#Spiritueuse Double Vanille
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Hiii I love your perfume recommendations but I am still a bit of a perfume virgin so can you pls pls pls recommend some of your fave vanilla scents? PS: I trust u blindly you’re my queen
hey love <3 here are some of my all time fave vanilla scents that i swear by. they’re absolutely delicious & guaranteed to turn heads —
1. tom ford tobacco vanille – my signature for a reason. luxurious blend of vanilla and tobacco with a bold, masculine edge.
2. diptyque eau duelle – a sophisticated vanilla with a hint of spices and smoky undertones
3. parfums de marly herod – slightly masculine vanilla with tobacco and cinnamon. rich and irresistible.
4. tom ford vanilla sex – a new favorite with an intense, seductive vanilla profile. so so mesmerizing and sultry
5. mica d’oro by valmont – vanilla with rich rum notes. it’s opulent and unforgettable.
6. jo malone vanilla & anise – light and fresh with a touch of spicy anise. perfectly balanced and so delightful
7. torn by henry rose – a beautifully balanced vanilla with notes of amber and rose, creates this warm and alluring scent!
8. spiritueuse double vanille by guerlain – rich, deep vanilla that’s sophisticated and glamorous. like wearing a velvet gown.
9. atelier des ors lune féline – a dark and seductive vanilla with spices, cardamom, and musk. absolutely magnetic!
10. frédéric malle musc ravageur – though not purely vanilla, this scent is a rich blend of musk, amber & vanilla. v sensual and bold.
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What do ikevill suitors smell like? PT.1
Hi little robins, I'm back with the "What do ___ suitors smell like?" series, Ikemen Villains edition. A promise is a promise so, here we have our favourite villanous boys. Let's discover the perfumes that our silly little cursed ones are most likely to wear. This is not entirely accurate - it's only based on their routes information and the vibe each boy gives me. Btw, this time I tried to put the same amount of perfumes on each boy.
William Rex
Our King of Hearts, The Self-Righteous Monarch, The King of Villains. As charming as he is ruthless. He wants people to express themselves. Eyes as red as his flags that will have you doing exactly what he wants. You can't fix him... But if you let him, he can absolutely make you worse. “Strip it all off… and fall into the darkness with me." He definitely smells intoxicating, almost like tempting you to fall into a dark world of sweet, poisonous sin.
Notes: Rose, strawberry, absinthe, incense, leather, patchouli, oud, amber and violet.
Perfumes he might like:
La Fille de Berlin - Serge Lutens - His favourite
Fate Man - Amouage
Back to Black - By Killian
Parfum Sacré - Caron
Noir Aphrodisiaque - By Killian - He layers this one with "La Fille de Berlin" when he goes out with you.
Portrait of a Lady - Frederic Malle
Harrison Gray
The Easygoing & Popular Lying Fox. The sweet-addicted book-lover. “I have the curse of the Lying Fox. You shouldn’t trust me so easily.” Shhh, you have a heart of gold. "With you, I can walk through the darkness forever... Because you are my sun.” Told you. He is just a silly playful fox who loves to tease you as much as he loves sweets and books. In his route he is always throwing minty caramels at us and eating sugar. So it feels safe to say that he smells like mint and sweets on top of a soft and woody base.
Notes: Heavy mint, bergamote, green apple, Tea leaves, lily of the valley, cardamom, light vanilla, cedarwood and white musk.
Perfumes he might like:
Eau de Minthé - Diptyque
Moscow mule - Juliette Has A Gun
Under the Lemon Trees - Maison Margiela
Herba Fresca - Guerlain
Wild Mint & Lavandin - Molton Brown - His favourite
White Jasmine & Mint - Jo Malone
Liam Evans
"Curiosity killed the cat. I wonder what'll end up killing me..." Our catboy depressed kitty. My precious boy. The Stage-Star. Someone who'll shower you in roses one moment and stab someone for you the next. That's love. He shines as bright as a star, charming those who see him without effort, he will do anything to win your praise, only yours. This sweet pookie smells like a field of flowers under the rain with a base of soft, sweet and warm vanilla.
Notes: Vanilla, pink pepper, violet leaves, cedarwood, jasmine, sandalwood, grey amber, musk and modern roses.
Perfumes he might like:
Daim Blond - Sarge Lutens
Grand Soir - Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Rose 31 - Le Labo
Spiritueuse Double Vanille - Guerlain - His favourite
Vanilla Cake - Montale
Velvet Vanilla - Mancera - He layers this one with "Spiritueuse Double Vanille" whenever he is going to see you.
Victor
The Man shrouded in mystery. The eccentric Crown's mom leader. Oh Rapunzel, let down your hair. I definitely need his hair routine, and probably you too. I don't know what else to say about him, I love this man more than I love myself. "Now, give into the darkness of your wicked heart" Whatever you want my dear. I feel like he is the "touch her and you die" type of boyfriend. A real provider. He even BAKES. And likes MAGIC TRICKS. AND HE DANCES!!!! Tell me something he can't do, I'll wait, and if you find something, I'll fight you. Anyways, back to the perfumes. He gives me the vibe of a gentleman with a luxurious and complex scent. I can feel warm, woody and sweet with some spice on top of a soft base.
Notes: Bergamot, black pepper, cinnamon, sandalwood, rose, oud, vanilla and amber.
Perfumes he might like:
Bois d'Armenie - Guerlain
Royal Oud - Creed
Interlude Man - Amouage - His favourite
Gentleman - Givenchy
Herod - Parfums de Marly
Orphéon - Diptyque
Roger Barel
He is called "The Egotistical Former Doctor" but it seems like those arms are in the middle, because I can't see the "egoistical" part. "He is selfish and has no regard for his own interests", okay, maybe he is a bit egoistical but... "The Queen's Cursed Forces, huh? No better research subjects than that.” We get it boy, you really want to study them so bad, and I volunteer as a tribute. As said, he is a doctor, so he is surrounded by chemicals, medicines and medicinal herbs, so he definitely like that, something aromatic and some spices. Since one of his hobbies is sampling imported beer, I thin we can all agree that he may smell also like alcohol and liqueur. He is manly, and so, he smells manly.
Notes: Black pepper, eucalyptus, thyme, liqueur, cedarwood, lavender, incense, leather and sandalwood.
Perfumes he might like:
Tam Dao - Diptyque
Terre d'Hermès - Hermès
Habit Rouge - Guerlain
The Cobra and The Canary - Imaginary Authors
Green Irish Tweed - Creed
Epic Man - Amouage - His favourite
Forest Lungs - The Nue Co.
Alfons Sylvatica
Mirror mirror on the wall, who's the fairest of them all? The Hedonistic Thrill Seeker. Don't let all his eloquent smooth-talking fool you, he has an skilled and scheming tongue. "Greetings, Miss Robin. Would you care to indulge in a dream with me today?" As elusive as a phantom, he prioritises ephemeral pleasures above everything else. Perpetually dishonest, he'll play you for a fool… and with you like a toy… Although he has already seduced me, and probably all the robins reading this, I still feel like there's something wrong with this man. We really know nothing about him, he is presented as seductive and mysterious, but I can feel that's just the surface of the lake, in the depths there seems to be a profound loneliness and sadness. What makes me feel like this is his last name. "Sylvatica" comes from the cientific name for the "forget-me-not" flowers (Myosotis sylvatica). This blue little flowers represents true love. A symbol of fidelity and being truthful to someone you love. So yes, he might be a player, but with lots of issues in his soul, and, beacuse of that, I think he may smell seductive but drained down, with lots of sadness. Like a field of forget-me-not flowera drenched in rain water.
Notes: Forget-me-not, violets, herbs, aquatic and ozonic notes, vetiver, incense, leather, amber, vanilla and cedarwood.
Perfumes he might like:
Un Jardin Sur Le Nil - Hermès
Gypsy Water - Byredo
Lys 41 - Le Labo
Avignon - Comme des Garçons
Aoud Leather - Montale
The Language Of Glaciers - Imaginary Authors - His favourite
And here it ends pt.1!!! Stay tuned for pt.2 my loves. See you all little robins.
#cybird ikemen#ikemen series#cybird#ikemen villains#villains#ikevil#william rex#harrison gray#liam evans#victor#roger barel#alfons sylvatica#little robin
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Horror Girls & Perfume Associations
Irena Dubrovna (Cat People): "Something warm and living" Ciara by Revlon (neroli, ylang ylang, amber)
Thomasin (The Witch): "When I sleep my spirit slips away from my body and dances naked with The Devil" Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain (incense, bulgarian rose, vanilla, cedar) layered over Dirt by Demeter Fragrance
Carrie White (Carrie): "They're all gonna laugh at you!" Heaven Sent by Dana (apple blossom, lily of the valley, musk)
Contess Elizabeth Bathory (Daughters of Darkness): "Love is stronger than death... even than life." La Panthere by Cartier (dried fruits, strawberry, rhubarb, rose, oakmoss)
Edith Cushing (Crimson Peak): "Ghosts are real, that much I know. I've seen them all my life..." Rose Of No Man's Land by Byredo (turkish red rose, raspberry bloom, amber, pink pepper)
Lucille Sharpe (Crimson Peak): "The horror was for love" Criminal of Love by By Kilian (saffron, turkish rose, tobacco)
Anna (Possession): "I feel nothing for no-one!" Fidji Eau de Toilette by Guy Laroche (aldehydes, cloves, amber, rose, vetiver)
Rosaleen (The Company of the Wolves): "I'd never let a man strike me" Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka (vanilla, praline, licorice)
Sandie (Last Night in Soho): "I've been in a prison all my life"Chant d'Arômes Eau de Toilette by Guerlain (honeysuckle, ylang ylang, vanilla)
Helen (Candyman): "Your death will be a tale to frighten children, to make lovers cling closer in their rapture" Shalimar Eau de Parfum by Guerlain (bergamot, iris, vanilla)
#the edith choice might be very controversial but i feel like she would love that#perfume#horror movies
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maybe if i make a post abt it i will follow through on playing w my toys more productively
i think for summer i want to get use out of or even finish my beloved zara grapefruit cologne and figure out an interesting citrus or similar to replace it with. maybe even an expensive one, the misery of bon parfumeur 003 and how it lasts 40 minutes even oversprayed kinda made me willing to pay a little more for a lemon water. i have the tom ford mandarin sample in my cart.
apart from that i'd like to figure out my delicate floral fem fantasy. i think i need to listen to my heart and take De Profundis off the table. a bottle is 375 euro and the funeral theme is sad and scary! like i'm not doing so good in the head right now and don't like the thought of wearing it (tossed moth and rabbit melancholia - after the lars von trier movie - out of my cart as well) and i dont need to be spending that kinda money on dubious exposure therapy. Bas de Soie is a solid favorite but it's also very expensive, inaccessible and only comes in the bell jar without an atomizer, so no reason to settle on it.
gotta look at the samples i have and my fragrantica "to try" shelves and see from whence i have approached these two desires already and what i maybe need to still consider.
my other definite fantasies are rose and vanilla, and those are kinda backburnered for now. the rose i think of as an eternal background quest bc i don't have a particular mood or style i'm looking for so the desire doesn't speak to a lack the way the citrus and floral do. vanilla is another thing. i have the lack and i have two objects i love and want to satisfy it - guerlain spiritueuse double vanille and xerjoff kemi. but they're both so expensive, kemi has the fecal undercurrent i love but worry about wearing, and SDV only comes in 200ml. anyway, like yeah i got some roses and vanillas on my radar (Etro ManRose, Olfactive Studio Vanilla Shot) but i'm not interested in exploring in that direction now.
finally, i think i'm making peace with just wanting to try interesting animalics when i happen upon them. like yeah we got VeT and Tellus at home, but i like what i like, and as opposed to the categories above, maybe this is not sth where i just want one thing to fill a niche, it's a field i enjoy playing in.
anyway, this is all very goofy, but what's been happening is i've had a scary time of it, i think bc i got a cold or sth and it triggered some stuff from last summer and made my contamination fear act up p bad and i would like a treat now
#perfume#also rotating Sex and the Sea in my mind#wondering where to fit it into the schema of desire - bc i do desire it
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i can’t decide if i should get spiritueuse double vanille or jasmin bonheur for my birthday. i love them both but i can only get one😭😭 opinions?
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ESTA GUERLAIN ES OTRO NIVEL Spiritueuse Double Vanille
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LOTD: Estee Lauder Pure Color (Matte) Lipstick in 868 Influential and Givenchy L’Interdit Lip Top Coat in Sparkling Night (Limited Edition, Holiday 2020). #Scentoftheday Spiritueuse Double Vanille EDP by Guerlain with Black Opium Le Parfum EDP by Yves Saint Laurent.
This Guerlain perfume used to be one of my favourites, even at that ridiculous price, I seriously considered buying it, however there’s this carbolic-soap type smell that I’m starting to discover is in the dna of all Guerlain L’Art & La Matiere fragrances, that I just can’t shake. My nose obviously hates it (that soap is I’m sure, not a pleasant memory or smell for anyone), but if my sample has gone bad in the time I’ve had it, I’m very glad I didn’t buy the full 100ml (comes in 100 or 200ml) as it would’ve been money down the drain (not even the biggest oversprayer can use 100ml in the time I’ve been using this sample). I noticed it last time and wanted to believe my nose was having an off day, but alas, it reeked today too, so the BO was an attempt at saving it (I sprayed a lot), it didn’t really help! 8 hours on, there’s the pleasant creamy vanilla from YSL (not as strong as it would usually be), but I’m so disappointed in the Guerlain one. I have another (new) sample, which I’ll give one last shot. Also not helped by the fact I wanted to try the lemon Replica one today, but it was so chilly (honestly like October weather in June), that I wasn’t feeling a Spring/Summer, citrus.
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The New Guerlain L'Art Et La Matiere - 2021
All change for Guerlain's L'Art Et La Matiere range -- #perfume
image: Guerlain A different video format for today’s post. Last week, I had the pleasure of being talked through the recently re-issued Guerlain L’Art Et La Matiere collection, and I shared the experience live on Instagram. Highlights, if I can use so grand a word, include: the ‘quiz’ the brand will now use to match each customer to their ideal scent; initial thoughts on the latest additions,…
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#2021#Bois D&039;Armenie#Cuir Beluga#Delphine Jelk#Guerlain#IGTV#Instagram#L&039;Art & La Matiere#London#reissue#Rose Cherie#Santal Pao Rosa#Spiritueuse Double Vanille#Thierry Wasser#video#vlog#vlogger
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do u have any favorite perfumes for autumn?
yeah of course!! when i think autumn my first instinct is warm vanilla gourmands personally so perhaps un bois vanille which almost has a maple syrup quality to it to my nose so its very fitting🙂 and then obviously stuff like tihota by indult/jovoy fire at will & remember me/guerlain angelique noire & spiritueuse double vanille/mfk gentle fluidity gold which are all my favs but also very expensive unfortunately. maybe for some less expensive recs theres nemat vanilla musk and kayali vanilla 28 or outremer vanille? and then obviously your ambers like shalimar opium etc (i dont tend to like very ambery fragrances so i dont have many recommendations in that category im sorry). and then straying away from gourmands i love something like hermes l’ombre des merveilles its very reminiscent of chilled air and fallen leaves its very cold and warm at the same time..tea and incense. one of my favs its so lovely the whole eau des merveilles line could probably work. ummmm ok now im drawing a blank LOL honestly aside from my gourmands i am so much more of a summer fragrance girl i just looked thru my collection and its all light bright citrus spring and summer stuff…but i hope this helps nonetheless ok mwah
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Perfume Recommendations Masterpost - Part Two.
Look at your Venus-Rising sign combo.
Note: If you like something by the description, try it. Almost all of these are ones that I love and recommend.
Aries-Gemini: Florabotanica (Balenciaga) A fresh, green, rose perfume. Lively and adventurous, spring in a human form. Reminiscent of the time when plants and flowers grow back again into life.
Aries-Libra: Pure XS (Paco Rabanne) Vanilla pop corn. Playful, popular and flirtacious. Berry lips and a big smile. Cola by Lana Del Rey, Megan Fox in Jennifer’s Body.
Aries-Capricorn: 24 Faubourg (Hermes) This is what a classy yet rebellious heiress smells like. A New York city aristocrat living in a luxurious penthouse.
Aries-Aquarius: Rush (Gucci) A cool girl, who does her own thing, is very authentic and individualistic yet everyone likes and admires her. Red lipstick in a bottle.
Aries-Pisces: Eclat d’Arpège (Lanvin) Spring walk in a garden full of flowers in a bottle. Lilac, tea leaves, peony. For the person with a childlike spirit and courage, a dreamer.
Taurus-Gemini: Pure Nectar (Issey Miyake) Honey covered roses. Reminiscent of spring, a new life, but also home and comfort.
Taurus-Libra: Si (Giorgio Armani) The prettiest scent. Woody, aromatic vanilla that will be loved by everyone. Gives both confidence to charm people and comfort.
Taurus-Capricorn: By the Fireplace (Maison Margiela). Smells like a winter vacation in a fancy cabin. Woody scent with comforting and sweet spices.
Taurus-Pisces: L'Instant Magic (Guerlain) Takes you inside of a fairytale, a story that happened a long time ago yet it still feels familiar and inviting. Iris, almonds and vanilla.
Gemini-Gemini: L'Imperatrice (D&G) Eating watermelon at a summer party. A fragrance for everyone's favourite fun, outgoing friend, ready to accompany you to every summer adventure.
Gemini-Virgo: Whispers in the Library (Maison Margiela) Woody vanilla. The comfort of isolating yourself with a pile of books for days while it’s raining outside.
Gemini-Sagittarius: Light Blue (D&G) Easygoing lemon-woody scent, good for all summer occasions and all types of fun. She is chill and up for anything.
Cancer-Cancer: La vie est belle (Lancome) The sweetest perfume for the sweetest humans. Comforting, likeable and reliable reminiscent of being in a fancy candy store.
Cancer-Leo: Mon Paris (YSL) The sweetest summer fruits and patchouli. For someone sweet and generous, a good friend and lover with the warmest heart.
Cancer-Scorpio: Private Accord (Boss) A sweet orange covered in chocolate in a bottle. Comforting and reminiscent of sweet desserts and private moments during the winter months.
Cancer-Sagittarius: L'Initial (Guerlain) Iris, vanilla, orange. Sweet and adventurous, nostalgic for the past but hopeful for the future. Reminiscent of the South of France or Italy.
Cancer-Capricorn: Narciso (Narciso Rodriguez) Soft, but definitely has character. Perfect for someone ambitious who also wants to stay close to home and their roots. Comforting, but not
Cancer-Pisces: This is her (Zadig & Voltaire) Chestnut-vanilla flavoured whipped cream. A perfume for absolute angels with kind hearts.
Leo-Leo: Baccarat Rouge 540 (Maison Francis Kurkdjian) Epitome of the modern, glamorous woman. She’s popular, wealthy and her presence is always felt by everyone. Head turner.
Leo-Virgo: Red Roses (Jo Malone) A big, fresh bouquet of roses. Fancy and classy at the same time.
Leo-Libra: La Panthere (Cartier) A modern Elizabeth Taylor. Class, sex appeal, a strong character hidden behind a soft voice and a beautiful scent.
Leo-Sagittarius: Nilang (Lalique) Fun and adventurous. A fancy sweets&fruits feast at a summer party.
Leo-Pisces: Le Parfum (Elie Saab). If Jolene was a perfume. Sweet and charismatic, quite shy but you will feel her presence. A sunny person that lights up the whole room.
Virgo-Virgo: Lazy Sunday Morning (Maison Margiela) A soft, clean, musky-rose scent. The way the skin would smell after taking a bath in a rose scented bath bomb. Sophisticated, put-together and perfect.
Virgo-Aquarius: Jazz Club (Maison Margiela). Strong tobacco, rum, vanilla, sweet pepper. Reminds me of someone who loves books, Old Hollywood, drinking and socializing with smart people only.
Virgo-Pisces: Pure Poison (Dior) White flowers, sandalwood and orange. The rational dreamer. A nymph with flowers on her head.
Libra-Libra: Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel) Modern, trendy and young, but put-together. A mix of Blair and Serena (Gossip Girl).
Libra-Capricorn: Spiritueuse Double Vanille (Guerlain) A luxurious smokey, wooody, vanilla scent, A femme fatale in a 1940s movie with a drink and a cigar near a fireplace.
Libra-Pisces: Amethyst (Lalique) A cold, berry cocktail. Sweet, but keeps her distance. The innocent heartbreaker.
Scorpio-Scorpio: Addict (Dior) A sexy, strong vanilla scent. Mysterious and captivating, under each layer you find more. Reminds me of a b&w boudoir photoshoot in La Perla lingerie.
Sagittarius-Sagittarius: Eau des Merveilles (Hermes) Perfectly captures the spirit of the adventurous soul, a traveller open to every culture and every person, a person with big curiosity for the world and its secrets. If you want to feel like a pirate, try the Bleue version.
Sagittarius-Capricorn: Jicky (Guerlain) She’s classy and playful, she’s a seductress with a child-like spirit and curiosity. She’s like Bardot in ”And God created woman”.
Sagittarius-Pisces: Mémoire d’une Odeur (Gucci) An older fairy, living in a small cabin in the woods surrounded by herbs and flowers, away from humanity.
Capricorn-Capricorn: Santal 33 (Le Labo) Smells like someone successful living in New York. Modern, but distinctive and different. Definitely has character.
Capricorn-Pisces: Shalimar Souffle (Guerlain) Classy, but soft and quite youthful and modern. If the perfume of an old heiress was modernized in a special way for her granddaughter to wear it and feel the nostalgia.
Aquarius-Aquarius: Womanity(Mugler) A recognizable and unique fragrance, very different from everyone else. Fig and caviar. Not everyone understand it, but those who do are lucky enough.
#astrology#zodiac signs#scorpio#leo#libra#aquarius#aries#cancer#capricorn#pisces#virgo#gemini#taurus#sagittarius#venus#rising signs#ascendant#perfumes#fragrance#fashion#beauty
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L'ART & LA MATIÈRE — Spiritueuse Double Vanille
incense, pink pepper, bergamot // cedar, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine // vanilla, benzoin, rum
#have you ever seen such beauty#i really can’t wait to go back into the city to sniff it#Flakon#guerlain
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silky woods by goldfield and banks is the perfect scent for what youre looking for. i own this one and it smells so good. also guerlain spiritueuse double vanille, from what ive heard, its a delicious scent. i want to get a sample to try myself.
;^; thank you so very much, i’ll most definitely look into them, i owe you my life 🥺
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Guerlain L’Art et la Matière Spiritueuse Double Vanille
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This is so boozy! The initial spray smelled like a cocktail drink infused with natural vanilla, not the artificial vanilla that smells like sago't gulaman or your high school classmate; it's sweet, not cloying, and has that usual smoothness that already perfected by Guerlain. I guess the word "masherep" was made for it, haha! The booziness subsides after few minutes and what's left is the natural powdery vanilla scent that wraps your skin until the end of the day. This is an intimate frag tho; you can get a whiff of it in such a closer inspection. It's not loud, and it doesn't give a fabulous scent trail. It's only you or/with your loved one who can savor this aphrodisiac moment. Definitely, I will reserve this for Valentine's! HAHAHA
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now that im out of ELDO Tom of Finland idk what to wear to smell straightforwardly attractive.
i'm out of all my vanilla decants as well or it would have been Spiritueuse Double Vanille (gorgeous. the vibe to me is femme fatale, but she's being good to you) or El Born (rougher but warm, inviting, disarming).
all my beautiful leathers are out i think, they're not easily appealing like that. Vierges et Toreros my beloved or TF Tuscan Leather (or the dupe) or Masque Milano Russian Tea.
Looked at some musks, Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras is very aggressive in the opening, but i'm sitting with it, i remember it softening up, though that might just be me buying into the name and marketing. giving mothballs on my arm rn. Atelier Cologne Musc Imperial is straight up not working for me either, one of those very curdled smelling figs (see also Le Labo The Noir, the Vilhelm Parfumerie figs).
The real contender I think is Liquides Imaginaires Tellus for a bit of an illusion that flips btwn interesting-ish earthy men's cologne and dirty furry piss animal. wish I still had some of Muscs Koublai Khan as well, that one is very soft and dirty, but might lean body odour in a way i'm not that comfortable wearing. Tellus with a very light hand might be it, especially since i'm going for like a masc thing.
Alternatively! the zara grapefruit cologne, that just smells nice, everyone likes that. it's not high-pitched like my other summery fruit-adjacents so it passes for sexy or whatever. god that might actually be it, wish it wasnt lmao
regardless, i need a roughish low-pitched vanilla kinda deal i think, maybe not ToF again, but i'm experiencing a real gap in my wardrobe
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So Delicious!
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Vanilyanın kokusal karşılığı benim için konfor demek. Ama bu konfor tatlı, yapış yapış bir koku olarak algılanmasın. Bilinenin aksine vanilya zaten öyle çok tatlı kokmaz. Doğalı odunsu, isli ve şarap tadında meyvemsi bir aromaya sahip. Bu meyvemsi yönü bazen çok itici olabiliyor. Hayal edilen ağız sulandırıcı vanilya kokusu profilini istenmeyen yöne çekiyor. Mesela koku uzmanı ve yazar Luca Turin doğal vanilyanın iyi kokmadığını ve kitabında Guerlan'in Spiritueuse Double Vanille parfümünü yorumlarken parfümün vanilyanın bütün kötü taraflarını yansıttığını söylüyor. Bende katılmıyor değilim bu yoruma. Vanilya notunu vermek için çoğunlukla ethyl vanillin, vanillin, methyl vanillin gibi sentetikler kullanılıyor. Bu sentetikler hem doğal vanilyadan kat ve kat daha ucuz hem de daha kabul edilebilir bir kokuya sahip. Ayrıca lezzetli kokularıyla insanda yeme isteği uyandırıyor.
Birçok kişi vanilya kokusunu sevmez. Kimisi için çok şekerli, kimisi için baş ağrısı sebebi olabiliyor. Vanilyayı bu kadar ağır kılan onunla beraber kullanılan notalar aslında. Karamel (Maltol, Caramel Furanone, methyl cyclopentanone, ethyl Maltol, diacetyl ), meyve notaları (raspberry ketone, lactones, pear ester, aldehydes, maltol isobutyrate, ethyl carporate ), dumanlı notalar (phenols) gibi ve birçok nota vanilya akorunu destekler, ona kalıcılık sağlar ama son derece ağır ve yayılımı yüksek notalardır. Gurme vanilya parfümleri genelde meyve, karamel ve baharat notalarıyla kombine ediliyor. Formül yapısına paçuli, sandal ağacı, sedir ağacı ya da tolu ve Peru balsamı gibi parfümün ana karakterinin dışında ama ona derinlik sağlayacak notalar da eklenebiliyor. Ben havadar ve yumuşak vanilya parfümlerini seviyorum. Guerlain Angelique Noir uzun süredir kullandığım ve bana iyi hissettiren meyveli bir vanilya parfümü. Hem kendimi iyi hissediyorum hem de bolca övgü alıyorum bu parfümü kullandığım zaman. Angelique Noir unutulmaz bir parfüm olmasa bile kararsız kaldığım zamanlarda benim için bir "safe zone" parfümü. Yeni keşfettiğim ve çok sevdiğim Bond No. 9 New York Nights markanın en havalı parfümü olabilir. Koyu, lacivert tonlarında şişe tasarımı göz alıcı. Meyveli (muzlu puding) üst notalar, kalbinde beyaz çiçek buketi ve karamelize edilmiş paçuliyle desteklenmiş alt notalar o kadar lezzetli ve havalı ki… New York Nights "ben daha gelmeden parfümüm önden buyursun" diyen herkesin sahip olması gerektiği bir tasarım. Creed Sublime Vanille yoğun vanilya kokularını sevmeyenler için tasarlanmış sanki. Misk ve vanilya ile tamamlanan alt notalar narenciye esanslarıyla açılmış. Sublime Vanille derin bir parfüm değil. Şaşırtmıyor ve farklı bir akor ortaya sunmuyor. Ama vanilya kokusunu sevmeyen birçok kişinin fikrini değiştirebilecek bir parlaklık ve hafifliğe sahip. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Gold tam bir konfor parfümü. Sizi sıcacık bir kazak gibi sizi sarıp sarmalayan ve hiç bırakmayacak güveni aşılayan bir güzellik. Parfüm oldukça dengeli, hiçbir nota sırıtmıyor. Sublime Vanille kadar havadar ama ondan çok daha ayağı yere basan, ciddi bir parfüm. Şekerli, yoğun, yapış yapış vanilya kokularını sevmeyenler mutlaka bu parfümü denemeli. Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille muhtemelen en farklı ve kullanımı zor vanilya parfümü olabilir. Ben tam bir gourmand parfüm hastasıyım diye gafil avlanmayın, sizi ters köşe yapacak haberiniz olsun. Yoğun, isli, biraz kirli ve derin bir koku. Ama bir o kadar lezzetli, farklı ve benzersiz bir parfüm. Türkiye'de satışı yok. Serge Lutens satan noktalarda bu parfümle karşılaşırsanız mutlaka deneyin.
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“Spiritueuse double vanille” by Guerlain.
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