#Spring 2021 Style

[alternativerunway]

Rokh Spring 2021

[jayhitchn]

Versace Spring RTW 2021

[stylestream]

Jasmine Cephas | Christopher John Rogers Spring 2021 dress | Blindspotting Press | 2021

[ollywears]

Olly Alexander wearing an Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood RTW Spring 2021 necklace Tiktok story (February 22, 2024).

[style-stylist]

Fear of God Spring 2021

[peekofhistory]

直裾战国袍 / Straight-edged Warring States robe: Distinguished by the excessive amount of fabric for the sleeves and the waist-to-floor straight edge, this style of Warring States robe was worn between the Warring States period and the Han Dynasty.

Warring States robes can usually be purchased in 2 lengths; - trailing on the floor (great for photos, awful for walking) - hemmed right at the floor (not as beautiful in photos, a lot easier for walking) Most stores selling this style of robes have skipped the extra piece of fabric between the sleeve and body, changing the entire drape of the fabric. Instead of it naturally opening at the front, this small change in the design causes the fabric to be completely closed at the front which makes walking without stepping on the fabric impossible (speaking from personal experience) T___T

==**==**==**==**==**==**==**==

Hanfu, the historical clothing of the Han people in China, has thousands of years of history. Since the 2000s, there has been a revival of Hanfu within China, with many Hanfu stores opening in the past two decades.

I first became aware that I could purchase Hanfu in 2021 and hoarded a bunch. Recently, I started digging more and more into the topic and realized that, while many of the Hanfu being sold are beautiful, they're not exactly true to the styles of Hanfu in the past. That's not to say they shouldn't be sold or worn, I'm not interested in gatekeeping what others wear, but I became intrigued by what exactly DID the historical Hanfu styles look like based on historical artefacts.

For my own interest, and for any others who might be interested, I'm going to try and do a series of the various Hanfu styles throughout the dynasties.

Chinese dynasties timeline for reference:

Shang Dynasty 商 (1300–1046 BC) Zhou Dynasty 周 (1046–256 BC) Western Zhou 西周 (1046–771 BC) Eastern Zhou 东周 >> Spring and Autumn Period 春秋 (770–481 BC) >> Warring States Period 战国 (481–221 BC) Qin Dynasty 秦 (221–207 BC) Han Dynasty 汉 >> Western Han 西汉 (206 BC–8 AD) >> Xin Dynasty 新 (9–23) >> Eastern Han 东汉 (25–220) Three Kingdoms 三国 (220–265) Jin Dynasty 晋 >> Western Jin 西晋 (265–316) >> Eastern Jin 东晋 (317–420) Northern and Southern Dynasties 南北朝 (420–589) Sui Dynasty 隋 (581–618) Tang Dynasty 唐 (618–907) Five Dynasties 五代 (907–960) Song Dynasty 宋 >> Northern Song 北宋 (960–1127) >> Southern Song 南宋 (1127–1279) Yuan Dynasty (Mongols) 元 (1271–1368) Ming Dynasty 明 (1368–1644) Qing Dynasty (Manchus) 清 (1644–1911) Republic of China 民国 (1912–1949) People's Republic of China 中华人民共和国 (1949-present)

[lamaisongaga]

FASHION CREDITS: LADY GAGA AT COACHELLA WEEKEND I

Eight years after she first made history at Coachella, Lady Gaga reclaimed her throne in 2025 with a headlining performance that was nothing short of operatic chaos. 

Choreography by Parris Goebel, styling by HARDSTYLE, hair by Frederic Aspiras and glam by Sarah Tanno-Stewart.

Her dark pop spectacle opened with a haunting visual interlude titled “The Manifesto of Mayhem”—a cinematic overture that reintroduced the world to Mistress Mayhem, Gaga’s latest alter ego.

Bathed in crimson light and surrounded by shadows, Gaga emerged on the screens in a rare archival piece: a bondage-inspired black leather straitjacket from Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2003 collection. The jacket, adorned with a grid of heavy buckles and silver hardware, set the tone for the night��iconoclastic, provocative, and entirely in control.

The incredible black mesh boater hat with rubber barbed wire around was created for our girl by milliner Lara Jensen who‘s been working with Gaga for over a decade!

Her angelic counterpart donned the Garden Fairy mesh corset top made from recycled vintage fabrics ($925 - sold out) from Central Saint Martins graduate Gyouree Kim‘s Spring/Summer 2025 "Cherubim" collection.

If the "Manifesto of Mayhem" set the tone, then what followed was pure operatic excess. Gaga made her true entrance atop a towering crimson structure draped in velvet folds—her silhouette like a deity descending upon her disciples.

The look? A custom creation by avant-garde visionaries Samuel Lewis, Athena Lawton and William Ramseur—a pleated, studded spiked masterwork of red velvet drama. Drawing inspiration from Edwardian silhouettes and Mugler’s villainous couture—particularly his take on "Lady Macbeth"—the jacket was armored in silver pyramidal studs, its spine and shoulders flaring like a queen prepared for battle.

Beneath the sweeping opera curtain–inspired skirt—engineered by the theatrical masterminds at Jet Sets —hid an elaborate cage several feet tall, housing Gaga’s dancers like a twisted chorus of shadows. The garment was both fortress and stage, its hem draping downward like blood-soaked drapery from an abandoned palace.

Topped with bone-like protrusions with crystal embellishments at the collar and sleeves, Gaga became something between a saint and a specter. Her performance from this fortress-skirted throne was a visual aria: high camp meets high art, rooted in madness, resurrection, and pure spectacle.

The opera singers beside her were dressed in huge wavy constructed yellow and black skirts with beaded velvet tops, custom-made by Candice Cuoco.

In one swift motion, she shed the heavy opera curtain—only to unveil a sensual, custom-made Samuel Lewis and Seth Pratt creation beneath. The ruby-red satin dress featured a sharp bodice with architectural puff shoulders and a plunging open front that gave way to the black lining. A crystal-embellished sash draped diagonally across her chest.

For the most intimate and arresting act of her set, Gaga appeared in a teddy—part lingerie fantasy, part gothic confessional, custom-made by the same duo. Crafted in rich black satin, the piece featured a sculpted bustier, delicate lace trim, and a shimmering crystal-embellished cross that ran from neckline to hem, catching the light like a whispered scandal.

Gaga strutted across the stage in the surprisingly affordable Leza over-the-knee boots by Steve Madden—retailing for just $89.99. Yes, you read that right.

"OFF WITH HER HEAD!"

Three of the characters are wearing these impeccable black veiled headpieces and dresses which were created by Nasir Mazhar in 2021, originally for balletLORENT.

Gaga's string orchestra wore draped black taffeta gowns made by AGRO STUDIO with custom headpieces all created by Lara Jensen.

As the lights dimmed and the stage transformed into a sepia-toned wasteland, re-emerged not as a pop powerhouse, but as a ghostly relic of beauty undone. Lying among skeletal remains and grains of dust, she conjured a scene straight from a tragic gothic fable.

For this act, titled “And She Fell Into A Gothic Dream,” Gaga wore a custom Dilara Findikoglu corset mini dress—a distressed, doll-like creation that whispered of innocence lost and romance decomposed. The off-white, almost bone-colored garment featured delicately frayed edges, an asymmetric hem, and panels of antique lace that seemed stitched together by time itself. Every rip and raw edge told a story of longing, survival, and sorrow.

The dancers wore skeleton masks made specially by Sarah Sitkin!

Gaga stepped back into one of her most iconic songs—"Paparazzi"—but this time, she didn’t just revisit it. She rearmed it.

As the familiar opening notes rang through the desert sky, Gaga reappeared in a custom Manuel Albarran armor bolero and matching helmet—a direct visual homage to the Mugler look she wore in the original "Paparazzi" music video.

For the high-octane performance featuring Gesaffelstein, Gaga slipped into a custom Marni catsuit, based on the house’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection. The original red suit—featuring beaded embroidery of a black wolf—was reimagined for Gaga as a skin-tight, asymmetrical bodysuit, fused with nude illusion mesh and stitched with jet-black sequins that glinted like sharpened claws.

To elevate the glam rock look even further, Gaga threw on a custom coat made entirely of hand-cut blue and black paper feathers, inspired by the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

A true blast from the past are her Savannah vinyl corset boots from Penthouse.

Her female background dances all wore custom costumes by Courtney McWilliams paired with the Miista Imogen black lace-up sneaker boots!

As the opening of "Zombieboy" echoed, Gaga returned to the stage, wearing a striking custom look designed by Samuel Lewis and William Ramseur: a military-inspired royal blue satin bustle coat, tailored to perfection and cut with razor-sharp precision. The garment featured exaggerated puffed shoulders, a nipped waist, and a flared skirt with an almost theatrical silhouette, marrying 18th-century regency with gothic fantasy. The pièce de résistance? The coat’s intricate gold embroidery, stitched by the artisans of Altesa Embroidery, which shimmered like bone filigree under the stage lights—mirroring a skeletal ribcage and spine that gave the look both regality and decay.

But Gaga didn’t stop there. To crown the ensemble, she donned a custom Marni paper feather helmet, styled like a twisted jester’s crown with raven-black plumage erupting from her temples.

The studded harness belt, she wore during "Zombieboy", was custom-made by Jonathan Burdine in collaboration with Iggy Soliven.

For "Shadow of a Man", Gaga emerged cloaked in mystery and command, donning a custom Louis Verdad x Samuel Lewis creation that was equal parts military regalia and avant-garde sculpture.

The charcoal grey structured jacket, tailored to her frame like armor, featured razor-sharp lines and a high, asymmetrical collar that framed her silhouette like a shadow in motion. Bold black patent leather straps slashed across her shoulders and waist, adding a sense of futuristic restraint to the otherwise regal tailoring.

Underneath, she wore black stretch vinyl shorts by Los Angeles Apparel.

For the final look of the night, Gaga delivered a breathtaking visual transformation in a total couture creation by Matières Fécales (formerly known as Fecal Matter), a brand famed for its futuristic, grotesque, and avant-garde sensibilities.

The custom ensemble was a full conceptual look, comprised of a satin-stitched bodysuit featuring a haunting red anatomical cross motif—meant to evoke the feeling of surgical stitches, resurrection, and rebirth (and a nod to the "Abracadabra" music video!). The bodysuit alone was a spectacle, but Gaga layered it with even more drama: a translucent organza coat (cropped specifically for her performance), and an exaggerated feathered bustle skirt constructed from delicate white plumes that moved with every beat, adding an ethereal weightlessness to the performance.

The silhouette was further intensified with a sculptural feather collar piece—a headpiece of long, otherworldly white feathers shooting upward like wings, perfectly framing her head and extending the theatrical effect, created by Paul Battenberg-Cartwright.

On her hands, Gaga wore elongated gauze gloves created by artist Yaz XL, designed to resemble haunting, claw-like monster hands. The exaggerated fingers extended dramatically into crystal-embellished tips, catching the stage lights with every movement and adding an eerie elegance to her already ethereal silhouette.

To complete the look, she grounded the ensemble with custom white lace-up ankle boots by Chrome Hearts.

The dancers were all dressed in custom Luis de Javier white lace looks and Balenciaga Cagole white boots! The nurses, that wheeled Gaga in, wore custom ILONA red gowns and hats.

[sitp-recs]

Masterlist Drarry Recs - Pt 4

Tropes:

A/B/O | Bottom Alpha | Omega Harry

8th year enemies to friends to lovers

Age difference

An event brings them together

Beauxbatons and Durmstrang AUs

Blowing each others mind (smut)

Cutesy 8th year

Curses, pranks and bad luck

Competent Drarry

D/s undertones

Demon Drarry

Drarry in fist fights

Ensemble cast

Emotional maturity

Epistolary

Fics set in a forest

Forced marriage | Married Drarry

Funny Mpreg

Gay awakening + trans Drarry

Hurt/comfort manipulation

Jealousy

Love/hate relationship

Magical theory and worldbuilding

Marauders Map

Morning after (intimacy)

“It isn’t like this with other people”

Drarry as each other’s safe place

Drarry in America

Drarry surprising the world

Drarry sacrificing their relationship

Drarry working through relationship issues

Realizing feelings and running away

Situationship | Toxic relationship

Long-distance relationship

Power imbalance

Pride and Prejudice AU

Draco in Azkaban

Draco learns about the Dursleys

Draco helps Harry heal his trauma

Harry defends Draco in the trials

Harry thinks Draco is Up to Something

Mental illness

Kid fic + humour | Secret pregnancy 1 & 2

University AU

Water-centric fics

Wedding planning

Witty fics

Workplace romance

T-rated comfort fics

Characters:

Age gap + Next Gen

Casual Drarry with other people | OMC

Drarry in a M/M/F threesome

Ron & Hermione dating other people

Draco & Ron friendship

Smart Harry

Harry helping Draco heal

Harry learns about old magic/pureblood society

Harry spoiling Draco

Harry comes back “wrong”

Sad but sweet Harry (8th year)

Harry living in a cottage

Dominant Harry | Possessive Harry

Talented Harry

Injured/disabled Harry

Magically Powerful Drarry

Rugged Drarry (manual labor)

Sexually inexperienced Harry

Harry cheats on Ginny with Draco

Dark Draco

Drunk Draco

Smitten Draco | Smitten Harry

Stalker Drarry | Unhinged Drarry

Draco changes after the war

Draco on parole

Guilty Draco & redemption arc

Draco is adopted by the Gryffindors

Manic Pixie Dream Girl Draco

Older Draco x younger Harry

Long Draco-centric fics | Long Harry-centric fics

Misc:

Drarry recs 2021-2023

Drarry WIPs

Canon style

My comfort rereads

Emotionally complex stories

Underrated fics

Long plotty fics (2024)

Spring reads

Top 5/10 ask game lists

[alternativerunway]

Louis Vuitton Spring 2021

[absolutebl]

Hii do you have any recommendations for bl that’s similar to Bad Buddy, My School President, and Semantic Error? Idk I’m looking for something fluffy, but with some angst for flavor (also potentially school setting but it doesn’t have to be). Anyways thank you so much!! 💟💟

10 Fluffy Yet Angsty BLs + School Setting (By Request Rec List)

Examples: Bad Buddy, My School President, Semantic Error

Interesting selection. I added the "school setting" to keep me tailored down. Let's see what we got.

You'll never guess how we are gonna start...

Did ya guess?

Seven Days

Japan 2015 - grey

Never doubt my ability to recommend this show. One of the best live action yaois ever made, with perfectly structured angst, fantastic characters and acting, and no problematic tropes (rare in Japanese BL). The leads have excellent chemistry although it’s low heat there’s still some really cute mutual kisses.

I Cannot Reach You

AKA Kimi ni wa Todokanai

Japan 2023 - Netflix

This classic friends-to-lovers BL is everything Japan does best. Angsty. Emo. Aching. Driven by real thirst. Yamato is deeply in love with his childhood bestie, Kakeru, and has been for ages, unable to hide his ungainly damaging high school need. He wants Kakeru in every way possible and it oozes off of the screen. Kakeru is silly and a little simple, but not frenetic or overly camp about it. He is earnest, and genuinely wants to keep Yamato in his life which means giving a romance (and gayness) a fair chance. We watch him realize his affection and what form it can take in a truly authentic way. This show was impossibly kind to both of its lead characters and I felt almost honored that I got to watch something so lovely and rare play out on my screen. Full review.

Light On Me

Korea 2021 Viki

Korea does an elegant pastiche of traditional live action yaoi but all tropes are cleverly deployed to bolster one of the most riveting love triangles ever put on screen… and I don’t like love triangles. LoM strategically tailors classic BL tropes to 2 different semes resulting in pristine pacing, plot, and character development, explicitly serving narrative (not just to tick boxes). LoM is a master class in this trope drops. (If you write fanfic or romance you should study this show.) Full review.

Cherry Blossoms After Winter

Korea 2022 Viki

Korea took on early Japanese sweet yaoi but gave it their signature softness and precise production with a STUNNING color palette (beautiful pastels, sun-saturated over-exposure), manga framg style, some traditional BL character archetypes, that tiny edge of bullying roughness and out-of-control seme, plus FINALLY a palatable take on the stepbrothers trope and it was, in a word, classic. Sophisticated and understated CBAW is not slow, it’s just subtle. It's dream-like and atmospheric, as if the whole thing took place under cold water on a warm spring day. Is there plot or peril? Not really. Do we care? Also, not really. Look, I can’t help it, I’m old school and so is this show. I grew up reading sweet yaoi, and this was THAT YAOI just on my screen. There’s no objectivity with me and this show. It’s a beautiful pastiche and I loved it for how it made me feel and what it remded me of. It’s not flawless, but it is a wonderful experience. Full review.

Takara-kun and Amagi-kun

Japan 2022 Gaga and Viki

I gnawed on my knuckles and squealed a lot with this show. Reserved cool kid who must learn to communicate to keep the tiny disaster nugget he’s madly in love with. It is beyond charmg: soft and gentle, packed with cuteness and high school angst, thirst, & yearning. Was there plot? Not really. Was it emotionally tense and paced well enough for me not to notice? Absolutely. Did I enjoy the hell out of it? Oh yes. Full review.

Blueming

Korea 2022 - iQIYI

It’s a tiny bit dark and a tiny bit bittersweet, almost too honest to a university experience and first love for BL, but if you want your md ever-so-slightly messed with and your intimacy hellishly sweet, this BL will do it for you in a coldly distant manner, while bitch slapping you with self worth issues. I wasn’t into it at first, but the leads are solid and by ep 5 it got really good, becomg a narrative about self discovery meets understanding and accepting others people’s flaws without hurting them. Ultimately we witnessed two characters maturing because of each other and their mutual affection, without that affection becomg the conflict point. Instead, tension was built around other aspects of identity, popularity, and self-worth. While production values were a touch lower than usual for Korea, Bluemg included decent kisses and other forms of intimacy and a satisfying ending plus there’s judicious and very elegant use of tropes, this is a great BL. Full review.

About Youth

Taiwan 2022 - Gaga

A truly lovely little coming of age high school BL with a classic YA low drama but high angst and an earnest depth. I didn’t even mind the singing, and that’s saying a lot. A weak seme/uke dynamic but tons of BL tropes (both rare in a high school setting but common for Taiwan) makes this one feel both sweet and colored by real world authenticity and grit. Full review.

My Love Mix Up

AKA Kieta Hatsukoi

Japan 2021 - Viki

Completely adorable absolute chaos bi disaster muffin falls accidentally and utterly in love with his classmate, hijinx and friendship result. What’s great about this BL is that it deals with things like homophobia, asexuality, and one sided affection in an extremely gentle and palatable way. Perhaps sometimes too subtle, but I believe this is a great show for younger audiences, particularly if you want to spark conversations about identity, sexuality, authority, truthfulness, and consent. Oh and it’s funny.

The Eclipse

Thai 2022 - YouTube

GMMTV does gay Blacklist with a good boy/bad boy pairing. This is a good show but the cast is excellent and the leads are absolutely flawless, which elevates it beyond just good. We got a nuanced and multifaceted burgeoning relationship: philosophical (and socio-political) conflict contrasted to moments of empathy; flirtation contrasted to moments of genuine affection, plus plenty of angst. This narrative is less about love than it is about courage and tenderness. However, near the end the pacing was off and the plot frustrating. Still, this is an enjoyable watch, with a finale that features verbal consent and a fun blooper reel.

Destiny Seeker

Thai 2023 - WeTV

Frankly this probubly ranks along side most of hte runners up, but it's chronically under watched so I wanted to give it a special shout out.

A darn near perfect pulp featuring 3 likable grumpy/sunshine pairings with uncomplicated iterations of enemies to lovers. At least one half of each does a decent amount of pining and there’s good chemistry, classic tropes, and communication rep. It’s fun and full of linguistic jokes. Sublimely cheesy but a good rainy day offering with tons of rewatch potential. Full review.

Honorable mention

These satisfy your criteria but I jsut personally like the above 10 better. And you did ask me, still OPTIONS!

2gether & Still 2gether

A Breeze of Love

Between Us

Dark Blue Kiss (+ Kiss Me Again - PeteKao Cut)

Hidden Agenda

Love By Chance

Love Class

Love Class 2

SOTUS

Star in My Mind

TharnType

Theory of Love

Why R U? Thailand

Why R U? Korea

(source)

[wokealqaeda]

On April 10, 2023, a mass shooting occurred at the Old National Bank in Louisville, Kentucky, United States. Five people were killed, and eight others were injured, including two responding police officers. The shooter, 25-year-old former employee Connor James Sturgeon, was fatally shot by police.

The shooting happened on the first floor of the Old National Bank on East Main Street, near Louisville Slugger Field and Waterfront Park. The shooter used an AR-15 style rifle, according to an anonymous federal law enforcement source.

Phone calls placed at around 8:38 a.m. EDT from the Old National Bank reported an active shooter in the area. The call was later changed to an active aggressor report. The employees of Old National Bank were in a conference room during a scheduled virtual meeting when the shooter opened fire. A manager at the bank said she observed the shooting through her computer. After the first shots were fired, the shooter began livestreaming the shooting on Instagram until he was killed by officers from the Louisville Metro Police Department (LMPD). The livestream was then taken down by Instagram.

An eyewitness in the conference room recounted that those in the room heard a click before the shooter opened fire. Another had just walked past the conference room and thought the shooting was construction noise, before being alerted of the shooting by another employee. Officers arrived at the bank three minutes after the first call. A woman who was at the intersection at the start of the shooting recounted that she saw a man lying near the entrance to a hotel before hearing shots and speeding off to a safer location. The shooter had set himself up in an ambush position to target police officers. Around 8:45 a.m., the LMPD confirmed that officers had exchanged gunfire with the shooter, who died of five police-inflicted bullet wounds approximately five minutes after the police arrived.

Five people were killed in the shooting. All of the victims were employed at Old National Bank. They were:

Joshua Barrick, 40

Deana Eckert, 57 (who died in the hospital the same day)

Tommy Elliott, 63

Juliana Farmer, 45

Jim Tutt, 64

The chief medical officer at University of Louisville Hospital said they had received nine patients, including two police officers, who were injured in the shooting. Three of them had been released later that afternoon, three were still in the hospital with non-life-threatening injuries, and three who were critically wounded had required operations. One police officer required brain surgery.

The LMPD identified the perpetrator as 25-year-old Connor James Sturgeon (February 11, 1998 – April 10, 2023), who was raised in Greenville, Indiana. Sturgeon attended Floyd Central High School in Floyds Knobs as a teenager. A former student told The Daily Beast that Sturgeon was a star athlete, and seen as a smart and popular student at Floyd Central. Another student claimed that Sturgeon was kept home for most of the eighth grade after repeatedly suffering concussions playing football. A spokesperson for Sturgeon's family confirmed that Sturgeon suffered several concussions. After graduating from Floyd Central in the spring of 2016, Sturgeon moved to Tuscaloosa, Alabama, where he attended the University of Alabama and graduated in December 2020, before moving back to Louisville where he was employed by the Old National Bank beginning in June 2021. According to a LinkedIn page, he interned at the bank over previous summers, and had worked full-time at the bank for nearly two years. A bank manager recalled him as being "low key" and "relaxed", and family members noted that he had depression. Several of his friends and members of his family expressed surprise over him being the perpetrator.

Prior to the shooting, Sturgeon messaged one of his friends stating that he felt suicidal and added that he wanted to kill as many people in the bank as he could, according to a police dispatcher. Sturgeon's Instagram account featured mostly pictures of his family and friends, and some dark memes. One had the caption, "I could burn this whole place down," another featured a gif of a scene from Star Wars: The Force Awakens where character Kylo Ren says "I know what I have to do, but I don't know if I have the strength to do it", and the last post before the attack said, "They won’t listen to words or protests. Let’s see if they hear this."

Sturgeon legally purchased the AR-15 rifle from a Louisville dealer six days before the shooting. Law enforcement sources said that Sturgeon left notes, one at his home and one on him, saying that part of his plan was to show how easily a person with mental illness could legally acquire a firearm in the United States. Sturgeon noted targeting "upper class white people" for its potential impactfulness on the issue was a motive for his actions.

Sturgeon's brain was retained and was tested for chronic traumatic encephalopathy, a degenerative brain condition caused by repeated trauma to the head. In November, the results were released and found no evidence of CTE.

[style-stylist]

Fear of God Spring 2021

[peekofhistory]

Quju robes are identified by the diagonal cut of the fabric at the front. It was worn around the same time period as the straight-edged Zhiju robes (直裾).

There are actually various types of Quju, some with curved sleeve bottoms, some are straight, some have thin collars, others are thick, etc. but they all share the same diagonal cut, with the fabric being wrapped around the body when worn.

For anyone interested in actually purchasing Hanfu for wear, Quju and Zhiju robes are AMAZING for fall/winter weather. You can wear multiple layers underneath, you can even throw a sweater and jeans underneath and no one would know. In the summer, however, the heavy and excessive fabric makes it feel like you're wearing a portable sauna 🥵🥵

==**==**==**==**==**==**==**==

Hanfu, the historical clothing of the Han people in China, has thousands of years of history. Since the 2000s, there has been a revival of Hanfu within China, with many Hanfu stores opening in the past two decades.

I first became aware that I could purchase Hanfu in 2021 and hoarded a bunch. Recently, I started digging more and more into the topic and realized that, while many of the Hanfu being sold are beautiful, they're not exactly true to the styles of Hanfu in the past. That's not to say they shouldn't be sold or worn, I'm not interested in gatekeeping what others wear, but I became intrigued by what exactly DID the historical Hanfu styles look like based on historical artefacts.

For my own interest, and for any others who might be interested, I'm going to try and do a series of the various Hanfu styles throughout the dynasties.

Chinese dynasties timeline for reference:

Shang Dynasty 商 (1300–1046 BC) Zhou Dynasty 周 (1046–256 BC) Western Zhou 西周 (1046–771 BC) Eastern Zhou 东周 >> Spring and Autumn Period 春秋 (770–481 BC) >> Warring States Period 战国 (481–221 BC) Qin Dynasty 秦 (221–207 BC) Han Dynasty 汉 >> Western Han 西汉 (206 BC–8 AD) >> Xin Dynasty 新 (9–23) >> Eastern Han 东汉 (25–220) Three Kingdoms 三国 (220–265) Jin Dynasty 晋 >> Western Jin 西晋 (265–316) >> Eastern Jin 东晋 (317–420) Northern and Southern Dynasties 南北朝 (420–589) Sui Dynasty 隋 (581–618) Tang Dynasty 唐 (618–907) Five Dynasties 五代 (907–960) Song Dynasty 宋 >> Northern Song 北宋 (960–1127) >> Southern Song 南宋 (1127–1279) Yuan Dynasty (Mongols) 元 (1271–1368) Ming Dynasty 明 (1368–1644) Qing Dynasty (Manchus) 清 (1644–1911) Republic of China 民国 (1912–1949) People's Republic of China 中华人民共和国 (1949-present)

[formulafanfics13]

All Eyes on Me - Chapter 2

Masterlist

Disclaimer:

This fanfic will contain mature themes and topics (smut, abuse, power imbalance, drug use, alcohol dependency, control, and eating disorders). There will not be warnings throughout, so if you proceed with this fic, please bear this in mind!

famous birthdays | martha jones

🌟 Martha Jones

Name: Martha Jones Nickname(s): MJ, Mar, M (used by Anna Wintour) Birthdate: December 13th, 2002 Age: 22 Star Sign: Sagittarius Birthplace: California, United States Nationality: American Ethnicity: White Languages:

Fluent: English, French, Welsh, German, Italian

Conversational: Spanish, Portuguese, Polish

🌍 Current Residence:

Primary: Manhattan, NYC – a high-rise penthouse with floor-to-ceiling windows, marble floors, white leather everything.

Secondary: London, UK – sleek Mayfair apartment used for shoots and work trips, always immaculate.

👠 Occupation:

Profession: International supermodel

Agencies: IMG Models (signed since 2016)

Notable Firsts:

Youngest model to ever walk in the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show (16 years old, zero months)

Closed the Chanel Spring 2022 show in Paris

Appeared on 14 Vogue covers globally by age 20

Other Work:

Ambassador for Balenciaga, Mugler, and YSL Beauty

Fashion design and marketing double degree (Sorbonne, Paris – completed online)

Occasional front-row critic for Vogue and Dazed

📈 Career Highlights:

Forbes' Top-Earning Models of 2023 (#1) – $38.8 million

Victoria's Secret's "Angel of the Decade" – unofficial title, very real impact

Runway Credits: Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Versace, Dior, Mugler, Givenchy, Tom Ford

Known For:

Her walk: slow, poised, predatory

Her stare: dead-eyed but devastating

Her discipline: inhuman

Her image: part myth, part masochism

💌 Public Image:

To fans: "The goddess of Gen Z fashion." A role model for beauty, power, and resilience. The girl who always looks perfect, even when she says she's not.

To media: A mysterious, untouchable icon. Hounded by rumours but always camera-ready. "The Girl Who Never Flinches."

💞 Relationship Status:

Current Partner: Jacob Elordi (2021–present)

Actor. Notorious for his bad-boy roles and better body.

Rumoured to be abusive. Whispers of violent fights, control issues, and visible bruises.

Has never been photographed smiling with her.

Past Relationships:

Jared Higgins aka Juice WRLD (2017–2019)

First love. 

He died in 2019. She's never publicly commented beyond: "He was the first person who made me feel like I was allowed to be messy."

Rumours:

Drug-fuelled club encounters with models, influencers, and rappers—frequently denied, never disproved

Abuse in her current relationship

💋 Associated With:

The Angel Girls 💋

Gigi Hadid, Barbara Palvin, Taylor Hill, Lila Moss

Famous for matching outfits, blurred Instagram stories, and being photographed leaving clubs at sunrise.

Other Close Contacts:

Kendall Jenner, Adriana Lima, Hailey Bieber

Sabrina Carpenter, Harry Styles, Jude Bellingham, Pablo Gavi

Anna Wintour (godmother figure)

Kate Moss (Lila's mum, famously cold toward MJ)

Industry Figures:

David Birch (VS CEO), Julia Thorne (campaign manager), Karen Smith (trainer), Leslie Heckerman (nutritionist), Paul Williams (Manager)

👨‍👩‍👧‍👦 Family Life:

Parents: Iris & Eric Jones

Still live in LA. Very wealthy.

Famously absent from every runway show she's ever walked

Sibling: Milo Jones (older brother)

No known relationship.

Family Dynamic:

Martha once said in an ELLE interview: "I love them. From a distance. A very, very photogenic distance."

🛫 How She Got Into Modelling:

Scouted at age 14 during a family trip to London

Signed within three weeks after walking into IMG's UK office in jeans and a hoodie

Walked her first runway (Burberry) two months later

Controversial from the start due to her age, body type, and calculated silence

Famously told Vogue in a 73 Questions video:

"I didn't choose this. Mama said I didn't have a choice, so here I am."

🧠 Education:

GCSEs completed at age 14 online while travelling

A Levels in Psychology, Sociology, Business, and Fashion (all A grades, completed by 16)

University: Sorbonne University, Paris – double major in Fashion Design & Marketing (completed remotely by age 21)

Known for: taking exams between castings and shoots, once submitting a final paper while walking for Mugler

🧨 Public Controversies + Trivia:

Admitted eating disorder survivor. Shared a now-deleted Instagram post showing a feeding tube in 2021

In 2022, claimed to survive on lemon water and protein shakes during Fashion Week

Frequently linked to drug use—especially cocaine. Never denied it.

Known to faint backstage and still walk the runway ten minutes later

Panic attacks. Hospital visits. Late-night ambulance sightings. But always shows up the next day with a smile.

Top 5 most-searched models on Google for three years running

Once slapped a male designer who grabbed her ass backstage. The video has 8 million views

Never confirmed or denied it. Just posted a story captioned: "Don't touch the art."

✨ Quote That Sums Her Up: "Perfection is just pain dressed in something pretty."

[covid-safer-hotties]

Also preserved in our archive

By Julia Doubleday

For many disabled and immunocompromised people, hospital settings are a significant threat to health and safety. Since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, nosocomial- or healthcare acquired- SARS-COV-2 infections have been an additional risk for sick and vulnerable people seeking care. As of today, there have still been no updates to national-level guidance to reflect that SARS-COV-2 was determined to be airborne in 2021.

In 2020, such a risk was to be expected; hospitals were overwhelmed with patients, PPE was in short supply, proper isolation wasn’t always possible, and public health guidance about transmission was confusing and, it turns out, incorrect. Early on, the WHO confidently and wrongly asserted that COVID was not airborne; this decision led national health bodies to advise against full airborne precautions in healthcare.

But in the nearly five years since, one might assume that any patient visiting their local hospital could reasonably expect safety from infection with COVID-19. After all, we’ve had five years to study transmission, update guidelines, redesign infrastructure, upgrade ventilation, purchase PPE and train staff, right?

As a matter of fact, the CDC has yet to even issue updated infection control recommendations, much less have we seen implementation. The CDC did ask their infection control advisory body, HICPAC, to update the Guideline to Prevent Transmission of Pathogens in Healthcare Settings, last reviewed and updated in 2007. But when HICPAC submitted a first draft of the updated guidelines in November 2023, it was over loud public objections registering that draft’s inadequacy to control airborne infections.

Now, HICPAC is continuing to insist that surgical-style masks are equivalent to N-95 respirators as it pushes forward with its draft guidelines. This decision is emblematic of its commitment to preserving ineffective droplet-based infection control in spite of new information and evidence. While bizarre from a purely scientific standpoint, it makes more sense from a cultural, political and economic point of view.

I’ve written at length about the political and economic factors that led the WHO to immediately claim that COVID wasn’t airborne without the scientific evidence to do so in Spring 2020. Perhaps just as irresponsible as their early decision to spread this misinformation has been their subsequent reluctance to correct their mistake as loudly as they first made it, and ongoing refusal to unequivocally recommend airborne precautions in the years since.

This year, the WHO released a document that rescinded the previous distinction between “droplet” and “airborne” transmission of viruses. This represents progress, as new data showed that no viruses actually transmit solely via “droplets”- i.e., only via sneezes and coughs.

The evolution of the science was tracked beautifully in this Wired article. It’s astonishing that we had such basic science so wrong, for so long. But it’s critical to note that for decades, there was a large financial incentive against looking too closely at the claim that flus, colds, and other common viral and bacterial infections were being spread only via large “droplets.”

“Droplet” precautions are relatively cheap and easy compared to the more complex and expensive requirements of controlling fully airborne infections. If a virus spreads through coughs and sneezes, how do you prevent transmission? Well, we all remember early pandemic guidance. Loose fitting surgical masks, social distancing and keeping diners (or patients) six feet apart, putting up physical barriers to protect from spit, and simply washing hands and covering coughs and sneezes are all examples of droplet-based infection control measures.

But airborne spread is far more difficult to control. Now we’re talking about viruses spreading well beyond six feet, well beyond the radius of a single cough or sneeze. We’re talking about the virus spreading, not just via coughs and sneezes, but via the simple act of exhaling. And not only that, but because airborne particles are so light, they don’t quickly fall to the ground the way droplets do; instead, they can hang in the air, much like smoke. So now, a waiting room or crowded examining area full of patients with flus, colds and COVID suddenly represents a much more complicated and expensive infection control problem for a hospital.

Proper airborne infection control procedures are expensive, but they are not mysterious. Some changes would be relatively simple; masking with proper respirator-style masks, rather than surgical, is an obvious, necessary upgrade. New ventilation and filtration standards are a simple fix technologically, but require investment. Tools like Far UVC are exciting and could mean drastic leaps forward in both patient outcomes and occupational safety for HCW.

Most likely, in order to save money long term and make airborne infection control sustainable, hospitals themselves would be constructed with airborne infection control, patient isolation, airflow, ventilation, etc. as major priorities in the process of designing the infrastructure.

Airborne infection control would require, rather than tinkering at the edges of existing practices, a top-down rethinking of hospital protocols. How are patients being screened upon entry into the hospital? How can COVID, flu, RSV, etc. positive patients be protected from one another in a waiting room? Why are so many hospitals designed without windows in patient care areas?

Are you beginning to see how the economic incentives align against admitting the need for airborne infection control?

Let’s return to the WHO’s document, the one that rescinded the distinction between airborne and droplet spread. Instead, all viruses which spread through the air are now referred to as “infectious respiratory particles” or IRPs. The document encourages moving “beyond the dichotomy of previous terms known as ‘aerosols’ (generally smaller particles) and ‘droplets’ (generally larger particles).”

But problems arise when the WHO attempts to apply what we’ve learned practically- or rather, doesn’t attempt to apply it. Here, it balks at what would be a massive undertaking. As I reported previously, back in 2020, the WHO had been quick to claim:

“Would there be evidence of significant spread of SARS-CoV-2 as an airborne pathogen outside of the context of AGPs [aerosol-generating procedures], WHO would immediately revise its guidance and extend the recommendation of airborne precautions accordingly”

But in 2024, the WHO, now well aware that SARS-COV-2 is a fully airborne pathogen, adopts a new approach to infection control. It’s one totally unprecedented for any other pathogen in healthcare. They advise:

There is NO suggestion from this consultative process that to mitigate the risk of short-range airborne transmission full ‘airborne precautions’… should be used in all settings, for all pathogens, and by persons with any infection and disease risk levels where this mode of transmission is known or suspected. But conversely, some situations will require ‘airborne precautions’. This would clearly be inappropriate within a risk-based infection prevention approach where the balance of risks, including disease incidence, severity, individual and population immunity and many other factors, need to be considered, inclusive of legal, logistic, operational and financial consequences that have global implications regarding equity and access.

In other words, we shouldn’t always try to control airborne disease. That would be so hard and annoying! The document then goes to state that “risks” have to be balanced and goes on to list a bunch of factors that are never considered when it comes to the spread of other pathogens in healthcare.

When it comes to the spread of norovirus in healthcare, do doctors weigh whether to wash their hands, based on the local levels of diarrhea? When it comes to the spread of bacterial wound infections, do doctors clean surfaces based on how deadly they think the wound will be? I mean, if it’s not going to kill you, why bother, right? When it comes to bloodborne illnesses like HIV, do doctors no longer test for it because it’s now a treatable disease, no longer a death sentence?

Or, when you apply this logic to any other type of infection, is it clear that this is an absurd attempt to continue evading liability for nosocomial airborne infections in healthcare, including SARS-COV-2? People should not be infected with diseases in hospitals. Period. Regardless of disease severity. Of course, SARS-COV-2 is also incredibly severe for hospitalized patients; in Australia, nearly 1 in 10 patients who caught COVID in hospitals in 2022 and 2023 died. And these events are far from rare. Of 206 patients admitted for strokes in a hospital in Japan, 44 were infected with COVID-19. 6 of them - or 13% - died. Globally, we see the same thing over and over again: lack of airborne infection control, high rates of nosocomial infections, high rates of patient death.

The WHO chose to incorporate “balance of risks”, “disease severity”, “immunity,” and the rest of its laundry list of “factors”, not because it expects infection control bodies to do serious risk assessments, but in order to provide cover for them not to do any such thing. Universal airborne infection control would be expensive and disruptive so the WHO simply gives disease control bodies a series of “outs”.

This is the international backdrop against which the US has also been updating infection control guidance. The CDC, like other national public health bodies, does not directly report to the WHO; the WHO does not have enforcement power over the CDC. However, guidance from the WHO is taken seriously at the CDC, and experts at the CDC also influence the WHO.

The WHO’s document constructs a mile-wide loophole for HICPAC to drive through. Although HICPAC provides no evidence whatsoever that the characteristics of SARS-COV-2 (or flu, or RSV for that matter) would justify dropping airborne precautions, the language in the WHO document exists to justify dropping them in the face of the ongoing, global pandemic. Despite SARS-COV-2 being a systemic, multi-organ disease with the potential to cause long-term disability, and highly fatal when contracted by vulnerable patients, culturally and politically, we are treating it like a cold. HICPAC members are not making scientific decisions, but political ones.

The science on disease transmission has advanced tremendously since 2020. In a world that actually wanted to implement what we’ve learned from COVID, this would mean dramatically safer care for patients and healthier workplaces for HCWs. Instead, HICPAC does the opposite, working to ignore the advancements in scientific knowledge and fighting to keep infection control as similar as possible to the outdated droplet model of the pre-pandemic era.

For example, they advise that N95 respirators should be worn for “new and emerging pathogens,” but make an irrational distinction between these and other viruses that are already in circulation. You know, the ones that are actually, currently infecting patients. “Emerging/new” isn’t a type of transmission, so shouldn’t denote a type of infection control.

Even the CDC balked at HICPAC’s initial draft, sending it back with pointed questions about this bizarre distinction and other inadequate protections. It asked for clarification, stating:

Another issue relevant to preventing transmission through air is to make sure that a draft set of recommendations cannot be misread to suggest equivalency between facemasks and NIOSH Approved respirators, which is not scientifically correct nor the intent of the draft language. Although masks can provide some level of filtration, the level of filtration is not comparable to NIOSH Approved respirators.

Why would HICPAC equate surgical masks with respirators? HICPAC’s draft was not designed to protect patients; it was designed to protect the status quo and allow hospitals to continue to infect patients with COVID and other airborne diseases. It’s likely that the CDC’s decision to push back on this claim was influenced by the massive outpouring of public outrage at the draft, which was seen in both the public comments submitted and read at HICPAC’s meetings.

Additionally, both OSHA, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, and NIOSH, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, agree with both the CDC and patients that surgical masks are not sufficient protection. N95s are required to control airborne infections.

However, despite months of pushback, the tears of suffering and scared patients, the word of the experts who design respirators, as well as the input of occupational safety leaders, HICPAC remains unmoved on the subject.

In a series of votes held last month, HICPAC stuck to their guns. Lisa Baum of the New York State Nurses’ Association was the sole dissenting member of the committee, as reported by Judy Stone of Forbes. She not only voted against the anti-science equating of surgical and N95 masks, but also against allowing COVID positive staff to return to work 3 days after a positive test. The 3-day time frame has absolutely no scientific basis, and return to work should be based on negative tests, not on an arbitrary time window or symptoms. Since a quarter of all COVID cases are asymptomatic, staff should also be asymptomatically screened; they aren’t because hospitals don’t want staff taking time off. Again, these are economic, not scientific, decisions.

Putting these two votes together, HICPAC has voted to allow sick, infectious, COVID+ staff to go to work without proper PPE and infect fellow HCW and patients, in hospitals without proper ventilation and filtration. Patients who are infected in hospitals using outdated droplet precautions will have a 10% risk of death. Coworkers- even if fully vaccinated- will have a significant risk of developing a long-term health condition following their acute infection.

At a time when hospitals remain crushed by the ongoing burden of both COVID and post-COVID health problems, failing to protect workers is a particularly short-sighted decision. Studies have already shown that HCWs suffer unusually high rates of Long COVID, with a recent one in the UK finding a whopping 33.6% reporting symptoms, and 7.4% of respondents reporting an official diagnosis.

These decisions not only mean infected doctors and nurses returning to work actively ill; they also mean that hospitals will continue to reinforce false information about how COVID spreads, purposely miseducating doctors and nurses in their employ to save money.

The members of HICPAC understand that surgical masks aren’t really the equivalent of N95s, they simply believe HCWs are more likely to wear surgicals (they’ve explicitly stated such; this is not, incidentally, how infection control decisions should be made). But this reasoning is not shared with patient-care level HCWs. Instead, HCWs are told that surgical masks are a sufficient infection control measure for COVID-19 when infectious. When an informed patient seeking care tries to correct them, they are greeted with condescension; after all, the doctor’s information comes directly from the CDC.

Disabled and immunocompromised people relate stories of medical professionals who believe COVID spreads via droplets, who wear surgical masks instead of N95s, who draw curtains to prevent the spread of COVID and other viruses; in other words, they are continuing to adhere to outdated precautions. This is unsurprising, because they have never received accurate guidance reflecting our updated technical knowledge about how SARS-COV-2 and other common viruses actually spread.

They’ve never received updated information because the medical system does not want to spend money to protect workers or patients.

At the end of the day, this story is not about droplets and airborne particles as much as it is about dollars and cents. What sounds like an in-the-weeds scientific debate, is no more than a common tale of industry greed. We know- and have known- exactly what it would take to protect patients in healthcare settings. Instead, our leaders sit back and watch as day after day, more unnecessary infections and deaths accumulate. As day after day, more healthcare workers acquire illnesses at work which lead to staff shortages, worse patient outcomes, long-term departures, and the loss of talented, highly trained people from the field.

All of us, patients, doctors, nurses, and other healthcare staff alike, deserve medical leadership that will value our rights to safety in these settings. We deserve medical leadership that won’t actively try to slow scientific progress, and instead will welcome its arrival. We deserve to enter a hospital knowing we won’t be infected and killed because HICPAC would rather allow airborne nosocomial infections to continue on its watch than spend money preventing them.

Right now, the biggest factor protecting hospitals as their negligence rolls on into year five is the ignorance of the public. Most people have no idea how COVID and other viruses spread, have no idea that it’s so dangerous to contract COVID as a vulnerable patient (thanks to years of normalizing propaganda), and may themselves believe that social distancing or curtains prevent infections. This public ignorance is a deliberate tool which enables continued public health negligence on multiple fronts. Continuing to educate ourselves and each other is resistance when the state relies on ignorance to tamp down resistance to policies of mass infection and death.

[alternativerunway]

Antonio Grimaldi Spring 2021 Haute Couture