#Textile Industrial News

[ilona-mushroom]

Stop throwing away your clothes, yes even if you’re donating. Most donations don’t end up selling and instead are just thrown away. Nature, people, and local economies in different parts of world suffer. The answer to stop throwing away clothes because you have too much is to stop buying so much clothes. Trust me, you don’t need that fifth blazer.

[sentimental-obsessions]

[arctic-hands]

rip in peace calvin klein plain white all cotton mens t-shirts I got as a gift like 8 years ago that are super comfy and just the right thickness and are only just now starting to become threadbare and stained but I am not paying thirty-five dollars for 3 new plain white tees that were probably also made in the same factory as the 6 pack of hanes cotton plain white tees I bought by overseas laborers for slave wages

[bopinion]

2022 / 52

Aperçu of the Week:

"Let he who is without sin among you be the first to cast a stone at her."

(Jesus Christ according to John, chapter 8)

Bad News of the Week:

A remarkable shift to the right is currently taking place in Israel, of all places. And not in dim backyards, but in the political spotlight. The day before yesterday, the Knesset gave its blessing to Benjamin Netanyahu's government. An immortal reincarnation of political Israel, he became prime minister for the first time back in 1996 and is the subject of various criminal proceedings, including those for corruption and taking advantage of office.

Now, out of pure will to survive, he has formed a governing coalition that is so ultra-right that even Israeli President Yitzchak Herzog warns against its "extremism." And the opposition is sounding the alarm in view of the present coalition agreements: The new government is illiberal, homophobic and is undermining Israeli democracy with the planned judicial reform. Unfortunately, these accusations must be taken seriously.

Take religious fanaticism, for example: Government member Orit Strock of the right-wing "Religious Zionist Party" has declared that hotels should be allowed to refuse services to people on religious grounds. And even worse, doctors to treat patients if this is against their religious beliefs. This is supposed to be the most democratic state in the Middle East?

Speaking of states. Or rather, the two-state solution, for every normal-thinking person the only way to make peace possible between Israelis and Palestinians in the long term. That can now be safely stored, because gasoline is being poured on the fire with two personalities who both advocate the expansion of Israeli territory into the occupied West Bank. Itamar Ben-Gvir of the ultranationalist "Jewish Strenght" party, who has already been convicted of anti-Arab terrorism, will become security minister with responsibilities for the police. And Bezalel Smotrich, leader of the "Religious Zionist Party" and known, among other things, for his position "I am a proud homophobe." will be finance minister with control over "planning in the West Bank." He knows his stuff, after all his family lives outside the Kedumim settlement in the West Bank - in a house that was illegally built outside of state land and in breach of the settlement's master plan.

I find this more than just creepy. Do I, of all people, as a German, have to reproach a government of the State of Israel for denying human rights to a part of the population through extremism and discrimination? Yes, unfortunately I must.

Good News of the Week:

After a long run-up, the so-called Supply Chain Act is finally becoming mandatory in Germany. Initially applicable to large companies (with more than 3,000 employees, from 2024 it will apply to companies with more than 1,000), it is intended to significantly reduce abuses in foreign purchasing. The "Act on Corporate Due Diligence in Supply Chains" obliges companies that procure intermediate goods or finished products abroad to take responsibility for production processes and working conditions at their suppliers, to trace abuses and to avoid or remedy them from the outset or as soon as they become aware of them.

This will be felt above all by the textile industry, which traditionally has its production carried out in low-wage countries with hardly any environmental requirements. And then washes its hands of this because the administrative staff in Germany is paid according to the collective wage agreement and there is a photovoltaic system on the warehouse. The law obliges every importer - including foreign companies that have a subsidiary or branch office in Germany - to ensure that defined standards are met throughout their supply chain. In future, anyone who tolerates child labor or environmental damage at their suppliers, for example, or simply looks the other way, will be asked to pay a hefty fine: Fines in the millions are envisaged. That's a good thing.

Personal happy moment of the week:

The day before yesterday was our first wedding anniversary. According to a widespread prejudice, only husbands forget this day. Not so with us. My wife had wondered before why I asked what we were going to do on this day. And although very happy about the flowers that were on the table in the morning, but still did not understand. Then around three o'clock in the afternoon the penny dropped. And I got it in writing, as she was just out for a walk: she says "Yes!" to us once again.

I couldn't care less...

...that Deutsche Post is discontinuing its "Telegram" service today. Why? Due to lack of demand, of course, because of the Internet. This means that some 170 years after the American E. P. Smith established the telegram in 1852, a form of communication long considered the fastest in the world is disappearing. The most recent price was at least 12.57 euros - for 160 characters. In the age of free messaging services, that no doubt explains the slump in demand. I even still have a telegram in one of my memory boxes in the basement: one of my French Canadian sisters had sent it to me from Italy in 1989 to coordinate my trip to see her - which I hitchhiked. Also such a dinosaur, which hardly exists anymore.

As I write this...

...2022 comes to an end. You can classify this year however you like - the adjective "normal" is certainly not one of them. And what people like to call "the new normal" (hot and cold wars, lack of action against climate change, threatened democracies, permanently higher energy and food prices, insecure human rights, etc.) is not something I feel like at all. In this respect, I find it hard to wish for more normality in the new year. Even if it is actually what I would like to have.

Post Scriptum

Serbia and Kosovo. The region in the Balkans, which even after the official end of the Yugoslav wars in 2001 is still not at peace. NATO peacekeepers are still stationed there today. The reason is still the same as it was from the beginning: minorities feel oppressed. In this case, in a double sense: Kosovo considers itself Albanian, its minority oppressed by Serbia, and has repeatedly declared its independence - now recognized by 115 of 193 UN members. But Serbia sees Kosovo as a breakaway province where a Serbian minority in the north is oppressed. The conflict flares up again and again; during the Christmas season, there were roadblocks in the Mitrovica area in response to Serb arrests by Albanian security forces.

Both countries see their future in the European Union. Serbia has been formally recognized as a candidate country since 2012, while Kosovo submitted its application only this December. And both can only move forward in this process together. In order to be admitted to the EU, the "Copenhagen criteria" must be met. These explicitly include respect for and protection of minorities. This is precisely the shortcoming that Serbia and Kosovo are accusing each other of. The European Union sees itself as a democratic entity that seeks to achieve peace and prosperity on the continent through cooperation and collaboration. Recognizing this would be a win-win for all parties.

[newbusinessideas]

10 Best Business Ideas in Textile Industry

Hey there! Ever wondered how you can make big bucks in the textile world? 🧵💰 Check out the "Top 10 Profitable Business Ideas in the Textile Industry"! Follow us for more insights and tips! 🌟 #TextileBusiness #EntrepreneurLife #ViralIdeas #Businessideas

The textile industry stands as one of the oldest and most crucial sectors in the world economy, serving as a significant source of employment and contributing substantially to global trade. With advancements in technology and evolving consumer preferences, the textile industry continues to offer numerous profitable business opportunities for entrepreneurs. A textile business can be a great way to…

[apparelresources]

Textile Trade News

Keep updated with the newest textile trade news is crucial for industry specialists to navigate the dynamic market landscape. This news covers trends, regulatory changes, and inventions in the textile industry, providing valuable insights for strategic planning and decision-making. For the most important and up-to-date textile trade news, visit apparel resources.com. This site offers in-depth reporting and expert analysis, ensuring you stay informed about key developments in the textile trade.

If you want more info… click on given link

Here are some information of Apparel Resources pvt. Ltd.

Address: - B-32, South Extension I, Block B, New Delhi, Delhi 110049

Email-Id: - contact@apparelresources.com

Contact No.:- +91-7982048042

[textile-industry-magazine]

Apparel, Clothing, Garment, Textile | Industry News Updates.

One Source for Apparel Views, News, Trends, Innovations & Technology updates in the Apparel, Clothing, Garment, Textile Industry Articles. - Garment Industry News

[catcheyes-t-shirt]

Bangladesh World’s Second Largest Textile Manufacturer

Current Scenario of Textile Exports in Bangladesh

The emerging garment manufacturing hub of the world, Bangladesh, is manufacturing 16% of the world's garment needs. In garment manufacturing, it stands second in the world after China, and it has surpassed the growth of the textile industry in India. In the year, this small country has exported garments worth $35.8 billion. In Bangladesh's textile industry, 61% of the exports are directed toward the European Union, and 21% of the total exports are directed toward the United States of America. Bangladesh's sole concentration right now is on the textile sector. As we can see 80% of the export comprises textile products. 

Contribution of Bangladesh Textile Industry to Domestic Growth

The textile industry in Bangladesh is contributing a lot to the growth of this country. This sector appoints ten million people in Bangladesh out of the total population. The growth of Bangladesh's textile sector has also contributed to the growth of banking, transportation, ports, and other sectors. In South Asia, the highest number of factories is in Bangladesh, which has 4500 factories. The country, which is as big as Gujarat, has set a target of $100 billion worth of garment production by the year 2030. When we look back and calculate the time that it took to achieve $35 billion worth of exports, it just happened in 4 decades. 

Apart from garment manufacturing, Bangladesh is also ahead in yarn manufacturing. Bangladesh is able to meet their 90% of the knitted yarn requirement and 40% of the woven yarn requirement. Out of the total GDP, the contribution of the textile sector is 13%, and the textile sector generates 75% of the employment in manufacturing. Today, garment manufacturing hubs in India, like t-shirt manufacturers in Tirupur, kurti manufacturers in Jaipur, saree manufacturers in Surat, and other garment manufacturing hubs, should take inspiration from Bangladesh.

[fibre2fashion]

Unlocking the Unique Value Proposition of F2F Prime Content in the Textile and Apparel Industry

In an era defined by rapid technological advancements and ever-evolving consumer preferences, staying ahead of the curve is imperative for success in the textile and apparel sector. F2F Prime Content stands out as a pioneering platform, offering a range of unparalleled features that set it apart from traditional industry resources. Let's explore the distinctive elements that make F2F Prime Content an indispensable asset, redefining the landscape of textile and apparel intelligence and insights.

Immediate Access to Industry Insights

Central to the value of F2F Prime Content is its commitment to providing immediate and comprehensive access to critical industry insights. By delivering exclusive and timely updates on the latest developments and trends, F2F Prime Content empowers industry professionals to make informed decisions and seize opportunities before they become common knowledge. This invaluable access to real-time information serves as a strategic advantage, enabling subscribers to stay ahead of competitors and adapt to changing market dynamics with confidence.

Read more:-

[reasonsforhope]

It’s an open secret in fashion. Unsold inventory goes to the incinerator; excess handbags are slashed so they can’t be resold; perfectly usable products are sent to the landfill to avoid discounts and flash sales. The European Union wants to put an end to these unsustainable practices. On Monday, [December 4, 2023], it banned the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear.

“It is time to end the model of ‘take, make, dispose’ that is so harmful to our planet, our health and our economy,” MEP Alessandra Moretti said in a statement. “Banning the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear will contribute to a shift in the way fast fashion manufacturers produce their goods.”

This comes as part of a broader push to tighten sustainable fashion legislation, with new policies around ecodesign, greenwashing and textile waste phasing in over the next few years. The ban on destroying unsold goods will be among the longer lead times: large businesses have two years to comply, and SMEs have been granted up to six years. It’s not yet clear on whether the ban applies to companies headquartered in the EU, or any that operate there, as well as how this ban might impact regions outside of Europe.

For many, this is a welcome decision that indirectly tackles the controversial topics of overproduction and degrowth. Policymakers may not be directly telling brands to produce less, or placing limits on how many units they can make each year, but they are penalising those overproducing, which is a step in the right direction, says Eco-Age sustainability consultant Philippa Grogan. “This has been a dirty secret of the fashion industry for so long. The ban won’t end overproduction on its own, but hopefully it will compel brands to be better organised, more responsible and less greedy.”

Clarifications to come

There are some kinks to iron out, says Scott Lipinski, CEO of Fashion Council Germany and the European Fashion Alliance (EFA). The EFA is calling on the EU to clarify what it means by both “unsold goods” and “destruction”. Unsold goods, to the EFA, mean they are fit for consumption or sale (excluding counterfeits, samples or prototypes)...

The question of what happens to these unsold goods if they are not destroyed is yet to be answered. “Will they be shipped around the world? Will they be reused as deadstock or shredded and downcycled? Will outlet stores have an abundance of stock to sell?” asks Grogan.

Large companies will also have to disclose how many unsold consumer products they discard each year and why, a rule the EU is hoping will curb overproduction and destruction...

Could this shift supply chains?

For Dio Kurazawa, founder of sustainable fashion consultancy The Bear Scouts, this is an opportunity for brands to increase supply chain agility and wean themselves off the wholesale model so many rely on. “This is the time to get behind innovations like pre-order and on-demand manufacturing,” he says. “It’s a chance for brands to play with AI to understand the future of forecasting. Technology can help brands be more intentional with what they make, so they have less unsold goods in the first place.”

Grogan is equally optimistic about what this could mean for sustainable fashion in general. “It’s great to see that this is more ambitious than the EU’s original proposal and that it specifically calls out textiles. It demonstrates a willingness from policymakers to create a more robust system,” she says. “Banning the destruction of unsold goods might make brands rethink their production models and possibly better forecast their collections.”

One of the outstanding questions is over enforcement. Time and again, brands have used the lack of supply chain transparency in fashion as an excuse for bad behaviour. Part of the challenge with the EU’s new ban will be proving that brands are destroying unsold goods, not to mention how they’re doing it and to what extent, says Kurazawa. “Someone obviously knows what is happening and where, but will the EU?”"

-via British Vogue, December 7, 2023

[missjhenz]

Philippines Apparel Textile Show & Philippines Sport Show and Asia International E-commerce Expo: Industry Event Generates New Momentum for Trade

Philippines Apparel Textile Show & Philippines Sport Show and Asia International E-commerce Expo will be held from October 5 to 7, 2023 at SMX Convention Center in Manila, Philippines.   Cosponsored by China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles, Huiyuan International Exhibition Co., Ltd (Huiyuan Culture Group), and local exhibition institutions in the Philippines, this show aims…

[mostlysignssomeportents]

A profoundly stupid case about video game cheating could transform adblocking into a copyright infringement

I'm coming to DEFCON! On Aug 9, I'm emceeing the EFF POKER TOURNAMENT (noon at the Horseshoe Poker Room), and appearing on the BRICKED AND ABANDONED panel (5PM, LVCC - L1 - HW1–11–01). On Aug 10, I'm giving a keynote called "DISENSHITTIFY OR DIE! How hackers can seize the means of computation and build a new, good internet that is hardened against our asshole bosses' insatiable horniness for enshittification" (noon, LVCC - L1 - HW1–11–01).

Here's a weird consequence of our societal shift from capitalism (where riches come from profits) to feudalism (where riches come from rents): increasingly, your rights to your actual property (the physical stuff you own) are trumped by corporations' metaphorical "intellectual property" claims.

That's a lot to unpack! Let's start with a quick primer on profits and rents. Capitalists invest money in buying equipment, then they pay workers wages to use that equipment to produce goods and services. Profit is the sum a capitalist takes home from this arrangement: money made from paying workers to do productive things.

Now, rents: "rent" is the money a rentier makes by owning a "factor of production": something the capitalist needs in order to make profits. Capitalists risk their capital to get profits, but rents are heavily insulated from risk.

For example: a coffee shop owner buys espresso machines, hires baristas, and rents a storefront. If they do well, the landlord can raise their rent, denying them profits and increasing rents. But! If a great new cafe opens across the street and the coffee shop owner goes broke, the landlord is in great shape, because they now have a vacant storefront they can rent, and they can charge extra for a prime location across the street from the hottest new coffee shop in town.

The "moral philosophers" that today's self-described capitalists claim to worship – Adam Smith, David Ricardo – hated rents. For them, profits were the moral way to get rich, because when capitalists chase profits, they necessarily chase the production of things that people want.

When rentiers chase rents, they do so at the expense of profits. Every dollar a capitalist pays in rent – licenses for IP, rent for a building, etc – is a dollar that can't be extracted in profit, and then reinvested in the production of more goods and services that society desires.

The "free markets" of Adam Smith weren't free from regulation, they were free from rents.

The moral philosophers' hatred of rents was really a hatred of feudalism. The industrial revolution wasn't merely (or even primarily) the triumph of new machines: rather, it was the triumph of profits over rent. For the industrial revolution to succeed, the feudal arrangement had to end. Capitalism is incompatible with hereditary lords receiving guaranteed rents from hereditary serfs who are legally obliged to work for them. Capitalism triumphed over feudalism when the serfs were turned off of the land (becoming the "free labor" who went to work in the textile mills) and the land itself was given over to sheep grazing (providing the wool for those same mills).

But that doesn't mean that the industrial revolution invented profits. Profits were to be found in feudal societies, wherever a wealthy person increased their wealth by investing in machines and hiring workers to use them. The thing that made feudalism feudal was how conflicts between rents and profits cashed out. For so long as the legal system elevated the claims of rentiers over the claims of capitalists, the society was feudal. Once the legal system gave priority to profit over rent, it became capitalist.

Capitalists hate capitalism. The engine of capitalism is insecurity. The successful capitalist is like the fastest gun in the old west: there's always a young gun out there looking to "disrupt" their fortune with a new invention, product, or organizational strategy that "creatively destroys" the successful businesses of the day and replaces them with new ones:

https://locusmag.com/2024/03/cory-doctorow-capitalists-hate-capitalism/

That's a hard way to live, with your every success serving as a blinking KICK ME sign visible to every ambitious person in the world. Precarity makes people miserable and nuts:

https://pluralistic.net/2024/04/19/make-them-afraid/#fear-is-their-mind-killer

So capitalists universally aspire to become rentiers and investors seek out companies that have a plan to extract rent. This is why Warren Buffett is so priapatic for companies with "moats and walls" – legal privileges and market structures that protect the business from competition and disruption:

https://finance.yahoo.com/news/warren-buffett-explains-moat-principle-164442359.html

Feudal rents were mostly derived from land, but even in the feudal era, the king was known to reward loyal lickspittles with rents over ideas. The "patents royal" were the legally protected right to decide who could make or do certain things: for example, you might have a patent royal over the production of silver ribbon, and anyone who wanted to make a silver ribbon would have to pay for your permission. If you chose to grant that permission exclusively to one manufacturer, then no one else could make it, and you could charge a license fee to the manufacturer that accounted for nearly all their profit.

Today, rentiers are also interested in land. Bill Gates is the country's number one landowner, and in many towns, private equity landlords are snappinig up every single family home that hits the market and converting it to a badly maintained slum:

https://pluralistic.net/2024/05/22/koteswar-jay-gajavelli/#if-you-ever-go-to-houston

But the 21st Century's defining source of rent is "IP" – a controversial term that I use here to mean, "Any law or policy that allows a company to exert legal control over its competitors, critics and customers":

https://locusmag.com/2020/09/cory-doctorow-ip/

IP is in irreconcilable conflict with real property rights. Think of HP selling you a printer and wanting to decide which ink you use, or John Deere selling you a tractor and wanting to tell you who can fix it. Or, for that matter, Apple selling you a phone and dictating which software you are allowed to install on it.

Think of Unity, a company that makes tools for video-game makers, demanding a royalty from every game that is eventually sold, calling this "shared success":

https://pluralistic.net/2023/10/03/not-feeling-lucky/#fundamental-laws-of-economics

Every time one of these conflicts ends with IP's triumph over real property rights, that is a notch in favor of calling the world we live in now "technofeudalist" rather than "technocapitalist":

https://pluralistic.net/2023/09/28/cloudalists/#cloud-capital

Once you start to think of "IP" as "laws that let me control how other people use their real property," a lot of the seemingly incoherent fights over IP snap into place. This also goes a long way to explaining how otherwise sensible people can agree on expansions of IP to achieve some short-term goal, irrespective of the spillover harms from such a move. Hard cases make bad law, and hard IP cases make terrible law.

Five years ago, some anti-fascist counterdemonstrators hit on the clever idea of blaring top 40 music during neo-Nazi marches, on the theory that this would prevent Nazis from uploading videos of their marches to Youtube and other platforms, whose filters would block any footage that included copyrighted music:

https://memex.craphound.com/2019/07/23/clever-hack-that-will-end-badly-playing-copyrighted-music-during-nazis-rallies-so-they-cant-be-posted-to-youtube/

Thankfully, this didn't work, but not for lack of trying. And it might still work, if calls for beefing up video copyright filters are heeded. Cops all over the place are already blaring Taylor Swift songs and Disney tunes to prevent their interactions with the public from being uploaded:

https://pluralistic.net/2022/04/07/moral-hazard-of-filternets/#dmas

The same thinking that causes progressives to recklessly argue in favor of upload filters also causes them to demand that web scraping be treated as a copyright crime. They think they're creating a world where AI companies can't rip off their creation to train a model; they're actually creating a world where the Internet Archive can't capture JD Vance's embarrassing old podcast appearances or newspaper editorial boards' advocacy for positions they now recant:

https://pluralistic.net/2023/09/17/how-to-think-about-scraping/

It's not that Nazi marches are good, or that scraping can't be bad – it's just that advocating for the use of IP to address either is a cure that's not just worse than the disease – it's also not a cure.

A problem can be real, and still not be solvable with IP. I have enormous sympathy for gamers who rail against cheaters who use aftermarket hacks to improve their aim, see through buildings, or command other unfair advantages.

If you want to tell a stranger how they must configure their PC or console, IP ("any law that lets you control your competitors, critics or customers") is an obvious answer. But – as with other attempts to solve real problems with IP – this is a cure that is both worse than the disease, and also not a cure after all.

Back in 2002, Blizzard sued some hobbyists over a program called "bnetd." Bnetd was a program that provided a game-server you could connect to with the Blizzard games that you'd bought. It was created as an alternative to Battlenet, Blizzard's notoriously unreliable game-server software that left gamers frustrated and furious due to frequent outages:

https://www.eff.org/cases/blizzard-v-bnetd

To the public, Blizzard made several arguments against bnetd. They claimed that it encouraged piracy, because – unlike the official Battlenet servers – it didn't check whether the copies of Blizzard software that connected to it had a valid license key. Gamers didn't really care about that, but they did respond to another argument: that bnetd lacked the anti-cheat checking of Battlenet.

But that wasn't what Blizzard took to the court: in court, they argued that the hobbyists who made bnetd violated copyright law. Specifically, Section 1201 of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act, which bans "circumvention of access controls to copyrighted works." Basically, Blizzard argued that bnetd's authors violated the law because they used debuggers to examine the software they'd paid for, while it ran on their own computers, to figure out how to make a game server of their own.

Blizzard didn't sue bnetd's authors for pirating Blizzard software (they didn't – they'd paid for their copies). They didn't sue them for abetting other gamers' piracy. They certainly didn't sue them for making a cheat-friendly game-server.

Blizzard sued them for analyzing software they'd paid for, while it was running on their own computers.

Imagine if Walmart – one of the biggest book-retailers in America – had a policy that said that you could only shelve the books you bought at Walmart on shelves that you also bought at Walmart. Now imagine that Walmart successfully argued that measuring the books you bought from them and using those measurements to create your own compatible book-case violated their IP rights!

This is an outrageous triumph of IP rights over real property rights, and yet gamers vocally backed Blizzard in the early noughts, because gamers hate cheaters and because IP law is (correctly) understood as "the law that lets a company tell you how you can use your own real, physical property." Hard cases make bad law, hard IP cases make batshit law.

It's more than 20 years since bnetd, and cheating continues to serve as a Trojan horse to smuggle in batshit new IP laws. In Germany, Sony is suing the cheat-device maker Datel:

https://torrentfreak.com/sonys-ancient-lawsuit-vs-cheat-device-heads-in-right-direction-sonys-defeat-240705/

Sony argues that the Datel device – which rewrites the contents of a player's device's RAM, at the direction of that player – infringes copyright. Sony claims that the values that its programs write to your device's RAM chips are copyrighted works that it has created, and that altering that copyrighted work makes an unauthorized derivative work, which infringes its copyright.

Yes, this is batshit, and thankfully, Sony has been thwarted in court to date, but it is steaming ahead to the EU's highest court. If it succeeds, then it will open up every tool that modifies your computer at your direction to this kind of claim.

How bad can it be? Well, get this: the German publishing giant Axel Springer (owned by a monomaniacal Trumpist and Israel hardliner who has ordered journalists in his US news outlets to go easy on both) is suing Eyeo, makers of Adblock Plus, on the grounds that changing HTML to block an ad creates a "derivative work" of Axel Springer's web-pages:

https://torrentfreak.com/ad-blocking-infringes-copyright-ancient-sony-cheat-lawsuit-may-prove-pivotal-240729/

Axel Springer's filings cite the Sony/Datel case, using it to argue that their IP rights trump your property rights, and that you can only configure your web-browser, running on your computer, which you own, in ways that it approves of.

Axel Springer's war on browsers is a particularly pernicious maneuver, because browsers are the best example we have of internet software that serves as a "user agent." "User agent" is an old-timey engineering synonym for "browser" that reflects the browser's role: to go out onto the web on your behalf and bring back things for you, which it displays in the way you prefer:

https://pluralistic.net/2024/05/07/treacherous-computing/#rewilding-the-internet

Want to block flickering GIFs to forestall photosensitive epileptic servers? Ask your user agent to find and delete them. Want to shift colors into a gamut that accounts for your color-blindness? Ask your user-agent:

https://dankaminsky.com/2010/12/15/dankam/

Want to goose the font size and contrast so you can read the sadistic grey-on-white type that young designers use in the mistaken belief that black-on-white type is "hard on the eyes"? That's what Reader Mode is for:

https://frankgroeneveld.nl/2021/08/24/most-underused-browser-feature/

The foundation of any good digital relationship is a device that works for you, not for the people who own the servers you connect to. Even if they don't plan on screwing you over by directing your user agent to attack you on their behalf right now, the very existence of a facility in your technology that causes it to betray you, by design, is a moral hazard that inevitably results in your victimization:

https://pluralistic.net/2023/08/02/self-incrimination/#wei-bai-bai

"IP" ("a law that lets me control how you use your own property") is a tempting solution to every problem, but ultimately, IP ends up magnifying the power of the already powerful, in contests where your only hope of victory is having a user agent whose only loyalty is to you.

The monotonic, dangerous expansion of IP reflects the growing victory of rents over profits – income from owning things, rather than income from doing things. Everyday people may argue for IP in the belief that it will solve their immediate problems – with AI, or Nazis, or in-game cheats – but ultimately, the expansion of a law that limits how you can use your property (including your capital) to uses that don't threaten neofeudalists will doom you to technoserfdom.

Support me this summer on the Clarion Write-A-Thon and help raise money for the Clarion Science Fiction and Fantasy Writers' Workshop!

If you'd like an essay-formatted version of this post to read or share, here's a link to it on pluralistic.net, my surveillance-free, ad-free, tracker-free blog:

https://pluralistic.net/2024/07/29/faithful-user-agents/#hard-cases-make-bad-copyright-law

[handweavers]

something that comes up for me over and over is a deep frustration with academics who write about and study craft but have little hands-on experience with working with that craft, because it leads to them making mistakes in their analysis and even labelling of objects and techniques incorrectly. i see this from something as simple as textiles on display in museums being labelled with techniques that are very obviously wrong (claiming something is knit when it's clearly crochet, woven when that technique could only be done as embroidery applied to cloth off-loom) to articles and books written about the history of various aspects of textiles making considerable errors when trying to describe basic aspects of textile craft-knowledge (ex. a book i read recently that tried to say that dyeing cotton is far easier than dyeing wool because cotton takes colour more easily than wool, and used that as part of an argument as to why cotton became so prominent in the industrial revolution, which is so blatantly incorrect to any dyer that it seriously harms the argument being made even if the overall point is ultimately correct)

the thing is that craft is a language, an embodied knowledge that crosses the boundaries of spoken communication into a physical understanding. craft has theory, but it is not theoretical: there is a necessary physicality to our work, to our knowledge, that cannot be substituted. two artisans who share a craft share a language, even if that language is not verbal. when you understand how a material functions and behaves without deliberate thought, when the material knowledge becomes instinct, when your hands know these things just as well if not better than your conscious mind does, new avenues of communication are opened. an embodied knowledge of a craft is its own language that is able to be communicated across time, and one easily misunderstood by those without that fluency. an academic whose knowledge is entirely theoretical may look at a piece of metalwork from the 3rd century and struggle to understand the function or intent of it, but if you were to show the same piece to a living blacksmith they would likely be able to tell you with startling accuracy what their ancient colleague was trying to do.

a more elaborate example: when i was in residence at a dye studio on bali, the dyer who mentored me showed me a bowl of shimmering grey mud, and explained in bahasa that they harvest the mud several feet under the roots of certain species of mangroves. once the mud is cleaned and strained, it's mixed with bran water and left to ferment for weeks to months.  he noted that the mud cannot be used until the fermentation process has left a glittering sheen to its surface. when layered over a fermented dye containing the flowers from a tree, the cloth turns grey, and repeated dippings in the flower-liquid and mud vats deepen this colour until it's a warm black. 

he didn't explain why this works, and he did not have to. his methods are different from mine, but the same chemical processes are occurring. tannins always turn grey when they interact with iron and they don't react to other additives the same way, so tannins (polyphenols) and iron must be fundamental parts of this process. many types of earthen clay contain a type of bacteria that creates biogenic iron as a byproduct, and mixing bran water with this mud would give the bacteria sugars to feast upon, multiplying, and producing more of this biogenic iron. when the iron content is high enough that the mud shimmers, applying this fermented mixture to cloth soaked in tannins would cause the iron to react with the tannin and finally, miraculously: a deep, living grey-black cloth.

in my dye studio i have dissolved iron sulphide ii in boiling water and submerged cloth soaked in tannin extract in this iron water, and watched it emerge, chemically altered, now deep and living grey-black just like the cloth my mentor on bali dyed. when i watched him dip cloth in this brown bath of fermented flower-water, and then into the shimmering mud and witness the cloth emerge this same shade of grey, i understand exactly what he was doing and why. embodied craft knowledge is its own language, and if you're going to dedicate your life to writing about a craft it would be of great benefit to actually "speak" that language, or you're likely to make serious errors.

the arrogance is not that different from a historian or anthropologist who tries to study a culture or people without understanding their written or spoken tongue, and then makes mistakes in their analysis because they are fundamentally disconnected from the way the people they are talking about communicate. the voyeuristic academic desire to observe and analyse the world at a distance, without participating in it. how often academics will write about social movements, political theory and philosophy and never actually get involved in any of these movements while they're happening. my issue with the way they interact with craft is less serious than the others i mentioned, but one that constantly bothers me when coming into contact with the divide between "those who make a living writing about a subject" and "those who make a living doing that subject"

[beakers-and-telescopes]

With the fast fashion industry… how it is… finding sustainable ways to make fabric is super important.  Fibers from synthetic fabrics make up 35% of the microplastics that make their way to the ocean.  Natural fibers sourced from plants or animals are much more environmentally sound options, including silk.

Currently, the only way to get natural silk on a large scale is to harvest it from silkworms.  You’ve probably heard about the strength and durability of spider silk (it is 6x stronger than Kevlar!) but as of yet there hasn’t been a good way of getting it.  Raising spiders the way people do silkworms isn’t really an option.  Spiders need a lot of room to build their webs compared to silkworms, and individual spiders don’t produce that much silk.  Plus, when you put a whole bunch of spiders in captivity together, they tend to start eating each other.

Attempts to artificially recreate spider silk have also been less than successful.  Spider silk has a surface layer of glycoproteins and lipids on it that works as a sort of anti-aging “skin”- allowing the silk to withstand conditions such as sunlight and humidity.  But this layer has been very tricky to reproduce.

However, as scientists in China realized, silkworms produce that same kind of layer on their silk.  So what if we just genetically modified silkworms to produce spider silk?

That is exactly what the researchers at Donghua University in Shanghai did.  A team of researchers introduced spider silk protein genes to silkworms using CRISPR-Cas9 gene editing and microinjections in silkworm eggs.  In addition to this, they altered the spider silk proteins so that they would interact properly with the other proteins in silkworm glands.  And it worked!  This is the first study ever to produce full length spider silk proteins from silkworms.

The applications of this are incredibly exciting.  In addition to producing comfortable textiles and new, innovative bulletproof vests, silkworm generated spider silk could be used in cutting edge smart materials or even just to create better performing sutures.  In the future, this team intends to research how to modify this new spider silk to be even stronger, and they are confident that “large-scale commercialization is on the horizon."