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#Sealant cutting blades
multifitblades · 11 months
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Titanium Blade at Multi Fit Blades
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Don't miss out on the 1-3/4" Wide Titanium Bi-Metal Universal Quick Release Saw Blade by Multi fit blades available at just US $10.99.
This titanium blade is perfect for cutting wood, sheet metal, screws, nails, plastic, drywall, fiberglass, acrylics, laminates, and more.
With its titanium coating, this saw blade offers an extra layer of cutting tooth protection, making it ideal for demolition and deep plunge cutting of wood with embedded nails or screws.
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hapfish · 3 months
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Hey! I'm making a F!Leo cosplay and I was wondering if you have any advice for how to do the shell? The plastron, specifically. Yours was amazing! Ty xx
Yeah of course!!! Luckily the rise plastrons are very geometric so its pretty easy to make a pattern from it! I dont have pictures of early steps so pls bear with me <3 info n pictures below the cut
First thing i did was make a pattern of my torso with plastic wrap and tape so i could see the curve of my stomach and chest. Cant say this helped a TON, but i cant imagine things in my head, so it helped me conceptualize the size and dimensions i would need the front panels to be to cover my torso.
Next i started sketching small patterns for what the cut outs may look like. DEFINITELY make a paper pattern, this took a lot of trial and error and you dont want to waste too much foam. I cannot for the life of me find my paper patterns unfortunately, but hopefully you can see part of where im coming from with the detailed pictures of the plastron!! I made patters for 1/2 of the plastron, and flipped the patters over to make the other half mirrored and symetrical.
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Now the cutting. I used .7mm foam (i think?? I got it from micheals. Joann fabrics has some but only small sheets. If you want less seams you should get the bigger ones, or buy massive sheets online. EVA foam isnt too hard to find, but make sure your density and width is appropriate for what youre making. When actually cutting the pieces out, some cuts will be flat while others may work best at an angle. I used mostly 90* and 45* angles to make clean edges and corners.
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Bear with me bc the pictures in this next part are kinda uglie </3 ill explain why later.
For matching the curve of the body, i used a fresh blade and made shallow triangle cuts on the backside of the foam as can be seen here:
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It would have worked better if the chest pieces were also vurved by i was on a time crunch and didnt have the time to make a 3rd or fourth plastron (yes this was a second fully completed attempt orz). Im also a bigger dude so it may be easier if your torso is smaller. I also had the benefit of making my pants from scratch (using a demon slayer uniform pattern that i altered) so i made the waistband big enough to tuck the shell into, which helped with keeping it curved around my body.
(This but only applies to future leo and i did post gluing the pieces together, but for his Top Surgery Scars™️ i cut into the chest at a 45*angle, then glued those pieces back onto the back side to seal the cut)
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For gluing, i tried a whole lot of types but jothing worked as well as cement glue. It is toxic tho so make sure you do it outside or with good ventilation, and wear gloves/a mask. I did two layers on each edge then stuck the edges together, 3 if i noticed the foam absorbing it to much. Make sure you take the gluing slow and really put pressure on the pieces to lock them together. Follow the instructions and youll do fine.
For painting, i did 2 layers of modge podge, 1-2 priming layers (depends on if foam is white or black to start), and then whatever layers you need for a smooth coat of color. I topped it off with modgepodge again to seal it, but that may not have been the best idea for the following reasons....
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EW YUCK. WHY IT LOOK LIKE THAT.
Well. It didnt always. Turns out when youre wearing approx 3 laters in the summer then cover your body with insulating foam, the heat and moisture makes the modgepodge MELT. and like i said before, this bottom portion was tucked into my pants so it did not breathe. I have yet to even try to find a solution but just keep it in mind when making your cosplay (and if you find a solution PLEASE LET ME KNOW! My one idea was tryna find a sealant that wont melt (obv) but idk what that would be)
And FINALLY. how to secure it to the body suit!! I used snaps!! So easy and nice (besides the melting issue but thats a different thing entirely.) They never came off or gave me problems (minus the melting) and made the shells easy to transfer/travel with and put on.
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(Heres a pic of them on the suit sewn in by hand, and above you can see them on the shell itself.)
All in all, The plastron was so so hard and im honestly still not happy with it, planning to remake it before i wear him again. Please show me your cosplay when you finish it, id love to see!! Please lemme know if you have any other questions!! 🐢💙
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frogshunnedshadows · 8 months
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I'm declaring these finished. Forgot to drill some holes in the Sector 7 sign, but no big deal. Replica Blade Runner license plate & street sign. Cut vinyl on black plastic for the license plate, spraypaint on white plastic for the street sign. Plus multiple rounds of hand-applied acrylic paint washes for weathering. Very pleased with how dirty they look. Not perfect, but maybe that just adds to their charm. Not shown is the parking meter sign, which needs another good coat of matte clear sealant, and then sanding the corners, and then the painted weathering : / Waiting for the weather to cooperate on that one.
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AAAAAAAAA ITS DONEEE
I measured it and this thing is fucking 6’6-
(materials and process underneath vv)
Materials used:
-3 pvc pipe segments with the screw adapters
-Eva foam : 2mm, 5mm, 10mm
-Foam clay
-Thermoplastic beads
-Metal wire
-Various superglues
-Spray paint
-Acrylic paint
~~ The Pvc Segments:
I started off with three 2ft pvc segments and glued the cross adaptor on the top, then proceeded to hack off and move around pieces as I saw fit. For the top segment I believe I cut off 5in, then glued 3 to the top of the cross pipe and tossed the remaining 2in. I also cut off 8in on the bottom to make way for the spike which is around 5.5in.
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(The original pipes, I didn’t really have any other progress pics of this part)
~~ The Main Blade:
I started by going into FireAlpaca and separating the halberd from Sinclair’s sprite, then broke it up into various pieces and used Rasterbator to size up the blade. After that I printed it out, assembled it, and transferred it to freezer paper to adjust it as I saw fit.
After that I cut out two pieces of 10mm foam and glued them together as the main blade, then added the details with some 2mm foam I got from Walmart I think? I proceeded to hack away chunks of foam with Eva foam with a box cutter (and almost sliced my hand open in the process) before sanding the absolute crap out of it)
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Once it was all sanded and I was content with it I took my heat gun and sealed all the foam and got rid of the fluffy texture created by the sanding and filled some of the gaps with foam clay.
After the blade I was done I stuck some wire into it, then shoved that wire through some thermoplastic beads I had melted and put in the pipe, and superglued it. It really wasn’t wanting to stay so I added more thermoplastic around the outside and proceeded to add more superglue (Gorilla and Flex Seal glue if I recall correctly) which has seemed to help it stay on. It’s not 100% stable but as long as I’m careful with it I’m ok.
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The Spikes:
Just like the blade, I made the pattern based the sprite itself. Using the line tool in FireAlpaca I traced over the top spike and the side spike and got the pattern from that. I resized and reshaped them in a Google doc before printing them out. After that I traced two of the spike pieces, cut one in half vertically and glued them together. After that I used small triangular pieces of foam to connect the corners and with that the skeleton was done (I added wire into the bottom spike for support as it is going to be bashing the floor a lot). i then filled the skeletons with foam clay, making sure to get all the sides even and filled completely.
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(I forgot to add the triangle pieces in the bottom spike until later)
Once I sanded them and attacked them with the same method as the blade the base was done!
~~ Painting:
In order to create a stable base to paint on I shoved three wooden dowels into a fertilizer box and hot glued them down. I then broke the halberd down and put each piece on the spike before spraying it with multiple coats of plastidip.
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(Note- I taped off the parts that would be screwed down as I was afraid that the paint would interfere with the threading. I don’t know if it would actually cause any problems but I didn’t feel like risking it)
Once that was completely dry I sprayed it with three coats of Rustolem Black High Gloss paint.
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Finally, I dry brushed everything with silver paint and added the lettering, using some black paint to mimic the paint chipping.
Once I added two coats of Rustolem clear sealant it was done!! The overall process took about two weeks and I’m quite happy with how it turned out! I may or may not have injured myself a lot during the process because I’m stupid but it was quite a fun project, and I do have more Project Moon props planned for the future such as Don’s lance and Argalia’s scythe. Once I finish my full cosplay I’ll make a post similar to this one :)
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SWORDTEMBER '24, DAY 10: SPACEFARING
{Late cuz I was sick again yesterday} Item ID: TP-2410 Item Name: Unlicensed Starblade Category: B-2 Origin Point: Telloran, Katal Owner: BigTime Coldwave Productions (Manufacturer) Description: An unofficial replica of the main character’s weapon in the original Celestial Conquests movies. The main portion of the item is the hilt and beam emitter, a combined length of 22 cm. Intended to mimic fictional materials, the item is a mix of metal and printed plastic, coated in paint and sealant. On the bottom section of the handle is a battery compartment. A switch by the guard activates the laser blade, while a slide-switch can be locked into several different intensity settings (the lowest prevents the item from causing anything more than mild skin irritation, while the highest can potentially cause serious burns and cut through weak materials, but is advertised as being for a [quote]: novelty camping experience). By default the blade is purple, and although modifications for other colors were produced, issues with licensing prevented them from ever reaching the market. Cataloger’s Notes: There are currently 10k (plus or minus a few)  units of these damn things hanging out in the loading bay. Chances are, if the lawsuit pans out, they’ll all be either incinerated or recycled. Maybe… Maybe nobody would mind if I took one for myself. It’s not like our boss has never done it, and I’ve got dirt on him anyway. Besides, Naomi says Celestial Conquests is her brother’s favorite multimedia franchise… he’d probably love one of these, even if it’s not officially licensed.
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This day can’t get any better. First, Cynthia had spent the morning with her girlfriend, before they came into town together (bypassing the terrible public transit outside her apartment). Then, she arrived at work just in time to watch her less-than-beloved boss get yelled at by an angry executive over his last-minute confiscation of a huge shipment of goods. Not just any goods, but a bunch of replicas from one of the galaxy’s most popular media franchises. Apparently the licensing deal fell through… after the product had already been manufactured.
Cynthia doesn’t even bother pretending to understand how exactly that works.
All she knows is that now she gets to catalog one of the replicas, and although that doesn’t mean playing with it, she does get to admire the craftsmanship, as well as test the claimed functionality. Hence why she’s in the office kitchen, two of her coworkers watching, attempting to use the laser sword to make toast. Thus far, it had worked surprisingly well at cutting the loaf of bread.
“I already told you a thousand times- no, don’t you dare interrupt me!” A voice shouts from a few rooms away, the sound carrying through the vents. Quite the design flaw, for employees in the lounge to be able to hear the boss in his office, especially now that he’s handling a sensitive call. That’s exactly why they’re here, though, instead of trying this in the room meant for testing. Everybody wants to hear their boss getting chewed out by one of the only people who’s a bigger asshole than him. “Yes, yes, I… I understand. But there are certain procedures that need to be followed. If you would just listen to me for five seconds, I could explain-”
As the bossman continues to get yelled at, Cynthia’s coworkers start getting out the other sandwich ingredients. Today they would get lunch and a show.
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ainyan · 2 years
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Removing bandages
“Can you help me?” Kali looked up as she unbuttoned her coat, frowning as Thancred picked at the bandages wound around his chest. “She fastened these tight.”
Crossing to him, she reached out to smooth her hands across the pale fabric. “Thancred, you’re still healing,” she said patiently, batting his hands away as he tried to pick at the sealant again. “You need to keep your wounds covered.”
He scowled. “I don’t need these damn bandages, Kali.”
From the mottled bruising she could see on his golden skin, from the patterns it made as it spread from beneath the rough cloth across his chest and stomach, she knew better. “Not for long,” she temporized, then fell into silence at his citrine-eyed glare.
Pulling away, he swung towards the room’s exit. “If you won’t help me, Ryne will,” he snarled, reaching for the handle. Stunned, she almost let him go, then darted forward to slap her hand against the wood, preventing him from opening the door. “Let me go.”
She could tell from his too-even tone that he was barely holding back his temper. “Thancred, please…”
“Let me go,” he repeated, his voice heated. “I don’t want these damn bandages. I don’t want anything between us but…” He clamped his lips shut, but too late.
Oh. “Thancred,” she murmured, undone, and moved to slide her arms around him from behind, resting her forehead between his shoulder blades.
Weary, exhausted and body-sore and heart-sick, he slumped forward, leaning against the door. “I’m sorry, Kali,” he whispered. “I just need - I can’t…”
Her fingers spread across his bandaged chest, then she began to gently remove the bandages, unwinding them slowly from about his battered torso. As the pale cloth peeled away and fluttered down to the floor, it revealed a meshwork of bruises and cuts spanning across his breast and back, mute evidence of the ferocity of the fight in Lakeland. Tears slid down her cheeks as her lips fluttered across his skin, brushing each bruise, caressing each contusion. 
He sucked in a breath and closed his eyes as she made her way around him, covering every available ilm in kisses, leaving behind a sensation of healing warmth from the aether that slid beneath his skin, bolstering the healing he’d already received.
She circled around him, ducking under his arm and coming up between him and the door, her mouth gentle and tender as she traced the bruising from his ribs across his breastbone, and up to his throat. When she finally lifted her head, he lowered his, gazing down into her eyes. Then she lifted up on her toes, and he bent his shoulders, and their mouths met in a kiss as much about healing her as him.
As much about healing them.
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My OCs are always getting into trouble. What kind of recovery are they undergoing?
Thank you for the ask!
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shrikeseams · 11 months
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Trick or treat :)
Happy Halloween! You get ... How To Make A Decorative Tea Cannister! (Done on metal with paper, but the method should also work with fabric and/or on a glass container.)
Materials
1 tea metal canister (or more) (glass should also be fine)
12x12 piece of lightweight decorative paper per canister
cardstock and scrapbook sheets probably too heavy
1 piece paper covers 1 7" tall canister
A fat quarter of quilting cotton should also do the trick
E6000 spray adhesive
4 wide rubber bands
Spray sealant
Pencil
Scissors and/or rotary cutter
Newspaper or large scrap paper to protect work surface
(Consider coating any decorative details like label holders etc in petroleum or similar to prevent the glue from sticking.)
Lie the canister (with lid on) on the decorative paper and mark the canisters height across the width of the paper. Label this part the base in pencil on the reverse side and cut.
Remove the canister lid. On the remnant piece of decorative paper, trace the lid. Leave at least 1/4" extra space all the way around (sketch it in if you like). Cut this out, including the extra space. Snip through the extra space to but not though the lid trace, so that the extra space forms flaps that can be folded in.
On the protective paper, spray the lid paper generously with spray adhesive and smooth it onto the lid. Fold the flaps over the edge of the lid. Once it's all smoothed out, secure the paper in place with a rubber band. Let th lid sit for a while until partially dry, or until you can remove the rubber band without wrinkles or peeling.
Once the lid is partially dry, remove the rubber band and put the lid securely back on the canister. The next steps will treat the canister as one piece.
Lay the base piece of decorative paper on the protective paper and spray liberally with e6000. (It will take longer to dry, but it's easier to smooth out air bubbles if damp.) Wrap the paper around the canister, from base to lid, and smooth out. Secure with rubber bands to dry. The seam where the lid meets the base should be fully covered, and the flaps from the lid piece should be covered.
Before the paper dries, trace the seam where the lid meets the base with you thumbnail or a pencil so that the seam is visible.Do not try to cut free the lid or any other details until the paper is fully dried. It will not cut cleanly.
Let dry overnight.
Slice open the seam between the lid and base with a craft blade or box cutter.
Coat the dried paper exterior with the spray sealant and let dry, per sealant instructions.
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raghavdandonauk · 3 months
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Choosing the Natural Stone for Your Circular Patio
Creating your ideal circular patio involves several key steps and considerations to ensure both aesthetic appeal and functional durability. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you plan, select materials, prepare, install, and maintain your circular patio:
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Planning Your Circular Patio
Define Your Needs:
Determine how you'll use the patio (e.g., dining, lounging, entertaining).
Consider integration with existing garden features and pathways.
Choose the Right Location:
Select a spot that receives adequate sunlight and complements your garden layout.
Ensure easy access from the house and appropriate drainage.
Selecting Materials
Natural Stone Options:
Indian Sandstone: Known for its variety in color and texture, suitable for traditional and contemporary designs.
Limestone: Offers a smooth, consistent surface with natural hues.
Slate: Provides a sleek, modern appearance with distinctive layered textures.
Granite: Known for its durability and speckled appearance, ideal for high-traffic areas.
Considerations:
Durability: Choose materials based on their ability to withstand weather conditions and foot traffic.
Style: Match the stone's color and texture to your garden’s aesthetic.
Preparing for Installation
Clearing and Excavation:
Mark the area for your circular patio and remove any existing turf or debris.
Excavate the site to a depth that allows for the base material and the thickness of the paving stones.
Base Preparation:
Level the excavated area using a spirit level or laser level to ensure a flat surface.
Create a stable base using a layer of compacted hardcore followed by a bedding layer of sharp sand or mortar mix.
Installing Circular Paving Slabs
Laying the Center Stone:
Start from the center point of your circle and work outward.
Place the first stone accurately using a string or chalk line to maintain alignment.
Arranging Paving Slabs:
Arrange the paving slabs in a concentric circle, ensuring uniform spacing between each stone.
Tap each stone gently into place with a rubber mallet to secure it in the bedding material.
Cutting and Edging:
Use a diamond blade saw to cut stones as needed for the circle’s perimeter.
Install edging stones around the outer edge of the circle to provide a neat finish and prevent movement of the slabs.
Finishing Touches and Maintenance
Jointing and Sealing:
Fill the joints between paving slabs using a jointing compound or mortar mix.
Brush off excess material and mist the surface lightly with water to set the joints.
Surface Cleaning and Sealing:
Clean the surface of the patio with a mild detergent and water to remove any stains or debris.
Apply a suitable sealant to protect the stones from weathering and enhance their natural colors.
Regular Maintenance:
Sweep the patio regularly to keep it free from leaves and dirt.
Reapply sealant periodically as recommended by the manufacturer to maintain protection and appearance.
Additional Tips
Professional Advice: Consider consulting a landscaping professional for complex designs or if you're unsure about installation techniques.
Safety: Wear appropriate protective gear, especially when cutting stones or handling heavy materials.
Environmentally Friendly Options: Explore permeable paving solutions that allow water to drain naturally, reducing runoff and supporting sustainable garden practices.
By following these steps and considerations, you can create a beautiful and functional circular patio that enhances your outdoor living space. Each decision—from material selection to installation technique—contributes to the overall quality and longevity of your patio, ensuring years of enjoyment and aesthetic appeal in your garden or backyard.
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jamesmiles1 · 3 months
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The Versatility of Cutter Knives: Essential Tools for Various Applications
Cutter knives, also known as utility knives or box cutters, are indispensable tools found in homes, workplaces, and industries. Their versatility, ease of use, and precision make them suitable for a wide range of tasks. This article explores the various uses of cutter knives and why they are considered essential tools.
1. Packaging and Shipping
One of the most common uses of cutter knives is in packaging and shipping. They are perfect for:
Opening Boxes: Cutter knives make it easy to open cardboard boxes without damaging the contents.
Cutting Packaging Tape: They swiftly cut through packaging tape, making the unboxing process quick and efficient.
Trimming Bubble Wrap and Foam: Cutter knives help in precisely cutting protective materials used in packaging.
2. Crafts and Hobbies
Cutter knives are a favorite among artists and hobbyists for their precision and control. They are used for:
Cutting Paper and Cardstock: Ideal for scrapbooking, card making, and other paper crafts.
Model Making: Useful for cutting and shaping materials like plastic, foam board, and balsa wood.
Leather Crafting: Cutter knives provide clean cuts in leather, essential for making belts, wallets, and other leather goods.
3. Construction and Renovation
In the construction industry, cutter knives are essential tools for various tasks, including:
Cutting Drywall and Insulation: They are used to make precise cuts in drywall sheets and insulation materials.
Carpeting and Flooring: Cutter knives help in cutting carpet, vinyl, and linoleum for installation.
Trimming Materials: They are used for trimming excess materials, such as shingles and wallpaper.
4. Gardening and Landscaping
Cutter knives play a significant role in gardening and landscaping by:
Cutting Plant Ties: They help in cutting plant ties, ropes, and strings used for supporting plants.
Trimming Garden Mats: Cutter knives are used to trim landscape fabric and garden mats to fit specific areas.
Pruning Plants: They can be used for light pruning and trimming of small branches and leaves.
5. Automotive and Mechanical Work
Mechanics and automotive enthusiasts rely on cutter knives for:
Cutting Hoses and Belts: They are used to cut rubber hoses, belts, and gaskets to the required lengths.
Stripping Wires: Cutter knives assist in stripping insulation from wires for electrical work.
Removing Adhesives: They help in scraping off old adhesives and sealants from surfaces.
6. Home Improvement and DIY Projects
For homeowners and DIY enthusiasts, cutter knives are essential for:
Wallpapering: They are used to trim wallpaper edges for a neat finish.
Cutting Foam and Insulation: Cutter knives make it easy to cut foam boards and insulation materials for various projects.
Opening Paint Cans: They can be used to cut through the seal of paint cans.
7. Office and School Use
In office and school settings, cutter knives are practical for:
Opening Mail and Packages: They are perfect for quickly and safely opening envelopes and packages.
Craft Projects: Students and teachers use cutter knives for cutting paper, cardboard, and other materials for projects.
Cutting Binding and Covers: Cutter knives help in trimming binding materials and covers for reports and presentations.
Safety Considerations
While cutter knives are versatile and useful, safety should always be a priority. Here are some safety tips:
Use a Sharp Blade: A dull blade requires more force and increases the risk of slipping.
Cut Away from Your Body: Always cut away from your body to avoid accidental injuries.
Use a Cutting Surface: Use a cutting mat or board to protect surfaces and prevent blade damage.
Store Safely: When not in use, retract the blade or use a protective sheath to prevent accidental cuts.
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multifitblades · 1 year
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Oscillating Tool Blades & Accessories by Multi Fit Blades
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Get your hands on professional-grade blades at the best cost!
Multi Fit Blades offers quality cutting blades crafted from the finest materials. From metal to wood, our blades will help you get any job done quickly and with superior accuracy. Benefit from superior durability, performance, and affordability — get your hands on top-grade blades without breaking the bank!
Get your next set of cutting blades from Multi Fit Blades at unbeatable prices for unbeatable results. Don’t compromise on quality, get the performance you need with our selection of quality blades.
Start saving money on top-grade blades today — check out Multi Fit Blades today!
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ultrastones · 5 months
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How to Maintain Marble Countertops?
Marble countertops are elegant and luxurious, making them a popular choice for kitchens and baths. Marble, on the other hand, is a natural stone that must be treated with care to retain its beauty and longevity. With the proper care plan, you can ensure that your marble countertops look great for years.
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Here are some important recommendations for keeping marble surfaces.
Regular Cleaning:
Begin by cleaning off your marble countertops every day with a soft cloth or sponge and a moderate, pH-neutral cleanser. Avoid harsh or acidic cleansers, since these can etch or harm the marble surface over time. To remove surface debris or spills, simply use warm water and mild soap.
Avoid Acidic Substances:
Marble is susceptible to acidic chemicals like vinegar, citrus drinks, and wine. These acidic solutions can etch and dull marble surfaces. If spills occur, wipe them quickly with a soft towel and rinse with water to avoid damage.
Use Cutting Boards:
Always chop or slice food on cutting boards or mats to avoid scratching or ruining the marble surface. Avoid cutting directly on the marble countertop since sharp blades might leave lasting damage.
Protect from Heat:
While marble is heat resistant, it is preferable to put trivets or hot pads beneath hot pots, pans, or cooking appliances to avoid potential damage. Direct contact with heat can create thermal shock, resulting in cracks or discoloration in the marble.
Timely Sealing: Marble, unlike quartz countertops, is a porous stone that will absorb liquids if not properly sealed. To protect your marble countertops from stains and moisture intrusion, seal the surface on a timely basis. Use a high-quality marble sealant every six to twelve months, or as directed by the manufacturer.
Handle with Care: Marble is a somewhat soft stone compared to granite or quartz, thus it must be handled cautiously. Avoid dropping large objects on the countertop, which might result in chips or cracks. Be careful while moving appliances or furniture to avoid scratching or ruining the marble.
Routine Maintenance: In addition to everyday cleaning, polish your marble countertops regularly to keep them shiny and lustrous. To remove any dull spots or watermarks, lightly buff with a marble-specific polish or a mixture of baking soda and water.
Professional Restoration: If your marble countertops get excessively soiled, scratched, or damaged over time, consider having a professional stone restoration specialist repair and refinish the surface. They can carefully clean, polish, and seal your marble countertops to restore their natural luster.
Following these maintenance guidelines and best practices will allow you to enjoy the timeless beauty of marble countertops in your house for many years to come. With regular care and attention, your marble surfaces will remain a gorgeous focus point in any kitchen or bathroom. Source link
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olumpus · 7 months
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How to Install HPL Cladding for Maximum Durability
High-Pressure Laminate (HPL) cladding is a popular choice for exterior and interior wall cladding due to its durability, aesthetic appeal, and low maintenance requirements. Proper installation is crucial to ensure the maximum durability and longevity of HPL cladding. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to install HPL cladding effectively:
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Prepare the Surface:
Ensure that the surface where the HPL panels will be installed is clean, smooth, dry, and free from dust, dirt, grease, and other contaminants.
Repair any cracks, uneven surfaces, or structural issues in the substrate before proceeding with the installation.
Measure and Cut the Panels:
Measure the dimensions of the area where the HPL panels will be installed, accounting for overlaps, corners, and edges.
Use a circular saw or a jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade to cut the HPL panels to the required size and shape, following the manufacturer's guidelines for cutting HPL.
Apply Adhesive:
Apply a high-quality adhesive recommended by the HPL manufacturer evenly on the backside of the HPL panels using a trowel or roller.
Ensure that the adhesive covers the entire surface area of the panel, especially the edges and corners, to achieve a strong bond with the substrate.
Position and Install the Panels:
Carefully position the HPL panels onto the prepared surface, starting from one corner or edge and working systematically across the area.
Use spacers or temporary supports to maintain consistent gaps and alignments between panels for a uniform appearance.
Press firmly on the panels to ensure proper adhesion and remove any air bubbles or excess adhesive using a rubber mallet or roller.
Secure the Panels:
Once the panels are in place, secure them further by using mechanical fixings such as screws or rivets at regular intervals along the edges and corners.
Ensure that the fixings penetrate both the HPL panel and the substrate adequately to provide strong support and prevent panel movement or detachment.
Finish the Edges:
Use edge trims, profiles, or corner pieces specifically designed for HPL cladding to finish the exposed edges and corners neatly and protect them from moisture and damage.
Secure the edge trims or profiles using appropriate adhesives or mechanical fixings as per the manufacturer's instructions.
Seal Joints and Gaps:
Seal any joints, gaps, or seams between HPL panels using a high-quality silicone sealant recommended for exterior applications.
Apply the sealant along the edges, corners, and intersections to prevent water ingress, moisture buildup, and air leakage.
Inspect and Maintain:
After installation, inspect the HPL cladding carefully for any defects, damages, or areas that require touch-ups.
Regularly clean the HPL panels using mild detergent and water, and avoid abrasive cleaners or harsh chemicals that may damage the surface finish.
By following these steps and adhering to the manufacturer's guidelines and best practices, you can install HPL cladding effectively to achieve maximum durability, weather resistance, and aesthetic appeal for your building's exterior or interior walls.
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helloemergencyservices · 11 months
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Removing and replacing the shower valve
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A defective shower valve can be removed and replaced in a short time and with only a few tools. The shower valve controls the flow and temperature of the water that flows through the shower head. You can recognise a problem with the shower valve if the shower head leaks and drips, but the bath spout does not. The knob may also tighten and be difficult to turn.
Turn off the water supply
Turn off the water supply in the bathroom only or throughout the house, as needed.
Remove the shower/tub control fitting
Slide the blade of the slotted screwdriver under the edge of the plastic base for the control knob. Turn the shower/tub control knob clockwise to remove it. Loosen the large metal cover plate for the tap by loosening the screws with the Phillips screwdriver. Use the needle-nose pliers to pull the retaining clip off the front of the valve body.
Remove the shower valve cartridge
Screw the control knob back into the housing and pull it straight out of the wall to pull out the shower valve cartridge.
Replace the shower valve cartridge
Unscrew the control knob from the housing and pull out the shower valve cartridge. Fit the new shower valve cartridge and reinsert the cartridge and control knob housing into the wall.
Refit the shower/tub fitting
Clean the tiles and the back of the cover plate from accumulated limescale. Line the cover plate with the new liner. Make a new liner from self-adhesive sealing tape by measuring the depth of the cover plate edge and cutting the strip to the correct width and length.
Remove the back coating and press the sealing tape onto the back of the cover plate. Allow the strip to seal briefly and then reattach the cover plate to the control valve body. Refit the control knob and the base.
Test the new shower valve
Restore the water supply to the bathroom and turn on the tap to check if it is leaking.
Seal the cover plate of the tap
To minimise damage to the tiles from future leaks, place a thin strip of silicone sealant around the tap cover plate.
Call the Emergency Plumber in Leeds. We are your right contact partner. Furthermore, we are 24 hours available. Call us now, 01134900384.
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ardentguilt · 1 year
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That post reminded me to share this.
Reptile first aid kit for my two rescue bearded dragons. If you own reptiles like I reccomend putting together something like this so you have something to use if you should end up needing to do some quick basic first aid.
Always better to have a kit like this and not need it than to need it and not have it.
— fabric bandaids. I can cut these to size as needed to cover a wound where required.
— spray plaster. Good sealant for injuries like punctures that will wear off on its own over time. I’ve used this with success on wild garden skinks and eastern water skinks I’ve found with puncture wounds in my back garden.
— betadine spray. To disinfect injuries. I apply this with a q-tip or cotton bud.
— containers. I use the bottle cap for diluting betadine with water when required and the larger metal one I use for holding fresh water or saline.
— leukoplast tape. A water proof tape that can be cut or torn to size. I use this to add some waterproofing to dressings and help secure them to places like tailtips, limbs or toes.
— non stick dressing pads. I can cut to size to cover an injury and add some padding where a non stick characteristic is required.
— gauze pads. Again I can cut these to size as needed to add some more absorbent padding to a dressing.
— straight bladed manicure scissors. For cutting dressings to size.
— saline. For cleaning and rinsing out injuries.
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azucenawtel · 1 year
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Why Need To You Think About Foam Roofing Repair
Foam roof covering repair work becomes a necessity when there is damage triggered to the foam when things driven by the wind autumn onto the surface. These items can trigger cracks and pits in the top layer. What are foam roofing systems? These are smooth roofing systems made from polyol as well as isocyanate in a combination.
The polyurethane is sprayed on the roofing from the combination. If you intend to keep the stability of the roof as well as prevent penetration of water into the foam, it is required that splashed polyurethane foam is fixed. Regular checking and also regular maintenance will assist in very early detection of damage and also you would certainly likewise have the ability to conserve cash on the more comprehensive fixings. The repairs can be done successfully by using polyurethane caulking sealant and disposable spray foam sets.
The roof troubles that you encounter will certainly enhance if you carry out meaningless improvements. If guarantee has actually been supplied with spray roof, it would be best to leave the renovations to the specialist suppliers who would certainly remodel the roofing perfectly. You can do the fixings by yourself by making use of the repair tools properly when it comes to dilemma where you do not wish to squander whenever.
The only suggestions that you require to find out about foam roofing repair work
The areas that need repair service needs to be free from all particles and any items or walls that would be coated in the overspray requirement to be taped off. Scrub with a blend of 1 part chlorine bleach to 1 part water to kill any kind of moss or mold. Let the areas that need foam roof covering repair work completely dry after washing it with clear water. Use a 80 grit sandpaper to roughen up areas like flashing before the roof repair service item can be splashed on them, Отидете на този сайт and also this process will certainly make them receptive to sealer.
Till you come down to dry foam you will require to remove as well as throw out all damp and also damaged locations of the foam roofing. Before continuing with the foam roof covering repair you must guarantee that the roof covering is entirely dry. For a smooth union of the old foam and the new repair you can make use of a grinding wheel, saw or razor blade to bevel the cut side at a 45-degree angle away from the damaged or wet location.
Foam roofing repair facilitated
Once the old foam is gotten rid of the harmed underlying deck will come to be visible and you must proper repairs and also patches to it. Prior to using brand-new foam, you have to make sure that the fixings are clean.
By adhering to the direction you ought to re-foam the area with a high-density foam repair service kit (2.5 to 4 lb. density). Apply foam after placing on some non reusable handwear covers and also affixing the hose to foam container and also the applicator. The applicator will alter depending on the package. The shutoff can be switched on hereafter. As the foam will certainly dry promptly in just a few mins you will need to function rapidly. The excess foam can be rubbed out with cloths.
Load to the degree of the foam roofing system surface area by spraying the non reusable polyurethane foam right into the repair. Enable the foam roofing system fixing to cure for a minimum of 15 minutes. Utilize a roofing blade to trim any kind of overspill of foam to the major foam roof covering surface area. This will complete the procedure of foam roofing repair.
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james0123 · 1 year
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Pool coping stone maintenance: tips and tricks
Pool coping stones are normally produced using regular stone materials, for example, travertine, limestone, or rock. They can be cut into various shapes and sizes to fit any pool plan, and can be done with different surfaces to give a non-slip surface to swimmers. While picking pool coping stones, it is critical to consider factors like tone, surface, and sturdiness. Lighter shaded stones, for example, travertine or limestone can assist with keeping the pool deck cool in blistering climate, while hazier stones, for example, rock or basalt can give an emotional difference against the water. It is additionally critical to appropriately keep up with pool coping stones by routinely cleaning and fixing them to forestall staining and harm. An expert installer can give direction on the best materials and establishment strategies for your particular pool plan. Pool coping stone is a significant piece of any pool, as it gives a utilitarian and tasteful completion to the pool's edges. Keeping up with your pool coping stone is fundamental to guarantee its life span and to forestall harm that could think twice about pool's trustworthiness. Here are a few hints and deceives for pool coping stone support: Normal cleaning: Consistently cleaning your pool coping stone is fundamental to forestall the development of soil, grime, and other trash that can cause staining and staining. Utilize a delicate seethed brush and a gentle cleanser to tenderly scour the outer layer of the stone, and wash completely with clean water. Fixing: Pool coping stone is permeable and can assimilate water, which can make it decay over the long run. Applying a sealant to the outer layer of the stone can assist with forestalling water harm and drag out its life expectancy. Make certain to pick a sealant that is explicitly intended for use on regular stone, and adhere to the producer's directions for application. Fixing breaks: Over the long haul, pool coping stone can foster breaks because of openness to climate and other natural variables. On the off chance that you notice any breaks in your adapting stone, it's vital to address them immediately to forestall further harm. Utilize a stone filler or epoxy to fill in the breaks, and smooth the surface with a clay blade. Keeping away from cruel synthetics: Unforgiving synthetic substances, for example, chlorine and corrosive can make harm pool coping stone, so trying not to utilize them close to the stone is significant. In the event that you want to involve these synthetics in your pool, make certain to wash the coping stone completely to clean water a while later. Customary examinations: Consistently assessing your pool coping stone for indications of harm or wear can assist you with resolving any issues before they become serious issues. Search for indications of breaking, chipping, or staining, and address any issues instantly. In outline, keeping up with your pool coping stone is fundamental to guarantee its life span and to forestall harm that could think twice about pool's honesty. Customary cleaning, fixing, fixing breaks, staying away from brutal synthetics, and standard investigations are extremely significant parts of pool coping stone support. By following these tips and deceives, you can assist with guaranteeing that your pool coping stone stays in top condition for quite a long time into the future.
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