oxfords (Men’s, $385): It’s all in the color. Warm, almost fiery brandy tones – created through a vegetable tanning process – pop without seeming overpowering. A hand finish, applied to soft calf leather, gives it a gradient effect and elegant shine.

N° 275 (Women’s, $465): While these could’ve been an ordinary dress boots, the wing tips and other details reminiscent of a British derby certainly elevate it. Yet, there’s still something rugged about it: Beyond just the Goodyear-welt construction, a taller height, slightly lugged outsole, and seven pairs of eyelets, although decorative, have an old-school work boot vibe.

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Here at Kipper, we know a suit’s not complete without the right accessories. If, as a person with smaller-size feet, you’ve come across another high-quality shoe brand, tell us about it on our social channels!

[savage-kult-of-gorthaur]

BELTING OUT THE MOST CRUCIAL ANARCHO THRASH OF THE ENTIRE DECADE -- TOTAL CHAOS.

PIC(S) INFO: Mega spotlight on rare shots of Bristol UK punk rock/anarcho thrash/UK82 band CHAOS U.K., performing live in Nottingham, UK, c. April 1983. 📸: Jenny Peers.

Source: www.picuki.com/media/1695075694273863137.