#TUTORIAL
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ask-asexual-crystal-gems · 3 days ago
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I’m both an aphant and asexual so can’t relate XD
I also dunno how the original poster thinks this implies any particular sex act, although splooge is of course the most obvious part of the pun.
To me it implies rubbing, ie a handjob
Aaaanyway, I would like the Know Your Meme people to do a tutorial on how they locate the “earliest mentions of” a meme. I’ve seen people do this for fact-checking too, but it occurs to me that people should learn the actual process.
ive forgotten the origin of "she blank on my blank til i blank" and i dont even begin to know how to look it up
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barnlarn · 2 days ago
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Revising some of my horse drawing tips pages, starting with necks!
Corrected some muscle names and added more explanation/ method.
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crystalmagpie447 · 11 hours ago
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HUZZAH I DID IT
@asmolvaporeon
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EEK
HOPE THIS HELPS!!!
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sleepy-mocha · 1 day ago
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Posted the tutorial for this piece early on p4tr30n!!! 🧡 You can watch it now there, or wait til Christmas Day to see it on youtube for free!
I talked about how I colored and rendered this sketch from my october sketchbook pdf :3
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morebagels · 16 hours ago
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^ iterator projection tutorial!! ^
this post follows on from this one made by @prismsoup, intended to cover my slightly more extended process (including post-processing)
step -1 : pre-requisites
this tutorial is designed around clip studio paint for PC because its what i work with. its probable that whatever other program / platform you're using has these features but under different names
i use a rainworld typography font for text. find it here (or do it yourself)
i use scanline textures as a part of this. find them here
step 0 : select a base image
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maps, blueprints and diagrams are favourable due to lots of detail without it derailing into noise. get experimental though, my favourite one came out from a picture of a nebula, and another from a friends factorio screenshot
step 1 : binarise & flip
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this command can be found under edit > tonal correction (D) > binarization. this forces every pixel in the image to be either black or white. adjust its sensitivity to your liking
step 2 : remove background
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add in a black layer below (not just paper layer, as will become important later). wand select the background colour and delete it. if the remaining colour is black, CTRL+I to invert it to white
step 3 : add details
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replace any text with rainworld font or simply remove it. add in blueprints or other complex decals (drawingdatabase is a decent source). during importing remember to binarise (after resizing). for "lower layer" elements such as contour lines create outlines for higher layers to retain clarity
step 4 : add multiply layer(s)
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if you want to have multiple colours, put everything in the "higher" layer into a folder and set the top multiply to clipping above it
step 6 : post processing setup
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copy all existing layers, create a new folder on top, and paste into that folder. right click the folder and "merge selected layers" set the resultant layer to add(glow). copy+paste and hide duplicate for now. from filters > blur apply a guassian blur with a strength of 130-170 (this creates the base bloom layer). set opacity to ~50%
step 7 : chromatic abberation
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unhide not-blurred layer. guassian blur with a strength of 2. duplicate again. select top layer and move 1px up and 1px left (with arrow keys). CTRL+U then change the hue by 30. select bottom layer and move 1px down and 1px right, CTRL+U then change hue by -30.
stronger chromatic abberation can come from stronger gaussian blur and more change in hue
step 8 : scanlines
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add the scan lines on top, invert so that they're white and set to add(glow). copy a multiply layer over it and make sure clipping is on. decrease layer opacity to ~10%. if it does not cover the whole image initially, paste more in and merge them together into one layer
tada! you now have one iterator projection. if you want to give it an extra affect, re-import the final PNG and filter > distort > convert to panorama. set distortion to 10 and scale to 101 (note that this drastically blurs the image)
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lalasimmer · 2 days ago
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How to convert Sims 4 3D CAS Rooms to Sims 3
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Disclaimer: If you’re not familiar with Blender/TSRW/UVs then this tutorial may not be for you. If you don’t have Sims 4 Studio which needs the Sims 4 base game (or don’t know how to extract the meshes without it) this tutorial may not be for you. Honestly it’s pretty straight forward, but there’s a lot of trial and error and going in game and out of game checking placement, etc. I use Blender 4.1 for this. The older Blender versions annoy me now lol I’m sorry 😅 but you should still be able to do the same things in the older versions. I'm trying to make this as easy as possible. I’m here to answer any questions though 💕 Tutorial below
Things you’ll need:
Blender (whatever version you prefer)
Sims 4 Studio
TSRW ( I use version 2.0.86)
My Christmas CAS Room here
My TSRW work file here
Tutorial:
Find a Sims 4 CAS room that you like and open it up in Sims4Studio. This is the one I'll be using for the tutorial.
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In the Texture tab, export the textures. The only textures that matter are the first 3 diffuse. Go to the Meshes tab and export the mesh, it will save as a .blend file. After that you can close out of Sims4Studio.
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Open my Christmas CAS Room in TSRW. You'll get this message. Hit ignore and don't send. We only need this file as a reference to resize the SIms 4 CAS room. Export the mesh as an obj, name it whatever you like. You can close TSRW for now.
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Open Blender and open the .blend file you exported from Sims4Studio. Make sure to delete studio_mesh_0 as it's just the shadow map and we don't need that. This is what mine looks like after fixing the textures.
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Then import the wavefront obj you just exported from TSRW. Again we're just using this as a size reference.
This is what it looks like after I added the obj. I scaled, moved, and rotated the room to match up as close as I could with my reference mesh. When you have it lined up to your liking you can delete the reference mesh. I usually import the sims 3 body to see where my sim would be in CAS as well so feel free to do that too.
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Now we have to separate the objects that use transparency in the scene to their own group. The transparent objects will always be located on studio_mesh_1. I usually do this in UV mode. Make sure UV Sync Selection is on. Where the red arrow is, that's the UV Selection button. It's blue so that means its on.
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Tip: If you're using the same Blender version I am (I'm not sure if the older versions below Blender 3.0 do this) you can disconnect the alpha in shader editor and then you can easily see what uses transparency because it has a black background like the plants. Don't worry about the one outside the window as that's on the backdrop image and doesn't show in CAS.
Important: Also, make sure you delete the back of the mirror frame or it will show through the mirror in game. I usually select it in the UV editor as well and delete it.
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After selecting all the objects that use transparency, I go to the 3D viewport window and press P, then selection. Now they're on their own layer as you can see. That's a very important step so please don't miss it.
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Sims 4 CAS Rooms don't have a closed room like ts3 and if you don't add walls/ceiling with planes you'll be able to see that it in CAS. You can do this in any way you're comfortable with. If you don't understand how to do it feel free to ask me. For this tutorial I will not be doing this perfectly lol I've done enough rooms and I'm just trying to teach here 😩
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Okay now last is renaming groups to import into TSRW. Make sure it's in this exact order and uses the exact group numbers.
Group 0 - Mirror
Group 1 - Windows/Curtains
Group 2 - View outside the window
Group 3 - Walls
Group 4 - Objects with transparency
Depending on the CAS Room you convert, yours may not have a mirror you know. You can delete groups in TSRW, experiment, feel free to ask me questions as well.
After renaming the groups, select only the groups you renamed and export as an obj. Make sure that object groups is checked so that they can stay in groups.
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Open TSRW and open the testroom_cas.wrk file.
After opening the file you'll see this exact room in this tutorial lol because I had to test some things first 😅
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Import the CAS room you converted from. You'll get these two messages. Click yes on the first and no on the second.
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Import your textures (yours may be different than mine depends on the converter) but most have been the same that I've seen. Group 0 is the mirror it doesn't require a texture. Group 1 and Group 4 usually have the same texture.
After export to sims3pack or export as package file. Make sure you compress your files and you should be good to test your CAS room in game.
If you would like to make your own from the original ts3 cas room, I would suggest watching this Youtube video (it's for TS4 but it still applies and is helpful) and the link to the original ts3 cas room is here. Since we can convert ts4 to ours you could probably just build your own and go from there as well.
Thanks to @mookymilksims for testing things for me and converting her own. If you would like to try this tutorial out and experiment with room placements using @boringbones Ultra wide CAS mod which changes the field of view in cas so that you can see the whole cas room, it is here. I didn't use it for mine, but that's only because I found out about it after from Mooky lol and I'm tired of converting them 😅 but feel free to ask me any questions if you need help 😊
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snippit-crickit · 3 days ago
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Hiya Snippit! I absolutely adore your artwork, its such an inspiration to me!! Your colours, textures, and sheer energy and mood that you put into each work is absolutely fantastic!
I do have a question on how you make your backgrounds, whether it's a scene, abstract, or just atmospheric. I always seem to struggle with them myself, and I was wondering what tends to be your thought process for making them? Keep up the amazing work!!
Hiii thank you so much : D!!! Hmm i think what id reccomend is doing small color keys for stuff and using references : ]
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for example- heres some styleframes for a student film ill possibly be developing and im basing it off deep sea photos
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same goes for these color keys with moustache guy!! i took some reference photos of the nyc subway and some other metros, thought about how i want the tint change from pretty neutral to a ominous green
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I think once you have a good color key you can think about the render,, James gurney has a really good book on color theory if you wanna check it out! also i am guilty of using overlays often, i used to think of it as cheating but now i think this is an aid and its here for me to use it as for other tips i reccomend drawing a grid and putting it in perspective, if theres a floor in your frame
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you can delete it afterwards but it will help your brain on how to place things You can take it a step further if youre drawing an interior and draw a simple 2d room plan with a grid, stretch it in perspective and "extrude" it
Overall i also did a lot of studies so that mustve helped as well, if youre sitting in a place with your sketchbook, do a study of it! Pen and paper, its fun because you can look back atthem in a few years and remember how your room looked like or where youve been... Also if youre bored by studies you can draw them and put your character in them to make them feel more personal : ] Good luck!
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powluna · 3 days ago
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NEW VIDEO TUTORIAL 🩷
Yes, you see right, I uploaded another tutorial just ONE week after the last one, but I just had to explain more stuff.
In this video I talk about vertex groups and how to add them manually to your mesh. This is a follow up video of the last one where I talk about adding own assets into the game, but it also stands very well on it's own if you have problems with the famous "weight transfer" or "data transfer" method.
Definitely check it out if you want to understand vertex groups, bones and weights a bit more!
Here are the timestamps:
00:00 Intro
01:00 Explaining Vertex Groups [Rig, Pose Mode]
01:35 Bone list and Bone tab [Parent & Child Bone]
02:16 Recap of what happened in the previous video [Data Transfer]
02:40 Checking out the current vertex groups and weights
03:29 Finding new bone and adding it to the mesh [Add vertex groups, add weights]
04:54 Deleting unnecessary vertex groups
05:00 Testing the new vertex group and its weight
05:12 Example of different weight paint
05:25 Another demonstration of parent & child bones
05:52 Finding more vertex groups and adding them
06:54 Adjusting the mesh to avoid clipping
07:16 Extra: how to clear custom posing of the rig
 07:40 Ingame demo & Outro
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libraford · 3 days ago
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Multipaper mini junk journal (handy with a needle version)
Good morning!
Yesterday I showed yall how to make a mini junk journal the easy way.
It is a very useful skill to know how to make your own journals because it can save you money. Today I'm going to show you a slightly more precise version.
This version is for you if:
-you want to make slightly thicker books that last longer than the zine stitch version.
-you know how to sew even a little.
-you think you'd like to make these as gifts for other people, not just yourself.
-you deserve nice things
-elevate your zine game.
For this project you will need-
Your papers- 8.5×11 inch
Cardstock or thicker paper for the cover.
A needle
Thread
An awl or some other sharp pointy thing (I have used a knife, lock picking tools, thicker needles)
If you already did the staple version, GREAT! You are already almost done! You're gonna follow up to STEP 3 of that tutorial, summarized here:
Fold the paper in half short wise, tear/cut along the crease, then fold in half again short wise.
Do this for every paper.
Do this also for your cardstock.
Lay the papers one on top of each other and make sure they fit inside one another. Arrange as desired. Put the cardstock on the bottom.
Lay it open so the centerfold is face up.
OKAY NOW STOP.
STEP 4
I'm gonna show you something called a 'pamphlet stitch.'
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Poke three holes along the centerfold using your sharp pointy of choice. I have, in a pinch, gone straight to sewing, using the needle as the puncture. Technically, you can do this, but if you're using thick papers it's more trouble than it's worth and can dull your needle.
STEP 5
When sewing the papers together*, you are going to start from the middle.
*you might notice my needle is weird! This is curved upholstery needle, and I've learned that it's somewhat easier to maneuver when sewing a spine. However, a regular straight needle is fine. If you plan on making a lot of these, curved needles are your friend.
I was always told to use waxed linen thread for book making, but this is an uncommon item to find in the average house. Waxed linen thread is stronger, stiffer, and less likely to fray when going through multiple sheets. Regular thread works, but may not last a long time.
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You've gone through the middle, and out the back. Come back in through the top hole.
Then out the center hole.
Then back in through the bottom hole.
Then back through center.
You're making a big figure-8 with the thread. You can repeat it as many times as you want or as many times as it will let you.
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STEP 6
Tie a knot! You can do this wherever you want, but I prefer to put it in the centerfold.
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Check it out!
You've got a little pocket journal with whatever papers makes your heart sing!
Slap a sticker on it!
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Nice!
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ez-zylubsraccoons · 2 days ago
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Needed this 🙏
Do you have any advice for drawing rodents? Any advice help as I'm having trouble drawing their faces.
Hey there! I hear you honestly, rodent faces took me forever to figure out. I will say my style is very cartoonish, and I take a lot of liberties with my characters so I can have them fit a persona, style, or look that I'm going for.
But if you'd like a quick little tutorial I'd be happy to give it!
Most important thing is to study. Look at real life rodents, look at rodent skulls. The skulls especially are the building blocks of the entire anatomy of the face.
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I'm mainly going to focus on side profile of a rat for now! Pads here is a good example of how you can take the basic form of the skull and add your own style to it.
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When I look at the rat skull I break it down into the separate forms. I use circles here but you could easily use rectangles and squares to assist you with the volume/depth. I like to imagine the muzzle area as one slightly stretched egg shape. When switching to front view you're looking at the egg from top down, it's almost completely round.
You can use these forms when you are sketching out the outlines to help you draw the face. The most prominent feature on rats is their large upper jaw. A lot of mammals share this trait, but on rats its more pronounced and it's far more sloped.
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Here's a quick step by step. Rat/rodent heads are far more narrow and sloped downward than say a canine head, which often sports a longer more upward turned snout.
Once you have the basic of the form down you can pretty much go crazy from there! Pads here is a bit more angular and intense than say his sister Sorcha, who I've softened and made more sleek in comparison. Here's a pic of her and a few other rats!
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But creating stylized characters is all about breaking rules. Once you have a basic understanding of the form, you can learn all the angles from there!
Hope this helped!
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acoraxia · 2 days ago
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How do you make the slight jolting in your animatics? Like the small movements without having to redraw much?
I tweak duplicate frames and then edit them to give the idea of subtle movements using the lasso tool to select ares and mesh transform to move certain parts around
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these slight edits can be a little tricky to grasp at first!! i still struggle with it sometimes but it goes a long way once you get the hang of it
you can even make certain movements smoother - you just need to figure out what areas of the frame you should move to make certain acts work
I’m not an expert though!! Still figuring stuff out and I don’t have a proper app like CSP for actual animation stuff so it’s a lot of guessing and playing around with it
hope this helps!
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holly-days · 2 days ago
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by trytrytrydiy
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ragsy · 8 hours ago
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extremely loose tutorial i threw together to explain how i draw bird feet! maybe it's a little bit "draw a circle, then draw the rest of the owl," but learning this trick made a significant difference for me.
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bleaksimmer · 2 days ago
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Pink Flashing Solution
Are you still getting pink flashing in the new age of 2024?
There are plenty of solutions but there is one that ultimately stopped mine
Click here for the tutorial!
*I'm unsure if its compatible with mac
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This tutorial is someone else's work, I'm just bringing light to it since it literally saved my sims game.
I might copy the text and reupload it here since many people don't trust links (which is ok, I don't usually too), but I'll see about that...
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nikoco11 · 6 months ago
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my recipe for drawing hands!
(small note that this is a shortcut that is more abt style and ease than anatomical accuracy. it helps to take time to really properly study hands, makes it easier to bend the rules a bit like this and have it still look good!!)
(learn rules b4 u break them or whatevah)
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